Reddit mentions: The best cable insertion & extraction tools

> How should I finish the ethernet cables?

Like another person said, use keystones. Don't use toolless as they are pretty crappy but just get a cheap punchdown tool and keystones for each room.
I would personally use a patch panel where the cables are going to be run to, but it wouldn't be necessary if you're only going to be running them how you initially explained.

> Can there be any conflict between the wifi of my router and the wifi of the APs?

There can, but they should be able to figure it out on their own. That said, if you're using APs (or WAPs as I call them at work, for Wireless Access Point, sorry about the change in terminology), you should just use a wired router instead of one with Wifi. No reason to add another component and interface to your situation.

> Good to know. From what I read, the usual setup is to have Ubiquiti controller installer on a computer running 24/7. So this is only for logging stats, is that right?

Pretty much. I don't think many people are running an actual computer 24/7 just for the software but do it if they have a server running 24/7 already, or just put it on a raspberry pi instead if they really need it.

> So all the APs get the same configuration? They are all configured with the same settings? No need to configure them differently?


> And if I set the SSID and the security for the APs to be the same as the one from my router wifi, everything will appear as one and only one network and there will be no waiting time from the time when I'm connected to one AP and get connected to another one while moving? Also, how will that switch from one AP to the other be done? Will it be automatic or no? Will it be the APs that will determine when to change one device from one AP to the other or the device itself that will "take de decision"?


Unless you want to do something different in a specific part of the house (i.e. guest access not everywhere) then yes. You just leave channels to auto, give every ap the same ssid, and you're devices will automatically switch freely among them. The devices make that decision, but the APs will sorta "help" determine when they should.

> What is a "WAP"? Also, if on the ceiling, I guess it should be in an open area rather than in the corner of a room? I would prefer to install them in the corner of a room in order to make them more "invisible", but I don't want to impact the wifi coverage/speed...

Sorry again, WAP is just what we call Wireless Access Points at work, because we have wired ports labeled Access Points as well. You can definitely install them on walls as well, but the devices are designed to radiate signals stronger in a specific direction. That is usually every direction but directly behind them, which means if you put it on a centrally located wall, the side of the house in front of it will have a stronger signal than the side behind it. You can place them closer to the edge of the house and be pretty good, but you might need to add an extra one to get as good of coverage.

> Do you think the new chip will be integrated in device shortly (the house will still be probably open until june...)?

No need to worry about that. The idea is to run as many cables in the walls as you'll ever need, so you can change tings like a router or APs super easily by just unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. I don't think they will be popular enough in devices by june to be worth getting yet. probably closer to 2 years.

> A PoE switch seems nice. What is there to look for when buying one?

Definitely. There's 2 types of PoE switches: passive and active. passive switches are cheap and will damage any device that gets plugged into it that doesn't work with the same voltage. Try to stay away from these. Active switches support either 802.1af or 802.1at. Basically you want to make sure your switch and AP support the same type of active PoE. You can plug in anything to these switches without worry. Yes, you'll want to install it right next to your router and run cables to all of your rooms that way.

> Do I need to have ventilation for a PoE switch? Also, there is some that get installed into a rack, but I think this is more for a "pro/business" installation. However, does a PoE switch can be wall mounted?

Don't think of them as "pro/business" models. You seem to be building a large modern house, and having everything centralized will make your life SOOO much easier. I have a much smaller house and have a 24 port switch in my garage. You can just sit it on top of something, or you can make a mini rack, like I did. Just bought a pair of these and secured them to a plate of aluminum. It has my router, a patch panel, and my house switch installed on it, and is sitting on a shelf, although when I get the time and drive I'll mount it to the wall with some shelf arms. As for ventilation, look for the temperature rating on them. The lowest max temp I've ever seen is 40°C/104°F so should be fine in a living space, but depending on where you live might not be in an attic or garage. That said, my garage gets about 115/120°F on the hottest days and I haven't had an issue with my swtich.

>In general, is it better to run distinct ethernet cables with a RJ45 jack on each end or to buy a full spool of ethernet cable and put a RJ45 manually to each end?

Just to reiterate, you want to attach keystones at the very least to the living space side, and either the same thing or a patch panel where they are being run to. Will give you a much more professional look than a hole with cables. People will see it and not notice it, as opposed to seeing it and thinking "they have a hole in their wall already!"

Wiring 101. Most of this other have covered.

1. Get a plan. Where is your head in, where do you want the jacks. Plan extra now. Need 1 either net, pull 2 wires, need 2, pull four, need four, pull six. 1 big switch is better than a bunch of little switches.
   
   
2. Pull at least cat-6. Cat 6a, or cat 7 is overkill.
   
   
3. The most expensive wire you will ever pull is the one that is 1 inch too short.
   
   
4. Inside walls are your friend, outside walls hate you. Stay away from stairs( lots of wood) Bath rooms, and kitchens will have extra pipes, be careful. Don't be afraid of cutting and patching dry wall, or oyu can be like me, and pay some one else to patch the drywall.
   
   
5. Running wires in the attic, great, use zip ties with a hole, and mount them at the peak. All the AC wire is on top of the rafters so you get separation; and the next guy up their will not stand on your cables.
   
   
6. Zip ties are great. Think gentle hug, not strangulation.
   
   
7. From the attic, you can see the top plate or drywall nailer. You will be going through 3 to 4.5" of wood, make sure your drill bit is that long.
   
