I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:

Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:

Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon also.

Last January (Jan 2017 I think, but might have been 2016) I installed a Grom Audio "Mazda 02-08 USB Android iPod iPhone Bluetooth AUX car kit" - Model# MAZU3 device.

I also purchased and installed the Bluetooth dongle & Aux-In/USB Charging adapter cable.

Installation required me to remove the OEM stereo and make a minor modification to it (hardest part of that was actually opening the cage of the stereo itself, in order to get to the circuit board).

Then the Grom device plugs in to the socket on the back of the OEM stereo that would be used by the optional factory CD changer.

The Grom 'impersonates' the CD changer, so the stereo thinks it is playing a CD from the CD changer when you are listening to the Grom

PROS:

• Finally I have satisfactory Bluetooth hands-free phone capability in the car.
  
  
• I can wirelessly stream music (from any source) from my phone to the car stereo. I primarily use this for SiriusXM, but can also listen to music stored on the phone, or Spotify/Pandora/iHeartRadio, whatever.
  
  
• I've paired Windows Phones and an iPhone 7+ to the car, with no problems. I assume an Android phone would work equally well but haven't tried one myself.
  
  
• When I originally installed the Grom unit I loaded up a pretty large USB stick with music. LOTS of albums, lots of songs. I believe I stuck to Grom's documented requirements regarding directory structures and filenames. I can listen to the music from the USB.
  
  
• I've never actually used the Aux-In, but it exists and I assume it will work just fine.
  
  CONS:
  
• Due to the design of the system and how it interfaces to the car stereo there is no audible indication you are receiving a phone call if you aren't already listening to the Grom. I.e., if you're listening to a CD or the radio then you will only know you're receiving a phone call if you see the phone display that there is an incoming call. On my phone, at least, if the phone is in the car and paired to the Grom than the phone won't ring audibly (because it is ringing via the Grom), and so if you aren't listening to the Grom you don't know a call is coming in.
  
  
• No display other than the car's factory LED strip above the HVAC vents. So you can't see who is calling you other than by looking at your phone screen. You can't see any text description of whatever music is being played.
  
  
• Navigating the file structure of the USB stick is inconsistent & unpredictable. I've given up trying to figure it out, and just concluded that since I like all of the music I loaded on the stick (after all, if I didn't like it I wouldn't own it or have put it on the stick) I just listen to the music as it plays and don't worry about it too much. It makes it impossible to go find a particular song though.
  
  
• Occasionally the full system (phone - car stereo - Grom, don't know or care where to assign the blame) will effectively get confused and either I'll hear music coming from the USB stick and my phone, or the system won't be able to play a physical CD, or the system won't switch from the USB to the phone. When this happens the only solution is to force a reset by turning the car off and then restarting the car. This only happens rarely, but it does happen.
  
  **
  **
  I think Grom should:
  
  

• not charge extra for the additional cables/dongles I used. They add up, and feel like a lot of nickel-and-diming to get the full capabilities of the system.
  
  
• provide (and for this I'd accept it being an optional, extra cost upgrade) a small display that could be plugged in to the Grom unit, with a pass-through for the currently existing wires, that would be used to display song or incoming call information. I'd think this is something that could be done easily using something like a Raspberry Pi, but I'm not a software dev, don't know anything about writing device drivers, and wouldn't know how to fabricate the hardware necessary to plug in to the existing hardware plugs. But conceptually it seems reasonable, and it seems to me that Grom already has the engineers that would know how to do this. I wish it existed.
  
  ==============
  ==============
  
  
  Within the last week I learned of two competing products that I am seriously considering for another car I own.
  
  

1. the iSimple BluHF.
   https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521602988&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+bluetooth&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
   
   This is a similar product to the Grom, but instead of plugging in to the CD port of the stereo and impersonating the CD changer it uses the FM antenna port and sends its output through the stereo's FM receiver. To use it you switch your radio to a predetermined FM frequency.
   
   I suspect this would be more reliable than Grom's method, at least with the 2004 Mazda stereo.
   
   
   
2. The Parrot MKI 9200.
   https://www.amazon.com/Parrot-MKi9200-Advanced-Bluetooth-Hands-Free/dp/B001IA3SZ0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=1996%7C1996&ie=UTF8&n=1077068&s=car&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
   
   I like the Parrot unit a lot. It looks like it would be great, and I'm willing to shell out the $$$ for it. It actually inserts itself between the stereo and the speaker wires themselves, so it will work regardless of what source you're listening to - doesn't matter if you're listening to the radio, a CD, etc...
   
   My concern with the Parrot though is that I see many reviews that state it worked great for 6 months - 2 years, and then crapped out, and the company provided horrible service when that occurred. So I'm reluctant to get one of these.
   
   Hope the above helps you decide what you do going forward.
   
   

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.
   
   
2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.
   
   This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.
   
   This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.
   
   Good luck!

A cassette aux adapter is probably the simplest.

Next would be a battery or cigarette outlet powered FM transmitter.

Next would be a hard wired FM transmitter. They also exist in Bluetooth flavors. The quality is absolutely better than the previous FM transmitter but they still aren’t the best and require you to be on a FM station to use.

Next would be vehicle specific interface like this or one from USAspec or gromaudio. They work by tricking the factory radio into thinking a factory CD changer or SAT radio is connected. They can be as basic as a AUX input but also come in limited USB flavors as well as Bluetooth streaming and / or hands free flavors. They don’t always work the way you’d expect and can be clunky to use.

And finally would be an aftermarket replacement radio. Arguably the most expensive solution depending on the radio choice but has the potential to be the best solution with seamless functionality as well as increased functionally.

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

Good choice, best colour too! Wish they did the NC2 in green...

1. Mine have never come loose, they'll probably be fine now you've tightened them. Mine clicked a bit, but not because they were loose. I put some grease in the slot and it sorted it.
   
   
2. I've never really checked! I'd imagine they should do something, right? I'll have a look at some point, but I guess check the fuses?
   
   
3. If it's the non-Bose stereo I believe you can wire something like this in (double check compatibility first, I haven't done the proper research). If it's a Bose stereo I don't know, they've a reputation of being a pain to work with.
   
   
4. They redesigned the stereo for 2009 up models, fascia etc is different so it certainly wouldn't be a totally straightforward upgrade. Has aux in as standard, which is nice. Not sure about the rest.
   
   Other than that, if she gets fed up with the absence of variable intermittent wiper speed, then get an old wiper stalk from an RX8 on eBay and replace it, it's a 5 minute job and it makes life a lot more pleasant if you drive a lot in rain. 6 speed can be a bit notchy in 1st/2nd when it's cold, upgraded gearbox oil will fix that. Other than that just make sure the alignment's good, makes a big difference. It's a pretty bombproof car, she should have lots of hassle free driving ahead!

I don't usually recommend PowerBass because they're a budget brand, but you have a budget and that's exactly what budget brands are perfect for - these will be pretty good for the money . May as well get the matching coaxials to round out your other pair.

this is an excellent 4-channel amp - and it has balanced inputs & signal sensing auto-engage so you don't need that line out converter thing. Even has a summed line out to drive your future subwoofer.

