Reddit mentions: The best car amplifier power & ground cables
We found 89 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier power & ground cables. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 26 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. KnuKonceptz Kolossus 8 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
- Over sized Tinned Oxygen Free Copper Power Cable
- 20' 14 Gauge OFC Speaker wire
- 17' OFC RCA Coaxial Shieled RCA Cable
- Fuse holder with 60A Mini-ANL Fuse
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
2. RoadPro – 25' Hardwire Replacement 2 Wire 22-Gauge Parallel Wire
22-Gauge Parallel WireHeavy-Duty Strain ReliefsCheck Proper Polarity (+/-) Before ConnectingUsed to Replace Power Cords on Most CB Radios
Specs:
Color | Black/Red |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Size | 25 Foot |
Number of items | 1 |
3. Rockville RWK4CU 4 AWG Gauge 100% Copper Complete Amp Installation Wire Kit OFC
- Looking for a wire kit that has 100% true specifications? A wire kit that uses 100% copper 4-gauge cable? Then look no further than the Rockville True-Spec RWK4-CU 4 Gauge Amplifier Wiring Installation Kit.
- The power and ground cables aptly named “Mega Power Cable” is a no compromise power cable. Rockville’s engineering team over-built and designed the cables using thousands of strands of only true 100% oxygen-free, silver-tinned copper strands.
- The use of a proprietary special twisting process reduces “surface skin impedance loss” so that Mega Power cables have zero signal and power loss, delivering full power from your battery system to your amplifier even at lengths of 20 feet!
- The 100% copper stranded wire is extremely tolerant of the hostile conditions found under the hood in vehicles and compensates for vibration, heat expansion and flexibility.
- Features:..Rockville RWK4CU 4 Gauge 2 Channel Complete Car Amplifier Installation Kit 100% Pure Copper RCA Cables.4 Gauge Power Amplifier Installation Kit.Designed specifically for car audio systems over 1000 watts RMS to 2000 Watts.
- This package includes everything you'll need to get your amplifier system powered-up correctly and at peak efficiency. All items included in this kit are top of the line.
- Made from silver-tinned 100% virgin copper for a pure uninterrupted transfer of power and signal.The solid brass gold plated Mini ANL Fuse Holder offers ideal protection for high powered systems.Strand Count: 1862.BC-5W2 Compliant.
- This flexible and well-shielded wire is crucial for getting through all of the nooks and passageways within the confines of a vehicle interior.
- The increased current flow and higher amperage carrying capacity will increase your amplifiers efficiency and keep your amplifier running cooler. The SuperFlex outer insulating jacket jacket makes installation and cable routing simple and easy.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 7.5 Inches |
Weight | 5 Pounds |
Width | 7.5 Inches |
Size | 4 Gauge |
Number of items | 608 |
4. RadioShack Audio System Ground Loop Isolator (Electric hum noise reducer)
Improves the clarity of multiple-component sound system by reducing electric hum from within your home or engine/altenator noise from your car.Mounts easily without screw or hardwareGold-plated connectors enhance performance and resist corrosionIncludes Y-adapter with 1/8" mini plug for use with a p...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Weight | 0 Pounds |
Width | 3.8 Inches |
Size | Small |
5. Monoprice 106909 Four Channel Ground Loop Isolator
- Isolate and eliminate noise caused by a ground loop in an audio circuit with this Four-Channel Ground Loop Isolator
- The isolator ensures that the shield ground on each audio cable is isolated from any equipment ground which could cause audible noise when amplified
- The nominal input power is 50 watts with a maximum power level of 100 watts
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.89999997615814 Inches |
Length | 3.9000000953674 Inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
6. NVX 100% Copper 4-Gauge Car Amp Install Kit w/ 2-Channel RCA, Up to 1000 Watts RMS [XKIT42]
- Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit for Amplifiers Up To 1500 Watts RMS
- 100% (OFC) Oxygen Free Copper with Pre-terminated seamless power and ground ring terminals
- ANL/Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 100 amp fuse
- CEA-2015 and BC5W2 Compliant
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 1.97 Inches |
Length | 11.81 Inches |
Width | 9.65 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
7. NVX Professional Grade True Spec 1/0 Gauge 100% OFC Wire Big 3 Amp Wiring Update Kit for Car Audio Systems up to 350 Amps [XBG3PK]
- High-Quality 100% OFC Wiring - Our wires are made with 100% Oxygen-Free Copper with NO aluminum blend, unlike some of our competitors. Advantages to OFC include increased conductivity to carry more current, reduced strain on your vehicle’s electrical system, and improved heat absorption. Our wire is also silver tinned, which helps prevent the wires from corroding over time.
- Designed By Installers for You - Each “Big 3 Kit” is specially designed and curated by professional installers. Each feature in the wiring kit was carefully chosen by these audio professionals. If anyone should know the challenges and headaches of installation kits, it would be them. Here at NVX, we look to them to design our kits, allowing us to bring these features to each of our customers. We had a very high level of attention to detail when engineering these kits.
