(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car audio subwoofers

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

Sorry, didn't mean to disparage your rig, just really rare to see a sleeper :)

I find Parts Express to be the best place, but I do browse Amazon for deals occasionally.

https://www.parts-express.com/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0081JFX8G

As an example, here is a driver that is discontinued so you can pick it up dirt cheap despite the high quality and power handling. It has dual 4 Ohm voice coils so you can wire it in parallel for a 2 Ohm load. That will let you make the most of a pro-tier amp like I mentioned earlier, almost all should be 2 Ohm stable.

You can use the published specifications of a driver to create a profile for it in WinISD, which can model the ideal box volume, along with SPL for a given power level, and port air speed.

Works really well in a ported enclosure, although like all good subs it needs quite a bit of space, especially at high power levels due to the port size needed to avoid chuffing. In a sealed config you basically gain nothing in terms of flatness but lose quite a but of extension, but drivers that behave this way are the exception, not the rule.

Then all you need is MDF, wood glue, and some material to make a port, PVC piping that has been rounded off is decent. If you lack access to a table saw and router for the construction you can buy pre-cut kits for some popular drivers.

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/knock-down-flat-pack-speaker-cabinets/3396

As for connections, Neutrik plugs+sockets work best. Cheap, secure, and has 4 pins so drivers with dual voice coils can be wired up externally.

Not OP, but was hoping you could help me out too, if you don't mind. Here are my goals: have mirror shaking, hair raising, piss off the neighbors when I crank it up loud (it doesn't even have to sound great, just not horrible), and some nice punch and rumble when I'm just cruising around. I want to get a remote bass knob (I used to have 2 Visonik 12s which yes, were cheap, but they performed well past my expectations, but are discontinued. You could feel your hair vibrate and see the mirrors shaking when i turned the bass up, but at normal levels, you could still see a twitch, and feel it in your body. I paid maybe $200 for them. I'm now looking at these. Part of me wants to get the 12s (because society ingrained bigger = better in my head) but i have an Audi TT Roadster, which is pretty small. Any input would be much appreciated, thank you!

I went to crutchfield and did 4 , 3 way rock ford fosgates and then a 8 inch sub under the passenger seat cost about 500 with sub install. I did the speakers they are easy jsut YouTube it. Install on sub was 200 with all the wiring and taking apart my car to run it and mount the sub. I also got a power under seat sub to make it easy so you don’t have to deal with any other Amps. Now it bumps really Loud, clear, crisp, and so much more bass and it’s so clean. I also did some door insulation for like 30 bucks since the stock is super cheap and horrible .(didn’t bother replacing tweeters with 3 way setup)


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html
These are the speakers and come with all the mouthing hardware and no need for amp they take no power to run and Car runs fine stock. This Alone is a great cheap place to start then add a sub


Rockville RW8CA 8" 600 Watt Low Profile Under-Seat Active Powered Car Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RFGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sxrJDbJWNHFNZ
This sub is super dope sounds amazing. This is the one thing I payed for to install. They will try to get you to buy some pass through amp just. Say no it’s not Needed they try to sell that the volume will be limited without it but it’s plenty loud enough you can have a party outside.


Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B5EMGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FzrJDbHS83TNV
Here is the door insulation

Good luck! Hope all this made sense! I also put the sub under the passenger seat and I love it you can feel the music a little more and not boomy sounding and doesn’t cost anymore depending on where you put it as well.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

That adapter should work as well as this guy. I have used PAC products in the past and have nothing bad to say about them. It's worth noting that both www.crutchfield.com and www.sonicelectronix.com will give you the dash kit and antenna adapter free, as well as a steep discount on the wiring harness with the purchase of most head units. It may cost a bit more for the head unit, but you will make that up in free stuff+savings on the harness. Example my brother got his GMOS-04 ($99) for like $40 with his head unit purchase on Crutchfield.

Now about the sub, if you plan to add another sub later, go with the same size one. It's way less headache, plus even though having a 10 and a 12 sounds like a good idea (have all frequencies covered and all that) it really doesn't work out that well. Another thing to consider is the ohm load at the amp.

• The SWR-12D4 is a dual 4 ohm coil sub. You can get ohm loads of either 2 or 8 depending on how you wire it. If you have 2 of these subs you can only achieve 1 or 4 ohms, again depending on how you wire the subs together.
  