   
8. For the device location cut in a Orange retro ring. See the four small holes on the corners. Hold the ring face to the wall, level it, make it even with the outlet, mark the four holes. Draw a line between the four little marks and cut. You did check for a stud before hand RIGHT. Single gang can fit 6 network connections, a double gang can fit 12.
   
   9)Use Keystone jacks, and a insert, and face plates in the field. 110 punch down in the closet. I would not recommend putting male ends on( BTW they are called 8P8C), use the jacks, face plates, and 110 punch down.
   
   
9. After the hole for the jack is cut, have some one lightly tap on the ceiling. You will be close, and you have plus or minus 14.5" to be in the same stud bay. Get a small thing of Pull string, Glow rods, and some electrical tape( go cheap, as cheap as you can find.
   
   
10. Some options for getting down the wall. No insulation, you can try to drop the wire straight down, tape the end of the wire onto a glow rod, put that end into the hole and push it down. Tie some small weights to the pull string and drop it down the hole. At the bottom, use a metal coat hanger, grid ceiling wire, or thicker steel wire to form hooks. Put a small hook on one end, and a 15 to 20 degree bend about 3 to 4 inch from the end. Don't be afraid to twist the hook arround to keep tension on the wire as you guiding it out.
    
    
11. Get a good punch down tool. Pick a or b, and stick with it.
    
    
12. Buy patch cables unless you need over 20 feet.
    
    
13. I would test with a laptop with a network port, go around and plug into each jack, just make sure you turn off the wifi first.
    
    
    
    
    
    

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO


Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

If you're already here asking the right questions I'm confident you can get through it.

I was expecting to have to spend a couple of hours getting the AP working the way I wanted, but the whole thing literally took five minutes. It was literally, make a user account and password, assign a vlan, click next a couple of times and that was it. There would be a little more to it if you're setting up a firewall and a switch as well, but it's pretty much as easy as it can be.

You will need something to run the Ubiquiti web interface on. They sell something called a cloud key for this, but you could also use a Raspberry Pi3, since they're cheaper and do the same thing. You could also run the Ubiquiti controller software on any Linux system that you have laying around.

As for the wiring itself, what I did was get a small wall-mounted rack, like this one. Then I ran the cables to a Cat 6 patch panel, like this. From the patch panel, I ran connections to my rackmount router and switches. I've basically only ever followed the bundle of snakes cabling model in the past, so it's satisfying to have everything nice and professional looking.

I used Cable Matters stuff for wall plates and keystone jacks, etc. You'll also need a spool of CAT6 Ethernet cable, and a punchdown tool. I have a 4-way wall plate near my workstation and another 2-way near my printers.

If you do run your own connections you will want to get a cable tester. I did create one bad punchdown and this tester found it no problem. There are lots of other testers out there and I'm sure nearly all would do the job.

Good luck!

I've done a decent amount a cabling over the last 20 years or so. the first few links I found on google aren't bad.

I'd definitely recommend having a fish tape or pull rod. Usually when I've done it in a home, I like to pull up from the basement (where I end up putting the patch panel every time I've done it) up to the attic before then running it to the upper floor rooms. I've used traditional wall plates using punch down connectors, but I think that now that they're available I would use a F/F wall plate so all you have to do is make an RJ-45 on the wall cable and plug it into the wall jack. Leave yourself an extra 12'-36" at either end of a pull (in the biz we call it a service loop, it gives you some extra play and lets you have plenty of length if you need to re-terminate).

Generally you want to use Solid cable in walls and Stranded to make patch cables, but for a home install it won't kill you to re-use the same cable for both. Plenum cable is for fire code, and generally you use it for runs in open ventilated drop tile ceilings.

Depending on how many runs you'll have and what you plan on doing, you might want a patch panel at the source of the runs. That lets you terminate the run on the panel and then makes it easier to label and re-connect things in the future. It's the more pro thing to do, but it's no the end of the world to terminate with an RJ-45.

Chances are pretty good that any switch you can get will be fine for your home needs. Even running a Plex server to a game console or streaming device you'll be fine. Only is you regularly want to move multi GB or TB files around will you see a difference between a Netgear desktop switch and a major Cisco monster (assuming that you won't have many connections and you don't need any of the more advanced features). The only feature that you may get some mileage out of is Power Over Ethernet (POE), which allows you to use some IP Phones and Wireless access points without a power adapter.

Yes I know, that's the one thing this thing offers lol, it's the only real tangible benefit you've been able to find to explain why it's 10x as much as an echo dot.

BTW these two tools will give you that same "hidden wires" benefit for a whole lot less money:

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Measuring-Klein-Tools-56005/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366334&sr=8-5&keywords=fishtape&dpID=51JR4coh8YL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-206-Jab-Wood-Handle/dp/B00002X21P/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366405&sr=8-6&keywords=drywall+saw&dpID=21Fk1DkuDxL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And then here are the actual mounts themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Built-Google-Home-Mount/dp/B078Z214QX

EDIT Whoops that's the home mini, I'm sure there's an echo dot equivalent though. Frankly if you don't already have these assistants in your home, I would highly recommend the google version, it's a whole lot more useful and intelligent than alexa.

I Love This Greenlee Drill/Tap set!

And of course my Wera Screwdriver Set. Makes dealing with terminals a breeze.

Everyone here seems to like Milwaukee power tools, but I have a Milwaukee drill/driver, but seriously, I prefer the 12V Bosch drill and impact driver. I was trying to use the brand new Milwaukee to drive a 1/4" lag bolt into my dock, and it stalled about 4 threads in. Grabbed the 8 year old Bosch, and drove it all 3 inches down without a sweat.

