Reddit mentions: The best camera lens filter sets

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

As most people here have mentioned, paper is going to be the easiest to deal with for solid colors. The best thing about paper is that if you scuff, crinkle, or tear it, you just cut off that section and unroll it some more. It's cheap enough to not worry about, and super-easy to work with. No cleaning (like vinyl), and no worrying about permanent footprints. A 36-foot roll of paper in most colors will run you about $40 for 53" or $60 for 107" width. You mentioned groups, so I'd recommend a 107" roll to avoid running out of room. 53" is really just for individuals, groups, and pets or products. Here are a few other things to consider:

Are you always shooting at home, or does your backdrop need to be mobile?

I have two sets of triple-rollers set up in my studio. They can be found for around $70 on Amazon, and can be wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted. Each set lets me mount 3 different rolls, and I have one set for 53" rolls and one for 107" rolls. If I want to switch colors, I just pull on the chain to raise one and lower another. To swap out a color, it only takes a couple of minutes.

For mobile situations, get yourself a backdrop crossbar and a pair of light stands. If you only use them once in a while, you can again find them on Amazon for around $40. But if you plan to use them consistently, I'd recommend getting something sturdier. Westcott makes a really nice 13-foot stand for around $80 each (you'll need two), and their crossbar is around $90, though some cheaper crossbars can be found for roughly half that. You can spend less on a smaller stand, but I wouldn't recommend it; anything smaller or cheaper loses a lot of stability. These stands will last you forever, are still cheap enough to not worry about it too much, and are fully usable as actual light stands in case you decide to start working with off-camera lighting later.

Safety

I'd also recommend 2-3 sandbags for each stand to reduce the risk of someone kicking them over. We live in a litigious country; don't get sued. You can buy empty sandbags pretty cheap (about $20 for 4 on Amazon) and then fill them with $5, 50-lb bags of playground sand from your local hardware store.

How are you using your backdrop?

For either of these scenarios, you'll need some way to keep the background down, as it tends to curl. Your local hardware store carries simple spring clamps for about a buck apiece, and 3-4 of those at each corner and in the middle will keep things stable. I'd recommend picking up a few extras as they're crazy-cheap, and great for keeping your backdrop from unrolling if you aren't using a roller system with resistance.

If you're looking for something seamless, you should also consider a roll of gaffers tape (or blue painter's tape, if you're trying to save money) to keep your paper on the floor, in case you want to create a sweep. In case you aren't familiar with this term, a sweep is where the background makes a rounded, 90-degree turn at the floor, resulting in a seamless background with no "corner". It's how you get those images where your subject is isolated against a background.

What it'll cost you, total

All-told, your total cost for this setup (doing it "right") is going to run you about $300 for your supports (including clamps, tape, sandbags, etc.), or about $100 if you go with the wall/ceiling mount. Paper rolls aren't included in this. This is about as cheap as it gets to do it "right", unless you're looking at an entirely DIY solution... at which point the price can drop to 1/10th of that.

Alternatives to paper rolls

If you're looking for more interesting backgrounds, you have three main options:

• dyed muslins
  
• printed/painted muslins or vinyl
  
• gelled lighting on white paper with a spare flash
  
  Dyed muslins will start at about $40-60 and look like these. Printed or painted ones (muslin fabric or vinyl start at $60-100 and go up from there. But if you have a spare flash, you can pick up the Rosco Strobist Collection of gels on Amazon for between $10 and $20, and then have any color background you want, with a nice, smooth gradient. You can toss it on a backward-pointing light stand behind your subjects, or backlight the backdrop from behind. Note that your camera and flash will need to support wireless triggering to do this, or you'll need some radio triggers.
  
  What you get out of your setup depends on what you put into it
  
  You can do some really interesting things with just a simple white backdrop. The biggest factor is going to be how much time you put into learning how to use it. Here's a post to get you started. Note that this article also has a link at the end to a second article about how to create interesting backgrounds using random objects in front of the flash. Definitely a good read.
  
  Good luck! :-)

Mavic Pro Platinum. The newer, quieter edition.

I had a P3S, so for range and GPS accuracy, it was an incredible upgrade for me. Not at all sure about the P3A. But I can say this, I've had my Mavic out almost two miles and while I was in the desert with open skies, I had not a single glitch in my video feed. When returning to home, it puts itself on the spot pretty close to perfectly.

