Reddit mentions: The best bike baskets

Dude, you might be making a lot of assumptions, I am not totally certain you read my post all that carefully.
Mara + is a general recommendation for a general city cyclist and will be better and faster than vast majority of tires people currently have on their bikes.
Of course Schwalbe has a ton of different, more and less puncture resistant tires, the Mara+ is just the most puncture resistent. Despite having had Marathon racers/Regular Greenguard Marathons and Supremes and a bunch of others, I do not like them quite as much as the Mara+ for my daily rider bike, with all those other models I still had a way more flats caused by glass and other large debris. Besides the punctures, the sidewalls of Marathon racers are quite thin and caused me issues. The rolling resistance difference is small. But yes, you are right, the regular Marathon tire (1) is 170 grams lighter than the Marathon+ while offering a fair amount less puncture protection.

 

When I want to go fast I have a road bike (90s Specialized Sirrus) and a bunch of other bikes I can use.
However, unlike you and I, the average user may not have a fully kitted out workshop and a bunch of skills they can rely on at any time to fix flats or other problems. They may rely on their bike to get them to work on time or appointments, always. In that sense adding 340 grams of weight to their bike is probably a decent trade off for many people who would rather not spend money or time on flat repairs quite significantly more often..

 

Having said all that, Marathon Racers and regular Marathons are both a perfectly fine! choice for tires too if people don't mind the chance for more flats and prefer a bit less weight and bit more speed, people can compare / judge for themselves: https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews/compare/schwalbe-marathon-2015-vs-schwalbe-marathon-plus-2015-vs-schwalbe-marathon-racer-2015
 

About steel VS Alu and VSF, well, I did recommend to never buy new if at all possible, in generally the value is not there and then there is the theft issue. I could go on about how new derailleur bikes always have 27 or even 30 speeds and how those components wear out faaar faster and are way more expensive to replace than the 24 or 21 speeds you are likely to find on older MTBs,.. Yet I didn't want to get into all that. Some people like hub gears, some people like to convert their bike to singlespeed, some people will just ride whatever comes cheaply and works well with a second hand bike, I support all of that. Whatever works, safes you money and time and puts a smile on your face.

 

Having worked on many 1000s of bikes and frames across about a dozen professional shops and perhaps 20 bike co-ops, my experience with Alu frames and their failure rates differ from yours.

I have not seen not nearly as many broken steel frames (all things being equal, like both having a double diamond style frame and how old the frame is!) as Alu frames. It is not even close,... not even in the same league/ballpark. Again it is a trade-off some people make. If you are willing to have your entire bike be about 1 Kilo lighter (that will be about the diff between an Alu and good steel frame) total, and you do not mind that the frame is essentially disposable on the mid-term, that is a possible choice. From all I have seen, the expected lifetime of an Alu frame that is used daily and lives outside is 15 years at very most, I have seen plenty that failed in 2 to 7 years though, I mean experience, about 40% or more. Besides that being unacceptable to me from a reliability/cost perspective, I also do not like the environmental implications. The embodied energy to produce an Alu frame is absolutely through the roof compared to a steel frame. For myself, bikes/frames should ideally last for life, not be environmentally messed up to produce nor be semi-disposable. Lastly, producing a new Alu frame as cheaply as possible in Asia vs. buying a second hand frame, the environmental impact is rather different there too...

 

Simply put, the fast wearing, more expensive to replace, modern parts and the frame that will fail rather too fast and the much higher risk of theft, higher cost and environmental reasons above is why I would never recommend a new Alu Cube or Focus over a used, quality, steel bike for anyone who doesn’t put a huge premium on shaving off a few seconds on the average city ride. YMMV!

 

Funny enough, I do not recommend a hub Dynamo and matching lights for everyone due to weight and cost reasons (easily a 100 to 200+ euro upgrade). XD I use fixed Reelight magnet lights myself. I love them, but they are much harder to mount and cost about 3x as much as decent, simple LED battery lights,.. which will keep you just as safe. I don’t want to drive up costs or complexity for everyone just because of my personal preferences. Of course if you bike often on rather dark stretches of road or do not have great eye sight, then I would certainly recommend to look at a hub dynamo setup! For all others, you can get various, very light, cheap, rechargeable back and especially front lights that will illuminate the road well enough. Of course, you might have to take it off when you leave your bike or secure the light to your bike. It simply depends on the person and how often they ride really rather dark stretches and bad roads.

