That alternator is almost certainly an 80amp, which is good for something like 800 watts RMS (1100watts minus whatever your car uses). I have a car, same make, similar year.. I've got 2 12s and the front components are amped, something like 1000 watts RMS, the lights dim when I bump it hard but it's enough to rattle the trunk, vibrate the rear-view mirror and host a smallish beach party (50 people maybe?)

If you want to go full on SPL you'll need at least $500 for a new alternator... but with what you have, you could focus on sound quality, have something that sounds great and still gets loud enough to blow your eardrums out without breaking the bank

What I did:

Hand-me-down amps and subs. I'm running probably 400 watts RMS or so on the 2 subs.. yeah, really low, but you can really feel it and it shakes the hell out of the trunk. I have hearing damage from a previous system so not-insanely-loud works well for me

Per the recommendation of this sub, I skipped out on rear speakers and spent the budget on the fronts and sound deadening. This is the way to go. I bought the Morel Maximos... after reading a ton they seem like the best sounding speaker you can get under $300... and they only cost $150 for the pair. Look at the recommendations on the wiki for a good budget amp to power them. I've got ~100watts RMS to them, and they get fucking loud (and clear!)

Spend some money on sound deadening.. you'll need it. Road noise brings the signal-to-noise ratio way down, making it harder to hear your music, harder to hear details, and harder on your ears. I bought the Noico 80 mil on Amazon, $60 was enough to do both front door panels and probably will be enough for the rear too. This video gets posted a lot and will give you an idea of what you need to do. I didn't go as far as he did, but followed the concepts and it made a massive difference. Eventually I'd like to add some MLV for more sound-proofing

I come from a pro audio / studio engineering background as well.. you know the saying, spend 1/2 the budget on room treatment, that's probably about right in the car world too.

So for final budget:

$150 for Morel Maximo you'll appreciate this thread, it's an audio engineer's review of the Maximo vs several other components, this is what sold me and I love mine

$60 for Noico 80 mil sound deadener

$?? for MLV.. maybe $100?

$?? - Look on the wiki for a budget 5 channel amp... I'm running 2 amps, takes more connectors, more wire, more cost, but I already had the 2 amps. There seems to be some great amps out there now that are budget friendly, but I'm not familiar with them. Consult the wiki. You could run the components off the head unit but it wouldn't be much more to amplify them properly and it'll make a massive difference in output quality

$30 - Depending on the length of your cable run and your power requirements, you'll probably need a 4 gauge wire kit (do calculate this before buying), get the one from KnuKonceptz they're a great bang-for-buck and the cheapest wire that's actually rated for what it is. (for instance, Boss wire is thick but it's all insulation and not copper)

And for bonus, get a DSP so you can flatten out the EQ in your car.. cars are a lot harder to EQ than rooms because they have so many different nodes. Dayton is about to release theirs for $150, and if you have a calibration mic you're set, if not NADY's CM-100 is a $60 calibration mic and you'll take the car to the next level. You could keep it and re-tune on your next car. My car sounds lovely without DSP but I plan on adding it when I get some more funds... this is easy to upgrade and add later on, just pop it in the signal chain

And one last pro tip: Run your RCAs away from all power sources so you don't pick up that annoying alternator whine. I ran mine through the center of the car, but you should be able to run it on one side of the car and the amp wires on the other

Hope this helps. I'm just a musician/engineer who knows a little bit about car audio, been dipping my feet in a bit more lately, but by far an expert. There's a lot of professional car audio guys around here that can help out more if you have any more questions

</wall>

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

(Man, this turned out a long longer than I thought it would, for relatively little content. I guess I just have a lot of feelings about audio equipment.)

I'd really recommend reading a bunch of reviews and auditioning what you can (I know that's not always practical, I sure bought mine without listening to many alternatives).

I really like the noaudiophile.com guy's reviews, though I know there are people that disagree with some of his conclusions and methods.

/r/Zeos also has a shortlist and some mini-reviews of both powered monitors and bookshelf speakers + amps, and where our experience overlaps I agree with them, so I imagine my advice in that price range would match theirs. (Though after a quick look, it seems some of them are a little out of date, with links to discontinued equipment.)

If you're willing to spend that much, I can't recommend enough making sure your speakers are properly positioned with stands (you don't have to spend much though: the noaudiophile guy uses soup cans to prop up speakers he reviews at his computer!). You may also consider rubber isolation mats.

I personally use—and very much enjoy—the JBL LSR305s, which I got for 280$ a pair, but they're usually 300$ (typically sold by the each at 150$). When I searched for that price, I found out they've just been replaced with the "305p MkII", but changes are minor and all improvements.

Studio monitors are popular for audiophile grade computer speakers because they're designed for near-field, critical listening, unlike typical bookshelf speakers.

On the other hand, they're designed for a very linear, uncolored sound. Speakers can essentially be thought of as a musical instrument, and while there are plenty of wrong ways to make them, there's no one right way. Precision is just one basis for judgment (though the one I find most soothing to go by, since it's easiest to measure).

The LSR305s specifically have been very popular on /r/audiophile, but there's also a lot of praise for the ~400$/pair Yamaha HS5s and AudioEngine A5s. I personally wouldn't bet a lot of money that I'd be able to tell a big difference between my speakers and those higher priced ones.

**

The rest of this post is just advice for if you do get a Studio Monitor. Many (including the JBLs and the Yamahas I mentioned) aren't terribly user friendly. I ran into some stumbling blocks, so I'll mention them here. They're designed to be stand-alone, giving flexibility to your recording engineer, so to run them in stereo, you'll need a way to control the volume of them together (not to mention some unusual cables/adapters, and space to plug in two things on your power strip).

Zeos recommends this line level control, which is only 10$. There's also a "passive preamp" by Nobsound on Amazon for 40$. I don't think you can do too much to mess up a stereo potentiometer with modern manufacturing, so the extra money for the nobsound one is probably just for the nice box and connectors (admittedly, I built my own passive pre-amp and spent probably too much on a stepped attenuator for it).

Obviously, you could instead control volume directly from your computer's volume control, but there's a hidden hazard there, so this is secretly the more expensive option. On nearly every computer, the built in digital-to-analog-converter (DAC) is 16-bits; turning down the volume digitally fundamentally means cutting the audio resolution your computer outputs. The way around this is a 24-bit DAC: almost all audio is recorded/produced at 16-bit resolution (it's the CD standard; but also, about the limit of detail a human can hear), so you can go to .25% volume on the computer before you touch the real data. My recommendation is the Objective Labs DAC (99$).

Some people recommend a dedicated, high quality DAC anyways for a sound system around a price point like 500$. I do own the ODAC (predecessor to the OL DAC), but for me it's almost just for peace of mind.

As a cable example: if you get JBLs and a volume control, you'll need this for computer to volume control and a pair of these for control to speakers. (Not recommendations, just top results on amazon for those types.)

PS: One thing you don't* have to worry about at all is "balanced". Most studio monitors can be run balanced, but they'll also run unbalanced just fine. You'd need a very expensive balanced DAC to make use of it, and assuming your home is not the maelstrom of EM interference a recording studio is, it just isn't necessary (it's not even "overkill", if you don't need it, balanced equipment just adds more components that could produce interference).

^(edited to correct first cable link)

I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.

You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.

Problems you'll run into:

• With a new head unit, you'll lose the function of the screen on top, but I think it's a good trade off for the sound quality
  
  
• You can't have speakers in the front doors that are too deep because it'll hit the window, but there are good shallow mount speakers to put there.
  
  
• The back deck WILL rattle, even you you put a good amount of deadener on it, deadener will still help a good amount though. To solve this problem, deaden it, put weather stripping along the back of the deck where it meets the window (I doubled it up where the brake light is back there), and I drilled two small holes from inside the trunk and zip-tied it down around the metal frame under the deck. This worked great for me and I have two 13" subs in a ported box. If you're looking for one 10", it'll definitely work. It might look a little janky, but that's the only way for it to not rattle.
  
  
• To have someone install everything, run the wires, and deaden what you need deadened (which is, at minimum, the front doors and front door panels, rear deck, trunk, trunk lid, and probably the the pillars in the back), you're probably looking at around $300-$600 for about 4-6 hours of work, depending on where you take it to. And some charge more for installing if you didn't buy the parts from them.
  
  In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.
  
  
• KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit - $50 (they have a cheaper 4 gauge amp kit, but it doesn't have a big enough fuse on it)
  
  
• 100' KnuKonceptz speaker wire - $20
  
  
• RCA cables (need 2 more pairs) - $10 x 2
  
  
• Dash kit - $50
  
  
• Wiring harness - $12
  
• Antenna adapter - $10
  
  
• Steering wheel control interface - $80
  
  
• Kenwood excelon headunit - $260
  
  
• 6.5" Focal component speakers for the front - $250
  
  
• 6.5" JL coax speakers for the back deck - $140
  
  
• Baffles for the speakers on back deck - $8 (you need these if you want to hear these speakers because of noise cancelation from the sub)
  
  
• 10" pioneer sub - $300
  
  
• Crappy pre-fab sub box - $60
  
  
• Custom box for your car - $120 + $15 if you want a grill (They will build it to the specs of the sub, which is 1 cu.ft. sealed if you go with the pioneer)
  
  
• Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp - $500
  
  
• 25ft^2 of sound deadener - $55
  
  
• $1815-1890 + $300-$600 installation + your tax rate
  
  You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.
  
  I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.
  
  
  
  
  
  

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

(Reposting from a different thread I replied to previously, plus some modifications with better details)



I have done this on a 2017, which should use a similar system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.



The radio I bought for my Corolla is the Kenwood DMX-905S, but you can get any radio that has the iDatalink Serial port on the back (should be mentioned specifically in the description on whatever site you buy it from) which brings me to the next point...



I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This module allows your radio to interface with all the OEM functionality that is normally configured with the radio and prevents having to deal with a metric ton of ridiculous wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.



The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time. There have supposedly been some successful attempts online, but naturally only by someone who was planning to sell adapters for it and essentially abandoned the forum and project entirely without ever releasing ANY details.



I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.



The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works. I own this kit, but have yet to install it in my Corolla so I can't officially vouch for it.



I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna (I have yet to actually install it so I can't vouch for it 100% but it should be fine). I did do some research after someone else mentioned this in the previous thread and despite the strange image on the Amazon page it does indeed have the radio connector and the blue power wire which is required for it to function.



For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter depending on what your radio expects for the aux connection. Most likely, you will need the adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.



Last but not least, you'll need a dash kit. I'm not certain which one you'll need on the 2015, but don't buy the Metra ones. Hot. Garbage. Just go to https://www.crutchfield.com/ and put in your model/year/etc.



As some general advice, I recommend getting some TESA tape and wrapping all your connections. Please for the love of Cthulhu do not wrap your wires in electrical tape if you value your sanity. TESA tape is fabric tape and is absolutely delightful to use, plus it looks good. Also, invest in plastic panel pry tools so you don't ruin your dash trying to get the radio out. You will likely need a 10mm socket to remove the factory radio.