- Make Your Electrical System Run More Efficiently - The NVX XBG3PK is a much more effective solution rather than installing a capacitor. This is also a mandatory upgrade when you are upgrading to a high-output alternator. This kit will help eliminate issues with dimming lights, give you deeper bass, and allow your amplifier to run cooler and make it less likely to go into protection mode.
- EnvyFlex Insulation - NVX power and ground wire use EnvyFlex insulation, allowing for greater flexibility, making it much easier to work with.
- What's Included - 4' 1/0 AWG Ground Cables w/ Ring Terminal (x 2), 6' 1/0 AWG Power Cable w/ Ring Terminal (x 1), Black Nylon Cable Clamps (x 10), 1/2" #8 Wafer Head Tek Screws (x 10), 8" Black Zip Ties (x 10), & Additional Ring Terminals (x 3)
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 15 Inches |
Width | 11.5 Inches |
8. BNTECHGO 10/12/14/16/18 Gauge Silicone Wire 600V 30 feet(3ft Black and 3ft Red: 10 AWG,12 AWG,14 AWG,16 AWG and 18 AWG) Flexible High Temperature Resistant Electric Wire Strands of Tinned Copper Wire
- BNTECHGO 10/12/14/16/18 Gauge Silicone Wire - Super Flexible - Strands of 0.08mm Tinned Copper Wire - Highly Efficient - Super Low Impedance.
- 2 Colors,3ft Black and 3ft Red: 10 AWG,12 AWG,14 AWG,16 AWG and 18 AWG.
- High Temperature Resistant Silicone Wire,Temp: -60 degree Celsius +200 degree Celsius.
- Rated Voltage: 600V.
- Also Available BNTECHGO's 10 colors silicone wire spool: 16 Gauge,18 Gauge,20 Gauge,22 Gauge,24 Gauge,26 Gauge,28 Gauge and 30 Gauge High Performance Silicone Wire In Our Amazon Store.
Features:
Specs:
Color | 10-18 gauge silicone wire red and black |
Size | 10-18 gauge silicone wire each color 3ft |
9. KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge OFC Power Amp Wiring Kit
- 5145 Strands of Tinned Oxygen Free Copper
- Ultra Flex PVC
- Application includes Auto, Truck and Marine.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 11 Inches |
Width | 8 Inches |
10. InstallGear 8 Gauge 25ft Black and 25ft Red Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
- 8 GAUGE 50-FEET (15.24m) BLACK & RED CCA POWER GROUND WIRE: Top quality, true to gauge power ground wire generates the appropriate power transfer needed for your next wiring project. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the cable. Thicker cable presents less resistance to current flow.
- COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM (CCA): High quality stranded CCA wire offers strong power transfer performance, while remaining lightweight with maximum flexibility. CCA wire offers uncompromised quality at an economical price. Depending on the power transfer necessary, consider Installgear's premium Oxygen-Free Pure Copper (OFC) wiring options.
- RUGGED PVC JACKET FOR MAXIMUM FLEXIBILITY & DURABILITY: Low memory, flexible soft-touch jacket material is perfect for routing in hard to reach places. Highly durable automotive grade wire (GPT) is resistant to extreme temperatures, liquid, oil, gas, abrasions and high impact.
- EASY POLARITY IDENTIFICATION: Differently colored jackets allow for easy polarity identification to prevent polarity mistake issues that can lead to potential audio equipment damages.
- QUALITY WIRING FOR YOUR NEXT PROJECT: Installgear's priority is providing high quality products for all of your wiring needs - car speaker equipment, home stereo system, RV trailer, solar panel wiring projects and more. Installgear is not responsible for improper use of gauge.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red + Black |
Height | 3.58 Inches |
Length | 4.8 Inches |
Width | 4.21 Inches |
Size | 8 Gauge (25ft) |
11. 4-Gauge Clear Black Ground Wire - 25 Ft. 4 AWG Gauge, Economy Oxygen-Free Copper Cable Wire w/ Flexible & Bendable Jacket, Translucent Matte Insulator, Chemical & Heat-Resistant - Pyramid RPB425
Pyle RPB425 4 GA 25Black Car Audio Ground Wire 4 Gauge 25 FtPyle.Extremely flexible and bendable jacket
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. 12 GA Primary Power Ground Wire (4) 100FT Rolls Boat CAR 12-80 Volt Multi Color
- Please note that you will receive colors of our choosing from our defaults at the time, no color requests may be made for specific colors.
- Please note that you will receive colors of our choosing from our defaults at the time, no color requests may be made for specific colors.
- 12 Gauge, 100' FT, Single Conductor, Remote, Turn on, Hook Up Wire. Stranded Copper Clad Aluminum. Excellent for any 6 VOLT - 80 VOLT application.
- THIS IS NOT AWG AMERICAN WIRE GAUGE.
- Flexible, Insulated, and Jacketed in PVC. Perfect for Car Audio, Home Theatre, Automotive.
Features:
13. KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex Kable 8 Gauge Power Wire Black OFC
- 805 Strands of Tinned Oxygen Free Copper
- Ultra Flex Black PVC
- Application includes Auto, Truck and Marine.
