Reddit mentions: The best bench vises

Trying to stick with Amazon...

General: do not get no-name generic Chinese tools. These will fail in no time.

Cheap tools are the more expensive. Partly through the damage they cause and the time they waste, and partly because you're going to throw them away and get the good ones anyway eventually.

Get some good screwdrivers. Yellow plastic handles with rubber grips. Stanley used to be good, but apparently not any more. Most screwdriver sets contain more screwdrivers than you need. Klein seems to be the brand to get now, but they're quite expensive. I'm not a fan of multi-bit drivers, but this one looks pretty good and you can't beat the price: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32477-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0002RI5EY/

This looks like a superb set, but at $60 it really eats into your budget: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-85078-Cushion-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000ABADXI/

Saws: Get the Japanese pull saws. I like my Ryoba. There's a plastic-handled version at http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ that's pretty good. The one that abnormal_human linked to is an excellent choice. I would go with that. In fact, it's going on my wish list.

Power tools: You won't regret getting a 14 or 18-volt DeWalt electric drill. There are a couple of 18-volt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Don't argue; just get one. Don't forget drill bits. I like the cobalt, but Titanium is good.

I wouldn't bother with any other power tools; the good ones cost money and the cheap ones will only bring you grief.

Do this: buy a cheap but complete set of HSS bits. As they wear out, replace them one by one with cobalt. I got mine at Costco. I didn't see any on Amazon.

Get a tape measure. I wouldn't spend $25 if money is an object. This is probably the single-most important purchase.

Get as many clamps as you can afford. Not metal C-clamps; those are for metal working. Irwin quick-grip or clone and Jorgensen or Bessey bar clamps are your best value here.

Chisels: I'm not sure you need these for a minimalist wood shop, but if you get them, get a 1/4" and 1/2" chisel. That's all you really need. abnormal_human linked to a pretty good sharpening stone. Japanese chisels are the best, but they'll bust your budget, and until you learn to sharpen them well, they'll be a waste of money. Just get a cheap Stanley or DeWalt set. Expensive chisels will come pre-honed. Cheap ones you should hone for best results. You need to learn to hone them anyway.

Don't spend $50 on tweezers. But get a good pair at your local drug store and get a pair with the longest, sharpest, pointiest working end you can find. And a magnifying glass so you can see the splinters.

Get a 12" combination square. Don't get an expensive one, but don't get a no-name tool either. Some of them have a built-in level which you will never use.

Get a large carpenter's square. They're cheap.

I wouldn't get a card scraper. They're nice, but hard to sharpen and you really need a burnisher ($22) to do it properly.

Consider buying the hardware to build a good workbench. And by that, I mean a good bench vise. A very good one can run you around $200, but this one looks pretty good for $21: http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-736-Hobby-WoodworkerS/dp/B002I2KFMG/ and $66 will get you this very decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4026-Cabinet-Makers-Vise/dp/B005W16LVE/

ETA: If you still have budget left for power tools, a random orbital sander is nice and not too expensive. I'm using a borrowed Ryobi and I have had zero issues with it. (I'm not normally a fan of Ryobi, but this one is pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRS290-5-Inch-Random/dp/B001HTPSKK/

Finally: a cheap Wixley or iGuaging digital caliper is a good investment. Within a week of buying one, I was wondering how I'd survived so long without it.

You started off with a nice set. Sparrows picks are so much nicer than those cheapo sets that most people start off with from Amazon or eBay.

The Panavise is a really great vise but a bit on the expensive side. The Bessey Vise on Amazon is the one that I use and others pick up the green vise found at Harbor Freight. All of them serve their purpose and last a fairly long time.

Sure, you can do directly to your local locksmith and hit him up for assorted goodies but it is usually best to establish some kind of relationship with them before asking for anything. They are more likely to gift something to someone who has been in and out of their store buying things from them, than someone who walks in their door ending a conversation with "gimme stuff". It is best to be casual and let them know that you are fascinated with the elegant simplicity of how locks work and the innovative ways of how they make small alterations to the design to create more secure locks. That should butter them up a bit :D

Buy some locks at retail cost from them and always try to get in there and get to know them and talk a little shop. They are more than locksmiths and everyone enjoys a little personal attention.

