(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best cat 6 ethernet cables

For CAINE, standard USB3.0 2.5" external HDDs would be fine. 2.5" drives so that you don't need to find additional power.
The older computer won't have USB3.0.

Anything stored on a server, unless newly updated, won't have USB3.0. Consider a laptop and doing some sort of network gigabit file transfer instead for the PST/email files. Gigabit vs USB2.0...gigabit wins hand down. Companies / enterprises have great networks and fast server storage so network is the way to go. Consider a crossover cable, might be necessary for direct server to laptop transfer, but better yet - get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-Cat6-Crossover-Adapter/dp/B00030BYJI
Wrap everything up in a logical image file (AD1 - FTK Imager).
Anything imaged using DD - create a compress E01 of it afterwards to save space and time later.
Get a USB3.0 Hardware write blocker for Thumb drives - then attach any USB card reader to it for other types. You can then use one of these as well for Hard Drives - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-External-Docking-Station-Drives/dp/B00U8KSLA8/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504501191&sr=1-8&keywords=sata+hard+drive. Might be able to find something cheaper.
Tableau is a popular brand, expensive: https://www.forensiccomputers.com/tableau-t8u.html
Wibitech as well: https://www.cru-inc.com/products/wiebetech/usb-3-0-writeblocker/

With boot disks/bootable thumb drives - their equipment can do the work. Hardware write blocker now means you need a laptop to do on scene acquisition so that bumps your cost up. Make multiple disks and thumb drives - and you can do multiple things at once as opposed to a single laptop.

The "weighty" controls are exactly what make DD tick for me (you can time your drifts to dodge red shells, as opposed to red shells immediately hitting walls in MK64). I can agree that the "tier list" of characters and karts is annoying (light karts are super OP), but it's not like that wasn't also an issue in MK64 (who can pick Yoshi first?) For me, though, the best Mario Kart experience in the land is still the 8-player mode from Double Dash. Characters and karts are assigned randomly each race, so it evens the playing field a bit, and the item balance was decent enough to make most races a photo-finish. If you can find two computers with ethernet ports, two USB-gamecube adapters, 8 controllers, and one of these, I highly recommend going through the setup to get BBA emulation working in Dolphin - it works perfectly once you get connected. I really hope MK8D can recreate that frenzied 8-player experience on the Switch (without requiring too many Switches to do it, a la MK7).

I suggest that you just replace everything since it will save you the headaches... the cable that runs ease that I suggest that pretty good quality is from startech. Any cable you get you want at least CMR rated Startech pulls nice and doesn't easily snag. Cables on amazon from Truecable on Amazon are ok, but I think snag too easily so it's frustrating to work with if you are doing a lot of runs. I suggest you don't go cheap on wires since you are going to be putting drywall. Also note Cat6 can only run 10Gbe on very short runs. You'll need Cat6A for longer runs 10Gbe. Good idea to use conduit when doing main runs from downstairs to upstairs. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-1000-Solid-Riser-Cable/dp/B00FDRTOPM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=startech+cat6+spool&qid=1571755275&sr=8-2

WOW, That's one big router :D.

I would run a cable up to the attic and down into your moms room. You would spend about $20-40 in cables and I am sure you can get a punch down tool for cheap or borrow one.

If you don't want to mess with making your own cables you can use This

Just buy two of them one for your room and one for your moms room. You can either have one long cable that goes from your room to your moms room or you can (What I would suggest) is get a switch in your attic and run the cable from your wall to the switch and from the switch to your moms rooms wall. Have short 2-4' cables that go from the wall to the computer/router This why you can always add more drops and connect them up to the switch in the attic.

100' cables are cheap

best of luck on this adventure and I hope everything works out for you.

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

The HDMI extender will likely use one of the cat6 cables. It may have terminals for 1 cat6 (8 conductors) cable on a terminal strip, or it may have an 8p8c socket to receive an RJ-45 connector.