- Sold in 10 foot increments - enter the length as quantity ( 1 unit = 10 feet, 3 units = 30' )
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Weight | 0.09 Pounds |
Size | 10 Feet |
14. 18 GAUGE WIRE RED & BLACK POWER GROUND 50 FT EACH PRIMARY STRANDED COPPER CLAD
***We are in the process of transitioning remote wires to our own brand. You may receive wires with the Best Connections label.***18 Gauge, 50' FT, Single Conductor, Remote, Turn on, Hook Up Wire. Stranded Copper Clad Aluminum. Excellent for any 6 VOLT - 80 VOLT application.Flexible, Insulated, and ...
Specs:
Height | 2.68 Inches |
Length | 4.41 Inches |
Weight | 0.69 Pounds |
Width | 4.02 Inches |
15. Parts Express 330-075 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay
- Pre-wired relay socket for use with 12 VDC Bosch type five terminal relays
- For all applications including door lock, light flasher, starter kill, remote start circuits, and much more
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.7 Inches |
Length | 6.1 Inches |
Width | 4.3 Inches |
16. InstallGear 10 Gauge 25ft Black and 25ft Red Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
- 10 GAUGE 50-FEET (15.24m) BLACK & RED CCA POWER GROUND WIRE: Top quality, true to gauge power ground wire generates the appropriate power transfer needed for your next wiring project. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the cable. Thicker cable presents less resistance to current flow.
- COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM (CCA): High quality stranded CCA wire offers strong power transfer performance, while remaining lightweight with maximum flexibility. CCA wire offers uncompromised quality at an economical price. Depending on the power transfer necessary, consider Installgear's premium Oxygen-Free Pure Copper (OFC) wiring options.
- RUGGED PVC JACKET FOR MAXIMUM FLEXIBILITY & DURABILITY: Low memory, flexible soft-touch jacket material is perfect for routing in hard to reach places. Highly durable automotive grade wire (GPT) is resistant to extreme temperatures, liquid, oil, gas, abrasions and high impact.
- EASY POLARITY IDENTIFICATION: Differently colored jackets allow for easy polarity identification to prevent polarity mistake issues that can lead to potential audio equipment damages.
- QUALITY WIRING FOR YOUR NEXT PROJECT: Installgear's priority is providing high quality products for all of your wiring needs - car speaker equipment, home stereo system, RV trailer, solar panel wiring projects and more. Installgear is not responsible for improper use of gauge.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red + Black |
Weight | 0.86 Pounds |
Size | 10 Gauge (50ft) |
17. Pyramid RPB825 Ground Wire 8-Gauge, 25 Feet, Flexible, OFC Cable Wire, Translucent (Black)
- 8 Gauge BLACK Power Cable - 25 Foot Spool Length with 6.5mm Cable Diameter
- Economy OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) Wire - Finely Stranded OFC Cable
- Insulated for Chemical and Heat Resistance Wiring - High Temperature Rating
- Translucent "Matte" Insulator Coating - Extremely Flexible & Bendable Jacket
- 8 AWG Electrical Grounding - Maintains Safe and Reliable Voltage Levels
Features:
Specs:
Height | 4.7 Inches |
Length | 1.6 Inches |
Weight | 0.0005291094288 Pounds |
Width | 4.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
18. Stinger SGN20 Ground Loop Isolator
- Female Rca Inputs To Male Rca Outputs
- Reduces Unwanted Noise
- Retains Sound Quality
- Audio Transformer Technology
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.34 Pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
19. HobbyUnlimited 16-Gauge Silicone Wire 20 Feet [10ft Black and 10ft Red] 16 AWG Soft and Flexible Silicone Wire - 252-Strand Copper Wire
- Flexible 16 Gauge Silicone Wire. Designed for electricity use, not for audio.
- 252 Strand 0.08 mm Tinned Copper Wire. This will give the wires a "silver" color, even though it is copper.
- Highly Efficient and Super Low Impedance.
- 10ft of Black Wire and 10ft of Red Wire.
- -60 to +200 Degree Celsius Temperature Resistant
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Width | 6 Inches |
20. InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Red 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable
25-FEET (7.62m) [ RED 1/0 GAUGE POWER/GROUND WIRE ] - The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire. Thicker wire presents less resistance to current flow.COPPER CLAD ALUMINUM (CCA) - CCA wiring provides a good conductor for power transfer. This is the most economical option when choosing power o...
Specs:
Color | Red |
Weight | 4.61 Pounds |
🎓 Reddit experts on car amplifier power & ground cables
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where car amplifier power & ground cables are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Car Audio Fabrication and sonicelectronix have great how to car audio videos. But I won't bull shit you, a 4ch amp install is a lot of work.
I'll do my best to explain what's involved though and I'm gonna use some pictures to try and better get my point across because sometimes I don't even understand what im typeing.
So if you have a non factory amplified set up it will look something like this. The radio will have a plug in it that has a pair of wires for each speaker, a positive and a negative. A factory amplified system will look something like this. The set of speaker wires running out of the factory radio will run into the factory amp and then on out to each speaker. An aftermarket amp can be installed in both situations but the install will differ slightly.