ETA: Something I only pull out once in a blue moon, but when I do need it, a good Fox and Hound is an absolute bloody necessity! I have that one for general wires, and my Fluke network test kit one for Coax/Copper Ethernet. I wish there was some way for someone to make one for fiber, but oh well, that's next generation physics.

I guess I should also say, the GreenLee Slug-Buster knockout set is amazing. No time spent trying to pop out slugs from the punches.

Oh, lord, I could go on...

Okay, one last one, sitting on my desk: a Brady printer. I can use that to print wire labels FAST (Real Fast), directly importing from a wire run list in a CSV format, but it also does legend plates, and pushbutton/switch plates. Godly.

Okay, I'm done.

No wait.. .One more, for instrumentation guys: Fluke 4-20mA Clamp on... LOVE IT

Okay, I'm really, REALLY Done

>this patch panel from Tripp-Lite

You can absolutely do it yourself. You'll just need a bladed punch down tool like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM to help with punching down the wires and chopping off the tips. It's tedious but not difficult. Other than that, follow the online recommendations for minimizing the untwist of the wire pairs, etc etc. It's all there online for you to read up on.

You also want to ensure the wiring scheme is consistent between the wall jacks and the patch panel, so you'll want to take off one of the wall plates and confirm if the wiring is 568B to the keystone jack like the patch panel you plan to use.

​

With all that said I would wait and see what Webpass recommends. They may have better ideas or do some of the work for you. You're certainly not the first person there who needed to redo that closet.

Sorry if I'm confusing you. I'm pretty jacked up on coffee right now haha.

So yes, tone each port on that panel before you remove the wires with this Tool. After you have each blue cat 5 labeled, not the grays, you can save the grays to patch between the switch and the new panel actually, you use your punch down to pull the wires out with the hook part. With everything out, repunch the wires into the patch panel, making sure the pattern matches whats on the wall plate. A punch down tool like this one is nice but not required, to get the wires into the terminals. These are nice because it takes off the excess wire, but a knife can do this fine as well.

As for your last question. I would run up the studs if you could. Then you have a nice plate at the end at the wall. You could even get a multi port jack so you can plug all your items into that and have those go into a separate vlan on the switch.

First, do it now, while its not to hot/cold. running cable in the attic in the summer sucks. you kinda need 2+ people to run cable. it can be done solo, but that brings in so many more complications, beer for buddy. so yeah, like /u/xmangusx said, you don't want electronics up in the attic, top of a closet should be ok, somewhere a little more climate controlled. i haven't run cable in residential in a long time, but did do up a new floor of a building, and work at a datacenter, so take the numbers as a rough guide.
even if you think you want just 1 jack in each spot, run 4 cables to each room. alot easier to run a bundle of four now, then to go back and add in cabling later, even if you just let the bare end dangle behind the drywall. below is some suggested parts:
1000FT Cat 6 Bulk Bare Copper ethernet cable

4 hole keystone wall plate

cat6 punchdowns

keystone blank plates

electrical box

punchdown tool

network cable tester

24port patch panel will work in 19inch rack

wire line puller

pull string

so 1 blue box, 1 wall plate, a few blanks ( as desired # of ports) per room. start in somewhere a little less important like say the laundry room, or a closet, so you can get a hang of using the drywall knife to cut the hole, how big it needs to be etc. you will want to be near ( but not to close give liek 6 inches) to an electrical outlet if you can. use a studfinder, it should be where the electrical outlet is ( which side is the box on). find where the electrical cable comes through the 2x4, move over enough to account for stud width plus a little fudge factor, and drill a small hole, maybe 1/4 inch, just big enough to get the end of the fish line through. cut small hole in drywall near the electrical outlet ( opposite the stud) start with maybe 2 inch by 2 inch, will need to be bigger later for the box. run the fish down from attic through the stud hole you drilled, behind the drywall, and find it in the small hole cut. attach pull string to it, and pull it back, and keep pulling the pull string all the way back to central location. repeat till have all holes cut, lines run. now you will have a pretty good idea if you will need 1 or more cat6 1000ft spindles.

the hard part is going to be getting around in the attic, and simply finding a way to get from point a to be with the cable, creative use of a drill bit will be necessary. the punchdown blocks that go into the plates are color codes, do all A or B throughout the house, don't mix-n-match ( B is more common ), and is color coded. only will need a crimper, ends, is if you want to custom make the cables going from patch panel to switch, hint just buy 20 or whatever of appropriate length cables premade from monoprice, like $1 each.
expect 2 people who have never done this before, this to take more than 1 weekend.

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

Cat 5e unless your PS4 is capable of 10Gbs-1! Its cheap and dependable and most back boxes are designed for it. The e is important but it is quite unlikely that you will find only Cat5 which is only rated up to 100Mbs-1. If you only need one then run two and leave a foot or so in the wall at each end for the extra cable, just in case. If I was you I'd run three cables and terminate two of them and keep one as a spare coiled up in the back of the back box.

I assume US and let's see what Amazon.com offers. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wall+port+ethernet+2+port&qid=1565562692&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ahh, it looks like you lot insist on Cat6 and have huge wall plates. So I'll change my suggestion to Cat6. Make sure you run an extra cable and don't stress them too much when you are laying them, especially when pulling through a hole, it is easy to kink them and try to use brute force to fix the problem. Buy solid core cable (not stranded) which is designed to work with "keystone jacks".

