Reddit mentions: The best car subwoofers

Okay everybody, sit down. Class has started. Getting into car audio can be the most intimidating thing to start. So many brands, power ratings, trying to find a compatible amp. On top of that, a lot of companies lie about there power ratings. Ok so lets start with subwoofers. When looking on amazon you will see a lot of subwoofers claiming RMS and max power. RMS is the rated watts that a subwoofer can handle. Max power rating is just a fake number companies will make to make there product sound better than it is. ( Heres an example Pyle PLPW10D 10-Inch 1000 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7CRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nixzybQY8YTXY ) notice how 1000 watts is in the title. If you put 1000 watts rms on that sub it wont last one min. Its rms rating says 500 watts rms. Now that subwoofer linked above is a pyle of crap. Stay away from these brands (Pyle, Planet Audio, Boss not to be confused with Bose) these are better choices ( Rockford, Pioneer, Kicker, Alpine) balls to the walls best choice ( Skar Audio, Sundown Audio) there are tons of brands but those are most common. A good rule of thumb is looking at the size of the magnet. The bigger the magnet the more power it can handle and usually better quality. (Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DvxzybSARDNC5 ) long story short is you get what you pay for. 30$ 500 watt sub looks to good to be true because it is. Build quality is junk and its going to sound like crap. Now if you want a good thump. I recommend staying in the 300-500 watts rms range. It wont kill the budget and you can get some decent bass. Anything higher than that, you will start to get into the car rattling range. Now back to subwoofer specs, you will see different types of ohms and voice coil configurations on subwoofers. Ohms is resistance. Lower the ohm=easier power flow, so more power can be delivered easier. Now voice coil config can get confusing. There can be one of two options on a subwoofer, single voice coil And dual voice coil. A SVC is simply one positive and one negative terminal on a subwoofer. When you have a DVC you have two positive and two negative terminals. Now the reasoning for this is with a DVC sub you can change the ohm rating on the sub itself with different wiring configurations. You can change a dual 2 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm wiring in parallel ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) thats one example, you can raise, lower or keep it at original ohm. See with a single voice coil sub, you cant change the ohms because there are only one set of positive and negative terminals BUT you can use an identical sub and use its set of terminals to change the ohms of both subs ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-SVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) now the whole reasoning for this is because at different ohm ratings, you will get a different output on your amp. (Remember lower ohm= higher power) so heres an example ( i'm making these numbers up btw) a amp could have these listed... 8 ohm 50 watts, 4ohm 100 watts , 2ohm 200 watts, 1ohm 400 watts. Now lets say you have a dual 4 ohm 200 watt sub. You would want to wire it in parallel to change the ohms to 2 and then you will get 200 watts, which is what my fake sub was rated for. Now if you have the same sub but was a single voice coil, that wouldn't be the best amp for that sub. It would only receive 100 watts when its rated for 200. So it would be recommended to find a more compatible amp. I shouldn't have to say this but you obviously want to match watts rms with your subwoofer and amp. They say to stay in 80% - 125% of rated power of the sub. So that pretty much means if your sub is 350 watts, and you have the ohm configed to deliver 400 watts then thats fine. If its a good brand and has good build quality you can push it farther than its rated for. Like sundown audio subwoofer can be pushed 300 watts more than rated and run perfectly fine. You will know when your pushing your sub two hard. It will either make a clunk meaning it bottomed out. (It moved in or out to far) or you will smell something burning. Thats your voice coil starting to heat up. If that was to happen, turn down the bass and let it cool and adjust bass level. Now lets talk about good amplifiers, there probably going to be the most expensive item in car audio. Rule of thumb for amps is to not be cheap and don't fall for all the eye candy. The bigger and heavier the amp, the more believable the power rating is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00011KLXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eIyzybKGRQYJV ) something that small is no way going to output "3000" watts, you probably wouldn't get more than 500 watts. Alot of cheapo brands will put lights and crazy colors to try and attract you to there products. Thats usually a sign of junk. Make sure you look at rms power and reviews will usually say if it was a good buy. Companies like boss will even lie about rms. Now subwoofer amps are called class D amplifiers. There usually two channel or mono block meaning how many terminals there will be on the amp. You can use a multi channel amp on one sub if its strong enough. Also if your planning on wiring your sub to one ohm, make sure the amp is stable to run at one ohm. There is also bridging. When you take one positive of one channel and one negative of the other channel of the amp. So it combines the power of both channels. Amp needs to be compatible to do that. I recommend getting an amp with a bass knob but any decent brand should have one included. A good method of finding true rms of an amp is adding up fuse ratting and multiplying it by voltage. So my amp claims 1500 watts. It has no fuse but has an inline fuse by the battery ratted for 100 amps 100x12=1200 watts. 12 being average voltage, that number can fluctuate to 13.5. My amp is actually compatible up to 16 volts. 100x16=1600 watts, Most amps being only 80-90% efficient = 1500 watts. Also get a decent amp kit, if you get cheap junk, you can choke your amp. If the cables going from the battery to the amp are two small your amp can short out. And for the box, build one. Many sub manufacturers will have a recommendation for there sub, and have all the dimensions listed. If thats not your thing then you can buy one but they can be expensive. I recommend a ported box over sealed. I think thats about everything....if you have any questions, i'm here to help. Don't get discouraged, if you take the time to do it right, your 400 watts system will sound better than your buddies 3000 watt system.