Then of course, an amp kit for power ... that gets you in under bucks with fairly good equipment.

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

I have a Rexing V1 and I am happy with it. I think I’ve had it for a year and a half now and it’s been working fine. Video quality is in line for its price range. I live in a hot part of the country and it’s held up. I imagine the rear camera version is just as good.

If you aren’t happy with it, you can always return it. But IMO it’s a good bang for the buck camera.


Also, I would recommend to get the Rexing hardwire kit with it. Super easy to instal and hides your wires. Let me know if you have any question on wiring it into your fuse box.

The cheaper ones (in the $40 - $150 range) work okay, but they do throw a lot of false positives from my experience. I personally recommend the Escorts, but they can be very pricey ($300+).

I currently have an Escort Solo S3 which is arguably the best cordless radar detector available on the market today. Picks up radar pretty damn well, but due to it's design, it has decreased sensitivity to conserve battery life, less than the infamous Escort Passport 8500 series. Escort also has the Passport 9500ix model that can automatically detect and lock out false positives, and remembers them through the magical trickery of GPS. But, it will run you out about 600 bucks.

Just take note that while most good radar detectors will give you a pretty good advanced warning on regular radar, they will NOT protect you on laser or LIDAR. If you are hit with LIDAR, you're fucked. Although it's not impossible, it is just simply very difficult to pick up LIDAR, being a single beam of light that doesn't bounce off of objects compared to radar.

EDIT: grammar

The camera is an alright camera, but the price is way too high for what you seem like you need.

Will you set up the speed camera alerts through your wifes phone? Does she speed?

If you're only looking for video as the main feature, save yourself the $$ and get one of these Rexings. You can go even cheaper with this Aukey, which has good quality video and it is discrete.

Also, you can easily hardwire it into your wife's car using a kit like this,

>It's not mine yet!

Haha well it sounds like it's a done deal from your other comments in the post! Get excited, it's your Corvette :)

>Yeah I'll definitely be getting one. Any recommendations?

I run this Escort Passport model, though I bought it a year or two ago when it was on Amazon Prime. I picked it because it uses the same sensor from the Escort Redline (this model) which used to be the top of the Escort product line, so my detector has essentially the same range and detection capabilities and just misses out on some features like adaptive false-alarm avoidance. Didn't seem like the extra features were worth an extra $300 (though my detector has probably paid for itself many times over by now!) I would stick with Escort or Valentine personally but I hear Uniden is getting better. You can check this forum out for lots of info on the current market and what the best deals are.

The only way you'll get it to auto on/off is if you hardwire it in. Which is super easy.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6rIPBbHPMWDWA

Is what I used. It's good little camera for the price. The quality is pretty good for watching on your phone..but I found it you try to take the video on to the computer it gets worse.

Just made me chuckle when I saw the little gray box while looking your truck over. Very nice man.

Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.


[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)


[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)

The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.

One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.

I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.

Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

I felt the same way but I ended up buying this and it's actually pretty great:
FM Transmitter, Otium Bluetooth Wireless Radio Adapter Audio Receiver Stereo Music Tuner Modulator Car Kit with USB Charger, Hands Free Calling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_h1CJJygHqKNks

IF you have an iPhone:

You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).

I only have experience with the Tune2Air. It will provide very limited control of Spotify/Pandora. You can pause, fast forward, and rewind, but you can't change tracks (next or previous). It will show track information, but only if you hit the "info" button on the MMI. I've been happy, but wish I could do next/previous tracks. Certainly not a deal breaker. But it does provide full control of your local library on your iPhone, just like a normal iPod is connected.

Haven't gotten my Rav4 yet, but have cleanly installed dash cams and rear reverse cameras on half a dozen cars already.

For a clean install, [get a wiring kit like this.] (https://www.amazon.com/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=fuse+box+usb&qid=1569253472&s=gateway&sr=8-8)

Run the USB line properly above the edge of the headliner to position the dash cam, run the line down the A-pilar trim, and route into the drivers side footwell, hiding the wire from sight. You will need to pull the fuse for cigarette lighters in the fuse box located in the driverside footwell, typically a yellow 20 amp, see diagram on the lid. Then you plug this in its place and add a fuse into the provided slot to keep all the cigarette lighters functional. That will provide you with the (+) line and just loosen a nut or bolt that's attached to anything metal in the foot well and wrap the black wire with the end stripped, around the bolt and tighten it in place, that should provide it with (-) to complete the circuit.

Zip tie up the loose wires and use larger zip ties to keep all the parts in place. Enjoy your clean installation. If that's too difficult, get a ~10ft USB cable that matches your dash cam's and run it under the headliner, A-pillar and run it though the trim and route around as best as you can to the nearest cigarette lighter with adapter or USB port and plug it. This method might work better running down the passengers side, but is the uglier messier method.

Buy some real 14 AWG silicone jacket wire, (this is what I'm using) and a set of quality XT60 connectors like these.

Ideally you want crimped ring terminals for all power leads that connect to screw terminals, putting bare wire into them isn't how they're meant to be used.

The 14 AWG has enough area so you can solder them to both positive and negative pads on the heatbed respectively, and terminate those with 1 XT60 connector. A word of advice - dismount your heatbed, flip it upside down and put it on something that can take some heat for a bit like corkboard. Heat it up to 60-80C, turn it off, then remove the stock connector and solder the wires. Otherwise you'll get nowhere trying to solder to a room temp heatsink.

The matching XT60 connector uses the same 14AWG to crimped ring terminals, going to the MOSFET board. For reference, here's one I'm using on my printer.

I only removed the power pins from my bed, I pre-cut the connector so I could leave the middle pins and connector shell for the temp sensor attached to the bed, then I could still use that to disconnect those wires. Works great because the little retaining mechanism is in the middle of the connector over the sensor wires.

Pre-tin the XT60 wire cups and the wire itself before you try to solder them together unless you've got both a beefy soldering iron and good soldering skills, otherwise your connector will end up with a faulty solder connection.

Now it's easy to disconnect the heatbed.

Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...

Electronics:

• Receiver - $140, has 10 band EQ, full crossover setup, and time alignment capabilities
  
• 5 channel amp - $230 - has crossover settings to allow setup of active front stage
  
  Speakers:
  
  There are 2 directions you can go here, active front stage, or passive with rear fill. I'm going to give you an active front stage setup with no rear speakers. Door drivers for this car are difficult due to the shallow mounting depth so I stuck with speakers that are less than 2.5" deep
  
  
• 5.25" woofers - $150
  
• 1" tweeters - $150
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• 12" Subwoofer - $160
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• Dash Kit - $13
  
• Wire Harness - $7
  
• Front speaker adapter - $10
  
• 4x8 sheet MDF. screws, glue, etc. from hardware store for building sub enclosuse: $74
  
• Speaker terminal kit for sub box - $6
  
• Amp wiring kit - $60
  
• 16 gauge speaker wire - $20 (need more for active front stage run)
  
• 12 gauge speaker wire - $20 (for your subwoofer)
  
• Sound deadending kit 40 sq ft - $100
  
• Other random install accessories, tools, and little gotcha stuff: $60
  
  Grand total: $1,200

I'm looking at a Escort Passport 8500x50 black It has a lot of good reviews and supports a lot of bands, should I save up for the escort max or consider this one? From what I can tell it's a reputable company, pretty updated in terms of technology and has good range. Would this be considered a cheap radar?

