> Buffered parking mode.

Dash cams pretty much come in two different veins. Excellent parking mode, Excellent build quality, Good/Fair video quality (with buffered parking mode) vs Lackluster parking mode (not buffered), good/fair/poor build quality, Excellent video quality. The A119S currently does not have a working parking mode, and if firmware is updated to support that, the expectation will be lackluster parking mode.

> IMX322 or better sensors on both channels.

Most people don't know what this means, and not all sensors of the same name are made with equal stats. Example: The small Sony Exmor sensor, isn't equivalent to the large Sony Exmor sensor of the same name.

> 1080p @ 30fps or better on both channels.

Many complain about Fair video quality, however this dash cam meets the above requirement.

• Thinkware F50 1-CH ($69.99 USD) - Fair video quality, Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode. - Lacks a Wifi/cell phone app, but format free technology helps and reliability is top notch. ($69.99 USD) - 2nd vendor. ($90-110 USD) - 3rd vendor. - There is a coupon code for this one in the video description.
  
  The level of expectation for all dash cams should be: Read the plate out loud, and record via audio. By footage is nice to have, but should not be expected. Even Excellent video quality might miss the plate, especially at speed, and at night. Also pen/paper write down the plate #, and call the police with telling them the number.
  
  > Screen available to use for pseudo-backup cam.
  
  This requirement will servery limit your options, and I do not know many dash cams with this feature. However, you could install: Backup Camera and Monitor Kit For Car,Universal Waterproof Rear-view License Plate Car Rear Backup Camera + 4.3 LCD Rear View Monitor ($29.99 USD) or other similar devices, and it would likely be more effective.
  
  > Integrated voltage cutoffs to prevent battery drain.
  
  Most hardwire kits will have this. Even cheap ones like this ($13USD) hardwire kit has it. This hardwire kit's voltage cut off is preset and not changeable. More expensive hardwire kits may have an adjustable voltage based, and/or timer based shut off.
  
  More expensive hardwire kits:
  
  
• Power Magic Pro ($24 USD)
  
  
• multi-safer ($34.95 USD)
  
  
• Vico Power-Plus Battery Discharge Prevention (BDP) Device ($60 USD)
  
  Built in voltage cut off is a very desirable feature, and it to be adjustable both voltage/timer based. However, only Excellent parking mode, Excellent build quality, good/fair video quality dash cams have it. Lackluster parking mode, good/fair/poor build quality, Excellent video quality dash cams do not have this feature.
  
  > Support over 128gb.
  
  This is a great number, but many dash cams that you should consider, do not meet this requirement.
  
  
• Thinkware F770 ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Superior night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in gps. 1080P Front 1080P rear
  
  Thinkware F770: superior night vision & Dual Save mode Maximum SD Card 64GB (Micro SD)
  
  ----
  
  Anyways, I suggest fully researching your options:
  
  Excellent Build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality:
  
  
• BlackVue DR450-1CH ($129.99 USD) Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, lacks wifi, optional gps, lack of reviews.
  
  
• BlackVue DR430-2CH ($179.99 USD) Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, lacks wifi, optional gps, lack of reviews.
  
  Wifi/Cellphone app adds a lot, it helps with setup, changing settings, maintenance (formatting every 30-45 days), and gives you the ability to discreetly view footage at the scene of an accident.
  
  
• BlackSys CH-100B 2-Channel ($269.99 USD) - Excellent built quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Good night/Good shadow, built in wifi, optional GPS. - Receive $10 off with "top5blackboxmycar" when shopping for a dash cam over $99.99 at BlackboxMyCar.com Capacitor 1080P Front 720P rear
  
  
• BlackVue DR650S-2CH ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent built quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Good night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in GPS. Capacitor 1080P Front 720P rear
  
  BlackVue DR650S-2CH Unique feature, Cellphone notifications of G sensor activation(s) in parking mode (Free), and cloud streaming feature (paid.) Maximum SD Card 128 GB (Micro SD)
  
  BlackVue over the cloud feature part 1
  
  BlackVue over the cloud feature part 2
  
  
• Thinkware F770 ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Superior night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in gps. 1080P Front 1080P rear
  
  Thinkware F770: superior night vision & Dual Save mode Maximum SD Card 64GB (Micro SD)
  
  Lackluster parking mode, fair/good/poor build quality, Excellent video quality: People pick these dash cams generally for video quality.
  
  
• A119 V2 ($80-100 USD) - V1 had minor flaws but is cheaper - V2 corrected some of those flaws and had firmware improvements. + Known problems of the A119 Excellent video quality day/good night/good shadow, good/fair build quality, lackluster parking mode. Discreet.
  
  
• A119S V2 ($100-120 USD) - This one has more potential but currently equal to the A119 due to lack of firmware improvements.
  
  
• Mobius ($80 USD) + USB Mini hardwire kit ($13 USD) + adhesive mount ($7.95 USD) + recommended but not required Super Capacitor ($7.95 USD) instead of lipo battery.
  
  
• Street Guardian SG9665GC ($234.95 USD Lackluster parking mode/ Excellent video quality, excellent build quality.
  
  
• Transcend 32GB Drive Pro 520 ($186.61 USD)
  
  ---
  
  A note for Micro SD Cards: Sandisk Ultra is not made for Dashcams.
  
  What is recommended for dash cams: Transcend High Endurance or any MLC card.
  
  For more on this issue:
  
  
• What Micro-SD Should I Buy for my Dash Cam?
  
  
• Dash Cam 101
  
  
• and the best resource: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/mlc-microsd-cards.10294/

1. He needs to be entertaining to keep viewers. If he's not at the 99.9999th percentile of skill, it's highly unlikely he'll build a following without being highly entertaining. So manage your expectations and help him manage his.
   
   
2. For someone to be entertaining a big part of it is to have a varied life. Conversation about a wide variety of subjects, being happy, healthy, clean, accomplished, etc... As a couple you should be helping each other achieve those things regardless, so maybe take a step back and look at that big picture.
   
   
3. AFK his stream, invite friends to watch it, etc...
   
   
4. Make him his chicken tendies, mountain dew, and open his doritos. Just kidding...
   
   
5. As for equipment and setup... This all depends. The next things I would usually advise would be the best quality camera you can get in your budget, like an actual HD camcorder and figure out how to hook that up. Maybe an IRL streaming backpack setup? Sound treatment for the room can be good, but majority of products you buy for this are snake oil, so do your research. I'll just list off some things that I recommend people as ideas:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ - Adjustable clamp-jaw mount for cameras like the Logitech C920/922 (the most recommended cameras). Get a better or more unique angle.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - Pop filters help a lot with audio quality.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017WNJS3M/ - Green screen it up and you can do all sorts of wacky or cool stuff, or it just cleans up the presentation of the stream in general.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Stream-Deck-Mini-Customizable/dp/B07DYRS1WH - The streamdeck mini just came out, pretty useful for doing goofy on-demand stuff with programmable buttons. Some people swear by these.
   
   For higher end stuff for audio, put this stuff in a wish list if he does start to take off:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M - Probably my most recommended mic for people wanting to get into the more serious stuff.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dbx-286s-Microphone-Preamp-Processor/dp/B004LWH79A - Probably the best entry level audiophile grade mic preamp. This is endgame for streamers personally, it's way beyond what most people have and it will give him an edge.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04 - Cloudlifter CL-1. This is a must if you ahve a Shure SM7B, excellent high end filter that will absolutely remove all noise.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ - Further eliminates noise from dirty power. Everyone who wants a decent XLR high-end setup wants something like this.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Heath-ZEDi-10FX-Compact-Interface/dp/B01ATAK5MS - This is an excellent mixer+audio interface combo, if you are going XLR you'll want a mixer. It's 4x4 USB, which for the price is a great value, and it's preamps and lines are notoriously silent. I bought the last version of this which was a 4x2 interface on a great sale, and couldn't be more pleased.
   
   There's a lot more you can get of course. A simple small table rack to rack mount these things... But it all depends, the sky is the limit with this stuff. Just giving you ideas of how you can go nuts with it.
   
   But at the core of it, if he's not organically growing by being consistent and working hard at it and trying to improve... Maybe he's just not entertaining enough? It is what it is. Don't think that buying this stuff really makes any difference, it only does if you are already able to gain viewers in the first place.

Hmmm.... Since it's for the boys and this would be a once in a lifetime opportunity I wouldn't mind spending quite a bit if I had to. So the stuff I'm thinking about is varying priceranges.

Seokjin + Hoseok: This!
They are packing cubes. Giving the same gift to 2 members is lame, I know. But while these would be great for all the boys. I deffinitely think 2Seok would use them a lot and appreciate them. It would honestly be great for all the boys since they travel so much. It's not only great for organising but also compressing so you can pack more and keep your clothes wrinkle free. These boys love their clothes so keeping everything neat, wrinke-free and organised in their bags seems like it'd be useful.

Yoongi: I think he's not the type to splurge on himself too much and would like practical gifts. So a fancy but practical product would be good. Like an electric blanket, fancy set of superwarm and soft sheets(lifechanger) or a towelwarmer since he likes baths and there's nothing better than a warm set of towels after a bath.

Namjoon: There are these pocket sized trackers that you can use with app. They're pretty pricey. But I'd get him 10. One for his phone, one for his keys, one for his wallet, one for his passport and 6 for him to lose XD There are also these small charger cables that are also keychains. Since I'm sure he'd lose his charger as well, I'd get a couple of those too.

Jimin: Traveler Jewelery box. To me Jimin seems to be one of the members who enjoys jewelery the most. He's also pretty bad at losing things. So I'd get him a traveler jewelery box to keep track of all his bling while he's abroad.

Taehyung: 20 Outfits for Yeontan. I know he has a lot of fur so he doesn't need it and he'd probably hate it too. But please! All I need in my life is one picture of Yeontan in a little bowtie TT.TT Please fashionista V, unleash your love of ties on him.

Jk: One of these! It's basically a clip to attach your camera to your belt/bag/bagstrap/etc. It keeps your camera secure even when hiking/cycling/playing etc and is quicker and less clunky than a camera bag. I think he'd have a lot of fun playing with a drone too but I doubt he'd have many opportunities to use it since it's hard to carry around.