I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!



(edited because mobile formatting)

Car Audio Fabrication and sonicelectronix have great how to car audio videos. But I won't bull shit you, a 4ch amp install is a lot of work.

I'll do my best to explain what's involved though and I'm gonna use some pictures to try and better get my point across because sometimes I don't even understand what im typeing.

So if you have a non factory amplified set up it will look something like this. The radio will have a plug in it that has a pair of wires for each speaker, a positive and a negative. A factory amplified system will look something like this. The set of speaker wires running out of the factory radio will run into the factory amp and then on out to each speaker. An aftermarket amp can be installed in both situations but the install will differ slightly.

One of the first things you'll need is an amp hook up kit. It has the power wire, fuse holder, ground wire, and a set of RCAs you can use to set up your amp. If you plan on adding a second amp for a sub at a later point you may want to consider buying a bigger power wire (smaller number = bigger) and run it back to a distrabution block so you won't have to do a second run later. You'll run the power wire with a fuse on it from the positive terminal of your battery through your firewall back to where you'll place your amp. Sometimes you'll be able to find a existing grommet to run the wire through and other times you may have to drill your own hole. For the ground you'll find a nice solid chunk of the car to clean the paint off and then using a bolt or screws attach the ground wire to the car.

Next thing to consider will be how to get a signal form your factory radio into your aftermarket amp. Aftermarket radios use RCA outputs but factory radio don't have them. So you'll need a line output converter (LOC). They come in all kinds of flavor from basic that will just drop the speaker level signal to something the amp wants to see to advanced that will give you some added control over your audio signal. What you'll do is cut the speaker outputs from your radio and run them into the corresponding inputs on the LOC. This can get tricky because the factory colors for the speaker wires are not standard to aftermarket color codes. You'll have to do some homework to find out what colors are what wires for your factory radio. While you're behind the radio you'll also grab the switch to 12 V signal that turns on your factory radio to run to the turn on of the aftermarket amplifier so it only turns on when your key is on and it shuts off when you shut the car off.

Once you've got those connections made you'll use RCA cables to run the signal from the LOC back to the amp. Now that you've got a signal into the amp you've got to get the speakers hooked up to the amp. The easiest way to do that is with Multi conductor / speedwire bundle hooked up to the amp outputs and run back up to behind the factory radio to reattach to the wires that were cut that run out to the speakers. All done it will look something like this. The major difference in the situation that you have a factory amp will be that that instead of connecting the speed wire from the amp outputs to the wires you cut coming out of the factory radio you will go to the wires coming out of the factory amp, like this.

Once the connections have been made it's time to set the gain on the amp so that you only provide clean power to the speakers. Sonic has a good series of videos on the many methods to set gains. There is also a guide in the sidebar.

Damn that's a wall of text but hopefully it gives you an idea of what's involved. If you don't feel up to it just call around or head in to some local shops and get some quotes for what the labor and parts costs will be and go with the shop you'd feel comfortable with working on your car.

If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):

https://www.amazon.com/AutoHarnessHouse-Aftermarket-Installation-compatible-2016-2019/dp/B07GD8627K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=autoharnesshouse+brz&qid=1573219865&sr=8-1

​

That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.

You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=344R0OVLJ7ACT&keywords=metra+toyota+harness&qid=1573220037&sprefix=metra+toyo%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

​

For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).

Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Select/dp/B00JYHSDKO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+antenna+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00JYHSDKO&pd_rd_r=aae8b955-0220-497c-bcd6-480183748bd8&pd_rd_w=bmQ4P&pd_rd_wg=7ZU9O&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=F20PSH58JCQN60PP1T5G&qid=1573220626

You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).

​

Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.

There are many, look on Amazon. Personally I liked the Sony RM-X7BT, but they have discontinued it in the US and probably other markets. Look for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ. These type of adapters don't have a battery, they're designed for cars, so they can turn on and off with the ignition (if your car turns on/off the 12V sockets; mine doesn't). This particular set comes with a ground loop isolator, which you may not need, you'll only need it if you hear static or whirring (from the engine).

Bear in mind that these cheap ones will likely sound like butt with calls due to not prioritizing mic quality, and using the old BT narrowband standard. Since the BT Hands-free Profile 1.6 (circa 2011), BT has been able to do wideband or "HD Voice" quality, but not all manufacturers use it, and good luck finding one that advertises it.

I liked the Sony one because the BT receiver/mic was separate from the controls so you could position it better. The control unit is completely wireless and battery powered, and IR so it needs line of sight, but on the upside the battery lasts very long, and unlike BT remotes, it doesn't need to go to sleep, it just always instantly works, like a regular TV remote. The mic quality was also excellent and noise reduction top notch, I tested it by recording directly on my computer connected to Hangouts and going for a drive. I went that far. It also has HFP 1.6 with wideband, as all modern Sony BT devices, and even has an external mic input. If you can find it and the price is not too expensive for you, I recommend it.

You can do what I'm doing. I bought a cheap bluetooth adapter linked below. It plugs into an AUX port and is powered be 12v/cigarette lighter. What I'll be doing is cutting off those plugs and wiring it behind the dash directly into the AUX input wires behind the plug. This way I can still plug things into the AUX for anything but still do the bluetooth device into it. This device auto connects and is for both iPhones and Androids. Music quality is great. I'm no audiophile though and my 2008 Tundra speakers aren't super duper or anything.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

If you want to go 100% wireless which is great then get the link below too if your phone supports wireless charging. I love car docks because they are a million times safer than putting your phone down in your center console. They keep your eyes on the road while still being able to see the phone. Also it's super useful with the WAZE app and GPS.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHEUEJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To power that device I bought the product below. It's a 12v to 5v convertor to power a USB port with 3amps of power. This will be behind the dash and I'll be wiring it to the other product below to add a USB port to my A-pillar. This way I'll have a very short wire going from my A-Pillar to my car-dock so that there are no wires really visible in the vehicle interior. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A71CMDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-extension-Flush-Motercycle-Xtenzi/dp/B00CNUFGN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407177113&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+aux+port&dpPl=1

Honestly if all you want is an aux or bluetooth input you can get a box that connects to the back of your current head unit and adds an Aux input. You then select this input using the CD button because the Camry's headunit supports a CD changer that's accessed by hitting the cd button twice (first to select CD then the second press selects the CD changer). The box basically mimics a CD changer but sends whatever you put in through the Aux.
You can then very cheaply buy a bluetooth adapter online for bluetooth-aux and many of them come with good microphones.

That's what I did myself because I like that it's much more stealth than a new headunit so you're not worrying about people trying to steal your headunit or having to deal with removable faceplates or whatever.

You just need a plastic panel prying kit that you can buy online to help take your dash apart, but it's pretty easy and can be done in maybe 20 minutes. I did end up needing to get a ground loop isolator to cut out engine noise since the Camry was never really designed to have an aux input.

I would take a look at the back of the head unit first actually, because I'm almost sure the 2002 Camry head unit actually uses the same connector as the later models like this and apparently they have very cheap connector units now like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Moonet-Auxillary-Integration-Highlander-Landcruiser/dp/B00ITHJ5BQ They have ones listed for the 2002 but I'm almost sure that's for the older headunit model but you should look at the back of the headunit to make sure this will fit. I bought a pricier one but this was years ago, they still have more expensive kits out there too.

Then you just need a female to female 3.5mm adapter and one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ (I own this one and it's great, but I got it on sale for cheaper than the current price)
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004EHZUYG (this one also has a good mic as well but don't bend the wires too much, I had the wired version and my wiring went bad.

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Specs:

• 2012 Audi Q5 with B&O sound system
  
• Prefab box, ~39Hz
  
• 2x Sundown Audio EV-5 (dual 4 ohm)
  
• Sundown Audio SAE-600D Monoblock 600W RMS
  
• Accubas LC2i LOC
  
• KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
  
  The LOC in use has a feature where it can counter bass frequencies being lowered when the stock head unit starts lowering the bass output at high HU volumes to protect the stock speakers. It turns out this Audi didn't need that feature (bass didn't drop even at max volume).
  
  The box is what it is (quality wise it is actually OK), it's tuned a little high for my taste. Unfortunately with limited tools and no shop/space I decided to go with the prefab box. It cheap but gets the job done.
  
  How does it sound? It sounds really good, gets really loud after I set the gains "properly". One interesting note however is that the Accubass gain needs to be set to 95% of max in order for the "Maximize" LED to come on, when the HU is at full tilt. I'm tapping into the stock subwoofer amp output for the line in to the LOC, I might get better results by tapping into the front speakers but then I'd have to run cables from the HU all the way back, I'd rather not do that.
  
  I need to do some sweeps and check what the frequency response looks like. All in all it blends in quite well with the system, I'm really happy with it.
  
  Total cost for the install with shipping of parts was around $630. (it took ~2 days to install)

That's awesome. The guy I'm buying it from said many of the same things. I also didn't realize until your comment that the bluetooth didn't work with music. I bought this for my current car and it's been great, especially since it has an aux input and cigarette lighter hidden in the console. Hopefully it will continue to work.

I'm coming from an impreza so it'll be some nice power and torque. Also lucked out and this one that came up is the 6 speed. Could you tell when the AWD kicks in in the snow? I'm pretty sure it's FWD until it detects traction loss and it'll send power to the rear. The impreza has always been great in the snow so I hope I don't lose much there.

Does yours have the black and white leather interior?

[Swedespeed has some good guides to exhaust systems if you haven't seen them.] (http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?210962) Long term I'd love to do full exhaust, lowering springs, maybe FMIC and a bigger turbo, and a tune. Make a really great sleeper wagon.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.

If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.

Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.

If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.

You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.

In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.

So, in the end, my setup is as so ...

1. Babyface Pro plugged into my gaming PC
   
2. Digiface USB plugged into streaming PC
   
3. Headphones plugged into Babyface Pro
   
   With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.
   
   I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.
   
   Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

Thank you for the comments. The second one shows the installation of a potentiometer using one of the speaker leads, which seems to be a good way to externally mount the Pandora Box 6 volume control (instead of having to open the cabinet to adjust the wheel on the actual device). However, I think the leads to the potentiometer would need to be extended to allow it to cleanly mount to the outside of the cabinet.

The first video shows a solution designed to work with something more customizable, like a Raspberry Pi. I just like how professional it looks. The downside is that you have to drill the holes perfectly since at least two of the holes won't be covered by any trim (the amp controls go right through the holes).

The fact that the speaker and power switch can connect directly to the Pandora's Box were big pluses for me. However, from what I read, it seems like different games have different volume levels so I do think having an external volume control is a good idea. The more I read, the more I think I may go with a Raspberry Pi according to ETA Prime's tutorial, deal with the script edits necessary to get the power button to work semi-correctly (seems to just allow the RP to shut down but the amp stays on) and use some of the ideas from the first video I posted. It just seems to allow for the cleanest design with most flexibility going forward.