I forgot to mention this but its better to over power then to under power your subwoofer. If your amp is 300 watts and your sub wants 500 then your going to have a number of problems. Your amp will produce alot of distortion and it will be under alot of stress. It will also get hot enough to cook on. Not only that but it will also damage your sub. Think about like this, your sub if built to move farther than the amp is capable of pushing it. This causes clipping and you will get loud popping sounds from your sub.


Also "professional" installers may not be the most trustworthy guys out there. Not saying there all bad but if you show them that you don't know much, they may try to sell you the junk i told you to stay away from at a premium price. The installation really isn't that difficult. Do a some research and it will only take a few hours at most

This doesn't seem like it's unsalvageable at all. The Hertz speaks you got look like they're pretty nice, and this amp actually seems really cool if it does what it says on paper.

Like everyone else said, yes, that sub is junk. Putting another, better sub in that box may not really accomplish what you want, either. The thing about subwoofers is that the size of the box you put them in matters. Subwoofer specifications will list the ideal internal volume of the box you put them in, depending on whether or not the box is sealed, ported, or bandpass.

If you don't know the difference it's worth a Google to read up on, but it looks like you have a sealed box, meaning there's no other holes in it. It's a closed box that the speaker is installed into. This tends to be the most common in simple setups.

In your case, if you're looking for something that will sound good and fit under your seat, I'd suggest looking at the Kicker Hideaway powered sub. I was somewhat skeptical of it, but I took a shot on it and installed it in my girlfriend's Subaru wagon under the driver's seat. I'm honestly really impressed with it. For its size, it can put out a huge amount of bass and the sound quality is really good.

Your amp has a sub pre-amp out that could easily be run to a powered sub like this, and it'd probably fit right under the seat in that truck.

Honestly I think you're about 85% of the way to a really nice sounding system, you just need to get the DSP set up properly and solve the subwoofer equation.

This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!

Here are some answers I've found:

1. L-Drive puts on full-regen when your foot isn't on the gas. If the HV battery is full, it uses the engine in air-compression mode to achieve a similar engine break. This is by far the fastest way to charge your vehicle, though not the most efficient. If you put it in L and tap the breaks at all, it reduces your breaking efficiency, so from this I'm pretty sure regenerative breaks are the electric motor regening. edit; this is a good way to learn to judge the regen-breaks capability. I think it's in maximum, electric (regen) deceleration in L, when your foot is off the pedal.
   
   
2. The charging port allows for a maximum of 16a, 3.3kwh - however the battery can accept a charge of 145a and ..1305kwh?
   
   
3. There are a distinct set of 'driver' controls and options in the left cluster menu - personalizing keys, auto unlocking and more are all available here.
   
   
4. My car does not have front radar :(
   
   
5. The Personal Key I mentioned which supposedly increased driving efficiency is for the MyFord Mobile app. It allows you to have two drivers which gain their own, unique scores.
   
   
6. I'm hoping that I can pull apart the center console enough to insert the ground effects I want - I also want to tie into the DC jack on the under side of the console, so my console isn't packed.
   
   
7. Side damage is bound to happen, if I can just accept that and keep it confined to the lower side skirting, I'll be golden. The side skirting does replace very readily - you can order the year and color from ford for $125 per side.
   
   
8. All available tax credits are tracked by the government, here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/laws/ELEC
   
   --
   
   
9. Subwoofers: On the SE package, you can see where the sub on the TIT package would be. Aftermarket, it looks like my choices are an 8" or 10" "low profile" or "slim" box - ideally self-powered. An Amp will fit on top of the HVB.
   Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.
   
   
10. Warranty - Since I bought my car out of state, I'm going to take it to the dealership ahead of schedule and have it given a once-over. I only have a few thousand more miles under factory warrant and if the warranty works the way I think it does, the dealership would be down to make as much money as possible, finding any problems they can. I want updates to everything (the manual says to contact ford if the dealership won't apply courtesy updates). In this way I can get my oil changed and reset the intelligent life counter as well, gain some peace of mind and get the light ring fixed (does that break often?)

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

Thanks for the input. I got the sub for $45, nowhere near the pricetag from the site but as I said it was used and the other one from the set blew in my friend's system.

That's great to know about the box too, I'll definitely be making some type of upgrade in the near future.

I'd prefer Amazon as I have a good amount left from a gift card. Do you think one of these options would be a good upgrade?

http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp

Description: Dual 12-inch, Terminator-loaded sealed enclosure
Impedance: 2 ohms
Frequency response (+/- 3 dB): 41 to 150 Hz
RMS power (watts): 400

or

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-BP1204-1100-Watt-Illumination-Subwoofer/dp/B000UTMDOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top (I'm iffy on the "Dual" brand, Amazon has mostly good reviews but I've found some very negative reviews elsewhere. I think the Amazon crowd was just "wowed" by the lights)

and finally, this one looks like my best option considering the amp's power but again I'm not sure of the Rockford brand
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1L-2X12-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B001P86T74/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367392434&sr=1-12&keywords=ported+box+12

Woofer Impedance: (2) 4-Ohm SVC
Internally wired in parallel to create a 2-Ohm amplifier load
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max

---------


The other options are keeping the sub I have and buying a single 12" ported box (maybe something like this), or finally a double 12" ported box and two appropriate 12" subs for the amp. Sorry to just slap a bunch of links and questions in here, I'm really confused after looking around at the options.