There's also some stuff in general I feel like they should have as a group... Like a portable luggage scale, international power adaptor(they probably have this but from my experience... You can never have enough), phone charger keychains, mini travelsized hairdryer, microfiber towels, This infinity mug

This is a good place to start. Here are a few more thoughts/suggestions:

• Check the contents of the Lexar card, mine came with a mini card reader that works well.
  
• The gopro battery will be the limiting factor when continuously recording, you should test the maximum recording time before your wedding. Use the same settings and try to recreate the temperature it will be running at during the wedding.
  
• I highly suggest a product like this to give you peace of mind when you are using your gopro in the water. There are several cheap options on amazon.
  
• One thing that nobody has mentioned in this thread yet is sound. If you want the dialogue from your ceremony to come through the gopro will have to be very close. If there is wind it will be even more difficult to hear you. You'll get the best results if the case is not on.
  
• If any of your guests own gopros I'm sure they will be bringing them. See if they will let you borrow them for the wedding and pull the footage off of them afterwards. This way you can have multiple angles and make a really nice video later on. If he's up to it you can have the officiant wear a chest mounted gopro which will give a nice up close perspective and probably capture the best sound. You can get creative with any other angles.
  
• This flexible tripod is one of my favorite accessories. It's so versatile and can be mounted to just about anything. There are cheaper alternatives on amazon, I chose this one because it has a level (it was also $20 at the time I bought it).
  
• The Suction Cup is also a very useful tool for mounting the gopro. I suggest getting the gopro brand because it is sturdy and the suction cup is very strong.
  
• I would leave most of the settings alone. There is a ton of information on this subject and it can be overwhelming. My two cents are to use 2.7K resolution wide for most everything. If you want slow motion use 1080p at 60 FPS.
  
• One of the biggest problems with most people's videos are that they are shakey as hell. Try to keep the camera steady if possible. If you want to expand your budget a bit you can purchase a gimbal which will give you very very good results. Understandably those are out of most peoples' budgets and there are other techniques you can use to keep the camera steady by using the pole that will give decent results.
  
• If your gopro is in a cool/cold hotel room and you take it outside into the hot/humid air fog will condense on the lens. Once the lens warms up the fog will go away.
  
• Make sure you play with your gopro before hand so that you get a good feel for it and you can get any questions out of the way a head of time.
  
  Feel free to ask any questions you might still have. Also, congratulations and good luck!

Make it up to the Domain. I believe the Microsoft Store has a demo, free of course.

p.s. I have a Vive and it's amazing!

...But keep in mind it's a first generation product with a technical support and customer service group that's new to VR tech and all the nuances that come about with supporting said equipment.

1. You need a beefy computer (CPU/GPU) to maintain the recommended 90 frames per second, per eye. Get Steam if you don't have it already and download the free Steam VR Performance Test to get a basic idea of how well prepared your computer is for VR.
   
   The pixel density isn't there yet compared to your traditional iPhone Retina display or other high PPI phone displays (pixels per inch) - so you'll see individual pixels. FOV (Field of View) isn't wide enough to fill your entire peripheral view, think of it more like a pair of goggles (and the circular rectangle view you'd see as a result) into another world.
   
   A decent sized play area clear of obstacles for roomscale is definitely preferred to be able to support the majority of
   games out there. Minimum size for roomscale is 1.5m x 2m, maximum is 15' (5m) diagonal. You'll also want to securely mount your lighthouse beacons that enable the 2mm or less accuracy of your head mounted display (HMD) and controllers.
   
   Those that can wallmount, should, as it'll provide the most securely fashioned physical mounting (and thus non-wobbly) tracking. Otherwise tripods or some things like these http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System-144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12 with two of these http://www.amazon.com/Grifiti-Threaded-Microphone-Diameter-Motorcycles/dp/B00E5M39AW/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XZ7ESQEJ8AFBYREADCZ will work!
   
   However, despite me listing all of these caveats (for your benefit, informed decisions are something I always promote and recommend) - it's still amazing technology that gets you absolutely immersed in the video game (and creative, and 3D video and... and...) world that's at YOUR scale and size.
   
   If you do take up Codeninja's offer, have him get Waltz of the Wizard, too, and try it out. It's awesome and free!

After many hours of comparison-shopping online, I think I've finally got my urban camera-carrying situation sorted out. Your needs/preferences may vary, but here's what works for me.

I've basically got two setups: backpack and sling. The backpack is the REI Ruckpack 28L, which comfortably fits (for example) my camera insert, tripod, and light jacket or two in the main compartment. It's also got a handy side zip panel for easy access to the camera insert. I have the Peak Design Capture Clip on one of the shoulder straps, so I can keep the camera (Pentax K-70) either on the clip for super convenient shooting or in the bag for safety.

For the sling setup, I use the Peak Design 10L sling. The main compartment comfortably holds my camera, (at least) three lenses, and my tripod, and there's good storage for other accessories as well. For example, the tripod can also be carried in the external straps, freeing up space in the main compartment for a light jacket or such. While the sling has an attachment point for the capture clip, I find that's not a very convenient/comfortable setup, at least for my DSLR. Instead, the camera is either in my hands or in the bag.

The downside to the sling is that there's no easy place to stick the camera without accessing the bag, unlike the backpack/capture clip setup, where I can stick the camera securely on my chest in two seconds without accessing the pack. The benefit to the sling is that I can sling it around in front of me, providing a convenient container/horizontal surface for comfortably changing a lens without taking the sling off or sitting down. The sling is also ~1/3-1/2 the size of the backpack, so there's a size/capacity tradeoff there as well (in addition to the backpack being more comfortable overall).

Anyway, I'm not sure if that exactly addresses your question, but I just thought I'd share a pair of setups that I've found work for me, which are somewhat complementary in practicality but each quite versatile in their own right.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

Hero 7 black is the way to go. The hypersmooth stabilization makes it worth it.

Accessories to get:

First of all, get a gopro plus trial. It gives you 50% off of batteries and other accessories, but not chargers or microsd cards.

Grab a few extra batteries. With the trial, they're $10 each.

The dual bay charger is well worth the price.

These are the microsd cards I use in my H7B. They're fast, reliable and cheap. Also on gopro's recommended list of cards to use.

I use tempered glass protectors for the lens and rear screen and they don't affect video quality at all. They went on very easily and the lens cap is a nice bonus.

For a case, I currently use this one, but the official case looks good too.

I use this frame mount and love it. The front round piece can be removed if desired; I took it off as I don't need it for what I use my gopro for. It includes mounting options for both standard threaded mounts and gopro mounts. And the back slides on and off.

If you need a head mount, the amazonbasics one is identical to the official gopro branded mount aside from the logo (I have both).

Completely optional, but I really like these aluminum knobs over the standard plastic ones.

​

That about covers everything I use. Hope this helps some!

I've seen this gets posted frequently. Here's a high level overview with some specific parts.

You need at least one camera (duh) and a way to get audio. The camera can be gopro or knock off, but you need a sturdy mount like this or this or this.

The easiest way to synch audio is to connect your camera straight in to the audio panel, with a cable like this or doing the "stuff the mic in your ear" trick that was mentioned already.

You could also get a billet mount like this to get some awesome external views and/or a wing strut clamp like this but your battery may not last as long as your flight!

Then head on over to your favorite video software and go at it!

Good luck and share your videos w/ us when you're done awesomeing it up!

This is late but I stumbled into this thread from a search for something else. I've just finished my semester doing the same thing for a Calculus 2 class in a college setting. I usually use a chalkboard, but I opted for a webcam attached to a clip-on stand. This ran through my laptop (a Mac, which is relevant) and then into the overhead projector. Instead of writing on a board I instead wrote on paper. This actually encouraged me to pre-print worksheets to work through and also make available for students, which has been very helpful and I've received lots of positive comments from students about the setup. Lectures are recorded with Quicktime Player using my laptop's built-in mic. After a new concept or a natural break in the discussion I stop recording, save the video, and start another one, giving me videos of 5-15 minutes each. This semester I ended up with 150 videos, all hosted on YouTube unlisted with a playlist URL that I shared with students once at the beginning of the semester (voting and comments disabled).

When I wanted to use a virtual manipulative (I like GeoGebra for demos, and I code on the fly in front of the class with Sage) I use [record screen] rather than [record movie] in Quicktime. If I run DwayneCam (free app for OSX) I can show the webcam stream in a window on the desktop while I also show my web browser, and the whole screen gets recorded.

It really is a great setup and cost me under $100 total. Plus all you ever see of me is my hand.

Webcam

Stand

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Title|Go Ape! Amazing Obstacle Courses and Zip Line in Pittsburgh, PA!
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Description|Check out our previous adventure: ⤶https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhUhMRVVmB8⤶⤶Follow us on Instagram: ⤶@PeteLeMaster⤶@CaitLeMaster⤶@Traveling.LeMasters⤶⤶We went to Go Ape in North Park twenty minutes from downtown Pittsburgh!⤶The staff was friendly and helpful, the experience was terrific, and they have 15 locations across the US! This place is kid friendly and a great exercise!⤶⤶Have an idea for an adventure you'd like to see us take? Subscribe to our page and leave a comment and we will put it on our list! ⤶⤶Thanks for watching! ⤶⤶Video: GoPro Hero7 https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-HERO7-White-Waterproof-Digital/dp/B07GDFTSPV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3HEHWZUG04FVK&keywords=gopro+hero+7+white&qid=1571585075&sprefix=gopor%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-3⤶GoPro Head Attachment: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Strap-Camera-Mount-GoPro/dp/B00R4YCKIK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1QYVJJ94GI6T4&keywords=gopro+hero+head+mount&qid=1571585112&sprefix=gopro+hero+head%2Caps%2C245&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjhQOEpYUVlZMUcyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU1NDU0M0tIWUo1MDE4UzAzMiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjI1OTk2WVEzTkNYT085VDU1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==⤶Song: Zombie by Jamie T

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Sorry, I didn't provide much background - Here is something I posted in an earlier thread
>
> My current equipment :
>
> 1. Camera : Canon T3i
> 2. Lenses : Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8, Canon 55-250mm f/4.0-f/5.6
> 3. Tripod : Proline Dolica
> 4. Software : Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom 6
>
> Using these, I manage to get these : Album
>
> I want to further my astrophotography, but realize I would need better equipment to better these.
>
>
>
> Which of these would be best bang for my buck for a step forward with astrophotography?
>
> 1. A tracker : Ioptron SkyTracker OR Vixen Polarie
> 2. A good solid tripod and ball head
> 3. PixInsight software (Is there a cheap or free alternative to a $250 software? I tried DSS, but found it to be inconsistent with results)
>
> I know a good answer to this would be 'everything', but I can't get myself to spend a lot of $$ at this moment. I could spend a few hundred on one of these, and then at a later point re-evaluate.
>
> Thanks for hooking me into this awesome hobby!

