Reddit mentions: The best bike shifters & parts

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

The big thing about converting to drops is that they can add a lot of reach to your riding position. The second part of this guide can give you a good rough idea of whether you might need significantly more or less reach than you currently have, which you can adjust a little bit with different stems.

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-a-Road-Bike

Ultimately it's generally a lot of trial and error though. And it seems your bars are already 31.8mm so you might actually be able to use the same stem. At least for now.

I have absolutely no idea how much those origin8 parts would cost you. But you can probably get the bars themselves for less than $40, eg:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1033658_-1_400213__400213

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1184245_-1_400213__400213

The main thing is the width, which largely depends on what sort of bike sizing you have and how big you yourself are, but since you're coming from super wide flats you could probably stick to 44cm regardless. The other difference is shape, which is largely personal preference. Doesn't help you much, but depending on what you want to use the bike for a shorter drop might be more comfortable. And at some point you just have to make the call on what looks most comfortable to you.

Your disc brakes are linear pull, which means it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use normal road levers with them. Tektro do a set of linear pull road levers which would probably be the simplest solution:

http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=10&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3

Pretty cheap too. Shifting is a little more awkward, as your thumb shifter will probably have a diameter of 22.2mm and modern road bars are generally 23.8mm. But that shifting position itself is generally pretty awkward, yes. Your hand has to move quite the distance from the hoods or the drops to get there, around the bars themselves and often requiring you to change position. Short of using a road lever with a cable pull adjuster or something, which can get quite complicated and isn't generally the best, the best option is probably a bar end shifter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SUNRACE-SHIFTER-HB-BAREND-SLR96/dp/B00JVK5ZLY/

So all in all that'd be around $40 bars, $25 for the levers, $35 for the shifter, $10-15 for some bar tape and maybe $15 for a new set of cables;

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Basically something like that plus a new bit of gear cable outer, to cover the distance from the shifter to the first boss on the frame. Probably cheapest and simplest just to get something like that from an LBS. But all in all that'd be around $125-130, if you're lucky and it's comfortable as is. If you need a stem with a different length or angle, probably closer to $150. If you do the work yourself. But for that you could end up with quite a nice gravel/adventure type bike which could turn its hand to endurance road riding, cross riding or touring/commuting quite nicely.

Alternatively you could just get some bar ends, which can help even if your arms are quite spread out. But if you want to get into longer distance riding, you might feel the need to upgrade again before long. Bullhorns can be nice, but often have a lot of the same problems with different diameters, and you still can't brake from that position unless you had TT style levers which I don't think you can get in linear pull. And they'd still need bar tape and such. You can do the research yourself, I just think it'd be a large portion of the investment in an attempt to mimic the riding position of a road bike anyway.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

The cheapest option to get the shifters up to the bars is to use old-school stem shifters. There are plenty of idiots that think they're amateur and will tell you silly things like they impale people in crashes or whatever but it's just more cycling-culture snobbery. Bar-end mounted shifters are nice but if you don't ride on the drops they can still be a reach... and it would cost anywhere from 30-100$ to get them. Brake-shifters are at least 100$ and you'd need to convert to 7 speed at least to use them. Personally I love DT shifters and would encourage you to try and use 'em, it'll become second-nature before long.

I've worked on heaps of bikes just like this at our local co-op and they do indeed last a long time with minimal work. Learn to measure your chain for wear (check the Sheldon Brown link or Park tools) you only need a ruler to do it. Plain old 5/6/7 speed chain is around 10$ for a new one, same with freewheels.

I would buy stainless cables and new housing for the brakes, as well as new pads. The brakes themselves look decent and can provide more than adequate stopping power, the only downside is that they sometimes tend to end up out of centre after a while.

I'll also agree with all the other postsers that Paselas are probably the nicest tire in 27", I have two bikes them and they are pretty good all-around. Continental Gatorskins used to be easy to find in 27" but I haven't looked in a while, they are more flat-resistant but offer a harsher ride because of it.

You definitely need something there in order to get the shifters going. You can either use the drop down shifters, which I have found for decent prices on ebay, but also some at exorbitant prices. Like I have bought some 105 7-speed and dura ace 6-speed each for less than $10 but some people slap 'classic' or 'rare' on it and charge $50-100. You can also get some of these without buying the shift lever bosses, but it has to be the right diameter for the down tube, and I'm thinking the r300 tube is too narrow for that bike. But, measure so that you know for sure.

