Reddit mentions: The best ceiling fan accessories

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

I solved this exact problem recently. Sadly my solution wasn't cheap, but it works really nicely (better than I expected tbh).

My needs:

• Ceiling light with dimmer
  
• Fan, adjustable
  
• Switch on wall to control dimmer, fan speeds and lights on/off
  
• Alexa integration
  
• Zero delay between using the wall switch and the fan reacting
  
  
  
  I couldn't find anything that used zeewave / zigbee, so I set up a parallel Insteon system. It was expensive, but it's way better than I had hoped. It's all immediate, the buttons have a nicer feel, aesthetics are nice etc. Hardware required was:
  
  
• https://www.insteon.com/ceiling-fan-controller (~$80)
  
• https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2245-222-hub.html (~$80)
  
• https://www.smarthome.com/2334-232-alt (~$80)
  
• Nicer keypad buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007S0CAMQ ($10)
  
  Discounts can be found on all of those, perhaps ebay etc, ymmv.
  
  ​
  
  If you go this route then here's some tips that I wish someone told me:
  
  
• The insteon keypad scene buttons default to being in toggle mode - you need to change this to always on (or always off, doesn't actually matter)
  
• The hot wire in the wall is connected to the keypad *and* the wire up to the fan controller (i.e. not in serial). The load of the keypad is just capped off. This means that the fan controller and the switch are always on. If you end up here please DM me to clarify if that doesn't make sense.
  
  ​
  
  I'd love to hear your solution once you figure it out - hopefully you can beat me on price.

Step one: don't pick an expensive snare lol

See the imgur album for close-ups



Tools you'll need:

1. Electric screwdriver/drill
   
   
2. Drill set for your electric drill (smaller sizes)
   
   
3. Small wood hacksaw or some way to cut a .75 X 1.5
   
   
4. Fine metal hacksaw (optional)
   
   
5. Measuring tape
   
   
6. Pencil
   
   
7. Sharpie
   
   
8. Pliers
   
   
9. Scissors
   
   
10. Wood file (optional)
    
    
    
    
    Find a cheap snare that looks nice and matches the aesthetic you're going for. Prefer a snare that already has an eyelet (most should). If you want a clean look, buy a new drum head. I think a worn-in look is nicer.
    
    
    
    Supplies:
    
    
    
11. You should be able to find all of the following supplies
    at any homedepot/lowes. I'd recommend bringing your snare with you.
    
    
12. Buy a low-heat light bulb (i.e. fluorescent) with the brightness and color you want. I prefer a warm white (2700k) bulb that puts out 500 lumens. Here's what I used: https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/202592/FC09-148545.html
    
    
13. Find the lighting section. They should have a DIY lamp kit section nearby. Buy a lamp socket housing with a pull chain; it might come in a kit, or on its own. https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Pull-Chain-Brass-Lamp-Socket-Housing-Aluminum-52204/203749539 The housing should fit a standard lightbulb, but might as well double-check. Also, make sure that the other end of the housing is threaded on the inside.
    
    
14. If the housing didn't come with a cord, then buy one of whatever color matches your aesthetic, and has an appropriate length.
    
    
15. For the threaded side of the housing, buy a matching threaded tube, a few inches in length. If you don't have a metal hacksaw, then you'll need to buy an exact length to center your bulb when it is in the housing. Should look like this, but a different size: https://flamcogroup.com/ex-en/catalog/flamcofix-fixing-technology/stainless-steel-mounting-material/stainless-steel-threaded-tube/threaded-tube-stainless-steel/groups/g+c+p+a+view
    
    
16. The threaded tube will end up being flush with the shell of the snare. If you want a different color, or if you want it to look fancy, then buy a threaded tube adapter with a matching size. Might look like this: https://www.barnes4wd.com/1-14-Right-Hand-Thread-Tube-Insert-For-1-14-Inch-ID-Tubing-_p_1091.html
    
    
17. Buy a pull chain. These come in many shapes and colors, just make sure it has one of those clippy things on the end, so you can attach it to an existing chain. https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-7721400-Lighting-Trophy-Rubbed/dp/B0042VQ4V2
    
    
18. Next, you'll want a length of wood to support the lightbulb. Find a .75in by 1.5in piece of wood that's a few inches longer than the diameter of your snare.
    
    
19. Next, you'll need something to hang your snare. Head over to the chain section, and find a chain of appropriate color and size. Use the machine to cut a long enough chain to hang with. You can always remove a section to adjust, but you can't add more later. Thick string or long, colored shoe laces can also work!
    
    
20. Buy a couple thick hook screws if needed.
    
    
21. Buy 4 screws with a color that looks nice with your snare (medium/appropriate size for the ends of the wood).
    
    
22. Buy a couple zip ties.
    
    
    
    Instructions:
    
    
    
23. First, take off the head of the snare.
    
    
24. Compare the wood to the inside of your snare. Mark with the pencil the appropriate length, and use the hacksaw to trim it down. Make sure the end is relatively smooth. You can always remove a bit more.
    
    
25. Next, you'll want some wood to act as a spacer so your bulb won't rest directly on the wood. Screw the light bulb and the threaded tube into the housing.
    
    
26. Compare the lightbulb assembly parallel/next to the wood, and determine the length of the spacer required to keep the bulb just off the wood. (The .75in width of the wood happened to be exactly what I needed.)
    
