First things first - the cable modem and the wifi router are two completely separate things. In your specific case, the two things are integrated in one device - but I highly recommend not doing so.

Comcast charges a ridiculous amount of money for the "modem rental". Are you renting your modem/router from Comcast? If so, I highly recommend buying your own cable modem and wifi router. You will recoup the cost in just a few months from the rental savings. I'm saying this from personal experience - after spending 3 times the cost of the modem for just the rental fees.

The cable modem is a device which connects to your Comcast cable and lets you connect your other home devices to the modem. Even the cheapest most basic DOCSIS3 modem will support speeds that far surpass the actual internet speed you will buy from Comcast - and these are super reliable devices - so just buy the cheapest.

For example, this Arris refurbished model is available for $30. Non refurbished is $50 - although refurbished is honestly just fine. Consider that I was paying 8 bucks a month for the modem rental while I could have bought my modem outright for 30 bucks.

Now for the wifi router. This is mostly the real reason why people complain of poor internet speeds. And often this is because of poor wifi coverage to begin with - i.e. the wifi signal is simply not strong enough in all your rooms. As someone else said, the best thing you can do is to place your wifi router high up and in a central location that has the best "line of sight" to most rooms. Typically a central passageway, mounted high up on the wall. You would connect to your cable modem with an ethernet cable, by the way.

In my case, upgrading to a better more powerful wifi router with 4 antennas (from 2) made a huge difference. From my experience, I can recommend this Asus model which has 4 antennas and costs $67. There are many other models you can research and buy. It has run non-stop for over a year without requiring a reboot or without any of the flakiness I had with my other router that would randomly shut down or reboot itself. Wirecutter recommends TPLink Archer C7 which also costs $70 and they say it has really good coverage. Avoid the more expensive "802.11 AC" routers. This AC technology is great but is honestly overkill for your needs, just as you don't need to buy some expensive cable modem.

By the way, you can also download an app on your phone that will tell you how good your wifi coverage is in different parts of your house or establishment. Just search for "wifi coverage" or "wifi analyzer" in your app store. As someone also said, there are some advanced tweaks you can do. See this article, if you are so inclined.

Lastly, besides your wifi signal coverage and strength and quality of wifi router, your internet connection itself needs to be reasonably fast to support multiple users. Nowadays, everyone is streaming videos and such on their smartphones so everyone "needs" high bandwidth or fast internet. And all these multiple videos streaming quickly eat up your internet connection's bandwidth. What is interesting is that there isn't that much of a price difference between the different Comcast options. Or to put it another way, there is no $40 or $50 option at all. 25mbps is quite low to be honest - at least when multiple people hammering away at your internet. It is not horrible or anything - in fact it is perfectly decent for average home use - it is just not blazingly fast. There is a $10 difference between 25mbps and 100mbps, and a $3 jump to 200mbps. So if you don't mind the extra $13, you are in serious blazing fast territory. Consider that Netflix takes about 3-10mbps, so you can imagine that 200mbps will give you a lot of room and speed even with multiple users logged in and streaming high quality video. Else, you can start with 25mbps after you make all the other improvements to your setup, see how it goes. Then you can easily upgrade to 200mbps if needed.

It's a hair more complex. Most 20-something tech geeks should be fine. If you're the guy (or gal) that people go to for tech help you'll probably be fine. If you're a 60-something that is apprehensive about breaking things, consider something easier.
---------

Most consumer routers have hardware accelerated Network Address Translation enabled by default. The ERX originally didn't have that feature (the hardware was there but the software wasn't written) but they added it in later. Same idea for IPSEC.

---------

So if you can run wire that's the best - it can even be done in an aesthetically mild way.

https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Clips/dp/B00WD017BG

Similarly you can get a MoCA 2.0 adapter to use existing in-place coaxial cabling

------

If you can't run wire then you can try to get a single overengineered 3x3 or 4x4 wireless access point - just know that power output is limited by law in the US/EU/Japan/Australia so you won't get nearly as much of a benefit as you'd think. Think of it as getting one big sprinkler to cover a yard instead of getting the right number of smaller sprinklers and doing it right.


--------



> I'm guessing the AC Lite would be a major improvement in terms of these as compared to consumer boxes like C7 or Nighthawk.

Generally more reliable but lower performance. The Ubiquiti stuff is designed to be rock solid STABLE with OK performance. Imagine having a hotel with one AP every 30 feet down a hallway and there's no on site support. You pretty much just need to have good enough performance a guest won't complain and it needs to be reliable enough that you can leave it alone for the next 5 years.

Linus covers this fairly well. Linus and Wendell from level1tech (split from teksyndicate) both love this stuff. Note that these guys are technerds and I have the feeling they're doing alright on income. (this is a 4 year old video but the ideas are similar, just the newer units support wireless AC)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zw0TKDuv_g4


TWO AC Lites in strategic locations (or an AC Lite and a TP-Link Archer C7 or a C7 + a TP-Link EA225 Access point) will give a better overall user experience in a ~1500-2000 sq. ft. unit than any single wireless router can provide (and you can add in more if you have a bigger place). Wireless performance drops like a rock with distance (imagine signal strength going down to 1/4th every time you double the distance - so going from 20 feet to 40 feet takes you from 100mbps to 25mbps and going out to 80 feet would take you to 6mbps assuming things like walls don't exist and you don't have neighbors with their own wifi units producing signal interference - numbers are illustrative only).

Ok I read your post. Wireless can work, but it still needs power or batteries. I'm not a fan of batteries. I like direct power usually Power Over Ethernet that comes from the NVR (DVR). Plug the NVR into a battery backup and you'll still record if someone cuts power at least for a bit depending on the size of the battery back up. Mine stays up for an hour and it's plugged into a $60 battery backup.

How do you spread them through the house. You have some options.

1: Drag the network cables down the hall to the camera and plug in. (ghetto and ugly).

2: Enjoy the agony of attic crawls and do line drops to each camera. Might not be as uncomfortable or difficult as my install but I'm in Florida and I did my install in 90+f weather. Oh and the contractor decided that having random vaulted ceiling vertical drops was a great idea. Think I lost 10lbs in sweat.

3: Do option 1, use some flat Ethernet cable similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=90PBMQPF3NV5GT02Y14E

There is even thinner stuff. You can pull carpet to hide it, paint over it, just run it along base boards, get conduit whatever you decide.

Keep in mind some boxed systems utilize proprietary connections at the camera that make it appear its not your normal Ethernet cable. For the most part rest assured you can cut most of these and if you know how to crimp an RJ45 cable you can extend the cable via a female to female connector although I'd strongly suggest just getting cable long enough here's what the connector looks liks: https://www.amazon.com/RJ45-Ethernet-cable-connector-Almond/dp/B000BSLW8U

I've done about 50 installs for clients and friends (I don't advertise this but after 15 years of working in the IT industry and generally being a geek they become friends, ask and I oblige).

You mentioned you don't have a whole lotta money to spend. I already commented once. Stay away from Zmodo. Garbage.

I despise wifi unless its an impossible situation to install. I work and have been in the IT field for 17 years or so. WiFi is an amazing technology but for cameras. I'll pass with the exception of areas where drilling holes in the ceiling/wall (Historic homes for example) just doesn't make sense. I prefer hard wire reliability. PITA sometimes to install but once the lines there you're good to go regardless if you decide to upgrade in the future. Plus since you have hard wires ran if you wanna drop a hard wire in another room. Cut cable, crimp RJ45 ends on each side. Through a network switch in between and now you had hardwire where you had slow or spotty wifi :)

I find it really silly your hoa doesn't allow cameras. My HOA loves that I have cameras. I've been able to help return a truck full of Christmas presents, blast someone stealing political signs, caught a domestic violence (yea..... I actually live in a wonderful neighborhood but shit happens).

Personally when it comes to protecting, preserving, and doing everything in my power to look after my assets I'd tell my HOA to kiss my ass. They'd probably never even notice the cameras if you use bullet cams outside. So small unless you have those rubberneck type neighbors.

Anywho. Yea read the Amazon description. Some of them you have to pull 4-8 screws and plop a hard drive in. Read the reviews of the systems in your budget. Not just the good stuff, a lot of them are there as positive because vendors will send you a free wifi camera, or some other crap to write it. I admit I did it for Zmodo. Funny thing.... The day the wifi "gift" came in I lost the ability to connect to my system from a computer. Only direct or via mobile app. They're "seeking a fix".... For 3 months....

Any modern DVR/NVR has motion detection and most have the ability to draw a box to blank and area on the video to say to the DVR/NVR (hey ignore motion here) from the camera that may have constant motion (A fan, a highway, TV, etc) to save on drive space and allow you to keep video longer.

Personally I just buy the biggest drive I can and don't mask anything.

It's crazy that I didn't notice my Movado watch missing after a party (yea I'm still a bit young so it happens) at my place for over a month. Wen't back to that night and a buddy actually who was also hmmmm a bit 2 sheets 2 the wind but was looking out for my interests put it on top of my fridge all the way in the back. I run 8 cameras at 720p 24/7 and have about 60 days of video retention on my 4TB hard drive. (They're cheap).

UncleGrga that replied before me is spot on with his comments. Mount your cams outside, the HOA won't notice and if they do say anything you can always move them. Frankly I'm really curious why they won't allow that. Nobody notices my cameras. Trust me..... I've watch my neighbors do the silliest things. (I work from home, my NVR has an HDMI output so while I'm on the computer I keep it up on my flat screen TV just cause. (Well.... I have attractive stay at home moms that like to jog. hehe... Don't judge I'm young and single).

Again I live in one of the quietest unknown tight-nit subdivisions in this county.