Camera though, the news is not so good. Even my P3S camera was superior to the Mavic's. Better colors, no glitches and no fisheye. The Mavic has this tic that happens from time to time in the camera, like something flicked it. It might just be mine, and I can live with it, but it never happened with my P3S. The Mavic lens is tiny, there is a very slight but noticeable fisheye effect to its videos that the P3S didn't have. The video is washed out and useless without a decent set of filters. I routinely fly with an ND16. I also use the True Color profile and up the saturation slightly to get something approaching what video looked like out of the box on my P3S with an ND4. You can use D-Log and do post processing if you want pretty great results (from what I am able to gather on YouTube), but I just do not have the patience for that.

All in all, I needed a drone that wouldn't lose the video feed everytime a house got between me and it (P3S truly sucks for video feed) that can take competent pictures and photos, and the Mavic definitely fits that bill. The other bonus is that it is much easier to carry around/get in the air and attracts MUCH less attention than the P3S - the difference in size and sound alone makes it worth it to me.

I've only worked with go pros on one job, but I was able to set the exposure manually and use ND filters like these to get the shutter speed where I wanted it. Overall, though, I've never been able to get footage I really liked out of a go pro.

Here's a quick video on why you might want to be mindful of your shutter speed.

Just for fun, check out this video about climbing. Obviously this is more of a narrative than you were going for, but it's still useful to look at the variety of shots they use to tell the story and how they tie it all together in a similar amount of time.

Good luck! I don't know what your budget is for a new camera but I recommend the Sony a6300 or a7s/a7sii if you can afford it. Incredible cameras. Here is another one minute video posted to r/videography today that was filmed on the a6300 and a great example of good footage and variety of shots.

I bought a canon rebel on Amazon. Works great. I think I spent around $200. I wanted a little more than the kit lens (though it's fine) so I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N83VQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Bl7CwbRDHJBB3
They basically turn your kit lens into a macro lens. I will say though that you have to use manual focus when you use these. Can't beat the price though.

I have this tripod: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_2m7Cwb8TNTP51

And this light: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=379774&gclid=CJe68avv5MkCFU1gfgodmMQLWA&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&is=REG&A=details

I use a reflector too but that light comes with a decent one.

This site has a lot of great tips, I particularly like this article and it uses the light above: http://pinchofyum.com/artificial-lighting-tips-for-food-photography.

Here's a photo I took with my setup tonight -- https://instagram.com/p/_bHx--BgJh/

Good luck! It's fun to learn all this stuff. (Disclaimer: I'm not a chef, I just like taking nice food photos).

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

Okay, put the t3i in manual (M) and set the shutter to 1 second or longer - this is super important, you'll get trails on things and it'll make them look like they're moving. Get a 10 stop ND grad filter for your lens so that you can do this without the shots being super dark - they're basically sunglasses for your camera. Set the iso to like 200 (for daytime) and just put the whiter balance on auto, it doesn't really matter

Point at something like cars, or if you're filming ice, pull farther out so we can see everything that's moving quickly in the background. Google search "Your City" and a ton of great shots from photographers will pop up on google images. Go copy those locations with the same composition so you know the framing will look good (since its already been done and you can see a sample of it online)
Aim for about 100 photos a shoot, this will give you about 4 seconds of footage at 24fps
I have my intervelometer set to about every 6 seconds

Bonus: Shoot in jpeg + RAW, get Adobe Lightroom, its super easy to use. Edit the RAWs in there because they're great for color correcting/editing. Send them to Adobe After Effects and apply Warp Stabilizer if there's any wind pushing your tripod or shaking your camera. it'll look great then

Source - I just made this with the t3i
https://vimeo.com/116221371

I bought a set of Neewer ND filters + UV + CPL so it's 6 in total...~$30. I haven't gotten to test them out just yet but reviews were positive, price was excellent. The kit is nice, the filters look to be made of good quality and they install (push on) easily. I use ND/PL filters on my drone for videos and there is a noticeable benefit, I imagine the same result for the GoPro.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Lens-Filter-GoPro/dp/B074V76DWB

i've been wanting to do this really cool group costume for a while now. My favorite video game is bioshock and i'm obsessed with the creepyness of it and it's just amazing, so i've been wanting to do like a group contest of like the big daddy, the little sister and a splicer or soemthing like that but i can't find anyone that likes bioshock as much as me and is willing to do it with me because we would definitely have to make the costumes.

link something hmm let's see this because i just got a new phone and a case would be very helpful, or maybe this because it would come in handy with the photography class that i'm taking this semester

Thanks for having a contest, especially your first contest! that's awesome! :D

Fresh into getting into drones, I pick up my Mavic Pro from Target today after work. However, I have a couple hundred hours of experience with R/C flight with airplanes so I've got experience there. I'm flying out to Kauai on vacation tomorrow morning and will be learning all about the new toy while heading out to the island and hopefully be able to get good enough at it to capture some decent shots of the island.

