Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement chassis products

For what it's worth I have a '15 Ram 1500 that I have been using since new as my primary off-pavement exploration tool - it's a stout enough platform with minor improvements.

Here is what I would suggest:

• A small lift is in order, if nothing else just to get that front bumper up off the ground a little. I chose to go with the Mopar lift because it's a well thought out, well executed example of lagom design. It's not a lot of parts but it's all top notch quality and it improves suspension travel without binding, and without negatively affecting towing stability for a truck that still has to get up and go to work being a truck.
  
  
• If you don't have them already, I strongly suggest the factory skid plates. There is one for the power steering, one for the front differential and one for the transfer case. The actual metal stamping for the transfer case is the same as the front differential one but they come in different kits based on what hardware is included, some of that hardware is "nutserts" (a threaded nut which affixes into a hole in the chassis like a rivet) so you'll also need an inexpensive Nutsert tool to install them. The transfer case skid plate also includes a crossmember to support its rear edge. These all bolt into existing holes in the chassis, just some of them use nutserts and others thread straight into the stamped hole. I believe I paid less than $200 for all three kits with all the nutserts and a $9 nutsert tool . I make a point of not trying to beat up my undercarriage if I can avoid it, but the added peace of mind from the skid plates is nice and they only have to do their job one time to be worth the price.
  
  
• Yes, tires. There's a lot of thought you can put into tires as there are so many choices available and people buy tires for a lot of reasons, a lot of different terrain, etc. A lot of times people buy tires for the cosmetics because they have a picture in their mind of what tire-to-truck ratio looks right. I tried to put cosmetics out of my mind entirely when tire shopping and strictly consider what the real implications would be in capability, availability, cost, fuel efficiency, driver fatigue, chassis parts longevity.. I ended up with ~33x10" tires (255/80R17) and now almost 20k miles later with a lot of varied terrain and weather, a 5000 mile road trip, close to capacity towing I consider that to have been a good move. This size also fits easily in the stock spare location, a 35" tire wouldn't. A few guys have told me they think I need bigger tires (that cosmetics thing again..) but they're entitled to their opinion.
  
  
• Tow hooks if your trim level doesn't already have them. The Mopar tow hooks for 1500's are pretty stout, I believe I paid about $90 for them.. that's kind of a lot for two hooks but they're beefy castings that tie into the frame very well and are engineered to not interfere with the vehicle's impact absorbing frame for collision safety. Depending on what bumper your trim package includes you may or may not want to get the revised covers that fit around the tow hooks.

'99 Intrigue and '00 Century here.

Second gen W-body was a better car than the first gen. Very easy architecture to mess around with.

This is a VERY GOOD car for messing around with. Parts are very cheap and interchange with a huge variety of GM vehicles. You can get performance-grade parts out of the junkyard and build a very good handling car with a smooth ride for next to nothing.

Those factory trailing arms are some shit though. Replace them with the Dorman tubular ones, they are much better than stock and come with bushings.

If your brackets are rusted as in OP's photo, $14 fixes that

If you wanna talk W-body suspension:

The front control arm bushings are a shitty rubber design too and usually fail within 150k miles. Replace with Moog ball-and-socket design, part # K200787 ($23 on RockAuto). Rust is not horrible in my area so I re-used the original control arms, gave them a good coat of anti-rust paint though. Even if you just get new control arms (if you do, buy control arms with greaseable ball joints), I suggest pressing out the supplied bushings and replacing with the Moog part. Noticeable improvement in ride.

Hollow factory front sway bar on W-bodies tends to rust, and the crimped ends tend to crack. Replace with Dorman 927100 solid sway bar. DO NOT use the bushings and links that come with the sway bar, they are garbage and will start squeaking within 15,000 miles. Use Moog K700527 links (with polyurethane bushings and barrel nuts) and Moog K80815 sway bar bushings (polyurethane), lube with silicone grease before install.

Your car will ride like new after this (assuming the struts are in good shape). I know it sounds like a lot but we are talking around $200 for like-new ride, maybe $300 if you want brand new control arms.

The outer tie rod ends are also a weak point. Again, Moog makes a noticeably better one than the competitors.

If/when your old struts are shot (hint, if you're over 100k miles, they probably are), buy the ones spec'd for the Intrigue. Better handling, same cost. Get springs out of an Intrigue (front Intrigue springs were also used on Aurora, LeSabre, and Bonneville, rear Intrigue springs were also used on v8 Impala, v8 Grand Prix, and v8 Monte Carlo) in the junkyard. While you're in the junkyard, get a strut tower bar out of a Regal or Monte Carlo (some police Impalas might have them too?)

When the time comes for brakes, there are also "junkyard upgrades" available -- some work with 16" wheels, some require 17" wheels.