Seeing your neighbor pick their nose, pull out a big one (720p cams only see so far and clarity falls fast so it was HUGE) and proceed to wipe it on her hubby's driver side door handle had me rolling.

Was even better watching him go to work.... I know.... I'm a bad person....

If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to reply. You can do this on a tight budget if you research.

If everything else connected to your home internet is solid, and it's just the Wii U that's being derpy, an ethernet switch with a wired Wii U adapter would be a cheap, bulletproof solution as /u/XAZSplatoon has said.

I'm partial to [Netgear equipment](http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-1000Mbps-GS205/dp/B00KFD0SMC?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_5), but anything will work. I prefer gigabit (10/100/1000) switches, just because you can push more data around your local network and they're really not much more expensive than 10/100 ("Fast") older types.

Here's the network adapter you need for your Wii U. Get the cheap white one that's $11. I haven't had any disconnects from matches since using one. The Wii U installed it automatically. I just plugged it into one of the USB ports on the Wii U, turned on the system, and then went to Connections and chose Wired Connection. It's been rock solid.

Get a 5-pack of Cat6 cables. (I'd go minimum 5-ft; you always want to have plenty of length.) Now, you have plenty of cables to run into and out of that switch.

There. For like $45, you just vastly improved your network at home. You can sell it as that to your dad. Offer to pay for some, all, or at least the Wii U adapter yourself to sweeten the deal. Also, all the stuff I just linked is top quality for a great price, so it will be great to use for all sorts of things network-related in the house or anywhere pretty much indefinitely. You and your dad will probably find ways to use all the ports on that switch pretty quickly.

Again, this will solve it if everything but the Wii U is generally solid, connectionwise. If the connection to other things is squirrelly, we can go further and talk about routers and such, but it sounds like this will be sufficient.

So I literally have a team at my house this very minute as I type this cabling my house with cat6. Now I have worked in IT for over 18 years and have punched down and ran cable in business but thats easy compared to a house and I didnt want to do it myself plus I have the money at this point to have some professionals do it. Anyway back to your question - I have always used Leviton inserts and punched them down but these guys showed up with Keystone Jacks that are effectively couplers which I was not expecting. So in your case this is what would actually work for you. Normally, you would use some inserts at the end of your cables and punch those down and put them into the patch panel BUT.. since you want to extend - you just need to use the same couplers that these guys are using.

​

So you get these couplers, one for each cable, as well as an RJ45 connector. You punch down the RJ45 connector to each cable. Then connect that to the coupler, then you are set. THEN another RJ45 connector on the end of the 6ft extension to regular Keystone jacks, put those keystone jacks into the patch panel. Thats your best option and gives you everything you need..... also at that point you say you need to extend 6ft but with this you can extend alot further as well giving you flexibility.

​

Cat6 Female to female like this:

Couplers

​

Rj45 Connector:

Rj45

​

this ^

just to add to his comments. that enclosure panel looks like it's one of those "pre drilled" panels that has accompanying add-ons such as teleco, network, video modules that you can add on to. while i'm not a big fan of using those types of network components, you might look up the brand of the enclosure and see what's available for it.

or you can just get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

...and screw it down with self tapping screws and just use that punch down tool you linked with the 110 blade. (practice first on a lower port if it's your first time using one of those... but they're fairly easy to use.... just keep it straight when punching down). same thing when punching down the Ethernet keystones in each room.

beginner's tip when punching down on those blocks: screw down the white bracket where you want it (make sure all cables reach first!). Then snap the punch panel backwards to give you a clear view of the back of each port. makes it easier to punch. then when you're done, un-snap it and snap it back the correct way. again... make sure cables all reach before screwing it down. if you have extra cable, i say punch it down with the extra then when you're done punching, push the excess cable back into the wall. depending on the height of the bracket, it's best to have a step ladder to get you chest level or so to the bracket... makes punching straight easier.

hope this helps.

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-LinkMaster-UTP-STP-Wiremapper-and-Tester-62-200/100091453
   
   If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
   
2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SC6/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkaDD_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=FGVJTXZ791HS9C3BHHBB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b40f1c79-82d3-5987-b1fd-b5c357ef4906&pf_rd_i=306629011
   
3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one (https://www.amazon.com/CMPLE-Punch-Stripper-Voice-Cables/dp/B00NR2Z6MA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-5&keywords=punch+down+tool) or one that is a little more robust (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-3&keywords=punch+down+tool)
   
   There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack
   
   If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.
   
   Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.
   
   Holler back if you need more info.

That's a structured media enclosure. You should probably find someone who knows low-voltage to give you a hand. There are a million accessories designed specifically to fit in shallow boxes like that. Some thoughts:

• Replace those daisy-chained RF splitters with one 8-way splitter. You may need an active splitter if you have reception problems, but if the current situation is working, I don't think this will be an issue.
  
  
• Are those CAT5 cables solid or stranded? If they are solid, they should be punched down to a panel like this and then patch from there to the router or switch. You can cut the Cat5 back to fit better (those cables are far too long) but leave a decent service loop tied up in the back for future maintenance.
  
  Even if they aren't solid-core, you should put new ends on them. Two of them look sketchy. Make sure you get ends meant for solid- or stranded-core.
  
  
• It looks like you have a power solution already, but if not, you can find power strips that mount to that kind of enclosure as well.
  
  TL;DR: There are small network devices meant specifically to mount inside a shallow structured enclosure like that. Get the right equipment, clean up the cables with some zip ties, and find a door.

If I counted correctly, you will need 9 Ethernet ports (8 for hosts and 1 for router to modem). The router has 4 Ethernet ports, which means that 3 are available for hosts and 1 is available to connect to a switch. I am not sure if the Storage Box has an Ethernet port because the page I provided before suggests it uses Ethernet over coaxial cable. Nonetheless, I would recommend that you connect your Storage Box (if it has Ethernet), network printer, and shared network drive (if it has Ethernet) to the switch built into the router. Use a CAT5E cable to connect the router's last available port to a switch. Connect your wired wall jacks to the switch (or if possible to the router if one of the devices mentioned earlier doesn't have Ethernet). What I'm trying to get at is that you should minimize your usage of the switch as much as possible because every additional networking device in your route introduces latency (while negligible usually, it's good practice). If you use CAT5E cable to connect your wired jacks, you should be fine. The best approach to wire a house is to use a patch panel that you punch down your Ethernet cable to. The patch panel will connect to your switch and router. By patch panel, I'm referring to something like this but with less ports. If you are confident in your ability to make cables, you can buy a spool of CAT5E ethernet cable and make the cables yourself. When I build out networks, this is what I do. Again, please ask questions if you have any. Also, I apologize if I gave you more details than you need. I'm under the impression you're pretty smart, but not every smart person knows the ins and outs of networking.

i'll join the chorus.

a RG6 and a Cat6 cable in the wall on either side of the door, will usually be sufficient.

if you want to be generous, run 2 network cables at each point, in case they are older tenants that want a land line.

i'd recommend using a 3 port keystone plate.

for the living room, i'd do the same setup, but on opposite walls as the main walk through.

if you want to be a hero, you can put speaker wire for rear channels, they make keystone speaker jacks. you'd spend like $30 for the jacks and some 14/2 wire, and let future tenants have rear channel speakers w/o tripping over the speaker wires. so you'd get a 2 speaker plate for both walls, and run a pair of 14/2 stranded cables between them.

as others have said, run all of these cables (except the speaker wires) to a closet somewhere and land them on a coax splitter and a network punch down block, both of which can be had pretty cheap. if you want to get fancy you can get a low-voltage panel than nails in between the studs and keeps everything nice.

what you REALLY want to do, is get some 1" ENT (smurf) and install that from the closet, out to your demarc on the outside of the building. so that jack ass cable companies and phone companies don't drill your building full of holes, and instead can pass their wire in the tube to your closet.

​

monoprice has great prices on bulk cable, and one wall plates.

ethernet patch panel https://www.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6/

coax splitter https://www.amazon.com/EXTREME-BALANCED-PERFORMANCE-HORIZONTAL-SPLITTER/dp/B00TNZ4J9Q/

​

leviton and ON-Q both make convenient structured wiring cabinets.

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-Enclosure-ENP3050-Structured/dp/B07FK58QY2/

you'll be locked into their ecosystem for the cable splitters, etc, that fit into the cabinet, but they make a very tidy package that you can easily nail into the studs and know exactly where to pull all your wires to.

This might sound like a lot of work but at my old place I got this 100 ft ethernet cable for my Wii U and it still serves me pretty well. It was well worth it. Without a cable unless you've got amazing WiFi you'll probably run into a lot of issues that'll sap the fun right out of playing.

I'm a renter - I've learned to get ethernet all sorts of fun places without taking the hassle or expense of running cables through walls and under floors.

Step 1 - What you need:#

Buy 100 ft. of flat, white, Cat 6 cable - something like this will do.

You'll also want some white gaffer tape. Be SURE you get gaffer tape, and not duct tape. It's just strong enough to string up cable, and won't peel paint. Something like this.

Pour yourself a glass of lemonade. We'll come back to this later.

Step 2 - What to do:#

Here's where you get to be creative.

Find the crown moulding where the walls meets the ceilings and floors of your house. The little creases are perfect for disguising that thin white cable. I have hundreds of feet of ethernet going all over my house, and it's practically invisible. If you don't have crown moulding, improvise. Match the tape to your paint colors on your walls. Take your time, measure twice, and an extra pair of hands is always helpful. Be sure to be gentle with Cat6, especially with sharp bends and corners.

You also might want a couple ethernet switches on either end, depending on what your needs are. I've had good luck with TP-Link switches, they're fairly affordable, but people don't seem to like them very much around here.