    
27. With the remaining wood, cut off enough for the spacer.
    
    
28. This is the point when you need to determine where the pull chain will exit your snare. Imagine your snare hanging from two of the tension rods at 11:15 and 12:45. Where do you want the eyelet for the pull chain? I think a off-center looks best, so I chose 4:30. Which two tension rods will be at the top of your lamp? Keep this orientation in mind for the following steps.
    
    
29. This is also the point where you need to figure out where the cord will enter the snare and where the wood will screw in. The cord can't enter near the snare strainer or the butt plate, so that's off limits. I chose 9 oclock for mine.
    
    
30. Next, you'll need to screw the wood into the snare.
    
    
31. Holding the lightbulb and spacer against the wood, line up the ends so that they match where the cord will enter. center the lightbulb along the depth of the snare.
    
    
32. Make sure both ends have the same depth, and mark their positions. Set aside the wood and mark more specifically the locations of the two screws per end.
    
    
33. Take a drill bit smaller than the diameter of the screws, and drill 4 pilot holes for each screw, as well as pilot holes in the wood (be careful to match the positioning.
    
    
34. Screw the wood to the snare.
    
    
35. Next, you'll need to drill a hole for the cord. Holding the lightbulb and spacer against the wood, align the threaded tube so that the whole assembly is parallel with the wood. Mark the snare where the center of the tube rests.
    
    
36. Find a drill bit that's a bit smaller than the threaded tube (or threaded adapter if you got that). You can always widen the hole, but you can't make it smaller.
    
    
37. Drill the hole. Check that the tube/adapter is very snug in the hole. Otherwise, try again with a slightly larger size. You might also consider using a wood file.
    
    
38. Next, you'll need to trim the threaded tube to the right length in order to center the lightbulb. You'll need a metal hacksaw for this, or a tube of perfect length.
    
    
39. Remove the adapter from the tube.
    
    
40. Position the bulb to be centered along the wood, sticking the tube through the hole.
    
    
41. Use a sharpie to note the length of tube you want, whether that be flush with the outside of the snare, or flush with the inside of the snare if you have the adapter.
    
    
42. Hacksaw the tube. You can always trim more off.
    
    
43. Screw the adapter back on, screwing far enough in to make it flush with the snare when the bulb is centered.
    
    
44. Now you're ready to assemble everything!
    
    
45. Take the end of the housing off (where the tube threads into).
    
    
46. Thread the cord through the hole in the snare, then through the tube.
    
    
47. Check which cord wire is positive, and which is negative. Cords often have some sort of marking or stripe to denote positive.
    
    
48. Connect each to the appropriate mount on the housing.
    
    
49. Plug the cord in and turn it on/off to make sure everything works.
    
    
50. Put the end of the housing back on.
    
    
51. Insert the tube into the hole and rotate the housing so that the chain is hanging down.
    
    
52. Place the spacer underneath the base of bulb and zip-tie everything into place tightly. Take another zip-tie, and tie in the assembly very close to the chain.
    
    
53. Shake the snare a bit or wiggle everything to make sure it is solid.
    
    
54. Trim the zip-ties.
    
    
55. Thread your pullchain through the eyelet in your snare.
    
    
56. Figure out how far you want your pull chain to hang, and then determine where the pullchain should connect to the housing chain.
    
    
57. Connect the two chains, double check where the pullchain hangs to, and then trim the housing chain if needed.
    
    
58. Test the pullchain, hopefully there isn't too much friction.
    
    
59. Thread your hanging chain through the two top tension rods.
    
    
60. Figure out how much chain you'll need, and then trim the chain using pliers.
    
    
61. Connect the two ends of the chains using the pliers again.
    
    
62. Put the head back on the snare.
    
    
63. Hang your drum somewhere, possibly using two sturdy hook screws. Make sure you screw into something solid.
    
    
64. Enjoy your new snare lamp!

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!

Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).

Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395673&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+smart+switch

I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).

For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.

My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Wave-On-Off-Smart-Home-Plug-Control-2-Outlets-w-1-Module-Works-with-Alexa-/361826630198

I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.

I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPA1-1LW-Capable-Appliance-Module/dp/B00JFF1WP8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395904&sr=8-6&keywords=leviton

Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:

http://wiki.winkathome.net/Main_Page

I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.

Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.

You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).

Make sense?

Hope this helps.

GE switches are what I recommend.
They have switches, On/Off.
They have dimmers, On/Off and dim brighten (hold up to brighten or hold down to dim not too hard)
They have fan controller. Four speeds, low, medium, high and off. (sorry, no reverse)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486773955&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&ref=plSrch

You might want to reconsider the double triple tap option. It nice to be able to control something unrelated using a "secret switch". Triple tap to restart a computer by chance. Triple tap to turn off all the light in your place.

I only have one of the homeseer switches and don't regret the purchase. My switch control the lights in our loft (on/off/dim/brighten), double tap controls lights that are connected to a plugin module. Triple tap is used to play a test sound that I use to test the volume of house alerts.

It's great that you are thinking of other folks who will be using the system. Not everyone wants to pull out a phone to turn on a light.

Edit.
I prefer dimmers to on/off switches. The light ramps up gracefully. Now, I find the on/off to be very jarring.

Motion sensors, I've found the monoprice units to be just fine. They've been reliable and include a temperature sensor. I've had a few of these for years and have yet to replace a battery. The best price I've found on theses.
https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/15271?maincategoryid=122&categoryid=12212&subcategoryid=1091804&cpncd=

Smartthings is a great, simple way to do this, but it will require buying the hub. Instead of a light bulb, I'd just buy a light switch like this one from GE.