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ


KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

All a shielded cable is is effectively foil or another dielectric wrapped around the cord. It's pretty cheap, so as long as you buy one from a reputable dealer the chances are you're getting the real deal.

Another thing that could be tried is attaching a ferrite core to the cable. They soak up any RFI and EMI noise being inducted on the cable to a certain extent. Not a substitute for shielding, but they can help in some cases.

I have had a very similar issue before with some microphones when being fed plug-in or phantom power when the microphones didn't need it or at the incorrect voltage. I'd imagine that the G7 is putting plug-in power out the microphone input. Some cameras do let you disable that in the settings menu so worth a try if you can.

It could just be the G7 itself with internal noise issues. I havn't heard anyone complain that the G7 has such issues though, so that would be a first for me, though that sort of 'digital noise' is very common in complicated devices like PC sound cards where there's a lot of activity on the board around the preamps.

Not sure if the G7 has either of these, but if the camera does have wi-fi or bluetooth make sure those are switched off too.

If you stick with the 8" (and get a good one with some nice power behind it) I personally think an 8" would do just fine.

I went through amazon, and found everything I used:

• Sub
  
  
• Amp
  
  
• Wiring Kit
  
  
• Grille
  
  
• Box Felt
  
  Like I've said elsewhere, I wish I would have taken a picture of the box I built. It wasn't vented, and was about ~25% too small, but it still sounds great.
  
  Edit: It was roughly this shape: Not to scale

I actually have everything you just mentioned, haha. I bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YSVwzb2RM8ZP6) because it's cheep and because of the location I have it in, it's easy to replace if needed. The mirror may not be the best place, but it was definitely an easy install. Thanks for your advice.

Yeah, I wouldn't let tech influence your decision too much, OP.

Bluetooth is super easy to add after the fact. I installed one of these in my Acura after the BT module died. It's unobtrusive, handles calls like a champ, streams music/podcasts flawlessly, and even interfaces with the "OK Google" voice commands on my Android smartphone. Oh, and it was $25.

As for keyless entry, yeah it's nice but it's the kind of feature I care about on my wife's minivan. For a hot hatch like the Mini, base your selection on the essentials of the driving experience.

I use an adapter called Tune2Air and it plugs right in to the AMI. It works great for me with both android and iPhone (with wifi off). The track info shows on the dash and skip buttons work even with Google Play Music on my iPhone. It works more reliably than a Lightning cable, and the occasional hiccup can be solved by reconnecting.

I got it in amazon, it was under $65.
Here: ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/

I can pretty much guarantee that a normal USB dongle wouldn't work at all.

I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?

A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.

Am I better off just getting something like this?

Oh, what a drag! You can't put a new head unit in because of the combined climate controls? Lame, Subaru. Lame. There's no headphone jack cleverly hidden somewhere?

It's been a really long time since I used an FM transmitter (used to use one for a portable CD player. Yes, I'm old), but in my experience they were okay, as long as you found a nice, empty channel. It was a pain when traveling and your previously empty channel would suddenly be Hot Hits 97.5 or whatever and you had to mess around and find another one. Now again, I'm showing my age, because the one I had back in the day used analog wheels to tune and it had a gross one and a fine one. These days they're all digital. I found this guy on Amazon. It's listed as their best seller and it seems pretty inexpensive to at least try out.

Good luck getting your tunes sorted out!

You're looking for the suspension package. It included bilsteins and LSD. It was available as an option on any trim, but when I was shopping it seemed more popular on the loaded GT trim.

I think only the 2009- years have aux, but it's very easy to add to the 2006-2008. You can use this

I bought one of these for my 2013 Mini


Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for BMW and Mini Coopers - Android and iPhone Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000B USB / AUX connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tCqLDbMJ3M4XC

The steering wheel controls and title text display are pretty buggy, but the audio always works!

If you find something better I’d love to know about it.

My car only has aux as well. I still have a headphone jack but I wanted something automatic. I bought this mpow bt reciever and it works great. It auto pairs when you turn on the car (some need a button push). Also when it is paired I have it set to stay unlocked and go into android auto. Pretty slick!

If you get one, also get the TAP adapter, and the Hardwire kit. They're pretty cheap.

Using this, I ran the hardwire kit up behind the rear view mirror, behind the headliner, down the plastic on the A pillar, and back behind the kickpanel and into the fuse box with the TAP adapter. I can't remember which fuse I used without looking but it's wired into one where the camera automatically comes on whenever the accessory is active or the truck is running. When I turn off the truck, the camera turns off, automatically. I don't have to do anything except clear off the saved videos once every 6 months or so.

Day old post, don't care.

I bought some Revision Desert Locust goggles off ebay for ~$30. Spent another $20 for a 25mm fan (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYNWUP4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), some 20ga wire (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT1CEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), and some on/off switches (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FH7WN2Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00).

I placed the fan to one side of the goggles (currently held in place with hot glue, but might "upgrade" to zip ties instead), ran the wires on top of the goggles (held in place with zip ties) to the on/off switch on the other side. Then ran wires to the back where I have a spare rechargeable battery held in place with velcro. Covering the battery up with the cover that came with the goggles.

That fan puts out 2.8 CFM with not a hole lot of noise, and at only 25mm, that's an astonishing amount of air!!! I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I will be this weekend. The on/off switch is to keep what little noise the fan puts out down, as with these goggles, I do not forsee needing the fan constantly on.

Hey! If you have a cassette player, you're gonna need an adapter which can be found here if not you dont need this! Make sure the measurements of the radio match up, it should fit most single/double din radios.


After that make sure to buy a wiring harness


And then get your radio!



Also this would help a bunch, be sure you have a 8mm socket ready.

I have this https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075VRXRD6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aukey+dash+cam+dr02d&qid=1555966124&s=electronics&sr=1-3


and tied it into the fuse box with this
https://www.amazon.ca/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3/136-5260954-8759003?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072J3L2JN&pd_rd_r=07df55ef-6540-11e9-94bd-393e388bbf8d&pd_rd_w=oatjH&pd_rd_wg=05PLf&pf_rd_p=88f05819-6e09-4eaf-970e-fd581a2a2708&pf_rd_r=C8SC7MFT36MYWHRH58M6&psc=1&refRID=C8SC7MFT36MYWHRH58M6

​

Looks great as its design is more flush with the windshield. I have it mounted just to the left of the rear-mirror mount and it still leaves room for the mirror to angle for the driver. Very easy to install and the wires fit into the mouldings just fine.


Have a look at the quality it produces from one of my vids here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRKKvaS7RmM
It has a refresh rate faster than my LEDs (which is why my LEDs are flickering in the reflection).

If you're interested, here's the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I lied, it's closer to 10 bucks actually. But a few key things about it is that it has no battery and needs to be plugged into a USB port to run. Whether that be a computer or cheap wall charger doesn't matter.

On the plus side, because it has no battery, it's always on and doesn't have power-off power saving features. This is nice so you can stick it in an awkward place behind a stereo system out of sight and not have to worry about turning it on again after x amount of time of inactivity.