I guess the ideal solution would be Raspberry Pi + a cheap amp that has a clean externally mounted volume control. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/d/Car-Audio-Video-Remote-Controls/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550113401&sr=8-3&keywords=amp+volume+control ?

Correct, standard RCA cable to connect everything. From what I'm reading on the Tapco's, they have a stereo RCA input. Turntable > ART DJ Pre II > monitors.

As LionsMouth pointed out below (and I stupidly missed) the Tannoys are active monitors as well. You could test out which pair you like best and go with those. I didn't find a manual in my quick google search, but from what I can see, the Tannoy's use a combo 1/4"-phone/XLR cable connection. If it is a 1/4" cable, you will need to find a pair of mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable to connect from the DJ Pre II to the back of the Tannoys.

The other thing you will really, really want is some sort of line attenuator to control the volume. It looks like neither the Tannoy or Tapco have a volume control built into them. You could use the gain trim on the DJ Pre II, but that would be far less than ideal.

One other thing that would be very handy would be a simple AV switch box. This would allow you to connect a MP3 player or other audio source along with your turntable.

Outside of the turntable (not knocking you or it -- we all got to start somewhere) the other gear you have is really good quality stuff. Like I said the MX-2 is worth holding onto for the future if you get into this hobby. Otherwise, you could sell it for a decent penny.

Links for reference:

RCA to 1/4" adapter cable

RCA to 1/4" adapter

Line Level Attenuator

AV Switchbox

The RCA-to-1/4" cable or adapters can probably be found at any store that sells music equipment. Line level attenuator might need to be ordered. AV switchboxes are generally everywhere and should be at any big box or online retailer.

Might be a silly suggestion, but have you tried a different dealer yet? I have found the the quality of customer service is only as good as the quality of the people that work there, and some dealerships tend to attract certain types of people (some cocky/arrogant, while others are friendly/helpful). It might be worth calling ahead to discuss the issue and then making a trip to the next closest, as they may actually care to help you out.

As an even sillier suggestion, you could just get one of these external Bluetooth adapters and forget about the issue completely (they are easy to jnstall and work wonderfully, but I know that I personally I would not be happy with non-OEM Bluetooth in my MK6)... http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60.

Nice! I too hate the mounts for the air dock. I bought all three and they all suck equally bad in my car. The CD mount came close but my CD slot is rounded and the mount is flat so can't get it fully in and supported. My plan is to do exactly this but just FYI you can get a plate for that proclip that will give you the 17mm (I believe) mounting ball that fits the dock. It's a pretty common size apparently as several GPS units use it.

Also for Bluetooth I've tried a some that just never work all that great. My Tunelink had to be re-paired to my phone constantly, like daily or more. My cars Bluetooth for calling is absolutely terrible as well. I recently got this thing on Amazon last week and it works like a charm. Even has a wired remote you mount with a mic on it, a multifunction button and also previous and next track buttons.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX
http://amzn.com/B009NLTW60

I don't know about the Avalon specifically, but its possible in many cars. You'll have to exercise some Google-fu.

A whole bunch of factory head units, especially on nicer cars starting in the early 2000s, have aux inputs on the back of the unit. Before an aux input became a standard equipment expectation, it was often a dealer-installed option (i.e. plugging in and running an aux cable) or used to wire up a CD changer (which you can often unwire and replace with an aux in).

For instance, here's what I installed in my car: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM#productDetails. $36 on Amazon for OEM, or you can hunt around on eBay or other smaller sites and probably find an OEM one for $25 or a knock off for $15. Literally just plugs into the back of the unit, then you run it to wherever you want, but typically the glovebox is easiest.

Optionally, I also discretely mounted a small ~$40 bluetooth/A2DP receiver (this guy, much nicer than OP, gets power from the car and also doubles as a USB power plug) on the dash next to the stereo and ran its wire under the trim into the glovebox to connect to the 3.5mm aux. It works/sounds great and I mostly use the bluetooth since its nice to not have to fiddle with wires every time I get in/out of the car, but I can also unplug the bluetooth and plug straight in to the 3.5mm plug in the glovebox.

If you have the space for it a 5.1/7.1 home theater receiver will actually provided the easiest, cheapest, and best subwoofer integration since it's guaranteed to implement a proper crossover that high-passes the C-Notes (improving their power handling and clarity about the xover point) and low-passes the subwoofer. Accessories4Less is reliable and has great refurb deals. They'll also put out more clean power than your typical compact Class D amp.

Of course, there's not always space for something like that.

Compact amps with subwoofer out are annoyingly hard to find. The SMSL AD18 and Q5Pro have subwoofer output, but are a bit pricy. They don't get super super loud, but should be plenty loud enough for practice or as monitors I guess! Keep in mind that their sub outs aren't high-passed so the C-Notes will still play full-range.

Alternately you could choose any old amp, and simply control the volume upstream from the amp. Then you won't need a subwoofer out on the amp.

(RCA splitter) --> (inline volume control) --> (piano)

The amp would go into one set of RCA outputs and the sub into another.

You could of course skip the inline volume control if you can simply do it on the piano!

> Main goal is to get distortion free power that won't starve the speakers, so I'm thinking it should probably put out 40 watts per channel at a minimum? I could be wrong there, parts express has the cnotes rated at 60 watts RMS.

If you're going with a class D amps in the $100 range, look for amps rated at around 100W per channel -- typically based on the TDA7498E like the SMSL SA98 and Topping PA3. That "100W" rating is at 10% distortion. However, they'll do 50W at nice low distortion levels, giving the C-Notes about as much clean power as they can take.

However, if you're just using these for practice from a distance of several feet you don't need to go that big. A "50W" class D amp will give you around 25W of actual clean power, which is pretty damn loud at close range and is only ~3dB less than a 50W amp and 6dB less than a 100W monster.

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

Okay for a great sounding sub try this Ive heard good things about image dynamics being a great sound quality sub, and for a amp JBL makes a great amp with a clipping detector so you know you set the gains correctly to make your sub last for a long time. Then add this box this a sealed box so if you feel the sub isn't loud enough I recommend building or buying a custom ported box for it down the line, not buying a prefab and wiring kit

Together it equals $480 (I recommend ordering by phone for sonic electronix cause they will give you a good deal buying all that from them.

Do you have a aftermarket headunit in you car already or is it stock?

Not op, but I had the BTC450. Really great quality, and adds huge convenience of Bluetooth: it has a microphone built in for phone calls; one touch support for changing songs, answering/hanging up phone calls, etc; it looks nice and has a matte black finish to it; it is super small, doesn't take up any space either.

Here's the Amazon link

There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.

Radio Antenna harness

Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)

USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)

Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.


I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).

You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.

I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.

Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.

I would go with

$300 w/install kit Pioneer 80prs

$90 8" silver flute for doors

$60 XT25 tweeters

$70 subwoofer box

$80 Skar VD subwoofer

$170 MB Quart 5 channel amp

$60 knukonceptz wire kit

$40 Noico sound deadener


Over budget, $870, but that is some good kit for the money. I am not sure which wire harness you need since you aren't keeping the stock bose amp.... that would be a great thing to ask in crutchfield chat window.

Run the 80prs in network mode, cross your sub/mids at somewhere between 80 and 200, mids and tweeters anywhere from 2500 to 5000hz. Tweak around until it sounds best to you. Should sound great.

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

> I am planning on replacing all 4 door speakers, which I believe are 5" with 6x8 kicker cs series. Total cost for the speakers being $100.

You'd be far better off with 5.25" components, and spending your money on the fronts only to get better speakers. The Kicker CS are frankly pretty damn bad. Try these. You can run them off HU power for now and amp them later to improve the sound.

> I still have the stock stereo, and I'm debating on even replacing it, because if I do, I will lose my fuel economy button/readings. If I replaced it, I planned on replacing it with a Kenwood DPX502BT. It is amplified and I was told with the Kenwood amplifying to the stock amplifier then to the speakers that would increase total wattage to the speakers. I'm not sure if I actually need that, since right now with the stock blown speakers I can definitely turn them up past where I would ever listen to them already. So aside from having bluetooth, I don't see much of a benefit.

You can keep the stock HU and run a LOC to an aftermarket amp, or you can use an aftermarket HU and run straight to an aftermarket amp. Putting aftermarket speakers on the factory amp is a bad idea. There's too much built-in, un-defeatable processing on that signal that doesn't work right for anything other than the speakers it's meant for.

> Next I was going to put a cheap sub in there. There is a 8" bandpass sound ordinance sub on crutchfield for $100. Very good reviews on it considering the price point.

Please don't do that. This sub (dual 2 ohm) in a simple sealed box, or a custom ported box if you want to do a bit more work, would serve you much better. You also need a sub amp, which it looks like you haven't considered. This is a great budget amp. You also need a wiring kit, like this one.

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

I would agree. I have a nice box design that would work for it also and it would be a nice system that could get down and for a first system it will be nice. Also need a wiring kit. So [this one.] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII) A single sheet of 3/4 MDF will be $35 and a single bottle of glue will be $5. Awesome beginner system to have IMO. If you don't want this OP, Rockford sells loaded enclosures right [here] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/search?keyword=loaded+subwoofer+enclosures&query_id=34051166&query_code=311397&SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=34051166&manufacturer_id=13) and all you need after one of those is a amp and wiring kit. If you don't have a aftermarket Headunit then you will need a LOC which is like $25 for a good one regardless of which system you choose. And also if you haven't built a box before, don't be intimidated it is the best type of box you can get and the design I has simple cuts and everything.

I'd only recommend the Hint if you've come to rely on BT ear buds. The X is very functional with "whip-right-out-of-your-pocket" functionality thanks to active display turning on and deep listening ready to go.

The car dock I bought is a U-grip for ten bucks. It's not perfect, but it certainly holds my device in place with absolutely no slippage, and the rotation ball on the dock is adjustable which is nice. Easy to remove.

If I can upsell you on car crap, the Kinivo bluetooth car unit in particular supports AptX as do Moto products! No quality compromise versus AUX IN... ditch the wires in your car! I mounted the controller low and can pause and skip in a very comfortable position where the unit is hidden-- honestly, don't know how I went so long with something so dang convenient.

If you are splurging, the turbo charger is cool. For when you've got no plugs, a powerbank is nice. Other than power and cord management, this phone takes away a lot of necessity for accessories.

You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.

And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.

Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gg.7Cb5PNTECF

Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA6C1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fh.7Cb7E4TQZN

Oh I know. I own one of them. I just don't like how it disconnects frequently and takes forever to regain sync to my device. The AUKEY I'm talking about would allow you to have your cake and eat it to.

Device I'm talking about.

Basically you would leave everything in the center console, it would give you the exact same controls as the one you have now, make it to where it's only one bluetooth device connected at once, AND you'd be able to use your hands free phone from it as it has a mic on the control puck. Yeah, it's got one wire going to the puck, but trust me. It's one of the best solutions out there. I've been through a bunch and this one has worked and looked fantastic for over 6 months now.