 

I do agree that Froschrad or Contoura are a better deal/choice than VSF in some ways. Of course I was aware of the fact that VSF is (part of) a very large company and does not produce their components in Germany. I partially included VSF because they can be easily purchased all over Germany, but again, my go to is used, older MTB due to the stellar value and some being are around 10 to 12.5 Kilos. Problem with Contoura is that almost all their bikes have Disc brakes and their 26 inch bike is a bright, rather light blue.

I dislike Maguras and to a lesser degree disc brakes for city (non off-road) riding, for various non-standardization, cost, maintenance, ease of repair and other reasons. I always recommend V-brakes with good brake pads. Yes, I am a proud Retrogrouch XD Unless of course something modern is far better and as reliable/easy to fix, then I will happily use and recommend it! Reelights, Mara+, V-brakes, LEDs, all those things are newer than the MTBs I am telling people to buy and I love them.

I never did, nor would recommended just any basket for everyone. What I did write is that I, myself, personally really like the smallest WALD basket, according to the companies’ website it weighs just under a 1000 grams.

 

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007WKOAK2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3MS2T5CROUES8&dchild=1&keywords=wald+fahrradkorb&qid=1575025492&sprefix=wald+fahrrad%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1

 

This basket will not “destroy” your handling. I never have and never would recommend any heavy baskets or front racks for the average cyclist. My recommendations are always based on practicality and intense real world testing, never on style / “hipster” considerations, personally I couldn’t care less about that.

 

What made you sure I do not use or recommend racks and panniers? I like and recommend both. On my daily rider I run a Tubus rack, sometimes Ortlieb panniers as well as that WALD basket, besides the basket I also a large messenger Chrome backpack I use very often. All of them have upsides and downsides and I use them for different purposes, but I do find my specific front basket indispensable for my usage in the city and I use it every day. YMMV.

I never have and never would recommend 50 wide tires for any frame that was not purposefully build for them. I recommended 28 through 42 width depending on your weight, how much luggage you tend to carry, what kind of premium you place on speed vs comfort and how often you ride over bumpy or slick terrain.

 

Finally, what I would like to emphasize to you or anyone reading this thread: above everything else, anyone that loves and rides and / or repairs bikes (any! bike) has my support, more power to you! :) Whatever bike makes you happy, keeps you safe and inspires you to ride and enjoy it more, that is exactly the right bike for you! In that sense my opinions and recommendations here or anywhere are irrelevant and don’t matter at all.

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

I haven't found a guide that I'm really crazy about. There are too many variables to build a really nail down a DIY. Every build is unique.

In general, kits are recommended for first-time builders. You can order a rear-hub kit, then order the battery separately. I'm in the US, so my knowledge is very focused on US suppliers. If EM3ev.com ships to the UK, they're a really fantastic supplier for both hub motor kits and batteries. Especially batteries. Most hub motor kits you find are variations on the same design, just knocked-off by every other Chinese vendor.

For a delivery bike, I'd look for an inexpensive 26" hardtail MTB frame. They tend to be stronger than 700C hybrid frames, so they'll hold up better to the abuse of the extra speed that comes with an electric motor assist. Aluminum is lighter, but steel will hold up longer. Don't worry about the extra weight; you'll be adding 25 lbs of motor and battery anyway. You can add a robust rack to hold your food delivery basket. Topeak is awesome and has accessories that should work for exactly what you're trying to do. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-MTX-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B000FI6WXQ/ref=asc_df_B000FI6WXQ/

When building your kit, you'll need to figure out/look for the following:

• Dropout width. Most MTBs are 135mm. You can squeeze/stretch this by 3-5mm without issue.
  
• Make sure there is plenty of space inside the frame triangle for the battery. This is why I don't recommend full-suspension bikes. Their triangle is usually pretty cramped.
  
• Disc brakes are nice for wet climates. Nothing like cruising along at 25 MPH only to find that your wet rim brakes take a couple of RPM to clear themselves of water before they actually stop you. Having said that, if you find a solid rim-brake equipped bike, a set of Kool Stop Salmon pads will do you just fine.
  