Not OP, but was hoping you could help me out too, if you don't mind. Here are my goals: have mirror shaking, hair raising, piss off the neighbors when I crank it up loud (it doesn't even have to sound great, just not horrible), and some nice punch and rumble when I'm just cruising around. I want to get a remote bass knob (I used to have 2 Visonik 12s which yes, were cheap, but they performed well past my expectations, but are discontinued. You could feel your hair vibrate and see the mirrors shaking when i turned the bass up, but at normal levels, you could still see a twitch, and feel it in your body. I paid maybe $200 for them. I'm now looking at these. Part of me wants to get the 12s (because society ingrained bigger = better in my head) but i have an Audi TT Roadster, which is pretty small. Any input would be much appreciated, thank you!

Sorry, didn't mean to disparage your rig, just really rare to see a sleeper :)

I find Parts Express to be the best place, but I do browse Amazon for deals occasionally.

https://www.parts-express.com/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0081JFX8G

As an example, here is a driver that is discontinued so you can pick it up dirt cheap despite the high quality and power handling. It has dual 4 Ohm voice coils so you can wire it in parallel for a 2 Ohm load. That will let you make the most of a pro-tier amp like I mentioned earlier, almost all should be 2 Ohm stable.

You can use the published specifications of a driver to create a profile for it in WinISD, which can model the ideal box volume, along with SPL for a given power level, and port air speed.

Works really well in a ported enclosure, although like all good subs it needs quite a bit of space, especially at high power levels due to the port size needed to avoid chuffing. In a sealed config you basically gain nothing in terms of flatness but lose quite a but of extension, but drivers that behave this way are the exception, not the rule.

Then all you need is MDF, wood glue, and some material to make a port, PVC piping that has been rounded off is decent. If you lack access to a table saw and router for the construction you can buy pre-cut kits for some popular drivers.

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/knock-down-flat-pack-speaker-cabinets/3396

As for connections, Neutrik plugs+sockets work best. Cheap, secure, and has 4 pins so drivers with dual voice coils can be wired up externally.

I went to crutchfield and did 4 , 3 way rock ford fosgates and then a 8 inch sub under the passenger seat cost about 500 with sub install. I did the speakers they are easy jsut YouTube it. Install on sub was 200 with all the wiring and taking apart my car to run it and mount the sub. I also got a power under seat sub to make it easy so you don’t have to deal with any other Amps. Now it bumps really Loud, clear, crisp, and so much more bass and it’s so clean. I also did some door insulation for like 30 bucks since the stock is super cheap and horrible .(didn’t bother replacing tweeters with 3 way setup)


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html
These are the speakers and come with all the mouthing hardware and no need for amp they take no power to run and Car runs fine stock. This Alone is a great cheap place to start then add a sub


Rockville RW8CA 8" 600 Watt Low Profile Under-Seat Active Powered Car Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RFGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sxrJDbJWNHFNZ
This sub is super dope sounds amazing. This is the one thing I payed for to install. They will try to get you to buy some pass through amp just. Say no it’s not Needed they try to sell that the volume will be limited without it but it’s plenty loud enough you can have a party outside.


Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B5EMGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FzrJDbHS83TNV
Here is the door insulation

Good luck! Hope all this made sense! I also put the sub under the passenger seat and I love it you can feel the music a little more and not boomy sounding and doesn’t cost anymore depending on where you put it as well.

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

This is just my opinion, I only have a basic understanding of CarAv stuff, but for 500 you could buy a whole new sub and amp. I dont know who and how much it is to repair a sub tho, so maybe its a better deal. But from my experience, my MTX Terminators are great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2?pc_redir=1408200639&robot_redir=1

Add a decent amp (250-300) , and theres your 500. Chuck a wiring kit in there too, set aside a full day to set it up and your good!

Just finished installing a 4 channel amp with a ton of help today, took alllll day. And dont rush yourself if you do install it. There are tons of helpful youtube videos out there.

Just my two cents!

EDIT: Heres an ok amp, under 200.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJF4V9G/ref=pd_aw_sims_7/188-5557484-9874164?pi=SS115&simLd=1

And my amp I use on my Terminators

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wb4A0iVTrjr/p_236T4250D/MTX-Thunder4250D.html

Hope this helped!

First I would say that these subs are great. I've had p3 12's and they slam pretty hard.

Second, can your electrical system handle 2 amps pushing 800 watts? Do you have a stock battery? Stock alternator? Upgraded big three? You might wanna consider doing this before loading your electrical system with ~130 extra amps.

Third, vehicle are you building in? Will you have enough space to build a box large enough to house 2 15" inch subwoofers?

Finally, here's what I would do in your situation.

• Buy two more [P1S4-12's](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/ref=sr_1_2?
  s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414689659&sr=1-2&keywords=p1+s4)
  
  
• buy a single R1200, wire the subs to them like this so they'll be seeing a 1 ohm load and the amp will be spitting out as much as its got
  
  
• build them a nice ported box, or buy a prefab for 3 12's
  
  I think going from 1 12 off 200 watts to 3 12's off ~1200 will definitely provide you with the more bass you crave without completely raping your electrical system. This route will also be a lot cheaper than your plan. Let me know if you have any questions.
  
  Edit: I would like to explain something that I wish I would have understood when I was first getting started. Subs and amps are not magic. They operate off electricity that doesn't just materialize from thin air. There is only a set amount of electricity alternating from the battery in your vehicle. Therefore, we can't just plug up high power amplifiers and expect everything to work out perfectly! We must be efficient with the amount of power we have, which is why you should get a nice box and focus on other means of proficiency.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

Start with the box. On the description is says...