You can still use those headphones and even your car audio just with the adapter it'll come with, I've owned a few phones without headphone jacks and the only really annoying part is if you're trying to charge and listen to music with headphones. They are Bluetooth adapters for the car that will also give you a better microphone for car use. It only costs like $20 when they go on sale and gives you hardware controls for music. I bought this one for my old car that didn't have Bluetooth. It's not on sale now but you can buy another one, just make sure it has AptX so the streaming is good quality. There are even newer ones that support AptX HD.

Having the Bluetooth in the car is way convenient anyways, you can have the phone automatically trigger Android Auto when you get in the car since the Bluetooth will automatically connect which triggers Android auto to start. It's one of the options in the Android auto settings. Amazon is actually releasing an Alexa for the car that'll work as a Bluetooth adapter and add Alexa to the car and I think the introductory price is $25. You just have to request an invite to order since it's not out yet.

There's so much road noise in a car anyways that it's very unlikely that the slightly worse quality of AptX over Bluetooth is noticeable. And the car microphones do a MUCH better job for in car phone calls and you can also keep your phone your pocket and play the last playlist. I really recommend getting a Bluetooth adaptor for your car whether or not your phone has a headphone jack.

Well, I'm not sure if this will help you, but I'll share my setup. I use the SoundBot SB360 which is like $16.00.

It plugs into auxiliary jack, so you could definitely use the tape deck with a female-female 3.5mm collar.

I only have a cd player (no cassette/auxiliary/rca) so I found a guide where I soldered the wires into the cd audio out and play a "silent cd".

My 12v power (cigarette lighter) is always powered on, so for a while, I would just hit the button on the SB360 (turn it on) and it would connect to my phone and launch my tasks.

I recently looked up the specs on my car and found there was a power wire that only comes on when you start the car, so I wired into that.

When my phone connects to the Bluetooth it launches "car mode".

"Car mode" changes "car_mode" variable to "1", stores current volume in a variable, stores current screen brightness in a variable, turns wifi off, turns volume to max, dismisses dangerous audio levels warning, turns screen brightness to max, launches linkme: Torque, Car DashDroid, CaroO Pro (Dashcam & OBD), Waze, Podcast & Radio Addict. Then it plays the podcast.

Not sure if any of this is relevant, I just wanted to share :)

kia ora mate. That car is gonna bring a smile to your face. Take for it spin on someplace like the Tahuna-Ohinewai Rd or even SH30. FYI - BMWorkshop in Auckland are my recommendation. This is what you want to get for bluetooth audio/calling - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is an amazing car for the money - https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2006-bmw-330i-long-term-road-test

You are enjoying one of the better dailydriver BMWs. The steering is hydraulic so you can place the car with confidence and that non-turbo 6 cylinder is creamly responsive.

Cheers.

The dashboard cracking can be prevented by either covering it, or not exposing the car to rapid changes in temperatures constantly. Mine is not cracked, and I don't have it covered either but I may cover it in black alcantera if I swap out my seats for the beige alcantera recaro seats that I have been lusting after for about a year.

The homelink does also cause battery drainage when it malfunctions, thought yes it is easily replaceable, even removable. It's not necessary, and the Bluetooth capabilities are just for calling, no media. I installed this in the car for calling and music playback, it works great. My homelink works fine but I find it useless so I unplugged it.

I find the TL Type S to be one of the most elegant sedans ever made. If this car was made RWD, it would still be giving the E46 M3 a run for its money in all aspects. I feel as if Honda one-upped BMW in that time period with a FWD sedan like they did to Ferrari with the NSX back in the 90's.

I've got an old headunit that I can't let go of. It does have an AUX but it gets annoying dealing with unplugging/replugging in. I use these at work and finally bought one for my car - simple and amazing device. Hands free even works great for phone calls. Just take care on it's mounting location and you cannot go wrong. https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO

One thing that may solve this problem is to use balanced outputs. Since you have an interface that uses RCA, they are not balanced. You would need an interface(like the Scarlett 2i2) with TRS or XLR outputs. Getting a better interface probably isn't in the cards for you, but that is one solution.

A cheaper alternative would be to get a ground loop isolator like this one here for $10:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541691319&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

This product worked like a charm for my JBL's. It looks like you will also have to buy a few different cables as well since yours won't plug into this.

What you could do, it's not the most recommended solution, but you could buy one of these Bluetooth to FM transmitter. One like this.

Basically, you connect your phone to it using bluetooth, and the device then creates an FM signal you can tune in to with your radio. They're not the best probably, but they're cheap and will work in every car that has a cigarette lighter and an FM radio.

=

I bought one for my Mazda 6 since the radio I have is not compatible with the AUX mod and it works great.

The only real problem is that it's pretty prone to interference. If you're playing on frequency 99.90, but there's another channel on or near that frequency as well you're gonna have interference.

I just put mine to the lowest frequency it would go, noone broadcasts there over there so sound quality is great.

It works great. When I get a text my music pauses and it asks me if I want the text read or ignore. I don't have to press the Bluetooth button or the phone. It's completely hands free. After it reads it to me it asks if I want to respond. If I say yes then it waits for my message then it shows me the message and asks if I want to retry or send. AFAIK WP is the only one that is completely hands free for this. iOS and Android require you to press the button. You never have to touch the phone or the Bluetooth button when someone texts you. If you want to send a text you just press and hold the button for a few seconds then voice control kicks in. You can say who to send it to and what the message is by voice alone. I love it.

Edit: This is what I have.

Ah yes I forgot about the mic... So I guess I'll go for the X1s anyway and plug the mic into my motherboard with a jack extension cable and hope for the best.

Just to double check, if that causes a gound loop, a noise isolator like the Mpow one plugged between the X1s and the X2 would work fine right?

Thanks again for being so available, it's greatly appreciated.

Your amp puts out 800W @ 2 ohms. For your budget I'd get:


Sundown SA-12 D4 - $195 (it says 600W but will handle 800W)

[KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit]
(http://amzn.com/B0050I6KII) - $27

Build your own ported box to spec - $30-$50, guides are online, it's fun, and it will fit your car and the subwoofer perfectly and sound way better than any old cheap box.

If your car has aux in you can use something like this. It has a mic built in and can play music and call through your speakers. I have an older junker version of this from Belkin, it's great nonetheless. Surprisingly great sound quality.

Edit: it needs a cigarette lighter jack so be ready for that. My A4 has the aux in and power port in the arm rest compartment so it was perfect.

I like this article. If you go sealed, it's very easy. Ported will provide more output, but you need to know exactly how long/wide your port should be for your subwoofer.

As to what to look for, with any sub and amp, RMS power is all that matters. Stick with name brands you know. Although these aren't phenomenal or anything, with your budget you'll probably be looking for Pioneer, Kicker, Kenwood, Alpine, MTX, Sony, Rockford, JL. Stay away from Boss or anything that's like Boss (designed by a 14 year old boy/only lists peak output).

Lastly, you do need wires to hook all this up. Here's an example. I would recommend that brand unless you wanted to just buy welding wire through a local electrician store (it's the same stuff but cheaper). Everyone around here would recommend 4 gauge, but if you want to do 8 gauge, it'll be perfectly fine (I doubt you're going to end up running a lot of power).

Thanks for the extra suggestions. I also have the X2s and agree they are incredible sounding headphones. If OP has the money to burn then these take the spot of the SHP9500 easy.

For the mic, I prefer the boom mic since I had issues with my keyboard getting picked up on my Blue Snowball while I had it. I even tried putting dampers on my MX Brown keyboard to get rid of the clack. GREAT sound quality, but it picked up literally everything.

As for ground loop hums I've never had a problem with that but something like the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator is a great solution. Using one in my car as it is an incredibly noisy environment for EMI.

Modifications I'd make:

• Replace the wiring kit with this
  
  
• Replace the RCAs with 3 of these
  
  The RCAs in your list are only 1M (3 feet) long which is too short to go from the deck to under the seat. The Knu RCAs are, in my opinion, the best on the market without getting into crazy prices.
  
  As I stated in another comment, I really don't think that sub is going to fit under your seat. It's possible the newer WRX has a different design but based on previous experience with my '01 RS 2.5, and knowing that Subaru hasn't changed the seats much between now and '01, I'm pretty sure it's way too big.
  
  Your deck and amp choices are great.
  

$700 is a little tight for subs, box, wiring, amp, all new door speakers, possible amp for them.

A Dayton HO is a great bang for the buck. Here's about the cheapest amp to push it, that's not a piece of shit. Here's the cheapest 4 gauge wiring kit that's not shit. Here's the cheapest LOC that's not shit. Then you still need a box for the sub. Either building it yourself or buying a prefab is going to run you ~$50. So we're at ~$460 already. I'd throw a Key amp on those factory door speakers and let its DSP do work. So that's $660 total, plus some possible tax or shipping.

Related but separate note, I'd like to see what connector your factory head unit has. There were two possibilities for that vehicle. But I'd think about buying the male and female Metra harnesses for the head unit. It'll make splicing in the Key amp and LOC easier and cleaner. No cutting factory wires. Should be like $30 total. Search 70-1722 and 71-1722 on Amazon for example. If that harness looks like yours, buy em. But it might be the 70-1729 harness?

You will need to buy an amp and sub. It looks like your headunit has preouts so that is good. You can put together a fairly decent sub stage for $500. if you can build a box yourself that will help you budget quite a bit. if you want to save room and still have a pretty decent bump in low end I would look at a single 12" sealed.

Subs:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-ev3-12-subwoofer-e12v3-500w-e-series.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/dcon-12-sound-solutions-audio-12-400w-dcon-series-subwoofer.html

Amp:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/twisted-sounds-ts1kw.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/nvx-bda7501-amplifier.html

wiring kit:

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484576902&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+KOL-AK4

if you have to go with a prefab box i would do something like this if it would fit:

https://www.parts-express.com/denovo-audio-knock-down-mdf-10-cu-ft-subwoofer-cabinet--300-7085

I recommend the Kinivo BTC450. Ive had mine for over a year now its works great. Handsfree calling, auto-connect (big plus for me), music controls and siri activation. Also with this one you won't have to charge every day. Its pretty much plug and play.

But if you like that one more which has good reviews and that works for you i would get it.

If you just need something cheap, something like this would work. It'll just go in between the PC / Sub.

On a budget your best bet is almost always to spend more on the Left / Right speakers and add in the subwoofer as an afterthought. The Micca's are capable speakers but are easily outclassed by the LSR305's. The PSW10 also has (contrary to the amazon reviews) a pretty bad reputation here for chuffing.

My gripe with going for the PSW10 + Micca's is you're skimping on everything. It's a bad sub paired with "OK" speakers. You'll get more bass over the LSR305's, but that's at the sacrifice of overall audio quality.