You can also scour eBay. Just be sure to research what it is that you want to bid on before you do, so you have a better understanding of what the retail prices are, because you don't want to pay more than what the lock is sold for at retail cost.

Lastly, we have a bot here that can give you the lowdown on what you can start off with. Lemme call it for you: stab!

This is my set up. Really, really easy. I dont have a garage full of tools and i still thought it was easy.

Disassemble this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M14RI79/ref=zg_bs_11058261_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F6E9C1ERF8C0HBFJSA98 (having some of those really small screwdrivers like you'd use to work on eye glasses makes this part cake)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZS6JU02/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1510258631&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aluminum++1%2F2+inch&dpPl=1&dpID=31FkfqMeaYL&ref=plSrch use a dremel to cut this into plates to sit on both sides of each of your hair straightener heat plates. Having the aluminum against the back of the hair straightener plate will keep you from smashing those wire leads and allow you to put more pressure.

I tried a few diff arbor presses and vises, for my small nug presses (i press a nug at a time, its just for me and rosin lasts me a really long time in my wax pen) .... the 5 inch model of this one gives me plenty of pressure and doesnt break the bank. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JSY8S0/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1510258796&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=yost%2B5%2Binch%2Bvise&dpPl=1&dpID=41QF1yC8WyL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

And thats it. At first i used jb weld to hold my plates to each other but found that metal wire (with slots cut into everything to make the wire stay in place and the plates to meet flush) was far easier. Only tool i really used was a dremel and of course my laser thermometer to constantly check accuracy of the temps. I get great results with this setup and it was super cheap. I can post pics of mine if you want. Got it zip tied to the inside of a milk crate to make it portable and stand upright on its own. It looks pretty rough but works great.

Edit. ... personal opinion here ..... but beware of builds using arbor presses, yeah they work, but for my money its easier to twist that 5 inch vise tight really hard then wait and watch the timer...... vs having to stand there with all my weight leaning on an arbor press handle for 60 seconds at a time to keep pressure on. That yost 5 inch vise gives me better returns than i got from an arbor press and it's less work.


Hope i dont get laughed too hard but here is my Frankenstein https://m.imgur.com/a/bOZ1P (note the notches made with the dremel to keep the wire from sliding around the vise when you tighten it.) Works like a champ and cheaply replaced parts.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Thanks everyone for the advice everyone, I probably would have bought them had I found them yesterday, but I decided to go the DIY route. Since picking must be a very budget conscious hobby for me, I went ahead and took the plunge and bought the important tools. I figured making my own pins would be difficult and require a lot of crazy equipment, but I looked into it and realized it was a lot easier than expected. So just for anyone who's curious, here's what I got:

• $50 Kwikset rekey/pin set from eBay. 200 of each type of pins, 8 types of pins. Clips, followers, springs, and anything else needed to reassemble locks. That leaves enough pins to make absolutely every security pin that I know of, as well as any others that I find from watching people pick challenge locks. There are a good variety of these sets, so you can save some money here by getting only 50 or 100 of each pin type if you prefer. I just decided to start off big so I hopefully never have to buy another.
  
• $35 Rotary Tool. Used for a huge variety of DIY projects, including and excluding lockpicking. There are some cheaper options, but in my opinion you're better off buying at least a decent one to start so you don't have to upgrade later.
  
• $7 Needle File Set. Used in conjunction with your rotary tool as cutting/smoothing tools
  
• $25 Base Vice. Also is very useful for holding locks while picking.
  
   
  
  So in total $112 for all the components needed to make as many locks as I can imagine, many of which can be used for other projects.
  
   
  
  To add supplies for a few other DIY projects I also added:
  
  
• $6 Rotary Tool Bit Set. Used for various DIY projects.
  
• $9 Cutting Wheels for your Rotary tool.
  
• $6 Wood Plank. I'll use this along with the dremel bit set above to make a nice pinning tray.
  
• $2 12" x 0.5" x 0.023" Stainless Steel Feeler Gauge. Used to make picks, tension rods, etc. making it $2 per 2-3 tools. If the thickness you want is expensive/in short supply on amazon you can buy directly from the manufacturer here but in my experience the shipping is slower and the price is usually a ~$0.10 higher per 12" rod. If you really get into making DIY tools you can buy stainless steel feeler coils from easterngage which are 25' x 0.5" x 0.15"/0.18"/0.23"/0.25"/0.26" or any thickness you want really. For 25', depending on the thickness it'll cost you anywhere from $50.64 to $64.95. You might need the 1" wide coils for making double sided tension tools.
  