Edit: it says iPhone/iPad and stuff, but it should work fine with anything that does Bluetooth audio. Like I said it works great for me with my tablet, a Nexus 7.

Yea you can skip songs, play/pause, and control volume from steering wheel and dash buttons.

If you already have the media cable then this (or something like it) is what you need

Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rer0Bb6WP6BTA


If you don’t have the media cable, something like this will probably be better since the cable is like $150 from the dealership (if I remember correctly)

Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uir0BbQ4F6KBT


Before you buy anything make sure you have the media port. Mine was located in the glove compartment on the left side.

Great advice. I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado that had an "Aux" setting. I had something similar to the Scosche installed in my truck, with an aux plug that I could use. Google your make and model of car and "Aux" and you should be able to find the right thing to order. I had mine installed by the Stereo Man http://ncstereoman.com/info/category/home/.

Also, if you get that installed, I recommend this for plugging into your aux and being able to have bluetooth. Works great in my truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

That's a good question. How do I check which profile is being using for my car? Can I change the profile?

​

What baffles me is all functions of the phone (calls, podcasts, MP3s) work perfectly with my Jeep - just

not voicemail playback.

​

I didn't mention this, but I've used a MPOW Bluetooth receiver (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TD6D72/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the last year and it works fine with the phone and the car speakers (via the AUX port).

​

Thanks

Well, I'll update my own thread.

The best rated cord I could find on Amazon was this one, liked it because it was the higest rated cable of its type.

Head over to the car audio place, they said it would be $75 to replace the cable. After they tear out the current set up, found out that I had an original iPod interface box behind my stereo. Kinda looks like this

Downside is the 30-pin cable is a din interface, and not a USB like I thought. So either I could order the right cable and wait a week or have something else installed.

Ended up getting the Tranzit Blue HF kit installed for $200 total. Phone connects to the box via Bluetooth and then the box transmits on an FM station you select through the app. They also installed a button and a mike on the dash to control the app. If you have the transmitter on it drowns out most other FM stations, so a 4-second hold on the button will turn it on so I can stream from my phone or turn off to listen to AM/FM. The kit also auto-connects to my phone and Siri works great with it.

The last option would be to have an aftermarket stereo installed that has a bluetooth connection, but also a USB interface and an AUX interface. The downside here is the steering wheel controls wouldn't be operational with them and would require yet another aftermarket kit to have the volume/channel up/down buttons work. That cost was around $450.

So mildly more than what I wanted to pay, but it's been working well since I've gotten it. Nice to be able to listen to music/podcasts without a distracting hiss.

No offence but if you don't understand the wiring diagram maybe you should get someone to do it for you?

If you're determined to do it yourself maybe you just need a wiring harness kit like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-NN03B-Harness-1995-07-Standard/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494895498&sr=8-2&keywords=nissan+350z+wiring+harness

It all depends on your setup. I don't know what plugs Joying comes with and whether or not you have a bose system in your car etc.

If you're spending that much for a brake bleed kit, get an electric vacuum pump for ease. under $50 USD

vacuum pump

12v adapter

wires

I threw this together with the first 12v adapter I could find on amazon. If you want the run to pump better with more vacuum, get an adapter that pushes more than 2 amps. I have a 5 amp adapter and the pump runs like a top.

That's good, at least.

Think you could get away with looping each ear's cable round a ferrite ring a couple of times and showing her something like this, with some pretty graphs showing how they can reduce EMF, and hope she misses the fact the EMF is generated in the buds themselves?

Work? Yes, but it's low quality components and wire. You'd be better off getting a kit from Knukonceptz. 8ga CCA wire. 8ga OFC wire. Though, with how low power the amp is, you'd be perfectly fine with 10ga OFC power and ground.

CCA wire will get you by but OFC is really the way to go.

First of all, more PICTURES!


So I saw a couple of other posts and got inspired. Mainly this one and this one.


I used wire and LEDs from amazon. 3 LEDs on each side.


And visor plugs and screws from ebay.


I wired the lights up to the switch as shown in the 2 other posts, which was really easy to do.


Then I wired the lights up through the trim.


I drilled holes in the plugs to fit the lights and put it all back together.


The pictures show some before and after, but I didn't have any pictures from night. The difference is huge, I can actually see in my car at night.

I have this and it works great.
It lives in the center console (plugged into the usb port there), aux cable snaked under console to front aux port. I never have to touch it. Cumbersome is not a term I would use to describe this setup. I would say invisible, functional, or nearly as good as a factory bluetooth head unit. Certainly not cumbersome.

I have a 2011 535i. I'm very happy with ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter, you can connect your iPhone via bluetooth and still see track information on iDrive. All other functions (receive calls/skip tracks, etc) work perfectly as well.
For me now it's almost as my bluetooth connection was native to the car and I forget I'm using an adapter.

You can get these at local stores for acoustics and electronic stores like RadioShack.

I guess you are from the US since you didn't mention another country - so, here is a Amazon.com link to some.

Newegg also has them.

If you are infact from Europe, visit http://gh.de/ .

Hope this helps! And keep on using Mumble! :)

I got an "Escort Passport 8500X50" and honestly, it's pretty useless in south FL. 90%+ of the time it's a false alarm. On top of that, FLHP uses laser guns.

I get much better results with Waze.

If you really want to be "immune" to laser guns, you need a jammer like this. Just make sure it's legal in your state, here's a map.

If you're sure that the 30-pin adapter is working properly, try this one rather than plugging your phone to the insanely short cable in the glove box.
https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465825302&sr=8-4&keywords=audi+mmi+cable

It looks like a good solution to me.

Yea i had a similar issue. I have an amazing integrated sound system so can change it out. I ended up getting this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRU5UNA

Works great. But totally understand you waiting for a proper setup

You can get a chinese radio for $30 but if you plan to keep using your car for some time it would be better to go up one notch and put something like the Pioneer FH-X720BT, i know CDs are in extinction but for a little price difference you still have the option.
You need to get the mounting kit, and the wiring harness. Installing it is not that hard, if you can splice some wires you're set, the wires in the radio harness and in the adapter are color coded so you just need to match them.

Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.

Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.

>neither Visions nor Geek Squad (best buy) know how to install an aux input.

Either you asked the wrong questions or didn't listen to them correctly. You can either add something like the IS32 but at that point you're better off just getting a new radio like this one.

No bluetooth audio. It does have bluetooth connectivity for gamepads, keyboards, and mice, but not audio.

​

If you absolutely need to force audio to bluetooth--which makes sense for this sort of accessibility scenario--you could get something like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX

​

HOWEVER, you will also likely experience first hand why they don't directly support bluetooth. There will be a decent chance the audio you get will not be synchronized to what's happening on screen.

This is the one I use and it works great in my 2008 e90 335 w/iDrive. Just plug the USB and AUX in the jacks inside the center console and you're good to go. They also have a couple of different versions incase you already have the 30-pin ipad adapter or using another type of european car (Audi, etc..). It's been rock solid for me and has never given me an issue. Probably the first bluetooth device that hasn't given me at least one problem. lol

This really is the best solution but everyone has different needs. The sound quality is fantastic and my sub still carries bass with it.