This will allow an easy setup for "Turn on at Sunset and off at sunrise" and will also integrate with Google Home pretty painlessly. May not be the cheapest way to go about it, but it's certainly easy, and it will allow for adding whatever other smart-switches, security sensors, etc. in the future.

depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch

easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load

I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.

GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish

with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck


direct load good for 20amps

GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ

Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That's not nearly as bad as the wobble in my brother's fan growing up, and it lasted for over a decade before my parents replaced it as part of general upkeep.

First things first: make sure all the screws are tight, this includes both the screws holding the blades to the fan as well as the screws holding the motor to the downrod. That might just fix the problem all on it's own.

If it doesn't, do you have a kitchen scale? Take the blades down and weigh them - a normal "for people" scale probably isn't sensitive enough, but they shouldn't weigh too much for a kitchen scale. Label them by writing a number on them in magic marker -- on the top side! It's very easy to lose track of which blade is which. Since you have them down, also try and figure out the center of mass for each blade. Put a pen on the table/floor and try to balance the blades on them. Mark the center of mass.

Then try to figure out how to lay them out so that the weight on opposite sides of the fan is balanced as much as you can. Ideally you try to balance not just weight, but also mirror center of mass. That should probably help the wobble significantly. If there's still more wobble than you'd like, you can get fan weights - basically little bits of dense rubber with high strength adhesive tape on them. You use the little clippy bits of rubber to test out various positioning on various blades and when you're happy with it, just stick the weight to the top of the blade.

This is how you adjust the center of mass of the blades, but in doing so you also change the weight balance. It's a very annoying process of trial and error to minimize the wobble.

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

thanks for the reply.
couple questions. I do have the GE fan controller on a Gen 1 hub but they show up in my Wink as a dimmer (GE brand but no model number, just 'Dimmer'), not a fan.

1. Do you suggest I remove these devices and add them again (hoping they get added a fan now?)?
   
   If I take this route how do i add this so it's identified as a fan? I see options to add a GE switch (no GE fan or GE dimmer), and there is no option for GE fan switch under the fans section.
   I believe i added my fans like this back in the day but they show as switches. What changed that would cause these to now get added as fans? Is it possible Wink had an update which now identifies these as fans rather than dimmers?
   
   Is it not possible to force HA to identify these as fans (like i do in HomeBridge)? something like:
   
   "fan_ids": [
   248563

There are no SmartThings branded switches. SmartThings is a central hub that is capable of controlling a vast array of third-party smart home devices. When you link it with Google Home, voice commands to the Home will be sent to the SmartThings hub, which will then trigger the smart home device based on how you set it up in the SmartThings app.

For example, you have a smart light switch installed in your kitchen that is labeled "Kitchen Lights" in the SmartThings app. When you say "Hey Google, turn off Kitchen Lights" the SmartThings hub will trigger the smart light switch to the "off" position. No need for smart bulbs, just swap out your current "dumb" light switch for a smart one and you'll be able to control your light fixture.

I personally have several GE 12722 Z-Wave Switches installed in my apartment, which are controlled by SmartThings and Google Home. The light fixtures have regular, run-of-the-mill LED bulbs in them. I issue voice commands like "Turn on/off Kitchen Lights" or "Turn on/off Bedroom Lights" and the switches activate near-instantly. Delay can be measured in milliseconds. Much better than the laggy IFTTT.

Check out the Works with SmartThings page to see the vast multitude of smart home devices that can be controlled by the hub.

If you google "zwave switch" (not dimmer) you'll find tons. Not to sound mean, but did you try searching?

• This link has tons of different brands: https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-lighting/z-wave-wall-switches
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
  
  
• https://store.leviton.com/collections/z-wave/products/decora-smart-switch-with-z-wave-technology-dz15s-1bz?variant=33948827971
  
  
• Not in the first page of results, but I know of this one as well: https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-ws100-z-wave-plus-scene-capable-wall-switch?variant=20302954182
  
  There are also plenty of zigbee or wifi switches (not dimmers) out there as well.
  
  Also, if you want a fan controller that can handle both the light and the fan, you can put something in the box above the fan, though it looks like this one is discontinued. You may be able to find something similar:
  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100?keyword=206591100
  
  
  

There's not a lot of options that will support the switch/ fan combo. If you are running hue bulbs, you can just remove the light switch completely. Then use this:
New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K7HMAbVE4DSXS

It will require a z- wave hub, but if you have one already, it will give you smart control of the fan, and with the lights in the always on position you will just use your smart controls for those as well.

Yes! Thanks! I really appreciate that, you just saved me $40. I'll buy the Bundle to start and assuming it works out nicely I'll add in the extra switch afterwards. (And I see that if I later want those pedestals, I can get them for less than $10 each. Sweet!) Thanks again.

I have the Broadlink RM-3 mini and I'll be honest, if I had spent more than the $15-ish that I did, I'd be really upset with myself. Granted, I used it to control other devices (a TV, surround sound, and split AC), but it was very... Touchy.

In my bedroom, however, I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV

It'll eliminate the need for the IR blaster, and will allow you to control the lights separate of the fan--and vice versa (although, if the fan is "off" and you turn it "on," the lights come on too, so you then have to turn those off via your [Alexa, Siri, Google] if you don't want them on). Fairly easy to install; took me less than 20 minutes.

If that's too much, maybe the Harmony Logitech remote? I've heard good things about them, and they seem to work with everything.