  
• The amp you have selected is not 1 ohm stable, if you wire your subs that way, it will power them for a short time, then turn itself off. Eventually you will kill the amp. If you wire your subs to 4 ohms, you will only get ~650 watts out of the amp, and that's not nearly enough for 2 type r's.
  
  Here's what I would do if you want to get one sub now, and another one later.
  
  
• Get a 2 ohm Type-R 12, and wire it to 4 ohms. That amp will put around 600 watts to it at 4 ohms, perfect.
  
  
• When you are ready, get a second 2 ohm Type R 12, and wire them in series parallel, to get the total load down to 2 ohms, the amp will put out it's full 1100 watts, and those 12's will slam good and proper for you!

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

I'm no professional, but there was one thing I did that made them sound way better. I put them in a ported box like this:


https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Universal-Vented-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG5ZC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540921289&sr=8-3&keywords=vented+dual+subwoofer+box


And they were way louder. If you take them out of the box they're in you'll see that the way they're wired is a bit strange (to me, a car audio novice). The + and - on one of the subs is wired to the negative terminal on the back, the other one is wired to the positive terminal. I'm not sure why this is, maybe it was to wire them to a particular "ohm", which I'm not super knowledgeable on. Anyway, I bought a vented box with two sets of terminals and ran each sub a + and - cable to my 2 channel amp. The sound was about twice as loud. I'm pretty sure it had something to do with wiring, but definitely a lot to do with the port. Overall, I'd say ditch that box and get a new one. I was really happy with my decision to do that. Just make sure you're not doing something like wiring them down to 1ohm since they're only a single voice coil.

Need some system advice.
I will be playing within a double garage thats decent in size, its expected to have about 100-200 people. Really only care about the sound quality within the garage.

I've read a couple other threads and they suggest 2 12in tops, 3-4 15in subs, and 2 12in monitors for parties similar to this. As of now here is what I was looking at for the 12 tops:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3LQLQQ
And these for the subs:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLPW15D-15-Inch-2000-Subwoofer/dp/B0071HY3T4/

I also just thought about if I am going to be needing a receiver or amp or both and am a little lost and what to do about that if anyone can shed some light on that would be much appreciated.

I will be playing half trap & dubstep and half hip hop bay area Mac Dre type rap if this makes a difference at all.

Thank you very much for any help or insight on all this!

Front speakers: Pioneer TS-D1720C $100

This is the set I have in my SUV and I really like them. I really feel like they are the best bang for the buck, and have been since about 2008 when they came out. It is possible to go cheaper but quality will drop off fast.

Sub: Pioneer TS-W310S4 $65

Box: Belva MDFS12 $35

Honestly this is scraping the bottom of the barrel. The price of the sub puts it in line with some genuine crap and from the pictures it looks like the box is made from particle board, not MDF. The only reason I feel comfortable making the suggestion is that I own a TS-W309D4 (it's in my garage now) and it sounded ok on 300 watts. The box won't make that much difference since it's going in a trunk; if you had a hatchback I would still suggest the Scosche posted previously.

Amp: Hifonics BRX640.4 $140

In my opinion Hifonics makes some of the best bang for the buck amps available. This amp is a compromise between this model and the smaller BRX320.4. The smaller amp would give you 40 watts per channel on the front speakers, which would be ok, but only 120 watts on the sub which would leave you disappointed. The BRX320.4 is only $30 cheaper than the BRX640.4 which will give you 80 watts for each of the front speakers and 320 for the sub.

You'll still need the KCA amp kit and additional set of RCAs. Total $378. Keep in mind that for $35 more you can still get the JBL 12" sub and Scosche box.

Personally I would stay away from kicker's lower end stuff. If you're going to put in the effort of fiberglassing a box and running an amp that nice then you could get two of these skar's for about the same price and throw them in a custom ported box for a better sound! Or I would also recommend spending a little more on something like a sundown e-12.

As for the box, I think fiberglassing would be a great idea. As long as you have the time and tools then it's a great way to maximize airspace.

Wow those were some nice subs man, sorry for your loss :( Did they take your amp too?