I don't know everything about cars, but I know a lot about W-body suspensions!

I love the GM w-body. It's a cheap platform, reliable, and easy to work on. Of course, I live south of the Mason-Dixon, so I don't have the rust issues they do up north.

That looks like a good kit, but if you want to save some money and retain your stock shocks, you could use this one. It has the shock extenders so your shocks won't be damaged. As for the UCA, you don't necessarily need a HD one, but you will need one that was designed for lift geometry. Cognito makes the best of the best, but they're over $500 a set. But Moog makes an inexpensive control arm that will work - CK620053 (Double check that that model will fit on your truck, that's the part number for mine but my truck is a 2500).

Did the exact same setup, except got 2.5inch spacers for the front because of coil sag (did not fix it at all) and 2 in for the rear. Same shocks, (7044 for rear and 7016 for front). Took 4 hours and was well worth it. Rides great.

Spacers used: 1999- 2004 Grand Cherokee Lift Kit FULL WJ 2.5" Front Lift 2" Rear Lift BIG BRAWNS Spring Spacers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X8JQ78O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WKzOwb9M93B9W

31.5 in tires fit perfectly, could probably go a bit high. There's plenty of space.

Its the Supreme Suspensions 2.5" level.

Pretty easy install, just make sure you unbolt and hang the caliper otherwise you spend more time fighting it than it's worth. As long as you have the right tools it's pretty quick too. Passenger side took 30 minutes.

Also make sure you have a good crowbar. Getting that strut lower bolt holes lined up is a PITA if you don't. I couldn't be happier though. Looks great and deff gets that front up where it needs to be.

Haven't tried that one but the one I got was 3' and I love it.

Supreme Suspensions - Ram Lift Kit 3" Front Suspension Lift CNC Machined T6 Aircraft Billet + 2" Rear Suspension Lift CNC Machined T6 Aircraft Billet Dodge Ram 1500 Leveling Kit 4WD 4x4 (Black) PRO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZ4MDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wdfqzb44QTN2H

This is a 1 inch budget leveling kit that made my Runner sit almost 2 inches higher in the front. It's subtle, but it looks much better now and more surprisingly handles better too. Only $41 from Amazon and my local shop charged me $175 to install including a re-alignment.

Before and After

Daystar KT09117BK on Amazon

No, but neither do the other kits.

If you want a full on lift kit, they cost a considerable amount more.
Front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1310-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJKBGC
Shocks: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-SK010645RXT-Twintube-Shock/dp/B006GJJUYG
Rear springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1462-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKG1W
OR rear shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Shackles/dp/B00X8JPJCE
Rear SYE Driveshaft: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-5076-1-Drive-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AEV4S
SYE: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Heavy-Duty-Slip-Eliminator/dp/B007I5B6PS
Extended front brake lines: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF5LQ
Extended rear line: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF61ArefRID
Front Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU
Leafspring shims: http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800062-2-5-Degree/dp/B004NOTHSK
And of course, the long arm kit you pick.

That list comes to 2k, and has everything you need.

a full pre-assembled long arm kit will cost you about 2k(see here: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/search-shop?field_product_vehicle_tid[]=12&field_product_categories_tid[]=66). Kits usually dont include everything you need, either... Buying parts you need separately will save you cash, and you can opt for a more expensive, or less expensive part. Be prepared to turn a wrench... the more turns you put in, the more cash you save(in most situations).

What you're asking is "I want a lift, but don't know what to ask about". The above is ALL the shit you need to get 4.5" out of your jeep without being a huge cheapass and doing it wrong. It's expensive to lift a jeep, and people seem to think that doing things like using blocks, pucks and a transfercase drop is the right way. Sure, you may only spend $100 to get 2.5 inches, but you'll see extreme vibration, issues with steering and tracking, pinion oiling, etc.

Save your cash and do it right the first time.

Maybe instead of the spring spacer (which requires a spring compressor and unbolting the strut top hat), maybe consider some of these. Looks like they go on top of the strut between the strut top hat and the frame. Means you don’t have to take the strut apart and that’s a major deal.

So use these and some wheel spacers. Get some cheap tires online. I put some 27x8.5 rock crawlers in a set of alloy 14” rims.

Front strut spacers 40mm for Nissan AD/AD EXPERT, BLUEBIRD SYLPHY, CUBE, DUALIS, JUKE, GRAND LIVINA, LAFESTA, LEAF, MARCH, MICRA, NOTE, QASHQAI, ROGUE, SERENA, TIIDA, VERSA, WINGROAD, X-TRAIL Lift Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BYCJN44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f0kpDbSXJ61ZS

If you're wanting to keep the same height you have now, just find out how large that block is (2, 3'' or whatever) and get that size leaf pack. You can even do a 2'' BB if you want to keep it simple, although in addition to a kit like this I'd recommend new stock leafs.. Just since yours look pretty beat. Up to you. Feel free to message me if you have any questions about lifting/suspension.