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

• expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)
  
  
• Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.
  
  
• A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.
  
  I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.

Depends. Do you want to start automating your home? Or do you just want a solution to solve this particular problem?

Universal Thermostatic Ceiling Fan and Light Remote Control Conversion Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RJ8X0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_4uR9wbY5WD66W

I have that in my guest bedroom and it works OK. You key in a setpoint. It will start to slow the fan down as it gets closer to the setpoint eventually turning it off when it reaches the desired temp.

If you want to start automating your home, what would you rate your technical skills like?

So assuming you have seperate wires for light and fan motor, you need a smart switch for LEDs (assuming LEDs), and a seperate smart switch for fan motors. https://smile.amazon.com/MOES-Ceiling-Control-Compatible-Required/dp/B07HQ95N69/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=wifi+ceiling+fan+controller&qid=1555516380&s=gateway&sr=8-9

You can also get a smart universal controller, which is a little box you wire into the fan housing, and pretty much all fans are designed to fit one (hence universal). https://smile.amazon.com/NFS20Z-Enabled-Isolated-Fixture-Mounted/dp/B00WXLRF2U/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=wifi+ceiling+fan+controller&qid=1555516380&s=gateway&sr=8-15 The downside to this option is you can't control either from the wall switch (except on and off).

I haven't done too much looking, yet, but I do know that fans are usually 3 or 4 speed, so I'd look for switches that match (as opposed to ones that let you set any voltage). The motors are engineered to specifically run at certain speeds (it's a frequency thing).

For everything to work properly, the pull chains need to be set to max speed, max brightness. I recommend not adding the extensions that are often included, so people don't mess them up on accident.

I am legitimately curious. This is my setup. I bought a basic fan/light combo and hooked it up to one of these for fan control.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fYuMBbGS9JV7X

Then I hooked up the light to the matching zwave on/off. I can control both phone phone, wall or Alexa via smartthings. This was my test run before I set up the entire house like this. If there is a better way I am open to it.

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

I have the same thing. I logged into the SmartThings IDE and noticed that the Fan Dimmer that shows up correctly is listed as:

>GE In-Wall Smart Fan Control
>
>MSR: 0063-4944-3034
>
>manufacturer: Jasco Products

​

However, the one that Google Home shows as a Light is listed as:

>GE In-Wall Smart Dimmer
>
>MSR: 0063-4944-3131
>
>manufacturer: Jasco Products

​

Both of them were purchased from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTKQTTV

Chris Jackson's z-wave database shows the 3131 model as:

https://www.cd-jackson.com/index.php/zwave/zwave-device-database/zwave-device-list/devicesummary/281

>Manufacturer: Jasco Products
>
>Manufacturer ID: 0063
>
>Name: ZW4002 Device
>
>Description: In-Wall Smart Fan Control
>
>Category: HVAC
>
>References (Type:Id) 4944:3131

My guess is that SmartThings is reporting it incorrectly.

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff

A truly internet independent switch would be from devices with Z-Wave, RF, ZigBee, X11. And the more current switches would be the network connected ones from Belkin, TP-Link, etc (pretty much anything with HomeKit, Alexa logo on the box).

The best thing about Home Assistant is that is in completely platform agnostic, so you can mix and match as need. I personally prefer z-wave switches for physical light switches. Ones from GE and Linear have really good build quality. I also use GE for some mains as well. These GE are good. The 3-way switches that pair with these are also dead simple to install as well.

Beyond that, its reasonably safe to use Wifi switches as well. Most switches can be remain within your local network. You can firewall those devices from sending out. Or if you want remote control, you can also always put your home automation on a separate subnet.

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

I installed this switch for my kitchen fan/light combo that only has one set of wires going to the switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MOIDA8

There is a receiver that goes up in the canopy of the fan, and the wall switch works like a wired remote control. As far as I understand, it is constantly passing power to the control module, then uses the neutral to send commands from the switch that the module interprets and does whatever you say. It has independent power and dimming/speed settings.

Unlike a remote, there aren't any batteries, it always works, and it looks like a normal switch and not like you just stuck your TV remote on the wall.

A few things to note about it:

1. It says it isn't LED compatible, but it actually works totally fine with them.
   
   
2. The newer version does NOT have the same module, and wont work when you only have one set of wires going to the fan.
   
   
3. Some fans aren't set up to be speed controlled by the switch. The Hampton Bay fan we installed wasn't, until I rewired it to bypass the built-in speed controller. I am not 100% convinced that it is good for it to be hooked up the way I did, but so far so good.

This depends on if you currently have a Smart Hub yet or not. If you do, a simple and easy to use switch, would be the GE line of Z-wave switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491404479&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+z-wave+switch

However, if you don't have Wink, or Smartthings, and want homekit support, then the Lutron Caseta is probably your best bet. It isn't really complicated, it just looks that way at a glance. But its really just a dimmer switch.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

I have had great luck with these. Your electrician will be able to install them without problem and they will work well with just about all the home automation hubs.

Just as a disclaimer, I haven't spent much time with centralized solutions. How does the cost compare to smart-switches? I imagine the entire solution would cost quite a bit more.

I have 3 ceiling fans, 2 with Hue lights in them. I use this Lutron switch for all 3 ceiling fans. The description says it's meant for halogen bulbs and won't work with LED/CFL, but it works with mine. Only downside is that if you use the switch to turn on/off the light they flicker a LOT as they're turning on/off. Like a full on strobe effect for a couple of seconds.