If you really liked the Pioneer series there's some good news: they still make their Champion Pro series. These TS-W3003D4 are 2 generations ahead of your old ones. And are fairly priced. They are 600W each now, perfectly matched for a 1 ohm 2 sub config powered by a Pioneer GM-D9601

There are several other options to go for at higher price ranges. Some other decent subs you can get in the ~$70 price range are the Alpine Type S and the JBL GTO1214D

Tough first build I hope it comes out sick.

I’d suggest stretching the budget a hair and getting Image Dynamics ID10’s

Or going a hair bigger on the enclosure and getting image Dynamics ID12’s

They’re nice budget SQ-ish subs that do well in sealed enclosures.

Feed them with about 750watt amp at 1 ohm and they’ll sound very nice.

Something like this or this
Or this

Would pair up nicely

Ported isn’t going to work in that amount of space.

Hey there! I recently purchased the same sub myself!

I am running a Hifonics Zeus 1200: http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1200-1D-Zeus-Amplifier/dp/B00CXX97TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416627023&sr=8-1&keywords=hifonics+1200

And a pre fab box: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUT3JOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this setup and it is amazing. Really hits hard, a bit too much for my car actually. The box is actually pretty good, it seems well built and gets pretty low with the sub. But I am guessing a larger box could hit a bit lower. But for the price its not bad.

The amp seems pretty good too! I have worked it pretty hard in hot LA weather and it has never gone into protect mode. Built quality could be a bit better on the mounts, but for the price its not b ad.

I installed a Kenwood DMX7705S in my first gen and Android Auto works great with it. I also went the extra mile and installed a Maestro idatalink to keep the steering wheel controls and also have the ability to read the OBD II codes incase my check engine light comes on.

Edit: Here's an old thread where I detail a little more on what's needed for the installation.

Double edit: If you're also interested in getting a sub and don't want to clutter up the area behind the back seats, I suggest checking out this Bazooka enclosure that is made specifically for first gen tCs. It's pretty simple to install and the wiring harness connects straight to the stock wiring for the radio.

This is surprisingly a great setup for shaking your car on a budget. My friend has this in a 2001 Jeep Cherokee and it absolutely screams, and for $150, it looks like it's right in your price range, and you can get some better door speakers while you're at it, if you want. I agree though, the Terminators aren't that great at all.

Disclaimer, I'm into very high end car audio, so this might be overkill.

I would not recommend using the cutout in the rear deck if it is available, which it isn't. Definitely no cutout there. You would be much better off putting a little ten inch sealed box in the trunk. Shouldn't take up much space at all, and will sound much better. You get into some weird issues putting aftermarket subwoofers in stock rear deck locations anyways, most subwoofers can't be run in an "infinite baffle" set up like that.


Here is a very decent system for under $600

Front Speakers $140


Subwoofer $130


Subwoofer Box $35


Amplifier $170


LOC $100


Budget a minimum of $200 for install.


This will be a killer system. Super clean and plenty loud. The four channel amp's two rear channels can be bridged to power the subwoofer. Trust me, you don't need rear speakers.

You can also install the subwoofer and amps where the spare tire goes, just get AAA.

Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM

So basically my setup will be that box,

Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001

Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS

Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105

Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU

Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!

Sub

Amp

Box

Wiring

Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.

Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.

I would just go with

2- Dayton Audio DC130AS-8 5-1/4" Classic Shielded Woofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KRBGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mn2mDb9K9J8KS

1- Pyle 15" -inch Car Subwoofer - DVC Pro Audio Car Sub, 4 Ohm (PLPW15D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071HY3T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qo2mDb52EA19H

And 1- ONEU Audio Amplifier, Separated Subwoofer Volume Controlled Stereo Amplifier 2 x 45-Watt and 1x68W Sub Output, Super Bass 2.1 Channel Audio Power Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5D5ONB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pp2mDbER2AF63

If you have a sub you like then you can just use that one.
Just wire the speakers up to the top left and right channels respectively and then bridge the bottoms channels together for the sub.

Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV


Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha

are these speakers you already have?

compact subs are a thing. yes, they're intended for use in a car, but the are self-powered and will work in your home with a good 12v PSU, and only need audio source. you're dealing with a tight space, compromises may be needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RFGY/ would fit under the couch.

​

or depending on budget, you can get a sunfire sub. their 8" is just about a 1 foot cube.

https://www.sunfire.com/product/8-dual-driver-200w-powered-sub-black-ash-SDS8

​

you can also use front-ported bookshelf speakers as your rear channels and put them IN the bookshelves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E35XGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BzzsoYCrL&ref=plSrch

Something like this? Maybe buy a wiring package + line out coverter with it?