Basically, I have already tried my hand at the milky way and the moon. Without a telescope or a longer zoom lens, I doubt I could do planetary photography. Once I convince myself to buy an Ioptron Skytracker, it could open me up to getting shots of the Pleiades cluster, Andromeda galaxy, Orion nebula. Hence my question.

So it just coincidence then, that all three of them are around the same part of the sky?

Thanks for posting

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Movable Lighthouse Solution by Mbbobrow


Not a super cheap alternative but I think this should be a great solution for a non permanent low profile install.

Impact Deluxe Varipole Support System - Black (Pair)
http://www.amazon.com/Impact-Deluxe-Varipole-Support-System/dp/B008OM1FZU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

SUPON New Camera Super Clamp Tripod for Holding LCD Monitor/DSLR Cam
http://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

$200 bucks is certainly pricy but these look great and should be super versatile.

	

	

	

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You can get these poles, which are 15$/pop, and just as good, but a little bit shorter.

I also recommend this style of camera mount instead of the solid mount you recommend. Affords you a little bit more flexibility in mounting, these cost quite a bit more, but are way more solid/flexible.

But yeah, these extendable poles are amazing. Super cheap, portable, real easy to use. Plus, chances are you have a local harbor freight, so you can get em faster if you really want to.

I use like a headmount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R4YCKIK

The little mount thing yeah at first its mostly difficult to adjust to get right angle, so you have right amount of sky vs ground. But for most part you adjust once and then it stays at that angle. I use a Yi4k+ and you can also check frame connecting to wifi with phone.

But then yeah you do need to change your behavior just slightly.. trying to look with your head a tiny bit more.. instead of like 70% eyes 30% head try to do like 50% eyes 50% head and you stay in frame. You actually still want to use your eyes because then you get heli moving from one edge of frame to the other and not keep it dead center. Only other unnatural thing is looking down.. you tend to look up with your head but if you come in real close its more natural to look down with just eyes and you need to remind yourself to tilt your head down.

I mean I guess it sounds complicated, and its not totally fullproof.. but IMO its easy. Usually I just record like 5-6 packs and one of them is decent enough. You can also adjust FOV on camera... use a wider angle at first and then try more narrow FOV when you get used to it... I don't know with helis though they're so big, with quadcopters generally wide angle quad is way too small.

And if anything I think its even more important for 3D fllying.. you can change directions so easily the camera man always ends up delayed. Your current video I admit look good for most part, although camera movement is still delayed.. its not like some videos that are garbage when camera guy is just too slow to keep up.

Quadmovr uses a gopro headstrap.. I just think this video looks so much cleaner than 99% of helicopter videos.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIKJfpy_s_k

The camera movement just is aligned so well.. and you can see he's moving around in frame, he's looking with his eyes, but just a little extra head movement keeps quad in frame.

Eg another video, I dunno I just love this sorta look..
https://youtu.be/dtylvrkWOdc?t=56

I'm just always advocating for headmount setups, lol. ;)

Does she own a nice tripod already? If so, the iOptron Skytracker is the perfect gift for the entry level astrophotography, even a lot of people who own tons of nice equipment would love one of these. You get great tracking for widefield skyscape shots, but it is in a super compact little tracker instead of lugging out one of our huge EQ mounts. Not only that though, it is even easier to use and much less daunting than jumping straight into something like an EQ mount.

I know it is at the upper range for your budget at $300, but you can snag it used for $250 here if it hasn't sold yet. Or $260 from Amazon. I checked Astromart for you since you don't have to make an account, and the only one for sale over there is the same guy on CN.

If this is too far out your budget, I am not sure what would be the most cost effective per benefits thing to get around that price range. Like there are tons of objects, just they wouldn't be super useful as a beginner. Like a clip in LPS/CLS/UHC filter, a guide camera or guide scope, PixInsight, etc.

If all else fails you can get this beautiful Orion nebula bracelet from astrophotographer Terry Hancock or some other space themed jewelry (like maybe a ring made from a meteor or something).

But really, I have no idea. Shopping for girls is hard.

NM posted 10/4/19 at 11:04AM EST

Item Name:|GoPro Hero 5 Black Kit (COMPLETED)
--:|:--
Price:|$180
# of Spots:|45 spots at $4 each
Price Justification:|GoPro Hero 5 with Remote, 154.99, 120.50, 120, 125
Price Justification:|GoPro Hot Shoe Mount, 10
Price Justification:|GoPro Suction Cup Mount, 30
Price Justification:|GoPro Tool, GoPro Backpack Clip, selfie stick
Call spots?|Y
Spot limit per person?|0
Location/Country:|USA
Will ship international?|USA + CA under new shipping rules
Timestamp/pics:|FULL ALBUM HERE
Escrow:|No
Description:|Selling my mint condition GoPro Hero 5 Black with Waterproof Remo and a bunch of accessories. Like my other gear, this comes with full box, papers, and everything in mint condition. I used this for a trip a couple times the past year but no longer need it so would be happy to find it a good home. I've tried to price this fairly given the market and the condition of my stuff, but please let me know if I missed anything. Thanks and best of luck!

Here is what I am using. Have had zero issues with my setup and is also extremely easy to move and demo at other people's houses. Might have to get more creative if you have very high ceilings or slanted ceilings.

Harbor Freight Support Poles - These work great, they don't support a lot of load, but you don't need it to. They are also half the price of what everyone else is recommending on Amazon.

Camera Mount Clamp - Have had no issues with these, either, and very cheap. They allow you to also rotate the lighthouses in a very large arc depending on the setup you have.

I have had no stability issues; everything is rock solid tracking wise. The foot print is also like 3 x 6 inches on the floor. The low profile pads make it very easy to hide them behind book cases or other furniture as well. And you can get all of it for under $50.

I don't understand why you would ever use tripods, as they takes up 100 times the space and are less stable than the support poles. Good luck on your setup!

EDIT: Formatting.

Why not use the screw? There's tons of clamps with 1/4"-20 thread that are meant to put lights and such onto various types of poles for film and such. I use them myself to mount my light houses onto vertical braces from harbor freight. (They have a smaller footprint than a light stand or tripod.)

Here's some examples of the ones I'm using.
Pedco 1.5 Ultra Clamp

This will grip even onto a very thin pole. For the record I mount them to these poles. Harbor Freight 2 in 1 Ratcheting Cargo Bar

Here's some other excellent multi purpose clamps but they need a ticker pole to mount.

Limostudios Super Clamp It's a clone of the more expensive manfrotto super clamp. They fit on the blue portion of the brace, not the thinner silver extended portion.

These clamps are pretty universal and you can get a number of different attachments for them. You could screw the lighthouse right on there but you couldn't really aim it without a ball mount or you could get an arm like this or this though that second one might wobble with the lighthouse motor. Arkon makes a good very sturdy clamp I've used to mount camcorders on for years though I've broken lots of the quick mounting plates over time. The arm is much stronger than the superclamp arm I showed earlier. There's also small clamps like this one

Also for the thread as someone else mentioned there are adapters. This is likely the adapter you need as that's the other common screw size you see. but I can't really know without seeing the tripod. Personally I prefer to use clamps and mount to poles anyhow, it gives you a lot of mounting options.

/u/iamdw88 - congratulations on the f.Zuiko OM lens. Yes, the [£27.95 Fotodiox OM to MFT adapter] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotodiox-Adapter-Olympus-Thirds-Panasonic/dp/B002TSWTAA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) will work, but this [£11.99 adapter from XCSOURCE] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Camera-Photo/Lens-Adapter-Olympus-Micro-Camera-E-PL3-DC116/B008H2HZ7O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) or this [£15.99 adapter from K&F Concept] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Camera-Photo/Concept-Lens-Mount-Adapter-Olympus-Micro-Camera/B01172WA9I//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) will cost you less and both have been more favorably reviewed.

Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new lens and Happy Christmas to you and yours!

You could get a cheap camera and a mount that has the 1/4"-20 thread on it. That would keep it handy.

I've used RAM mounts on different bikes/cars over the years and they are pretty nice.

https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-231ZU

https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-201U

https://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-379U-252025

These mounts can be pretty pricey, but they are solid. My friend puts them on his ATVs to hold his GPS and has never lost a GPS yet. I use a similar setup for my action camera mount and have programmed the action camera to take a quick picture whenever I press a certain button. I've caught shots of deer crossing the trail with relative ease many times, and find myself using it to take shots of interesting things since like you I find it cumbersome to pull out the phone to take a picture.

I'm sure if you shop around you can either find these components cheaper, or another manufacturer that would be cheaper but still provide the same thing.

Edit: just some quick googling....

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Handlebar-Samsung-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B00585CLVS

Not a super cheap alternative but I they look great and range f on 6-12 feet.

Impact Deluxe Varipole Support System - Black (Pair)

http://www.amazon.com/Impact-Deluxe-Varipole-Support-System/dp/B008OM1FZU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


SUPON New Camera Super Clamp Tripod for Holding LCD Monitor/DSLR Cam

http://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01
$200 bucks is certainly pricy but these look great and should be very versatile.

First-time camera owner here. I've been reading and teaching myself what I can, but I am looking for a recommendation.