   
  
  So another $21 brings it to $133 plus $2 per 2-3 tools that you need. Add in this $6 case and a few $4-$6 practice locks around aliexpress (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 5th, 6th, 7th), and you've got a great starter kit that sets you up to DIY anything you might need in the future. I also took advantage of Peterson's mega christmas sale (plus the 10% discount code they gave us) and got a ~$25 order of $1-$3 picks to start me off

As with anything you get what you pay for. At work I used Weller equipment and I know for a fact it's well made stuff. As a hobbyist you don't really need the high end stuff with all the bells and whistles. Something like >>THIS<<
would work just fine. Add in some >>SOLDER<< (I like the stuff with flux in it.... or you could just buy flux separate and use the regular lead solder) and a don't forget a sponge.... you can even get a nice little >>STAND AND SPONGE COMBO<<. If you find yourself soldering a lot a good table vise can be a HUGE help. Something with an articulting head like >>THIS<< is what I prefer (but that can wait until your next check).


Good luck! Have fun, and enjoy how the world of electronics is about to open up for you. :)

You really need a set of helping hands or a vise or something. Trying to hold everything in place, control an iron and control the solder is a challenge without it. In a pinch I have used my feet as a quick clamp, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Secondly, properly prepare your wire. You only need to expose about 1/8" or so of bare wire. make sure you have a nice twist on each bare cable, and if necessary, go ahead and apply solder to it so it stays together. I do t usually like to do this personally, because it makes the end too rigid and difficult to maneuver at times, but sometimes it is necessary to keep the wire and connection clean.
Also, with TRS jacks, you want to trim the shield back a little bit so that everything lines up. (If there is a ton of shield, feel free to trim a little off to make the wire a bit more manageable- you don't have to connect the whole rap to have a good connection.) Use a pair of small pliers to open the strain relief on the jack (the part you were trying to thread through) and bend the shield pin down a bit if necessary.

As far a flux, hopefully you have rosin core 65/35 or 60/40 lead solder (I still don't trust the lead-free stuff); if you do then the flux isn't really necessary. The rosin core contains flux, which has a lower melting point than solder, so flux is applied by the iron heating solder on the surface. There are occasions when the solder type or the board you're trying to solder to needs a flux coat to prep the surface, but this isn't one of them.

Thirdly, make sure you have a decent iron that gets hot enough, and is properly tined. You should have a little solder on the tip (that is shiny) so that heat is properly transferred to the surface. Make sure you apply the iron to both the cable and the surface so both get equally hot. Once you flow solder on them, keep the cable still until the joint cools- it should also look shiny when done, (if it looks really dull, you have a cold joint, and need to reheat it.

Clamp the strain relief down on the cable and seal it up (I hope you remembered to put the sleeve and any shrink or cover over the wire before you started soldering..)

I've had to do hundreds of jacks for patchbays and audio cable tielines. You'll get better at it with practice.

Do not grab the wrong end of the soldering iron.

I really love my Hakko FX-888. They've gotten really hard to find, but I prefer the analog version, as I can reach over and put the temp right where I want it without looking at it. (Soldering sounds so much better on vinyl.)

Good magnifiers and third hand (or zillion hands!) tools are a must. Head-worn jeweler's-type magnifiers can be good.

Clear (rather than opaque) components jars/boxes/drawers/bins are great, as it makes it easier to find stuff.

I bought my gf a Fluke multimeter for her birthday. I shouldn't have touched it. Now my meter seems old, slow, inaccurate and annoying.

A Panavise or Bessey is incredibly useful.

> Flooring is one of my current sticking points.

My ideal would be something tacky--I drop things a lot!

I agree with the folks saying maybe go for a milling machine. You could get a little bench mill like the smaller Precision Matthews for not too much more, but tooling and everything will be another half to 3/4 of that budget for mills. Great if you want to get in to milling, though.

For nice new drill presses, Jet and Powermatic both offer solid machines, especially variable speed ones. Make sure you get yourself a good drill press vice and actually use it and clamp it down. And a set of really good metalworking drills, like these or a Norseman set or something. Those two things will make just about any drill press you wind up with more than capable.