> Enclosure Volume: 1.69 Cu. Feet/ Mounting Depth: 4-1/2"

I'm 95% sure this means total volume, meaning 0.85ft^3 per side. The Depth is also key.

What this all means is you need a flat sub that plays well in a 0.85ft^3 box. I'd recommend these Pioneer 12" flat subs over the Rockford's based on the performance of the 10" versions of the same Pioneer subs I have and the appearance of the Rockford woofers, but the Pioneers are 4 ohm woofers.

As for the amp you posted, it simply doesn't match the subs. Look for something like the Hifonics Brutus or Zeus, or PPI sub amp for around $150-200. Look for Class D architecture and a remote knob. Look for sub amp that can generate at least 1000 watts rms into 1 ohms.

Rockford is a good brand for sub amps, but not the Punch line. The regular Rockford line is a bit pricey but well regarded. The nice Rockford Class D, 1200 watt @ 1 ohm amp is $220 on Amazon Prime.

If you don't have a Big 3 upgrade & good wiring kit you'll not reap the benefits of all the money spent on amps & subs. A big 3 kit costs maybe $30 to DIY, and a good run of 1/0 power cable & accessories fuses, is less than about $50. Don't short change performance by not doing basic, necessary upgrades.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

Lets talk some talk.

Good

Better

Best

Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.

The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3

An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv

The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d

A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60

A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i

So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.

You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.

Lets calculate installation.

1. Amplifier Installation: $120
   
2. Line Out Converter Installation: $72
   
3. Load/Wire Subwoofer into Box: $24
   
4. Disable ANC: $48
   
   Labor is going to be around $264
   
   Labor + Parts = $705
   
   I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
   
   Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
   
   $700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
   
   If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
   
   
   

Need some system advice.
I will be playing within a double garage thats decent in size, its expected to have about 100-200 people. Really only care about the sound quality within the garage.

I've read a couple other threads and they suggest 2 12in tops, 3-4 15in subs, and 2 12in monitors for parties similar to this. As of now here is what I was looking at for the 12 tops:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3LQLQQ
And these for the subs:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLPW15D-15-Inch-2000-Subwoofer/dp/B0071HY3T4/

I also just thought about if I am going to be needing a receiver or amp or both and am a little lost and what to do about that if anyone can shed some light on that would be much appreciated.

I will be playing half trap & dubstep and half hip hop bay area Mac Dre type rap if this makes a difference at all.

Thank you very much for any help or insight on all this!

Thanks

Im still new to brands, havnt been in this hobby for that long to absorb all the reviews. What are the cheap/unreliable brands that i should stay away from? Im tempted to buy cheap but dont want it to blow up and smoke lol i want something stable.

I was thinking something like this for subs -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B06XDHP82F?th=1

And slap on some kinda amp like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XKYC/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B00T3QBLYG?th=1

This vs. This

I would rather custom build, but if I can save $$ from a kit I'll go with that.

The alphasonik kit is pretty impressive - two 12's in a box with an 800 watt amp (1600 max) for $177. I had some alphasonik subs back in the day and they hit surprisingly hard. Any opinions?

Thanks for this info. I think it may be in my best interest to find a more powerful single sub. And I like the idea of keeping a little trunk space. this sundown sub is what I’ve been looking at, and to keep my current amp for the time being

Tough first build I hope it comes out sick.

I’d suggest stretching the budget a hair and getting Image Dynamics ID10’s

Or going a hair bigger on the enclosure and getting image Dynamics ID12’s

They’re nice budget SQ-ish subs that do well in sealed enclosures.

Feed them with about 750watt amp at 1 ohm and they’ll sound very nice.

Something like this or this
Or this

Would pair up nicely

Ported isn’t going to work in that amount of space.

Thanks for the response. Looking at the Subwoofers with good ratings I found 3 models that I think would be good for me.

I could go with 2 of these

Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036MOQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I25mybM8C1RZ8

Or 1 of these

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u55mybA45BVQA

Or 1 of these

12W0V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W0V3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5ZCDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v65myb8P643ME.

All of the configurations above come to around the same price. I'm thinking one higher quality subwoofer would sound better than 2 of lower quality, correct? I'm planning on using a sealed box. Which one of these would be the best choice?

They would be compatible, but I think there are better deals out there.

If you are looking to get into car av, I think you will be much happier with this sub (you can get the 10,12, or 15 version. You will want the 2 ohm version though) for $200 and this amp for $130. You will just need to build or buy a box. If you have the means to build a box, you can look at CAF’s free box design (link to design in description)z you might be able to pay a cabinet builder to make one if you don’t have the means yourself. That brings you from $350 budget to $330, you just need a box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1

I'm about to buy 1 sundown sa 12 and a box and amp after reading the reviews. This link is to a 750 watt. It says 4 ohm, but in the description it says "RE: 7/07 ohms" What am I missing? Does it mean that it's 4 ohm if wired in parallel? I went to best buy and test drove some subs the guy had and I think I'd like something ~ 750W so if I bought a sundown sa 12 750W, what amp do you think would be good with either impedance however I decided to wire it?

By the looks of your post, you're focusing on adding a subwoofer to your car, and the most important piece of advice I can give is:
BUY ONLINE!