• When ordering/configuring your kit, you'll have to select "freewheel" or "cassette". This has to do with how the rear chainring(s) mount. Here's an explainer: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html. Don't sweat this too much, because depending upon your donor bike, you might change out the rear cassette anyway.
  
  A MAC motor kit from EM3ev would be a great fit for your purposes. Their kits are very configurable. With that motor and a CA3 (Cycle Analyst V3), you could start out with a throttle build, then add in a pedal assist system (PAS) later. The quality of the motor, controller, and CA3 is better than what you get on many store bought ebikes.
  
  https://em3ev.com/shop/upgrade-mac-kit-with-4750v-battery-1500w-max/

Thank you very much for the reply. You gave me lots of great information! I live right below a longboard shop, which also sells refurbished bicycles. I really like one bicycle that he has, but I would prefer new because all of the parts will be new, no previous issues, etc. He rebuilds them well, so his bikes are a consideration. I should also note that I would have to buy attachments for them (racks, lights, mirrors, etc), as they come bare.

I would like to stick with a commuter bicycle that I can ride sitting almost straight up. It is more comfortable for me and do not have the blind spots of when I ride a mountain bicycle (slouched over slightly).

Front and rear racks, as well as lights, will be some things I want to attach to the bicycle. I would like flat racks on the front and back, along with these attached to each side of the back rack. I pretty much want to use my bicycle to its full potential for cargo.

For all-around utility and versatility, a hybrid/comfort bike is a good starter choice, as could be a used mountain bike (either of these types can handle light gravel and gentle off-road use). Try to avoid department store bikes—rather, companies like Giant/Liv, Raleigh, Specialized, Trek and others offer good quality. Riding around town, you don't need suspension (it reduces efficiency), so look for a rigid frame.

Around this time of year, many bike shops will be clearing out this year's models to make room for next year; see if you can snag something good there, as well as checking Craigslist.

With your height, you'll be looking for a Small frame (around 16 inches/40 centimeters—the height of the frame's seat tube).

I'd look for a good-quality basic bike—for example, here is Giant's entry-level $330 Sedona W—and kit it up with fenders and a rack at the very least. Fenders will run around $40, and a rack will cost $25-50 depending on the type. I'd also recommend getting a pair of folding baskets on either side of the rack, which will help you carry at least a full paper grocery bag on either side.

You'll also want lights; Serfas makes a good commuter light set that's about $40 for headlight and taillight.

Saw a recent post on bikeporn and decided I had to get one.

Cannondale Hooligan with an Evo Brooklyn handlebar/basket combo. It's so ridiculous but I love it. Was actually pretty hard to track one down here in Korea - they seem to be much more popular in Japan.

Your bicycle budget is equivalent to US$440, is that just for the bicycle? because you could easily spend that just on a spare battery or cargo or comfort parts + shipping in which case you'll have to use a bike you already own.

Speed of food delivery is important so a spare battery sounds like what you need but would eat all your budget.

If comfort is what you're after, 5 hours is a long time to be in the saddle so I'd look into front suspension fork or a suspension stem, a sprung saddle or a suspension seatpost, comfortable ergonomic grips possibly with vertical bar ends so you can change your hand position.

If carrying capacity is what you're after, how much food do you need to deliver? If you're talking a stack of pizza boxes you could put an insulated bag on a flat cargo tray mounted on a front Wald or CETMA rack.

Weight and speed eat energy, you have a 720wh battery that BBS02 will consume at a rate somewhere between 15-30 wh per mile depending on how heavy your load and how fast you go, you'll exhaust the battery between 30-50 miles. Pedal in a low PAS level/low speed range ie level 3 of 9, 15mph to eke out the range.

That should work. Here's the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0012DZEBY.

There are other brands, but I can't speak to their quality as I've only used Wald's. I've had two (one stayed with a bike I sold) and they held up just fine for years, even in my rainy city. The one on my current bike was hard to attach (previous bike was super easy) but it was doable and makes it practically theft-proof.

Make sure it will fit your rear rack. It will be fine with almost any rack, but I've some really weird ones that don't seem like they'd work with anything, even pannier clips. You'd know if you had one already, though. 😀

No. At the time I started biking, you could get very good premade grocery panniers for $25, so it wasn't worth the trouble, I just bought two premade ones.