Those three solder suckers are basically the same, and all good: metal tube that doesn't scar from molten solder, and a spring actuator latch you can work with one hand. Those all have a standard size tip (and standard size ramrod for clearing it after use); see if you can also find one that takes a smaller tip (the print on mine are long since abraded away, sorry), because there'll be times when that more precise tool is better. Also, have a spool of Solder Wick on hand (and get some practice with it beforehand so you know when it's more appropriate).

The strippers... That looks enough like the Ideal tool I use, but also get one that goes up to 30-gauge.

Get a DMM.

Iron: I'm still using the Weller WTCPL I bought in '74 or '75, with a coupla parts worn out and replaced along the way, proof that a good soldering station will last you for years. I swap tips depending on the workpiece; make sure that model you buy makes that easy, and that the offered tips go up to at least 1/8" width (for soldering transformer lugs and ground planes).

I'm not fond of the gator clip style of 'helping hands'. Working styles vary, but I think you'll get more productive use out of a mini bench vise like this or this, or, better, something built with steel rather than aluminum. Mine is 1-1/4" wide and steel, and it has that half-finished "made in Asia" look but it works. The important point is that it clamps to the edge of the workbench so it's immovable even when you're hacksawing a piece of circuitboard or pounding a bent piece of brass flat for a ground lug.

Sparrows provides good value but read below , it’s a lot of information but it should help
Ready ??? Ok here you go

Give this series a watch

https://youtu.be/5iY-NMaamrk and https://youtu.be/x_HbCExOxkc

I suggest buying individual picks Here is what I would buy if I was a beginner on a budget but sparrows sets are good just avoid ones with a lot of rakes

Peterson picks and prybar’s from https://www.thinkpeterson.com/individual-0-025-picks-plated-10-95-carbon-steel/?sort=bestselling&page=2

INDIVIDUAL 0.025 PICKS (PLATED 10-95 CARBON STEEL) $3 each Hooks 3,4,5 (hook 2 and the steep postal hook if can afford) Pry bar in .050 $10 Total $19 to $26

https://www.sparrowslockpicks.com/product_p/ft5k.htm Sparrows five piece flat bar set $9.50

$30 and you got what’s really needed listed above If you want to explore Multipick then their picks are awesome (same variety hooks 2,3,4,5)

If you are interested in a vice then

PanaVise 201 Jr. Vise
PanaVise Model 201 "Junior" Miniature Vise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61D22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_402qDbRXWR5BC
$28

PanaVise 312 Tray Base Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B63208?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
$20

And of course the stab! List follows in the next comment

A good cable tester is a godsend for making and repairing cables, especially for a beginner. But Is it safe to solder into a connector plugged into a cable tester like that? I've always been afraid that the hot pins would fry the tester. I'm a big fan of securing the connector in a small table vice [like this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057PUR88/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zZs-ub1KG1ZJ9
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057PUR88/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zZs-ub1KG1ZJ9)

Oh and clear heat shrink over Dymo Rhino labels is absolutely the way to go for labeling. Buy a spool of heat shrink off Amazon, it's waaaaay overpriced if you get the small bags of it in a store.

In my experience, the helping hands tools are too flimsy to do any real work on a board with them. I've always preferred to have a solid table clamp similar to this. You will be able to hold a board, solder on it, probe around on it with a scope or multimeter, etc. I haven't seen many helping hands tools that allow you to do that.

Separately, I would recommend a Weller or Hakko. I have a Hakko FX888D that works well and was relatively cheap (about $100). A good soldering iron will have good options for tip sizes AND provide heat to the tip making your soldering work nice and easy.

I like your setup. If you don’t have one already, Panavise makes some nice stuff. Like this:


PanaVise Model 201 "Junior" Miniature Vise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61D22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_986RDbYZT1M85


Also some version of the helping hands;”:

US $5.58 23％ Off | Helping Third Hand Tool Soldering Stand With 4X Welding Magnifying Glass led Adjustable 2 Alligator Clips 360 Degree Rotating
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Ea8dD8yg

And depending on what you end up doing, a hot air smd rework might be helpful to have. I initially got one to repair my arduino after blowing out a chip on it and have found it useful for heat shrink tubing and other projects that are repair work. Especially since nothing you buy nowadays comes as a through hole board. It’s all smd.