Honestly my best advice at the moment is this. Start off with a set of speakers (My recommendation being the LSR305's), and see if they can meet your needs / expectations. If you happen to have a guitar center (or any similar store) near you then consider going in to listen in store or buy and return. Amazon likely offers a similar service but I've never returned anything that wasn't broken so YMMV.

sure thing. the box on my desk is a Schiit SYS (the specs are in the imgur album, but I just now posted it in here too as a reply). The SYS is just an input selector with volume control. I am using my motherboard's onboard DAC since it is actually a good one. So an RCA to 3.5mm cable goes out of my PC goes into a ground loop isolator in the back and then the RCA end goes into the SYS.

I have my turntable go into the box on the right of it, which is a phono pre-amp. This brings the turntable audio to line level and makes it suitable for output on my speakers. I have RCA cables go from the preamp into the SYS. So this allows me to switch between PC output or turntable output.

I don't need a separate amp for my speakers because they are powered speakers. They sound great and the whole system is a huge upgrade from my previous ones. I used to have the turntable plug into the PC via USB, but the quality took a huge loss. I used to have my PC go into a separate DAC (actually an audio interface, the Scarlett 2i2, but it is a very capable DAC as well) and then to the speakers. The sound quality when using the Scarlett is the same as having it go out of my motherboard now actually. The biggest difference was getting good speakers and having the turntable go through a phono preamp.

The headset is a steelseries headset that plugs into my PC via USB. I have a pair of ATHM50's, but I don't have a good way to plug them into my PC. I have plugged them into the audio port of my PC and that has been fine, but no way to use headphones with the turntable currently. I may get a headphone amp in the future, but since I live alone, headphone listening isn't a priority.

hope this helps!

This was a issue for me. I wanted something to use on my deck and yard. I just used a first gen solar Eton Ruckus. Plug in a Chromecast audio into its USB charge port and aux port. I needed a noise filter because of a ground loop. This is the one I used, it's about the size of the packets of Lifesavers candy. My ruckus has a pocket, for lack of better term, that holds everything.

http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2

Sugru or Velcro can also attach it to your speaker. The other thing I had was a short micro USB cable to power it. It's definitely less than elegant but it's functional.

Edit: I actually recommend against getting the built-in Chromecast speakers. I'll tell you why, I was into airplay speakers the manufacturers never update them. Some of my earlier airplay speakers barely work with the new operating system. Luckily they do work well still with airfoil and android airplay apps like allstream and AirAudio. If Google actually makes it's own; I would buy one. Or somebody makes one that you can dock a Chromecast audio I'd buy that.

Edit: fixed text (used dictation)

I've got a 2009 AWD. I don't think there's a way of adding an in dash backup camera shy of adding an aftermarket unit, but the parking sensors have always worked great for me.

Bluetooth is for hands free calling only and not music. I've used this for over a year now and it's been great. It's all stored in my center console.

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n9poDbT0NKNK1

got this for my wife for xmas and she loves it, cheap elegant solution that adds no wires anywhere:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451771122&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+cassette+adapter

do recommend you get two after awhile so you can have one ready and charged with less hassle. Remember to remove the film from the roller/reader thing before using for improved sound quality. Cheers!

I had an external Bluetooth adapter that I REALLY liked. It worked better than either of the BT car stereos I have (Pioneer and Clarion) and cost a fraction of what they did. It plugs into the aux port and to USB for power. I had it two years ago and really loved it. It has buttons just like the cord you showed. There might be something better on the market these days, but I can certainly vouch for the clarity and ease of use of this little bugger. In fact, writing this makes me miss it right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1466458793&sr=8-14&keywords=bluetooth+adapter+aux+car

I really like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZA9YAb47229A6

Aptx audio, so quality is great. I've gone through more car Bluetooth adapters than I wish to admit, and I'm finally happy with this one.

But I recommend picking up a ground loop noise isolator regardless of what adapter you go with.

I drive a early 90's toyota and picked up this bluetooth receiver for my car. Your stereo has to have 1/8in audio input(or an adapter), but it works super great and it's only like $23.

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

A little more cable than you are looking for, but I have tried at least half a dozen of these. All were OK for music, but the microphones were crap for phone calls, even in expensive devices from well known brands. The Soundbot SB360 is the best I found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/

Sound quality is excellent and callers tell me they don't know I am on a speakerphone.

You will need a 1/8" f-f stereo adapter to connect to your cassette adapter.

> It's currently in the center armrest, but I would really like to place it elsewhere.

> Also, while I'm at it, would it be possible to add a single USB port in that same general area, for charging a phone? Is there any advice or logic for that?

It sounds like you're playing something off your phone and charging it at the same time, and you have no easy way to change the music. Right?

I'm about to blow your mind. Boom.

integrated USB charger, minijack input, easy bluetooth pairing, high quality audio, hands-free calling with noise cancellation, and play/pause/skip/seek.

It's no where near 1000w rms, but I second the 4 awg as a minimum.

This kit be perfect for your needs. Knu has true gauge wire (if not oversized) and their prices are great.

Never seen that website before. That would be a bit overkill. The speakers look good tho.

If you're looking to save money you can go with something like this.
Amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HY84/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328240&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=510stvQfv1L&ref=plSrch
Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328354&sr=8-23&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=6.5+coaxial+speakers

Now if you go that route you'll need an amp install kit. Knu koncepts of very well loved here. I have this same kit in my car.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328557&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51T-yGZf9YL&ref=plSrch

This will give you plenty of wire for when you add the sub + amp.

Enclosure and wiring kit. Pioneer recommends a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure. Sorry I can't find a premade one at those specs, you may have to build it yourself or commission one to be made for you. There are other guys on this subreddit who love that shit though!

As for the wiring kit most people agree KnuConceptz is the best. Here's their 4 gauge which would work fine for this application.

Edit: Oh yeah, if you're keeping your factory headunit you'll need a way to get an audio signal to your amp :P Most popular way of doing this is a line out converter

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

It's fun as hell do drive, especially in town. I love that it was designed by engineers who were aware that horsepower is not a be all end all. I live in Pittsburgh and can accellerate onto the parkway and up hills as fast as my lead-foot desires, and it's really a joy to throw into a curve.

Before picking the two, I test drove a Fiesta, a Fit, a Soul, and an SX4. I'd have added the Chevy Cruze to the mix, but I wanted a hatchback and wasn't willing to wait for the 2012s to become available. The Fit and Soul were both roomy, but under-powered. The Fiesta had a numb shifter, the SX4 had a too-lightly sprung accelerator, and the Soul's shifter was placed so closely to the seat that I found myself banging my elbow against the seat every time I changed gears.

My only complaints with the Mazda2 are that the gap between 1st and 2nd gear is big, and it is less than desirable for tall people, which is actually not my problem: I'm 5'11, but most of that is leg, and the Mazda2 has great leg room for its size. Also, they managed to put speed-sensitive volume adjustment, 2 trip computers, a fuel economy computer, and an ambient temperature display in it, but no bluetooth. I ended up buying one of these.

Not really overlooked, but I love the convenience of a magnetic mobile car dock (the one I have was extendable, and doesn't seem available anymore).

If your car is old and doesn't have built in bluetooth but does have an aux port - this is a great bluetooth receiver with built in mic (I got mine for INR 1747)

Wiring

Obsidian Audio Subs

Amp

I'm not the best on amps but for a budget like that, this should be good enough. The best thing for a box is either to build it yourself because you won't get the sound you want from a prefab. Try to find someone in the area (Car shop, Car Audio place, Audio place) that can make you a box.

So I've decided to go with your recommendations of the E12 and the Fosgate R500X1D. I was wondering if I could save a few dollars on the wiring kit though, as it seems a bit pricey. I found a Belva kit here that's half the price. I've heard bad things about their amps+subs but this wiring kit has good reviews.

I also found this kit by KnuKonceptz that's similarly priced to the Belva kit. Does the kit you linked include something that makes it worth twice as much?

Also, would you be so kind as to recommend a good Line Out Converter?

EDIT: I see that the R500X1D has speaker level inputs. Does that mean I don't need to get a LOC? Do you have any input, /u/dangercdv ?

This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vsGIDbCXA7R6Z


I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4tGIDbQDWD06Q

I ordered this hands-free mount from Amazon and it's a good one. Thanks to voice recognition I can say "Hey Google, load the TDOT Smartway webserver" and it'll pop up. And with Bluetooth, I can take calls over my car's stereo system instead of using my hands. If you have an older car without Bluetooth, you can add it for $18 with this adapter. I have one in my older Subaru, and it's good to go there. It has a surprisingly good microphone built-in, as well as a quick charger.

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.

​

I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.

​

I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

OK. So here is where I am. I have decided to first work on installing an aftermarket DOUBLE-DIN head unit with Bluetooth wireless speakerphone, Aux-in, etc. (and I will do the amp + subwoofer in the next phase).

So far I've purchased:

1. Dash Kit which is apparently appropriate for my 1999 Lexus LS400: Scosche LS2085B
   
2. Wire Harness Kit which someone on Amazon reported worked flawlessly for an aftermarket stereo in their 1998 Lexus LS400: [Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_3)
   
   Now (I believe) the only thing left for me to purchase is a double-din aftermarket head unit. Do you happen to know of any that would be compatible with this setup? Or am I pretty much able to use any head unit I want because I've installed a dash kit?
   
   Thank you so, so, so much. I can't tell you how much your help means.

Yes, I have one of these. Yes, it will auto-connect once paired. I would recommend a unit with the ability to skip tracks like the one posted above. It is a lot easier to change songs with a push of a button.
https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487627478&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbot+bluetooth
I use this in my other car.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports AptX

Mine doesn't so i got one of these and I use it every day. I love it. It auto connects as soon as I turn my car on, if I have Bluetooth enabled on my phone (which i usually do.) Many cars build before cars came with bluetooth have audio input jacks to go into the stereo and you can put it on AUX mode to use it. I used to use a 3.5 mm male to male cable to plug my phone in, but this is way easier, it never goes dead because it plugs into the cars power adapter (cig-lighter). Basically it works the same as having Bluetooth built in when you have an older car with out Bluetooth built in. :)

Alrighty, here we go:

Step 1 - I picked up a Kinovo Hands Free setup. Uses AptX codecs so the sound is high quality. I had to change the aux plug to something more low-profile to still use the cup holder. You can see it installed HERE, along with a magnetic phone mount and old phone showing the Torque app.

The next steps were done because I only had the base sound system, which leaved a lot to be desired.

Step 2 - Installed Kicker DSC35 speakers in the dash. See first pic HERE.

Step 3 - Install Saab OEM 6x9 woofers in the rear deck for $50 on ebay. See pics 2&3 of the imgur album.

Connect them to an amplifier. I got the amp for free from a buddy at work. He didn't need it and it had water damage, so I was lucky it worked. Pics 4-5 of the album. The amp had speaker level inputs, so I tapped the door woofer ouputs from the stock amplifier and use the 6x9s like mini subs.

