(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike shifters & parts

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

Halfords are more like Kwik-Fit. They do the same job as an independent garage, but charge more because they're a known brand and depend on people not knowing the difference/not caring.

If you want to outsource, go to a local bike store, or even Evans or Cycles UK.

Best approach I think is to just buy the tools, and do it yourself - bleeding brakes can be done with a £20 bleed kit(but please double check brand before buying anything), adjusting gears can be done with an £8 set of replacement gear cables and a multi-tool. All info can be found on youtube, manufacturer's guides etc.

You'll end up with more familiarity with your bike, and can save the money for a bigger tune-up for the larger jobs that are beyond your abilities.

9 and 10 speed cassettes have different sprocket spacing, which is why you're experiencing troubles. The width of the cassette is the same, but they crammed an extra gear in there by making everything a bit more narrow. The solution is to get a 9-speed cassette instead. (If you really want to keep the cassette, there's probably a JTec Shiftmate to do that, but I wouldn't go that route.)

A bike shop shouldn't charge more than about $20 to swap the cassettes. It's a quick and easy job ... assuming your chain whip doesn't break.

However ... if you wanted to upgrade to 10-speed, you actually don't need to spend all that much. The only components you'll need to replace are the shifters and the chain -- your current cranks, derailleurs, and brakes are all compatible with 10-speed. (Caveats: the newer Tiagra 4700 is not, and you have to be careful about brake pull.) So your cheapest path to upgrade is something like this and a $20 chain. Or any other older 10-speed shifter you find, which might be cheaper.

Is there a major improvement? Meh, maybe not. The shift quality will go up slightly with the better shifters. And you'll get an extra gear, which means less compromise when it comes to gear spacing or gear range. But personally, I'd just swap the cassettes and be done with it.

(Also, you can make your own chain whip with an old chain, if you want to try this again yourself.)

I got a ton of bikes but my test build was a small folding bike I was given.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/d536sb/my_shop_hopper_giant_halfway/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

I then bought a 250w front hub motor from Amazon

YOSE POWER 20'' Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Motor Kit with LCD Display E-Bike Conversion kit 36V250W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MTX98NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pQjGDb1MSAYA5

An extension cable for the pedal assist

color tree Extension Cable for Bafang Electric Bike Motor Bicycle Ebike Mid Drive Conversion Kits Expand Gear Sensor/Thumb Throttle/Brake Lever levers Waterproof https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07N78B175/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nRjGDb5P75MKW

A bag to hold the electrical components

BTR 5 Litre BLACK Handlebar... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00RTL2XIA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A holder for the battery

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273945584171

A battery

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352784525406

Some new tubes

Kenda AV Tube, Grey, Size... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003WF24VS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And tyres

Schwalbe Knobby Active Line Twin Skin SBC Wired Tyre-Black, 20 x 2.00 Inch https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E7RWADW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.UjGDbKMFVGR5

Pretty stoked on how it’s turned out!

Probably 3-4 hours in total to build and about £400 for the conversion.

I don't think you can buy the individual lever and get it installed for cheaper than just buying a brand new left hand shifter.
My advice would be to shop around and get a new or used left hand Shimano shifter/brake (make sure it's the same amount of gears as your bike) and just reinstall it on your own. Plenty of videos on how to install a shifter and it would likely be closer to <$100 compared to the $250 quoted

Edit-- first result I found is this one from Shimano on Amazon for $89, assuming you have a 2 speed SHIMANO ST-5700 105 Shift Lever (Black, 2 Speed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00629Q3RW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ukPgDb3NKZRP7

Edit 2 -- https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/shimano-105-st-5703-road-shifters-left/135996764/p

Just some links. Definitely could search around more. Make sure you're getting the left one

Bike originally retailed for $1,129.99 source

He does say that the shifters need replaced, which is going to run you about $40-$50 for the parts, if you can install it yourself.

I'm a fan of the pedals on the bike, although they aren't that expensive to pick up, about $40. If he isn't selling cleats with the bike, and you don't have cleats, they are going to cost you about $16. I can't tell what kind of bike computer is on there, but low end bike computers can be had for $10-$20, so they usually don't drive up the bike price.

It is nice that it was overhauled recently, but the items listed sound like the bike has not been used gingerly, however that is the norm for mountain bikes. The bike seems reasonably priced, but if you are looking to talk him down I would quote the "scratches and stuff", shifter replacement, possible lack of cleats, and the fact that the drivetrain is previous generation 9 speed, not 10 speed. From the unwillingness to ship and the overall state of the bike, especially the lack of cleaning prior to picture taking, I would bet that the seller is largely trying to get rid of it, as he quoted, "I am buying a new bike & do not have room for a lot of bikes".

My personal strategy, were I negotiating on this bike, would be to cite the problems with the bike, give a lowball offer at $300, and be happy if you were able to scoop it up for $350, though $400 does not seem unreasonable considering the equipment.

Overall I have found that X-7 and X-9 perform well, and personally do not mind running 9 speed kit in my mountain bikes. I have had a lot of success picking up older bikes on craigslist / ebay, and the huge cost savings far outweighs the fact that your bike isn't as shiny.