US $25.07 41％ Off | 700W 858D Hot Air Gun Desoldering Solder Rework SMD Station Set
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Bblg8Wyo

Thanks!

The tabletop vice is the "PanaVise Model 201 'Junior' Miniature Vise" (amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B61D22)

I use it mostly for soldering, but it is super useful in a lot of random situations. I am 100% pleased with that purchase.

I've been looking at vises recently. It seems like an odd gift but a great vice is really valuable. A key feature is that it's quick release. Here's one I'm looking at that has high reviews and is within the price point.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RH16O4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=EA8UFYDPE7JR&coliid=IUBSU3CI171VM

You'll need a bench with a vise so I'd look for tools that help me build one. There are hundreds of bench designs around but IMO the most important things are that it's heavy and rigid and that the legs are flush with the front edge of the top. If you're serious about it you could ask for one of the books on bench design. I'm only familiar with Chris Schwarz's blue book, but I can recommend it.
For a vise, a standard metal quick-release like this would be fine. You could also go with this style which is easier to mount flush to the bench's edge.

This thing isn't cheap, but it's come in handy quite a few times working on locos and electronics. You solution wins major creativity points, though!

Yeah I made sure to go all out on the casters. They are rated for 500lb a piece. Nice having the larger surface area when moving it.

The piping for the shopvac is the next priority. I have an idea where I want to run so it won't impact the storage but also not have many bends adding to the run length.

Question to anyone, do you run a chip bucket before the shopvac? I am debating having it all run through a chip basket first to get the big junk. The planer I am going to run a completely separate line.

I have a vice that will be mounted off the side. Something similar to this.

https://www.amazon.ca/6-1-Woodworking-Vise-Bench-Dog/dp/B002I2KFMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=vice&pd_rd_r=a9666810-31b6-4fa7-adbe-1989e615c013&pd_rd_w=KLaCe&pd_rd_wg=9ktKY&pf_rd_p=4cae2a3b-d298-4883-930a-9e8104e24e48&pf_rd_r=2YK6R807EY4SA76SG26N&qid=1571110337&s=kitchen&sr=1-1

Right now I have another vice that is on a workbench in the back room, left there from the previous owner of the house. It's ok for when ya really need one.

Cheers

I really like my eclipse 10" vise. I'm not sure what your bench looks like underneath so you might want to go with the smaller 9" or 7". It's pretty easy to install, doesn't rack and simply works right out of the box vs other options that take more time to install and tweak.

Link to vise

Yeah, those helping hands are trash.... I have one of these panavise juniors which works pretty well, but I like the suction base of the one you linked. I'd probably recommend it to anyone now over the panavise. (Whose heads melt if you hit it with a soldering iron, by the way.)

Those are really cheap. They are mostly used to solder wires since they can't support much weight. I would get him something better like this or this if you wanted to spend a little more. I have all three of these, so I know what is good :)

This Bessey stand on Amazon has treated me well since Christmas. Quick shipping, too. As for picks, Peterson's City Set is a popular beginning kit. You can purchase from other manufacturers if you prefer, but I'd recommend Peterson because they also sell their Prybar TOK tension wrenches, which can't be beat (edit: save on shipping if you buy those and Peterson picks). Highly recommended. All told, you should spend ~$100-$150 for the whole setup, practice lock and all. Even cheaper if you buy individual picks without a case.

> workpiece holder

> IMO those helping-hands with alligator clips are marginally useful but better'n nothing.

I'd like to tentatively second this. I've been using two helping hands tools to solder, and they kind of work... but I find myself wanting something more robust.

I think my next tool purchase may be a PanaVise. But I'd still like something to hold smaller things (wires, toggle switches, etc.) in place, so I may still keep the helping hands around for that.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

I built this workbench as a stress reliever from work, along with the fact that I needed a solid bench. The design came from the Jay Bates budget work bench (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fg5qjed7u-k). The final dimensions came out to 2'W x 6'L x 33"H. I put a tool tray on the back side and drilled a couple of dogholes for hand planing. The leg vise screw came from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Tools-Y18SS-Vise-Screw/dp/B01M2109GD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541380059&sr=8-1&keywords=leg+vise+screw&dpID=31Rf5g8-EpL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch). The only power tools used were a router and drill, other than that I used all hand tools.

http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BVVB-Vacuum-Base-Vise/dp/B0057PUR88

Something like this could potentially save your life. Never hold something in your hand and drill, ever.