It comes with a canopy module that you install in the junction box above the ceiling fan, which means you have to uninstall the ceiling fan to get this to work. There may be better solutions for this available now.

well, I just learned which did which, but maybe this is a more modern facet of ceiling fans... but I guarantee this isn't all ceiling fans... (also, I like the new ones that have a lightbulb and fan toggle at the bottom of the chains... like these: https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468058025&sr=8-1&keywords=ceiling+fan+chains+and+pulls

1. You don't mount fans to light boxes. You mount them to fan braces like this. They are SUPER easy to install.
   
   
2. When you do this, install a wireless remote control or a basic wall switch with remote (I use these) or a crazy voice-activated one like this. You have to do this BEFORE you mount the fan to the ceiling.

Looks like part of this set. It's a pretty cute way to easily tell the difference between the hanging chain controlling the fan vs. the light.

1. As long as it says "zwave enabled" or something of that nature it will connect to smartthings. All of the companies you listed above I have at least one of in my house all connected to my hub. Just look for the zwave logo.
   
   
2. Everything you've listed can be placed with my go-to switch:
   https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481592836&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave
   they're pretty inexpesive and reliable. There are cheaper, but I've had issues with some of them so I've decided to just go with these when I change out switches.
   
   If you have 3-way switches (though you didn't list any) you need the companion switch and some rewiring of the boxes. If you're handy it's not too bad. If you don't know the difference between the white wire and black wire, I'd spend some time on youtube before get too far into pulling the boxes apart.
   
   
   Another important thing to mention on the wiring front: If you have an older house, you need to make sure that you have a neutral wire in all the boxes that you want to put a smart switch in. Newer houses will have them because the electrical code was updated to require them - that wasn't in place (or followed) until 20-25 years ago.

The switched I used to control fan is below and have had no issues since installing. Again this is just for the fan though as all my fan fixtures in my home were wired to have lights and fan on a separate switches

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x0bbBb4TQTWNZ

The amount of air it'll move is honestly more important than a humidity sensor. If you want that functionality, just install a humidity sensing switch in the wall instead of a toggle. A sensor integral to the fan is just one more part to fail, and a switch is cheaper to replace than a whole fan. You want a fan that will move 1 cubic foot of air per minute per square foot of floor space at a minimum. If you've got a 7x10 bathroom, you want a 70 CFM or better fan.

Hm... that sounds like a good idea. I'd presume it just runs off the 110v line?

What I'd need to figure out is how to turn it on with the main fan.

Here is the one I have

From the switch to the fan, is a trio of wires, one of which is, I believe the controller signal... I'd probably have to tap the controller on the fan to have it directly controlled...

Alternatively, I guess I could run a patch off the other switch that only controls the lights over the sink... have it run from that?

Or, take it a step further, and use a humidistat with a timer to control the inline fan... something like this Leviton model maybe (though it has questionable reviews...)

Good to know. It's kinda a complicated scheme, but here's what you could do with a RGBW light.

First - run it hot like I suggested, with a smart bulb and a smart switch. The switch is bypassed, so only gets power but doesn't electrically control anything. The bulb could be Osram or LiFX - both work in one form or another with ST. The switch I would just do a smart GE switch (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2), since you're only interested in being able to turn the light on/off.

I would then make a virtual switch (https://community.smartthings.com/t/faq-creating-a-virtual-device/11282) named something like "movie time."

That movie time switch will be a sort of on/off for your scenes...When movie time is turned on, your light switch (when turned on), will make your RGBW bulb do a mood lighting scene. When movie time is off, your light switch (when turned on), will turn that light to 80% white. When turned off in either case, the light will turn off.

What about the siren scenario? That would be a separate CoRE piston linked between the bulb and your smoke alarm so that when they go off, the bulb does what you want it to no matter what the scene.

Make sense? It's all possible, what you want, it may just not be as mutable beyond what you're asking for - it would be more difficult using the pieces I mentioned to also have dimming, but maybe I'm overlooking an obvious option...

When you come up with a plan, and run into trouble, post back up. This all sounds simple to more seasoned users but I can understand it going completely over a new users head.

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0VwgAbD6D17PZ.

New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TXwgAb5Z1F42N

I added a fan to our bathroom (5x6), I went with a Panasonic 80CFM. It works great. I mounted it outside the tub/shower area in the middle of the bathroom. The fan keeps the condensation off the window and the mirror, although, some does build up directly above the showerhead. We have an older house and the ceiling in the shower is lower than the rest of the bathroom.

Also, grab one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3QQD64/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's no point of installing a fan if you dont turn it on...

Edit - get the Panasonic, super quiet.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sj1-BbZ9CRKJM

I have two of these controlling ceiling fans. They work great.

Hello, I use home assistant with a Z-Stick. The following ge switch works really well. Instant updates on the hass ui. I hope to this helps.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvUzzbDESE5HG

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

I'm in the same predicament. The main area lights in my rooms are integrated into ceiling fans.

I sent a message to Lutron about the lack of fan/light controls in their Caséta lineup, pointing out that they already have a perfect product for this in their Maestro line (Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Fan Control and Dimmer Kit). All that thing needs is to be integrated into Caséta and then it's perfect for HomeKit.

I'm hoping they'll address this early next year for CES or something.

Assuming you have a neutral in the gangbox that houses the two switches for each fan, I would recommend the following:

• GE z-wave plus fan speed control switch
  
• GE z-wave plus light dimmer
  
  Use the pull cords to keep the light switch in the on position, and the fan speed at maximum. After that, you can control the light and fan exclusive using the new switches, the Wink app, or GH/Alexa.

z-wave.