You'll need this tool https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-protecting-jacket-Multi-Function-Ethernet/dp/B01FHBZJ20/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ethernet+punch+down+tool&qid=1565563203&s=gateway&sr=8-12 to make the connections. You can practice on some off cuts of cable before going live. The hook on the tool makes it easy to pull the wires back out from the back of a jack. There are a lot of videos on the web about doing all this stuff.

Just recently bought this punchdown tool and this crimp tool kit and successfully created my first cat5e connection to a wall plate. Other than watching a few YouTube videos a few dozen times each, it was pretty painless.
Highly recommend a cable tester to confirm both ends are properly wired.
You can probably cheap out on the tools because you won't need to use them more than once or twice.
You can definitely do it.

If you ever decide to splurge on a bag get a Veto Pro Pac Tech-LC it really is a great bag for electricians. The tech-LC version has nice wide pockets on the back where you can fit meters, toners, p-touch labelers ect.

Veto Pro Pac TECH-LC Tool Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AK1ZHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j2tSDbXZJ4NFG

Edit: and also look into fluke stuff they really make amazing tools for low voltage work! Like this:

Fluke Networks 11291000 Pro-Tool Kit IS40 with Punch Down Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VB04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y9tSDb3RX2TZV

While you can get good punches with those, you need to make sure your keystone is on a good solid surface, and press down cleanly and smoothly; make sure not to "rock" the tool from side to side as it might crimp or otherwise damage the wire. (A keystone "stand" might help) Your keystone should also have come with a protector which you should use immediately as it helps seat the wire as well.

If you expect to do this regularly, the investment in a real 110 punch-down tool is worth it. I'm a huge fan of the comfort-grip Fluke, but there are many other brands which will do just as good of a job for a quarter of the price (they're just not as comfortable or feature-packed).

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FGWPK2/
Fluke Comfort Punch: $70

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/
TrendNet 110 Punch: $17

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008NXK3NU/
Keystone Stand: $6

IMO a 110/66 punch-down tool is the only cabling tool a networker still needs in her bag.

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

"Fishing tape" is more like a hard, but flexible wire that is used for fishing. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Fish-Tape-Reel-Communication/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=zg_bs_6396129011_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8KQSF2EQ0B0MFT14W9F

"Fishing pole/rod" is more like a hard, semi-flexible fiberglass rod. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=zg_bs_6396129011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8KQSF2EQ0B0MFT14W9F

Sometimes you want one or the other.

As requested, here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

Earlier this year I got myself the Ideal 30-495 FT-45 Feed-Thru Mod Plug crimp tool. Such a time saver.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VLDWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_09rQDbJM27GKP

As an added bonus it fits perfectly in the slot for the punch-down tool in my Fluke Pro-Tool kit (I usually know which I'll need before going up the ladder)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_PcsQDbMDSB16B

well you're lucky you have the "trust" style floor joists. Many people have either just old school 2 x 12" or the engineered I beam style joists and with those you're SOL on fishing wire through.

​

What I'd recommend is getting a fish tape wire reel kit and not the "stick kits". So depending on how far you have to go and ease of use, this tape reel kit will be easier to use.

There's some good instructional videos on Youtube if you search for it. My walls were a bit of a pain, but definitely well worth it in the end.

Here's my tool list that I'd recommend:

• Fish Tape
  
• Pull kit, this is optional
  
• Network Termination Kit
  
• Tape

The stripping tools you can get cheap, and don't really impact ease of use, just make sure the blade is set to the correct depth as to not damage the pairs but deep enough to break the outer jacket. You can get cheap crimpers off Amazon but they aren't the nicest to use. I'm sure you can settle with them if you are just doing your own house, but doing bettering as part of my job, certainly would recommend a proper punch down tool (such as this style and not the cheapies online.

A network tester like this one doesn't cost much and might help you diagnose the issue. It can test if a link is working if you plug it in at each end, and you can also use them to send a signal through the link which the other piece can detect from nearby. Pretty useful if you ever need to suss out the location of a cable through a wall or something.

Imo the most likely case is that the connection at one or more of the ends has become broken. You should be able to fix that rather easily yourself. Google "RJ45 wall jack installation" for more info on that. You would need a punch down tool for that.

The advice given to get an Edgerouter + Unifi AP will likely service you the best in the long run. However you should strongly consider hard wiring any device you can. This will likely give you the greatest performance increase regardless of the hardware you decide using.

It's much cheaper than you may have anticipated. There's many ways to do this but here are a couple options:

OPTION #1
100ft finished Cable $12.99
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Gigabit-Ethernet-Snagless-Connector/dp/B016A913LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=100ft+cat6&qid=1551089563&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


OPTION #2
Create your own Cable with the following supplies

Raw CAT6 Cable 100ft = $18.90
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Copper-Outdoor-Resistant-Syston/dp/B079H3BKGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=100ft+cat6&qid=1551089731&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Punchdown Tool = $9.99
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=Punchdown+tool&qid=1551090195&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Keystone Jack (x2) = $9.80
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BLWX3Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

CAT6 Patch Cable = $2.89
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-27141-Snagless-Unshielded-Network/dp/B00008KA6Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Patch%2BCable%2BCat6&qid=1551090947&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1


HOW TO
https://youtu.be/0gxNZoPcnP4

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

My house was all Cat 3 6 home runs to the exterior. I replaced it all with solid core Cat 6 and added two runs for wireless access points in the ceiling. It was a PITA. I home ran the new stuff to a network enclosure box I added.