Last year I decided to buy a real camera and take a step up from iphone snapshots. After a lot of research, and the recommendation of a friend, I picked up the Olympus OM-D EM10-II. I like it a lot, and one of my favorite times to shoot are on cloudy, overcast days in the city or even at night when things are illuminated by streetlights. I've been wondering if maybe a prime lens would be an improvement over the 14-42 kit lens for that purpose. A wider aperture would allow faster shutter speeds.

I'm looking for a half-decent prime lens for street photography, ideally under $200. I did order this adapter, and if there are any recommendations, that would be awesome.

On the utili-key - Yes, absolutely. When I don't have the bag right next to me, it's got a little knife on it which always comes in handy because I don't carry a knife (unless you count the multi-tool). Also, my greatest failure as a man is that I cannot open a beer bottle without a tool, so it comes in handy for that ;)

The big reason is that I prefer a physically softer water bottle. Hard bottles tend to bash into stuff (especially other stuff in my bag) which I don't like. Also, it's convenient if it's disposable (I think I've gone through two the whole year). If you run out of water, and you just want to buy a cold drink at the convenience store, you can just throw out the water bottle and carry the new drink with you. I think the leaching hazards of plastic aren't that bad - just change the water every now and then, and don't leave it in the sun where the UV light can break down the plasticizers. I also leave my bottle in the fridge so I have a cold drink when I go out. This has a nice side effect of slowing the break down of the plastic.

Edit: Oh yeah - just remembered, another reason for preferring a disposable bottle is you can just give it to your friend and not worry about getting it back.

The stringpod is so so. See comment here. I was thinking of replacing my mini tripod with with a Pedco Ultrapod which I think is better than a gorillapod. To tell you the truth, I don't use the mini tripod that much - I've taken to carrying a real tripod (BK-555) with me most of the time. It's pretty small and light and velcro-ties underneath my bag pretty conveniently.

It's a bit top heavy but you get used to it. The mounting on a pole works perfectly as long as whatever pole you use is a heavier duty pole and not just some "selfie stick" that looks like a car antenna. If using a cheaper pole, the weight of the GoPro and the WG will make the pole bend OR just don't extend the pole and use the WG just like the G4 then you won't have any issues with the pole bending.

As far as mounting on a helmet, snowboard, or dog harness; the WG has an adapter that allows you to mount it to any GoPro standard mount. Just make sure to tighten up the thumb screw and you'll be good to go. I recommend using an alluminum thumb screw so you can tighten it up with a wrench without it breaking. Another option is to purchase a GoPro mount to tripod converter and use it that way.

If you want the camera to just see whatever product, and arms/hands, it will need to be as close to directly overhead as possible.

But since you only have one tripod at the moment, I might suggest trying to place the camera as directly over your daughters head as possible. Have her sit, and then position the tripod legs so that the camera can be just above and as much out in front of your daughters head as possible, so that she will basically be sitting under the tripod.

Please secure the tripod, because I was 15 once and the thing might probably get knocked over at one point.

A better solution for this particular angle you mention would be to get two stands and a crossbar, such as those made for holding photographic backgrounds.

Add to that a clamp with 1/4-20 mounting screw and you can safely attach the camera to the crossbar, have it overhead, and not worry so much about things being knocked over. This also get the camera out of the way should you want to setup a second camera for shooting a different angle.

Clamp: https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Ronin-M/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540209251&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=camera+mount+clamp&psc=1

There are better and worse options, and since I don't know which camera you have at the moment, here is a generic type of mount that could work for the situation.

The background stand:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=E8goB&pf_rd_r=JDNSYA2WH7VPFQXK5NWX&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B072BCNRTY&pd_rd_w=ydei2&pf_rd_i=photo+background+stand&pd_rd_r=78d3d95b-dba0-4370-b6ec-4ba5c7cac38b&ie=UTF8&qid=1540209393&sr=1

This is something cheap that would get the job done, and with the clamp would allow you to position the camera over the table.

However, if the camera is larger than a basic mirrorless a6300, another solution might be in order.

Here is an overhead tripod that might support a bit more weight if you had a full size DSLR:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Magnesium-Aluminium-Overhead-Professional/dp/B073ZC46SL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540209508&sr=1-3&keywords=overhead+camera+tripod

The problem being it doesn't allow for great positioning, just like your current tripod.


Hope these ideas help.

I have a Canon 5D2 that I've carried with a 16-35 and giant tripod (8.6lbs plus a few 3oz batteries) on a one night backpacking trip, and wow too heavy. I'm eyeing an A6000 with a couple primes to replace it for half the weight in camera body and probably a third in lenses. (30oz vs 16oz for just the bodies!) One upside of the heavy FF DSLR setup is the waterproofing, I will need to be more careful with something else.

One of the big reasons I'm getting into ultralight is so I can carry camera gear and not hate hiking. There are also some great point and shoots now, the Sony RX100 series is a great example. The IV is a serious contender vs the A6000 for me.

For most of the action cams they have an interchangeable mount on the waterproof case. Here's a couple options for a backpack mount, and here's a bike mount. As far as I know all the GoPro stuff is cross-compatible with the Yi stuff, it is just a clone after all.

May be overkill, but I got a 2-pack of these "3rd Hands" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

along with these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PICAE4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I preferred them over traditional tripods because these don't take up any space at the base, which was prime real estate in my limited area as it is. These are super easy to use and reposition anywhere. Because they use tension between the floor and ceiling, they are super secure and totally resistant to vibration.

I only wish they came in black so they were a little less obnoxious, but I'm just using my smallish computer room here and not crazy concerned about the aesthetics. They're both snug in the opposite corners of the room. No sticky adhesives, holes, screws, and I have some handy tools now if I ever want to like build a house or something. :)

Hers my setup. Not too detailed; but explains itself: I bought the parts from Amazon. Love it!
https://imgur.com/a/JNDM1

Edit: more details...
FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches, 2-pack #3HAND5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067S12/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_MUaqxbRQG7SBE

And

Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4 Multi-function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp & ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_0Vaqxb4NED9MS

As they mentioned, Gimbal for hiking.

If you're hiking with a backpack already something like this might be better than the chest mount.

Extra batteries or If you're camping out a solar charger would be awesome

I like hikes to rivers or water falls. If you'll be getting in the water I love this floaty for the Hero 4 Sliver It's designed like a smart phone case so you can still use the LCD to frame your shot.

Nature time lapses are cool too, maybe spend $3 and make one of these

It's very hard to find a good camera in that price range. If you have a phone that is less than a couple years old, you're probably better to go that route. That said, if you can afford a GoPro, the guys use a GoPro HERO4 BLACK as a backup camera that would be better than a smartphone in most applications. This model's built in mic is said to be much better than the new model that was just released. If you want to use an external mic, you'll need this adapter. You can also find all of their gear in a post I made here, if you're interested.

Edit: If you decide to use a smartphone, this is a pretty good mic that attaches directly to a phone.

hey! i believe the answer is yes.

i use this now

I used to use this but i snapped it a few times.

the mic i use this one

I have used this combo at music festivals the last 2 years. makes a massive difference on sound quality. you may want a wind sock depending on what your recording environment is like.

good luck!

edit: formatting

edit 2: come check out the GoPro sub!

Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PICAE4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467209420&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=camera+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=412ULVz1zfL&ref=plSrch

And, then something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067S12/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=317WRHR2D7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&psc=1&refRID=HWYJ86ZBQ0AVDTGKKQ6H

There are individual support rods too (the two pack is great if you plan on getting touch though; don't have to buy another one later); just search for "quick support rod" for other options.

It's the setup I am currently using to put the rift camera ceiling height and works great. Seems like some Vive users are doing the same thing too for their tracking stations.

There are floor-to-ceiling poles that extend and stay in place with a very small footprint, but I think they're generally more expensive. You'd need to get a tripod pole mount to stick onto them, as well. I haven't researched them, but you would want something like these poles and these mounts.

I personally am opting for the light stands that /u/libertytoast posted, they seem to be the best bang for your buck, and then you just need a ball-joint attachment for tilting the sensors. I got a more heavy duty one, here.

I swung by Harbor Freight and picked up two cargo/support bars (sufficient if your ceilings are ~9' high or less) and went on Amazon for two camera clamp mounts.

Basically when you wanna get the Vive going you extend both the poles and tighten them up between the ceiling and floor, clamp on the camera mounts, screw on the lighthouses, plug them in and you're ready to play. After the first time setup/breakdown shouldn't be more than a five minute process and the pole packs down to 3¼', so you'll be able to stow it just about anywhere.

Credit goes to /u/stapit for the idea. Of the solutions I've seen for non-permanent mounting this seems like the best for ease of setup/breakdown, stability, and price.

Edit: Also wins on footprint, it takes up much less floor space than a tripod and since it sort of wedges between the ceiling and floor it's arguably more stable, even if you bump into it it's unlikely to fall.

Hi /u/MexicanWithTaco - the camera can be adapted to just about any lens ever made, so it really depends on what you can afford and whether you prefer to shoot manual or auto.

For auto lenses, there are two major choices:

1. Micro 4/3 system lenses from Panasonic, Olympus and Sigma. The least expensive of these (besides the classic [14-42 lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=191134243148&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) that is the earlier version of the [lens that comes with the camera] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7FOVAM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B7FOVAM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)) are the [$199 Sigma 19mm f2.8] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPZCYK8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00BPZCYK8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [Sigma 30mm f2.8] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQXL6OY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00BQXL6OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). You can find them for even less used. These lenses are very good value for your money.
   
   
2. Classic 4/3 lenses from Panasonic, Olympus and Sigma with a [Panasonic MA1 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ISKNKK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001ISKNKK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). These are lenses from the Panasonic/Olympus attempt (about 5 or 6 years ago) to build a standard mirror-box DSLR that would go head to head with Nikon and Canon crop-sensor DSLRs with a slightly smaller sensor and marginally smaller cameras.
   
   In 2009, they went for broke, removed the mirror and created a line of much smaller and lighter mirrorless cameras which, incidentally, turned out to be much better suited for video than DSLRs. But the transition "orphaned" dozens of great 4/3 lenses that, with the adapter, work well with micro 4/3 cameras. I have a [Sigma 18-50mm constant f2.8 lens] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=181378147578&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), for example, that cost me a few hundred dollars instead of the $1000 for a modern [Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00855ZL38/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00855ZL38&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). The autofocus motor is a little noisier and slower than a modern lens, but it costs a lot less.
   