You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373746&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q

but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373786&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+outlet

So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.

Links:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068632&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068575&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+smart+fan+control

Actually, /u/PerestroikaPal has never seen one of these. It is called the Westinghouse FanMaster ceiling box, and the big one is rated for a 70 pound fan:

http://www.westinghouselighting.com/pdfs/products/0200011_im.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-0200011-Support-2-Cubic-Inch-Capacity/dp/B0002YV1Q6

Trust me on this. It works, and it works well. Mount your fan and make the connections. You'll be fine.

So currently, I have one z-wave fan speed controller installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTKQTTV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was looking at getting this one for the bedroom where I would prefer to have a remote (although it uses zigbee, it is supported by zigbee2mqtt which I am using):

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Wireless-Wall-Switch-68109/205846346?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-206591100-_-205846346-_-N

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Wink-Enabled-White-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100?cm_mmc=SEM%7CG%7CBase%7CD27L%7C27-20_CEILING_FANS%7CNA%7CDSA%7c71700000038715506%7c58700004243495124%7c39700035278826584&gclid=CjwKCAjwiZnnBRBQEiwAcWKfYoB74QoAKRuieWiAgpXCWa0EHvxcQRIh168qS5wm_M7SnFNPZb_YyRoCIZ0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

​

I would also highly recommend checking out the following two blog post:

Automating a Multi-speed Fan

Convert your pull-chain ceiling fan to z-wave

There aren't any exact z-wave replacements for a single gang, dual load lighting/fan speed controller like that. You do have a couple options though...

1. Leviton VRCS2 is a dual load single gang switch that can control 2 loads via on/off relay only, no dimming.
   
   
2. In a two gang box, install any zwave dimmer or relay for the light kit, and one of two ceiling fan speed controllers for the second switch - either a GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01. You could also just install an on/off relay for the ceiling fan, if you don't want speed control.
   
   Hope that helps!

/u/BreakfastBeerz is correct. Get a "fan control" z-wave switch so you can better control the fan since the speed is determined by voltage to the motor so this specific "fan control" is needed.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=36QO1KOU9KARE&keywords=ge+fan+control+zwave&qid=1562872139&s=gateway&sprefix=ge+fan+contro%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1

For that I would use a couple z-wave wall switches. Since it would be the easiest to implement. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Control, Speed ONLY, in-Wall, Includes White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287, White and GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294

Assuming you're talking about on/off switches like this one - Yes, you can! I've done it in my house.

I've been told that it's against code to use a dimmer switch to control a wall outlet, but I haven't verified that for myself.

With the three-way outlet, you'll probably run into the same wiring issues as a three-way light (i.e. three-way dumb switches work differently from three-way smart switches) but generally there shouldn't be any problem. Just buy the appropriate accessory switch.

FYI, there are toggle-style zwave switches now. They look kinda funky, but I actually like mine quite a bit.

No

If you have a switch for the fan and a switch for the light, you are better off with 2 zwave switches, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537134869&sr=1-4&keywords=ge+zwave+fan+switch

and

https://www.amazon.com/Repeater-Enabled-SmartThings-HomeSeer-Inovelli/dp/B01N235ROS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537134836&sr=1-2&keywords=inovelli+fan+switch


That would give you much better control over everything. For me and all my fans, I have exactly one control. So I need this to control fan/lights unless I want to run a secondary wire back (which I don't)

You can add a remote kit to any ceiling fan install then buy a Bond Smart Home puck. It learns the rf frequencies from the remote and makes your fan "smart "

https://bondhome.io

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1543293378&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ceiling+fan+remote+control+kit

Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.

Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.

This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry
http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-2&keywords=z+wave+switch



This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/2gig-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-Dimmer-White/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-4&keywords=z+wave+switch


Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination

You might think about a humidity switch like the one below. I have a couple, and they work great. Comes on when the humidity in the bathroom increases. You can turn them on manually, too, when the “issue” isn’t humidity.

Leviton IPHS5-1LW Decora In-Wall Humidity Sensor & Fan Control , 3A, Single Pole, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3QQD64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_31NlDbCCTX16K

I'm confused what you want. The GE z-wave switches work as a relay regardless if the light is on or off. It is a toggle panel so it is never "up" or "down". If you want to use the manually just click the top for on, or the bottom for off. All z-wave switches are pretty much like that. They click either up or down and then return to center. They don't disappear from the network just because the light is off. Are you saying you don't want the switch to turn the light off? Surely I am missing something here.

Why bother having a switch at all if you don't want it to control power to the light? That is what a switch does. It controls power to the circuit it is installed on. What else would it be useful for if it doesn't turn a circuit on or off?

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/

Ah thanks! Now just to be clear, I am replacing the existing switches with a zwave switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which has specific slots on the back labeled "line" and "load" (see pic).

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61lvZWDXnsL._SL1280_.jpg

Do I have to match up the correct wires here (line to slot labeled "line", load wire to "load" slot) or does it not matter?

Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.


https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484978461&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+12724

I use these for two fans in my house. They work fine and never had an issue. I do wish they had some display LEDs so you could see what setting (low led high) you were on. Other than that they work great.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FKG.AbWW6XQEJ

To my knowledge you aren't supposed to use a dimmer on a fan

Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)

These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.

I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.