Also, what type of rear derailleur is on there? This will determine the type of shifters you get. The ones linked are 8-speed shifters, but I use with a 7-speed rear derailleur by locking out the last cog. It looks like you have an RSX on there that is 7-speed, but if you can find the model number, you can confirm this for sure.

Also, you can get these that screw on to the shift lever bosses so that you can run brifters like these. I did this on an old bike that had shift bosses for drop-downs, and it worked out nicely and was relatively simple, and the linked brifters came with cables. Or, you could always change the bar to a flat one and get something more economical from the mountain line, and the flat bar may be an easier ride if your dad is older.

Hope it helps!

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

• GoPro Hero3 Black
  
  
• NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear
  
  
• Nite Ize HandleBand
  
  
• Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes
  
  
• Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+
  
  
• Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag
  
  
• SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard
  
  
• SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)
  
  
• Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set
  
  
• Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set
  
  The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
  
  I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
  
  Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
  
  I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
  
  As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
  
  If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).

Honestly unless you're super committed to that frame I'd find another bike. However there are some considerations if you're pressed on budget.

The bars, here's a flat bar on Amazon:
Bars
New Stem:
Stem

Some tektro levers, and brakes are your best bet. Good value and performance.

Levers:
Tektro levers
Calipers:Calipers

Shift levers for the new bars:
Levers
These may not fit the bars, the clamp diameter wasn't listed.

Of course then all new cables, grips for the bars, and a new chain might also help. I just gathered those components on price alone. So if you have money to spare then I encourage it. As is, that bike wouldn't have my time or money, however if I were to upgrade it that's the way I'd do it. Cheers.

Just ride it til it breaks, then if you like it and maybe have gotten in better shape a little you can buy a nicer bike. In the end you will need something like a trail or all-mountain bike.



If this is your bike



http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2001&Brand=Raleigh&Model=M40&Type=bike



or close, and its the right shifter thats busted you could probably try this



http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6



Your local bike shop could probably help you too. I am not talking about some big chain shop, I'm referring to a good mom and pop or small local chain.


Good Luck

I just got a new bike myself. Layered security seems best on top of your insurance. Good locks and layers make your bike a hassle to steal.

1. Use a cover whenever you can. Not being able to see what you bike is exactly is or what security is on it help a good bit. Cost : 30-80 USD
   
   
2. Quality Disk Break with alarm and good lock. Abus Granit Detecto X-Plus 8077 was my choice. Cost : 180 USD plus $10 for a bright colored lanyard to run from the lock to the handle bar.
   
   
3. Quality lock and chain. I went with Abus again. ABUS 37RK/80 KD Granit Extreme Lock and ABUS 14KS 6' Maximum Security Square Chain and Sleeve, 9/16" Diameter Chain Link. Cost : 130 USD and 110 USD.
   
   I have a covered car port and I lock the bike to the steel support beam. I take the disk lock alarm with me where ever I go under the seat and leave the chain locked to the pole when not in use.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUKQHEG
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GE9H8W
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMCCZO
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZN6M0

First off love your bike dude

Second off i love this $8 shifter set from amazon. Not bar end though, but work great on all shifters https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1501644368&sr=1-1&keywords=friction+shifters comes with cables n housings too

not really bar end but maybe you could mount them on the bar end?

Either way love the bike just htought i'd mention it because you said you are $ conerned

I'm interested in replacing the brake levers and gear shifters on my road bike with a brake/shifter combo. I've linked one I've been looking at on Amazon below. What I'm curious about, is how do I know if it will be compatible with my bike? It's a 21-speed, but I'm not sure what qualities I should be looking for to find a pair that will work. The bikesdirect link is to my bike.


Any suggestions about a good shifter to get and what to look out for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011IL1EP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519154351&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=microshift&dpPl=1&dpID=417kpRtm-wL&ref=plSrch


http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2-xv.htm

I recently just did exactly what you want to do. I'll link the parts I used and bought off of amazon. Bar end shifters, drop bars and drop bar brake levers for V brakes. I bought cable and housing for brakes and bar tape from LBS but you could just get that from amazon as well. The shifters come with cable and a few pieces of housing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5EFOC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IORJVU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4UHF6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Edit: just noticed you said you needed 9 gears in the rear so the shifters I linked wont work but you should be able to find some that would on amazon. My Sirrus only has 8 gears in the rear.

I did this with my 1983 Cannondale a couple of years ago. It's pretty easy.