Couple of ideas for you.

1. Convert your AC compressor to an air compressor
   
   
2. Upgrade your suspension (as /u/aussie_jason suggested) to the upcountry option.
   This is a stock spring package that directly replaces your worn out springs and gives you around 1.5 inches of lift for less than $250. I did this to my 94 XJ and i can tell you that'll help make some room for for those 30s. It's also easily boosted to a 3 to3.5 inch lift for around $90 more.
   
   
   Front coils
   
   Rear leaves
   
   
   Edit: Look into getting longer bump stops as they'll help keep your tires out of the fenders. Here are the ones I picked up.
   Front
   Rear

which brand did you use? I've been looking at these but is this all i need to level out the front?


http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1305-10.html


Or what is the difference from these? I would like a 2.5" leveling kit, but I would like to know the price difference between the two sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I5056M4/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E31K6GQBWYHPVMFZANNW

edit: first link was for a 2" level. found the correct link for a 2.5" level

Shop around but these should give you an idea. I would look for a name brand.

http://www.amazon.com/Wrangler-Budget-Boost-Spacers-97-06/dp/B006IVQJTQ

For the spacers you need to go steel and not aluminium.

https://www.motorsport-tech.com/specialss/truck/jeep_s

You can do both in an afternoon. You will need a torque wrench and a spring compressor. Other than that standard tools to take off a tire.

Hope that helps.

I've got some pics

Factory 265/60-18 w/Daystar 2.5"/1.5 spacer lift

Same lift above with 265/65-18 AT3s

5100s, OME 885/895 springs, Camburg style UCAs, 1.5" wheel spacers

Last pic is a total lift of over 5" with well over $1000 invested. I'll be jumping up to 275/65-18s once these tires wear down.

The Daystar spacer lift was less than $125 on Amazon and can be installed by anyone with simple tools and jacks. In fact, I've still got my Daystar spacer lift kit boxed up in my shop - I could sell it to you on a DEEP discount. The spacer lift served me VERY well for a few thousand miles until I upgraded.

My advice- get the spacer lift and drive the snot out of it. Its an extremely capable 4wd, if you understand how the ATRAC system works.

ETA: my MPG with the spacer lift was not affected- 19 city/24 highway/21 average. After adding the slightly larger tires, winch, winch mounting plate, all suspension mods, K&N filter, HCF delete, I'm still 15 city/22-24 highway/18 average.

I actually have the zone 3" lift and I love it. But I have an 06 LJ, and a much longer rear drive shaft which means I didn't need a SYE. A regular TJ absolutely needs it and would require hundreds of dollars more upgrades. I wouldn't have gone 3" if I had a TJ since I didn't have the money to upgrade the driveshaft

I had the fat bobs coil spacers installed on my ZJ (which fits all TJ/XJ/ZJ) and it was good quality and fit great. I didn't get longer shocks and eventually flexed mine out and ruined it so I'd recommend getting 2" longer shocks. These are the ones I would choose because you ride quality is dictated directly by your shocks. And with the parts I listed you're under $500

These

Thanks, I'm really happy with how it turned out.

I recently did exactly that (3 inch lift, 31s). If you're looking for ideas or reference, here is "Jade". (Mall parking lot of course. Havent taken her out since I did it)

I did it relatively cheap as far as lifts/tires/rims go. List goes as follows:

BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 LT31X10.5R15 - $175 x 4 = $700

Pro Comp Steel Wheels 15x8"/5x4.5" $55 x 4 = $220

3 in Rough Country lift $293

Hubcentric Wheel Spacers $27.50 x4 = $110

They installed my lift at Mavis for $390 labor. It was a pretty fair deal.

All in all ~$1700.


I'm about to get a pair of Smittybilt bumpers this week.

Warning. Your fenders will rub. I'm cutting and putting flares on because I need them anyway for legal reasons.

Double check to see if that first set includes both the add-a-leafs and spacers.

This is pretty solid if you want a step up from a budget boost though it's more like $300 shipped. Rough country suspensions are a bit stiff, but I run the Series II setup with these shocks and coils and I like it a lot. I don't have a ton of experience with their add-a-leafs though.

There's also some budget boosts with shocks but I have no idea about fitment or quality.

Budget Boost suspension lift spacers (I have them on my Jeep).

Look for Budget Boost kits similar to this: Amazon Link

Daystar, Toyota 4Runner 2.5" Lift Kit, fits 2003 to 2009 2/4WD, all transmissions, all cabs KT09115BK, Made in America, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GH1PDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IcAwDb7N087JK