Mpow Bluetooth 4.1 Receiver with Built-in Noise Isolator, Hands-Free Car Kits & Bluetooth Aux Car Adapter with Dual USB Car Charger & 3M Magnetic Mounting Base for Car Audio System (G-3 for MBR2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TD6D72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XpEWBbBMKD04J

so i'm looking at buying these bulbs, these connectors and this wire. altogether it'll be around $20, but i'll only need some of this stuff for each.

i'm trying to decide if it is worth buying the extra connectors and wire or if i should just buy this pair of connectors with wire already soldered on and the bulbs and save myself $10.

I purchased a Bluetooth FM transmitter for my car awhile back and it's usable. I'm not an audiophile, and if you're not too concerned about audio quality it's pretty nice. My father had borrowed my car for two weeks awhile back and really liked it, considering what it was. After the first week I mentioned it sort of cuts out some of the highs and lows and he was then able to notice it. Audiobooks and podcasts on he other hand sound just fine.

I added an aux port to my 2006 not too long ago. A ground loop isolator is a must otherwise you'll get a lot of background noise during acceleration and when you charge your device.

I got these parts:

Goliton aux cable for Mazda

3.5mm feed-thru panel mount jack

ground loop isolator

The combination works perfectly. I drilled a hole in the center between the cigarette lighter and the passenger airbag light. There is plenty of space behind it and the part is pretty cheap (less than $20) to buy used on ebay if I must return the car to stock configuration.

You can get a bluetooth receiver with an aux cord - I'd recommend just getting one that will plug into an available USB so that you don't need to repeatedly charge it. Once your phone is paired, it will automatically pair with your phone every time you turn the car on.

Something like this Kinivo ($35) or this MPOW ($24) would fulfill that purpose.

Does this budget include an amp? How about the enclosure?

If you're trying to do all of this for $150 (NEW) then something like this RF powered, loaded enclosure would probably be the best you can do. Wiring will be extra.

How are your power cords arranged? Is there anything overlapping? Sounds like some sort of interference. Not other turntables to test with?

Before sending it back for another out of warranty repair, you may want to try a ferrite ring or two. Amazon has them pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RAZTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d0TYzbRYCKEEJ

I'm not personally familiar with the b8 series infotainment and what all it can control on the car, if it has a lot built in that isn't related specifically to the sound system then you likely won't be able to upgrade it. If it doesn't you can get replacements that support all of what you asked for. If it does a potentially easier option is to just get a bluetooth aux adapter:

https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Isolator-Hands-Free/dp/B078TD6D72/

and then there are lots of aftermarket less elegant but much cheaper backup camera options like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pruveeo-D700-7-Inch-Channel-Reversing/dp/B073WFJ7HV/

I'd recommend something like this adapter (link) just to be safe

Something like this? When you say aux cord, do you mean 3.5mm audio jack? Or something else? If you're not sure, a picture would help as well.

I have this one

And used this install kit

It's cheap, has an integrated amp, has it's own enclosure, and kicks hard (get lots of compliments, even at 1/3 power).

Additionally, I like the fact I can remove it fairly easily by using disconnects on my wires. I have a hatch, so whenever I need the space I can get it out in 20 seconds.

I purchased this and it works great. The device auto turns on/connects. You can also play, pause, and skip songs using the buttons.

I'm not sure where to get a usb c to female aux but I use this and it's great

Anker Soundsync Bluetooth Receiver for Music Streaming with Bluetooth 5.0, 12-Hour Battery Life, Handsfree Calls, Dual Device Connection, for Car, Home Stereo, Headphones, Speakers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9P0NDb3YX7W09

For those of us without Bluetooth stereo and want a clean solution. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535986815&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tranzit+blu&dpPl=1&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&ref=plSrch



I bought an FM/Bluetooth modulator that connects to the antenna port on the back of your head unit. You can turn it on (FM turns off so no static, but no FM stations) or you can leave it off (Use FM like normal). Comes with a button that functions as a skip track, answer/decline calls, activitate voice assistant, and a microphone. Highly recommend that thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the one I have and it works great. Long-press track forward for assistant. It goes on and off with the car if your cigarette lighter plug goes on an off with the car. Mine does in my toyota but every car I've ever had before this they all stayed on.

It's simple for a guest to connect to also, just turn bt off on your phone and the puck automatically goes to pairing mode, guest connects/plays music, have them do a forget device when they're done and once you turn your bt back on you're connected.

This one and the one /u/neongasoline linked (I was about to buy that one, but liked the buttons facing front on mine better) both come with a ground loop isolator, I will make my opinion known that one of those is very necessary if you don't want the hum you get like you do with a phone plugged into aux that is also charging via car-power.

If your car has an aux jack, I recommend something like this - basically adds Bluetooth functionality to your car so you can both play music from your phone and talk on speakerphone

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TD6D72/

I bought a cheap USB powered bluetooth receiver that I plug into my stereo. Sounds great. My only complaint is that when the Vita is connected to the bluetooth stick it disables the volume buttons and sends a fixed signal, so I have to control the volume on my stereo.

http://amzn.com/B00ANDHBNS

Edit: I know there are also iPod 30-pin bluetooth adapters out there as well, but I haven't settled on one to try yet. Would be good for repurposing some old iPod docks.

This one, but I'd imagine they're all pretty similar. Kinivo is another good brand.

You'll mostly likely need a ground loop isolator in the car to prevent that whining noise caused by the cars electrical system. The one I linked comes with one.

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-USA-PH-62050-MD-To-Cassette-Adapter/dp/B0007R4LI8/

I have tried multiple cassette adapters and this one sounded the best to me. I pair it with this to create a bluetooth setup for my 1999 toyota. works well : http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/

gets both left and right channels of sound

You can get any dash cam and use this kit to hook it up to your battery so it turns on and off with your car. Bellow is my combo and I love it.

Dash Cam:

https://www.amazon.ca/Ampulla-2560x1080-Detection-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B06XHGTKNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540396497&sr=1-1&keywords=Ampulla+Pluto+Dash

Add a circuit:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072J3L2JN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To my knowledge, most of them are almost the same length so they can mount with the dash kit. And since you're on crutchfield, it says it comes with the installation gear which I hope is everything. If not, the harness is this if you don't have Bose, and the dash kit. It's pretty simple to wire the harness to the existing wires. They're all color coded and some you won't need.

I’ve got this Bluetooth adapter in my 2011 Q5! I love it! It allows the MMI to still control the music and works seamlessly!

[](Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dAJ8BbFR4MGY7)

You probably need some 2 conductor wire and a soldering iron. I would use a pretty thin gauge (high number) since the MQ172-3SA-CV(30) connector looks like it has really small tabs to connect to. If the insulation is too thick, you can try to trim the outside with an xacto knife. Of course, you want to keep insulation between the 2 conductors.

For example, 20 awg 2 conductor hookup wire. You can probably also find it at your local auto parts or hardware store.

I have a Roav C1, and it's fine but I only spent $50

If I did it over again, I'd spend a little more and get one with a capacitor instead of battery (better for high and low temps), make sure it had a rear facing camera, and could be hardwired to the fuse box. There's several of these on Amazon for under $200 these days.