   For manual lenses, there are modern and classic choices as well:
   
   
3. The modern choices are micro 4/3 cinema lenses from SLR Magic; Rokinon/Samyang/Bower and Zeiss. These are cinema-style lenses with gearing for follow focus devices, clickless aperture measured in T-stops rather than f-stops and large silk-screened numbers on the lens barrel to help with focus and aperture setting. These lenses range from [$349 for a Samyang 85mm T1.5] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IVQ6VNK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IVQ6VNK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) to [$23,900 for a Zeiss Compact Zoom] (http://www.adorama.com/searchsite/default.aspx?searchinfo=Zeiss+Compact+Prime+CZ+MFT&KBID=66297).
   
   
4. The classic manual lens choices are almost infinite. You can put just about any lens ever made on a micro 4/3 camera with an inexpensive adapter:
   
   [Nikon G - $23] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
   
   [Canon EOS - $32] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KG4QKC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007KG4QKC&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
   
   [Canon FD - $16] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MDWG68/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003MDWG68&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
   
   [Olympus OM - $22] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TSWTAA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002TSWTAA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
   
   [Leica M - $22] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2IW5I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002X2IW5I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
   
   [M42 - $16] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RJKVY2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002RJKVY2&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
   
   Hope this is helpful!
   
   Bill
   
   

Been playing with 2 sensor 360 tracking on the 2m x 1.5m and has been working good enough for me. Tracking is not perfect obviously as there is a "seam" that will cause a "shift" on the touch controller potentially due to what seems to be a software calibration type of issue. Not a game breaker for me as you just have to be aware of it and adjust accordingly so I am not in between it like when I play Arizona Sunshine and aiming the gun.

My setup uses the 2 support rods diagonally from each with the sensors attach to clamps and up about 6 feet high at about 45 degree angle downward linked to active USB3.0 extension cable. I think your mileage will vary how you setup but here's the list of the setup:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRDD6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also you should use Desk Scene to make sure the sensors truly cover your play space:
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5gy2my/desk_scene_multisensor_update_check_your_cameras/

I got two each of this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRDD6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not the cheapest but it meant I didn't have to drill into the wall and it will be super easy to move / adjust if I ever decide to do that. Plus delivery is pretty quick with Amazon Prime.

Sorry for the late response!

I bought 40 meters worth of ws2812B LED strips (a type of LED strip that can be programmed). You can get these for pretty cheap of Amazon. Then, I used the adhesive on the back of the LEDs to stick them in these special LED mounting racks that I could mount on to some metal storage shelves.

To interface with the LEDs, I'm using a Pixlite Controller like this one. The cool thing about these controllers is that they can output DMX (DMX is the protocol used to control those big fancy lights you see at concerts) in addition to driving LEDs. Then the programming and sequencing is done in Lightjams. In addition to being the best low budget software for LED pixel programing, Lightjams can also be used to program any DMX fixture.

So I got 5 the cheap DMX moving head lights and controlled them with Lightjams too.

I knew if I wanted to pull of this song, I was going to need lasers, but DMX lasers are stupid expensive. Soooo I had to get a little unconventional. I ordered some sketch cheap Chinese lasers that I wired to a DMX relay. I mounted the lasers to the shelves using camera clamps and controlled them in Lightjams too.

Figuring out how to do all this and building it took me about 6 months. Then, programming took another few months. I am actually working on programing an entire set of songs from the Worlds tour. I am nearly done, and it's about an hour long! I'll be sure to post it here when it's done!

I appreciate the interest, let me know if you want any additional info!

IMO the best tool is a clamp with a flexible arm.

It works best because it grips tightly to any solid pole, such as a back fence post. Also assuming the post is straight, you can set up the camera angle low down, then just move the clamp up as high as you can reach for the best angle.

Most of them are made for gopros but they’ll take a mobile mount as well.

I have this, obviously you should be able to get the same in another country: Clamp Mount for Gopro Fusion, Hero 6... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NIBQXGS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

http://www.amazon.com/GoPro-AUCMT-302-Suction-Cup-Mount/dp/B00F19Q7YI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463955388&sr=1-1&keywords=gopro+car+mount
Also this mount is awesome for doing a driving timelapse :) super good and can also be used for other shots as well

I've used that stuff at my job, and the vertical grip strength is ridiculously strong, but horizontal strength isn't that great. Also the adhesive needs to cure for a few minutes before it gets a good grip.

I recommend: something like this instead.

This is what I use, and it works perfectly amazing:

Velcro Command Strips (3 lb holding limit):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW1APOC/

Super lightweight plastic mounts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWA0QLS/

Put a strip on the wall and a strip on the mount, screw the camera head into the mount, and stick it to the wall. Holds perfectly fine. I've never had it fall off or had any problem.

I have a Vive! To set up the lighthouses so that they have practically zero blueprint, buy two 3rd hands (this is a two pack) and two clamps. It's pricey overall, but if you have a Vive you probably can afford it anyways. They'll work perfectly and won't damage anything. Just stick them both in opposite corners, mount the lighthouse near the top using the clamp, and run a wire up to it. You're good to go. Takes up much less real estate than a normal tripod.

Well in that case if you're going to buy tripods anyway, maybe just start with those and see how well they work for you?

I have these poles:

https://www.amazon.de/Wolfcraft-4042000-Deckenstütze-max-belastbar/dp/B001BWT2PA

And these to attach the lighthouses to the poles:

https://www.amazon.de/Kamera-Halterung-Motorrad-Fahrrad-Fotogewinde-Schnellspanner/dp/B00E5M39AW

Tbh. I think they work perfectly fine for me, but I am sure you will be able to find something better. I just bought those because they were cheap and could be delivered quickly and they didn't have horrible reviews ;)

• A suction cup mount is great to mount your GoPro inside and outside of your car. Just make sure to tether it when it's outside. I'd recommend the [GoPro suction cup] (http://amzn.com/B00F19Q7YI)
  
  
• There are a lot of great tripods out there. I have a Slik tripod that I have used with my GoPro and it's great. It's fairly compact and not too heavy. [Slik Tripod] (http://amzn.com/B000HZH6W8)
  
  
• Yeah the battery life isn't great on GoPros. I'm not sure which generation you're planning on buying but if you're going with a 3+, you can get the [Brunton All Day power pack] (http://amzn.com/B00LUKNM5E). If you're going with a Hero 4, the Brunton won't work with those so you could get a [GoPro Battery Bacpac] (http://amzn.com/B00NIYJFRO).
  
  
• You can plug a USB cable into your GoPro while recording. You won't be able to do that with the regular housing though so you'll need [the frame] (http://shop.gopro.com/mounts/the-frame/ANDFR-302.html#/start=1) or the [Skeleton Housing] (http://shop.gopro.com/accessories/skeleton-housing/AHSSK-301.html#/start=1)
  
  
• Always tether. ALWAYS!
  
  
  

If price is not an issue, a number of users reported success with these extendable beams ($70 per pair) coupled with some mounting clamps such as these ones here ($13 each).

A slightly cheaper option would be to get two of these ($26 each), though I haven't seen this one in particular used for the lighthouses yet, it looks like it should work great. Another option would be to use regular old tripods, which many users have also reported success with.

On my desk, I have a 14in Neewer ring light on a table stand. It has a little slot ("cold-shoe") to slide an adaptor in there to put your camera on.

This is the closest thing I can find to what I have for the desk light.

This is the stand

And a fun little pro tip, is I use these quick release plates on my ring light and all my tripods so I can quickly and easily move my camera and have it be stable.


All this being said, a single ring light isn't sufficient lighting. I have 2 softboxes, 2 18in ring lights, a light from below me (to prevent shadows) and then floodlights in reflectors lighting the back of the room and lights behind me (in lamps, behind room divider screens, framing mirrors, etc.) those lights also "dance" to music and I love them so much.

Basically, great lighting = good quality stream.


If you want some pics, let me know. My camroom is a bit trashed at the moment, but I can give you the general idea of what the equipment looks like.

At home I clamp my sensors to 3 tall lamps I got from Walmart. The 4th is clamped to a cupboard handle. The reason I used clamps is so that I could easily disassembled it but it's still a pain to move and put back up especially if you are going to plan for clean wiring. I would suggest evaluating how often you plan to set up away from home to determine if it's worth it. If it's less than a couple times a year it might be better to just bring a desktop. You will end up with more value and power and a better experience for the majority of your time in VR.


The clamps.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00E5M39AW/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483732889&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bike+clamps

That looks awesome. If you want to do something to record audio, you can do what I did.

I bought this frame (forgot I already had one, but when I bought it, it was on sale for $18): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PK9QGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...with this audio cable adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A3MY7L8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...and I use this mic for the audio: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4DGRCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To get a setup that allows me to record MUCH better audio quality than you get with the camera in its normal case. The audio quality still isn't great though from what I've tested while filming fishing out on my boat. If you can afford it, I would get a better quality mic, but that one is enough and better than what the camera can do.

My main camera for the course is a GoPro knock-off, SJCAM SJ5000X Elite, I think. I have a 128GB memory card in it, which is good for maybe 10-12 hours of video at 2k resolution, 30fps. I shoot at the higher resolution so that I can do some framing during editing, and not worry about framing up every single swing while on the course.

The camera is mounted on a clamp mount kind of like This

The clamp is stuck on the handle of a cheap pullcart, because my feet and back don't like lugging the bag around the course anymore. You asked about the hardware, and the pullcart is the real secret. I basically wheel up behind my ball for a "down the line" view, and then play golf. I keep the battery plugged in through the whole round, and just plug it into the camera in "dashcam" mode on the first tee and unplug when I hit the parking lot. Down side of the camera is it doesn't have any audio inputs, so the onboard mic is all you get. The second production run of these cameras (last year?) has a better mic, so the audio is at least usable, but there's a lot of "noise" in the recording.

I power the camera, and recharge my phone on the course from an Anker 10k mAh battery that fits nicely in the cupholder of the pullcart.