One of the first things you'll need is an amp hook up kit. It has the power wire, fuse holder, ground wire, and a set of RCAs you can use to set up your amp. If you plan on adding a second amp for a sub at a later point you may want to consider buying a bigger power wire (smaller number = bigger) and run it back to a distrabution block so you won't have to do a second run later. You'll run the power wire with a fuse on it from the positive terminal of your battery through your firewall back to where you'll place your amp. Sometimes you'll be able to find a existing grommet to run the wire through and other times you may have to drill your own hole. For the ground you'll find a nice solid chunk of the car to clean the paint off and then using a bolt or screws attach the ground wire to the car.
Next thing to consider will be how to get a signal form your factory radio into your aftermarket amp. Aftermarket radios use RCA outputs but factory radio don't have them. So you'll need a line output converter (LOC). They come in all kinds of flavor from basic that will just drop the speaker level signal to something the amp wants to see to advanced that will give you some added control over your audio signal. What you'll do is cut the speaker outputs from your radio and run them into the corresponding inputs on the LOC. This can get tricky because the factory colors for the speaker wires are not standard to aftermarket color codes. You'll have to do some homework to find out what colors are what wires for your factory radio. While you're behind the radio you'll also grab the switch to 12 V signal that turns on your factory radio to run to the turn on of the aftermarket amplifier so it only turns on when your key is on and it shuts off when you shut the car off.
Once you've got those connections made you'll use RCA cables to run the signal from the LOC back to the amp. Now that you've got a signal into the amp you've got to get the speakers hooked up to the amp. The easiest way to do that is with Multi conductor / speedwire bundle hooked up to the amp outputs and run back up to behind the factory radio to reattach to the wires that were cut that run out to the speakers. All done it will look something like this. The major difference in the situation that you have a factory amp will be that that instead of connecting the speed wire from the amp outputs to the wires you cut coming out of the factory radio you will go to the wires coming out of the factory amp, like this.
Once the connections have been made it's time to set the gain on the amp so that you only provide clean power to the speakers. Sonic has a good series of videos on the many methods to set gains. There is also a guide in the sidebar.
Damn that's a wall of text but hopefully it gives you an idea of what's involved. If you don't feel up to it just call around or head in to some local shops and get some quotes for what the labor and parts costs will be and go with the shop you'd feel comfortable with working on your car.
The price difference is mostly quality and sometimes name. Also some are underrated so while it looks like they can handle about the same some can be pushed to double without issue. If all you want is loud the square 15 inch L7 is a really good sub since the cone design gives it more area (15x15=225 in^2 ) compared to a even a 15 inch round sub (3.14(7.5)^2 =176 in^2 ). That's 22% more cone. The only problem is they are harder to find from reputable dealers since it is a few years old. If you deal with CL or ebay there are plenty of used or even new stock out there.
Watts=Volts X Amps
Your alt should be charging at 14.4 but once you go under load it will drop so not great to use that for calculations. I used 12.5 to be on the safe side as if you build it to match you'll rarely get that low. If you're running a 270 amp alt you'll want to leave a good chunk of that for the rest of the car. Most people say 100 amps but every car is different. If you're running a second battery you'll be fine with leaving 70amps. Also keep in mind HD alternators aren't putting out 270amps at idle so if you're sitting at the light you'll mainly be pulling from your batteries. I'm sure whoever you buy from will give you some idea on how much output it has based on RPM. So basically
270 amp alt
-70 for "car stuff"
xWatts =12.5V X 200A
Solve for x we get 2500. That's a safe wattage to push. You can go as high as 3500W on the same setup (3500W=14V X 250A) but you can see that only leaves 20 amps to run the rest of your car (unrealistic) and assumes voltage will stay over 14v (also unrealistic). So while it will work you're on borrowed time. I'm a huge alpine fan. My old single type r @500 watts in a ported box (1.7 ft^3) would shame most 2 sub setups running at "twice" the wattage. 1k is enough to rattle the wipers off the windshield (my 500watt setup can do this). At 1500-1600 you're flexing the roof. 2k+ is an absurd amount of wattage.
The resistance thing you more or less have to match. Most amps are 1ohm or 2 ohm stable. You can always push higher in fact a subs resistance will increase as it's in use due to heat and air resistance when moving the cone (google impedance rise for more info). The only draw back to pushing it higher resistance means you're losing output. Take this RF amp for example it's rated at 1200w @1 ohm but it's rated at 400w @4 ohms and 800w @2 ohms. Now the amp is drawing the same amount of energy from your electrical system for all of those outputs but your output is all being lost to resistance. Alpine's amps are mostly 2 ohm stable. Most class d amp makers can do 1ohm stable. .5 stable amps are virtually unheard of. 99% of .5ohm setups are 1ohm stable amps being pushed to their breaking point. Guaranteed to void warranty (although not sure how they would prove you ran it at .5). Most people running them are banking on the impedance rise I mentioned earlier but it's hard to calculate how much impedance rise you can consistently achieve so many of these systems go up in smoke. Amps will tell you if they are 1 or 2 ohm stable. Most subs come in dual 2 or dual 4 setups so you can get to 1/2 ohms with whatever sub you chose. I'd stick to 1 or 2 ohm setup until you're ready to fry some equipment.