Redwood: your idea is great for the light. If anyone here also wanted to control the fan speeds as well, this kit is reasonably priced:

https://www.amazon.com/Flower-Angel-Universal-Ceiling-Control/dp/B001I1M95E

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

I think the OP's solution helps with fans that are also lights if I'm not mistaken. It looks like a hack to control one of those universal fan remotes using the Arduino and SmartThings.

I'd love to do something similar as I have five fans in the house that I'd like to control separate from the attached lights. I can add these (http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E) but that doesn't get me z-wave.

We have them from Leviton.

Another option is to upgrade your bathroom fan to a unit with it built in. With this fan get a quieter, higher CFM fan that has options like light/nightlight and humidistat built in. In our situation I ordered the Leviton switch and a separate Panasonic fan without the extra functions.

Technically you can. But this is also assuming that you have a separate wire for the fan control to your wall switch. This way, you can have a separate ZWave switch to control just your fan.

Alternatively, if you dont have that separate wire for the fan control in your wall switch, I would just get a universal remote control for your fan and call it a day. (https://www.amazon.com/Flower-Angel-Universal-Ceiling-Control/dp/B001I1M95E)

Very very much so! Our bedroom light came with one and I freaking love that thing. You can get the conversion kit on amazon actually. We have the same remote, and the thermostat part is great for night!

Assuming your existing dumb switch doesn't control fan speed, you'll just need two standard z-wave/zigbee enabled smart switches. I use the GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch.

If you want to be able to control the fan speed from the wall, you could use the GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control, you will just no longer use the pull chain fan control (if your fan has one).

New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y0gNAb47CJ3KD

I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?

This is what you'd normally use for a fan: http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW

If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-BH234R-Outlet-8-Inch-Length/dp/B0007N738M/

(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)

The GE 12722 is a normal on/off switch, will work with a fan or light, on/off only. They work great, although there is about a half-second delay between when you tap the switch and the light turns on/off, along with an audible click, which is kind of annoying.

The GE 14294 is a dimmer control, works with dimmable bulbs only, cannot be used with a ceiling fan except to control the lights. Press and hold up or down to change the light level. They work well, but I get some weird buzzing from dimmable LED's when they're set to lower levels like 10-20%.

The GE 14287 is the only one compatible with ceiling fans to control the fan speed. Low, Medium, and High settings, which are described as anything between 0-33% being Low, 33-66% is Medium, and 66%+ being High. Also press and hold to increase/decrease speed. I've had no issues with these, they work great in my bedroom to control the fan speed.

I have 4 bulbs in lamps that aren't on a switch and these work well because you just leave the lamp turned on. I have one switch that controls a smart bulb and I am considering changing to a smart switch like this https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2 as it too easy for someone to turn off my bulb. I don't believe that the power drain is huge leaving the switch on at all times but don't have any equipment to measure the power usage.

If it's just a normal dual gang box then I'd just put two switches in. Also note that there's a specific switch for fan control. I have the same setup with one dimmer switch and one fan control in the same box.

Edit: See this topic about the fan control for a better explanation than what I could give.

These look like the kind of things you might be looking for:

Leviton RTF01-10W Decora Illumatech Quiet Fan Speed Control

Leviton RTD01-10W IllumaTech 1.5A 300W Rotary Combo Fan Speed Dimmer Control

Though you would need them to be 220VAC and correct amperage/wattage rated.

Do you have a model switch you recommend? I was looking at these but they seem pretty pricey

When you say triggered, do you mean like when someone breaks into your house?

I have it currently setup so that when I get home, the garage door opens (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Controller-Works-with-Iris/50213045) and my interior lights turn on.

To get the lights to work, I have GE Z wave switches (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) and some GE Link LED bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Connected-60-Watt-Equivalent/dp/B00NOL16K0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478189524&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+link).

I don't have any Hue products (yet) but I believe they require a hub to allow them to communicate to abode (not sure though)

I have 3 of the Hunter fans. They replaced older RF remote based fans that all had in wall mounted controls. I replaced them with a Hunter control that wires in the same way and works great with the fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLM8LBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.

I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.

Sorry, by fan controller I mean basically a switch that would require a hub. For example you could get this z-wave switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2VSKBbVYZQZJ6

And a smartthings hub (or rpi with home assistant). Like I said, I recommend this approach in particular if you want to get more into home automation.

>one or two pieces get out of sync. It's easily fixed but annoys my wife.

What's the easy fix?

Also I recommend these switches from GE. You can choose the different types of styles right there on the Amazon page.

I've used GE smart switches all around my house and been happy with the result. This is the basic type, but the whole product line works with SmartThings.

I don't have an alarm/siren, but the list of officially supported devices includes a couple of different options for sirens.

They make fans that sense moisture and turn off after the room/vent/ducts are dry.


Humidity sensing fans on Amazon.

Those are mostly over $100, but here's a switch that senses moisture and automatically turns on the exhaust. Pretty cool, I didn't know this existed until you asked! Now I'm totally getting one.

For dusk to dawn you can buy a $8 sensor from Lowes. I know it's fun to have everything on the Abode hub, but if all you're going to do is dusk to dawn, the sensor is easy. I have these on all exterior lights.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Woods-Hard-Wire-Photocell-Mini/999912897

Or you could change the light switch that controls the outside lights to a Zwave switch four about $38 and control it that way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The biggest issue that I kept running into while trying to think this through - how do I keep power going to the hue or cree bulbs if the switch is in off position? The only workaround was to install a zwave on/off switch that would first trigger to ON and then enable the smart bulb. But then I realized that would double the cost of the setup. Another option was to use a z-wave inline switch that continuously provides power to the bulbs and also lets you toggle the switch. But then I would be tripling the cost. So finally I decided that I would go with just a set of zwave switches with dimmable LED bulbs.