I have a nice desktop that I edit on, that is now approaching r/battlestations -worthiness, after several years of moving, and putting it in a spare room, or even keeping it packed away. I edit in Adobe Premiere Pro, and crop down to 1080 from the 2k resolution, which allows most of the swings to be well-framed and watchable.

I was going to try to produce videos about my pursuit of a better swing, or lower scores, or beating my brother in our annual event, but I haven't found a good format that is watchable. I've always been just on the verge of another round of swing lessons, and maybe a club-fitting, but haven't ponied up since I only get to the course like 1-2 times a week now. I don't anticipate the channel taking off at all, because I don't have the personality to make it more watchable, but I still like being able to watch my round afterward.

I don't think there are any universal adapters. They make specific adapters for different brands, including Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Pentax, Olympus OM, and probably others.

From what I can tell, the difference in cost is usually about 2 things:

1.) If the adapter has electrical contacts. If you are using a purely manual vintage lens, the adapter doesn't need these and will be pretty cheap. However, if you are trying to use a modern Nikon or Canon lens on a m43 camera, an adapter with contacts will let the camera and lens talk to each other so you can use auto-focus and on-camera aperture control.

2.) If the adapter has glass in it to work as a focal reducer. As far as I know, the same "multiply by 2" rules normally apply to adapted lenses. A 50mm lens from another manufacturer will act like a 100mm lens on an m43 camera, unless you use a focal reducer, which reduces the focal length and aperture by a certain magnification level.

Also as others have mentioned, while 50mm lenses are cheap and plentiful, wider angle lenses are less common and you may not save any money trying to find a vintage 18mm. So, for example, I bought this simple adapter that lets me fit Olympus OM mount lenses from the days of film on to my E-M10, and I got 24mm 2.8 and 50mm 1.4 lenses to use with it. I don't think I saved all that much money with my purchase--maybe a couple of hundred. But they're fun to shoot with. :)

Thank you for all of the great advice!!

Good idea with the accessory packs. I'm not finding one that includes a GoPro to SAC converter, not that i couldn't buy one separately.

I would need something like this, correct?

clip-on mount, good for backpacks, music stands, belts, anything similar. It does a pretty good job.

Spring clamp. Stick a curved adhesive mount on it and you've got yourself a great clamp mount. A hell of a lot cheaper than the GoPro branded version.

A GoPole or similar. I've got an extending version that I snagged from Best Buy. It does a nice job and is probably the most useful accessory I've got.

Brunton All Day battery. Only fits on a few cases, is not waterproof, but has a ton of battery life. Also, you can charge your phone from it.

I'm sure there's more, but I use these almost every time I use my H3+

Poles like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And pole clamps like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Super easy, movable, adjustable.

Dango Designs Gripper Mount
I’ve seen a lot of youtubers promote these and they actually are really good! I made a short vid with my hero7 on YouTube that shows off the camera angle here . I love it!

There is also the Pro Shot
People also really swear by these. The reason the dango is cool is that it clips onto your mouthpiece so there’s no Velcro or anything once you remove it.

My best guess:

RØDE VideoMic with Rycote Lyre Mount with Deadcat

160 LED Video Light (Or something similar)

Camcorder Stabilizing Handle Grip (Or something similar)

GoPro Jaws Mount

A filter adapter - somtehing like this

GoPro Mic Cable

Quite a nice setup, although I'd be conceerned about shadows from the light on the clamp and gopro, and the chance of the clamp coming off if bumped

In my apartment we use clamp camera mounts (https://amazon.com/dp/B00PICAE4C/) with tension rods (https://amazon.com/dp/B00IF5SY1E/) run vertically (floor-to-ceiling) with the cables wrapped down around the pole. While the pole is more of a visible 'thing' than just a tiny wall or ceiling mount, it gives a natural place for the cables to run (versus just down the wall) which IMO makes it look much better than any of the other options (at least for us renters who can't run cables inside the walls).

Less ideal for tracking but more minimal, I've also seen people mount their two front cameras on the back of the top two corners of their big screen tv or wall mounted in this location along with a wall-mounted TV, and having the cables run down the back of the tv with the other tv cables.

Another option is to ceiling mount sensors above or just in-front of curtains for a window or sliding-glass-door and run the cables along the top and side of the window/door frame completely covered by the curtains.

---

Aesthetically in many cases it is pretty much the same whether you're running a usb cable down from an Oculus Sensor or a power cable down from a Vive lighthouse--either way you have to run a single black cable down the wall from mount height to floor height (the aesthetically challenging bit) and then cables along the baseboard (which is easier/not a big deal by comparison).

I do a VR night at a local pub and have used the mounts I'll link below also. They do a great job. Also if you don't want to use your stock lighthouse electric adapters (I can't use mine because I have them ran under wire covers) these work great also. Just will need an extension cord.

Smatree Ajustable Jaws Flex Clamp Mount 13.4" Gooseneck Extension for GoPro Hero 5/4/3+/3/2/1/Session / for Ricoh Theta S, M15 Cameras/ for Compact Cameras(1/4" thread) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B-pHybZNRWQJA

ALED LIGHT® 12 Volt 3 Amp LED Strip Light Power Adapter, AC to DC, 2.1mm X 5.5mm Plug, Regulated 12v 3a Power Supply Wall Plug for LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_a1sWXNPht7UyF

There are cheap pairs you can find on amazon for about $35-40. I ordered a pair but was unhappy with the amount of wobble when extended at max height. Now returning those, I ended up spending a bit more for quality, these are the best I found. IMO, it's worth investing a bit more for something sturdy and quality built.

I have a shelf as well which this clamp will work nicely.

I have the "fastcap 3rd hand" pole which is the same thing. It works great and is probably the best option for non-permanent installs.
This is the pole clamp I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW

If your friend's dad ends up with a Q8 or other light with a tripod socket, you should explore some mounting options for his wheelchair.

Look around at the products labeled 'magic arm mount' or 'articulating camera clamp.' There are many designs. Here's one example on Amazon with dual ballheads to get you started.

Most of them have small knobs that take a bit of force to lock firmly into place, so take that into consideration.

You might also find something with a quick-release that could be left on the Q8. That would make it easier to mount/dismount from the wheelchair.

Be sure your friend buys quality 18650 batteries from a trusted seller!

Yes :) here they are:

Handle: link

Mounting plate: link

Manfrotto Quick Release Plate : link

Follow focus: link

Rods(16" & 6") link

Handlegrip: link

Lens support: link

Shoulder pad: link

Rod clamp: link

Cold Shoe mount: link

To hold the battery I used this rod clamp: link and this plate: link

Battery: link

To connect the battery to the BMPCC 4k I used these cables and the charging cable from the camera to make an adapter: link to cables

Magic arm to hold the monitor: link

Samsung SSD 500gb: link

SSD holder: link

Monitor: link

HDMI cable: link

BMPCC 4k cage: link

I'm using the Sigma 18-35mm (Nikon) and the Viltrox 0.71X Lens Mount Adapter: link

I think that's it :)

I got this one which is similar http://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Session-Silver-Compact-Cameras/dp/B00NIBQXGS/

It's very sturdy but the clamping force was too strong to use on my monitor bezel. I thought it was going to break something. Might be good on a shelf or something like that. I couldn't find a "universal webcam mount" with a 1/4-20 anywhere, which I thought was kinda weird.

I purchased this tracker, which says it has "AccuAligning dark-field illuminated polar scope". I haven't received it in the mail yet so I'm not sure about finding polaris in the scope, but I do have a Sky Guide app for my iPhone which shows me where everything in the sky is, if that is what you mean.

I will turn off NR and I do have live view for my XE-2. The lens is not a zoom lens, just straight 150mm. It is extremely high quality, it is a $3000 lens on the level of hasselblad that I got for a very good price. I am concerned about focusing, should I shoot some photos of stars then zoom in on the preview to see if they are in focus? Then adjust accordingly. I always shoot RAW, yes.

Oh, and thank you very much for the help.

I bring my gopro almost everywhere and 90% of the time I either use this clip or just have the camera with no mounts/accessories. The clip is very strong, I put it on my backpack straps all the time, even trust it mountain biking or riding my motorcycle.

Do yourself a favor and buy the frame, it's a lot lighter than the waterproof case and you can get better audio.

Also, be careful with roller coasters, most places will not let you bring it on and if they see you with it will kick you out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3GI8Y6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My setup uses 3rd Hand Support System and clamp mount and it's worked great. I've moved it a few times and haven't worried about the effort at all.

I use these bad boys and they're the shit.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided&utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

Then use these to attach the lighthouses:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5M39AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_39sSzbMJP3K65

They screw in perfectly on the lighthouses. These make it extremely easy to reposition and pack up if you need to. I've taken these on vacation and you can basically set them up anywhere. In my experience, I haven't noticed any difference in tracking between using these or wall-mounting. Worth the $50-$60 for sure.

Today my second mounting clamp and rod came in. After trying several heights and angles, and testing with the desk demo I found that tracking was perfect from top to bottom except when facing the very edge of my bottom left room corner while my hands are in front of me. In which case my body completely covers my motion controllers and a third camera would still not be able to help since my room is too small /cluttered to cover that specific angle. The biggest thing that helped was NOT mounting the cameras as high as possible, as it is suggested by some users. The higher they are, the farther away they are, and being cameras and limited by resolution, being too far away (too high) results in jitter/unstable tracking. I ended up mounting them at about 7 feet high. I suggest a rod/clamp solution as it allows you to quickly test and make small adjustments, and using this setup allows you to move the cameras in every way possible (6 degrees of freedom). Here is the exact rod and clamp I'm using for those interested. Obviously any similar rod/clamp will work.

Despite what the other comment says, it is not ARCA, those plates won't fit.

For most consumer tripods, there are two plate systems that are very common. Arca-Swiss which is used by a ton of brands and has a lot of accessories, all based on a clamp from the sides design. Manfrotto uses a 200PL/RC-2 system for most of their tripods.

Basically everything else, including the one you picked up, uses it's own proprietary mounting. A lot of times it's semi-generic like with yours. This might work too, you basically need it slopped on at least two sides to fit into the hinge side as well as the locking lever size.