I have 2 JL W3v3's powered by a JL 500/1 series amp. I made my own box after finding the suggested dimensions online. Total cost was right around $550 about 3 years ago. You can get a really good setup for much less than that online Installation is fairly simple and there are plenty of How-To guides on the internet if you're unsure.

http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-Series-TNE212D-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I just helped a good friend of mine set that up and it sounds pretty damn good for the price.

One question, are you looking for sound production, or sound quality?

This is surprisingly a great setup for shaking your car on a budget. My friend has this in a 2001 Jeep Cherokee and it absolutely screams, and for $150, it looks like it's right in your price range, and you can get some better door speakers while you're at it, if you want. I agree though, the Terminators aren't that great at all.

http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/item/ev3-series

is this what you mean by e series?

Also, can you recommend me speakers for my car? I only see wiring/head unit/amp/Subs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_1294866011_t2_B00J8SV72A?th=1

4.5 rating with 1000 reviews, #1 best seller, 2 12inch w/box, good or no???

https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1216-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1200-Watt/dp/B00T3VMUD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1485393252&sr=1-1&keywords=hifonics+amp

Looks good ?

Disclaimer, I'm into very high end car audio, so this might be overkill.

I would not recommend using the cutout in the rear deck if it is available, which it isn't. Definitely no cutout there. You would be much better off putting a little ten inch sealed box in the trunk. Shouldn't take up much space at all, and will sound much better. You get into some weird issues putting aftermarket subwoofers in stock rear deck locations anyways, most subwoofers can't be run in an "infinite baffle" set up like that.


Here is a very decent system for under $600

Front Speakers $140


Subwoofer $130


Subwoofer Box $35


Amplifier $170


LOC $100


Budget a minimum of $200 for install.


This will be a killer system. Super clean and plenty loud. The four channel amp's two rear channels can be bridged to power the subwoofer. Trust me, you don't need rear speakers.

You can also install the subwoofer and amps where the spare tire goes, just get AAA.

Just trust me on this one you will absolutely love it SUBWOOFER

My Item much thanks

Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM

So basically my setup will be that box,

Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001

Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS

Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105

Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU

Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!

Thank you! Appreciate the suggestions greatly. I was able to find 2 12"s for $150 and from what I've heard these are pretty dang good. Would they work with that amp you've suggested?



MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zd5RCb37NTMWF

in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.

With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok

Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.

I would just go with

2- Dayton Audio DC130AS-8 5-1/4" Classic Shielded Woofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KRBGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mn2mDb9K9J8KS

1- Pyle 15" -inch Car Subwoofer - DVC Pro Audio Car Sub, 4 Ohm (PLPW15D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071HY3T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qo2mDb52EA19H

And 1- ONEU Audio Amplifier, Separated Subwoofer Volume Controlled Stereo Amplifier 2 x 45-Watt and 1x68W Sub Output, Super Bass 2.1 Channel Audio Power Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5D5ONB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pp2mDbER2AF63

If you have a sub you like then you can just use that one.
Just wire the speakers up to the top left and right channels respectively and then bridge the bottoms channels together for the sub.

[Subs] (http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2)

[Amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383005622&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-m500)

Wire

If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.

Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV


Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha

are these speakers you already have?

compact subs are a thing. yes, they're intended for use in a car, but the are self-powered and will work in your home with a good 12v PSU, and only need audio source. you're dealing with a tight space, compromises may be needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RFGY/ would fit under the couch.

​

or depending on budget, you can get a sunfire sub. their 8" is just about a 1 foot cube.

https://www.sunfire.com/product/8-dual-driver-200w-powered-sub-black-ash-SDS8

​

you can also use front-ported bookshelf speakers as your rear channels and put them IN the bookshelves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E35XGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BzzsoYCrL&ref=plSrch

Something like this? Maybe buy a wiring package + line out coverter with it?

I found this as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGW8GOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=51JPj2PGwYL&ref=plSrch

This is $50 cheaper and includes wiring, but I'm guessing it's cheaper in the amp? Is it more worth it to buy the more expensive system with the better amp?



Also, I noticed the subwoofers I linked only go down to 40hz. Will that be an issue for deep bass?

I have similar units from Alpline in brackets under my driver and passenger seats. They put out some great sound which you can literally feel without shaking the car and are hardly visible. It's a worthwhile direction for sure!

Yea, speakers are probably pretty worn out.

I'd go with the following:

Rear Door(may need adapter plate) - Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch 180-Watt High-Performance 2-Way Speakers (Pair) by Infinity http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BZFSYA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hy-7tb0GWF559

Front and Dash (I've got a set almost exactly the same, love em). You'll need 2 sets - Infinity Kappa 4"x6" 2-Way Loudspeakers-Pair (Black) by Infinity http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FP3IKW2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_KA-7tb1PQYKHT

Sub (This will need a box. I recommend building your own sealed box.) - Rockford Fosgate P2D4-12 Punch P2 DVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 400 Watts RMS 800 Watts Peak Subwoofer by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXIS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oK-7tb0ZS0FWV

And the amp - Kenwood Kac-8405 720-Watt 4/3/2-Channel Amplifier with Variable LPF/HPF by Kenwood http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038FNIBW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1N-7tb12DPXJD

Head Unit - Kenwood KDC-152 In-Dash MP3/WMA CD Receiver by Kenwood http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006KKS7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ZQ-7tb00XP2RM

I didn't actually count it up, but that should be pretty close to your budget.

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2

And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9L28AbQPQWH9M

Have you looked into the P3s or the more budget friendly P2s? Jl also makes some nice subwoofers like the w3s.