My questions is regarding gymbal filters for the Mavic Pro. I anticipate I'll be in some pretty bright daylight conditions, do I need to pick up some gymbal filters? The very little looking I've done says PolarPro filters are what folks recommend.

Would this 6-pack cover everything I need? I don't know that I would be able to get these in time for my trip tomorrow morning unless I can find a camera shop that carries them.

How important are these filters?

Will I be able to get decent shots / footage without them and edit in post?

Which filters do I need or don't need. I live in Washington so overcast weather is very common. But would love to be able to shoot in direct sunlight and have good results also. Polarized? UV?

Cheers

https://www.amazon.com/Polar-Filters-Mavic-Filters-Cinema-6-Pack/dp/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525279854&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=dji+mavic+gimbal+filter&psc=1

So a few months ago, I gave myself a budget of $5000 for everything I’d need to be a One Man Video Army. Besides an empty Lowell hard case and a pair of headphones, I had nothing in the picture above before commencing the buying spree. The grand total ended up coming to around $5500 or so but I’m pretty stoked to have stuck fairly close to my initial budget.

Here's a detailed list of everything in the picture above:

ITEM | WHAT I PAID | COST NEW | LINK TO BUY NEW

-- | :-- | :-- | :--
Panasonic GH5 w/Rode Videomic Pro, 2 SD cards and batteries|$1,000.00|$1,500.00|B&H
Lumix 12-35mm 2.8|$550.00|$900.00|Amazon
Mitakon 25mm 0.95 Prime|$300.00|$350.00|B&H
Sigma 50-100mm 1.8|$750.00|$1,100.00|B&H
Tokina 11-16 2.8|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Viltrox EF-M2 Speedbooster|$150.00|$200.00|B&H
Manfrotto 502 Video Tripod|$400.00|$400.00|B&H
Tripod Bag|$25.00|$25.00|Amazon
Panasonic XLR Adapter|$300.00|$400.00|Amazon
Sennheiser Wireless Mic System|$450.00|$600.00|Amazon
LowePro Camera Bag|$75.00|$75.00|B&H
Neewer 3-Light LED 660 Kit w/Fovitec stands|$350.00|$350.00|Amazon
Kessler Slider w/tripod head|$400.00|$900.00|B&H
Hoya 43mm Filter Kit|$35.00|$35.00|Amazon
Hoya 58mm Filter Kit|$40.00|$40.00|Amazon
Feelworld F570 Monitor|$200.00|$200.00|Amazon
Zoom H6 Recorder|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Neewer 5-in-1 Reflector|$20.00|$20.00|Amazonn

Given my budget, there really wasn’t much debate over what camera would best suit my needs. I’m doing a lot of paid corporate and event video work, but I also shoot films and documentaries. So the GH5 made the most sense given its quality, versatility, and value. I can transport and operate all of this stuff without the need for additional crew, which is especially nice when a client doesn’t want to pay for that.

I’ve shot a few films and several paid gigs with this set already and it’s working out well so far. Happy to answer any questions over why I chose one thing over the other. We all have our preferences with equipment :)

I shoot mainly speedball but I do woodsball infrequently. I'm inside the net and I typically stand on the corner during the break, move about 1/4 way down the field and get shots from that angle, and then move to the center 50 for the rest of the game. If the game is obviously going to one team I move down to the opposite side of the field and capture the player hanging the flag. I typically shoot one team at a time and get breakout shots, players moving to their first bunker, and then players inserting/at their bunker from another angle. I spend most of my time at snake.

How often I get hit depends on the division (experience level of the players). During practice, not a lot of paint is flying compared to tournaments, so I get hit maybe 5 times in a day. During local tournaments, everyone is around D4 (lowest level of tournament), so if I'm on the snake side, I catch the end of a lane a bit often. Maybe a dozen shots in a day, tops. When I photographing higher divisions and pros I typically do not get hit. They're very very good at hitting their targets and nothing else. How often I get hit also depends on the size of the sideline.