This is basically the Amazon branded version of what you have, or similar in Sunpak. Something like this or this would be a substantial step up.

I believe that most people drill them into the wall. You can use the mounts they come with for that and it's probably the closest thing to the 'official' way. That's just a case of put mounts on wall in appropriate place, make markings on holes, drill the holes and put in provided (or other) wall plugs, screw the mount on. Other people put them on tripod-like stands.

I've seen people put them on shelves/etc but in theory I believe they're supposed to be tilted down slightly which could be an issue on a cupboard. You could buy clamps if you've anything to clamp them on.

You could potentially mount them on a heavy L shaped piece of wood or something like that if that would go on top of a wardrobe or the like.

Lighthouses do vibrate slightly, so whatever method you use, it should be secure.

• Your sleeping bag is way overkill, and seemingly heavy. if you're 3 seasons camping in the PNW and other places, odds are you won't see much below freezing, if at all, overnight.
  
  
• That's a huge pot, 3.7L? are you cooking for a crowd all the time? get a smaller pot, usually 1L is enough for most personal use.
  
  
• Swap nalgene bottle with a smartwater bottle instead.
  
  
• Your clothing list looks decent, but probably overkill unless it's early/late season or foul weather. You probably won't need base layer, mid-layer and a shell. unless you're hanging out around camp, a light base layer and rain/wind shell should be enough to keep you warm while moving down below freezing.
  
  
• consider trading trail runners for boots. if you're hiking where it gets wet, look at waterproof socks (under your shoes) or just bring a dry pair of sleeping socks
  
  
• ditch the tripod and get a smaller one, such as something like this: Link
  
  
• 88L backpack is huge, you're probably using a small portion of that. put all of your gear into a large cardboard box, and measure its total volume to see what pack size you really need. Consider contents' weight as well.

Depends on how hight the ceiling is at your friends...

If it is normal height, then something like these are the best from what I read...

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467363597&sr=8-3&keywords=ceiling+support

the lighthouses can then be mounted on the supports with 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467363860&sr=8-3&keywords=camera+mount+clamp


I personally bought 2 light stands similar to these because I have a heigher ceiling that the supports can reach
https://www.amazon.com/StudioPRO-Photography-Stands-Carrying-Studio/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=sr_1_8?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1467363968&sr=1-8&keywords=light+stand

and I mount the lighthouses on them with 2 of these...

https://www.amazon.com/Cullmann-Adapter-Camera-Screw-Capacity/dp/B00PGMCBP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1467364096&sr=1-2&keywords=cullmann+ball+head

It works, but I always fear someone running against the stands while playing , knocking them over. Much better should be the first solution, it also has a smaller footprint using less space than the light stands

My experience with handlebar mounts is to try to keep the device too far from the handlebars. Depending on the weight of the device, the vibration of the handlebars and wind increases dramatically if it's too high from the handlebars. I personally don't think damping solutions like sponges would really help stability. I use this cheap camera mount for my onboard video. When I had my heavy digital camera on it, video kind of sucked, but when I bought my Contour and put it on the same mount, it turned out a lot better. And yes I know it doesn't help that I ride a thumper =p

I like helmet mounts more because of the flexibility, but if you don't have a separate mic or something to cut the wind noise, those videos won't have your nice engine sound except at stops.

Tripods or building support systems (combined with a clamp) seem to be the common solution to prevent drilling.

I've also mounted one of my base stations on top of a bookshelf using duct tape and this also works perfectly, though you'll need a shelf in the neighbourhood of your play area in order to be able to do this.

I wouldn't risk just taping them to a wall though. I've been contemplating to use a combination of industrial two-sided tape and nails (much thinner than a screw and it thus makes only very small holes in the wall) but decided to drill in the end, just to be safe.

Here’s links for uk amazon, will give you an idea of what to search if you’re based elsewhere.

Link for the telescopic poles: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LFVE68?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Link for the clamp mount: CamKix Clamp Mount compatible... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NIBQXGS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The clamp mounts aren’t the best tbh, but they work. They were only £10 so may be worth spending a bit more for some better ones.

Hey everyone,

I can't drill my walls currently, so I need to buy something as a mounting solution for the time being. I am going to purchase this pole with this clamp and I was wondering if there is anything else I need to buy.

Also, one last question, I have heard that the nintendo wii wrist straps are the best ones to get, so would this version be the correct one to purchase?

Thanks in advance.

The only camera gear he carried:

Canon 7D mk1, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 ART, 3 batteries+charger, 4 CF cards, Pedco Ultrapod, and a camera-to-iPhone adapter (he edited his social media photos on the fly via VSCO app). So once again for the gearheads, pretty great photos for a camera released 2009. :)

I would either keep what you have and not buy a lens, or buy the 25mm f/1.7 with the intent of selling at least one of your lenses to offset the cost.

Here are a few things I have and use:

• short plug - traveling with the long gray cable the charger comes with is a pain. This plug will work in the US, Thailand and China.
  
• peak design capture - I wear a backpack when traveling, this makes my camera always accessible.
  
• travel tripod - If you want a travel tripod and aren't sure that you'll use it, this is a decent choice. If you get this and the pd capture, you'll also want an arca-swiss compatible clamp.
  
  Other notes:
  
  You'll get about 3 hours of camera on-time. To get better battery life, turn off your camera when not taking pictures.
  
  To start, try to align 2 things in a picture: the subject of the photo, and having a pleasing/interesting background. A wide aperture can help with that, but isn't required.
  
  Try to get some practice taking pictures before you go, practice really helps.
  
  Starting out, try shooting in RAW+JPEG.
  
  Beyond that, have fun and take lots of pictures!

From the page:

> I use it in my car with a small clamp (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PICAE4C) on my handbrake, but it is compatible with any GoPro-style mounting device you like.

Though I left out the part that attaches the body to the mount and just glued on a metal pad for the magnet. Works pretty well. Your setup may vary based on your car.

I'm using these to ceiling mount my sensors and they work great, though they stick on there pretty good and might take the paint off if you have to remove them.

Man I did the same thing! I went from 32+1's to 33+2's and it's been a complete game changer. Enjoy.

As for camera, here's what I got because it had the best battery life of everything I saw: Campark + this housing

Just note that it doesn't come with a MicroSD card so get that as well or in advance of it coming.

Instead of tripods, I'm using some very long shower curtain rods.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L43HT2E/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

and pipe clamps:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_1

It works like a charm, easy to set up and move if needed, and is a lot more compact than using a tripod :)

Ah yes, that gold screw thingy is a standard tripod mount, I'm sure there will be something to fit it, perhaps something like this. The plastic bit with the hole in it is the GoPro format, so presumably you'd just be able to plop your included bracket into that, assuming they are the same size screw. I searched "GoPro tripod adapter" to find that, btw, just in case you want to look for others to make sure you get the right one.

e: the gopro mounting can be a tiiiny bit expensive, but they're really good and there are tons of adapters for lots of cameras if you ever want to switch to a different make or model, so generally a good idea.

Pretty much this.

I ordered one shipment of these (comes with 2):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/

and I ordered two of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW

They work great and take up hardly any space at all.

If you have a pretty high ceiling or a ceiling that is angled I would not recommend this setup. I tried setting it up on an angled ceiling and caught it as it fell a minute or two after setting it up.

This:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2-Sides-Adjustable-U-style-Mobile_60095147404.html
https://www.amazon.com/Arkon-GoPro-Connection-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00IQ7PRHU

Something like this for phone: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2-Sides-Adjustable-U-style-Mobile_60095147404.html

just get that on aliexpress almost for free ... I have some holders and mounts from there and it works pretty much as original ...

So I'm trying to get a good handle on the roomscale setup.

I understand that oculus thinks 2 in the front and one in the corner is the best setup with 13ft max from the furthest sensor, but what about height from the floor? I didn't see anything about that. I like to use something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPRLV8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that one reddit user mentioned on the walls.

Does all 3 need to be the same height? My option for a holder for the 3rd sensor would be a tripod or the corner of the room but not sure yet if that is 13ft or not.

I got a couple of some extendable bars that I clamped my base stations to. I really like this solution, because it hardly takes up any horizontal space and they can't be accidentally moved around as easily as a tripod. The only issue I could see with these is a vaulted ceiling.

(I heard of these from another thread in /r/vive and I think it's a great solution.)

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PICAE4C/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

Raspberry Pi 2 B+ (Older versions are barely powerful enough for streaming 1080p): http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-Project-Board/dp/B00T2U7R7I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452140774&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+2+b%2B

RaspiCam: http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-5MP-Camera-Board-Module/dp/B00E1GGE40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452140727&sr=8-1&keywords=raspicam

Extra cable for the camera: https://www.adafruit.com/products/2144

This camera holder: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1434

This flexible camera mount: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage


Follow the steps here: https://www.reddit.com/r/raspberry_pi/comments/2ahzp2/raspberry_pi_encoder_live_streaming_to_youtube/

The most important step is to download ffmpeg crosscompiled for arm from here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0OC20ApqKZ_YVB3NHF6VU9XTUE/edit?usp=sharing

Then you can use my script:
./video.sh "Your custom message can go here"

!/bin/bash

SERVER="rtmp://a.rtmp.youtube.com/live2"
KEY="YOUR YOUTUBE KEY GOES HERE"

while true; do pkill -9 raspivid; pkill -9 ffmpeg; raspivid -o - -t 0 -ISO 100 -ev 0 -w 1920 -h 1080 -fps 25 -b 5500000 -g 50 -awb off -awbg 1.7,1.8 -st -ae 64,0xff,0x808000 -a "$1" -a 1025 | /home/pi/arm/bin/ffmpeg -re -ar 44100 -ac 2 -acodec pcm_s16le -f s16le -ac 2 -i /dev/zero -f h264 -i - -vcodec copy -acodec aac -ab 160k -g 50 -strict experimental -f flv $SERVER/$KEY; done

I am a first-time owner (just got the GoPro HERO4 Session) and will be using my GoPro during an upcoming trip to Iceland. I have been experimenting using it in different lighting and such, but I feel like there is still much to learn. What are some pitfalls that I should avoid, and is there any advice anyone can offer an inexperienced GoPro user? I will be using it during a variety of activities like dogsledding, snorkeling, and overall vacation debauchery.

edit: As of right now, the accessories I own are the Fast Clamp and the Floating Hand Grip

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the threads are the same as camera/tripod threads, so any 1/4" camera mount will work. You could get an adhesive one like this or one of the other varieties if you don't think you'll need the double hinge.