First, locate some bar end shifters. These Shimanos will probably be your only option because you'll have a 5 or 6 speed rear hub. The package says that they are for an 8 speed cassette, but you will need to flip them into Friction mode. I've tried, and they almost but not quite work in Index mode.

The package will come with new, longer cables, new cable housings, and most importantly, cable stops that will bolt onto the boss on your frame - the section left on your downtube when you remove the d/t shift levers.

There should be some directions in the package. You will need to unwrap your handlebars, remove the shifter from the shifter housing, then insert the shifter housing into the handlebar ends (I snuck the bar tape end along with it) and snug them up. Replace the shifters, feed the cable through , put the first set of cable housing on, and run the rest back to your derailleurs like you would for any other shifter.

They will friction shift, so the adjusting should be easy. Wrap the bar tape so a little housing rides up to the first bend (there might be some plastic stuff to make this easier), and finish wrapping.

Here's what my ST500 looked like when I got it, and here it is with the new shifters and brake levers being installed.

For anyone interested, I was able to keep the cost super low for three main reasons:

1. Microshift brifters. 3x7 set was $55.00 on Amazon.
   https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4
   
   
2. Lucky enough to have a bike co-op in my town - sold me the handlebars and stem for $15.
   
   
3. Lucked out on my first craigslist bike (1992 Diamondback Override for $40), which I purchased with very little research or knowledge at the time. After I decided to go ahead with the conversion against the advice of most of the internet, I read everything Sheldon Brown has written about cable pull. Turned out I had no compatibility issues going from mountain brakes/shifters to road brifters since I have cantilever brakes. Had I wound up with a different bike it could have been a different story. Also was able to keep original derailleurs.

Yeah, I've decided to go that route. It's significantly cheaper and way less effort to just get friction shifters and new brake levers (since the current shifters are a combo). I just wish I could find a set of friction shifters I like :-/ Amazon is lacking in their selection. I want something that's of decent quality no more than $20-30 and grey/black. I've got these in my cart, and they look like they may be kindof cheap (though they have good reviews) and I don't have red anywhere else on my bike so it kindof bugs me that they're that color. I'd like to find shifters that match my new brake levers.

I was a student too, but I forked out a bit of money for shifters like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-SL-BS64-Ultegra-Shifter-8-Speed/dp/B000F5EFOC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540826780&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=bar+end+shifters+7%2F8+speed


I found some non-indexed shifters for less than $80 on sale and you might be able to as well. They are a LOT nicer than downtube shifters IMO, and they are compatible with any cassette or freewheel (up to a point).

I'm guessing the $40 saddle is a take off from another bike that someone swapped out.

$26 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUCN0MG

The hanger is a good price.

Put the saved money into a better than stock saddle and do it yourself. You'll learn something new and you're bike will be better in the end.

Edit: I don't think the end price from the shop is unreasonable.

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

So, you're kinda going down a rabbit hole here.

First: Most 7-speed freehubs use Uniglide cassettes, with a threaded small cog instead of a threaded lockring. The only 126mm OLD hub I can think of off the top of my head that fit a modern Hyperglide cassette is the FH-1055 rear hub from the 105SC group. If you're OK with freewheels or vintage Uniglide cassettes, your options will open up considerably.

You're also going to need a new derailleur... The cable pull ratio of your SunTour Accushift does not match the cable pull of those Microshift brifters. Any 6-9 speed Shimano derailleur, pre-9-speed Dura Ace exluded will work with those, so you should be able to find a suitably vintage looking derailleur to match your bike.

Finally... if you're trying to build a bike to "crush the MAMILs... as a rebuke to their carbon/lycra obession", why aren't you going full L'Eroica with your bike? I'm really curious about the decision making process behind which parts you want to keep vintage and which ones you're willing to modernize. (and an aside: I'm plenty fuckin' fast without a carbon fork and shifting by feel instead of through clicks.)

Ooooooh yeah! You did well. That's not a bad frame; it's not a great frame but it's not bad at all. That bike has the same geometry as the touring bike "Trek 520," but it has a flat bar. The brazeons aren't as nice either, but oh well. That's one of the few bikes you can convert to a drop-bar bike where it makes since because the fit isn't compromised and you don't have to make a bunch of compromises with adapters and stuff. You can toss a drop bar and brifters on that bike if you want if you put a different stem on it. Or you can put on drop bars and bar end shifters for around $50 (used.)