Grocery panniers are great for occasional use, but in the end, a Wald brand folding bike basket $20 at Amazon is the better choice. I have one mounted on all my bikes and I have a bike cargo net I can use to strap another grocery bag or something oddly shaped like a watermelon, to the top of the rack, and then I use the grocery pannier if I need extra capacity.

The grocery panniers are made of fabric, so they're not as durable, and so they are really only suitable for occasional use. The hooks jut out so you have to keep them facing out, their collapsibility makes them a bit flimsey, and the lack of two handles like a cloth grocery bag makes them sort of tippy when you have them strapped over your shoulder.

Get the folding basket for $20, a bike cargo net for $8, and two cloth grocery bags. You'll be way ahead and it will cost around $35.

Looking to get a rear cargo rack so I can carry two grocery bags on the side. Planning to get baskets like this.

Adopted a bike from someone else, size M, which lists the frame as 54.5cm by 54cm (around 21 inches). Does that mean a rack like this for 26"-29" frames is too big?

Any suggests would be fantastic. Thanks!

This basket works pretty well for not-too-heavy loads. It has a velcro mounting bracket and an additional quick release function for the basket itself.

Detachable rear racks are less good. They tend to be seatpost racks that aren't very useful. However on a frame with real braze ons at the dropouts and chainstays taking a regular rack off is just four bolts. You might even be able to get some butterfly bolts so on/off is tool free.

There are lots of cool mixte step through frames out there if you want to build a skirt-friendly conversion.

And there's the penny trick.

It’s the Thule Pack n Pedal

Thule Pack 'n Pedal Basket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FNSSDDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OJMNDbWZAK54K

It’s great, already love it and fits the rack well

I have a collapsible rear basket that is incredible! Keeps my backpack off my back (no sweat!) and perfectly holds a grocery bag for errands. Plus, it folds down almost flat, so easy to store & park. Best bike upgrade I've done!

If you already have a rear rack, Basil's shopping baskets are pretty great. They have extra long hooks so they can be attached and removed easily. https://www.amazon.com/Basil-Cardiff-Rear-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B01ISL6L4G/ref=pd_sbs_468_4?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=BSD13T7VFBCG3GQM0263

If you're in the market for a rear rack as well, the racktime rear rack has numerous quick attach options including a shopping basket: https://www.racktime.com/en/racktime-products/system-baskets/racktime-product/baskit-trunk/

I use both for my weekly TJ strip.

Regarding the shopping crate idea, it will be tough to balance attaching the crate securely with against convenient attachment/removal and weight of the attaching hardware. Not impossible but I think there are better options out there.

That basket looks identical to the Bell basket sold at all the big box stores. Pretty cool to throw on a beater bike, it pops off easily so you can bring it in the store and use it like a bag.

Cheap plastic mounts though

Edit: Here is Schwinn selling the same darn basket for 33 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Quick-Release-Wire-Basket/dp/B0030RS5IO/ref=pd_day0_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0030RS5IO&pd_rd_r=HBFVT8EJYVX6MQ51SM0T&pd_rd_w=CowhB&pd_rd_wg=xxDQK&psc=1&refRID=HBFVT8EJYVX6MQ51SM0T

I guess that Schwinn tag is expensive to produce.

I am a huge fan of a Wald 137 and a bungie net. Its inexpensive and easy to attach. I like that you can just pop what ever bags you have into and bungie them down.

I recently bought a dedicated winter bike. The motor on my folder is too powerful on slippery streets, and the dreailleur is too low above the ground: combined with 20 inch wheels it drags through deep snow.

Solution: I got a nice Pegasus with step through frame at a lost-and-found auction, 7 speed internal gear hub, hub dynamo, fairly new (2014 model) and in very good shape, for €200.

I installed a new LED front light (it came with a halogen lamp) because I wanted something brighter: Nothing fancy, just brighter.

Next was a folding [basket] (https://www.amazon.de/Basil-Fahrradkorb-Catania-Black-11055/dp/B000GQNJNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474823471&sr=8-1&keywords=fahrrad+faltkorb) for my grocery trips, mounted on the side of the rear rack, like a pannier. Now I'm ready for things to come.

I'm not sure about the tires, though. Continental contact, 42-622. They look brand new but I don't know how they'll handle snow and ice. I'll find out I guess.

I got this PDW Takeout Basket and it's pretty awesome. Not extremely roomy, though, depending on what you need to carry.