Here is how I would do it.
High cap alt= ??? 300
Battery = ??? 300-400
SoundQubed HDS315 (dual 4 ohm) 2 = $340
Alpine MRX-M110 *2 = $508 (if you can find a MRX-M240 you can run a single amp but you'll need to switch those subs to 2ohm which isn't an issue)
0 AWG going to your second battery -115 Note you can run 4AWG from the sec battery to the amps.
10 ft^3 box. Will more than likely need to be custom made. = ~150 for materials/carpeting
You're looking at 1700 on the low end. If you already have the alt or batteries just subtract what you already have and you'll have a good idea of what you need. If you scavenge CL you can find a better system for the money as most people sell their systems at a loss. Depends if you're willing to risk buying used.
Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:
Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
I am really sorry about bothering you this much, but I was going to order my 18awg wires and a lot of them say they are rated for under 300v. Would that be an issue?
I did see this wire set that is rated up to 600v would that be safe: https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Black/dp/B01NBE9C91/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499625576&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=18awg+wire&psc=1
I looked into the HLG-320H-C2100 driver more. I think I am going to go with the A version with the dimmer screw. It seems like it would be easier and safer then hooking up the dimmer dial on a B version. Would you recommend getting a light meter or somekind of way of checking to see if I am giving the plants enough light at every stage?
Thank you.
$150 Morel Maximo front speakers
$90 Morel rear coax speakers
$150 Sony head unit
$130 Kenwood underseat sub
The front and rear speakers are rock solid, the head unit does what you want... it has more than twice the power of any other head unit on the market. You can skip the external amp if that is what you want but you are giving up a bit at high volume levels. The underseat sub is a huge compromise. I know you aren't looking to rattle your bones with bass, but I think you will be underwhelmed regardless.
I would urge you to consider something like this separate amp and this compact subwoofer. It will hit all the notes at reasonable sound levels without the complaining you'll get from a true underseat sub. You will need an amp kit with the separate sub and amp.
Low cost sound deadening material
Also, if you get the foam baffles be sure to cut out the back side to allow air flow otherwise you will choke your speakers/ sound bad. They are for weather protection, not to boost midbass as they are too small for that. You need to use your entire door as an enclosure for best results. That means sealing off the sheet metal holes in your doors with plywood, plastic, or as a last resort, the noico sheets. Make sure you get the right adapters from Crutchfield when ordering your head unit.... ordering by phone can be helpful if you are unsure of something like door chimes or steering wheel controls etc...
It's not that big of a deal.. BUT, I don't know how much wiring experience you have..
Going on the assumption that it's a 300 watt LED bar... That's 25 amps or less of draw.
You need big enough wire to handle the current draw (25 amp+) and a fuse or circuit breaker and a relay. The 300 watt light will pull 25 amps at 12v so using 30 amp relay/fuse/breaker should be enough...
You will also need a switch BUT the switch is only going to be used to power on the relay and the relay will then "switch" the high current from the battery to the lights.
In simplest terms, you can wire it this way....
The Easiest way to do this is tap into the fuse box (under the dash) and pull 12v from something that is "switched power". That means it has power when the key is on. Now, run that tapped wire to a switch and from the switch to the Pin 86.
With that simple wiring above, when the key is in the on position, you have power going to the switch, when you flip the light switch the energizes the relay which takes the power from the battery and send it on the the light...
Now, you need to use big enough wire. I'm going to assume you are going to need to run less than 10 feet of wire for the high power (the one on the big fuse). If so, 12 gauge will be fine. You can use 14 or even 16 gauge for the "switch" wire and the ground to the relay to save some money..
hopefully all that made sense.. If you want, we can make the "switch" wiring fancier so you can have lights with the switch and/or with the high beams..
Lets pretend for a moment that this is the wire we are going to use (I know this is ridiculous for more than several reasons). So we have wire at $0.90/ft. We need.... ~3 miles so 5280ft x 3 x 0.90 = $14,256 in added cable cost (again these numbers like OPs are totally inaccurate)
I found an ad for 10 acres in California for $399,999 So 1 acre is assumed to be $39,999.90. (I have no Idea how reasonable this is I have only ever bought a lot in a small town)
So it turns out that land costs more than the additional cabling(of laughably made up price). So the next question is: can you fit more balloons on a plot of land than stationary units? Answer, probably. Airspace ownership is an unknown territory for me but it seems like you can fit as many balloons on your land as you can fit base stations.
So they are more productive and factoring in the cost of land may actually be more financially reasonable than you have indicated.
This all ignored maintenance costs. Why? Because average maintenance costs are UNKNOWN for the proposed system. Likely they will be more but how much more is not known.
I'm not saying you are wrong I tend to agree that short term it will be financially unrealistic but the problems this is designed to solve are beyond cost vs benefit. Those same problems may make the cost vs benefit favorable in the not so distant future.
Don’t get those garbage kits. The Rockford is a really good enclosure but it’s quiet, won’t get you the hard hitting bass. These will help with that a little
Subs: 2 Alpine type S
Amp: DD audio DM1000a
Box: either get it custom built or get a good prefab like this one which is well over recommended space for the Alpine’s. Measure your trunk first.
Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mgCLBbE45VETK
My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.
Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.
Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM
If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1
And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99
[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95
9 wire - $24.95
Additional RCAs - $19.99
4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio
RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.
Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90
Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70
= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350
If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.
Day old post, don't care.
I bought some Revision Desert Locust goggles off ebay for ~$30. Spent another $20 for a 25mm fan (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYNWUP4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), some 20ga wire (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT1CEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), and some on/off switches (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FH7WN2Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00).
I placed the fan to one side of the goggles (currently held in place with hot glue, but might "upgrade" to zip ties instead), ran the wires on top of the goggles (held in place with zip ties) to the on/off switch on the other side. Then ran wires to the back where I have a spare rechargeable battery held in place with velcro. Covering the battery up with the cover that came with the goggles.
That fan puts out 2.8 CFM with not a hole lot of noise, and at only 25mm, that's an astonishing amount of air!!! I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I will be this weekend. The on/off switch is to keep what little noise the fan puts out down, as with these goggles, I do not forsee needing the fan constantly on.
The first link would be the better option. That Planet Audio amp is super cheap in more ways than just price. You'll be better off with the MTX system. Add another $50ish for a wiring kit and you will be set. When shopping for wiring you will want 100% copper (referred to as OFC; Oxygen Free Copper). What you typically see in cheaper kits is CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) which is cheaper to produce but will not be as conductive as OFC.
This would be a good option.
You will not have any issues with getting low bass out of those subs. A different kind of enclosure will achieve different results. A sealed box like you have linked will be very punchy and tight. If you want something with more boom and perceived loudness you will need to be looking at a ported/vented enclosure.
From reading your other comment, it looks like we do have the same issue.
This was the cheapest ground loop isolator I could find on amazon.ca
Although it's a 4 channel ground loop isolator, it was the cheapest one I could find but for the mains conditioner, I couldn't find a cheap one. Do you mind linking me to one? You original comment had the isolator as the mains conditioner link as well.
Thanks for your help.
Edit: It's in frequently bought together section but I can't seem to find a North American one. Do you think just the isolator will do?
Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).
https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12
Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable
For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.
https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire
For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.
https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.
Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg
Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s
https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin
You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.
The wire.
Crimping tool.
Wire terminal lugs.
Battery Terminals.
Ask you shall receive, or, let me google that for you! :) I know that feeling when you don't have an experienced person to show you the ropes. All of this I learned from a week of reading and looking at everything I could concerning the matter. Sometimes there is no-one to show you what to do and you have to figure it out. It's not easy, but it is really satisfying. EDIT man that sounded really preachy... sorry about that, came from a good place :P hehe
If you're spending that much for a brake bleed kit, get an electric vacuum pump for ease. under $50 USD
vacuum pump
12v adapter
wires
I threw this together with the first 12v adapter I could find on amazon. If you want the run to pump better with more vacuum, get an adapter that pushes more than 2 amps. I have a 5 amp adapter and the pump runs like a top.
Sub
Amp
Box
Wiring
Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.
Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557
That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.
Sure!
Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.
The Light Units
The Chips x4: 98.6$
The Driver x1: 74.9$
CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$
Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$
4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$
Lights Total: 246.36$
Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE
Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.
You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$
In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$
Be careful these drills suck and break easily.
Screws x1: 12.98$
Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$
Were at about 315$.
Lets see what we can do with it.
my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.
have fun!
[Subs] (http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2)
[Amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383005622&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-m500)
Wire
If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.
First of all, more PICTURES!
So I saw a couple of other posts and got inspired. Mainly this one and this one.
I used wire and LEDs from amazon. 3 LEDs on each side.
And visor plugs and screws from ebay.
I wired the lights up to the switch as shown in the 2 other posts, which was really easy to do.
Then I wired the lights up through the trim.
I drilled holes in the plugs to fit the lights and put it all back together.
The pictures show some before and after, but I didn't have any pictures from night. The difference is huge, I can actually see in my car at night.
The Boss one certainly is, you think the one on the right is garbage? Can you recommend something better (it needs to be very flexible for a DC offgrid application).
If you add a subwoofer you need an amplifier kit. This one gets recommended on here often. Anything cheaper than this is going to use aluminum instead of copper, or not be the gauge it advertises. So that's about $35 to $40 right there.
You'd also need a line output converter, which I don't know much about. With all the stereos I've had, I just replace the OEM radio. A LOC makes it so you keep the OEM radio but get a pair of RCAs off your speaker's signal. They range from $10 to much more than that. That's something you'd need to ask others on here about.
As for a smaller self powered subwoofer, there are things like this under seat one, there's JBL's popular Basslink model that's been around for at least 15 years now, Rockford has one. Basically, there's a lot of them but they are probably over your budget when you factor in the amp kit and LOC.
If you did find one used, that would probably be the way to go. I happened to see this on my local Craigslist yesterday. Car audio usually resells for a fraction of its retail price.
I've always wanted to give These a shot for a budget build. Also grab This amp kit. My philosophy is don't buy something that will make you long for more, save that $250, and add another $250, and you'll be much happier.
Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.
So updated setup -
Wiring Kit - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine
Amp - https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1
Same speakers and subs.
You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?
Decent quality dependable brand. All-in-one setup that allows the quick/easy removal/install. Fits your budget. Combine that with this wiring kit and you're right at $300.
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=knukonceptz+8&qid=1573274385&sr=8-4
Switch the seller to Rockford Fosgate and shipped by Amazon and you'll get a 30 Day trial with no questions return. I'm betting you'll be happy with it, but free returns if not.
That looks like it'll fix the problem! Wondering if it's just a basic Isolator Transformer, or if it has some additional stuff (filtering/processing) to handle other noises. Was considering getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YGM5D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3gGgzb4TBWVH7 which looks to be just the basic isolator.
Looks like I have some options to try now, thanks!
You'll need a sub, box, amp, and wiring kit for the install. You already have an aftermarket radio, so you don't need an LOC. Unless you get a loaded enclosure, I don't see this getting bought and installed all for $300. Labor at Best Buy is going to be $150, maybe cheaper if you buy the junk they have on sale. Here are some suggestions anyways:
PPI monoblock - $100
Rockford p2d4 - $80
10" sealed box - $30
Knukonceptz 8awg ofc wire kit - $36
Total: $246 shipped to your door
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518320964&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+powered+sub
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1518321247&sr=8-13&keywords=ofc+amp+kit
There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.
Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.
Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.
You probably need some 2 conductor wire and a soldering iron. I would use a pretty thin gauge (high number) since the MQ172-3SA-CV(30) connector looks like it has really small tabs to connect to. If the insulation is too thick, you can try to trim the outside with an xacto knife. Of course, you want to keep insulation between the 2 conductors.
For example, 20 awg 2 conductor hookup wire. You can probably also find it at your local auto parts or hardware store.
It's not hard at all. Just grab a two colored wiring harness and I believe the ring's plug harness has both a white and white grey stripe. Cut about 4" from the plug and from the base station input Match it up to your new two colored harness and away you go. Super simple! Something like this below>>>>>>>
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-Hardwire-Replacement-22-Gauge-Parallel/dp/B001JT1CEE
Thanks for the info. Link to my amp kit, if that helps: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2
For the box, I'll need dimensions, but heres a good cheap setup.
Skar 800RMS amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-800-1D-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00TKEKNUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478295502&sr=8-1&keywords=skar+800
Sundown E-10" subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-10-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ1Q9FG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478295580&sr=8-1&keywords=sundown+e-10+d2
Knukonceptz 8-Gauge OFC amp-installation kit:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478295603&sr=8-4&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge
Total ~ $300 and the box will cost about $50 to make.
I started with this guy which goes for around 60 bucks. Add in this mic though you can find much more budget mics, I got that used for 35 bucks at a Guitar Center. Some balanced XLR cables, probably 20 bucks of RCA cables and 8 dollars of RCA-f to TS-m plugs from ebay and one of these to eliminate the ground loop on my mixer since my house is old and has poor grounding, it gets rid of that hum. I spent around 150 bucks for rather boss audio. I have since upgraded to an audio interface and a bigger mixer, but the 802 was a wonderful buy.
if it helps i have this 4 guage currently running to the sub: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ and have this 10 guage: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Black-Power-Ground/dp/B01NBE1YQ4 . wiring plan is something like this: https://i.imgur.com/SKKeeVB.png
Funny you followed up when you did, I'm on Amazon right now getting all my stuff together. Here's the breakdown:
The only thing I'm debating is to pick up an amp, but I suppose that can wait until I have the bare bones setup on my roof. Any other suggestions?
I would use the KnuKonceptz OFC kit or the NVX kit. I like the fuse block on the NVX kit as it is pretty beefy.
This looks promising, and it's cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGN20-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B002ZRQ3PW/
Might have to try it out.
All you need is one of these. You don't have to remove any cable. It goes between your current cables and your receiver.
Or one of these. - Same thing, different store.
I personally use this one, but it requires you to also buy some of these adapters.
All of these solutions are the same thing, but through different stores.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019Z3RCG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491491803&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4+gauge+amp+kit+ofc
One more question, could I use this kit for the big 3?( http://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-100-Wire-Audio-Sytems/dp/B00KVOLFT0 ) it says that it's OFC and it looks like it has everything that I need.
Ideally, use balanced cables (with a balanced source)
But barring that, just buy a ground loop isolator for your unbalanced system.
allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit
Try this or get different cables to use this, because that works fine for me.
These are a godsend when working with laptops and other mains-powered portable devices (like phones, iPods/MP3 players etc plugged into noisy chargers) - I keep about 6 in my stage audio cabling kit.