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

Closely following this because i was about to post the same exact thread. also this might be relevent. Found what looks like a nice package on amazon. take from that what you will because im neither an audio or car guy probably like yourself. https://www.amazon.com/TNE212D-12-Inch-Loaded-Subwoofers-Package/dp/B01BGW8GOM

With your amp being 500 watts, the Type S rated 500 watts, would match better and save you some money. It seems that sonicelectronix and crutchfield do not have the 15" Type S, but can be found on amazon for $175 https://www.amazon.com/SWS-15D4-Alpine-4-Ohm-Type-S-Subwoofer/dp/B0081JFX8G

​

I would also throw out here this 15" NVX sub for $100 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_105463_NVX-VSW154v2-VSW154-v2.html

​

For 10s

id say 2 of https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39835_JL-Audio-10W0v3-4-10-Subwoofer.html

​

or https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_89947_NVX-NSW102v2.html wired like this https://i.imgur.com/tSsnNLb.jpg

​

or https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_128073_Alpine-W10S4-10-Bass-Subwoofer.html

I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11051853&PID=7112509&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502901197&sr=1-3&keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!

Here they are:
Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12

The reviews are very good no matter where you look, crutchfield, Woofersetc, CA, Amazon, etc. Of course theres the random dumb-ass that blew them up in 10 mins because they obviously didn't know what they are doing, but that's inevitable with a lot of sales lol.

I somehow doubt Fosgate would build an enclosure for the subs that didn't sound/work well. But they do have a sealed enclosure for them as well. I like sealed enclosures, but I might prefer ported for the extra cooling it provides. Especially in the insane heat we have here in the summers, I am curious how they'd do in a sealed box in the trunk...

I'm also thinking I'll probably mount my amp under my seat if possible, or anywhere in the cab so it'll have air conditioning. A little less heat can't hurt.

I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.

Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.

A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.

I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.

I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.

Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).

No, it’s 2 ohms in parallel. The SA 12 you linked is 4 ohms per coil, so wired in parallel it’s 2 ohms and in series it’s 8 ohms. The SA12 D2 (this one) is able to be wired down to 1 ohms. So if you get the SA-12 D2, you need a 1 ohms stable amp (the R750 I recommended is perfect) But if you get the SA-12 D4, the JX1000/1 would be nice because the sundown can handle 1000 easy. Here’s some wiring diagrams for dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm subs: https://imgur.com/a/KVrt9FM/

The primary issue with the OEM subwoofers is the price. You can pay $3-500 for a new one, and they definitely aren't worth that unless you can find one used.

I installed a Kicker 11HS8 in my 2015 WRX under the passenger seat and it worked great! That car had the base audio system and just adding that sub made a big difference (although I later upgraded the other speakers too).

Rockford Punch

$64.95 dollar subwoofer and performs great. But if you want the true opinion from anyone who buys CarAV, a subwoofer is actually one of the most important items in the car audio world. It takes the stress off the stock speakers which makes them sound clearer. But then again, it all comes down to what you're musical preference is. Great build but if you want some bump in the trunk, you're gonna wanna have a budget higher than $75.

On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE

If you're trying to keep your budget in the vicinity of $500 I'd still seriously recommend that MTX RTL package. - it's truly not a compromise - it's a very well made amplifier, efficient and well built subs in the right enclosure with the right wiring for under 5 bills delivered to your door.

If you want to double that budget and get significantly louder without compromises, an MTX TH1200.1D is a well-built CEA-rated, no joke amplifier that has no difficulty delivering 1200+ watts at 1 ohm, a pair of the Sundown SA 12's wired to 1 ohm and an Obcon Freak box... if that doesn't rattle your brain into goo, you're not human :)

So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?

Alright. Yeah I can do 250. Was thinking of getting the wiring here:

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

And it looks like the D4 version is the same price!

http://amzn.com/B003ZWBG7Q

Thanks to all the people who were helpful, including the ones just trying to be helpful....

I found an old thread on a Volvo forum with someone having similar issues, he replaced it with a Pioneer unit, similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Ts-sw3002s4-1500-watt-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B00K9854T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464740744&sr=8-1&keywords=TS-SW3002S4

Just ordered it.

This one was only $115 and has a built-in amp. Add in some money/labor for a wiring kit and it's pretty cheap for how it sounds.

I'd recommend going for a real sub+amp combo, though.

I would probably say $200 max for the sub(s), amp, and box.

I listen to mostly EDM, and some rap, so would like a decent bit of bass boost, as its going into an 05 grand am that only has 4x6 and 6x9 speakers stock.

What about these ones, they're on prime sale for $120, which would leave me $80 for an amp.

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

I'm in the same position as you, and just posted about this yesterday. The set-up below is likely the best you're going to get on a budget, and it comes out to a few bucks shy of $400 after shipping (only one item isn't eligible for free super-saver shipping). This is what I'm going with, and I think I'll be more than happy with it.

Sub

Box

Amp

Wiring

Control Knob

Grille (not necessary, but smart)

0.95 cubic feet per sub or total? If its 0.95 cubic feet total then this pioneer shallow mount is your best bet. You can get two and wire them in parallel for a final impedance of 2 ohms. Use this matching pioneer amp and you've got an el cheapo system that should sound decent.

If i were you i would check out Pioneer Champion, Rockford Fosgate, or Dayton RSS.