If it has an RJ-45 socket, terminate one of the cat6 cables using an RJ-45 connector on each end appropriate to the conductor type (stranded like speaker wire vs. solid like Romex). The conductor type will be written on the cable jacket, or will be visible if you strip a bit of insulator from one of the eight conductors inside. You'll need a crimping tool. Using the wrong type of RJ-45 connector (solid vs stranded) may lead to reliability issues.

The order of the solid/striped coloured conductors matters. You'll probably want to terminate the cable as a straight through ethernet cable (pick one of the two standards, T-568A or T-568B and stick with it), but check the extender's manual to see if it expects something odd, like a cross-over cable. If the extender did not come with a printed manual, Google the model number for a manual for configuration and other details.

One of the two parts of the extender might be labelled as needing to be connected to the HDMI source (your receiver in the closet), even though HDMI is supposed to be bi-directional. The extender ends will likely also need power.

In your closet, connect the receiver to the transmitting end of the extender using an HDMI cable of the required specifications. Behind your TV, connect the TV to the receiving end of the extender using another HDMI cable.

The other cat6 cable will be to deliver Internet access to your TV via ethernet to your wired home network. Terminate each end using an RJ-45 connector as above, as a straight through ethernet cable. Connect the TV end to the TV, and the other end to your broadband router, DSL/cable modem, or network switch. The broadband router might be located in a different area of your home (through some in-wall cat6). There may be a network switch in your closet which also distributes Internet access to your receiver, Xbox, etc. If your TV has Wi-Fi and your signal is strong, you may not need to use this second ethernet cable for smart TV functions, but a wired connection tends to be more reliable than a wireless connection.

I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:

The cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/

The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6

The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/

This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/

Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18

Or surface mount boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/

You could even find a small patch panel.

Honestly, on a 50ft run even cat5e would be fine. Save your money, you will not really benefit anything. So long as you arn't running it along side any power lines you wont see a difference. You will be able to link at 1gig on both types of wire in this scenario, and the limitations arnt until ~300ft. So you are fine either way. You may even consider just buying a 50/75ft cable and snipping the ends off if you plan to terminate them to keystone jacks in the wall. Keep in mind, if you get the spools, you will need a crimping tool/ends as well. And if you plan to terminate into a wall jack youll need a keystone jack, keystone plate, and punch down tool.

75ft cable: https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Networking-Ethernet-Patch-Router/dp/B01M230BEH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499797322&sr=8-3&keywords=cat5e+75+feet


cat5e: https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V013/dp/B00O82K74K/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499797086&sr=1-14&keywords=cat5e+cable


But if you insist on cat6, this will work fine: https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-29776-250-SolidRun-Content/dp/B00CH4EVY8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499797175&sr=8-2&keywords=cat6+250ft




Source: Like 30 miles of all types of cables ran?

OK well this is a thing I know about.

There are 3 different kinds of ends.

Passthrough ends - cat6 ends with 3 pieces - standard ends.

I think the cat6 ends with 3 pieces are the best. They are the easiest to use and most secure. But you have to know how the 3 pieces go together. If you do it wrong this end is the worst end to pick. They may be called cat6 ends but they still work great on cat5 wire. These ends are also easy to double check before you crimp it. You could also add a boot to it.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01K9Z3ZWA/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3524794222&pd_rd_wg=JH2CT&pf_rd_r=63BH58JNRB9JZTVK0W43&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01K9Z3ZWA&pd_rd_w=1vhgz&pf_rd_i=cat6+ends&pd_rd_r=c9060548-6a32-466d-848f-009b01495c95&ie=UTF8&qid=1521916206&sr=3

The "slow-motion" is just servers not keeping up. I'm not sure if its a source engine feature or they are cleverly adjusting "host_timescale" when they detect it can't keep up (That var can be adjusted in real time for everyone. I used to have tons of fun in TeamFortress2 with friends playing on timescale 10 and then switching to timescale 0.1 at random with a key bind)

Note that unplugging the RJ-45 itself can lead to the Console instantly telling the game "Internet changed" and it might immediately force a disconnect. Best way to do it is unplugging the router's power.