I used to shoot with a D5000 with a 70-300 4.5-5.6 VR. Since PSP MAO I've been shooting with a D7100.

As far as keeping my gear safe, I always have a lens hood and a B+W 67mm UV filter on my lens. It can take a direct hit (I've been fortunate enough to be hit only once). Sometimes I wrap a small shirt around my lens to protect from paint splatter and so I can wipe my hands.

Hope this helps!

I already posted the tarnished coin :p http://i.imgur.com/DYEq7RA.png

And I don't have any macro tubes nor a macro lens (too expensive), I use macro filters, cheaper but sort of the same effect.

http://www.amazon.com/PLR-Close-up-Digital-Cameras-75-300mm/dp/B007N83VQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377134616&sr=8-2&keywords=macro+filter

If you need any help picking a set for whatever lenses you have or have any questions feel free to ask, I'd love to help.

I'm glad you asked, yes, I used a variable ND fader by Neewer. This photo was shot at F/16 with the fader cranked pretty far dark and you can see in the photo that it is very sharp. This was using my $100 Canon 50mm F/1.8 at F/16 so diffraction was in play, with a cheap Tiffen filter on it and an even cheaper ND fader and it turned out very very sharp. I would highly recommend the Neewer variable ND to anyone in need of an ND filter. I got mine for $5 on Amazon with free shipping because of prime, you can also see other photos I've taken with it linked to the Amazon page.

This Macro kit would greatly benefit me because I would love to be able to start taking better macro pictures. It always feels like I cant get close enough. I have a good distance lens and love it, but I really want to be able to sneak up on the little things and get a good close shot. Nothing quite as frustrating (there are some things but its a turn of phrase) as when you try to get that closer shot only to have it refuse to take it or to focus properly.

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XYL8RW4/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I've gotten a few Neewer brand products for my Sony a6300 and have always been impressed with the quality of their gear compared to price.
I got these lenses on Friday and they worked great. I took the mavic out on a really clear and bright day and was able to keep the shutter speed at 50 shooting at 24 frames using the nd 16 filter.
I got home and uploaded some footage and it looked great!

Do you have a link to where you bought them? Are you sure they're for GoPro? With a Hero6 camera, your ND filters should be square, as they replace the front lens cover, like this. The only round ones I've seen for the Hero5-7 line come with an adapter accessory to fit over the lens housing for a 52mm DSLR-style filter kit like this

There are older styles for the older cameras, which pressed onto the lens of the cameras where the lens was exposed all the time.

It looks like what you're using is something like this, which isn't for your model of camera. Are you sure you didn't buy a kit for Hero4 and are trying to press the filter onto the lens of your camera after you took the lens cover off? Because that's what it looks like to me.

Recently bought a few knick knacks for mine.

• ICE 67mm ND1000 Filter Neutral Density ND 1000 67 10 Stop Optical Glass, great price and has a lot of great reviews.
  
  
• Manfrotto MTPIXIEVO-BK PIXI EVO 2 Section Mini Tripod, needed a little tripod I could carry with me everywhere.
  
  
• Foto&Tech IR Wireless Remote Control for Sony Alpha Cameras, useful for all occasions.
  
  
• B+W 67mm CLEAR UV HAZE MRC (010M), just a little extra protection when the weather is bad. Great quality brass ring.
  
  
• 49 mm - 67 mm Filter Adapter Step-Up, so I can use the filters on my 55-210mm.
  
  
• Case Logic SLRC-203, needed a new bag that could fit everything, including big tripod and found this.
  

• This PolarPro set includes 3 filters, a lens guard, and gimbal guard. I have all 3 of these products and love them!. PolarPro is an excellent brand, especially when it comes to filters (which are an absolute necessity if you are shooting in sunny conditions and don't want a jello-look to your videos).
  
  
• Definitely get a propeller guard. I like SSE's because they have a quick release system. Just to note, if you have a tight-fitting case these may not work for you.
  
  
• I like having a lanyard on my remote. You probably don't need to buy a fancy one, any old lanyard lying around will work.
  
• I don't think you need a shorter cable. I just have a twist tie on one of my regular iPhone cables.

Macro Filter Set! I used to have some of these for my older camera, but after I upgraded I found that they were no longer going to fit the lenses I use now. Why do I want them? Because I love the versatility (and the novelty, c'mon) of being able to take macro shots without having to invest in a macro lens. Especially when it comes to nature shots, since getting up close and personal with the tiniest details on a bug or a flower is just amazing.