The front kickers gave me real treble, and the woofers can thump pretty good. All in all, I've spent probably less than $150. I'll probably swap out the rear small speakers to something better soon, and I may add a real sub to fill out the low end better.

Pretty sure it's not a problem to do what you are asking, although I use a car kit for both streaming and phone calls. My wife and I both have this unit in our cars

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and love it. The sound quality is really good (to our ears, anyway) and it's very reasonably priced. Check out the reviews.

Ok in all seriousness get an aux to bluetooth adapter like this Kinivo BTC 450.

There are a bunch of them out there, but I have/recommend the Kinivo because it supports aptX (high quality sound over bluetooth). I think Belkin makes a pretty solid one as well.

Besides the usual safety things like a jack or window smasher I would get a cassette to Bluetooth insert like this or a cassette to aux like this the radio isn’t much fun and you can then play your own music. I think a name that kinda comes naturally will end up being more meaningful than a forced one from the internet.

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent

Edit:

You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

Sorry little lady. Well.. depends how into your cars audio system are you, do you really care how it sounds(I.e Planning for future upgrades), or are you just wanting a quick fix?

Something like this would be super quick and easy, if your radio has RCA inputs on the back.

Question, do you know which radio it is? Base, Premium etc.

If you're interested in Bluetooth on the cheap, I got a Bluetooth adapter from Amazon for about $19. Plugged it in to a 3.5mm to cassette adapter in my 25 year old 4runner and it works great! Definitely recommend.

Edit: I got this one

There are plenty of tutorials online. Are you using a stock rx-8 stereo or aftermarket? To keep things as simple as I possibly can, you'll need to run a power line from the battery to the amplifier with an in-line fuse. Run a ground wire from the amplifier to any grounded metal. You also need to run the remote wire. If you're using an aftermarket stereo, they always have a remote line in the wiring harness. I'm not sure if the rx-8 stock radio does or not. You can also run the remote line to your fuse box but you need to make sure the fuse only gets power when the car is turned on or your amp will suck power out of your battery when the car is off. Those are the three main cables you need to turn the amp on. Now you'll need the cables that will provide audio signal from your stereo. So you'll need to run an rca cable from your stereo to the amplifier. If the rx-8 doesn't have subwoofer rca out, you can always use a speaker wire -to- rca adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tKuJBbQ5H9RKZ
This will let you run speaker wire from your speakers to this adapter and convert that signal to rca for your amplifier. This way means that the the subs will be acting as normal full range speakers but if you just want some bass it'll work fine. Then you'll need to run speaker wire from your amp to your subs. It's complicated in words and there are plenty of videos out there so I recommend watching them and following along. Good luck!

I know you asked about an amp kit from Sonic, but I would highly recommend getting this kit from Amazon.

Some of the low end brands on Sonic that sell amp kits won't give you wire that's as thick as they actually it is (i.e. some '4 gauge' cables will have thicker sheathes and less wire than others). Knu Konceptz over-sizes their wires plus this kit is made with oxygen-free copper instead of cheaper copper clad aluminum, which would provide better current flow and OFC doesn't corrode as easily. It's a great deal for the price.

This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.

​

I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...

• The head unit
  
• Maestro ADS-MRR
  
• Maestro HRN-RR-TO2 Plug and Play T-Harness for TO2 Toyota Vehicles (this will be different for other cars)
  
• Maestro Acc-SAT-TO2 Sat Radio and GPS Antenna adaptors for TO2 Vehicles (this will be different for other cars)
  
• Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable - Select 2009-Up Lexus/Toyota (this will be different for other cars)
  
• AXXESS AX-TOYUSB - USB-Auxilliary Retention Harness - USB adaptor to retain the OE USB in select Toyota vehicles (this will be different for other cars)
  
• Metra 95-8226B Dash Kit for Toyota Prius 2010 Double DIN (though I actually went with the OEM Toyota one as it looked better, link here for reference)
  
• A nicer mic
  
• Audio tuner mic
  
• Some giant spudgers
  
• I'm sure I'm missing something else here, but eh.
  
  ​
  
  I believe I set aside a Saturday afternoon to swap it out myself, and also install a dash cam with both front and rear cameras (the car already had backup camera built in). I ended up working on this through all of the weekend, and then did some more tweaks the following weekend.

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6pzFybQ1Z9Q0D

I'm sure others like it would work.

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

It's most likely not CB, it's probably HAM (amateur radio). Like /u/a_crazy_horse said, if you ask him, he will probably help you eliminate the interface, although he is not legally required to.

Your headphones and computer are a FCC Part 15 device, and must accept all unwanted interference by law, but that doesn't mean he's not a nice guy who likes solving problems like that.

Onto further diagnosing. Something is acting as an antenna for you, it could be the headphone wire, or any of the other numerous cables running into your computer. I'd start with ferrite chokes and see if that stops it. With the electrical wiring in your house being the longest wire that the computer is connected to, I would start with your computers power cord, then the headphones, but it won't hurt to do both.

In regards to other comments here, 4 watts is the legal maximum on CB, for amateur it is 1500 watts. Also, the police will do nothing for you. It's a waste of yours and their time to try. You can try the FCC, and they would probably tell you to talk to the neighbor first, which takes us back to the top of this comment. But ultimately, the FCC is responsible for things like this.

On a side rant, nobody ever speaks to their neighbors anymore when they have a problem, communication is wonderful.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1501183446&sr=8-7&keywords=bluetooth+car

This is the most amazing one I've used. Perfect sound clarity on phone calls as well.

I was in your same shoes about a year ago. The market for these devices has evolved considerably since then.

I personally own and use this one from Belkin:
Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version

Like I said, I purchased that a year ago tho.

Recently I purchased this one for a friend:
Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX

Its a little nicer in that it has navigation controls on top. The Belkin one requires multiple taps of a button for navigation and I have found it is hit or miss.

Here is one that is a little more discrete but doesn't have the USB port the others do that allow you to charge your phone:
Griffin Technology BlueTrip AUX for iPhone and Smartphones

Hope this helps!

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Author: /u/ohNole

Title: I purchased a phone charger off of Amazon and it broke my phone.

Original Post:

> The charger in question is here. I plugged my phone in and it went black after a few minutes, then went into this cycle of showing the Apple screen then going black again - over and over until it died. Tried the phone this morning and to no avail - same thing. My phone's battery is shot, the home button/finger scanner is not functioning due to lack of power (can't do hard reset), and the phone won't turn on.
> At the least I want Amazon to cover the price of the replacement battery (if that's the solution), but what happens if the phone is shot? Is amazon liable? The page even specifically says, "Smart output current pairs all cellphone and tablet, safely charging to your device without damage to the battery."




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• I like the Moto Power Pack Micro. Handy to have a keychain battery pack, which can also act as a phone finder and trusted device.
  
  
• Also have to give props to the Hula case that my phone came with. Makes it nice and grippy.
  
  
• The Kinivo BTC 450 car bluetooth adapter is great if you have an old car that lacks built-in bluetooth.

Ok, I think I got this.

-

1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
   
2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
   
3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
   
4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
   
5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.
   
   So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?
   
   Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

Cool beans :)

Might be able to improve results with the third party supply by wrapping the cable a few times through a big clip on ferrite like this https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543299320&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rfi+filter&psc=1&smid=A2C3AMRQC5GI7N

I would get this wire kit instead: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417578842&sr=8-2&keywords=knuconcepts+4guage

It is Oxygen Free Copper and has a higher current capacity. The wire you chose has a max rating of 100Amps. Your amp has 120Amps worth of fuses on it. So you will want to get a better wire.

The one I posted should be perfect.

Funny you should mention that, I think all Z5's DO share the issue, because I bought the first set from Best Buy, returned them because they wouldn't price match, got the same speakers from amazon, and am now just praying that the ones suggested work, because oh my god returning stuff is a pain in the ass.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 Heck I wonder if one of these might help lol.

Also, it's sudden volume changes you say?

I bought this and I’m super happy with it.

Only thing is Siri is really muffled for some reason, but music is extremely clear, and I’m picky.

Since it stays plugged in, it doesn’t need charging. My phone pairs with it right when I turn my car on, and I say “hey Siri, resume podcast” and don’t have to touch anything. It’s nice.

I'm not discounting the problem at all. I completely agree.

Have you looked at the car Bluetooth adapters?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.L33AbA1WWYSD

I don't endorse that one specifically, but I've been using one for years in my car. Automatically connects when I get in, they're pretty excellent.

You can connect your phone to multiple devices that handle different features. My BF's Maxima only has phone support, but he uses a Kinivo Bluetooth Receiver plugged into the aux port for A2DP audio. Phone calls still go through the car's handsfree system. I recommend you look for a bluetooth receiver that supports Apt X to get better audio quality. This is the one we use

​

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

I have not used the mophie wireless charging car vent mount, so I cannot comment on that product, though it does look pretty neat if it works well. In case others comment and share a negative experience about that product, I wanted to share my setup for a few ideas.

I have an iPhone XS Max, so no headphone jack, and an older car, so no built-in bluetooth.

I use the iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder to mount my phone to the windshield.

(I noticed you mentioned a vent mount, there are plenty of options available for that type of mount as well.)

Then, I use the Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kit - this allows me to play my music on my phone via bluetooth by connecting an audio cable into the Aux jack in my car and I can charge my phone using a lightning cable. I chose this model since it is powered via the car charger instead having to deal with rechargeable bluetooth adapters.

It may seem a little clunky, but it works well until I purchase a new car (I'm currently at 185,000 miles).

Products Mentioned:

iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder for iPhone X 8/8 Plus 7 7 Plus 6s Plus 6s 6 SE Samsung Galaxy S9 S9 Plus S8 Plus S8 Edge S7 S6 Note 8 5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRGOKQ8/

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739RGDFJ/

​

• Maestro RR that handles communicating with steering wheel controls and CAN bus (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4W1644/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• TO2 harness to tie the Maestro RR into existing wire harnesses (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K02TMKQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• sTO2 to retain factory GPS and Siruis XM antennas (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• PAC USB-TY1 to retain factory USB (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0YJ49O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Metra 40-LX11 antenna adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Sirius XM tuner is OPTIONAL! You don't need this if you don't subscribe. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Metra 99-8251B dash kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BTSW5YA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1)
  
  And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

If the Technics Amp does not have PRE-AMP output, then this gets difficult. It can probably be done, but it is unclear how well it will work.

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/sa-103.shtml

There are Speaker Level to Line Level (RCA) converters that are meant of car stereos. But they might work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFHLC-Speaker-Signal-Adapter/dp/B009VTDVMU/

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

Though search AMAZON for "speaker level to line level converter" though be aware that it doesn't always return the correct products. But you will see some similar to those above.

If you are willing to seek alternatives, then give us a working budget for those alternatives.

Also important, what is the source of your sound? TV? Turntable? Computer? CD Player? Network Streaming? Other? All of the above? None of the above?