Regarding choosing servers, on PC we also have to be disconnected, it seems there's no "direct" way to change server.

Sounds - I heard there are sound issues on consoles where sounds aren't being played? I saw many threads about that, maybe related. I can always understand what is shooting me just by sound (unless 2 people are shooting at the same time). Audio shouldn't be lost.

Item
I have the best girlfriend I could ever hope for and she makes so unbelievably happy! :)

can you use stranded cable in a jack like that? seems like the contact just shreds the filaments rather than grabbing the solid core wires. If I had to work with that cable I'd probably terminate it rj45 and go with keystone couplers and wall plates like this: https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-5-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-White/dp/B0116T7XMQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543277963&sr=1-8&keywords=keystone+jack little easier and more consistent

What I've been doing is getting to everyone I can before the lan and setting up all the games for them before the lan. Sometimes you can't get to everyone, in that case send them a flash drive with all the files they need and ask that they bring it back to the lan. Setup takes at least 2 hours if not prepared! DON'T use wifi! Run ethernet cables to every station. When purchasing cables, make sure they support gigabit! I really like multiple multiple 5-8 port hubs, one for each table. Take a look at these, it's worth the purchase!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LS2HM0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIPI9XQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N99BBC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah you can do that if you want, but it's going to hit you in the wallet. Plus, you might get frustrated when you have a ton of excess on some runs that you'll have to wind up and get out of your way.

Terminating is a bummer. But a couple things can make it easier. For one, don't just terminate your home runs with rj45 ends and plug directly into your switch. Bring everything to a patch panel and terminate with punchdown keystones. You use a punchdown tool to connect them and it's WAY easier than terminating a male connector.

Then you can run short patch cables from the panel to your switch.

You can also use punchdown keystones at your drops on the other end of your runs.

When you DO have to terminate a male connector, use the two-piece style. You slide a tiny plastic collar over the wires that holds them steady and in order, then you slide that into the connector and crimp. So much easier.

Cheers.

This is the line pull I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026TA6WK

along with this cable lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WTN3I0

Absolutely run the cables before committing the concrete. Also seal the PVC conduit joins with PVC cement, otherwise they will eventually become waterlogged. If you haven't already purchased the Cat6, I recommend shielded outdoor-rated direct-burial cable, like this.

I also suggest running some low-voltage cables along with the Cat6, so you can power external IR illuminators like these, which are way better than the IR LEDs in the cameras, and also avoid insects, fog, and dust from triggering motion alerts at night.

Good luck!

Well, first of all thank you for answering, i have settled down on my troubleshooting solution and settled on buying Monoprice Cat 5e Bare Copper and see how it goes. How is the quality of monoprice ethernet in general ? I wish I made the right move this time...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VPLSE0/?coliid=I3JDS065877FNG&colid=1RIBTJFCEX3PN&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Saw this on Slickdeals, hopefully it helps you all as much as it does me! While your at it, change your amazon smile to the EFF to help fight for net neutrality!



25' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$4.58 w/ promo code RR99ROJL

https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B018BCJKE0/



50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.09 w/ promo code CQTGWYYH

https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/



100' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$10.48 w/ promo code TWEGP5DO
https://smile.amazon.com/Flat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Clips/dp/B00WD017BG/





50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$6.09 w/ promo code H2CHE27H
https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-Black-Connectors/dp/B00WD017FW/




6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$5.96 w/ promo code BW7VDF6M
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGI0O




6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$5.96 w/ promo code MDJ5FGIM
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGKQ6


***

3-Pack 6' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.34 w/ promo code 89QBRPS2
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGRPU

The resistance you will have to google, and yes it does but it also depends on material as well. The copper over the aluminum may adjust the resistance to what copper would be when you stick a meter on the outside of it. And wether or not you want solid core or stranded has to do with what the cable will be doing, hence are you installing it in conduit and it’s never going to be touched again then go with solid core. If you’re going to be moving the cable around a ton use stranded core. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008I8AH4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523410720&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=monoprice+cat6&dpPl=1&dpID=41u6E9bL6LL&ref=plSrch you just need to determine if you need solid or stranded core wire

I got 1000ft of Cat6 off Amazon with some crimpers and other stuff for ~80 shipped free with Prime I'd look into that. It seems cheap but I get great speeds on my home network with ~20 drops and a lot of them pass over electric runs and lights.
edit 1000ft cat6 for $65 off Amazon

> CCA

I did a 15 seconds search to find that. Good point.

Still less than his friend price:

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500MHz-Ethernet-108102/dp/B008I8AH4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418339698&sr=8-1&keywords=solid+copper+cat+6

I wired my basement several years ago, and bought a 1000 ft roll for $150 at home depot (this was in 2008 or 2009). It's still going strong, and I wired my new house with it too (that is, I added wires to a few key points in the existing house, I didn't wire the entire thing). It's kinda hard to tell how much is left in the spool with the boxes they come in.

Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

Fun note: I've had some success with a cat 5 - usb extender. I run a 25ft HDMI cable down to my HDTV when my lady's out, and solve the controller issue with the above device- and my car 5 cable is significantly longer than my HDMI cord.

SIENOC 150Ft USB 2.0 to RJ45 Lan Extension Extender Adapter Over Cat5/Cat5e /Cat6 Cable Color Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENH9CSC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Grey belt

Good side zip boot option for tucking pants into

Drop leg holster

Safe option for pistol for drop leg

Jumper cable clamps

Black Cat5e cable. Strip the insulation off a bit of each end like on the bag

I think that's most every thing I could see in the pictures of him I found. Let me know if I missed something and have fun!

Edit: Ebay link for maroon messenger bag

About $350 for everything I linked depending on shipping and if you have free Amazon prime 2 day shipping

You have a 100FT cat5 cable which is significantly slower than a cat6 cable. You won't find a wireless card to give you what you want especially from 2 floors below. Many things can interfere with Wi-Fi. If you really are set on going to Wi-Fi you need to get a better router first. Which for the speeds you want is going to cost over $100 if not over $200. But you're still going to get interference and the ping is still gonna be around 100Ms. Your best bet is to get a cat6 cable and some cable covers. Basically what you're asking for isn't possible without spending a significant amount of money. Even if you did shell out the $500 you're still probably going to get some interference.

Amazon basics is great for this kind of stuff, and this is a Cat6 Ethernet cable capable of higher speeds when paired with the right equipment (will work just find with standard router/modem/switch). $11.

AmazonBasics RJ45 Cat-6 Ethernet Patch Cable - 50 Feet (15.2 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134QJH4G/

Edit: wording

Although i liked my provided eero network cables i ended up using these which worked out wonderfully.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable White 3 ft ( 6 Pack ) - Flat Internet Network Cable - Jadaol Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable Short - Cat6 Computer Lan Cable With Snagless RJ45 Connectors - 3 feet White ( 6 Pack ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGRPU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Re0fAb879WQVT

Dont remeber if i bought them at Amazon or monoprice. I found that eero' s ethernet cables were a bit stiff for some applications.

I really don't think you need to spend the extra money on Plenum, and its a good chance the space isn't even plenum. To check, find a cold air return grill, and see if their is a duct connected to it. Working in houses for 20 years, and only have ran into one house that has a plenum space.

I would really recommend running bulk cable, and punching down female fittings on both side, then use short per-made jumpers for the connections.

If you really just want to run per-made cable the whole length; run 2 of these and same money.

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

• USG $110
  
• Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  
• TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  
• 1000' cat 5e $85
  
• 24 port patch panel $19
  
  If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.

All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.

Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.

I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.