I carry my backpack in/on a front rack (well, handlebasket). Works well. I set it on top of a dry sack I use for kayaking if it's rainy. I got a really good deal on mine at an LBS otherwise I would have gone with a regular front rack like this

The wald link led me to finding this. May just be perfect for me without any additional purchases!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVZGXYH/?linkCode=xm2

​

Thanks again

It's a new basket. I got it on Amazon for $20.

They call it the "medium" basket, but it's actually quite small. You could fit 2 six-packs side by side in it and that's about it. I use it to put my Messenger bag in with a cargo net bungie when I commute.

I think in retrospect I might've opted for a slightly larger basket. It's just so damn handy to have when I run to the grocery store. However, the medium does look nicer, in a less utilitarian way.

No prob! Check this Swagman one out too!

I never thought of baskets at first either, but I definitely wish I had.

Don't buy this one.

The cloth around the bottom wire that is supposed to protect your frame or ease the rotation of the mount quickly wears through followed by the coating on the wire. Then you have steel rubbing against your frame wearing a nice groove in it if it is aluminum.

Thanks guys, do you recommend the Topeak folding basket as well?

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Trolley-Tote-Folding-Basket/dp/B0033VNCTE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WZVWZYE61ZGQCYH3EF7

I still own a car, but I live in the downtown area of Seattle and I've recently started biking a lot of places after my bike sat in my apartment for 2 years. It's been great, I no longer feel guilty about not going to the gym, and I don't have to buy almost any gas for my car. Also, I can get places a lot quicker than driving (and looking for parking in the city) or oftentimes even taking the bus. I bought a bike rack and some baskets and now I can go to the grocery store and carry everything home on my bike, even gallons of milk. It's great.

Have you looked at foldable metal panniers? I love mine, though not the same as the ones in the link. Only drawback with mine is the outside panel can pop open sometimes when unfolded - so I always have a couple little bungees in my backpack to secure them.

The ones I use attach separately; you can put just one of them on if you want (I usually only use one when I go to work because I don't carry that much stuff, for example). There are other styles that are one integrated piece, like this one; some racks have a spring clamp on top to help this style stay on.

Thanks!

More info on my Basket/Bars combo

I quite like it. It gets the job done for most minor tasks I have and for most things I need to carry around!

I use this on my rear rack and LOVE it! https://smile.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Bicycle-Basket-12-75/dp/B0012DZEBY/ref=sr_1_23?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1469217876&sr=1-23&keywords=bike+basket

If you actually want to use your back pack, as a backpack then skip the panniers IMO. While some get close, the ability to safely connect it directly to your rack will always lead to some compromises.

​

I went through three different panniers, and have officially given up. I installed this Wald folding rear basket on my bike and will never go back to a dedicated pannier. It works with my Northface back pack, that I simply bungie on there. I have a rain fly for my bag, so it is always water tight. Better yet it also works with a grocey bag, a 12 pack of beer, etc etc.

​

I still do have a second pannier tote, but I only bring it on grocery days.

I too was in your position OP. And I researched about portability comfort. Use of ingress and egress and style and price! My recommendation after 1yr of service is the mother fucking Wald folding basket. This thing is this shit. Here's why: it's cheap. Less than 30$. It looks good folded up! I can drop my backpack in it with my 16" laptop and a few books with ease. All that content being in my back pack. Once I get to school I just take my backpack out of the basket and folded it up if I want to or I just leave. It's awesome! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DZEBY?pc_redir=1410667964&robot_redir=1

They're nice and durable. I've placed 40lbs of stuff in it no prob. And all this ortlieb stuff is nice but way too fucking expensive if you ask me. And some of it looks weird as a backpack. Then the hooks That connect to your rack are running against your back and just ugh. This allows you to retain your original book bag

Thanks! That's what I was going for. Going to be adding a Wald 137 basket to the front and maybe some chrome fenders as well to complete the utilitarian aspect.

Looks like a set of these. I use em and really like them.

Getting a set of Wald folding baskets for my rear-rack was such a game changer. Best investment in my bike so far.

This one: https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-randonneur-front-rack-stainless-steel

Rack: Wald 137 Front Bicycle Basket (15 x 10 x 4.75, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012C7JO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n2hWDbKXY9A6A

Check out Swift bags for some sweet bags to go with it!