I found this as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGW8GOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=51JPj2PGwYL&ref=plSrch

This is $50 cheaper and includes wiring, but I'm guessing it's cheaper in the amp? Is it more worth it to buy the more expensive system with the better amp?



Also, I noticed the subwoofers I linked only go down to 40hz. Will that be an issue for deep bass?

I have similar units from Alpline in brackets under my driver and passenger seats. They put out some great sound which you can literally feel without shaking the car and are hardly visible. It's a worthwhile direction for sure!

Yea, speakers are probably pretty worn out.

I'd go with the following:

Rear Door(may need adapter plate) - Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) by Infinity http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BZFSYA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hy-7tb0GWF559

Front and Dash (I've got a set almost exactly the same, love em). You'll need 2 sets - Infinity Kappa 4"x6" 2-Way Loudspeakers-Pair (Black) by Infinity http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FP3IKW2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_KA-7tb1PQYKHT

Sub (This will need a box. I recommend building your own sealed box.) - Rockford Fosgate P2D4-12 Punch P2 DVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 400 Watts RMS 800 Watts Peak Subwoofer by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXIS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oK-7tb0ZS0FWV

And the amp - Kenwood Kac-8405 720-Watt 4/3/2-Channel Amplifier with Variable LPF/HPF by Kenwood http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038FNIBW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1N-7tb12DPXJD

Head Unit - Kenwood KDC-152 In-Dash MP3/WMA CD Receiver by Kenwood http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006KKS7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ZQ-7tb00XP2RM

I didn't actually count it up, but that should be pretty close to your budget.

Rockville RWS12CA Slim 1200 Watt 12" Powered Car Subwoofer Enclosure + Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNT4YBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wLH0Ab8ZG18K8

I went cheap, but it has good reviews and sounds really good.

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

Closely following this because i was about to post the same exact thread. also this might be relevent. Found what looks like a nice package on amazon. take from that what you will because im neither an audio or car guy probably like yourself. https://www.amazon.com/TNE212D-12-Inch-Loaded-Subwoofers-Package/dp/B01BGW8GOM

I am excited about a possible solution...

Something like this for an amp, which seems to only need 15A if I understand correctly and can run off the head unit's power:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46#nav-search-keywords

With two channels powering my NVX 6.5 component speakers in the front, 45W RMS each, and two channels bridged to give 90W RMS to something like this:

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007WW4XW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504325376&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bazooka+bt1014&dpPl=1&dpID=418%2BoblkGlL&ref=plSrch

I have an LC2i LOC for the sub.

It won't rattle the neighbors' windows, but it might be better than nothing. I'm not very knowledgeable about car audio, but maybe this could work? I'll run it by my audio guys tomorrow.

With your amp being 500 watts, the Type S rated 500 watts, would match better and save you some money. It seems that sonicelectronix and crutchfield do not have the 15" Type S, but can be found on amazon for $175 https://www.amazon.com/SWS-15D4-Alpine-4-Ohm-Type-S-Subwoofer/dp/B0081JFX8G

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I would also throw out here this 15" NVX sub for $100 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_105463_NVX-VSW154v2-VSW154-v2.html

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For 10s

id say 2 of https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39835_JL-Audio-10W0v3-4-10-Subwoofer.html

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or https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_89947_NVX-NSW102v2.html wired like this https://i.imgur.com/tSsnNLb.jpg

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or https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_128073_Alpine-W10S4-10-Bass-Subwoofer.html

Here they are:
Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12

The reviews are very good no matter where you look, crutchfield, Woofersetc, CA, Amazon, etc. Of course theres the random dumb-ass that blew them up in 10 mins because they obviously didn't know what they are doing, but that's inevitable with a lot of sales lol.

I somehow doubt Fosgate would build an enclosure for the subs that didn't sound/work well. But they do have a sealed enclosure for them as well. I like sealed enclosures, but I might prefer ported for the extra cooling it provides. Especially in the insane heat we have here in the summers, I am curious how they'd do in a sealed box in the trunk...

I'm also thinking I'll probably mount my amp under my seat if possible, or anywhere in the cab so it'll have air conditioning. A little less heat can't hurt.