Try not to laugh at my extremely amateur comment here, but on amazon I see "starter" kits like these. Is this something that would be good for me to try out considering the price? A lot of the comments talk about a magenta hue being added to the photo, but I'm sure I'll be able to correct that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFG6LU2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A25BIGUW7MK12R

I completely understand that these aren't good. And also, do you have any experience with the variable ND filters? I've read some decent reviews of ones such as this Tiffen I will link. But I'm just super worried about vignetting.

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-67mm-Variable-ND-Filter/dp/B005TFU80I/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452240260&sr=1-2&keywords=variable+ND+filter+tiffen

I bought this little kit awhile ago and love it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYGRTNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to this day the only filters I use are the CPL, UV, and zoom (macro) filters.

I only bought this since it was cheaper that most kits out there, the reviews were good, and for someone like me who is constantly learning about photography and didnt want to spend a fortune on higher end equipment just yet it fit the bill.

I have a dedicated macro zoom lens coming in the mail now that will negate the zoom filters I use at the moment.

I would love to have this set of macro lens filters for my camera. I really love to do macro photography and haven't had a macro lens since I replaced my old camera. It would be really beneficial for my food photography when I need to capture the fine details, especially for baking.

If you're just starting out and on a tight budget, this ND filter kit might be a good choice. They're plastic, but at least they're something.

As for a polarizing filter, it depends on what you're going to be shooting. I actually just bought a CPL filter myself and I'm still learning how to use it. Basically a polarizing filter just reduces glare from reflective surfaces like sheets of paper, windows, lakes, etc. and a CPL filter lets you rotate the entire thing to choose which area of the shot is affected. So yes, a polarizing filter is also a good way to control exposure, but I wouldn't say it's as necessary as an ND.

If you're just starting out with ND filters, I'd suggest choosing a lower end kit of ND filter just to see if LE photos are something you enjoy doing. For instance something like these!

If (and when :p) you find out you'll like Long Exposure photography, then I would strongly suggest investing in a higher quality set (think Lee Filters :).

There are tons of different makes and models on the market as you know .. but from a "best bang for buck" POV ... no sense breaking the bank for something you haven't yet had the opportunity to try out.

I bought [this set](http://www.Neewer.com/ 4 Pieces Filter Kit for DJI Mavic Pro Drone Quadcopter Includes: ND4, ND8, ND16 and ND32 Filter, Made of Multi Coated Waterproof Aluminum Alloy Frame Optical Glass (MC-16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYL8RW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5ns8AbQHZD7W0) for my Mavic Pro. They work well so far. The construction is definitely cheaper than the Polar Pro from what I understand but they fit my needs fine. I haven't had any problems with them and I'm happy with the quality for the price.

I have no idea if these work on the air.

You might consider getting a continuous ring light such as this one.
A ring light is a easy, portable light that will allow you to get the shot, which wouldn't be possible without it.
In general, investing in lighting is never a bad idea. Simply learning how to use the lighting is always a lot of fun.

Also, you can get a variable ND Filter, which is also helpful for both video and stills.

Prop Guards: There's lots of pros and cons. Frankly, I don't use them as I feel the cons far outweigh the pros. There's plenty of YouTube vids and Google hits if you want to see these reasons and then decide for yourself.

2nd battery is absolutely necessary. Who wants a 15 minute flight and then done? Especially if ever going to do real estate photography or the like. I have three and sometimes wish I had four.

Other accessories: I would absolutely buy some filters including ND for your lens is you want to get better photos and vids. THIS is a good set.

When I was starting out I wasn't sure what ND filters I needed so I purchased this filter set and have since been upgrading the filters as I need them with higher quality Cokin ones.
I found that this set looked surprisingly good for the price and allowed me to to experiment with graduated NDs as well as acted as a makeshift matte box. I also still use the holder for my current filters.
For anyone starting out I'd also highly recommend getting a circular polarizer, it's the one filter that never leaves my lens when shooting outside and it also adds a nice color pop and reduces catching glare and reflections.

If you're looking for cheap and reliable neutral density filters, I just bought these and they work great. Not as perfect as a "real" filter but it does a pretty good job
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GTAKNWK/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item

My friend uses these Polar Pros for his spark and really liked them.

It's important to make sure they don't interfere with your gimbal.

Congrats /u/crimsonjella!!