They don't have to be super expensive. I splurged a little and got my 9" Eclipse vise for about $145. They have a 7" version that is only $100.

You can also make one out of some pipe clamps and wood, especially since you have a nice apron to work with on that bench. Check out Jay Bates' pipe clamp vise. This is much cheaper and will work well.

I did find a pretty nice vise. It looks like a jeweler's vise and vacuums the table instead of having to mount it


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057PUR88/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_m.4nybY1H3VNR

This is an excellent vice if you want to spend decent money on one.

Otherwise, Harbor Freight is your friend.

If you just want a leg vise, you can get the hardware for <$50. I got this one for $35, but now I guess an algorithm bumped the price back up to $50. Maybe it'll go back down? In any case, for $50 I'd rather go with this Veritas tail vise screw. Then you just need some wide scrap pieces to make the chop. edit: I suppose I should add I also had to buy the 1-1/4" auger bit that was like $25 too and like $5 for a 1" dowel for the handle, but you could make the handle.

Honestly, just buy a vice and a block. If you're in a place where you won't have a good bench to mount it, get a clamp-on vice and put it on a heavy table or desk.

If you're planning on doing much AR work at home, it really is the best way to do it. Bite the bullet, it makes things much easier.

I picked up this vise not too long ago and its pretty solid and easy enough to install. I painted mine black though because reasons

I just bought this vise for my new bench. Not a quick release but I've found it to be great. Planning to buy another for a tail vise soon.

There's always suction/vaccum based vices that just require a smooth surface to clamp to, vs the actual edge of the table. This one has rubber coated jaws so it should be pretty safe to use on gunpla parts!

Eclipse EWWQR9-NA Quick Release Woodworking Vice, Gray Cast Iron, 9" Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043YHD4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fdzLzbRABYF0V

I got it cheaper than the Yost for $60 from Amazon warehouse deals

I don't see issues with it. Extension is good. Maybe you would want a wider vise but good for my needs.
The cheapest I found.

I knew this bench would be sort of "baby". That is, I knew it would be just a benchtop (so common holdfasts are out), it would be cheaply and quickly made, and someday when my shop is not in my kitchen I would build a "real" bench.

I wanted some kind of hold-down clamps, but lacking the space below the deck, they'd have to attach somehow to the deck itself. At the time I was enamored with aluminum extrusion, especially its use in a knockdown turntable stand I was building.

As for the brand, I think I simply stumbled upon it through Amazon.

When I'm ready to invest in and build a bigger, heavier, less-flat-packable bench I want it to have Jorgensen vises & dogs: Jorgensen 41012 vise, Jorgensen 40709 vise, Jorgensen bench dog

This is the minimum of what I would consider acceptable.

It's actually cheaper than the "heavy duty" vise you linked, and the reviews are pretty solid.

I have no idea but how about a cheap table vise? Best purchase I've made for problematic issues like that.

How about a tabletop vise? Lots of options in different price ranges, but something like this will let him clamp the lock in place and pick it hands-free vs having to hold the lock and tension wrench in one hand and pick with the other.

PanaVise 381 Vacuum Base PanaVise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B63276/

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

• AR Armorer's Tool
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15 <- I got this one
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/925925/magpul-ar-15-armorers-wrench-multi-tool-steel-black <- the best one and most $$$
  
• http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx <- decent trade off
  
• 1/2 inch torque wrench
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Premium-Breaker-Length/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505016107&sr=8-3&keywords=breaker+bar
  
• torque screwdriver
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-2&keywords=vise <- bolt to workbench type
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-7&keywords=vise <- clamp on type
  
• upper vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
  
• lower vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
  
• moly lithium grease/aeroshell 33 MS grease
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• loctite 242 (blue) and 271 (red)
  
• roll pin punch set
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Delta-Roll-Install/dp/B01B3NWDIE
  
• You will also likely need some basic tools, like a hammer, screwdriver set, hex tool set, etc.
  