Maybe try something like this. So long as you have enough space that the front wheel doesn't bottom out on the basket I feel like it would work.

How about a front platform rack such as: http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Multi-Fit-Front-Bicycle-Basket/dp/B0080JOXQA

Then you can use those insulated shopping bags you can get from the super market.

Thanks, I use this bike for everything. Between the front basket (Wald on Surly) and rear saddlebag (Carradice on Nitto) I can carry everything I need for work and still have some room left for a quick grocery stop on the way home. Also handy for weekend campouts by bike. When this pic was taken we were coming back from a "coffee outside" meetup. The Nice Rack up front can take panniers too if more cargo room is needed.

The Wolverine frame has clearance for up to 2" tires so it's a pretty great all-rounder. I'm running 42c Soma Cazadero, which are designed for low rolling resistance on pavement while still having enough bite for gravel and dirt.

A bit on ther pricey side but topeak makes a rear basket that has a quick release and it has a handle and wheels to use while shopping. Keep in mind you will need a special topeak rack for it to work.

Topeak Trolley Tote Folding Basket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033VNCTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LKtODb2DKRF96

I got a Wald W582BL 582 Rear Folding Bicycle Basket (12.75 x 7.25 x 8.5, Black and the only installation issue was making sure that it was far enough back so that the heel of my big foot didn’t hit it while pedaling. It’s served me pretty well but needs a little silicone spray periodically to keep the folding points and locking latch moving smoothly.

Edit: url

Another option is Wald folding baskets. They go on the side of your rear rack (where pannier bags would go) and fold flat when not in use, but you can pop them out and hold a canvas bag of groceries in each one. I have them on one of my bikes and they're very handy.

Edit: here's what they look like on a bike (folded and unfolded)

Topeak has one.

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Explorer-Rack-Without-Spring/dp/B06XFM9DMH

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Trolley-Tote-Folding-Basket/dp/B0033VNCTE/ref=pd_sim_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0033VNCTE&pd_rd_r=X80032PKSET5EDP7ACFN&pd_rd_w=a6IQQ&pd_rd_wg=teaDP&psc=1&refRID=X80032PKSET5EDP7ACFN

Have not tried it out yet, but it seems like you just slide it on/off. Should be getting it sometime (haven't actually checked the tracking info yet)

Baskets are pretty cheap.

You can get Metal Baskets for the rear rack. They collapse and stay on the bike, very meh looking, but that's better isn't it?
edit:
here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2BGRSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lnfDybG6SF59X

This basket. It's my first time using risers and I like them so far

Looks like an EVO Brooklyn

Another option is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Bicycle-Basket-12-75/dp/B0012DZEBY/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1492789879&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2764782011

Fits one reusable shopping bag, and folds away when not needed.

Looks like a Wald 137 basket in black - https://smile.amazon.com/Wald-Standard-Medium-Handlebar-Basket/dp/B00LWIB7G0

Basket or milk crate bungee'd to rack.

Or if your rack allows (such as Topeak), a brand-specific crate that attaches securely to the rack via a locking mechanism. Example

>Have you seen how much those things cost? I paid less for my bike. If the goal is to save money, that would defeat the purpose.

You paid less than $40 for your bike? Good for you.

You're being penny-wise and pound foolish. I have nothing else to say since you seem to have a bottomless bag of excuses.

Topeak Tote on a Topeak Tourist rack if anyone is curious.

For a shopping bike you could just use a commuter, with a back rack and add two of those or something alike that you can remove. Unless you are shopping for a big family you should be fine with this. I am thinking of doing that with my commuter myself.

Within your price range you can get folding baskets. I like to use grocery panniers. The latter is more expensive but also lighter weight.

I like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012DZEBY/

It's a wire box that folds flat against your bike when you aren't using it. Perfect for my backpack, hoodie, and a couple other things. Or a grocery bag.

Or you could get a collapsible basket and put your backpack in the basket.

Not OP, but seems to be this one.

folding bike basket

In addition to everybody recommending pannier bags:

Rear rack side-mount wire basket: Wald 582, pair

Rear top-mount wire basket: Wald 585

File storage crate or a heavier duty milk crate

Right here https://www.amazon.com/EVO-Brooklyn-Handlebar-w-Basket/dp/B00P2BGRSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539765584&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=toba+evo+brooklyn

http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Bicycle-Grocery-Baskets/dp/B007FRCIDI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1344278627&sr=8-7&keywords=wald+basket+rear+bike !