I'm guessing absolute minimum for an alternative solutions is going to be in the $50 to $100 range. But to make those suggestions we need to know what is going into the system in terms of sources of sound. And we need a clear declaration of your working budget.

I have this one http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60 and it's easily the best thing I've ever bought for my car.

It works perfectly

I used the aux kit and added a bluetooth amp for 50 bucks.

Car connects when it turns on and can play music just fine without some bullshit FM transmitter. Cost $100.

All wireless and the voice works as well.

You wire everything into the armrest and I drilled holes for the transmitter placed just below the stick shift. Barely noticeable and I can switch songs very quickly;.

I thought I would be buying a double din setup down the road but I am very impressed with this setup so far. My phone can stay in my pocket all the music and calls work seamlessly.

I think if I did my speakers I would just add a 4 channel amp in the trunk and bybass a headunit all together.


Before I bought the bluetooth dongle I just plugged phone directly into the aux kit using it's 3.5mm. I thought the dongle would drop quality over the phones built in amp but I have noticed no difference and now it's fully wireless and has a built in mic for calls.

Here's my setup:

Aux Kithttps://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISNI531-Automotive-Auxiliary-Infiniti/dp/B0072L7W7O/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=g35+aux+kit&qid=1571875449&sr=8-2

The amp- This one works great turns on and off with car.

https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sxin_4_osp48-96dd736e_cov?ascsubtag=96dd736e-c0e4-4c96-99e7-fa0f3d21e869&creativeASIN=B0769DXZTV&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.96dd736e-c0e4-4c96-99e7-fa0f3d21e869&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=car+bluetooth+receiver&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B0769DXZTV&pd_rd_r=8d2fbcf6-71bf-405e-9764-04801f0a8240&pd_rd_w=D03Wj&pd_rd_wg=sXdZq&pf_rd_p=a23a388c-add5-49df-b293-a31ade89c6bf&pf_rd_r=1ZFRS8ED3NNK4AR3BD1X&qid=1571875483&tag=spyonsite-20

Oh! Then you're ready to roll! The set should've come with some set up instructions. The setup should look like this:

Xbox USB and Optical go into the mixamp

Headset connects to mixamp

Stream/aux out goes from the mixamp to your PC's 3.5 audio-in port. You'll be able to add that audio as a source in OBS.

But before you do all this, install the Astro software on your PC so you can program the mixamp. I recommend setting it up so that ONLY chat audio goes through the 3.5 port, not the game audio (game audio will be better quality if you just use the audio from the HDMI/elgato).

Tweaking your sound levels will take some time because (as far as I know) you don't really have a way of monitoring/listening to what your viewers will hear as your streaming. What I did was record myself playing a quick game , joining chat and trying to talk as much as possible, then going back and listening to the recording. Based on what you hear, you tweak your game audio, chat audio and mic audio levels. I had to do this several times before I found a balance I was content with.

One last thing is that if you hear some high pitch interference coming from the 3.5 audio, you'll need a loop ground noise isolator. Here's the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, any decent amp should come with the remote gain knob (shitty amps come with bass boost knob, which you absolutely do not want to use), if it doesn't just pick up a PAC-LC1 for $10-15. Lots of people running very high end gear run those, it's especially helpful for controlling multiple amps at once since it attenuates the input signal.

I have one of these Bluetooth adapters in my Mazda. It plugs in to the aux input and it has physical buttons and a microphone on a small unit with a magnetic release that you put somewhere convenient. You could connect either your Android or your iPhone to it and then the other phone to your car's Bluetooth. It's a kludge but maybe it will accomplish what you need.

I was told that my 2017 Alltrack would accept two simultaneous Bluetooth connections, but that appears to be incorrect. Interestingly, the instructions for that Bluetooth adapter also say that two simultaneous connections are possible, but I haven't been able to get it to work either. Bluetooth is just bad.

Whine is caused by the unfiltered impulse charger .. You need something based on a voltage regulator, these are rare (usually cheap chinese chargers) but it's easy to build one yourself. Docking station won't solve your problems if it's still using impulse charger (most likely). Alternatively you could use DC/DC converter ie. AimTec AM3N-0505S

Edit: just found dedicated car ground loop isolators: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI worth a try if you don't mind this hanging from your AUX port ;)

You can get a BT receiver that plugs into the Aux jack. Works great with my 1+1. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

The only thing the 1+1 is missing is Apt-X support which would provide higher quality Bluetooth audio. That said, in the car, it all sounds great given the noisy environment you are in.

Yes, it would require power. Some receivers have batteries that need to be recharged, others just need to be plugged in via USB (which is NBD for me, since I always have a car charger for my phone anyways).

I've been using the SB360 for the last couple years and I've been quite happy with it, as have the other people who I've recommended it to.

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mxhEAb3X8FAC7

Speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370878816&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Amp:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67751_Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2.html

Radio w/ 3 sets of pre outs to make your life easier:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0073V1NP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370879138&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370879267&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

That Boss wire is more like 10awg than 8. Get this instead. Not their best, but at least you won't have to run a new power wire unless you have plans to eventually go over ~900w total (theoretically this wire can handle ~1000w).

Also, if you plan on eventually doing your rear speakers, you should just get the 4-ch version of that amp.

All in all, this'll be more expensive by ~$100. But it'll sound much better, you'll be making your life easier for future upgrades, and you won't have to buy and run new wiring unless you end up going with big power.

it wouldn't be an FM transmitter if it plugged into the aux jack. It'd be a blutooth receiver.

I have this one and I love it. Works perfect in my 2007 Honda Fit with stock headunit.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY

I use this in my Kia at the moment. Works great! Wish it has a forward/rewind part at times, but it plays pretty well otherwise.

Also get a noise isolator in case you want to charge things at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW&pd_rd_w=KXZVR&pd_rd_wg=tSvLf&psc=1&refRID=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW

Post Removed so I'm pasting it here as sub suggested:

I just got a Samsung UN50RU7100 TV. Only audio output options are Bluetooth, "TV Speaker" and "Digital Audio Out (Optical)". I want to connect my old B&W DM330s.

Considering either:

A) Getting an optical to RCA adapter and then an amplifier and then converting the loose speaker wires to RCA (https://www.amazon.ca/Techole-Converter-192kHz-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07XMLGXFD/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=optical+to+rca&qid=1574355994&sprefix=optical+to+&sr=8-4) (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Preamplifier-Headphone-Amplifier-Audio/dp/B07TJS2DBT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=amplifier&qid=1574357280&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=ADPE7GPX91ORE&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE5S1lPWE9IUFlDSUcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2ODcxMTBVOUdPWVJTWlVKOUQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQzNTA0OVlUODBIT1ozNUxPWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl) (https://www.amazon.ca/Haokiang-Speaker-Terminal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07FQ7TCMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=speaker+wire+to+rca&qid=1574357340&sr=8-4)

B) use the same amplifier and speaker wire adapters as A but instead of optical use a Bluetooth device (https://www.amazon.ca/TUNAI-Firefly-Smallest-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=bluetooth+receiver&qid=1574357436&sprefix=bluetooth+receiber&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySzZBVUdaVldSSEVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTczMDc1SVBBSlpaUFdNTlBMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NzEwNzQxTjk2MzQzR0c0MzlIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=)

Which option should I go for? Will I lose sound quality going Bluetooth? Is there a better way to do this I haven't thought of? Any suggestions appreciated. Cheers.

You want to get a d2 sub. That means it's dual voicecoil, 2ohms per coil. coils would be wired parallel for a 1 ohm final load. A 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be fine. I would spend the few extra dollars for a nice OFC (oxygen free copper) kit over a kit that uses CCA(copper clad aluminum) Here is a really good choice, has all you need http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344479367&sr=1-2&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

>So, it should look like this?

Yes.

>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

happy to say it fixed my issue :D thank you very much...though I am going to return this and buy one from amazon because this filter + 2 trs adapters cost 30 bucks (each adapter was 7$)

i can get this from amazon for 8 bucks and not even need any adapters cus it has 3.5mm female which i can put my dual 1/4 to 3.5mm in :)

should this also work?

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449259813&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+filter

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

November 11th. And hmm boy :)

20.00 and 40.00
Thanks so much and congrats!

The simplest way is to get a passive volume control, like this one, or a higher end one, like the mackie big knob passive. I have that one and like it a lot.

A better way is a dac/amp combo like the fiio k3, schiit fulla 2, etc.

You plug the speakers into the dac output using the correct cable, set the physical volume on your speakers (I usually go around 75%) and use the volume knob on the dac/amp to adjust while listening. And being that you're using the dac instead of onboard sound, you'll probably get less noise and interference.

I bought this 3.5mm isolator to work with my fucky setup, and it works wonderfully.

I do Switch -> HDMI -> Computer monitor without speakers -> audio out to external computer speakers -> Isolator -> Line in to PC -> usb to wireless headset.

It's great because if I pull the isolator out of the speakers, sound goes through the speakers. If I plug it in, sound (both PC and Switch) goes through the headset. Great for watching Netflix while grinding stuff in Fire Emblem Warriors!

I have an old Alpine MRP-M350 in my car. Paired with SWS-12D4.

First you have to pick your amp. But it also helps to know how many Amps your Alternator puts out. My alt puts out 150 amps, which is uncommonly high for a sedan. The reason for knowing your alternator is because if you have a weak alt, you will get headlight dimming very easily. No one likes headlight dimming.

After you know how many amps you have to work with off your alt. Then you get an amp. Something like this is pretty middle of the road:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine-500w-class-d-digital-mono-amplifier-with-low-pass-crossover-black/7551285.p?skuId=7551285

After you have you amp, you need a sub. Pick any dual voice coil sub. Dual four is good. When wired in parallel it makes it 2ohms.

https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

Now you have sub and amp. TIme for wiring. You need a wiring kit.

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=lp_3308787011_1_12?srs=3308787011&ie=UTF8&qid=1491479560&sr=8-12

You will want Oxygen Free Copper, not Copper Clad Aluminum. Pure copper is what you are after. Anything else is junk.

Now you have your parts. Amp. Sub. Fat ass wire (4 gauge).

Run the power wire from the battery to where ever you want your amp, most people put it in the trunk. Make sure you have the inline fuse holder close the battery, within 12 inches.

Next, from the back if your stereo, you are going to run two wires. A remote wire that leads to the amp. And pair of RCA cables also to the amp. Next you are going to run a ground to the amp. The ground is simple because most people just find a bare metal in the trunk and use that.

Then you hook the power wire to the power terminal on the amp. Then the remote wire to the remote terminal on the amp. Then plug in the RCAs into the amp also. Power wire gives the amp power, remote wire turns the amp on and off with your car so you dont drain the battery because its always on. The RCAS give the amp an audio signal. Lastly, you go back and install the fuse, in the in line fuse box near the battery. And now you have a complete circuit, and thus, a working amp.