I ordered a male-to-female ball joint to get mine at a sharper angle due to mounting it in the middle of a wall in a narrow room. It arrives tomorrow, so if no one else verifies that this will work, I'll let you know tomorrow.

> What have you found to be the best way to mount your sesors.

The Vive comes with wall mounts for the lighthouses - you can just screw them to the walls.

However, as I mentioned in my other post in this thread, I have to move my kit between a couple of rooms, so I opted for 2 of these along with 2 of these. The poles are quick to release and re-position, and take up minimal floor space. So far I'm happy with the choice, even if it does make the room look ever so slightly like a building site!

Quad here as well. In your next video, if it's a solid hobby search for a used GoPro camera. You can use a headband camera mount, which made me feel weird, but got the job done (see below) Or a bicycle/handlebar mount that can hook to your footrest or frame of the chair. Thanks for the ride.

My headband ride

Assuming handlebar mount ride

My fav, power soccer

​

If you had enough money to spend on a Vive then spend a little more on these extension poles and clamps. Like me I guarantee you will be happy that you went the extra mile as you will no longer be restricted in mounting them, nor will you lose space like you would with tripods and your Vive will gain portability. They have longer ones if you have high ceilings as well also check out our wiki for other mounting solutions just kidding where the fuck did that page for it go?

https://www.amazon.ca/Adhesive-Mobius-Action-Camera-Standard/dp/B00DWA0QLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511406835&sr=8-1&keywords=camera+mount+adhesive

something like that would work perfectly fine. Just unscrew the sensor from the pole and then thread it into the wall mount instead. any standard 1/4" mount will work fine.

Can't say this is the best of the best, but I use these:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005V35J7K/

in combination with these (sadly no longer available):

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/

Works like a charm for me.

I have a similar problem. Dual monitors but they're vertically stacked.

What I've done with my DK2 camera is clamp it with this mount to a curtain rod and it's been working wonderfully. It's even delivered an alright standing experience. Especially for DK2. I can't wait to get my CV1 camera up there. It's at the kind of height that'd be recommended for lighthouse base stations.

For those who would rather just throw money at the problem, here are products you can buy from Amazon to get to a similar setup without having to DIY anything:


FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches, 2-pack #3HAND5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/


Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4 Multi-function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp & Standard 1/4" Screw - 1138

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/


Props for a good low cost solution, though!

I got one of each to give myself some flexibility, both have worked great so far.

Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4

Smallrig® Clamp Mount V1

I use these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounted on these without the trays installed

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014X7ARI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just set them up in each corner of my play area easy to take down if needed.

​

Index kit also comes with wall mount brackets if you are looking for a permanent solution and are not scared of drilling holes in the wall.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS

Love them so far. They are super adaptable.

Sounds like a similar situation to mine. I've been using separate seated (in my small computer room) and room-scale (in the lounge, next room) since the beginning. However, I don't use any extra base stations, instead using some [quick release plates] (https://amzn.com/B000JLK5PU), [DC switches] (https://amzn.com/B01CWNMB86), and extra DC adapters. Changing positions is just a matter of turning it off and unlocking at the original position, relocking and turning on at the new position, then going through Steam's room setup. The process is relatively quick, although going back to room-scale takes a little longer (it would be great if Steam added a way to 'save' profiles).

The first option is to go without a housing at all, and instead get a frame. The latest frame nicely snaps out too, but around 40$ USD or so. The next option, is to look into an external microphone with the microphone attachment that goes through the micro USB port.

Using this adapter and a standard microphone. The hard part however, I think is mounting the mic onto the housing/frame so that you don't have to stand there all day with the mic in your hand.

If you check out /r/goproDIY there are a few rigs made by some who have attached mics to mounts.

I used these stands FastCap 3rd Hand Support... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000067S12?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And these clamps Grifiti Nootle Quick Release... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00E5M39AW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And I couldn't be happier with the result. Very highly recommend. Way better than freestanding tripods because they press against ceiling and floor for ultimate stability, preventing loss of tracking during play, and they take up virtually no space if you set them up in the opposite corners of the room.

Chances are you'll want to angle them down for optimal coverage. You can mount them directly into concrete/brick. Just drill with a masonry bit and use anchors.

However, as another user pointed out if you are putting up shelves and they are wood you could just attach the mounting bracket right to the shelving or purchase a clamp mount like this, this or this. The bolt size is a 1/4 20 which is the standard for consumer cameras tripod mounts so you can find tons of mounting options out there.

If you search a bit you can find tons of mounting alternative threads like this.

I found this clamp quite useful on my holiday to Bali:
https://www.amazon.com/Clamp-Session-Silver-Compact-Cameras/dp/B00NIBQXGS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483327162&sr=8-5&keywords=gopro+clamp

For a 5 day trip 32gb might be enough, but if you are filming 2.7k or 4k protune (which you should), then 64gb would be safer.
As for a spare battery, I guess it depends on how long you will be filming for at a time. I was fine with just the one battery and a battery pack (which I didn't use much) on my trip.

I use something like this. It has the advantage to be extremely small and lightweight. It has the drawbacks of requiring an elevated point to mount both of them where you will play, and that those mounting points must be adapted so that the pliers will get a good grip on them. I bought mine from Amazon.

I have a very old one like the smaller version of this and have used it everywhere. Night shots in Venice, sunset at the Grand Canyon, etc. I use a mirrorless, so the larger version is probably better for a regular DSLR.

I had it plugged in to a 20,000mAh Anker battery: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Qualcomm-Backwards-Compatible/dp/B01J5P98SK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484783749&sr=8-2&keywords=anker+20%2C000

Do it!!

Some people carry poles/totems, and hang them on those, and some get the headband or chestband, but I got a little clip that worked great on my camelbak strap: https://www.amazon.com/General-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Action-Camera/dp/B00K3GI8Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484783813&sr=8-3&keywords=gopro+clip+mount

I used these poles and these clamps. They are perfect and I haven't had any problems with them at all :)

Smallrig has a few to choose from. I like something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Ronin-M/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492636247&sr=8-4&keywords=smallrig+arm

But they have other arms like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Smallrig-Articulating-Rosette-Standard-Threaded/dp/B00NW6HDAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492636247&sr=8-1&keywords=smallrig+arm

Just search for articulating arms on Amazon and see what else it out there.

You could get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Clamp-Session-Silver-Compact-Cameras/dp/B00NIBQXGS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480876034&sr=8-4&keywords=Gopro+clamp
I'm using one similar to that perfectly fine

This is the one I've been using. It has screws to make sure it doesn't come off, and it has a safety lever to remove the camera if you want. It's been awesome so far.

PolarPro StrapMount BackPack / LifeVest / SCUBA Mount for GoPro Hero5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJI8OVK/

Which GoPro do you have? In any case you can find ready made adapters that will get you your radio/intercom audio on the video but they're all way overpriced in my opinion (~$50). You can do it yourself for way cheaper. If you have an older GoPro that has a 3.5mm audio port you can just get something like this and this and you'd be all set. Just run the cable from the splitter into your GoPro mic port (if you don't have a passenger just plug the cable straight into that side for better audio and don't use the splitter). If you have a new GoPro like I do that has the USB mic port you'll need this too.

Full disclosure I haven't had an opportunity to try this yet in the airplane but I see no reason why it wouldn't work perfectly.

So far so good. I've only been using it a few weeks and still learning all the focus modes as It's entirely different than my Canon. With that being said, I definitely have quite a few keeper photos that were able to be edited quite well in Lightroom. I bought a small table top tripod that came in handy at the dark Salt Cathedral Mine north of Bogota and I'm impressed with how the photos turned out.

I miss the Canon a bit, but I can't deny the pocketability of this camera. It's nice to be more discreet and literally being able to pocket this thing. I think the reason I miss the Canon now is I'm still learning the Sony controls; I can do Canon controls in my sleep. I may not miss the Canon at all once I've had more field time, but we shall see.

For wide angle stuff, there are some pretty affordable solutions.

A small tracker like this: http://www.amazon.com/iOptron-3302B-SkyTracker-Camera-Mount/dp/B00EFRN1GE would allow exposures of a couple minutes with a wide angle lens and just replaces a tripod head.

I've been using these for a few months now with very good tracking results. I like the small footprint and adjustability/mobility that they allow. They do cost a little more than some other options, but I really like the setup.

http://imgur.com/a/rUyBN

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067S12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

An external microphone would surely help with the audio issues you're having. Something like this set on a small tripod out of frame might do the trick.

I used [this](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics\-Strap\-Camera\-Mount\-GoPro/dp/B00R4YCKIK/ref=sr\_1\_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526424658&sr=8\-3&keywords=gopro\+head\+strap](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Strap-Camera-Mount-GoPro/dp/B00R4YCKIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526424658&sr=8-3&keywords=gopro+head+strap) head strap and it worked pretty well. If you play a drum you'll have to angle it like straight down. If you want to see the video PM me.

edit: formatting fail fixed

Adhesives don't work great, try one of these instead. I've had great luck with them and they don't take up all the room a tripod does:

https://www.amazon.com/UltraClamp-Assembly-Cameras-Binoculars-1-5-inch/dp/B000ABB4HC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482970706&sr=8-2&keywords=camera+clamps

https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Standard/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482970706&sr=8-3&keywords=camera+clamps

There are a few other similar types hit up the search phrase camera clamps on amazon.

Or similar to these : https://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Threaded-Compatible-Microphone-Motorcycle/dp/B00PICAE4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=camera+mount+clamp&qid=1563028578&s=gateway&sprefix=camera+mount&sr=8-4

Double check thread sizing, but I'm pretty sure it's a standard for cameras.