The only alternatives are to use a WiFi adapter (please god no) or move your pc. Your best option is to get a long ethernet cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol%C2%AE-Network-internet-computer/dp/B00WD017FW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1469777024&sr=1-4&keywords=50foot+ethernet+cable

I have found Amazon to be cheaper than monoprice for cables (I don't buy in bulk though, just one cable at a time). I bought this ethernet cable for $7.80 10 months ago (it's $10 now) and if you buy $25 worth of stuff you can get free shipping (if you don't have Amazon prime). Where monoprice would charge me after shipping $22 for a similar 100ft cable.

It's hardware. Something like this. It requires a dedicated, uninterrupted run of Ethernet for itself. You plug one into your computer, one into the device, and run an Ethernet cable between them.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Snagless-Ethernet/dp/B00BIPI9XQ


Slimline ethernet cables tend to be a bit nicer to work with.


Hard to know what someones definition of "sleek" is though.


Edit: Or something like this for a grand:


https://www.audioquest.com/cables/digital-cables/rj-e-ethernet/diamond

You don't need anything fancy. If you want to terminate the cable yourself (Better for custom length runs) just standard CAT6 UTP is good here is a link to 250' of cable. Here is a pre-made 50' CAT6 cable, though if you're running a cable through the ceiling it would be alot safer to make your own cable. The only reason to get shielded twisted pairs (STP) is if you're going to be running a lot of cables next to each other or running cables in a place with lots of interference, above fluorescent lights for example. Be careful you don't underestimate the distance, you'll really regret it when you come up 5' short.

What's your internet service that provides an direct ethernet connection? Is it FiOS?

You should have a direct connection from your ISP to the router, which you could do by using the cabling in your house. If you need to connect cables together you should use one of these instead of a switch.

Do you need wired LAN connections in the basement too?

Photos would help.

I will always recommend wired connection for anything that doesn't move such as desktop PCs and most of the equipment in modern home entertainment systems.

You can get 100s of feet of ethernet for pretty cheap as well as a crimper and ends. Depending on how much they've opened up the walls you may not benefit much from doing it at the same time the wiring is being done because you don't want to run low voltage in the same bay(space between two studs) as power lines.

Per 1000ft, the cabling shouldn't even be that much if you did it yourself.

Cat 5e
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V001-Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422498&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+5e+spool

Cat 6
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V004-Cat6-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422309&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+6+spool

That seems a bit excessive to me in terms of per run based on the cabling alone as the work boxes, face plates and jacks don't even cost that much. Yeah I understand the contractor needs to make money. Is the contractor putting in a patch panel as well?

Hello, Goodbye~

I would be grateful for this http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-Gigabit-WNDR3700/dp/B002HWRJY4/ref=cm_syf_dtl_top_3

and one of these http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Premium-UltraFlat-Patch/dp/B0057XC404/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369848132&sr=1-1&keywords=20ft+cat+6

Yes, there are some rather significant differences between CAT5 and CAT7, but effectively, the higher the number, the faster/better/newer the cable is, so I would get the highest one you can afford, in order to "future proof" the setup, in case you upgrade other things in the future that may be able to make use of the higher speed CAT cable.

Look for an outdoor-rated CAT cable. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8 (though likely not QUITE so long haha)

Also make sure you get proper cable clips that won't squash or otherwise damage the cables, as even a tiny pinch can theoretically damage the tiny copper cables inside, thereby rendering the whole thing useless. Things like these tend to work very well: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/hellermanntyton/211-60003/70400243/

Note: I am in no way recommending those specific products, merely showing you what kinds of things are out there for what you're trying to do.

Aluminum has lower ductility, and suffers from significant fatigue breaks with repeated bending. This means a greater chance of it breaking while being pulled and increased likelihood of problems at termination points.

Material cost is a minority of the total expense; labor costs are usually much higher. Considering how difficult it is to rewire something in the walls, it's a better idea to stick with copper.