Cat 3 is junk I've seen it send 100Mb or more inside a house but if you ever have to troubleshoot issues your wires will always be the unknown.

As others have said you can never plan on just pulling new cat 6 behind the cat 3 it works like 10% of the time thanks to staples. So if you accept that you are cutting drywall and learning to fix those numerous holes then it's a much more realistic job. Basically everytime I got a snag I got the drywall saw out. Transitioning floors can be tricky but not impossible again cut the drywall.

Here are the best tools for the job. Flexibile long drill bit was a major cheat once I started using it. Fishing tape is a waste of the time except for conduit in my opinion use the fiberglass sticks I linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=drill+extension+wire&qid=1564611470&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=psdc_6396129011_t3_B07F2LWVDV

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12ICHMNHKXEGF&keywords=drywall+saw&qid=1564611505&s=gateway&sprefix=drywall+saw%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-4

Crimper:
Fluke Networks 11212530 Modular Crimper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VAXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oK1TDbHF8JB1F

Combo kit with stripper, lineman's snips and punchdown tool:
Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sL1TDbK5ZHW73

I've had my Fluke tools for years. Dropped, lost, dropped again and have never had an issue

Klein Tools is also a great brand for low-volt/Telecom tools

Edit: ideally, you should really never be crimping ends for production use. Horizontal cabling should never terminate with RJ45 modular plugs and instead terminate to keystone jacks on both ends of the run and patching should be done on both sides with high quality pre-made patch cords. You’ll save yourself a ton of heartburn this way.

> Now, do I need a specified keystone for solid cat6 as opposed to stranded?

most keystones are designed for solid cable, because they assume that solid is what you run in the walls. Stranded is for patch cables, and should not really be run in the walls.

I just get these in whatever colors I want when I need them, and I use this punchdown tool, and it works perfectly.

I bought this kit which is admittedly pretty pricey, but all of the tools are excellent quality. You can get just the punch down tool here for $55 (get the one that just comes with the 110 blade).

Punching down is simple. Buy a Cat6 Patch Panel, and something like this for punching down. It's pretty straight forward just pick a standard (A or B on the jack/patch panel) and stick with it.

As far as your den - can you run a cable to the den from where you patch panel will be? You said there's already a cable there so if you have attic access or basement access and can follow the route of the other cable you could just use it as a pull string of sorts if it isn't stapled inside the wall. If not then wireless would be your option I'd think.

Battery backup on the rack for your servers.

Scratch the pre-maid cat cables and just learn crimp your own cabling.


Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p7Q2AbHFZP2YW

Network Cable Repair Maintenance Tool Kit Set 11 in 1 Portable Phone Cable Crimper 8P8C 4P4C 6P6C Connectors RJ45 RJ11 Cat5 Cat6 Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756SN86D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o5Q2AbBW77GFT

I also recommend an anti-static mat if you are a builder:

StarTech.com 24x27.5-Inch Desktop Anti-Static Mat M3013 (Beige) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009XT3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e9Q2AbGZVFVJ2

If this is a builder workbench I would also recommend a good surge strip:

Bestten 12 Outlet Heavy Duty Workshop Metal Power Strip Surge Protector, 15-Foot Long Extension Cord, ETL Certified, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MY384H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l-Q2AbTXDXJAX

Lastly, how is your lighting in the room?

Here is my way to do this as cheaply as I'd feel comfortable doing (note, not as cheaply as possible).

I'd put a new switch in the new office and use cat5 cable to connect to the existing switch. I'd install the new switch in a wall mount rack, and install a wall mount patch panel in the rack. I'd terminate all stations in the new office to the patch panel. The inter-office connection should be terminated to this new panel, and the other side terminated to a panel there or surface mount jack if no panel available. The number one piece of advice for a novice is do not run the cables directly to the switches or computers. Cables should be terminated to a jack or patch panel.

• $37 Wall mount bracket
  
• $24 24 port patch panel
  
• ~$1 Various length patch cords
  
• ~$1+ Various surface mount boxes
  
• $1.25 Keystone Jacks
  
• $65 1000ft of bulk cable
  
  If you don't have tools already I highly recommend you splurge a little here. I know it seems stupid "I'm only going to use it once!!". Trust me, buying decent tools can cut your install time in half or more. This $50 kit is what you need. It's extremely important to get and use the cable stripper (SureStrip in that kit). If you knick the inner cable while stripping the outer jacket on Cat5 you pretty much have to start all over. You don't really need an impact tool, that kit comes with a non-impact tool. If you have a few extra $$ go ahead and get one for about $20.
  
  For a switch, maybe Dell. We've used them in non critical areas in our enterprise, and they work fine and reliably. You mentioned PoE - unfortunately PoE switches are nearly 2x the cost of non PoE. With your tight budget, I suggest using PoE injectors. Here is a 4 port for $60 and a one port for $24

If you have interior walls are on studs and not insulated, running the wires down the walls will be much easier (since you are already going into the attic). Plus you don't have buy more expensive cable, worry about making sure the wound you put in the outside of the house is sealed appropriately to be weatherproof.

You'll need to drill a small hole in the header of the wall from the attic. If the wall isn't insulated then just drop the cable down the opening and grab it from where you make the cutout for your Ethernet faceplate/keystone jack. If you go all uninsulated walls, you'll just need a drill and standard tools. If a wall is insulated, a fish tape will be helpful. Just use your stud finder to make sure that you don't have a fire block in that stud cavity as that presents additional challenges.