CoverON® Hard Slim Design Case for LG G2 ATT TMobile Sprint - with Cover Removal Pry Tool - Black Mustache $2.30

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This would really help me travel more by adding to the type of photos that I can take and wanting to visit new places and revisit previous to see them through a new eye. I don't have enough to buy a new lens, so this is a very good supplement. Thank you for the chance : )

ND/PL ?
PolarPro Filtres Shutter Cinema Series pour DJI Mavic (ND8, ND16, ND32) https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01MQULKJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nKw9AbSB1R19M

Hope this is the good ones..
I like the polarized effect .
Thank you for replying

Sure!

Don't show the sky, any natural lighting will help sell the illusion.
You'll want to get yourself some ND filters, either cheap Like THESE

Or a variable screw on filter Like this

These will help you achieve a darker image, while allowing you to using whatever lens stop (within reason) you wish. Shooting in day in the forest is already going to be a bit darker than out in the open, but you should still be able to shoot close to wide open if you want.

Also, try to avoid showing glowing bright sun crashing through the trees onto the floor. Moonlight can do that, but doesn't always look the same.

Finally, if you want a "blue" look, you could white balance your camera to a yellow card which will shift it blueish. Or just shoot at 3200K or lower and it'll be fine.

Hope that helps.

I'm looking for a ND square filter set, I've heard they can be really expensive too, but I found these ones online for pretty cheap. Do you think I'm really getting what I pay for, or is it just a great deal? Here's the two I've found so far...


One


And the other


I'd get the one from aliexpress because theres more filters, but there really isn't a good description of the product and what kinds of filters it has. From the pictures they both seem kind of cheap anyway but I don't know what to expect because these are the epitome of what have been coming up when I search.

the 49 dollar set at best buy or even on amazon gives you good filters from polarpro at the cheaper price. its only a few bucks more than what youre think of getting.

https://www.amazon.com/PolarPro-Filter-3-Pack-Optical-Filters/dp/B073G9X7TR/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527040779&sr=8-4&keywords=polar+pro+spark+filters

Hoya is better you think? What do you think about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-Digital-Filter-Kit/dp/B00309CJIE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hoya+filter&qid=1557840365&s=gateway&sr=8-4#customerReviews

It's quite cost efficient as well.

Nice! I picked up these guys. They're really helpful during really sunny days and when I'm shooting at the beach. I also shoot in JPG + RAW so I can color correct the RAW files after. I've got a few more shots on my new instagram. Check it out!

Your only choices are not square filters or variable. Standard round ND filters work as well.

https://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8/

$30 bucks for those on a budget...

Or https://www.amazon.com/Filter-ND1000-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B073YGJ7L5 $60 for a 3 stop, a 6 stop and a 10 stop. Great for a budget shooter

And since you are on this anti square filter crusade, throwing it in as a budget option as well - https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Complete-Filter-Kit-Cokin/dp/B00UFG6LU2/

$30 for 8 filters, and the holder... Looks like it would fit on a budget...

Would this be a good one? I have a Hero 7 Black.

The polarpro nd filters are amazing. I actually have a set of ND8, ND16, and ND32 that I'd be willing to sell to you. I bought them at the end of June, but then got a Mavic 2 so I won't need them anymore. I've only used them a few times and got them on Amazon. PM me if you're interested and I'll send you pics or whatever else you may want to see.

Honestly, just get the gel inserts. The flip systems seem nice, but I'm not willing to pay $50+ when I can get the gel for $8 (and even that's paying too much).
these go for $12, so even paying $8 for a few small circles of the material seems like too much, but that's a niche market for ya.

B+W Polarizer when I've got sky/water that I wish to accentuate (or glare I need to rid of).

Tiffen Variable ND filter for run-n-gun stuff.

Breakthrough Photography ND Filter for things I care about.

I actually just invested in a 6-stop breakthrough filter to replace my Tiffen because I was starting to notice more and more unpredictable colorcast (it's still a very good filter). So far it's a vast improvement, but I don't know how functional it is compared to a variable filter... I'm personally hanging onto my Tiffen for some time before I part with it.

I'm new to photography and I have a Nikon D3200.

I want to buy some filters but I don't really know what to buy.

I want to know if this kit is any good to

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A7U15V6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=12CHW0SLXX3F4&coliid=I1Y5LOA4437I2T

Basically I want to use it for my skies and for the water/waterfalls

Thank You! Do you think these filters from neweer would help?