This is the cheapest I can come up with, and requires a few screws and the use of a drill. But I can about guarantee it'll sound better than the Dayton 1000, AND you can upgrade the amp down the road to push more watts at it. And I can say Skar makes a quality driver. I'm running the 18" EVL18-D2 in a Skar vented box with an 800 watt RMS QSC power amp. It thumps.

Just a thought, because it's always nice to be able to upgrade without buying a whole new sub.

100 watt mono amp with built in crossover

Generic sealed 12" poly'd box

Skar IX-12 Subwoofer

I don't have any experience with the type s, but I really liked my type r. I got this Type r from amazon.

Rockville RWS12CA Slim 1200 Watt 12" Powered Car Subwoofer Enclosure + Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNT4YBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCoQDb5CX86YJ


I have one and it's not terrible for the price. I was looking for something to add a little bass that I could swap into my other vehicles relatively easy. It's not going to rattle your neighbors windows, but it's better than whatever your stock system will put out

**Shit I dopped my /s

I forget exactly which bazooka I got. I got it used on ebay many years ago but this seems close:
http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BT1014-10-Inch-4-Ohm-Bass/dp/B0007WW4XW

I would look around to see which one is best for your needs.

As for the amp, same deal, I bought it many years ago and cant remember the specs but unless you're going for a ton of bass, any cheap amp should do the trick just to give your sound a bit of decent bass so it doesn't sound so "trebley" .

If you're looking for a practical sub box, this thing is the way to go. fits a 10" and is reasonably priced. Not only is this a custom Scion TC box on the cheap, but they even throw in a built in 100 rms (200 peak) sub/amp combo. What a steal. Of course I took out the original sub and put in a Focal P25 since I already had it and wired it to a different amp.

But this was a steal. Not only is this box pretty awesome, but the stock sub and amp is too. they even tossed in a wiring harness that plugs into the stock radio. It's pretty freaking loud for how cheap the sub is. I'm just so happy I can still use my trunk and fold the seats flat for any purpose.

If i were you i would check out Pioneer Champion, Rockford Fosgate, or Dayton RSS.

The sundown is a strong spl sub from what i hear. I just haven't used them yet and cant give you an opinion on em other than people say that they need every bit of power you can give them. In the comments folks are saying there running 1400w rms to one, so think about that. The others i have. I am running two champions and they flex @ ~500rms each. I got them when they were on sale for like 90 a piece. Such a steal.

But to answer you question, imo, that box might not sound the best with the SA-12, or the Dayton Hos.

I installed a small alpine one. It has the speaker and subwoofer in one enclosure and I installed under the passenger seat. If money isn’t an issue JL audio has a very nice subwoofer too just for wranglers.

Alpine


https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Electronics-PWE-S8-Restyle-Subwoofer/dp/B00OYGGMXK

JL Audio


https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-jeep-wrangler-unlimited-18-up

MTX TNE212D 12" 1200W Dual Loaded Car Subwoofers + Box + Planet 1500W Amp + Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGW8GOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TEAdBbWY8WFZY

This is what I was talking about. This wouldn’t be good enough?

So I was thinking more on the install, would this guy fit in the spot where the Bose woofer would go, if I had one?

What amp and wiring kit should I get for 2 Rockford Fosgate P1-2x12's?
I'd like to stick with Rockford Fosgate brand

Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_-Gz3wbSAYP0BN

Was thinking of just getting a ported box, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFEG5ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.1cmzb5FRJZ8G

There are low profile subs similar to this which would fit under the seat. I can't speak from experience but it's something I wanted to try when I get some spare cash.

>Just go to Sonic Electronixs ( or any other car audio websites new people look at ) and look up brands most veterans in the industry stand by.

99% of people looking to put something in their car don't even do that. They go to Amazon and go with highly rated garbage. Seriously 76% of the 95 reviews are 5 stars.

Posting on mobile so excuse the link mess please.... Here's the other link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MJ0H38/ref=pd_gwm_psimh_2?pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GMCZEMBR5D0RX8YJBNXF&pd_rd_wg=sMEbz&pd_rd_r=GMCZEMBR5D0RX8YJBNXF&pf_rd_r=GMCZEMBR5D0RX8YJBNXF&pf_rd_p=cc000f63-21ee-4dc4-b9b6-9082ebacae63&pd_rd_w=Stfyo&pd_rd_i=B001MJ0H38