Step 3 - Drink that glass of lemonade from earlier.

'Cause you're done, baby. Enjoy your gigabit LAN.

P.S. If you've got any more questions or whatever, shoot me a message. This sub is a VERY helpful resource, too.

I don't have a specific brand as I get mine from a local distributor but i'd look for the following;

• Shielded cable - Great but often times you may need larger terminated ends because of the shielding
  
• Cat-6 or Cat-6a, 6a if you can spring for it.
  
• Solid cable vs Stranded; get the solid cable,its more durable for permanent installations.
  
  To make your life a bit easier I'd recommend an Ez crimp and ends for Ethernet terminating. They are a little more costly but will help you quite a bit during the installation.
  
  ​
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

thank you for the list

I am still researching DORI and differences between cameras, but from what I gathered so far here is what I need:

• blue iris $70 (with a phone app)
  
• pc (since it only supports windows) likely i7-6700 something like this
  
• PoE switch: something like this
  
• router, I have an old lynksys with dd-wrt which should do it
  
• several very long ethernet cables with some couplers
  
• most likely also a UPS
  
• ONVIF, PoE cameras
  
  the last bit I am still looking at. I am not ready to spend several hundred dollars per camera (one of your examples is Dahua 2MP Starlight which seems to be super expensive). While I understand it might be much better than the rest, I'd like to see if I can be in a $50 to $100 dollar range per camera. Is there any such cameras you can recommend?
  
  I can see some (ONVIF, PoE): Hikvision 4MP, ONWOTE 5MP, ONWOTE, 4X Optical Zoom Autofocus, Amcrest ProHD, GW Security 5, JideTech PTZ, etc. but I am not sure how to gauge the quality.

Well it depends on what you are getting, but I don't think that is too bad of a price if you are getting a decent size patch panel and the labor of punching everything down and mounting the wall plate. Patch panels are always going to be a better option than having a bunch of random cables that are individually terminated haphazardly run to one area. The main advantages are that all the cable runs (to each wallplate) have their own individual port on the panel and you can label that panel to know where the cable goes to if a problem may arise, you never touch the actual cable in the wall, you only use a patch cable to go from the patch panel to a switch so there is little to no chance of physical damage if for some reason you have to troubleshoot the connections and it's just overall much better aesthetically and logically speaking. The one thing to remember when using a patch panel at home is that you are going to need a patch cable for every port used on the patch panel to go to your main switch and that means you may need a larger switch than you may current have or that your home/consumer Wifi Router may have, so you should plan according to what you anticipate you will need in the future (I generally recommend buying 1.5-2x the # of ports you need right now to allow for future expansion, but this depends on the household, users, tech savviness and your overall needs).

Keep in mind that there is probably some significant markup on what he is charging you for the panel but at the same time that's expected if you do not provide the hardware. Amazon has lots of patch panels for comparison in all sizes. Personally I would plan for 2 runs / room to the same wall jack for redundancy, but it's generally overkill for most people's homes.
https://smile.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543300284&sr=1-10&keywords=patch+panel

I do have to say that the OCD in me is calmed when I see great networking jobs like this (the white devices are the switches, the black panels with the RJ45 ports are the patch panels):
https://content.spiceworksstatic.com/service.community/p/post_images/0000284828/5a29bb6f/attached_image/idf.jpg

Yeah, Webpass is pretty fantastic. The best ISP I've ever had. They've confirmed they have service in our development so they come into the picture somewhere.

It's 2004 construction, yeah. Yes, there is power in the closet and if not I'll have my electrician add an outlet (we're doing a bunch of work so adding an outlet won't be a problem if needed). I have Webpass coming out a week from today to set up service in the new place, so that will be instructive.

I found this patch panel from Tripp-Lite. Is retermination something I can do myself if I watch some videos and buy some basic tools or should I have a pro come out and do it for me?

EDIT: I just looked at another photo I took and there's an outlet about 6 inches below and to the left of the panel I took photos of. Good to go on power.

Hello, great article. I’ve been having a hard time finding a basic guide for setting home a home WiFi network using Ethernet cables. Every room in my house has the cabling for it but I don’t know what my hub ought to look like coming from the Verizon FiOS terminal. This is where I will eventually have my smart home hub as well (haven’t gotten to research that yet). Do I need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3
Or this? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

If not full article-worthy, any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!

So being commo I know some good gifts for us nerds. I know you are going to spend some time making cables, so check this shit out RJ-45's that let you pull the wires though the RJ45. Well now that you got that, might as well buy the crimper with a cutting edge designed for those RJ-45's. I keep the Crimpers in a old PRC-127 radio pouch for easy attachment to my gear if needed too.

If you wanna feel like a cool guy with a gerber, but also need to run some cables? Well we got the Gerber Cable Dawg. Great thing about this thing is it has MAN's for you to get that supply guy who you have been nice too order them and comes with a MOLLE pouch to attach to your gear.

• UCP: 5110-01-598-2253
  
• Coyote Brown: 5110-01-598-2254
  
• MultiCam: 5110-01-598-2248

>trim to proper length

EZRJ-45.

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU

I will never go back. You can't make me. NO ONE CAN MAKE ME GO BACK.

On the real though, these save you SO MUCH TIME, and if you're like me and just hold your hand over the wires while you crimp/cut the cleanup is super easy.

Cutting, stripping, crimp/cut. Best things I've ever used.

Even has the pinout for A/B on there so you really shouldn't screw it up.

Thank you! Wish I could take you up on that offer but in Texas. My current home I bought a spool and did all that myself. I did this deal...

Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7B39BbXKNCKAG

So it crimps and clips the wires all in one. It just took forever and I felt like my RJ45s were kind of oversized and some didn’t fit in the switch right. Eventually I got the hang but that was 6 years ago so I was thinking maybe take the easy way out this time, ha.

Also in the networking closet I want to make it look pretty but out in the house I’m going to run cables to, AC-PROs, IW-PROs, or cameras. And all of those take RJ45 for input I think.

Maybe I just need to suck it up and terminate the bulk wire or hire someone just to come do just that part who is good at it.

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

Nothing will beat a wired connection. And you will never get that download speed on wifi... You have no access to your basement or attic to run ethernet? 100 feet is cheap.... Pair it with a 5 port gb switch for your desk would be a nice upgrade if needed...


With ~40 feet of distance, and everything in between like walls and doors, even with the best USB or PCI adapter, there will be signal loss.

A good way to test and see connectivity is to use your cell phone where your PC is located... speedof.me in your web browser, or the Speed Test Ookla app... Also, I know on android, you can see the properties of the access point you are connected to and see the current speed you care connected at, ( n130, dual band n300, ac900~ish)

The Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I you linked would be a decent choice, especially being it has a better positionable antenna... Anything PCI and that type of antenna would be better than usb.

TP Link could work as well

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

Make sure you look up how to attach the cable ends to the cables. There are 8 wires in the cable and they're color coded. You have to put them in the correct order or they won't work. [Technically, the actual color order doesn't matter, but they have to be consistent.]

Might not be worth it for a one-time job, but a cable tester like:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O
... is handy to check your work before it drives you insane. You plug in the remote to one end and the base to the other and it lights up if you have a connection or shows mismatches. When you're done, you can test cables using the base. Definitely worth the $5 since now you can make custom length ethernet cables for a fraction of the cost you can buy them at the store for.

You have to decide if you want to put plug ends on (like the end of an ethernet cable) which will plug straight into your device or receptacles that you mount to the floor/wall in a plate (and then you use a regular cable [that you can now make!] to connect it to your device.)

They both work, the receptacles and plates look nicer than a cable sticking out of the floor.

You'll need a drill and drill bits to put holes in things.
If you're going under, you'll want clips that hold the cable in place, maybe. Zipties work too.

You'll need a crimper, like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
You get the wires lined up into the plug and this squeezes the metal contacts down into the wires to hold them and make a connection.

It's totally doable, go for it!

Just buy a roll of this and run it to the room you would like to use it in.

To make it pretty, I would run the 100ft cable to the back of this

Get two more smaller Ethernet cables, run one from the outlet into this switch (any port on it) if you want more ports in the other room, and then the other short cable from the switch to your PC.

This would be the best, most professional way of getting Ethernet into your room. It'll be much more stable and provide better performance than a WiFi dongle.

Direct Burial the only drawback is price its very very expensive if that is not a concern the only other issue is the grease that they put inside just have a few paper towels on hand. I am personally a fan of the pull through RJ45 crimps https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FI9VU2&pd_rd_r=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&pd_rd_w=tcXRA&pd_rd_wg=ggomX&psc=1&refRID=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&dpID=41jjLiPUwkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

but you need a special tool to cut it off clean. https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524701919&sr=8-3&keywords=ez+rj45&dpID=41xnvb1PL8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I especially like these as you can double check that you have not messed up as you pull them through just do a double check on your colour's

in Canada we tend to use T568a but i believe a lot of places use T568b personal preference, http://www.cables-solutions.com/difference-between-straight-through-and-crossover-cable.html

I have never found any conduit that gets buried to be able to stop water ingress but any electrical supply store should be able to set you up with whatever you need but direct burial should be used as well especially if your in a place like Canada with a large temperature range.

Get at least a 25 ft. ethernet cable, you'll need to make sure you have the length in case your computer is on the opposite end of your dorm. Also, get a small, 19" or so, TV that'll be light enough to carry in between your home and dorm. If your university has cable, you'll want a coaxial cable to hook up your TV to it, and an HDMI cable (I recommend a flat cable) to hook your computer up to the TV to use it as a second monitor. You won't be able to game or anything, due to the refresh rate, but it will be perfectly fine for watching videos on Netflix/Hulu/Xfinity/Crunchyroll/Whichever video provider you use.

