Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement engine adiators

I'm a Subaru EJ-Engine geek. I'm sorry to hear about your symptoms showing up.

If you need to save money, it's a really easy job, and the TYC rad's are cheap enough.

https://smile.amazon.com/TYC-2674-Forester-Aluminum-Replacement/dp/B000IYSI0M/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Forester%7C57&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

Use the "Will This Fit" thing, but I bought one of those about a year ago, and replaced the cap with an OEM Radiator Cap. Price is fair enough.

I did the job in about 2 hours on my '07 Forester (basically the same car as yours), in the rain, first time with that car. It was pretty easy. The upper and lower hose, and the two transmission cooler lines. Have the largest Vice-Grips you can find (10" +) and a pair of smaller (?6"?) for the Trans-cooler lines (or just any pliers) a clean drain pan if you're going to re-use the coolant. Remove the 2 10mm bolts on the overflow tank, get it out of the way. Mine as well wash it out while you've got it out. 2-3 bolts to remove the fan(s) assembly. There are two mounting brackets which you'll see on the top of the radiator support, where the front grill is. The radiator just drops in onto dowels/locator-pins, and then the brackets bolt it on the top.

If you're really strapped for cash right now you'll be able to get by. Just keep a good eye on your coolant over flow when cold. Don't press your luck though... Pretty much the main reason for blowing gaskets, as I mentioned before.


I hope this helps.

I agree it looks promising and the price is OKish although the remaining visible damage from the (literal!) fender bender wouldn't be cheap to fix. Rust is always the #1 concern to watch for. Seller claims none but you should confirm this yourself, especially considering your location. Look for damage behind the fender and under the hood. I'd watch for bent suspension components.

On the plus side black NA paint is single stage and oh-so-restoration friendly. Seller is correct with statements about the "Black and Tan" 1992 Miata. BBS center caps are missing, and somewhat hard/costly to obtain if you want them. Glass rear window indicates a replaced top, probably a good thing. Bonus if it includes the original boot cover because the tan ones are going up in price on eBay. I got one for $100 in June but they were all $130+ last I checked.

Ultimately this resource is the gold standard for Miata inspection: http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html

Bring tools. Be careful if you pull and inspect spark plugs; do not tighten more than 11-17 ft-lbs (132-204 in-lbs). Not noted in that guide is the radiator color. Black is OK. Olive is showing age. Brown is time to replace ASAP. Miata engines do not like to overheat, so a well-sorted cooling system is critical. But replacement TYC on Amazon is affordable and easy direct swap.

Good luck! Post back with an update if you look at it or buy it.

Cheapest best: Spectra CU1193 (Autozone A1193)

Best: Mopar 52080104AC

Do not listen to ebay 3-row all-aluminum marketing wank. The Mopar is the best design.

I actually just saw this one today. Since your in oregon I would say the one plus is that he replaced the top. Another is the reasonably low miles. As for the negatives as stated before the radiator will need to be replaced very soon as it is very brown. You can get this one as it a OEM replacement but for very cheap. It is koyo brand so it is a reputable brand and you get it for 90.00 shipped. While doing that I would suggest doing the main coolant hoses as well which will be around another 100.00. I would suggest taking the stock rims and using that money towards a good set of wheels that arent 17s. With that you would be at 3000 with around 200.00 of parts to replace right away so I would ask 2700 once you take the car for a spin and go up from there because you can negotiate knowing there are things needing to replaced already. Unless there are any other noticeable things that you see wrong with it once you take a test drive 2700-2800 would be a fair price in my eyes. Also be sure he has replaced the timing belt and water pump as this is the mileage where it should have been done pretty recently.

Would recommend doing a refresh on the coolant system. Give it a nice flush and fresh coolant first. Divert mud and debris from blocking up your rad. I've toasted a few before I started running skid plates. If that doesn't help, mishimoto sells a nice ally rad for your car. It's a bit spendy, and some people complain about the build quality.
https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMRAD-TINY-01-Performance-Aluminum-2002-2008/dp/B004UVKH44

Stay away from ECS tuning if you can help it, great products but unnecessarily expensive for a reseller.

Another pro tip is to wire up your fans to a switch too. If you don't have AC, put the AC fan on a toggle to keep that airflow moving through the radiator

It looks like that one isn't right for the truck but it got me searching and it looks like this one is right.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7VZGY/

And it is a good thing too, the local Autozone didn't check to ensure the one they had actually had the oil cooler on it, and it doesn't.

Any idea what the difference between that and this other TYC radiator is? They've got different part numbers and about $20 difference, but comments seem to indicate they both fit the same cars (they're almost all for NB, but one guy says it fit in a 1996 M - are the radiators interchangeable or not?).

When they get brown and get kind of a spider webby look to them, they plastic is decaying and becoming brittle. It will crack any time, probably while you're out on a long drive and get the car really warmed up.