Edit: something like this

Rexing V1P Pro Dual 1080p Full HD Front and Rear 170 Degree Wide Angle Wi-Fi Car Dash Cam with Built-in GPS Logger, Supercapacitor, 2.4" LCD Screen, G-Sensor, Loop Recording, Mobile App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4B75YL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P.wtDbZDH7HB4

Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit for V1, V1P, V1 3rd Gen Dash Cams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KaxtDb3WX0CJK

It's not hard at all. Just grab a two colored wiring harness and I believe the ring's plug harness has both a white and white grey stripe. Cut about 4" from the plug and from the base station input Match it up to your new two colored harness and away you go. Super simple! Something like this below>>>>>>>
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-Hardwire-Replacement-22-Gauge-Parallel/dp/B001JT1CEE

pretty sure I got this one https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551117789&sr=8-4&keywords=xt60

​

​

I bought this for my Honda Accord:

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426779745&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+tranzit

It works very well, in my opinion. It's an FM modulated aux input, but it's all hardwired so even though it's technically using radio and transmit it doesn't sound like it. Plus you have multiple mounting options. You can either use their bracket/enclosure, or you can drill holes and mount them wherever you want to make a custom look. Install was very easy, the hardest part I had was trying to figure out which wire to use as a power source. It also gives you a USB plug to plug your device into for charging.

I feel your pain with the 2009 nav unit, you are right that installing another din will leave it blank along with limited options for all the other stuff that is displayed, error messages, trip computer etc. after a lot of research, found it is easier to leave it in.

I don't have one, but for stearing wheel controls everyone seems to like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493424282&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+cooper+bluetooth+adapter]

on my newer r56 without nav, I gave up on steering wheel controls use the phone mounted to the cd slot via (magnet)[https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Mount-Aluminum-Silicone-Universal/dp/B01D4VG7BW/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1493424706&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=magnet+phone+holder&psc=1] and a cheaper bluetooth aux with microphone. call quality seems to be better, and as it is a lot quicker for most tasks than the brake / idrive controls, even the steering wheel can't change aps and songs as quick with phone mounted right on the cd player slot.

I found something pretty inexpensive like this? BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2mpcvb0C9ZYR2

I use multiple YI Dashcams hardwired using this: https://www.amazon.com/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535916653&sr=8-3&keywords=dash+cam+hardwire+kit

​

Also, for the memory cards, make sure you get the "high endurance" kind. I use 2x128gb SD Cards... records for about 3 days.

​

I also have a cheap UBB distro that has switches coming from the "hardwire kit" that lets me turn off cams in case I'm in a safe spot or I'm backed against a wall, etc.

I installed one of these and it works great for me. It basically plugs inline into the antenna and broadcasts directly to the antenna. Then you tube your radio to that station. I've never had a problem with it. Plus it adds a charging port in the car.

I've got an iOttie car mount and the Besign BK01 Bluetooth adapter, it turns on with my car and turns off, works like a charm!

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Equalizer:26$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

2 speakers: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Amp: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Wiring: 16$


Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415821693&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+bluetooth+audio

http://www.amazon.com/OPSO-Charger-Portable-Vehicle-Adapter/dp/B009O4BXGS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1415821750&sr=8-13&keywords=car+usb

I use this in my civic and it works great.

I wouldn't put that much money and time into it for a year. I would just get one of these especially since you won't get the money back when you sell it, but if you must $500 is doable go to crutchfeild.com put your car model in and it will give you everything you need head unit amp speakers etc. You may pay more then say amazon but you will get life time support setting it up, issue etc.

If you have an auxiliary port, get one of these

I have it in both my cars (which don't have Bluetooth). Sound quality is awesome and the noise cancelling works. The mic/control sticks to wherever you want with a little magnet. You can pull it off and hold it up to your mouth for those situations where it's loud. I've had quick conversations on the highway with the top down on my convertible and people say they can't tell I'm in the car.

I bought this ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter to stream music as mine lacked Bluetooth streaming. You can stream Spotify or iTunes and works really great.

Ok thank you so much! Is it these that have been linked from that website?

https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=sxts_k2p_hero2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2668835662&pf_rd_r=S6R4R8BWK779TRY0V987&pd_rd_wg=EO22e&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=5EfKl&pf_rd_i=xt60+connectors&pd_rd_r=P19PEF82ZJTF265YT9T0&ie=UTF8&qid=1478461649&sr=2

I bought a Bluetooth radio adapter, because my 02 is too old for bluetooth, and too new for a cassette player. I've been very pleased with it. I was on the verge of buying a new stereo just for the capability, but this has kept that want at bay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZKERVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Totally worth the $15

This is gonna be the best decent setup you can buy.

• Amp
  
  
• [Wiring Kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B005IY3BI6)
  
  
• [Subs] (http://www.parts-express.com/grs-12sw-4-12-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-484)
  
  Which will still leave you with about $140 for a custom built box.
  
  There's a couple good things about this setup.The amp is made by Alpine. It will do rated power and will last awhile. And the subs are actually built somewhat well, considering the price.
  
  This setup will sound better and hit much lower than those terminators, as long as you get the right box for them. 4-5 ft^3 and tuned to 30 hz. There is a reason half your budget is going towards a proper enclosure. The box will make or break your whole system. There's many people online that will design a box for you, if you're willing to build it yourself. If not, a local shop may do it, but expect to be paying around 200 bucks.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I'm so sorry! It's a 2009 non xdrive?

So I think I can get any cable, but it had to have an adapter change the media from digital to analog?

Or I can get a y cable with a blue tooth adapter

So either this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=61122287642&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS670US670&oq=61122287642&aqs=chrome..69i57.1009j0j8&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgdii=xA4SkwZu0AQB9M%3A%3BGEJ0fzEmoH_8ZM%3A%3BGEJ0fzEmoH_8ZM%3A&imgrc=GEJ0fzEmoH_8ZM%3A

Or this:
ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter for Streaming iPod/iPhone/iPad to BMW/Mini with original AUX/USB Y-Cable Connection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iI0zybCRT7T7K

Either of those work?

FWIW I bought one of these for my truck and it works great:

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397486220&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+to+3.5

I just plug it into a USB spot and then run the 3.5 into my aux port.

>Here is usb (5V) powered bluetooth audio adapter http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS[1]


I have this or something very similar in my car. my stereo actually has a usb drive hookup and an aux in, so I just plug it into the usb input for power and then plug the aux cable into the output. works great.

This has worked great in my 09 A4
ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mzv2xbSZSRG4B

I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my R56. It has been working great for over a year now. I can use my steering wheel controls and it shows the song info on the lcd display.

I use one of these and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX/

The only video I could find of the MOSFET board installation was very long and somewhat unclear to a newbie. It looks like he mounts it under the printer rather than the control box and overall just seemed really difficult.

I just went ahead and pushed the button on my order from Amazon that includes the XT60 Connectors w/ Heat Shrink and the 6-1 Soldering Kit I would have preferred the MOSFET but in hopes of not getting over my head, it was a total of about 30$ and seems doable.