Would you like a falafel with that?

Is this for structured wiring? If so, I would use a patch panel with punch down connections and a punch down tool.

If that option does not work for you for some reason, I would ask a friend who is a networking geek to help me out. This is something I would gladly do for a friend.

But if you are determined to do this on your own, a pass-through connector and a magnifying glass might get you there:

• http://kk.org/cooltools/ez-rj45-connector/
  
  They have Cat 5e and Cat 6 versions:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100003C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B001AZLS6Y?th=1
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2
  
   
  
  ETA: Dang it, SScorpio beat me to it, times two. Yeah, what he said. ;)

Best is to install a patch panel in the utility room instead of using RJ45 connectors. Make sure it says Cat5, Cat6 cable is a different wire gauge (thickness) Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

There you could also place a switch: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122822

One of the jacks in your house would link that to your modem and then all the network jacks in the house will be active.

Once you get that sorted out you might want to consider 1-2 additional wifi access points at strategic locations to optimize wifi coverage.

I just need a second opinion, would this LAN cable be good enough to connect my Switch to a wired connection? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001W28L2Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB&psc=1 Never bought one before, but I figured Nintendo's not known for the most stable online so I want to give my internet the best chance it can get. What do you think about the cable?

The handles on the server chassis may get in the way. If it slides in, guess that be good enough. just won't be flush due to the screws holding the shelving in. I could look into swapping out the handles on the server chassis from 4u to like 1u or something, then it can become flush. This need 1u of free space on the bottoms of where the handles goes. I have come up with a list of parts.

 

Rosewill 4U Server Chassis / Server Case / Rackmount Case, Metal Rack Mount Computer Case support with 15 bays & 7 Fans Pre-Installed (RSV-L4500)

Requires modifying from HDD setup to GPU Setup to save money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

NavePoint Adjustable Rack Mount Server Shelf Shelves Rail Rails 1U (33.25" max depth)

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518819818&sr=1-2&keywords=1u+shelving

 

Tripp Lite 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack, Network Equipment Rack, 1000 lb. Capacity (SR4POST25) 22" to 36" depth

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OB8T72/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

So ive been looking into everything.

Retro pie was a little tough but I got it. Kodi seems to be for streaming music and shows that I already have downloaded, correct? Am I able to go to youtube/twitch with that? And the roku stick is for netflix? Does that sound about right?

The pi seems to only have one ethernet port correct? And that will be used to connect to my computer so I can play games from steam? I didnt realize you can use ethernet as an hmdi cord thats pretty cool. I already have this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Thats good right?

I caved and bought an ethernet cable and LAN adaptor for the Spongebob v Patrick Splatfest. Best $28.47 I've ever spent! I get additional value from it since I love playing MK8 online.

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

Are you sure this is where it is bad/what is causing the problem. It is hard to tell from the picture exactly, so here is some general info.

The outer black layer is pretty much just for protection/shielding and could be replaced with electrical tape in a pinch (which it sounds like you have tried).

Inside you have 8 wires in 4 color pairs (a solid and a stripe). One or more of those wires may be damaged/disconnected.

I would look at them closely, peal back the black outer coating more if needed, and see if you can find any breaks in the 8 smaller wires. If you find one and absolutely don't want to buy anything to fix it right or run another cable, you may be able to strip off the outer coating on the individual wire to expose the copper wire inside.

Do that on both sides of the break, twist it together, cover with electrical tape, then try it out. If it works, cover the whole thing back up with electrical tape.

If you don't see any obvious breaks or issues, check into other issues (like is it maybe the router, the XBox, the cable RJ-45 plugs (the ends), etc).

Anyway, good luck. If you really want to fix it right, you could get a not that great, but serviceable crimper set for under $15:

http://smile.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/

Cut the cable on either side fo the tear, use that to put an RJ45 jack on each end of the break, then use a coupler like this to join them back:

http://smile.amazon.com/Britta-Products-271710-Coupler-Straight/dp/B000BSLW8U/

I know that isn't what you want to do, but it may be the best way if that is the true cause/location of your problem.

You've got Orange, Green, Blue, and Brown pairs. Smells like ethernet cabling to me. Looking at the cables themselves, it seems it's shielded, too.

My guess is that the cabling is being used for phone. You could likely convert one (or more) of them for network use. If there is enough slack, you could get a simple punchdown block like this one. The back of it is color coded, so it'd be easy for you to tell which wire goes where. Then you could get some Cat5/6 patch cables and a switch (or use the 4 port switch on your router) to make the RJ45's on the walls live.

One thing I'd do first, however, is pull the wall plate for one of those RJ45 ports and make sure a yellow cable is going to it. That way you'll be nearly 100% sure you've got the right cables in that wall box. :)

Personally I run the wired ethernet and it works flawlessly. Almost any wireless router should have fast enough ethernet to make Steam Link run perfect. I have white walls so I just use the flat white ethernet cables that come with wall/ceiling tacks and run them across the ceiling to my steam link. Took me about ten minutes and $11 worth of supplies. Plus, no one has ever noticed the cables unless I pointed them out, to which they are always like "Oh wow I didn't even realize they were there"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017GQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Previous AT&T Tech here, please make sure the technician checks ALL connections. The fiber obviously the most important... then the Ethernet connection coming from the ONT to the RG (modem). If you can, make sure there are no butt connector splices as this means the install was done incorrectly (looks like this) Your Ethernet line should only have RJ-45 connections or punched down to a Keystone Jack. Anything else is done incorrectly and needs to be fixed to retain twists in the cable. Also, if they used existing cabling please make sure it is ATLEAST Cat5e or Cat6. If the existing wiring is on the outside of the building and looks aged/weathered, it needs to be replaced.

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.

Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1572791966&sprefix=Patch+&sr=8-8

Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&qid=1572792046&sprefix=8+po&sr=8-6



Edit:

Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&qid=1572793212&sprefix=poe+i&sr=8-3

Do you have a picture of the point in your basement where all the Cat5 wires come together?

There should be at least a panel there something that looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cat5+panel&qid=1550268373&s=gateway&sr=8-3 where all the ethernet cables connect to.

From the front of the panel there might be a bunch of wires that connect to a box (which will be a switch, or possibly a router). Probably not the switch and you'll have to acquire one. Once you have a switch then you'll be able to get the ethernet cables working.

Once you have done that, get an access point with an ethernet connection and use that in one of the rooms near your wife's office. that should give her the best connection. What would be better is to use ethernet to connect her device. That's the right way to do it if you can.

I'd recommend picking up one of the super basic types (like this http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O ) they are invaluable for peace of mind testing.

Why not just run long 50-100ft ethernet cable along side of your walls on floor and hammer it using wire mounts to make it all flush and hidden? It's what I did and came out nice and out of the way. Ethernet is pretty cheap on amazon you can get 100ft of cable for next to nothing https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474607075&sr=1-6&keywords=100ft+ethernet worth a try for 20$, may want to be something you look into as only way to get true 1gpbs.

Sorry for the late response, but this is easily the best wireless connection ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Yes! Use these all the time with great success. You'll need the crimpers to go with them as they cut off the extra wire.

These cables seem to be pretty good quality, they have some longer ones if 15ft isn't enough

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00EUHRLF6/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426450095&sr=1-5

also, looks like amazon sells W8 for a little cheaper than BH

http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426450153&sr=8-7&keywords=windows+8+upgrade

I don't even think OP should have used an actual rack like that. The best thing for homes is a simple, wall-mount patch panel, which are inexpensive and easy to use. It's what I used in my basement. You can usually wall-mount a 5-port switch, too, they usually have those slots for screws in the back.

But if you really must have a 19" rack, you can get 4U wall mountable racks fairly cheaply, or a flush mount 1U rack, or if you need something sturdier. But I've seen those mounted; they stick out much further than you think they do when you picture them in your head.

Ok so i hold the staple gun just a little above where im going to put the staple in so it doesnt go in all the way and it creates a little rung you see and you want the staple to be length wise along the cable too so you can ziptie through the staple if that makes any sense. I put a staple every couple feet so the cord doesnt sag at all and http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Staple-Gun-TR45D/202256446 heres a link to a staple gun and https://www.amazon.com/100FT-ETHERNET-INTERNET-ROUTERS-GAMING/dp/B001BJTDH0 just any gray or white ethernet cord should be good. cat5 cables are fine unless your gunna be doing 4k stuff then you should get a cat7 cable. i hope this helps man.

Sure, but it will be best to show your parents before actually doing it.

I know this is US amazon but this is an example of flat ethernet cable https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

Not including the length between the Linkbox and the Vive, just the length between the Linkbox and my PC, I'm at 50ft (15m)! I'm using this HDMI cable, this USB<->Ethernet converter and this Ethernet cable at a total of just over $100.

Everything works great except the front camera only works when I skip the Linkbox for USB and plug my Vive's USB right into the extender. You can skip the USB for the Vive and plug it right into the USB<->Ethernet converter and still plug the Linkbox USB right into the converter and everything works great :).

This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.

>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/

That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.

That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.

I'm looking at buying Jadaol's flat 50ft Cat6 on Amazon, here

The reviews seem pretty good, does it seem like a decent quality that isn't one of the poor-quality ones you describe?

Saw this on Slickdeals, hopefully it helps you all as much as it does me! While your at it, change your amazon smile to the EFF to help fight for net neutrality!



25' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$4.58 w/ promo code RR99ROJL

https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B018BCJKE0/



50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.09 w/ promo code CQTGWYYH

https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/



100' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$10.48 w/ promo code TWEGP5DO
https://smile.amazon.com/Flat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Clips/dp/B00WD017BG/





50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$6.09 w/ promo code H2CHE27H
https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-Black-Connectors/dp/B00WD017FW/




6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$5.96 w/ promo code BW7VDF6M
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGI0O




6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$5.96 w/ promo code MDJ5FGIM
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGKQ6


***

3-Pack 6' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.34 w/ promo code 89QBRPS2
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGRPU

Assuming that each run goes from the jack in the wall back to the junction box, it is very easy to fix the wiring. Begin by pulling off all of the wall plates, and check to see if all 8 wires are terminated in the jack.

terminated

If they are, I would purchase a patch panel and terminate all of the wires in it. You need to make sure the color layout on the jacks is the same as the panel, because there are two different standards. You can find this out by looking on the jack itself, and you should see a template that states A and B, and the wires SHOULD (as long as the low voltage installer was competent) follow one of those standards. Just write down which is being used, and then use the same standard when terminating the other end of the wires in the patch panel. The only tool you need to accomplish this is a punch down tool.

As long as the wires are in the wall, the hard part is done! Terminating them just takes a little time, but is very easy to do. Once you have them terminated in the patch panel, throw in a switch/router and you are all set!

A wired connection is substantially faster than 2.4 and 5ghz. Not only in greater bandwidth but also with less delay over the Network. It also won't be slowed down by other wireless devices as much. I highly recommend wiring any device that has the option, WiFi is really only for things that don't have a LAN port or need to be mobile - as far as I'm concerned.


Any rj45 Ethernet cable will do the job, typically CAT5e or CAT6. Just a quick Amazon search; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ

That one is kinda long at 50ft. But it'll give you an idea of what to look for. I would just look at items that have lots of good ratings and you'll be fine.

If you want something quick and easy, spend a bit more money and get these. Ive used versions of them before and they are super convenient.
(If your cabling comes into the box from the top, just install the plates upside-down so the cables dont bend in the box).

https://www.amazon.ca/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

https://www.eagleg.com/products/cat6-right-angle-keystone-coupler-white?variant=18620127543353

Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

As far as racks go, you can get a standard 45U rack pretty cheap off of ebay because companies surplus their old ones. I've looked for months for a cheap small one (16-25U) and haven't found one under $200 or so. As far as buying new, this is the best deal I've found (for a 4-post rack, which you want for servers as they get heavy and can tip with 2-posts):
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416882880&sr=8-1&keywords=server+rack

You could even do this with a cheap option but way more effective option -> an unmanaged 5-port switch like this one from D-Link for only $15, and buy a 5-pack of 5ft Cat6 ethernet cables like this one from Cable Matters for only $11. This would be plug-in-play (minus configuring static IPs on your PCs). Only having the switch assumes you don't need the Internet.

If you need the Internet (and/or don't want to setup static IPs on your PCs), go for a cheap wireless home router like this one from D-Link for $30.

if you are new to terminations I would recommend these

not the best but the pass through really makes crimping your ends pretty painless and fool-proof

Pro tip for laptop owners:

• go to Control Panel => Network and Sharing Center => Change Adapter Settings
  
• hold the ALT key, click on Advanced on top => Advanced Settings
  
• you'll see your wifi vs. Ethernet. Click on Ethernet and click on the up arrow to move it to the highest position
  
  What this will do:
  
  
• when you're plugged in, you'll always use Ethernet
  
• when you're not, it'll use Wifi
  
  I.e. you won't be on wifi when you're plugged in. This is particularly helpful at work when you go in and out your work area.
  
  This is how I set up all laptops at work so people spend the least amount of time on Wifi.
  
  Also, go here, download their software, get a layout of your home/office, and walk around clicking on each step. This will map all your wifi signals in your house or office (including wireless printers) so you know where you can get the best connection (which affects all your wireless devices including your phone).
  
  Also, in case you're wondering why you're disconnected, here is how wifi works. When you're watching a video, you get a buffer so the quick disconnect (< 1s) won't be a problem since you have the buffer but if you need a constant connection (ex: your remote system) then it can disconnect you due to lack of signal. Video games, websites, apps, etc don't care if you lose the signal for a second or so (that's what a lag spike is) but some software (including online games) have a timer where if you're disconnected for a few seconds, it'll kick you off.
  
  Are you far away from the router? Here is a 50' Ethernet cord with cable clips for $12. You can run this alongside your floor panels if you like.
  
  Always use Ethernet if you can - it's the fastest and most stable signal you can get that's pretty cheap.

I'd much rather use EZ connectors. Seems way easier than both types. I've used these off and on for 5 years, never had a bad crimp. I get that OP was going budget, but if you can spring for better connectors it's so worth it.

Any one that has a good amount of positive reviews should do.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords – Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem – faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_31RLBbFYG97EB

Here are some links for those of you that do need to make cables and have the terrible misfortune of not knowing about EZ-RJ45 ends. And here are the crimpers that go with those awesome ends. There are a more expensive set of ratcheted crimpers, but I've never used them. This combo of crimpers and ends makes perfect cables every time.

Best option where possible is run a cable. You can get flat cables that are easier to run through gaps https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

What's your current WiFi adapter?

You can buy bulk ethernet and coax cable in 500'-1000' spools as well as the connectors and tools from nearly every hardware, as well as online retailers such as amazon, newegg, and monoprice.

Bulk Cat 6

Cat 6 Connectors

RJ45 Ethernet Crimping Tool

Instructions (Note: this shows both straight through and cross-over cables. You only need to use a crossover cable if you are plugging two computers NIC cards directly together. In all other instances where you are going to a switch/router, you want straight through).

Bulk RG6 Coax

RG6 Compression Connectors

RG6 Compression tool

Instructions

If you have carpet you can order a 50 to 100 foot FLAT Ethernet cable to run from one room to another, and you can pull up the edge of the carpet and lay it underneath. if it is a flat cable it will not show when you lay the carpet back down. You should be able to then set up another router, move the current router you have, or you can alternatively get a long phone line to run through your carpet.

Doesn't take much effort and a youtube video could handle it. Just make sure it is at least Cat6 (1 gigabit per second at least) as a cable. Cat5 is an older technology.

​

Setting up a router itself has some very simple youtube videos that explain how to do it. It's honestly not that hard to set up a router - the difficulty comes when you have to apply new DNS ports (Which is something most people dont have a clue about). Heck, maybe once you get the ethernet cable there it can connect directly, or you can get a dongle that lets you apply the ethernet cable as a phone cable instead.

Getting someone to come out and run wire through your wall is going to be destructive and cost a lot of time. The best option is DIY and to just buy a longer cable and run it from one room to another.

Source: Software Engineer / Jr. Hardware Technician

​

Here's some links that might be helpful

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7FxORx05Ns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lagEXvgXYzc

unless you are in a really old house, it is easy to do. And I recommend something like this near your switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541083064&sr=1-18&keywords=patch+panel

You'd probably benefit from these:

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

They make super tight connections that certify on flukes with room to spare.

cable testers are great for checking crimps (it's so easy to make a mistake) Amazon has a ton of cheap testers that work well.

I used this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P1OA1O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're looking for keystone jacks instead of punchdown termination.

Every keystone jack panel I could find on amazon & ebay was grossly overpriced, so I bought a blank keystone panel (probably cheaper brands, but I like Tripp Lite) and a pack of keystone jacks.

$45~ all in, didn't have to buy crimpers and tips, and saved time and hassle.

The punchdown panels are more for if you have a 1000ft spool of Cat5 and you're terminating your own cables.

Mediabridge Ethernet Cable (15 Feet) - Supports Cat6/5e/5, 550MHz, 10Gbps - RJ45 Cord (Part# 31-399-15X ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUHRLF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YGjuDb66W42TB


That is 23awg vs the 30awg on this flat cable. The one I linked also is rated up to 500-550mhz. The flat one is only 250mhz. The one I linked is true copper, this one is more than likely copper clad aluminum. Other than that, true spec cat6 is not only twisted pairs but also all the pairs themselves twist around the cable. There's also foil shielding, I don't think this flat cable has it. Like I said, most people wouldn't notice a difference especially if you are nowhere near gigabit speeds. If you often transfer files between computers ( or other things ) at gigabit speeds then I would invest a bit more on higher quality cables.

A switch and some cheap color coded cables! Made network setup a breeze.

Folding tables/chairs make setup and breakdown easy. Set up an extra for snacks/drinks.

Put a small cheap waste basket at each table to keep tables clean and clear.

Velcro Strips keep cables tidy at the lan or the battlestation as well as keeping them from tangling in your bag.

1. No you would have the have the USB stick there all the time. Your computer does not have an antenna. It needs a piece of hardware to send and receive radio signals. The IEEE 1394a port is also called fire wire. It is like USB, but it has sort of died out so you probably wont ever use it. It is for older external hard drives and such. You can have internet right now if you use and Ethernet cable and plug into the router. That is how most people with a desktop do it. I can tell you are pretty new to this so please feel free to keep asking questions, I would be glad to keep helping until you get it sorted out.

Get EZ connectors and this problem goes away:

Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zm6oybP0RJ62F

Don't forget the associated EZ crimpers too.

I had the same exact question for DIY subreddit a few months ago looking to do the same thing as you. Forget about the patch panel and the big box stores. Don't spend a ton of money. You are just wiring a couple rooms. You can get everything off Amazon or ebay for cheap. If you don't care about phone service then just cut the cables and crimp on new. Then plug all the crimped ends into a switch. No need for a panel. You can get a tester for cheap at amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346567376&sr=8-2&keywords=network+cable+tester

I bought and used that one and it worked great. Probably not the best out there, but for a one time simple project to get a few rooms online it is more than enough.