The sundown is a strong spl sub from what i hear. I just haven't used them yet and cant give you an opinion on em other than people say that they need every bit of power you can give them. In the comments folks are saying there running 1400w rms to one, so think about that. The others i have. I am running two champions and they flex @ ~500rms each. I got them when they were on sale for like 90 a piece. Such a steal.

But to answer you question, imo, that box might not sound the best with the SA-12, or the Dayton Hos.

What's your budget? There are several shallow mount subwoofers on the market.

On the cheaper end is something like this Pioneer

On the higher end is something like this JL

Dear OP, I was in your same spot only 4 months ago and bought this powered amp. I am already looking into getting a real amp and sub to replace it. If you are serious about the sound in your car don't get this one, or at least get a better one than this.

I will say that it is way better than having 4 speakers without the sub, but some people will want more.

Hey I just got this in my trunk and after some tuning, I am very happy with it. It gets too loud so I have to turn it down, and they are cheap enough that you could buy one for each car.

If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.

Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.

I installed a small alpine one. It has the speaker and subwoofer in one enclosure and I installed under the passenger seat. If money isn’t an issue JL audio has a very nice subwoofer too just for wranglers.

Alpine


https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Electronics-PWE-S8-Restyle-Subwoofer/dp/B00OYGGMXK

JL Audio


https://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-jeep-wrangler-unlimited-18-up

Well here's the thing. I'm not an audiophile I just want the bass to rattle and be loud.

I found this MTX mentioned around the sub and was curious. I don't care about distinctive bass notes.

Is there any decent amps + wiring for $100?

So I went to a 2 others shop and they recommended


[Rockford Fosgate P1S4-12 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/) x2 -
Their price: $159.95 ea



[JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier]
(https://www.amazon.ca/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY) - Their price: $499.95

Bassworx RP12V - REF Vinyl 2-12" PORTE - Their price: $299.95


And

12W1V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W1v3 Series Subwoofer x2 - Their price $289 ea

JL Audio Class-D Monoblock RD500/1 1000W Peak RD Series 2-Ohm Stable Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier - Their price $498

Prefab box, forgot to take note of it.

I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.

Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:

Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106

4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782

Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7

MTX TNE212D 12" 1200W Dual Loaded Car Subwoofers + Box + Planet 1500W Amp + Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGW8GOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TEAdBbWY8WFZY

This is what I was talking about. This wouldn’t be good enough?

If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485881674&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=TSSWX2502

So I was thinking more on the install, would this guy fit in the spot where the Bose woofer would go, if I had one?

Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?

And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?

What amp and wiring kit should I get for 2 Rockford Fosgate P1-2x12's?
I'd like to stick with Rockford Fosgate brand

Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_-Gz3wbSAYP0BN

Head unit :some kenwood /pioneer that you like- $200ish

Front : [These ] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20992_JL-Audio-C2-650.html) - 250

Rears: [These] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com) -100

Sub: [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q)

Amp: [this] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64240_Kicker-CX600.1-12CX600.1.html)

Sound deadener : Stinger roadkill $100ish on sonic

I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.

I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.

Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bbSADb008NTF3?th=1&psc=1

I saw this sub to put in the back of the passengers seat. For anyone that knows about subs, is there a huge difference between the 10 in and the 8 inch? There’s a difference of 200 peak watt and 50 RMS watt between them, and idk which to choose

Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watt Slim Low Profile Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Ec6CbA39Q435

That’s what I ended up going with. I might end up going with a nicer setup in the future but I thought I’d see how this worked first.

Exactly no need to redo any wiring. and sub would be a great combo and relatively the same price as the powered sub but you have room to upgrade and it will be miles ahead in power and quality over the powered

Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC

Did you get this?

If so, you only need 400w rms, so you can get the pioneer gm-d8601. No line out adapter required, as it accept high level input. 500w at 2 ohm, enough, and a bit of headroom.

There are low profile subs similar to this which would fit under the seat. I can't speak from experience but it's something I wanted to try when I get some spare cash.

I have this in my Navara, it's mounted behind the rear seats and has a bit of punch. You'll be able to wire directly to your head unit.

http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Hideaway-Compact-Powered-Sub/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1396440666&sr=8-15&keywords=kicker+subwoofer+8%22

http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=54&productId=21471&sku=GMD8601

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YQM6GA30AQPL&coliid=I34PLZRDN6DOH0

I put one of these under the back seat along with a small amp. Made a night and day difference.

https://www.amazon.ca/PIONEER-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC

Great place to start. If you wanna go a little cheaper, this was my first setup

NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GQ.zzb4CFS7S5

This is the one I got and it's a combo, it won't blast your ears off but it gives it a more full sound.

Have you considered an under seat sub?

NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC

Might work?


Alternatively... if you only need the whole trunk 25% of the time maybe a small removable with a quick disconnect harness?

Sub. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC?keywords=pioneer+10"+truck+box&qid=1536956943&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_2

First off if youre wanting that kind of bass youre going to have to build a box to spec of whatever sub youre getting. Personally i would suggest 1 or 2 Sundown SA-12's
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637886&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+sa+12

and a proper amp http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1100-1D-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00BHSTTLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637961&sr=8-1&keywords=hifonics

Trying to understand all the differences. Would this sub work?

I'm assuming I'll use 2 out of 4 channels to power it.