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Lens-Filter-GoPro/dp/B074V76DWB/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=filter+gopro&qid=1551064641&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Hello fellow photographers, especially, landscape photographers, I have some questions about using a circular polarizer filter along with an ND filter when shooting foliage and water.


My current setup consists of:

• Lee Foundation kit + 77mm adapter ring
  
• 10 Stop ND filter by Haida
  
  
  I put my adapter ring on top of my lens, then the foundation filter holder and then slide in the filter in the holder.
  
  
  I have been eyeing this filter: https://www.amazon.com/77mm-Circular-Polarizer-Multi-Resistant-Coating/dp/B0000BZLAD/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1488189576&sr=8-7&keywords=77mm+polarizing+filter
  
  
  The setup would be:
  
  
• The CPL filter which has threads on the outside
  
• The adapter ring
  
• Lee foundation kit holder + ND filter.
  
  
  
  My questions are:
  
  
• Will it cause too much vignetting with my Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L lens ?
  
• How can I use the same CPL over my Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L lens ?
  
• Is CPL even a good idea when shooting water and foliage ? Some sites say they are indispensable while some are saying one can do without them.
  
  
  
  I don't want to spend a fortune on a Lee square CPL filter and would like to stick to a screw on filter.
  
  
  

I used these for weddings with my flashes. They work awesome, and they include a Kelvin rating and how much it adjust it. 5000-5500 Kelvin is daylight (my Nikon likes 4800). 3200-3400 K is Tungsten, Florescent is 3000k with Green.

The florescent ones that come in the pack might need to be doubled up, you will probably lose half a stop exposure (1/3 roughly per green gel). The darker the gel will reduce flash output. This is added on the loss of exposure from your umbrellas/softbox if you use it.

If you use ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) then use the Hue tab for yellows slider in the HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance) area to bring it to taste.

If your looking for actual full front to back color management, shoot raw. Photograph this chart with even cross lighting or in daylight with minimal shadows cast on the color patches. Then run this program and it will give you presets for the camera calibration tab in ACR. Same presents can be used for Lightroom since they are using the adobe color engine etc.

To successfully manage this i would stop by to photograph the office quickly to get the color temp correction. Test your flash with a couple combos etc. Your missing one huge component possibly. The light coming into the office, since it is shade, you are going to get about 5800-6000k coming in (shade/direct lighting mixture) which is a blue tone. So you will have corrected for the nasty fluorescent, but now since you dropped to 3000k there is a huge blue source of light coming in.

Either balance everything and deal with the blue in post, or blast everything with un-adjusted flash (or a CTB 1/4) so the florescent doesn't have time to show up. If it is a really cloudy day your going to get a 6,600k which will be bluer than originally planned for, and if that happens you will need probably a CTB 1/2 or CTB full (or 1/2 and 1/4 combined) to balance the lights- also you need to add exposure if that is the case.

By the way it also depends on the type of florescent lights. If it is the new CFL (compact florescent lights) that you screw in, you will not have a problem because they refresh up to 10,000-40,000 times a second. The question is if they are the long tube florescent lights they refresh around 100-120 times a second. What this means is that your shutter speed should be slower than 1/125 of a second because it might catch one not refreshed and then you get to spend time in photoshop. Also the length of exposure balanced with the outside will determine how much of a shift of green you get. Do be aware that the florescent lights that say 'cool white' have a coating that is pretty much doing what the filter gels are doing.

TL;DR Damned if you do, damned if you don't. And your client probably might not care about all this trouble. Great system when streamlined though :)

source: Too many weddings.

I prefer this calibration script, but more advanced. Either script will do the job with minimal differences.

edit: move brain dropping to the correct train of thought.

I have just one more question, can you recommend me an ND filter for my Nikon D3300 with regular 18-55mm kit lens? I have no idea which mm length lens I should get because they come in various sizes or the differences between some ND filters. I saw this and this on Amazon. Like what's the difference between ND2 and ND4?

Two of them:
First has one has multiple copies of commonly used ones (reddish, cyan, straw, CTO, CTB, etc) and they're a hair bigger (sized for speedlights)
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Strobist-Collection-1-5x3-25-Strobes/dp/B002SWIOOM/

This one is the original with one of everything they make (it was the original hack recommended on strobist).
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/

I got some stick on velcro and use those to attach them to my speedlights.

I recently purchased these and they're great. Especially if you don't want to invest a ton of money in them at the moment.

I use them on my 50mm 1.4 for shallow DOF during the day, and you can stack them to darken them!