The only thing to spend some money on is the punch down tool (Although doesn't look like you may need one based on your wall jacks). The ones that come free with other stuff are useless and will waste your time and wiring. This one worked well for me:
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346567733&sr=1-1&keywords=TRENDnet+Punch+Down+Tool+with+110+and+Krone+Blade+TC-PDT


Crimping is easy as hell if you use connectors like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JCVI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

The crimping tool by the same brand actually cuts the excess wiring while you crimp. I did about 10 crimps and all worked perfect the first time. I bought a EZ RJ-45 $60 crimp tool from someone on ebay. Then sold it for the same amount two weeks later when I finished using it.

Yep, Monoprice is pretty much the source for inexpensive, quality cables.

If you absolutely MUST use Amazon OP, Cable Matters has high-quality cables: https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY/

This is kind of like when I first started out, I was rather excited about ez-rj45, but I soon learned they're not worth it.

The ends are expensive. You need the more expensive crimps. If you really want to spend money to save time, just buy patch cables. The only times I make my own ends anymore is if I'm making a custom connector (usually for ham radio) or if I need to run the cable through a small hole.

Get the EZ crimper

Get the EZ connectors

The way people use spaces changes, especially in a high growth rate thing like a startup. Moving around furniture will absolutely be a thing. I would design this expecting to have to move everything in a year.

A 4 gang box on the desk, with a f-f RJ45 Coupler keystone to a pre-made patch cable, running to a 24 port switch, with that 24 port switch home run back to the head end via armored fiber jumper. That saves you from having to custom make hundreds of cables. You should be able to get really close to the right size pre-made cables to reach from the switch to each SMB.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-41089-4WP-QuickPort-Surface-Housing/dp/B002FYB0L2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4+port+surface+mount+box&qid=1568403900&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rj45+keystone&qid=1568403954&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Depending on how often you think you might do this, it may be worth your money to get a crimper, ends, and tester, and then you can make your own cables. Making your own cables isn't fun, but it's a lot easier to string bulk ethernet cable through walls then it is to try and get finished ethernet cables through walls without damaging them.

AC isn't the keyword you want. If you want better speeds you need to look for one with gigabit ethernet ports like this one. You also need to plug the router into the wall with a gigabit cable.

The (expensive) hardware solution with Serato: Get a Rane SL 2,3 or 4 interface. That will allow you use the CDJ2000s like some bigger sized DDJ platters/controllers with Serato.

The (free, but maybe time intensive) software solution with Rekordbox: Download Rekordbox, reorganize your library in Rekordbox (this might help) and either

• get a switch and some network cables to connect your laptop to the players
  
  
• get some USB/SD drives and export your audio files to them via the rekordbox aplication.
  

All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.

Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.

I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.

Use these next time Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors. Every wire goes through so you know for sure that you have a good connection. Takes maybe a min or less per end with these. They have Cat 5e connectors as well.

Bad termination "works", but when it decides to get funky it can give you all sorts of troubleshooting headaches. Much better to do it right the first time.

The holes in the back of the wall box are to mount modules like a [small patch panel] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000U3DXM4/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_of_16?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3KD636KR3SCX8X0YTGG6) . Terminate in a small patch panel and get some pre-made patch cables.

It seems you're very confused by what everyone is trying to tellyou so I'll try to break it down for you.

Your computer can connect to the internet either through a wired connection or wireless connection (also known as Wi-Fi).

Wired Connection

For a wired connect you need three things

• 1. A modem (the box that provides allows you to have internet)
     
     
• 2. Computer with an Ethernet/LAN (Local Area Network) port.
     An Ethernet/LAN port looks like [this] (https://dailykermit.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/pcback.png?w=700)
     
     
• 3. An Ethernet cable (this is the wired connection). An Ethernet cable looks like this
     
     What you do is plug the Ethernet cable into both the modem and your computer into the Ethernet/LAN ports. The Ethernet cable passes the internet connection from the modem to your computer.
     
     Wireless Connection
     There are multiple ways of connecting wirelessly to the internet, but in your case you need primarily two things:
     
     
• 1. A router. This is different from a modem. A modem allows you to connect to the internet through a wired connection. A router allows you to the internet without a wired connection. With that being said there are modems which are also routers (so they are two devices in one).
     
     Because you don't have a wired connection to pass the internet on to your computer, you need something else so your computer can connect to your router. There are several methods of connecting to the internet but I'll cover the two most common ones for desktops.
     
     
• 1. PCI-E network adapter. Here's an example of [one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/?tag=pcpapi-20)
     
• 2. USB network adapter. Here's an example of [one] (https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498950306&sr=8-4&keywords=usb%2Bwireless&th=1)
     
     If you install one of these on your computer, they will act as the internet receiver. What does this mean? Your router (which is the source of your internet) can connect to the internet receiver, which would give you a wireless internet connection.
     
     Whether you want to connect to the internet through a wired or wireless connection is completely up to you (however most will suggest a wired connection because this is the most reliable type of connection).
     
     Note: The links I provided were for educational purposes only and are not necessarily recommendations, however I picked them from the best-sellers list in Amazon for their categories so they aren't necessarily bad either.

You might as well get a decent gigabit ethernet switch. Netgear makes a really nice managed POE switch for $150.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS110TP-Gigabit-GS110TP-200NAS/dp/B00LW9A328

Pretty much any cat6 cable will do. If you have an rj45 crimping tool you can cut the cables to the exact length that you require and terminate the ends. Otherwise just buy preterminated cables.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY

If at all possible, a really long ethernet cable is the ideal solution:

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/

However, if ethernet absolutely is not an option for you, then proper 3x3 AC Wi-Fi on both the router and receiver ends can do wonders:

Router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/

Receiver: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T9UH-Wireless-network/dp/B01GE9QS0G/

The key is to get a receiver that has an extension cable. You want to have flexibility in where you can position it. You don't want it sticking directly into your computer and being blocked by a bunch of stuff with a lot of interference.

Ideally you want ethernet cable ($13 for 100ft) but if that's not possible you probably want to look into a range extender (Netgear and TP-Link have some popular ones that just plug into a walloutlet). If you are going to use the range extender I would then at least try to have a wired connection to that.

Depends on your ends. If you're using fancy Ez push through Cat 6's like: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2 Then I'd get the platinum tools one to match https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90&pd_rd_w=aewvk&pd_rd_wg=Fsm6F&psc=1&refRID=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90 since it'll cut the cables off as you crimp.

Otherwise I'd go with Klein's. Their data cable stuff is very good.

I bought these two and it worked great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVT02/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZPGV1H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are you sure that the "cable" connexions are live?

I do not believe there is a modern set up that uses coaxial where ethernet is the medium standard for LAN, unless what you need is a modem/router combo, which may or may not work depending on the service.

You should better be looking at running a (probably flat) ethernet cord instead. Maximum should be 50' or 100 meters, from the router upstairs.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords - Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem - faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O.YwDbWS35YHY

It's conveniently flat and is very low profile to run in corners or between door frames, if you get that, I'd recommend taping it or use adhesive on every other 2 meters.

Ethernet Cable

Order that and call it a day. :)

CAT6 is good for 100 meters or 328 feet.

> Can I change out the dsl or phone ports to ethernet since it's CAT5?

Yes, since it is Ethernet cables ran here, you'll just need to get different punch down block in the main box. So where all the Ethernet cables are centrally ran, you'd pull out that phone distribution block and replace it with the linked block and re-punch down each Ethernet cable to the block. You would then add a cable modem and router to this same area and then all the Ethernet cables would patch into the router's Ethernet ports.

​

> What could I do with the two Coax ports? One is definitely for cable, but it seems to me there's a need for some kind of audio or video connectivity option since there's a panel behind the TV. Also around the TV are pre-wired surround sound panels that lead to a spot just above one of the weird double coax panels.

The double coax is for OTA antenna. Do you have an outside TV antenna on this house by chance? Or maybe in the attic of the house?

​

Basically what the previous owner probably had was Satellite TV + OTA antenna. That is why you see two runs of coax at TV locations in the home.

​

Really not much else you can do with them unless you want to take advantage of OTA antenna as well at cable TV.

If you dont want a full blown floor standing rack, there are other options that would neaten this up.

You could wall mount a couple patch panels right next to that hole, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NUXCHE6/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_N9ADxb573TN78

Or maybe a small wall mounted rack, just for your network (switch and patch panel), kinda like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008CR07OM/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_..ADxb7KF81P1

Don't bother with wifi, buy a long ethernet cable and plug into the switch on the router.

https://www.amazon.com/100FT-ETHERNET-INTERNET-ROUTERS-GAMING/dp/B001BJTDH0

Standard ethernet is rated for 100 ft of length, so 100meters cat5e is guaranteed to get you 1Gbps on supporting hardware, if you have satisfactory terminations.

EDIT: meters not feet actually, so up to 300ft long cable for 1gigabit on cat5e

Could you post some pictures of this control panel?

Would you be willing to buy networking tools? Something like this is super-cheap and would be able to help you figure out what cables go where.

Network Tester

I would invest in one of these: http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395163435&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e+tester

It is all you need to make sure your wired correctly. If it tests fine with this tester, 99.99 percent of the time you will be fine with 1Gb links. Still to early for 10Gb so I wouldn't worry about that yet. Cat6 should be fine for future proofing at this point since its too early for home 10Gb gear to know what will be available.

Replace that board with one like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-C5B-Category-Module-Bracket/dp/B000U3DXM4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454094263&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+cat5

Then connect each of those ports to a switch and you'll be good to go!