New OEM Koyo (Koyo made the factory radiator and are also a good aftermarket manufacturer) are only about $100 currently $75 from Amazon. Super simple DIY repair.

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427331153&sr=8-1&keywords=koyo+miata+radiator

It says TYC but many many Miata owners have ordered that one and it comes in a Koyo box, has Koyo marking on the part, and is exactly like the OEM radiator in every way... except not brown...

Depending on what size you want I'd recommend either getting a car radiator or a car heater core (which is the same idea but much smaller). They're designed for exactly what you want and can be bought either very cheap at a junkyard or pretty cheap new ($100 will get you a brand new car radiator, for example here).

Currently $60 but you can wait for a warehouse deal if you are super price sensitive. I double checked my order got mine for $45 including taxes it was "used - very good".

I just replaced mine this fall with this one of amazon and it's worked great so far. Fit right in no hassles at all. Engine temp stays a solid 5-10 degrees cooler now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have amazon prime you can grab a new radiator for pretty cheap.

can you recommend this radiator? https://www.amazon.com/GPLUS-Aluminum-Radiator-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE/dp/B07CSQZ78X/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

also, what kind of temperature drop can i expect from switching to an aluminum radiator? or a properly installed E fan for that matter lol

Stock replacement recommended by others on this sub:

https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/

Almost all the well known Miata performance places offer upgrades. The very short answer is if you're car isn't overheating then the one above is fine.

yah, I got this one in my basket, cuz Amazon says it fits my NA.

I got hoses in there too. I'll go ahead and add a cap. Thx again Internet Miata Bro.

Don’t cheap out on the radiator. Spring for the factory replacement (I think they’re Denso IIRC), they’re $142 shipped on Amazon, Prime eligible. Not really that expensive in the pantheon of factory parts given its importance

Edit: this is what I bought about a month ago:

Genuine Toyota Parts 16410-YZZAJ Radiator for Toyota 4Runner

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPQPC?cache=4c29131d98b0cef7c9aae9d1357a4a81&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412786867&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 This one is a koyo. Make sure you get it from Amazon though.

Get a Ford Taurus fan. It used to be the rage back in like 2004-2006 and I don't know why it sort of died out. Maybe the rise of cheapie fan setups on eBay or something. The 1990 to 1995 Taurus fan is a 2 speed.

Here is one installed on a ZJ:
http://www.jeephorizons.com/tech/fan/

Another ZJ with some wiring:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/ford-taurus-two-speed-e-fan-install-pics-233676/

Here is one that's XJ specific:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/97-xj-taurus-fan-swap-installation-how-897944/

If money wasn't an object, I'd spend a thousand dollars on this:
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-67108-Radiator-Cherokee/dp/B00AQWBGQE I'm sane, so I won't spend that kind of money on my cooling system. Is it the best? Maybe. But I'm not about to spend a thousand dollars to find out.

Hmm. Amazon is telling me those won't fit my car. Which model did you get?

This: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-2&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

or this?: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-1&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

Amazon says these are built for the automatic gearbox models.

Lol supercharged 4.0 with stock Cherokee radiator

Well for starters, you should try to ask questions without insulting the sub. Secondly, it's a fairly common issue with aftermarket covers. Here is a link to an OEM cover for ~$300.

30.8 x 21.2 x 5 inches is the dimensions of the OEM radiator. Found a Mishimoto pretty easily for cheap. I think the problem with the radiator off the Miata will not be the hoses mating, it's going to be actually bolting it onto the car as I don't know how universal the mounting brackets are on radiators.

The actual size of the radiator looks like it would fit by the specs, but then again i'm not a mechanic lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-R2703-Replacement-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B00860GQZE

They pretty much had it under control in 2008. If you're still worried about it, change the stock radiator out for a new one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004J317JC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518947333&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2008+nissan+xterra+radiator&dpPl=1&dpID=412wa5QweHL&ref=plSrch

And you shouldn't have to worry about it. You can test the transmission fluid for coolant at any transmission shop. Just tell them it's the mid-2000's tranny coolant issue

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-2329-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYNTWY?tag=5336118857-20%22]TYC

would this work? and so far I haven't noticed a puddle... I don't know anything about cars to me it looks like it isn't the radiator but the frame is bent..

I don't know where you've been looking, but Autozone lists a radiator for that vehicle (B449) available for $312 online.


Additionally, Amazon shows one available for similar pricing, however temporarily out of stock. Spectra Premium CU449 Complete Radiator for Mercedes-Benz 190D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7TV06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dU7.AbM4V38A0

I was goingt o get a cheapo one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Acouto-Motorcycle-Accessories-Protector-2015-2018/dp/B07LBXNZXB/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPNC8?pc_redir=1407139270&robot_redir=1#

I know it's not all aluminum, but what do you think?

Got any links? This was the cheapest I could find.

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062

Its not too bad at all, don't forget to move over the vibration isolators to the new radiator. My Cheap radiator recommendation I used it and so does tons of others no issues no overheating at all.

http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage