Reddit mentions: The best cat litter mats

Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)

> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?

That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.

I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.

Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.

> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?

Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.

> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?

The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.

> How do I train a cat?

Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.

> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?

Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).

Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.

Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.

Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.

And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.

Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.

Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!

Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.

Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.

I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)

Pretend as if you're about to adopt a very mobile, active toddler/baby human. Remember that, unlike dogs, cats live VERTICALLY! (They can jump and climb).


Try to look around your home and see any things the cat might get into/eat/destroy and tidy up those things as much as possible. For example, if you have blinds on the window in your room, you might want to tie up the pull-strings so a curious cat can't grab them, and tuck electrical cords away as best you can. If you have any houseplants, google them online to make sure they aren't toxic (a good place to start is https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/cats-plant-list ). Cats definitely won't stop themselves from eating toxic plants - my 19-year-old idiot decided the green onions in the backyard looked tasty one day and tried a bite, and my 1-year-old idiot had a go at a poinsettia I had inside (it has since been exiled to the backyard - the plant, not the cat!)


I also personally NEVER leave out any toys that my cats can easily rip up and ingest parts of - this means nothing small and nothing with feathers, string, leather, or straw. Cats can get VERY sick and die if they eat string/"linear foreign bodies".


I only leave out sturdy "interactive" toys that the cats can initiate play with on their own, such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Crazy-Circle-Interactive-Large/dp/B0002AT5AO

https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-317-Tower-Tracks-Chase/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1487151213&sr=1-1&keywords=tower+of+tracks


Putting normal toys away when it isn't "playtime" also helps keep the cat from getting bored with the toys. And cats CAN be curious about the strangest things - they'll want to open cupboards and knock things off tables and investigate every box and bag that comes into the house. So if anyone in your house takes medicines, make sure the bottles are closed very firmly, and put away in a cupboard, things like that. If you have things that you collect (like statues or figurines) or if you have anything breakable, make sure it isn't sitting on a table where a cat can paw it off onto the ground! A cat will paw at/investigate everything. You can't protect them from everything, and no one can put away everything in their lives, but you can take a few precautions.


Another general word of advice I can give, and it's perhaps the most important one, is do not feed her kibble. No kibble at all. Feed her canned food only (preferably grain-free). Kibble is terrible and leads to a number of health problems, including urinary tract problems, kidney problems, and chronic dehydration (which leads to constipation). Long story short, for the best health, cats should be fed a grain-free canned formula high in meat protein, which is closer to their normal, natural diet, and no kibble whatsoever. Even the worst canned food is miles better than the "best" high-quality gourmet kibble. Kibble has no benefits at all. It is worth the $$$ to feed a canned food diet, you will save money in vet bills and dental cleanings overall.


If you are interested, the reason for wet food is this - cats have a very low thirst drive, as they evolved from desert-dwelling animals, and have changed very little after our "domestication" of them - genetically and physically, they're still pretty much 99% their ancestors. A wild feline is designed to get almost all of its moisture needs out of its prey (meat, blood) and thus has very little "urge" to drink. Even if you think a cat is drinking enough, it's not. Any cat on kibble is in a state of dehydration - they simply do not drink enough to make up for it.


The other benefit of high-protein, grain-free canned foods is that they have actual MEAT proteins, and will provide good, usable nutrients to your cats, instead of useless bulky grains and carbs. Most kibbles are mostly grains, which means they pass through the cat's digestive tract without being digested. The cat derives no nutritional value from them. On a good meaty canned food, cats will eat their meals and feel more appropriately full, because their bodies are able to actually digest the food they're eating. With kibble, especially free-fed kibble, a cat will always eat more than you realize they are, because they can't digest half of what they're eating, so they constantly feel hungry, because they're literally not getting the proper nutrition from their food.


Also - having cats on a species-appropriate diet will have one other benefit. Their poops will smell a LOT less! (On a raw diet, the poops will be small, dry, whitish, and they will have no smell at all. No joke. I can stick my entire head in the litterbox seconds after my cat drops a deuce and I can't smell a thing.) Cats bury their waste instinctively to protect themselves from being found by predators and competitors (other cats), so their bodies are designed to digest protein very efficiently and thus they will produce less waste and less smell when on an appropriate diet. And every cat owner wants a less stinky litterbox!


Fish is not an appropriate diet for cats - do not feed a food that is primarily fish or high in fish. Cats build up mercury in their bodies far faster than humans do, since they are smaller, plus fish causes other issues: http://www.littlebigcat.com/nutrition/why-fish-is-dangerous-for-cats/


Get vet checkups at least once a year (including dental checks/cleaning), and have her microchipped and have her wear a collar with ID tags at all times, even if you intend for her to be fully indoors. I have two friends, one in Arizona and the other in California, both who refused to put collars/ID tags on their cats because "oh, they'll never get out!" (One friend didn't even spay her cat, she was THAT convinced the cat would never escape.) Of course, both sets of cats got out - in Arizona through the carelessness of another family member, and in California as the result of a burglary that left a window smashed. One friend only found one of her cats. The other found hers, but the cat had gotten pregnant in the meantime. So, all cats should wear collars and ID tags, because no matter how careful YOU are, bad luck still happens!


Make sure you familiarize yourself with foods that are toxic to cats and keep them away from the cat - these include xylitol, chocolate, onions, garlic, and alcohol. As I mentioned before, many houseplants are toxic as well, such as poinsettias and lilies. Citrus fruits are toxic to cats. Many "essential oils" are also toxic to cats, so if you or anyone you live with uses scented oils or essential oils (such as tea tree oil), be careful.


Don't use a covered/hooded litterbox. It is inhumane for the cat - it's like asking the cat, who has a much more sensitive nose than ours, to use an unflushed public toilet that is located inside of a closed phone booth. Even just ONE other pee/poop in the box turns a covered box into a festering stinkhole for a cat's sensitive nose. Just think about it objectively - would you want to use the toilet if you hadn't flushed it the last time you went? Just scoop often - at LEAST once a day - and you will not have stink problems.


For the same reason, avoid "scented" litters - the scent may be nice to us, but cats aren't into "Fresh Linen" - it's just an overwhelming chemical cacophony to their noses.


I've used two brands of litter exclusively for years - Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra, and EverFresh Unscented with Activated Charcoal. The EverFresh is what I use with my indoors cat, and my outdoors cat uses the Dr. Elsey's. My younger (indoors) cat also goes to my office three or four days a week with me, and I use the Dr. Elsey's in her litterboxes there (again, no stink buildup there either). I have been supremely happy with both brands. You really get what you pay for to a certain degree with cat litter. Cheap litter is going to be cheaply crappy.


But on the flipside, those super fancy "special" litters - like the ones made from pine, corn, wheat, or newspaper - can be hazardous, as they provide a substrate for bacteria to grow when the cat urinates on them. There's zero chance of that with clay litter.


Here are the activated charcoal bags and "odor absorbers" I use near my litterboxes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZLV7BH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006975FTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145KS23W/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You may want to get multiple litterboxes. The "general rule of thumb" is one box per cat plus one. Scoop every day! You can invest in rolls of "doggie-doo bags" like these - https://www.amazon.com/Bags-Board-Waste-Pick-up-Refill/dp/B000UCU53U I open one bag and put it next to me when I'm scooping the box. I drop the poops and pee-clumps into the doggie-doo bag, then tie off the bag and toss it! It helps keep stink to a minimum inbetween trash pickup days, and it's more sanitary than just dumping the bits straight into the trash can.


I also have my litterboxes on litter mats. They will save your sanity. This is my favorite one so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUU90K0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A litter mat REALLY helps "catch" most tracked-out litter. I've also got one of these mats, which is great for its size but isn't AS easy to clean:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PHLNRA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That's all I can think up off the top of my head for now :} I'm definitely no cat expert, but feel free to ask any other questions you might have!

Crazy cat lady here, I have four in my apartment. Unless they are lying to me, everyone that comes over is always shocked I have cats because it doesn't smell like it "should". I have two air purifiers in the house these and I have this one that sits directly on top of the litter box. I've had my four cats around 10 years and also fostered probably about... 30. So I feel like I've tried it all and I finally have a good ritual and set up. I use this litter box because it's big and tall which they prefer but also easy to get inside when it's time to clean. I use this track mat because so far it's really done the best to keep the litter from traveling far from the box. And like you, I clean it 2-3 times a day. The litter that is. I use this litter which is LIGHT YEARS better than anything else I've ever used. One of my cats also has horrible allergies and this is the one litter I've found that she doesn't react to. It also doesn't dust so you don't have to constantly feel like poofs of litter are showing up around the house or on the carpet or furniture. I also vacuum every single day. I have one vacuum I use for the floor where there may be litter tracked and another I use that never touches litter. I think this is fairly important. This vacuum honestly is the best I've found for hair. Miracle worker. Unless you can afford the Dyson Animal. I also have this spray that I'll use for my carpet and fabric once a month or so and I feel like it makes a huge difference. And then lastly I also keep windows open whenever I can and I have this diffuser and put oil in it a few times a week and let it run for a bit, plus it looks cool with the lights :) Oh! and one last thing that I think is great... put one of those cardboard scratch pads near the litter box so the cat has to step over it to get anywhere else. Like off the track mat but near the box. I do this and all the cats inevitably use the scratch pad for fun when walking by it but I'm convinced it also cleans their paws from any litter left over before they start walking around the rest of the house!

Hi! Just wanted to add:

Best thing I ever invested in, was a cat tree! My cat absolutely loves it and I can't image our lives without it. Cats feel much more secure in their environments when they have higher ground they can get to. Here is an amazon link to a great brand: https://www.amazon.com/Armarkat-B5701-57-Inch-Tree-Ivory/dp/B003BYQ100/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474819240&sr=8-2&keywords=armarkat+cat+tree

Also, to combat an litter box issues, I would suggest investing in a nice litter pad for accidents or for tracking litter out of the box. I just bought this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUU90IW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It is pricey, I know, but it has made the clean up process so much easier.

Also, please please please invest in some quality cat food. I might get some flack for this from other Redditors, but quality cat food makes a difference (I have found that there is a heated debate about dry versus wet food and whether brands really make a difference). I have chosen to err on the side of caution and buy high quality food to prevent any future health problems. From the research I have done, a combination of dry and wet food is best, and it is not ideal to simply provide dry food for cats, since cats need to get water intake from the food they eat. Here is a good article suggesting some good brands (http://www.reviews.com/cat-food/).

TGIF

Today(Firday), my wife and I are traveling to go see my family. My grandmother's birthday is today and we are going out tonight to celebrate her turning 82! We will eat yummy foods and be with family all weekend. We stay with my dad and brother and it's always nice to have a mini-vacation at dads. He feeds me and I get lots of hugs and yummy family time.

Hope everyone has a great Friday and weekend!

Thanks for the contest.

Micro crystal litter is my cat’s favorite, and mine because my apartment is totally odorless. It doesn’t clump, but it dries the poop and the urine out so that it doesn’t smell.
It’s also way less gross than any other kind of litter as it just looks like sand to the untrained eye and doesn’t stick to their paws. Pair it with this litter mat and there will be almost no litter tracking. CatGuru Premium Cat Litter Mat, Medium, XL, XXL, Waterproof Litter Box Mat, Non Slip Kitty Litter Mat, Scatter Control, Machine Washable Litter Trapper, Litter Tray, Best Pet Litter Mat, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ9XMZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ObRQCb7Z5XSFB

There are tons of different brands of micro crystal litter available. My favorite is pretty litter, which is a mail order/online only brand but it’s expensive. Next best is Exquisicat which is sold at PetSmart. (Just don’t buy the clumping version because it sucks.)

Highland Farms Select Cat Litter Mat - Cat Litter Box Trapper with EZ Clean Large ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07514PNFC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_ux4sDbPZE6F3D

this mat saved us liter, and mess!! Pour the liter back in the box. They make all different sizes and prices. But it’s nice. And fresh step febreze for my cat had the best clean smell. Kept the ammonia smell down. I mean within reason ;)

Yeah, you need a dome on those boxes. I have a litter mat in front of mine, but old carpet would probably work as well.

Edited to add: I bought this jumbo-sized domed litter box off Amazon a few weeks ago for a new kitten. It has a clear door flap on it but I fold it back to make it more open. The foster mom warned me that she was very messy with litter and this has done the trick. It's also, as I said, jumbo-sied. I've also been using this litter mat which I suppose is okay, I'm neutral on it. It does seem to work.

(I included some Amazon links to give you an idea since you mentioned Amazon, no affiliate links just the smile URL for donating to your charity-of-choice if you've set it up. You can get domed litter boxes cheaper if you click around, I just mentioned the one I got because I've been pretty pleased with it.)

> What brand is the best?

What sort of cat litter are your cats used to?

For example, my cat liked the clay based cat litter, and wouldn't use the wood or paper based litter. I used Tidy Cats with a litter box liner.

If your cats are used to a certain type of litter (like, your mom buys different brands, but it's always a clay-based litter), make sure you stick with that material.

I also used a covered cat litter box and a litter mat.

Finally, I scooped 2x/day: once in the AM, once in the PM. And that was for ONE cat. Overkill? Maybe, but my house never smelled of cat urine or poo.

As a rule, cats don't like to pee/poo where other cats have gone, so I highly recommend you get two appropriately-sized boxed, box liners, and litter, and see how it goes. You might get lucky, or you might need to get a 3rd box. And start scooping on a regular schedule: I scooped right before I went to work, and right after I got home.

This is the best mat ever. Traps all the litter, easy to clean.

Reformed ladynester here: the key to keeping clothespolisions curbed is multiple laundry baskets. One for semi-dirty "eh, I could wear this again" items, one for dirty laundry, and one for clean clothes (so you aren't putting restaurant grimy clothes in a basket, washing the load, then returning the clean stuff into the same basket.) I will also suggest getting a cat litter mat. This is the one I used before my kitty passed away. It isn't perfect but it curbs the amount of litter getting tracked around. As for cutting weed and cat box smells- grab a couple of boxes of baking soda. Put baking soda in the cat box (good couple of shakes at the bottom of the pan) and leave the baking soda boxes open. It'll help absorb the smells. (Source- former stoner, cat lover, fragrance fanatic.)

I know this is an old thread, but noticed you had a problem with "remnant paw litter."

I recently got a Litter Robot, and my cats and I love it, except for the fact that one is a litter kicker. She kicks the litter straight out of the robot, and all over the floor. It drove me nuts until I found this litter mat:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079G9665Y/

It's brilliant. It just catches all the stray litter inside, and you can pour it back into the robot or discard as necessary. Now all I have to do is empty the robot and the litter mat once or twice a week, and all is good!

Get a larger box.

Then get this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Blackhole-Cat-Litter-Mat-Rectangular/dp/B00G67FD6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397663457&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+litter+mat

I was amazed at how well it works at catching the litter, and then you can easily pour it back into the box.

I use this and this for my cat and it helps keep the litter pretty contained. I even took the door off the litter box because my cat didn't like it and the litter still isn't bad.

Try looking for a carpet protector for office chairs or an extra large cat litter mat. Not sure how big your crate is, but these options should work and be easy to clean.

Edit: As someone else noted, there shouldn't be accidents in the crate. But it is a puppy and sometimes accidents happen (or you get incredibly unlucky and get a pup who didn't get the whole, don't pee where you sleep memo. While it goes against most dog's instincts, there is the occasional pup that doesn't care.)

When we adopted our second cat, we had a similar problem until the second and third litter boxes arrived. You will alway have issues with the litter outside box, but the wet prints went away with us. We also lined the floor where there is a litter box with litter mats.

Easyology Premium Cat Litter Mat, XL Super Size, Light Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BWB7R0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Yxy9hvaNF2dS2

Like I want anything from YOU.

You shouldn't gift me because Momma always said don't take presents from strangers.