Not a trick so much as a way to get modern bluetooth audio in your "dated" 2009 BMW nav. Check out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY -- it works brilliantly if you have ipod integration already.

This one works fantastic :

https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4M365RWDH34BWRNH9FMT

I recently started using a Tune2Air and a phone mount with wireless charging that automatically grabs your phone (this one). It’s a fantastic combo. My phone connects in seconds and from there it’s exactly the same as having an iPod plugged in. Steering wheel controls even work!
It’ll run you about $130 for the two, but it’s worth every penny.

What you want to look for is a single din head unit.

Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvMHybMT2RYV9

Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness

Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_twMHybX5GZZK1

And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit

HONDA ACCORD 1998 - 2002 DASH KIT + WIRE HARNESS + RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBF71DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxMHyb1RKAN9K


Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.

This is probably caused by poor shielding. Grab something like this from Amazon (just make sure you get the right size) and that might help. No guarantee though.

Haven't tried it personally, but heard good things about this. https://www.amazon.com/Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Streaming-Connection/dp/B00R3ABHXY

This is where things get a bit weird for the Type 97. The official battery for them is wonky as fuck and requires the removal of the entire lower grip to install.

I, on the other hand, did some measuring and found these particular batteries. They fit perfectly in the grip, I'm not even kidding. Did some measurements with my calipers and these are the only batteries with the perfect proportions where you can slide the buttplate off the grip (normally reserved for the tool kit that comes with the gun) and slip it in there. However, as I'm sure you notice, you'll need to convert your gun to XT60. Not a difficult conversion, but it does require some patience, a soldering iron, and some connectors. I picked up this pack and it does me just fine

Not for $15, but for $30 I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6F31EQ/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

Thing I like about it is that it's reversible. Flip it to transmit and it makes any stereo player a bluetooth source. Flip it to receive and it makes any headphones bluetooth.

Edit: when I followed the link and saw the "others have bought" I found these two:

http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Bluetooth-Receiver-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B00ANDHBNS/ref=pd_tcs_compl_e_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SC15964SGJ9RRJGVSCE
and
http://www.amazon.com/SoundBot%C2%AE-Bluetooth-Universal-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B00F25Z0FS/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S9V0AJDST7GX10S29YE


There's a bluetooth dongle for the laptop and bluetooth receiver for the earbuds for a total of $14.

I wired this into my last Crown Vic. It worked well and it allowed me to replace the "Airbag off" light in front of the passenger into a USB port for charging. I didn't end up using their mounting plate, instead opting to dremel a small hole for the switch and another for the port into the trim surrounding my trunk release button. It takes over a radio station, you flip the switch to block out other radio signal and it's nice and clear.

>S-Video consists of two video components, luma and chroma. The checkerboard pattern you often see with poorly-built cabling is caused by the chroma component not being fully separated from the luma component and causing interference. Sounds like your thinner cable is better than your thicker one.


So is this caused by a lack of shielding or the lack of a ferrite bead?


If it's the lack of a ferrite bead, would something like this fix the problem?


> Incidentally, the yellow wire is not needed for S-Video and is frequently omitted entirely from S-Video cables. You should probably leave it disconnected.


Yeah I was wondering about that... Good to know.

I bought this kit and it works great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RXC4D-Digital-Capacitor-Voltage/dp/B019Z3RISY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Farad%2BCar%2BCapacitor&qid=1555656720&s=electronics&sr=1-1&th=1

​

and this wire kit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=amp%2Bwire%2Bkit&qid=1555657108&s=electronics&sr=1-4&th=1

​

Mine came with 2 audio cables but it's the same kit.

You might consider one of these type things:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZKERVY/

I'm not sure if it's the same brand but I have one that looks identical, plugs into the cigarette lighter for power and you can use a little cable to plug it into the aux port. Then you can either sync your phone to it via Bluetooth, or load up your fav songs onto an SD card and leave it in there (I use it both ways.) It also has usb ports for charging your phone.

I use this guy for playing movies from my laptop to get some pretty good quality sound from my home stereo. Range is only about 15 ft. reliably, but if you are on a budget, this is great. It never turns off, and is always on standby when you aren't using it. It can plug in to any USB port for power, too.

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long)

I got this for my 2006 Mazda 3 Hatch, installed in like 20 minutes. Drilled a hole into my glove-box and routed it there.

Honestly, it does the job. There is a barely discernible whine noise in the background that only comes up when heavily accelerating... likely do to the extra electricity the car puts out.

thank you! Do you think this will help btw if I can't find any ones that prevent radio static? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015RAZTIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely! I can't stop recommending a dash cam in everyone's car. Having one has saved me twice in previous cars, where it's my word against theirs in a accident. I show the police officer the video and it's case closed.

I have used a few in different vehicles and my new favorite is the [Rexing V1] (https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=lp_10517197011_1_1?srs=10517197011&ie=UTF8&qid=1484396363&sr=8-1), I love that it uses a mounting plate instead of a suction cup. The [BlackBox G1W] (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484396572&sr=8-1&keywords=blackbox+g1w+dash+cam) is half the price and uses a suction cup, smaller screen, slightly cumbersome interface, but is still a reliable cam that I still use in two other vehicles. Be sure to buy the [Hardwire Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Hard-Wire-Mini-USB-Port/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484396782&sr=8-1&keywords=rexing+hardwire) so you can hide the wire and not use a 12V outlet.

I tapped into 12V ignition power from the sunroof controls, others have used mirror power to feed cams. Also, be sure to only use a "Class 10" SD card to avoid file errors. You can use T-taps (see album link above for example) for a simple connection, I would only recommend using T-taps for very low power consuming devices, otherwise use butt splices (source: 10 year industrial power & controls technician)

[Here are a few photos of where I mounted the Rexing cam in my 2017 IS] (http://imgur.com/a/bKgOg)

If you want to be really cheap you can get one of these: Linky
I had one for a while and it worked pretty good. It did break after a while but it's so cheap that you can just get another.

I have the Tune 2 air I got for my TTS a month ago.

Everything works fine. Get in car it starts playing music. I can use soundcloud mixcloud whatever I want. It also retains my normal Bluetooth functionality for phone calls. Pauses music to answer. Once the call has hung up it takes a second or two but the music starts playing again.

https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Interface-Integration/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485344576&sr=1-1&keywords=Viseeo+Tune+2+Air

not sure what power input the ventrue has, but you could buy a hardwire kit that has battery cutoff if your battery drops to 11.6V:

https://www.amazon.com/Hardwire-MicroUSB-adapter-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527618174&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=micro+usb+hardwire+kit+with+lp+mini&psc=1

edit: looks like vantrue is mini USB. There are other hardwire kits with mini

prius doen't have bluetooth? i thought they were like the og smartcar.

i use this POS. it works fairly well, especially for the price.

mine is just like this but mine is rebranded as something else.
https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Otium-Bluetooth-Wireless-Modulator/dp/B01DZKERVY

Try picking up some ferrite clamps to put on the cable to see if it will help the cable effectively reject the interference.

​

Such as these: https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Ferrite-Suppressor/dp/B015RAZTIA

Your much better off getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=bluetooth+adapter&qid=1558843333&s=gateway&sprefix=bluetooth+ada&sr=8-16 and plugging it into your aux input Jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Blueskysea-Universal-Hardwire-Adapter-Camera/dp/B075WPSZYH

Is this a good one?