If you stick with the flat-bar 7 speed stuff replacement components are cheap as hell. Upgrading to trigger shifters is like [$36 a pair](https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-SL-M310-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B003ZM9RX6] as an example. New chain is like $8. A new RD is $17 and it's one of the best you can buy

Adjusting the brake pads is an absolute nightmare though; no other brake system even comes close to the difficulty they present. The bike has low-profile threadless post cantilevers and they're the absolute single most difficult brake to adjust. I'm pretty close to spending the $50 myself for something easier.

I got some downtube shifters from amazon pretty cheap, and they've been working great for me so far.

They look cheap, because they are cheap, but I liked them more than my stem shifters. I didn't want to disassemble my stem shifters to put on this bracket, but you probably could if you wanted.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLR03-Friction-Stem-Shifter/dp/B0084UHAJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449807462&sr=8-2&keywords=Downtube+shifters

EDIT: they even came with cables

Just remembered something else that you didn't have questions about, but that you'll want to know about: cables and housing. If you don't already have a set in mind, I'd recommend looking at a Jagwire Racer set--very good for the price.

Hmmm, not a lot to say and nothing fancy. I bought the bike in Summer of 2011 after my earlier bike was stolen from the family garage. It originally had the Fuji factory bar with a slight rise and separate Shimano brakes, rapid fire shifters and the 'meh' hand grips.

Summer 2012, everything on the original handlebar including the bar itself was stolen overnight while the bike was rack locked and I was upstairs in a beach condo. F**king theives!

I replaced handlebar with a Ritchey https://ritcheylogic.com/comp-sc-rizer-mountain-bar
and outfitted it with Shimano combo brake/shifters https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ST-EF51-Brake-Shifter-Levers/dp/B00MUCN0MG
I got the standard Ergon GP1 grips and separate climbing bars wrapped in bar tape. It's not the best of setups, I should have gotten the GP5 model https://www.rei.com/product/884447/ergon-gp5-handlebar-grips . The bar is too wide even for a big guy like me (6'1" and 250 lbs.) So, I cut off about 3/4 of an inch from the bar ends to narrow my arm position. The Topeak bag on top is great for often used items (wallet, phone, gel packs, keys, etc.) https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Compact-Handle-Bar-Bag/dp/B001T2U1FM/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495644165&sr=1-2&keywords=topeak+handlebar+bag

That's probably WAY more then you wanted to know. But it is a REALLY comfortable ride and has served me well. For a second trip, I replaced the seat tube with an Uno compressor seat post and the saddle with a Selle SMP TRK. So Butt fatigue is completely gone. ;)

If it's using bar-end shifters and doesn't have bosses for downtube shifters, your best bet is going to be to use some friction thumb shifters. Unless it already has indexed shifting, the chances of an indexed shifter working on the existing derailleurs is pretty low.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.

Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.

With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.

As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.

All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.

Rear derailleur - $20

Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring

Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear

Downtube shifters - $14

Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.

It's a huffy bike with shimano derailers.
I was considering this set of shifters as I'm almost positive they're the ones I liked in my buddy's Gary fisher.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001NVAI7U/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7W90RMKTHOTS

Check out the Microsoft brifters, they've gotten some pretty good reviews and can be had new for 55 usd. They are compatible with any 3x7 as far as I know. I've been eyeing them to replace the stem shifters on my hunk of junk.

https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4

Edit: again with the autocorrect

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

inexpensive brifters

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Any shop can build up a 3 speed fixed wheel for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-S3x-Fixed-Gear/dp/B0042R50QQ

It would help us understand your options if you could point out what your dropout looks like from this image.

http://sheldonbrown.com/images/dropf-short.gif

You can get a friction shifter, which is non-indexed. That way you can use whatever number of gears you want without having to worry about it again.

Shifting is more clunky with a friction shifter, but once you get used to it it's fine. As a bonus it's easier to sweep gears faster.. so if you are in a high gear and need to come to a quick stop, you can shift all the way to the lowest/tallest gear really quick.

I use this style:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/

They use a cheap and ugly clamp, but you can take it on and off without removing your other stuff. Also works with whatever style of handle bars you have.

THE WRENCHER: buy some cheap friction shifters. Use the brakes levers in the kit. Be happy.

> Disk locks are pretty effective the downside is youll inevitably forget its on and try and go with it on probably dropping your bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Bicycle-Security-Reminder-Cable/dp/B0022ZN6M0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=reminder+cable&qid=1562610368&s=gateway&sr=8-3

every time

You can buy just the cable pretty cheap

The shifter (on the handlebar) was your issue, not the derailleur. if you don't want to clean out the shifter (it's easy, I promise!), you could use these shifters with this derailleur.