Ground loop isolation transformers. Example on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Shack-270-054-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B002YGM5D8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1411741856&sr=8-14&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
If I cant use my RCA cable, how is this wire? HobbyUnlimited 16-Gauge Silicone Wire 20 Feet [10ft Black and 10ft Red] 16 AWG Soft and Flexible Silicone Wire - 252-Strand Copper Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MHFWH8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_R4C4BbBZ0C0WW
This brand is what I always use: BNTECHGO 10/12/14/16/18 Gauge Silicone Wire 600V 30 feet(3ft Black and 3ft Red: 10 AWG,12 AWG,14 AWG,16 AWG and 18 AWG) Flexible High Temperature Resistant Electric Wire Strands of Tinned Copper Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBE9C91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t6kuDbHTNFE3H
Doesn't seem to take long to top them off either.. maybe 1 or 2 hours driving?
This is what I use:
battery switch I run off the main battery: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2NYEC
and I've got a bunch of these on every battery connection and on the inverter connection: https://www.amazon.com/YOUNG-MARINE-Circuit-Trolling-Mount-60A/dp/B076P8PS3Y/
and heavy gauge wire all around: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Power-Ground-Touch/dp/B01LWV0IYJ/
bigger alternator isn't necessary unless you're looking for fast charging or if the batteries arent enough
Will this work?
here is that same kit on [amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=29PELXXMWJLMP&keywords=knukonceptz+kolossus+8+gauge+ofc+amplifier+installation+kit&qid=1559105133&s=gateway&sprefix=knukonceptz+ofc+8+gauge%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-2), though if you plan on doing more you might just get the 4 gauge instead
Check out KnuKonceptz for wire: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413144630&sr=8-3&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge
Go for the 8 gauge OFC or 4 gauge CCA.
So this is what I should go with:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21675_MTX-TNP212D2.html - Sub/Amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058OENJ2/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NLNJ4Y2QP8Z - Amp Kit
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5265_PAC-SNI-35.html - LOC
My old kicker ZX460 was strange, even bridged it didn't have enough headroom with the input signal with 2 channel input even though it claimed you only needed 2 in the manual. I had to give it 4 inputs to get enough input to not have gain hiss. I just used a pair of splitters like these. With that amp you actually don't need locs, you can give it high inputs. If you look at the manual here it shows how to tie in any high level inputs just using male RCA connectors. You could just get a cheap 2 channel RCA cable, cut it in half. You'll now have 4 cables, tie the + and - of those of those together, run one pair to one rear speaker, and the other pair to the other rear speaker. You now have 4 high level inputs that plug into the amp, no need for a loc, no need for RCA splitters, and you can afford to buy decent power cable for the amp.
As far as gauge of power cable, 60A is nothing to scoff at, if you're going to use a walmart kit, I'd go for 4 gauge. Personally I'd use a Knu OFC 8ga which has the 60A fuse that the manual suggest. CCA(copper clad aluminum) which most walmart install kits are, isn't enough for 60A. Some of the best CCA around, the Knu KCA, only suggest 50A for long runs. Though the CX manual wants a 60A external fuse, that amp won't pull anywhere near that much power, so you might be ok using a walmart kit, is it worth risking though?
The only reason to use 2 locs would be to maintain fader control on the amp, since you are using it to power subs, you don't need it. Either 1 lock and a pair of splitters, or the cutting the RCA cable method I mentioned above.
I added a 6v battery and whenever the button is held down a relay switches from the stock 12v to the 12v + 6v in series.
5 pin relay: http://amzn.com/B0002KR9GG
5 pin relay harness: http://amzn.com/B0002ZPUMG
I believe the switch is a Normally Open Momentary Switch I got from Radioshack but there's no shortage of them available online.
Here's a good diagram on how the relay works:
http://www.mp3car.com/imagehosting/12527647e8755a545f7.bmp
Here's a decent diagram on one way to wire it up:
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/userstuff/12vwiz/2009121514639_18vturbo.gif
A few quick photos I grabbed this morning on my way out.
https://imgur.com/gallery/6f2Ph
I had the exact same issue with my monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. Bought myself one of these and it completely fixed the issue.
Sure, I will try to list everything here, most of what I got was from Amazon.
$107 HQST 100 Watt,12 Volt Solar Panel
$20 Charge Controller from Amazon
$90 1000W Power Inverter I went overkill for most on this, but I wanted to power a chainsaw if needed, otherwise you would only need to put in $37 for something really good
$11 Battery to inverter cables
$64 35AH 12V Deep Cycle Battery
$14 12V LED lights
$5 light wiring
$6 Switch
$38 Solar Panel Wires
$13 Battery Cables
$16 Conduit Pipe
$17 Unistrut
$13 For the Satellite Mount on eBay
Then figure $20 for various nuts an bolts.
So for me it came out to about $434, but considering that I paid high for my inverter, and over paid on cables/wire (you can use cheaper cables, but I went with the pre-set ones for convenience), you could do it for just over $350.
For the sub I'm running the Kicker DXA250.1 at 125w due to the sub being wired at 4 ohms, and my future plan is to pick up either the Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D or the JL JX400/4D for the door speakers. Chances are I'd realistically run under 500 watts with how I expect the door speakers to be configured (75w RMS x 4).
Naive question - I already purchased the KnuKonceptz Kolossus 8 gauge amp kit - should I just pick up a 4 or even 2 gauge power wire and a distribution block, or should I return that amp install kit and pick up the 4 or 2 gauge?