As for the AUX jack, I bought this which plugs into the back of your stock stereo. (Which should work on your Jeep, but I would pull out your stereo to make sure the jack for it is actually there). Then I bought this and hooked everything up and it works perfectly.

I had the exact same issue. A PC and a few consoles, constantly having to plug headphones between them, it got annoying. I solved this issue with a simple sound mixer (less than 30 bucks on Amazon Germany, couldn't find it on Amazon US, but here's the exact model on Ebay). Four different devices just plug into the mixer and one output goes to my speaker, which in turn has my headphones and my bass cushion (it's a thing and it's amazing) plugged into it. Note that I had to use various adapters and converters, since this particular sound mixer uses 6.35mm mono audio jacks (two of them for each device), which I converted to RCA (use mono, not stereo adapters). PS2 and PS3 just connect directly via RCA with their analog cables, my Xbox One uses an HDMI audio extractor (powered by one of the console's USB ports) and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and my PC the same kind of adapter, without the converter, of course.

The big advantage of this is that I don't have to switch between anything. All sound ends up in my headphones, without me having to do anything after the initial ten minute setup (which really just consisted of plugging everything in).

It is worth mentioning that with cheap sound mixers like the one I'm using there's likely going to be some humming and other noises, which my speakers thankfully filter out entirely before they reach my headphones. You may need an additional filter, which are however rather cheap. With my headphone directly plugged into the mixer, which I did just for testing, I also noticed that the general sound level was very low, which once again wasn't an issue anymore once I had plugged my speaker in between mixer and headphones.

good point, was planning on getting some thing like this if that is the case to help defuse.

always open for other suggestions tho... :)

I have this one and love it!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLTW60/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416721052&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

It has buttons on it to pair, pause/play, and volume control. I have it in my center console compartment with my aux port, never touch it really, I use my phone mounted on the dash. 99% of the time it connects automatically when I turn my Bluetooth on, the other one percent I have to open the console and just tap the main button real quick and it pairs.

Another nice thing is the cigarette charger for the power has an aux converter built in as well. Can't speak highly enough about the unit, I researched a few and they're all around this price range too.

Here's some more!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?k=bluetooth+car+adapter

Not sure about the 2010, but my previous car (02 Taurus) had a tape deck. A CD player, or if you were really rich, a 6-CD changer were options. I ended up buying a bluetooth cassette adapter which worked OK.

I got this......
Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports AptX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


With this device I am able to just connect via Bluetooth instead of aux and free up the USB c Port for charging.

The device works perfectly everytime

Get this. I've had it for over a year in my Cadillac and it works perfectly. Whenever you hop in just push the button and it's ready. The built in mic makes the speaker phone flawless too.

Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_q3tVub0FDH3GV

I got this one a few weeks ago for my wife and ended up buying another one for me to replace the one I was using. It works really well. It pairs automatically to your phone when you turn on the ignition. You can skip songs. It gives you hand free phone and access to Siri without getting your phone out. Well worth the price. Since I stopped using cable about two years ago I haven't had to fiddle with the connection to have stereo or any sound at all (every few month I had to replace the cable).

A while back I found several under $20 on Amazon. I bought this one and it works fine: https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473310035&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+auto

I used to use the 3.5mm jack but wireless is actually a nicer experience, just start the car and it pairs and I can press a button on it to start the music (and skip tracks etc).

I much prefer bluetooth everything and no wires, I am not going to mourn the 3.5mm jack, I'm looking forward to more and better wireless solutions.

are you talking about plug and play leds like these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDQ8BK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1

what brand did you use, and would you recommend it.




also ferrit beads like this?

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527192099&sr=8-4&keywords=ferrite+beads&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

Yes, avoid +db on any part of your signal path, be it a head unit setting or bass boost knob.

Set gains to maximize clean output, then use something like an RCA cable volume knob to dial down your sub to taste.

In my garage, I run a chromecast hooked up to this guy running a pair of 8" speakers from the 80s. :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT It's 20w and powers them just fine for the whole 2-car garage. I'm not recommending that for high volume, but it does the job. A used receiver would work really well too, they're just much larger.

​

You can get a pretty simple RCA pot volume control knob on amazon that you could use for the sub. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/

A friend of mine talked to me about noise filters today. I honestly don't know if it works for a microphone but if you are willing to sacrifice a few dollars for a hopefully working fix then this little thing might help removing the noise from the microphone.

A shop that installs audio professionally will probably know more about electrical noise than a regular auto shop or mechanic by the way so if the shop who installed your radio doesn't know see if you can find a car audio shop in your area and ask them.

$14

$26

Personally, I'd splurge for teh $26 unit since it has the ground loop isolator, and hands free calling, but the cheaper one offers less clutter.

Like I said, whether you have a headphone jack or not, I'd definitely consider either of those a good investment. And it has the bonus of making the lack of a headphone jack in your car an afterthought.

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

I just got a dedicated Bluetooth cassette tape: https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

It's awesome that you don't even know it's there and the battery lasts like 1.5 months.

So when I bought mine I ordered one of these amplifier controller thingies. I have it connected between my DAC and the 305's. It works well enough but I've found it more convenient just to adjust the volume in Windows. I have the actual volume on the back of each monitor set to "5" to prevent me from easily maxing out the volume in windows. With the volume at 5 these are plenty loud enough for a desk.

You had the right idea with the line level controller. I personally don't hear a difference between in sound quality with using the line level controller and having it disconnected but I know some people are much more critical than I am.

Good luck with your setup!

You have several options:

1. Easy, cheapest, move on with your life
   Buy the cable sociojeje linked (or whatever one you want as long as it goes from one 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 inch). Plug 3.5mm into soundcard/onboard audio and 1/4 inch into the inputs on each speaker. Since you want to leave the volume control on the back of the monitors in one position and never touch it again, with this setup you will be using your PC for volume control, which usually sucks.
   
   2)I want to control volume outside of windows approach
   Get an inline volume control (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002J226O/?coliid=I21HE0GYZHPUID&colid=1VYF10R99G2UC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it is the cheapest one I can find). You get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable from your pc to the input on the volume control, then two rca to 1/4" from the control to the monitors. Leave windows at like 75-100% volume (you are going to have to experiment) and use the volume knob on the inline to control volume. This is also the ideal solution if you have an external DAC or buy one at some point (which you should)
   
   3)I want all the things, but dont want to spend a lot of money
   Buy this: https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540965426&sr=8-2&keywords=micca+origen+g2
   
   This an external DAC AND headphone amplifier in one. What makes this one special, is that you can switch between headphone out and line out (speaker) with the toggle switch at the front. This will replace your soundcard once its plugged in by USB and will also serve as your volume control. If you have headphones, it would be plugged into this as well. Cable wise, it would be USB from PC to the Dac (included with unit), then two RCA to 1/4" mono cables from the dac/headphone amp to the speakers

Oh man it was stupid easy. Took maybe 5 minutes to do total.

Bought this and this from Amazon and installed with the factory radio. It just plugs right into the back with no issue on my non-JBL radio.

Both come with good instructions and a quick YouTube search to learn how to pop the radio out made quick work of it. Sound quality is crystal clear.

I loath aftermarket radios. The way they look and function is just hideous compared to where technology is. Alternatively I can't afford a $600 touchscreen unit. I'm a firm believer in just leaving things alone, leaving them stock so this fit right into my budget and methods. Very happy with the way it turned out. Sleek, elegant and simple.

I don't have RDS, but I do have the JBL Synthesis system, that looks like this.

That said, I have some confusion with the wiring harness...

1. Do I NEED to pick up a JBL wiring harness just so that I can use the factory amp/sub?
   
2. Can I use the regular wiring harness like this one, or will I need to pick up another one?
   
   
   Thanks
   
   

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

https://www.operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/2319/op-1-noise-fix

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

TL;DR -- OPTIONS:

1. BT-->Aux car kit adapter, with a big button that, when held, gives voice assistant prompt. also handy for pause/resume without reaching for stereo deck.

2. Physical Mic-button on my Pioneer stereo unit.

3. Eventually finding and troubleshooting why my Android phone won't listen to mic for ambient "OK GOOGLE" requests when screen is locked/asleep. I'm not there yet.

---
Option 1.

Before I bought my new stereo for my new-old-car, I bought a highly-recommended MPOW BT-->AUX car kit from Amazon after scouring reviews.

I hated it.

It directly led to me shelling out almost $500 for a new head unit, steering control adapter and enough cabling to wire a space shuttle prepping to go into orbit.

BUT I haven't yet returned it to Amazon, and after admiring its One Big Button on the face of the thing (and the elegant magnet mount) I figured "what the hell."

My Android phone still paired with it automatically, even while also paired to the head unit simultaneously.

I pushed the button and it paused my music.

I booped the button again and it unpaused.

I pressed it firmly for FOUR OR FIVE FREAKING SECONDS and it promped me with the Google Assistant cue. Success.

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Option 2.
I checked the PDF manuals online (pg's 26/27) and found the following Pioneer AVH-series head units have essentially the same instructions for "Voice Recognition (for iPhone)" which appears to have the correct equivalent behavior for Android devices (and I'm assuming the other NEX series models have the same button):

AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400NEX

[AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400]
(https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/AVH-2440_2400_1440_1400NEX_OpManual062918.pdf)

That fat little bumblebee logo on my stereo was actually an obvious Mic emblem the whole while. This is technically a physical button that will consistently prompt my Google Assistant, even if the button is smallish and doesn't really lend itself to pressing without looking (I'll orient my hands against the 'Eject' button seated to the ride of it).

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Option 3.
I think the holy grail would be if I could figure out why the menu for (Android P) Settings-->Assist App (Settings)-->"Voice Match" grays out "Access with Voice Match" in order to access Assistant any time even if screen is off.

If anybody has experience with this, I'd love to hear about it.

My car is weird about bluetooth (it only does phone calls), so I've strongly considered getting that HTC Bluetooth Clip thingy. But, to be honest, I'd probably go with something like this Belkin Bluetooth Car Kit (currently $44.79 on Amazon). It hooks up to your aux input and you transmit your music to it via bluetooth. The only downside is that you wouldn't get track information like you would with connecting directly to your stereo via bluetooth.

On a side note, I do have the Belkin Bluetooth Music Receiver (currently $20.09 on Amazon). It's the same concept but for home use. I have it hooked up to one of the inputs on my receiver, and any of my bluetooth-enabled devices (HTC One, iPhone, MacBook Air) can connect to it. It's super convenient!

All of the aftermarket Android units have junk audio quality and as of late there still isn't a fix for it. I use the tunai firefly bluetooth adapter and my phone connects immediately without having to do anything but press play. It's not car play or anything but certainly better than having to connect each time.

I have recently bought this and it works perfectly.
Also, if you are in the US, use this website to find the best station in your area
http://elecurls.tripod.com/fm-free.htm

Actually I have a Bluetooth cassette adapter that's super cool. People get amazed when they see it.

EDIT: link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OsvXBb4J008NP