Edit: Saw the 9 speed. Nevermind about buying take off 105 stuff. Those Sora ones will work.

Go ahead and buy new brake and derailleur cables, as well as housings. A full kit will set you back $35: http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Complete-Brake-Derailleur-Black/dp/B001C4NJME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425568415&sr=8-1&keywords=jagwire+road+kit

Buy some new bar tape: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=road%20bar%20tape&sprefix=road+bar+t%2Caps

Then read up on youtube on how to do this. It's fairly straightforward. Your hardest part is going to be cutting the housing. The brake housing requires a diagonal cut, while the shifter housing is a straight cut. If you don't have a cable cutter, use a dremel, or find a friend with a cable/housing cutter.

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

Looks like Microshift knockoffs? Which is weird, since Microshift is already kind of the knockoff brand. Might be worth it to just get the name brand knockoffs.

Not sure if you have a 10-speed 105 rear derailleur or 11-speed, but here is what you need:

If you have 10 speed: Shimano 105 5700 10-speed shifters

If you have 11 speed: Shimano 105 5800 11-speed shifters

The prices are a bit expensive on amazon, you can probably get the shifters on Ebay for ~$100.

As for the brakes.. assuming you have rim brakes, those can be brand-mixed easily with no issues.

These shifters(www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86/) will work fine assuming that there's nothing wrong with the derailleurs. As the previous reply stated, it could also just be friction between the cables and housing.

> they wouldn't work as fixed.

oh yeah?

http://sheldonbrown.com/asc.html

http://www.amazon.com/Sturmey-Archer-S3x-Fixed-Gear/dp/B0042R50QQ

You can adjust the travel of the dérailleur so it doesn't pop off. Other than not keeping the index I never had trouble with mine. I prefer friction mode though and that is a very cheap option. A pair of them can run as little as $9.

I want to get a 3 speed fixed hub for my commuter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042R50QQ?pc_redir=1395216240&robot_redir=1

Are you talking about stem shifters?

For example, any reason why this wouldn’t work?
microSHIFT Shifters 3X7 Speed SB-R473 Trip Shift Lever Brake Derailleur Road Bike Bicycle Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011IL1EP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QXUVAbP1JQVHF

inexpensive brifters

(And that's brand-new; OP could probably find some used 3x7 brifters on Craigslist for $20 or so if he was patient enough.)

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

I used a Shimano kit on my wife's bike and a Jagwire kit on mine - both came with boots.

Shimano:
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Dura-Cable-Sleeve-Black/dp/B01F1GYYU4

Jagwire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4NJME/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a cable to remind you not to ride off with the !@#$ disc lock still on.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-340102-Disc-Lock-Reminder/dp/B0022ZN6M0

Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5EFOC/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

>https://www.amazon.com/microSHIFT-Shifters-SB-R473-Derailleur-Bicycle/dp/B011IL1EP4

These say 3x7 though...

If you don't already have one, you might consider a disc lock with an alarm. (And if you have a disc lock, don't forget the Disc Lock Reminder. Last thing you want to do is forget you have a disc lock on.)


If you already know all this, please disregard but otherwise:

Parking in Chicago has some advantages for being on a motorcycle. One is, all those Permit parking zones with the "you must have permit ### to park here"... Yea, we can ignore those and park there.

We're supposed to park 90 degrees to the curb.

Sometimes there is enough space between no parking zones, and metered parking zones that a motorcycle can fit an avoid paying for parking and not getting a ticket. Sometimes they get the ticket anyways and have to submit a picture to prove they weren't violating those areas. I've never done this, but seen plenty of examples here in Reddit.

I did not expect that your lever literally broke off. In my experience, most people who complain of broken shifters have either a bent derailleur hanger or really weirdly routed cables.

Those are simple thumb shifters that you have, and any community bicycle cooperative will have used ones for a dollar or two in a bin.

https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations

But they'll probably break the same way.

If you're out to spend minimal money and get something new and serviceable, here are a set of SunRace aluminum shifters. They're friction shifters, so they don't click into gear. Judging by the dials on your shifters not numbering the gears, I'd assume your current shifters do a micro-clicky motion when you change gears; the SunRace ones would be a more fluid motion.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLM10-Friction-Shifter-Set/dp/B007QMJH86