Wiggle and Chain Reaction Cycle are where I get most of my components. I'm in the US and both of them are in the UK, but they're still a much better deal than most US based stores. For example, let's say you wanted to get a pair of 105 shifters for your road bike. Here are some options:

• Amazon: $249.18
  
• Wiggle: $149.73
  
• Chain Reaction: $151.99
  
  All 3 offer free shipping on this item. Chain Reaction shows it out of stock now, but the point still stands. They usually have stuff like that in stock.

It's really a thing and I personally love being able to shift from either location. It's great when / if you do a lot of climbing. I typically recommend people go for it if they're going to have Di2

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https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Di2-Brake-Shifter-Bar/dp/B00HF7SOOK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540413302&sr=8-2&keywords=Di2+tt+shifter

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Maybe a 7-speed system like this, plus a 7-speed freewheel?

This takes care of the downtube shifter issue (which I completely understand--I have a 1987 bike that I converted to indexed shifters).

And a 7-speed freewheel will probably fit your current frame (there's nothing you can do with the dropout spacing on an aluminum frame).

The only thing that's not totally clear is whether you can improve the gear range.

If you could manage $70-odd for a couple of good upgrades, that could be made to ride quite well (for what it is). Assuming everything works, I'd suggest losing the grip/twist shifters and replacing with Shimano ef51 shifter/brake levers and Shimano t4000 linear pull brakes. Looking at the pic, will likely need a new chain as well, so add $15 for a KMC 7sp chain. The benefit of these changes mean braking is more consistent and the shifter will actually work properly as opposed to only occasionally (Shimano twist shifters are garbage)... Then just give it a service, and enjoy.

I have Paul Thumbies which I use with Shimano 9 speed barcons on my touring bike and they are lovely! These VO models you have linked too APPEAR to be quite well made (and they certainly have the price tag to match). I love VO and will never speak down on them, but if it's important to you, Paul are machined in the USA and I believe VO is not.

Another option that's cheaper, but still very solid (I put them on my GF touring bike) and doesn't require barcons: this

Those shifters likely won't work. I'm guessing they are indexed since they specify 7 speed. You can usually switch between 5/6/7 speed freewheels pretty easily, though you may need to play with the axle spacers a bit.

I'd probably do something like these: http://www.amazon.com/SHIFTER-ROAD-ACTION-STEM-CABLE/dp/B001CZQR86

They are non-indexed and will work with just about any derailleur.

yeah, with the road link PLUS a long cage rear derailleur, you could run something like this for a low gearing cassette: https://www.amazon.com/cassette-Freewheel-derailleur-extender-JGbike/dp/B01MTX8J3H/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1525739460&sr=8-19&keywords=9+speed+cassette


prob overkill! lol but it's doable, just gotta find a long cage rear der that plays nice with your shifter. Totally doable though.

Long pull levers have more mechanical advantage; I think they perform pretty similarly (if long pull levers are paired with long pull brakes and short with short). Your choices for flat bar short pull levers are very few, however; these are probably the easiest to source.

I'd get the Avid speed dial levers over TRP levers, as you can tune them a bit (and they're cheaper).

Thanks for the reply!

Shifters are these. It's one long pull, one short pull that moves the derailleur a tiny bit, and another long pull. Doesn't say that anywhere though on the web.

I guess it makes perfect sense when you say it, that it's to increase range and reduce chain rub.

I would choose between two options. If you're deciding on those levers and keeping the brakes, grab a Shimano 3x8 bar end set. The price doesn't seem to be much different from the Microshift version and the indexing would match.

If you're willing to swap out the V-brakes and get cantis, I would go for a Microshift 3x8 STI set and some cheap cantis (but nice pads).

Good luck!

Okay, i guess I'll just have to get some compatible brifters and some compatible brakes then. Looking at these:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-2303-3x8sp-front-rear/dp/B003BCE7DU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_3

I heard they work really well on this particular application.

Thanks for your help

Very clever, I like this idea a lot. I would also consider adding some sort of clip that could act like a parking brake.

As for the uneven braking, you could try a brake cable splitter or a dual cable brake lever so you only need one lever to operate both calipers.

>Edit: Can I swap out just the front shifters with these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPVUMOY/ref=twister_B00L096XLU?th=1&psc=1.
Will this work with sora front and rear derailuer?

No. That is a 11-speed shifter. It works with a 11-speed chain and a 11-speed rear cassette.

Please tell me EXACTLY which model Sora she has. Sora has been around for over 15 years in different varieties. Current Sora is 9-speed. I know the 8-speed Sora shifters had reach adjustment. There's a screw at the top of the hoods...if you tighten them, you reduce the reach which would help you wife.

Not sure if you have a 10-speed 105 rear derailleur or 11-speed, but here is what you need:

If you have 10 speed: Shimano 105 5700 10-speed shifters

If you have 11 speed: Shimano 105 5800 11-speed shifters

The prices are a bit expensive on amazon, you can probably get the shifters on Ebay for ~$100.

As for the brakes.. assuming you have rim brakes, those can be brand-mixed easily with no issues.

Sunrace cassette 9-speed 11-40T CSM990 wide ratio (Sliver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTX8J3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_E5aLEH7DMDO1P

http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Cable-Doubler-Brakes/dp/B001CJVLRO


http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cable_doubler/


http://www.brakedirector.com/


http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1