• OPTIONAL: scope bubble level; for use if you mount a scope
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool <- basic version, will work
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system <- fancier version. easier to use
  
• OPTIONAL: gun vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tipton-181181-Best-Gun-Vise/dp/B001AT3SCC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1505017850&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=gun+vice <- I like this one but there are cheaper options out there. Also, no you cannot replace an actual vice with this. This is more of a "holder" and won't be able to stand up to the torque you'll have to apply to some barrel nuts (30-80 ft lbs).
  
  ---
  
  As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
  
  From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
  
  If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
  
  Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.

I've been so happy with this one I bought a second. I like the lever mechanism much better than the twist release.

It's the Eclipse 10" quick release vise (https://www.amazon.ca/Eclipse-Quick-Release-Woodworking-Vise/dp/B004OCH206) which is actually pretty good and is based on the classic Record design. The bench on the other hand is shitty, I made it out of SPF which is too light weight, that's why I'm building a new one out of hard maple.

I'm about to add a few bench dog stops but I can't figure out the best way to add a clamp. Should I just buy a quick release clamp, or does it make sense to only buy the mechanism and build it onto the bench with custom wood components? And where would I find the parts for that?

Edit: I found what I was looking for. It's a 'quick release woodworking vice'. This is just the metal part but it has places to add wood jaws and comes with a dog stop in the middle.

I'm in the middle of building a Sellers bench with hand tools. Holy shit it's a lot of work. I've been planing boards for two weeks in my spare time, and I still have some 8 boards to go. Takes me about 15 minutes a board, and I've got 30+ boards to plane. IDK how Sellers does it so fast, but I think practice has played a large role. I started this project much slower than 15 minutes a board. I'm not doing the well in the middle either, so thats a few more boards to plane. To solve the vice problem, I got an Eclipse 7 and I'm going to cut a hole in the apron, route a slot in the bottom of the table, and mount it that way. I stole the idea from my brother, who did it to great success. So...it's not impossible, it's just a shit ton of work. If I did this again, I'd probably build a modified Wandel

If you use Amazon, The Bessey is sweet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057PUR88

I got mine on Amazon. Its made by Bessy. It was like $25. The company also seems really good cuz they replaced mine when I had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BVVB-Vacuum-Base-Vise/dp/B0057PUR88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479480318&sr=8-1&keywords=bessey+vise

the obvious answer is get a vice. you can get small ones on Amazon for like $17

with a vice you don't even need that jagwire tool, just a small hammer to tap the barb in

I like this one from Amazon because it is made of steel and has a vacuum base. $27 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057PUR88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Here's a link! It's a Bessey BVVB and a good little hobby vise.

I have this one. It's very nice.

Bessey BVVB Vacuum Base Vise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057PUR88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6i22xb8NHX6HZ

This is decent advice, but an anvil only has very limited use in the backcountry. I would suggest an ultralight vice instead, it is only 11 pounds heavier. As a bonus, there is also an anvil ontop. There were several times this would have been handy on my hike, such as not being able to get a jar of peanut butter open.

It is this one. I love it for the quick release.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043YHD4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, thanks. I try to clean up after every project. Gets annoying though hah.

Spend another $10 and get the Panavise JR. I promise you won't regret it.

I also use this table vise to clamp onto the clay extruder so I don't have to hold onto it. It is 10x easier to use with the clamp.

PanaVise products are popular among hobbyists. I use this model to hold small PCBs.

https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Vises-250-Clamp-Bench/dp/B002PCMKGI

Nope no drilling, it's got a clamp. I'll normally have to retighten it a couple times when using it, but it gets the job done alright.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043YIZOW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not a huge vice, it's a mini workbench haha, it's the Latta mini workbench and I saw the plans in a FWW issue

I like the panavise ones, also.

Vise, like this one

So I've been considering trying this project out myself being a beginner and all...but I'm wondering, how exactly would you attach a vise (kinda like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OCH206) to the face of the bench with its massive skirt?

lockpicking. A set of picks, and any locks you can scrounge.

Note: having a small $20 vacuum-mount vise to hold locks in while you pick them is optional, but recommended.

I bought this one, which is now about $100. It has been ok, ymmv.

Assuming you have a table with a reasonably thin edge:

1. clamp on vise
   
2. basic pin punch set
   
3. Hammer
   
4. Flat blade screw driver
   
5. I used a .025 feeler gauge to help me assemble the front takedown pin. Worked first try. Much easier than messing around with a razor knife.
   