Neutral Density Filters for 50mm

Just got myself a whole set of ND filters. I love taking exposure shots.
This is what set I got if anyone was curious..

I've only used them once so far, the ones I got were these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073G9X7TR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Comparing footage to no filter, it does tend to smooth out certain transitions due to reducing the shutter speed. Def worth 20 bucks to improve the quality.

Just order a new CPL. Amazon prime with free next day shipping. We're only talking about $70-$80 for halfway decent CPL.
https://www.amazon.com/77mm-Circular-Polarizer-Multi-Resistant-Coating/dp/B0000BZLAD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525092719&sr=8-5&keywords=circular+polarizer+77mm+B%2BW

For videos, I almost exclusively use ND32 to get the shutter speed to 60. Here is the set I got for my P4A. I'm very happy with it. The PL are polarized filters. They rotate to cancel out light from various directions. Being on a drone limits their functionality because you cannot adjust them mid flight, but they work good if you're primarily shooting from one angle.

For pictures during the day, I use the ND8 or ND16. I have not played around with the PL version yet, I have only had my drone for 2 months.

This is a small album I did of the sunset at Silver Beach in St. Joseph Michigan. This was one of my very first shoots. I did not use any filters and the quality is not amazing because I took these while recording video. The last one is a composite I did in photoshop to make the foreground brighter.

Https://imgur.com/a/Tz3M1 This pic was taken with an ND16 filter and taken right off my sd card, no post work at all.

haha, i used gels for the first time at a wedding only a few weeks ago. i used some Rosco The Strobist gels on my OCFs just because the lights were so obtrusively warm.

Thanks for the link. I will check them out.

I have these filters that I plan on putting in front of the light to change to tone/color of light.

Well I'm looking at [this](http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Photography-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning/dp/B007SXJ1VG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372630014&sr=8-1&keywords=nd+filters+58mm0 right now. I'm on a college kid budget so I was looking at this or the Tiffen ones for 45 bucks which seem to have better reviews. I don't know what the difference between a .6 stop and a ND2 is tbh.

I use lens filters for my digital camera, I would look into seeing what you can use on a drone.

EDIT: Here is a video to explain it for drones. Just buy some off Amazon and test it out.

https://youtu.be/1-D9DkFV0JI

Cheapest Amazon filters I found:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYL8RW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p51SCbECAXC6Q

I bought these. I thought I read where shorter lenses may not give the best macro results?

And I guess I'm in luck, because I just bought some Tri-X!

I saw the 6 pack on Amazon for $80 for a bit while they were out of stock. As soon as they were back in stock the price jumped up to $150 (which is what it's listed for on the PolarPro website).

Is this the set you're referring to? If so, where did you pick it up?

https://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Filters-Filters-Cinema-6-Pack/dp/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=s9_wsim_gw_g421_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=FPWPD3Q8ZJ8CTPS9CYNR&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

I dont know if they make ones for mavic pro, but I got the neewer six filter set off amazon for the p4p and they worked just fine and were 46 instead of 190.

The Polar Pro filters are the ones I've heard people talk about most, and for some reason they're currently way cheaper on Amazon than their own website. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Or if you use a really dark filter.
58MM Altura Photo Neutral Density Professional Photography Filter Set (ND2 ND4 ND8) + Premium MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SXJ1VG/

would these work http://www.amazon.com/PLR-Close-Up-Digital-Cameras-55-200mm/dp/B002P9HXMW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418161828&sr=1-1&keywords=close+up+lens

Can I put a CPL on this Cokin P style filter holder by NEEWER?

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Complete-Filter-Kit-Cokin/dp/B00UFG6LU2/ref=sr_1_3?s=p

By personal use does it? or can you guys tell in looking at the picture?

Essentially it's a neutral density filter, these come in a variety of different styles, they have graduated neutral density filters that are essentially a gradient from light to dark, or some that are a hard stop and simply half (or 1/3) darker and the rest is clear.

They are designed for exactly this purpose, it enables a photographer to expose every portion of a scene in a single image without having to composite multiple images in post.

---
Here is one such kit.

And here is another.

sure no problem! I bought these recently from amazon. They just go over the off camera flash, I have this one which has a small diffuser that folds down over the front which I slide the gel under.

Here's a pic where you can see the flash with the gel in the background.

EDIT: Fixed a link

Wrong product (https://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Filters-Filters-Cinema-6-Pack/dp/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483992368&sr=8-1&keywords=polar+pro+mavic) is what OP has.