Now if you have brick/cement walls, that does present another challenge.

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

My favorite tool from when I used to run cables (the thing has reasonably good range, too)

Either use /u/steebo's suggestion of a vacuum at the other end, or get yourself a fish tape which is a really great tool for fishing cable down long distances. The "tape" is metal so it's easy to push, but also bends easily so it can make it around bends in conduit.

I found this tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG that says it has a “BK blade.” From the pictures the BK looks exactly like a Krone blade to me though and after googling I wasn’t able to find any other tools with BK blades. Is it safe to assume it’s just Krone with a different name?

It's an art- it's helpful if you're familiar with how a building of that era and type is constructed. You can start at the top and drop down, or start at the bottom and push up with a fiberglass fishing rod, or drop a pull-string or fishing tape and pull the Ethernet up, or some combination therof.

Given my house, I'll probably try to drop a string down from the attic and pull ethernet up. If I get lucky I can use the same string to pull from the basement to the first floor livingroom too.

I'm lucky, there's a basement under the first floor and an attic above the second. For people on a slab or 3-story builds there's often little choice other than to go on-wall or do some significant drywall cutting.

I once had to notch drywall and right-angle drill studs for a 30ft length of wall because the client needed drops all along the space and it had to be in-wall. Slab construction and an open ceiling = nowhere to go. Drywall guy bought me a case of beer :D

Here are some ways to do this:

Easiest/cheapest/laziest:

• Get some string and run it from the router to your unit in a path that is acceptable. Measure the string and buy an outdoor rated patch cable that's long enough. Run the cable and secure it with staples designed for holding wire(you want the low voltage wire staple gun/staples)
  
  Slightly better/more professional:
  
  
• Buy some bulk outdoor Cat6 cable
  
• Buy a pair of RJ45 surface mount boxes and a (punchdown tool)[https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa)
  
• Install a surface mount jack near the router, and one in your unit
  
• Run the bulk cable between the jacks and use the punchdown tool to terminate the ends. Be sure to follow the same color code on each end
  
• Use a (cable tester)[https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Network-Tester-Ethernet/dp/B072LJYHKP/ref=sr_1_9] to make sure you have a good connection on every pair
  
• Plug a patch cable between the jack and the router, and another one between your jack and your access point
  
  Best/cleanest/most professional:
  
  
• Same as above, but run the wires inside the walls and use keystone jacks mounted inside gang boxes

That's way overkill for the home gamer. I have this one, and it works great.

Ok so here's my list of stuff. Please tell me if I'm off on anything.

Speaker wire

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-G-2-bulk-speaker-cable/dp/B000F1X6GE

Subwoofer cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003P63SP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795218&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+cable

Fishing tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0026TBOU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795375&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fish+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=415cJ-VZ12L&ref=plSrch

I've already got the rear speakers, subwoofer and mounts.

this is a good start. I dont own this set but it does look nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-11293000-IS60-Pro-Tool/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1331522014&sr=1-1

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

This is more fun.

If you plan to do wireless access points you can use a poe switch to power them. With a managed switch rebooting the access point is as easy as turning the port on and off from the switch management. Always run 2 cables at least to each location. You will always find more things to plug in.

You will need a punch down tool for the keystones. Also to make it correct you should have a patch panel at the switch location to terminate the cables. punch down tool
Patch Panel
Patch Panel mounting bracket

The best way to connect it up so that you have Internet is to get a switch with enough ports to handle all of the jacks, and then wire patch cables coming off of each one of the cables going into that block. You will need a punch down tool ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2sgzbNSBBEK7) a rj45 crimper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5PT7G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R3sgzb0GCQ5SN) some rj45 connectors ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5sgzb3KQHCC8) and some CAT5 cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034XBFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6sgzb9E3ZTQ4). You strip the wires on both sides. One side gets punched down onto the block (make sure that the colors match) and the other side is terminated with a rj45 connector (make sure that the cable is long enough to reach your switch!). Once they are all terminated, you plug them into the switch, and have your switch hooked up to your Internet modem, and then all of the jacks will have Internet access.

Nope, I ran it all myself. The longest run was from my basement to the attic. From the attic, I drilled down from the top stud into the wall of a closet. I cut open the wall of the closet and installed an access panel like this when I was done instead of patching it (so I can get in there later if I need to). From the closet, I drilled down through the floor stud inside the wall. Then my basement has a drop ceiling, so it was easy to route it down to where my media closet is. I used a fish tape to run the cable.

I don't have any construction background, but it was easy to learn from watching YouTube tutorial videos. If you're not up for doing it yourself, you can hire an electrician (expensive) or you can usually find A/V installers who can do low voltage runs through your walls for cheaper.

Fish Tape can be very useful too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_O1ttzb9JZR2EK

I like the tennis ball idea. I have something called a cable caster that I use. Think of a fishing reel mounted on a dart gun. The line ties to the "dart" and goes a good ways too.
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/dp/B001HWAGRM

Something like this would mount into a rack. You would take those cables and punch the wire into the back of the panel in the link above, similar to your existing setup.

Also, this is a punch down tool.

Klein Tools 56005 1/4-Inch Fish... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TBOU8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, I didn’t want to risk removing the boot. $10 was worth piece of mind.

You may want to invest in a cheap punch down tool. It’ll make sure the wire is punched correctly and trim off the extra so it doesn’t get pulled out or cause a short somehow.