   Last week I built my first AR on my computer desk in my bedroom. That said, I /did/ buy a complete upper, so I only had to build the lower and assemble the buffer tube (technically need to torque the castle nut, but if you stake it, it's not gonna come off, so unless you are assembling your barrel to your upper receiver or don't have much innate sense of rough torquing, I'd count the torque wrench as an optional tool)

An Eclipse style vise is popular. I personally have a leg vice but that doesn't work with a door/saw horse setup. I do use an eclipse style vise for an end vise. So one option is to use this vise now as a front vise, then use it as an end vise when you make a more permanent workbench.

I used what is called a large front vice see link below and mounted some 2-1/2" thick hardwood for the clamping surfaces. Something like this would work well on a thicker bench. My bench is about 2" thick and I added a 1-3/4" block between the underside of the bench and the vice so that I had a nice deep throat on the vice.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise

Here is a link showing the wooden block.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Quick-Release-Front/dp/B001RH16O4

I like the panavice 350 but at $70, it's too expensive for my budget. Instead, I opted for a cheap hobby table vice which works well so far. At $14, there's not much risk if you don't like it or it breaks, etc...

It was this or one of those vacuum vices you can get from harbor freight for $20 and the youtube video reviews weren't particularly great.

Bessey Amazon link

I've got This Bad Boy and I love him.

I did it myself by watching a few YouTube videos. I bought a new hammer strut so I wouldn’t have to remove the stock hammer. The hammer pins were a tight fit and were the hardest part. I also wish I had bought a spare FB block lifter spring as I spent 5 minutes looking for that bastard when it went flying.

Things I found helpful:

Slide: https://youtu.be/72tsympBaEo

Frame: https://youtu.be/bra39O8-Fxg

Sear Cage: https://youtu.be/dJSlfiuFRCg

Vice: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E2AQY

I use a Panavise 381.

Room for the tail vise. Otherwise it would have been symmetrical.

I got the under mounted 9" eclipse vise which essentially made me move the right legs 8" more towards the center than I wanted.

Eclipse EWWQR9-NA Quick Release Woodworking Vice, Gray Cast Iron, 9" Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043YHD4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ew-lxbJYVCBT0

Oh noez! This one is just a little more expensive.. https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BVVB-Vacuum-Base-Vise/dp/B0057PUR88

PanaVise 381

cheap vises are cheap

https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY

If you have something you can attach this to.

It’s a Bessy brand vise. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057PUR88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523170602&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bessy+vise

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004OCH206/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505423850&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=eclipse+vise&dpPl=1&dpID=31ChCEmTC1L&ref=plSrch


Rated by Paul Sellers. For woodworking I'm assuming...

I assume you meant vise, FYI it is very off center , I didn’t account for that so I have a big mistake to fix

Shop Fox D4026 Cabinet Maker's Vise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W16LVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DILvDbSPGMVQV

Depends on how tabletop you need it to be. I don't like the vacuum-seal ones, so my first one was this vise and I still use it. Doesn't work if your table is glass, though.

Sure thing! I bought this vise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OCH206/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also watched it on this price tracking website so I could buy it at its lowest price. Oh and I got a slightly used one, but aside from one scratch I wouldn't have been able to distinguish it from a new one.

https://camelcamelcamel.com/Eclipse-Quick-Release-Woodworking-Vise/product/B004OCH206

-The black case is Veritas' Cabinetmaker's Installation Kit
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71776&cat=1,41504
It includes:
-Low-Angle Jack Plane w/ 2 blades
-3 Butt chisels
-Flush-Cut saw
-2 Japanese Milled-Tooth files (flat and half-round)

The shoulder plane is Veritas Medium shoulder plane
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41182,41192,48430&p=48430

Hammer is Thor with soft and hard face
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001P0YF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A set of 4 Veritas Super-Hard milled scrapers
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32670&cat=1,310,41069

And last is Rockler quick release front vise
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RH16O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The vice?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013E2AQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The vice block for ARs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002E6P3IM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I have is this. The issue is that the top gripping portion gets knocked loose by sawing and really any force. Its making resawing a complete pain. I will keep that in mind for the vises in my future