I've been eyeing tie Wald 137 front basket, https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Standard-Medium-Handlebar-Basket/dp/B00LWIB7G0, at least 14.5" clearance needed between the hoods, and I think I max out at 14.0" so I'm still searching.... that PDW price seems a little high, even with the included bag.

To be fair, I have a commuter and a road bike so I switch bikes dependent on what I am doing that day. I usually commute on that one in the photo, and then use my road bike, which is similar to the mercier but with drop bars for recreation and exercise-longer distance bike rides.

The Dawes is a heavier bike that will be much more comfortable due to having fatter tires, and suspension on the seat post and the fork. With the added features it makes it more suitable for rugged conditions such as uneven sidewalks or streets, or if you had to hop off a curb in an "oh shit" moment.

The mercier is a lighter bike with thinner tires with no suspension whatsoever, making it more uncomfortable if you have to get off of uneven pavement. Saying that, this one is well suited if you want to take longer bike trips, if you "gotta go fast"

Here is the bike basket you were talking about Wald 582

http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Bicycle-Basket-12-75/dp/B0012DZEBY

The great thing about them is that they fold flat and take up no space. (someone else's photo)

http://imgur.com/gxhGfht

I think the backpack is too big and heavy for a front basket.

I was thinking either a rear basket similar to a milk crate like you suggest. The downside is that he's short so his seat is slammed and a basket/crate would be right at his back and make it difficult to get on and off the bike. That's what led me to considering a folding side basket in the position of a pannier (like this).

Do you ride a flat bar bike?

If so go for a Wald 137 mounts to either eyelets or the axle as well as has mounts putting it on the bars.

I ride drop bars, however it still works because I have it zip tied on a rack so it is lower.

I'd say it depends mostly on your alternatives. If something happens that won't let you ride home (mechanical, partial-theft, or weather) what are your alternatives? Can you walk or take a bus? Can you take your bike on the bus? Can you call someone for a ride? Will that person have room for your bike in their vehicle?

If something happens on the way to work, are you risking serious repercussions if you're late, or would you just have to call in and they'll understand?

So there's a whole spectrum of stuff you could carry, and it's based on "what would happen if I didn't carry it? Is it worth the hassle of carrying this?"

Personally I have a 4 mile commute, with bus routes or walking routes available through out. Being late for work would kinda stink, but not put me in any serious trouble. So for me that means I don't carry things like tubes, spokes, cable adjusters, etc. The risk of having to haul my bike on a bus or drive back to pick it up later is worth avoiding the hassle of carrying around extra gear every day.

Since you asked for examples, this is what I carry:

Mounted to bike

• U-Lock
  
  
• Cable Lock (for wheels and seat)
  
  
• Mini hand powered air-pump
  
  
• Water bottle holder
  
  Rear Cargo Rack
  
  
• a Collapsible Wald Basket, I love this because I can fold it out of the way when I'm not carrying anything. It's always there and I don't have to decide whether or not I want to bring it.
  
  
• Mini bunjee cords wrapped around the rack. I can use this to secure larger objects to the rack or basket. I rarely use them, but it's so easy to carry them why not?
  
  A handlebar bag mounted on top of my rear rack
  
  
• Wallet, phone
  
  
• Hex wrench set for quick adjustments
  
  
• Fix-a-flat can (probably should get rid of this as it takes up a lot of space)
  
  
• some spare bike-size screws rolled up in a piece of tape
  
  
• A very small first aid kid (band aids, gauze, over the counter pain meds)
  
  
• An emergency granola bar (has saved me a couple times when I'm 20 miles from home on a loosely planned ride)
  
  Run of the mill Reusable shopping bag (placed in basket)
  
  
• Work shirt (I ride in a t-shirt)
  
  
• Keys
  
  
• Tums (for me this is a must!)
  
  
• Deodorant
  
  
• Lunch, if I brought one
  
  
• Work ID
  
  
• Wipes
  
  
• Dollar store rain poncho
  
  
• Comb (beware of helmet hair)

I use a combination of Nashbar Townie Basket and classic wire basket. I use the wire basket for things that would cause the Townie to collapse. I use the Townie for things that would be small enough to fall through the wire basket or would get damaged being forced into the metal.