I'm not sure where you're shopping, but (for example) you can get a thousand foot box of solid UTP riser-rated Cat6 for $90 + shipping at Monoprice. If you don't like Monoprice you can get StarTech or Cables2Go for $125 and $140 respectively.

I suggest just buying a long cable (you can get a 100' CAT 6 cable from Amazon for $10) and comparing the network diagnostics on the box directly.

You could even download something on wireless, delete it, then re-download over wired.

Given the environmental factors like interference and composition of your wall, no one can give you a 100% accurate answer. Test it yourself.

Amazon has good deals on high quality cables. I'm using the 35' version.

I happen to be on the same end of the house they stuffed the router, but I dont have wifi built into my desktop.

If 200' still isn't enough, you can buy cat6 cable in bulk. Just need to install the ends.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Wii-Port/dp/B003XWD1G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1397853439&sr=1-1&keywords=wii+ethernet+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Ethernet-Cable-CAT6-30-48/dp/B000QZ0036/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397853515&sr=1-2&keywords=cat6+cable

boom fast internet.

> 3-Pack 6' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White) $6.34 w/ promo code 89QBRPS2 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGRPU

This one is actually a 6-Pack of 3'

How long do you need OP? Here's up to 50 ft

Under $100. I was looking at monoprice Luxe HDMI and USB 2.0 extender

I did not know that. The current cable here was what I was going to get. Then just was going to cut the ends of it.

Found this Sewell Direct SolidRun Cat6 Bulk Cable, UTP, CM, 23 AWG, High Copper Content CCA 250ft for $36.

I added a pack of 100x CAT6 connectors, a Klein Tools Crimper/Stripper/Cutter, and went ahead and added a Network Lan Cable Tester Test Tool as well.

CAT-6 and i'm still getting 20 down.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-Feet-15-2-Meters/dp/B0134QJH4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501710826&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+6+50+ft

You just need a long ethernet cable running from your Genexis Tundra Titanium to the ethernet port on your computer. Quake Live over WiFi isn't recommended.

http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Ethernet-Cable-CAT6-30-48/dp/B000QZ0036

Sorry [I lied] (http://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-ETHERNET-NETWORK-INTERNET/dp/B002HK8TE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344804754&sr=8-1&keywords=100ft+cat6). It is around 14 dollars for cat6. Had it been just cat5 it would be around 10 or less.

$150-180 +Tax (if Prime) to DIY
You need a spool of cat 5e/6, 6 Keystone jacks, 3+ Faceplates, some single and double gang brackets and a few cheap tools.

The brackets are what goes into the dry wall so the face plates have something to screw into.
Single / Double Gang is the size of the bracket.
Single gand = the size of a box for 1 outlet.
Double Gang = The size of a box for 2 outlets (side by side)

Tools: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Portable-Ethernet-Crimping-Detector/dp/B01JU2XERY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1497913897&sr=8-27&keywords=cat+5+punch+down

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-000ft-Cat-6-VIVO/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1497914001&sr=1-2&keywords=1000+ft+cat6&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

Keystones: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914060&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+6+keystone+jack

FacePlates (Dual): https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-2-Port-White/dp/B0722K3K8R/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914110&sr=8-12&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Note* You are going to be under the house or in the attic. The work sucks but its way worse going in there for a 2nd time to run 1 extra wire... do yourself a favor... if you are running 1 length to a room.... run 2.

Faceplates (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Port-Keystone-Faceplate-Dual-White/dp/B004FUWY3C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914196&sr=8-7&keywords=keystone+faceplates

Low Voltage Bracket (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWHK6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double+gang+low+voltage+wall+plate

[BUY 3 of these] Low Voltage Bracket (Single Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double%2Bgang%2Blow%2Bvoltage%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1

[EXTRA]
This is not necessary but super helpful for drilling through studs you cants see. Also keeps you from cutting more holes in the drywall than necessary. If you are done drilling holes, sell it on Craigslist for @ afterwards.
Stud Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLGT4GI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1