It looks like it plugs right into your fuse box

or this one (since its not on back order)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=d2f-20&linkId=abc4e1a3ed8c0acde8be2047e1074b9a&th=1

This is the proper fix for anyone else looking!

https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Ferrite-Filter/dp/B015RAZTIA

Ferrite beads prevent interference in two directions: from a device or to a device.[1] A conductive cable acts as an antenna – if the device produces radio frequency energy, this can be transmitted through the cable, which acts as an unintentional radiator. In this case the bead is required for regulatory compliance, to reduce EMI. Conversely, if there are other sources of EMI, such as household appliances, the bead prevents the cable from acting as an antenna and receiving interference from these other devices. This is particularly common on data cables and on medical equipment.

Source wikipedia. Plus ive used many of these.

These work pretty well. You still need to select an FM channel to use it on but when you power up the unit it cuts the actual radio signal. Its as clear as a direct AUX input.

Oh, nope. The 06-08 does not have an aux Jack at all. You can add one with a cable with some special connector to the back of the radio. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_.U8hzbEHA4NTM

As it is, it won't be able to play music over Bluetooth, all it supports is conversations over phone. The only way I was able to stream music over Bluetooth was with an aftermarket device plugged into the media socket.

You can find one here https://www.amazon.ca/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU

Even then, it's unreliable. Sound cuts out and it's completely impossible to select songs through your MMI controls.

To stream music with your iPhone, this will do the trick...

https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Kit-AUDI/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521215619&sr=8-2&keywords=bovee

As for phone calls, it should support that by default.

Yes I just did this. https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000B-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R3ABHXY

I use that. You may need a different model so do some research.

I used to use aux for playing music and recently I bought this bluetooth device which is special for MINI and BMW. It's bit pricey but very useful. I don't have to plug any cables to my phone except if I want to charge it. Also, you can use the bluetooth on your car for phone calls and this device for music at the same time. It also displays song info on the cars radio, if you have an iphone.

Edit: I use a cig. lighter usb charger to charge my phone since the usb on the car is very weak for charging.

Couple things you can try.

1. Try coiling any excess length of your speaker wire. The wire is basically an antenna that’s receiving the AM signal and your speaker isn’t shielded enough so it is amplified and you hear it. Shortening the length of the wire can help.
   
   
2. You can try a ferrite and clamp one or two along the wire.

Are you sure?
In my 06 all i had to do was pull the unit out and directly plug in the adaptor and a filter and I had aux.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FFCONA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would this be a decent solution?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Transmitter-Wireless-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Smartphone/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479474857&sr=1-5&keywords=cigarette+aux

You need to check amazon more...

https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-SB360-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537757171&sr=8-5&keywords=car+bluetooth&dpID=51giZd72%252BGL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/BK01-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1537757254&sr=8-19&keywords=car+bluetooth

[This](BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit – A Car Amplifier Wiring Kit Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power To Your Radio, Subwoofers and Speakers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VwCBCb6S7WHR4) might be the exact kit I used

It's been great so far except it's a 2009 and I can connect my phone for bluetooth calling but not for bluetooth music and I bought this ami cable with an aux cord and it didn't work. thinking about getting this but It's so expensive.

Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mElDzb7W3ED13

I would actually recommend this one

You should first try clipping something like these onto both ends of the USB cable. It might be all you need.

I have a BT to Aux Device with power from an USB charger in the cigarette lighter. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/

There are car specific ones with 12v constant power like this too. Main unit clips to a vent. Has a call/assistant button. Pause. Skip.

If you have an Aux In, maybe check out something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uk5PDbYT9AN5Y

I am using the Viofo A129, and using this hardwire kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J3L2JN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It feels like metal.

I see that cam comes with one cord only. Mine came with two: One 12v socket cord, and a fused cord that can be added to any fuse block.

I used an add-a-circuit splitter from Autozone, tapped into a radio fuse, and set both up. I used a radio fuse that was only powered with the key on, meaning when the radio turned off with the truck, the dashcam would also power off as to not kill the battery.

If you're handy, you can do the same and keep your 12v socket free.

Here's the fused cord that came with my dashcam. It's got the same USB connector as yours, I see.

Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit for V1, V1P, V1 3rd Gen Dash Cams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sr6YDbM3ZRQZN

Well on my 06 the bose headunit has a plug for satellite radio that you can buy an adapter for on amazon to convert it into an aux port. Not sure if your year has that or not.

https://www.amazon.com/Goliton-3-5mm-Connect-iPhone-Player/dp/B006FFCONA

I totally gutted the blose system from my car minus the headunit. Speaker blew out and would’ve cost $150 to replace, or $300 for aftermarket everything

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE

/thread

lol. Most shops will charge $75-100 to install it. Not difficult to do yourself but can be time consuming.

Bestbuy has it at their store for $140 with the install included!

Well, there’s this if you want to go wireless.

https://www.amazon.com/Bovee-Bluetooth-Car-Mini-Coopers/dp/B00R3ABHXY

Beware of the cheap Y cables. They’re not certified devices so your XS won’t charge on them.

Here’s one that should work:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-360374-genuine-bmw-iphone-5-6-lightning-usb-y-cable-audio-music-adapter/

Or

https://www.amazon.com/BMW-61-12-2-408-012-Adapter-Music-Media/dp/B016KC0W04

This is what I use in my 2012 and it works really well.

If you want the absolute easiest setup look into the isimple products. Tap into the power and ground from your factory head unit and plug in the fm signal interrupter, then run the wires where you want them to hang out.
With the proper tools and a little bit of background info you'll be done in 30 minutes or less

Link for device with bluetooth. Others are cheaper without.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BPQBxbV29A62T

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8HUbzbJS9VH5Y

I added this to my 135i and it worked. Make sure it works with your i drive

I can control music with the stock head unit and it routes phone calls to the incar speaker. Also it shows artist etc

Sure, I use this nunet model as an example, because it is almost universally compatible with different USB inputs, and I literally just finished installing it in my car:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J3L2JN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It, and similar other models sell (US) for ~$15

Edit: added piece

I used this with my stock headunit. Worked pretty well. It's not 100% perfect sound quality, but it's close and it allows you to skip songs.

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Otium-Bluetooth-Wireless-Modulator/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488305048&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bluetooth+car+adapter&psc=1

Edit: yeah I forgot I ended up getting this which worked for my 2015 r61 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3ABHXY/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item

No contest winner is going to be the iSimple TranzitBlu. This is a hardwired FM modulator. Minimal installation and works on every head unit. Zero static, no FM bullshit. Autoconnects when you start the car. I've installed probably 100 of them.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISFM23-Universal-Bluetooh-Transmitter/dp/B00DHQ6K7Q/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tranzit+blu&qid=1555077821&s=gateway&sr=8-2

If you want a version that does handsfree calling too, here ya go.

The ONLY issue/complaint I've had on them is switching between paired devices. It can be done, but folks don't understand the timing required (since there's no screen to guide them). But if you're just going to pair one phone to it and always use one phone, it's flawless.