Its a all in one unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powered-Subwoofer-Enclosure-HS8/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482809725&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+8+inch+subwoofer

http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Audio-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375125535&sr=1-1

Build a box to spec.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24975_Precision-Power-PPI-S850.1D.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_aw_sims_1/189-1619665-3315235?pi=SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EVZDW00?pc_redir=1405013338&robot_redir=1

Parts so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKHTMLA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AO3YTZ6BCMVCB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF5EQHK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0LUG30/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K9854T0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NYACAJP9I1IY

Yea this one!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=7551285&pid=1218851199236 that's the amp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2 those are the subs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UFHXIS/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T163PW/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?qid=1369962083&sr=8-20&pi=SL75

And

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1369962150&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

There you go.

I don't think you need to spend $200 on a sub if you're just adding frequency. If everything else is stock and you're not in a large SUV or van I would just go with a single 12". One of these two perhaps http://amzn.com/B0028AYIXK http://amzn.com/B004UFHXNI
But the sound quality and loudness will depend heavily on your amp - what do you have or have in mind to push the sub?

i'd have checked out a single 12" from sundown or something. kicker is sort of a shitty brand tbh plus you're partially paying for marketing in that price. a good 12" will always be better than 2 below average 10"

absolute tank https://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E5D1EH8CWXTGAR0863EF

>Just go to Sonic Electronixs ( or any other car audio websites new people look at ) and look up brands most veterans in the industry stand by.

99% of people looking to put something in their car don't even do that. They go to Amazon and go with highly rated garbage. Seriously 76% of the 95 reviews are 5 stars.

Here are a list of prices of the Sundown SA 12 for OP

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-sa-12-750w-sa-series.html $214

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Z66Dyb2V7NXJB $214


http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9260-sa-12-d4-sundown-audio-12-600w-dual-4-ohm-sa-series-subwoofer.html $214


http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-12-600w-sa-series/ $174 Subs ordered from here may have a defect. This is Sundown bad stock store. Everything on this site will work fine but may have scuffs etc


http://www.down4soundshop.com/sa-series-12/ $214

Alpine Type R fits in the price range. For a little bit over $200 you can go Sundown SA-12 . I’ve got one of these on 1500 watts in about 3 cu ft box and it pounds hard!

I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used

BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0

Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE

My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so

Hope this helps a little

Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.

Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!

Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:

amp

front speakers



subs

rear speakers

wiring:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...

Accessories:

• Ford ST Heavy Duty Floor Mats (I live in a snowy climate)
  
• Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12in Subwoofer (600w RMS) w/ Rockford Fosgate Prime Amplifier(Class-D 1200w) + Speaker to RCA converter
  
• no-pistons Dead Pedal, Battery Tie Down and Gas Pedal Spacer (not sure if still available but I have access to a water jet and a machine shop so I might make my own)
  
• Rally Armour Mud Flaps (helps with the salt and grit from plow trucks in the winter)
  
• Tow Hitch + Cobb Exhaust Hanger Kit
  
  Step 1:
  
  
• Cobb AP with Stratified tune
  
• Green drop-in filter
  
  Step 2:
  
  
• Cp-e RMM
  
• Boomba Transmission Adapter Plate (short-shift)
  
• Boomba Transmission Cable Bracket Bushings
  
  Step 3:
  
  
• Cp-e Front Mount Intercooler w/ Stratified tune
  
• Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers
  
  Step 4: (all maybes)
  
  
• Turbo-back Exhast (not sure which yet)
  
• Cp-e Ram Air Box
  
• Velossatech Ram Air Intake
  

I replaced all the speakers in mine and it was seriously lacking bass until I put in a shallow sub. Got this sub and an amp off Craigslist. Did the trick. Gotta go for a shallow mount sub. Trunk space is limited for one in a hatch.

So with these subs, where would I go to get a box? And since I'm an idiot, is that price for both subs or just one? And I'm not sure what you mean by, "tuned to the low 30's". Finally, if I'm getting two 750w speakers, doesn't that mean I should go for a 1500w amp?

I'm looking at a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport which has this dash. Looking to use this Pioneer head unit with this Metra dash kit. There's adapters so that I can keep the factory usb port and steering wheel controls. I'll probably spend the extra money buying the head unit from crutchfield for their customer support in case I need it. For speakers, I'm thinking Infinity Kappa's. I might fiberglass some tweeter pods for the sails, but if I'm feeling lazy, I'll just surface mount them to the stock sails. Gonna ignore the dash corners entirely (pretty bad speaker placement really, you can make it work with a dsp, but I don't want to spend that much....yet). I might go for a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure and am thinking about this pre-made box, but I also have access to a wood shop, so I might build my own sub enclosure. I haven't decided on amps on yet, but Rockford has a promotion where you buy a dual amp wiring kit and get 25% off an amp on crutchfield. Haven't done the math yet to know if I'd actually be saving money versus just buying from Amazon though.

You need either one dual 4 ohm sub or two 4 ohm single voice subs both ran in parallel and that will get you to two ohms.

The thing is though and no one has told you this so far, do not waste your money on that sub. The amp is a little suspect, I don't think for that money it's going to actually deliver 500 watts but the sub is a 100% waste of your money.

If it takes time to save more money, do that. Do it right. You will be pissed off that you wasted your money on a half ass solution and even more pissed off when you find out no one will even give you half what you paid for it originally.

Pinch your pennies, sell your blood, blow sailors down by the dock but whatever you do don't waste your money on that pioneer sub.

http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/1265900/main/tsw310d4.jpg That is the back of it, the black part you see isn't the magnet, thats just plastic they molded to look like a magnet. The red circle you see is the actual magnet, it looks more like this http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/UFYAAOSwDN1UTsdL/$_57.JPG