Not really, I use a 50-foot ethernet cable. A wifi-adapter is like $35 or so and it's only decently reliable. This one here seems to have really nice reviews and it's less than $13 with prime.

i was thinking of getting this router with this moca adapter and use this ethernet cord. I believe the coax outlets are all connected because i took the router from upstairs and plugged it into my coax and it worked perfect. As far as speeds i mostly want to be able to set up a wired connection to my computer for gaming and be able to connect my ps4 with a wired connection and all my other devices wireless.

You are correct, as you dont want to crack the copper in a solid cat5/6. Take a look at THIS. Specifically the sizes and contacts section.

I recommend something like THIS.

For small home setups, I've had plenty of luck with patch panels like this one.

50 ft cable is like 9$ on amazon. Bring a zip tie (or if you're fancy a velcro cable tie) and you're good, the bulk of your cable is rolled up next to your computer.

I've used this one a number of times and have been extremely happy with it. BUT, it's only Cat5e and only 12 ports.

Maybe try something like this it's still only 12 port but if you want wall mount you could put two side by side?

Platinum tools makes something like that: Platinum Tools 100036 EZ-RJ45 Cat6 Strain Relief, (Clear). 50/Bag.(Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KKX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gDjGAbZH3BZ0A

And: Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mEjGAbCVFZD7F

But they have their own crimper that cuts off the excess wire. I've never used them but I know people who do and they like them.

This was a godsend.

My PS4 is downstairs, but the ethernet box is in a laundry room upstairs. The flat cable allows me to connect under doors even when they're closed.

And they're pretty cheap, even at that length.

Well, first things first, find a way to hardwire into your router.

I was on Wifi for the longest time simply because our router is all the way across the house. But the lag eventually drove me insane so I bought a 100ft ethernet cable to run all the way across the house. Lol Works like a charm!

I believe this is the exact one I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/100FT-ETHERNET-INTERNET-ROUTERS-GAMING/dp/B001BJTDH0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500018305&sr=1-5&keywords=100+ft+ethernet+cable

This is fantastic. I appreciate the offer. I'll let you know if I have problems.

Is the SF/FTP the best shielding then?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair

I already purchased this one, but I can get a different one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017BG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's definitely wired for pots. Buy an Ethernet patch panel like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

and replace it.

Then connect your router or switch and away you go.

This is your best bet https://www.amazon.com/100FT-ETHERNET-INTERNET-ROUTERS-GAMING/dp/B001BJTDH0

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

ethernet cable

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

>RJ-45 coupler

I actually meant one of these

I'm not using pre-formed cables, I'll be crimping the end myself, but for joining the two cables I was evaluating options. Right now I see options:

- using tape

- these

- RJ-45 coupler + 2 rj45 connectors

- using a keystone jack + rj45 connector

​

Thanks for the pointers!

Panel panel is great recommendation

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/

Just need a 110 punch down.

If you're dead-set on terminating with male ends instead of punching them down, try this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

More pricey, you need their special tool but it'll be the last one you'll buy.

Otherwise, do what everyone else said. Punchdown tool is like 10-15 online for a decent one. Jacks are cheap.

Tripp Lite SR4POST25 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack - Amazon

This works great, especially with the wheels.

Also get 6 copies of ts2

You need 6 ps2's just make sure theres a ethernet port in the back of them heres a picture example:


You also need 6 long ethernet cords: https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Direct-ETHERNET-INTERNET-ROUTERS/dp/B001BJTDH0

You need to use a ethernet splitter so you can connect all the consoles together to play with one or another: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6?SubscriptionId=AKIAJIHYZLYWAGQWSMGQ&tag=blazlist-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00A121WN6&th=1

Basically, he's saying to buy some ethernet testers ( http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O/ref=pd_cp_pc_0 ) and plug one end into the wall in one room, and go around the house testing all the other outlets to see where that outlet is connected. If you're never able to get a connection from one port to another, you likely have a cable problem and would need to have it re-run. Otherwise, you may have great cabling but just need to know how it's laid out.

As far as the coax, it appears to be possible, based on a quick google search, but looks like it might be a bit of work.

You don't need anything fancy. If you want to terminate the cable yourself (Better for custom length runs) just standard CAT6 UTP is good here is a link to 250' of cable. Here is a pre-made 50' CAT6 cable, though if you're running a cable through the ceiling it would be alot safer to make your own cable. The only reason to get shielded twisted pairs (STP) is if you're going to be running a lot of cables next to each other or running cables in a place with lots of interference, above fluorescent lights for example. Be careful you don't underestimate the distance, you'll really regret it when you come up 5' short.

They are called "keystone patch panel" and "keystone jack inline couplers".

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Keystone+Jack+Panel%2C+24+ports&qid=1573167491&s=electronics&sr=1-3



https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=pd_sbs_147_4/140-9004642-5057103?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075ZPGV1H&pd_rd_r=232cd558-643d-485c-9024-c39bb931cd96&pd_rd_w=1YmK2&pd_rd_wg=dXn7q&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=583GG9F0ETTF1KEJZKWG&psc=1&refRID=583GG9F0ETTF1KEJZKWG

EDIT: Refreshed this old page and saw someone already posted a good patch panel.

It's not quite as bad as /u/Baneken says, once you get the hang of it.

But don't do that anyway. As others have said, you should have all the wires terminated to a single point, a wiring closet if you will. That termination should be to patch panel, like one of these, there are different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

At the wall, you'd have a single gang knockout ring (or a normal electrical single gang box, but the hollow low voltage ones are fine):
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UEAJWU&pd_rd_r=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5&pd_rd_w=mXEmp&pd_rd_wg=qvgXv&psc=1&refRID=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5

Then a bunch of keystone jacks and a wall plate.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Punch-Keystone-105384/dp/B019WKW9U2/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498906038&sr=1-8&keywords=keystone+jack

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-106727-2-Hole-1-Gang-Keystone/dp/B002DI48NM/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DI48NM&pd_rd_r=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV&pd_rd_w=DssNH&pd_rd_wg=JmKLq&psc=1&refRID=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV

To go from the wall or from that patch panel to your equipment, you'd then just buy a pre-made (stranded) network cable.

There are some different rj45 jacks, which are designed to make the job a lot easier, but between the tools and the connectors being $2 each, it's not worth it. Those links are just for reference, so you can see what I'm talking about.

If your guy is just throwing rj45 jacks and letting the cables dangle like that out of a hole in the wall, then he has no idea what he's doing.

The way phone works is that one line in can feed all the other connected lines. Ethernet doesn't work that way. Ethernet is a point to point connection; so there must be one device on each end of the plug.

You would need purchase something like this to put inside the communication box. You would reterminate all the Cat5e wires that are inside the communication box into the patch panel. Then you'd need to check the wall outlets to make sure they're wired the same way. Then you could put a switch or whatever inside the communication box to use them as ethernet ports.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FI9VU2/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

These Rj45 connectors allow the cable to pass through the end, which u then crimp and cut automatically with a crimp specific tool. However they seem to be so so on quality, but it's a good concept.

As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.

Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.

Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.

If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.

A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.

Just buy something like this . It even comes with little holders to attach it to the wall to route it. Should blend in fairly well.

2.4 GHz works best over long ranges.

5.0 GHz, while faster, is only for short distances.

So depending on how far away you are from the router, this could explain the loss of internet on 5.0 GHz.

https://support.stuff-fibre.co.nz/hc/en-us/articles/226438147-What-is-the-difference-between-2-4-GHz-and-5-GHz-

Also, try using a wired Ethernet cord. This will give you the max speeds your ISP allows. They are cheap on Amazon, 50 ft for 10$.

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

Yes exactly! Get everything on Amazon and save your self a lot of money.

Examples:

Mediabridge Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable (50 Feet) - RJ45 Computer Networking Cord - Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W26TIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uimkybBX78TPQ

Securifi Almond - (3 Minute Setup) Touchscreen Wi-Fi Wireless Router / Range Extender / Access Point / Wireless Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087NZ31S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ujmkybTBWMKSK


Of course research for your self but these are two highly rated options I found in 30 seconds.

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

Are you talking about rj45 connectors? You can get a bag of 100 for under $10 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/

The pass-through rj45 EZ are getting popular because people can't crimp properly anymore. Though I don't crimp anymore myself either. It's punched down into a keystone or patch panel and just get pre-made cables. Cables are too cheap to mess around making your own.

Just about all of your premade network cables are going to support CAT 6 / CAT 5e / Cat 5. Here is one at Amazon. I don't know what kind of length you need, but they have different lengths.
I run my Xbox One off of wired and I have no issues. I trust a cable over wireless.

That's actually really cool. Unfortunately I only have one like this, although mine does BNC as well.

The below combination works to extend where your vive plugs in by 50 ft with no added latency (i use it). I'm not sure if the 100 ft would work as well.

Cat6 Snagless Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 50 Feet

IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over

Monoprice 50 ft Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed Premium HDMI Cable

Edit: Total price is just over $100

Something like this. You may need two. It’ll allow you to mount it in your panel, then you can run patch cables to wherever your router/modem will be.

Edit: the one you linked can also work, haven’t personally used that type in a panel.

Another option, but very much inline with what others have suggested, a 12 port wall-mount patch panel:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466764939&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+12-port+wallmount+cat5e+patch+panel+568b+rj45+ethernet+n050-012

They come with their own mounting bracket and might be a little easier to work with in your situation. You won't have to buy any extra pieces to make that work in your wiring closet. Also, much cheaper (per port) than the Leviton equipment you were first looking at.

if you need to get a Ethernet cable I would go with at least a Cat5e (since you wont be using anything that will require more then that can support). They're pretty inexpensive now, you can get a 25ft for ~$8
Amazon 25ft cat5e

So that's actually called a Leviton Media Enclosure, or a very similar knockoff. Looks like someone didn't fully know what they were doing, or was planning on using biscuit jacks, either way they left too much unsheathed.