[Link] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UJW0W2/ref=aw_ls__6?colid=1ITN5DBBDFN5Q&coliid=I34XNO6P92KI7A)

Thanks for the contest!

devices like these are just about the only thing that works reasonably well. i have a a couple different types, one is a solid plastic tray that sits in front of the box, and this one that is a flexible mat with nubs that sort of brush the litter off the cat's feet. none solve all the problems if you've got a real 'flinger' but they a re sufficiently un-ruglike so the cat won't poop on it.

the other option is switching to pellet-based litter like Yesterday's News or Feline Pine, but these have their own drawbacks.

I’ve never found a litter that doesn’t track, but BlackHole mats work well in my experience. I used two. I’ll check for a link in a second. I prefer it more than anything else I’ve tried. The cats don’t mind walking on it and it’s soooo easy to empty.

BlackHole Cat Litter Mat

Our bengal had awful, stinky, runny poo for awhile too and it turned out to be the food. Initially we were feeding a lot of fish-flavor wet food, since that's what our DSH preferred. We now do fowl or beef 100% of the time and it's significantly better. We mainly feed Purina One Grain-Free, or Merrick Limited Ingredient Diet wet food. We only feed dry food maybe twice a week or so (we also choose only grain-free varieties). Not sure what will work for your kitties, but that's what worked for us.

As for litter tracking, I recently purchased these mats, which have been awesome. They are huge and contain probably 90% of the litter.

What about a mat like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGIH3YG It would help "brush" the litter off the cats feet after using the litter box?

Get one of these mats they are awesome. iPrimio Jumbo Size Cat Litter Trapper Litter Mat, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AUU90K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q9wQDbFK8AA1S

Blackhole Cat Litter Mat - Super Size Rectangular 30" X 23" - Blackhole Litter Mat (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5FO444/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M-OkzbG4V6DH3

I currently use Kat Kave boxes with a litter trapping mats. My litter is cats pride fresh and light unscented (clumping). The mats have been key to keeping the litter tracking to a minimum.

iPrimio Cat Litter Trapper with Urine and Odor Repellent Plastic Layer, 30 x 23-Inch, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0163NXEM8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_A-nSyb9WBYSFA

I really need to get a litter mat (it's on my wishlist "Pet Stuff") for my kitten..

C'mon...gimme. this

Thank you for the contest! You both are lookin goooooooood ;)

These are a little pricey, but I'd start with a litter mat of some kind to see if it helps.

If you keep the litter boxes away from the vents, that should be plenty, unless you have an unusual problem with your cats tracking litter around. You should also be able to remove the vent covers and vacuum up any litter that does fall in.

If you’re really worried, you could try one of these -

Premium Large Cat Litter Mat 35" x 23", Traps Messes, Easy Clean, Durable, Phthalate Free, Litter Box Mat with Scatter Control - Soft on Kitty Paws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YS9HI7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_En0xCbQ3SBYA6

I got one because the litterbox is on a tile floor, and I really hate stepping on little bits of litter when I’m in that room. The mat does a good job of catching almost any litter bits that my cat tracks out of the box.

I had something similar and it worked okay. It really wasn't tall enough for them so they always ended up going in the same spot with their head poking out the top hole. When they were done they would launch themselves out like a rocket spraying litter EVERYWHERE. Maybe if our cats weren't spazzes and daintily climbed out it would have worked better.

What I ended up doing was chucking those and getting [this litter box]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RQVGKC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (I'm sure any one with a front flap would do just as well) and I already had purchased these mats. I put the boxes in the corners of our spare rooms pointing at a wall with a foot or so of space between the box and the wall. This stopped them from running out of the box into the room making a mess and forced them to exit the box a little slower. It still doesn't catch ALL the litter, but the amount sprayed/tracked all over the room has significantly decreased.

This and this made all the difference in the world for me.

I have pads down around the litter box (I actually have these litter mats where you can slide the pads into the mats so they can be changed when they're used) but he'll sometimes go in his sleep on the bed or couch, or right next to the pads on the floor.

Litter Trapping Mat

You can pour the tracked out litter back into the litter box reducing wasted litter! It’s also a large size, but you could probably find an even bigger one of this design to cover more area around the box.