The jack appears to be wired correctly so as long as you can verify that you in fact have both ends of the wire I don’t see any reason why it shouldn’t work.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

If you can hide the cable the whole run under carpet. Getting past the archway will be easy with a fish tape https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56001-Strength-50-Foot/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480647857&sr=8-3&keywords=fish+tape With ribbon cable https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480648036&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+network+cable+100ft you wont even feel it under the carpet when standing on it.

If you have multiple access points you could try something like this...

Greenlee 06186 Cablecaster Wire Pulling Tool With Three Darts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWAGRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QZimDbNW0HWEF

It might limit the time you spend in the space?

they are also spring loaded, like a nail punch. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blades/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377055017&sr=8-3&keywords=punchdown+tool

If it's the rods you screw together, we call it a fish rod. if it's the metal strip that rolls up into a unit with a handle, we call it a fish tape. There was a special fish rod that was green nylon that glowed in the dark and we called it the glow rod.

Yeah, it was sort of a hacky way to do it. At this point, I'll likely buy some keystone jacks and redo it (since I also bought a punchdown tool already).

Here, have a wire pulling gun to cheer you up

amazon + paladin

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-4909-SureStrip-Non-Impact-Punchdown/dp/B0008F5VA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1323570620&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Otherwise you're into the 200+ range.

You could do a through/in wall cable pass through/s. There are lots of options for diffrent types. some go through into the next room, some just go into the wall with the intention of running the cables through the wall to another receptacle that is placed lower or higher.

The hardest part will be getting the cables routed through the wall. You could use a wire fish to get them trough. I'd recommend running a cable pull (a pice of thin nylon rope), t hat can be left in place, in case you need to run additional wires latter on.

I personally do not like that crimper. I have used the blue one (they are our shitty throw around tools at work), and I personally much prefer the orange one. I like the ratchet action better.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0008F5VA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1376270954&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
Try this:

For drop ceilings and low voltage cable, fish sticks are absolutely the way to go. Also zip ties. There's also this guy. Looks fun, but I can't say I've ever actually used it.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

Buy some glow rods:
33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tGuhAb26GG3VD

I've only ever used these ones

They get the job done.

a punch down tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463364132&sr=8-4&keywords=punch+down+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

or

https://www.amazon.com/Fish-Impact-Electric-Communication-Puller/dp/B0025Z81BS

then it is for phone. You may get a patchpanel, remove the wiring from the phone panel, and use a punch tool to connect it to the ethernet patch panel. You would need to run power to that location and connect each patch panel port to the switch/router that you locate there.

Note: this only works if all 8 wires were connected in the wall sockets. If there are only 2 of the 8 connected, redo them.

Punch tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHBZJ20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

Patch panel: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495168315&sr=1-4&keywords=patch+panel

I did the same in my apartment last weekend. There was already a patch panel for ethernet, but all wiring was connected to the phone panel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=DdRVS&pf_rd_r=C744MBRXWY16CSB4HHTV&pd_rd_i=B0026TBOU8&pd_rd_w=fGzeL&pd_rd_r=a9255a04-57b1-4447-9aa1-5bea4fee238a&ie=UTF8&qid=1550616178&sr=1

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

punch down tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Network-Punch-Impact-Blades/dp/B01E58M5EG/ref=zg_bs_6396135011_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86ZM49GHXCDNAYTMCYNQ

Fish tape. Klein Tools 56001 1/8-Inch Wide Steel Fish Tape, 50-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3U0LAbR43RGS9

Vastar Network Wire Punch Down Impact Tool with Two Blades - 110 and BK & Network Wire Stripper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7DDtybSHVADW5


This is the tool I have.

That'll work, but I would get this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

I'd guess a hole punch kit for making holes in sheet metal. Today they are used mostly for making holes in electrical panels to install conduit fittings.

Here is a modern example.

A fish tape reduced my wire-related cursing substantially.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LW4CFG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it is a non load bearing interior wall it is very possible there is no stud. Code was very different when that house was built. Studs will not always be 16 inches on center. At the same time, stud finders rarely work on plaster and lath walls.

Do this. Go to where you want the center of the TV mount to be. Drill 2, 1/4 inch holes or so into the wall at as steep of an angle as you can (60 degrees or so) and drill them in opposite directions. Then, get some wire fish fiberglass rods, and stick them in the wall going in both directions and see if you hit something. Click these links below

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch-x-33-ft-fiberglass-wire-running-kit-65326.html

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

If you can slide the rods in and go in say 13 inches and you hit something, chances are that is your stud. From there mark the rod, pull it out, and then hold the rod flush against the wall and mark your stud. From there, get an 1/8 inch drill bit and drill a series of holes of where you think the stud is. And you can usually map it out that way.

I used to work for a high end AV/HIFI company and installed countless flat screens. That is how I always did it.

If you have ports around your house, I would start by buying a cable tracer and tester kit like this.

You appear to have an OnQ 1x12 telecom system in place in that cabinet which is for phones only and an OnQ network interface panel. So the OnQ 1x12 part isn't useful for you, but you could use the OnQ network interface part and a switch to make this work. You will need a 110 punch down tool will have to do some rewiring though.

Edit: changed comment after noticing it was an OnQ system.

> fishsticks

Are you referring to these?

Sorry not familiar with the term.

Get a patch panel something like this. Pull the cables off the 66 block that you want to convert from phone use to data/network use. Punch them down on this patch panel with a punchdown tool. Use factory-made ethernet patch cords to connect from the patch panel to your switch. You don't need crimpers.