As for your concern about the patch panel, try this. It's designed for those.

Also, try this for that splitter job going on.


Edit: Didn't even realize these existed.

Edit: I REALLYYYY wanted to make a comment about everyone calling these contractors lazy, but wasn't sure leviton made blank patch panels for these enclosures, they do. This could have been intended for one of these to go in. I know I'd never heard of them until a Texas Roadhouse had me use one during the rack refresh, now I recommend them to everyone, they make my life so much easier, and I can install pass through cat5's for those jerk wads that run pre-cuts (So i don't have to rerun) as well as coax keystones and more.

When you download something from the internet it comes to you from external to your home. Across your ISPs network from wherever it originated from. That's what your download speed effects. When you upload something it goes in reverse across your ISPs network and uses your upload speed. This is called a WAN or wide area network. And that is what you pay for access to.

Your ISP's network is how data is delivered to and from your home. It doesn't have anything to do with how data moves around inside your home. When you stream your Xbox to a PC the data is originating on your Xbox, which is in your home, and being transferred to your PC which is also in your home. That's why your upload and download speeds don't matter for streaming your Xbox to your PC. That data never actually leaves your home and travels on your ISPs network. It travels around your home on what is called a LAN or local area network.

The quality of your LAN determines how well you can stream from your PC to your Xbox and the quality of your WAN determines how well you can stream to YouTube. Some of the gear, like your router or gateway is used by both networks, some isn't. So if, for example, you ran a CAT5e from your PC to your modem and another CAT5e cable to your Xbox from your modem you would be able to transfer data between those two sources at 1000 Mbps (assuming your router isn't total trash) even though you have a much slower speed from your ISP. It doesn't impact potential data caps either since you aren't using your ISP to transfer that data.

The only thing that would reduce your upload speed is if your network gear couldn't handle the amount of data being transferred around your LAN between your PC and Xbox and through the WAN between your PC and Youtube. That is a possibility (though fairly remote) most decent routers are capable of handing tons of data.

Wifi is a problem because the signal can fluctuate pretty wildly. Even sitting right beside my wireless router I can watch the quality of streaming my Xbox to my PC fluctuate pretty dramatically. My guess is you are like most homes with minimal wired connections if any. If you want, you can comment or message me your router model and I can see if it's trash or not.

Here is an example of the ethernet cable you would need for your LAN chances are to wire your PC and Xbox to your router. You'd need two pieces and likely less then fifty foot lengths. it would probably cost you less then $30 to be able to stream high/ultra quality to your PC from your Xbox with few or no quality drops. You will have some input lag though, that is unavoidable.

Then you'd use something like OBS to capture your PC display and broadcast to Youtube. It's not conventional, but it does technically work. You'd likely want to stream at 720p probably 30fps because it's better to stream at a lower quality overall then it is to try and stream right at the edge of what your connection can handle. When you stream at the max you can theoretically handle you get drops in speed across your ISP's network and it can cause your stream to suddenly drop quality. It might blur up badly for a period of time, and some services (like twitch) will automatically cut your stream off if quality is a serious issue. Not sure if Youtube does that or not. The short and sweet of it is it is better to stream at a quality you can handle 100% of the time then one you can handle 80% of the time. Viewers notice that 20% of the time you can't handle it way more then the lower overall quality.

Is the problem that you only have one Ethernet port? As u/dageekywon mentioned a hub would probably be your best option. A wireless access point is another option and that would make things a little neater. For the distances you're working with any cable long enough will do. This looks like a decent option. If i'm not mistaken it's only when you're running line for over 100 feet that signal degradation starts to be a factor.

For permanent installs, I recommend using a patch panel. Cat5 ends eventually go bad, and you never want to rerun a cable. Other than that, it looks great.

Honestly, it seems possible to build a logger that is about the same size and shape as that jack and stuff it into an unassuming enclosure. Since transaction data doesn't take up a lot of space, it could just sit there for a week or so, sniffing up card info.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-100-Feet/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GWAHMHHHZSPDW2GG65P2

You're welcome

most cable testers will test each wire, lighting up if its good.


you will notice they are labeled 1-8 https://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O


plug one side in the tester and the other into the remote

What you are looking for can easily be found by searching Amazon for "tone probe" .

Even a cheap two piece cable tester would do the trick in a pinch.

http://amzn.com/B000P1OA1O

I ran CAT5e to the three bedrooms and to the entertainment center wall. One drop in the two small bedrooms, two drops to the master bedroom, and two drops to the entertainment center.

I terminated the rooms to Cable Matters keystones.
I'm using an Asus RT-N56U wireless router and a Trendnet TEG-S80g 8port gigabit switch with an Intellinet 12 port patch panel.
It's patched together with cable matters 3ft patch cables.
I have fiber internet service(no modem needed).

I had anticipated another cable run for a Ubiquity WAP, but after I tested the signal coverage from the Asus router it was not needed(full coverage everywhere in the house).

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DXM4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That looks like one of those old legacy punchdown style patch panels? What is the point of using those things compare to a regular RJ45 on both ends?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E2YCNA + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H/

Yes, my phone is connected via WiFi to the same router that I have an Ethernet connection with. This is the one I'm using.

It doesn't matter - go for Cat5/Cat5E will suffice. Unless you have devices that support more than 1GB/sec bandwidth, you can use Cat5. If you need 10GB/sec, then go for CAT6.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B001W26TIW/

Cat5 = 10/100 Mbps (10/100MB)

Cat5E = 1,000 Mbps (1GB)

Cat6 = 10,000 Mbps (10GB)

Cat6a = 10,000 Mbps (10GB)

I recently bought a crimper and tester. They're kinda on the cheap end of tools, but they work well (at least the crimper does, I only used the tester once).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1OA1O/

That's a no name brand. Get Monoprice, Mediabridge, Cable Matters, etc.
Here's a good example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NZHQDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_41xXDb77XMAQ2

Cat7 is not a real standard. Cat6 will work fine for gigabit.

If you can hide the cable the whole run under carpet. Getting past the archway will be easy with a fish tape https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56001-Strength-50-Foot/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480647857&sr=8-3&keywords=fish+tape With ribbon cable https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480648036&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+network+cable+100ft you wont even feel it under the carpet when standing on it.

Could do something like this as well.

https://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2

Looks like you have 12 ethernet cables there, this should do

http://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098133&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e+panel

I'll get another cable then. Is there a particular brand that you recommend? I've been using this cable.

Use a long ethernet cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-Feet-Networking/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501371690&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7800930011

Mediabridge Ethernet Cable (25 Feet) - Supports Cat6 / Cat5e / Cat5 Standards, 550MHz, 10Gbps - RJ45 Computer Networking Cord (Part# 31-399-25X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W28L2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GODSDbHYTJD77

use ethernet cable, thank me later

best 13$ of your life

These super flat Ethernet cable can work wonders if you’d like

Maybe you can get a long one like this?

Yeah ends are generally ends - cheap or expensive you can still f- it up. If you pay attention to your crimps, you should be fine even with the cheapo ends. Stranded vs solid matters more.

But if its all in-wall wiring, what OP wants is a PATCH PANEL and Keystone JACKS, no RJ-45 ends/crimps at all!

One set of options:

https://www.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6

Yeah that's no excuse...you can get really long ethernet cables for quite cheap on amazon and run it along your baseboards or under carpet.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=15DROMDR50XRM&keywords=flat+ethernet+cable+100+ft&qid=1566327625&s=gateway&sprefix=flat+ethe%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

you have 2 pcie x1 slots under your pcie x16 that your gpu is plugged in, it should fit fine. they are the short black little brackets. if you want to do bluetooth though you might have to give up one of your usb slots though

edit: but you can get a shitload of ethernet cable for cheaper and have a faster connection

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords - Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem - faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mq4jDbRN6Q4Z6

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-14-cat-6-network-cable-gray/6234011.p?skuId=6234011

Cat 6 50ft $10 Amazon
Cat 6 14ft $20 BestBuy

Just so you can see how much of a rip off it is

Crap! Just bought pretty much the same items (different brands) less than 24 hrs ago on Amazon.

Product|Price|

---------|---------:|
TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68|$14.35
Network Cable Tester|$4.17
TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade TC-PDT|$20.34
CableWholesale CNE16127 RJ45 CAT-5 E Crimp Connector Solid|$4.55
C2G / Cables to Go 27352 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, Grey (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters)|$99.85

Used CAT5E since CAT6 would be overkill for my needs and the budget is always tight.

Most of what lbstrange1 wrote is incorrect.

That is a 66 block. It is completely unnecessary unless you are planning on having multiple phone lines in your home. Pull off all of the wires and throw the 66 block away.

If you want to go the cheap route just crimp RJ45 male connectors onto the end of each cable. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to properly crimp them. Make sure you are using 568B configuration.

If you want to make it look nice buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SC6

Use the previously mentioned punch down tool to terminate the wires. DO NOT strip the wires first. Make sure you punch it down as 568B.

I'm willing to bet that your home builder's contractor installed RJ11 phone jacks throughout your home. If so you'll need these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00111AAZ2/

Install them at each wall jack location using 568B configuration.

Finally, you'll need a switch as was previously stated. However it does not connect directly to your modem. You need to connect it to your router.

You might also want to test each cable. If they're in the walls and you can't trace each cable individually and you don't know what goes to where from the basement, a tester might be worth getting

yeah I just noticed it on website
also
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003RCEAB8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1425369879&sr=1-3&keywords=ethernet+cable

being in an apartment, yeah, probably a lot more copper and noise between circuits.
personally, i run a 100' ethernet cable....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017BG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1