All of the above, plus a few usb thumb drives.

A copy of any os you expect to work on as you can almost guarantee that the customer does not have a copy. (set up a seperate usb drive to install each os).

A few known good parts also helps. (cheap graphics card for systems with no integrated graphics, a spare power supply to allow you to insure nothing else is damaged if a psu goes bad (had that happen to me, psu and graphics, just didn't know about the graphics till after replacing the psu and felt stupid "yeah your psu was bad, but your graphics card is bad also...")

If you are doing mobile repairs (at customers location), then a laptop and internet access (from your phone hotspot or separate hotspot never count of the customer to have internet access).

If you are going to be running new network cable then a:

wall fish I prefere the fiber glass rods for running across attics or drop ceilings over the metal tape unless you will be running in conduit (but in conduit I prefer jetline and compressed air for that).

strong magnet, and a chain (you can buy it by the foot from hardware stores)(small links, 10ft of Sash Chain is what I use. (tape the wire to the chain with electrical tape, drop the chain down the wall, use the magnet to locate it, a strong magnet will slap the chain to the inside of the wall, and pull the chain to the whole for the outlet then pull the wire through)

I bought an electrician’s fish tape and attached my endoscope to that with tape. Makes it more rigid so you can jam it around the ridges in those drain pipes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IzOCDbV9AVQ4Z

Closest thing I could find to what we used but ours wasn't as good as this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HWAGRM?pc_redir=1409578671&robot_redir=1

Leatherman - Charge TTI

Fluke Networks MS2-KIT

JackRapid Punchdown Tool

Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool or similiar

a set of crimpers (can't find a good set at the moment)

network ends, cable, wall plates etc.

something a lot of people dont realize in new homes: All your phone jacks, that likely go to the same wiring panel as anything else would, most of the time those phone jacks were ran with Cat5e or Cat6. From there you just buy a 110 block punch down tool (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM), some keystones https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW, and some plates, and start re-purposing those phone jacks you dont need.

This. Fish tape will be a pain because it will get caught on every wood lath. If you can tie to an existing cable line do it. If not I would get rods like these.

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

If its an interior wall it may not have insulation. Then you can tie a heavy nut to a string and lower it down.

OP! That tester you are looking at will only check that the cables are installed without flipped or crossed pairs, and that there isn't a break somewhere. To do an actual performance tests on the cables you'd need this, or something similar...and you'd probably never use it again in your life. As it's more than ten times the cost of your install, I'd say it's not worth it.

That said, don't buy that POS you're looking at. Buy this. Paladin sucks. Buy the Ideal kit and it will serve you well until the day you die.

Ok, so looking over your pictures I have good news. You should be able to call a company that does actual communication's wiring and simply have them move that rack mount up 1.5 feet or so and re-terminate, and be done with it. It's at most 4 hours of work for a skilled tech. I could do it in less than 3. So..that's about $400 max, perhaps way less depending on where you live.

If that is a bit of a steep price you could buy this (DON'T BE CHEAP, GET THAT KIT!) and do it yourself no problem. You could then also pop open the face plates and repair the jacks if need be, because they are probably not terminated properly either based on what I see here. I could be wrong. Can you post an image of a jack side termination?

Now, is any of this strictly necessary? Probably not. The outer jacket on standard cat 6 is not doing very much over that short of a distance. Your twist density is maintained, and that's what's paramount. That said, properly terminating a patch panel can be an enjoyable and rewarding experience, and I think you should give it a try.

Also, residential runs are short (short = high performance), and cat 6 is excessive for most users needs. Cat 5e preforms at gigabit, do you have anything with a more than gigabit network port? Neither do most of the commercial customers my industry sells shielded cat 6a installs to...but that's another topic entirely. Anyway, proper terminations on both ends and nothing majorly screwy going on with the install as a whole and you have an excellent (excessive actually) home Ethernet system for the life of the building.

BTW, was this a commercial install it would have cost you a minimum of *$***7200** where I live...so you are getting a hell of a deal, even with residential cable being cheaper and these AV clowns having fucked the dog on the panel termination, kind of. But if they didn't kill the cable with metal staples for some reason, or bend the ever loving hell out of it for some reason, it should preform as is and if not with at best a days work a professional can bring it up to spec, maybe two days if you do it yourself.

I keep looking this over. It's a huge wall of text that says everything is probably fine, but you should fix it anyway. That is my final answer.

Paying someone to run Ethernet is a huge waste of money. Even with buying all the tools and supplies yourself you will save lots of money.

In your situation I would go up into the attic then run down into the walls to your wall jacks.

Stuff you'll need: (not including drywall saw and gang boxes/gang frames to mount the wall jacks)

http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network- Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464334&sr=1-2&keywords=rj45

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-19958-Steel/dp/B0017RAHSA /ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464421&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+fish

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/jacks-and-connectors/cat5e-keystone-jacks-25-packs

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/wall-plates/classic-keystones- wall-plates

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457464708&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=110+punch+down&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464781&sr=1-5&keywords=cat5

For around $165.00 you'll have everything you need. Less if you need less than 1000' of cable.

It's true that the cable I listed is not plenum rated but you're not going to be in the attic if your house is on fire anyway. I wouldn't worry about it or waste the money on it.

I've installed hundreds of miles of cat5 in my earlier career before switching to sysadmin stuff.

I did find this

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/product-reviews/B001HWAGRM

But videos show it's weak. Can't get more than 15' from it and it looks crappy.