If you want dimming capability - GE has zwave switches specifically marked as 'Dimmers'. They have several models. Fan Control, Dimmers, 3-way, 3-way add-on and also a simple ON/OFF switch.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480974778&sr=8-2&keywords=GE+z-wave+switch

Have you considered using one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WEIJ8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a few fans in my house that replaced lights, and I was not about to fish romex up walls and across ceilings through joists, etc. I got a few of these, and they work awesome.

In the spirit of LED related advice: replacing your ceiling fan bulbs with 60w LED equivalents makes a world of difference in lighting quality in the room. But so far the only candelabra LEDS I've found that don't have interference issues are the Philips bulbs. Best upgrade I did was to put Philips LEDs and the Lutron Maestro controller on all our fans. Separate control of lights and fan, and the Philips LEDs dim fairly well.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K-cuyb0AP1JZN

Philips 458687 60W Equivalent Dimmable B12 Decorative Candle LED Light Bulb with Warm Glow Effect (4-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191YKS0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_daduyb5K0AK1R

Note: I tried the LOHAS bulbs and their brightness and color temp choices are excellent, but horrible interference. Couldn't operate the Lutron switches if a LOHAS bulb was switched on. If you don't have any devices where interference might matter, check out the LOHAS bulbs.

I control my lights the same way you want to, and I use these they work great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1449077425&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=z+wave+switch

I put in these switches when i rewired mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501788305&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+ceiling+fan+dimmer

You can control them independently and even dim and change fan speed. Quite nice.

right here on amazon is where i got mine. i like them. they have a nice weight to them.

Nabbed this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-IPHS5-1LW-Humidity-Sensor-Control/dp/B00H3QQD64?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

They're right that they can be a little finicky but I don't have any issues with the 2 that I bought. We have rocker switches next to them so they fit nicely in the covers we got

Yes, something like this: www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

using this one


Looks like yes they do

The device in your picture is called a 3-gang plate.

My solution when I needed to do this in my home was to get a Samsung Smartthings hub. It's compatible with Alexa plus a ton of other stuff so it's a sensible purchase. I highly recommend it.

Once you have Smartthings, you can get any z-wave or zigbee devices and they can be controlled either through the Smartthings app or through Alexa.

GE Z-Wave switches: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/

3-Gang Paddle plate:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000V2UMU/

I just did all 3 bedrooms in my house with this:
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Thermostatic-Ceiling-Control-Conversion/dp/B001RJ8X0M/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41WNDd2QxYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=165QQHATDRWQX9HPEW10

Its half the price, light dimmer, built in thermostat and better light timer...

oh well. each room gets its own thermostat this way.

There are some screw-in Z-Wave devices like that, but some of them have issues depending on what type of bulb you're using.

If the light is controlled by a switch and you have relatively modern wiring with neutral wires present in the switch box, you could also potentially use a Z-Wave switch like this.

> I took the multimeter I just bought, set it on AC/V, took the caps off the wires in the picture, touched one probe to one wire and touched the other probe to the other wire. The display read approx 120.

I wonder if that was just induced voltage. The light wouldn't work because there isn't a neutral in that box but the multimeter shows voltage. If there was a ground in the box and you touched the hot wire and the ground, you would get 120 or so volts.

If there isn't a neutral in the box then you could use a switch to 1.Turn on the light while turning on the fan with its pull chain/string. 2. Turn on the light and the fan with the switch. 3. Turn on the fan while turning on the light with its pull chain/string(not recommended). 4. Buy a remote control.

Make sure power is fed into ceiling J-box first and switch end is a dead end. Turn off the power and look into ceiling J-box. I think you have what on this page they call end-line switch. It's common.

Just a thought... Have you considered using a fan that employs both a humidity sensor and motion sensor simultaneously (e.g.)?

Alternatively, you could use a standard exhaust fan, combined with a humidity-sensing switch (e.g.). The switch contains an on/off button, so you can still control the fan manually.

I'm all for DIY and in most cases even prefer it over when something is available in retail but I think in this case something like this https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-IPHS5-1LW-Humidity-Sensor-Control/dp/B00H3QQD64/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539796211&sr=1-1&keywords=humidity+fan+switch just seems much more sensible

You can still get light and fan control without a pull cord if they only ran a single hot. Just buy a fan with a remote, or add one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-7787500-Wireless-Ceiling-Control/dp/B000WEIJ8O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542312275&sr=8-4&keywords=westinghouse+fan+remote+control

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WEIJ8O/

This is what I use when I don't have two switchable hot wires for a ceiling fan. Also, make sure the box is braced while you have it down.

This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48

With a standard ceiling fan, I set the fan on high at its switch/pull chain and this can make it high/med/low

/b

I kept forgetting to turn on/off my porch lights so I installed GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch, In-Wall, 12722 and enabled two IFTTT recipes If sunrise, then turn off Porch Lights switch and Turn on lights at sunset. It's fantastic.

It's definitely a switch and not a dimmer (specifically this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjFwybQJGCRY8), leaving the light in didn't help, and the light works (comes on instantly) since I put the original switch back in place.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1000475413.html?eid=PS_GO_140203__ALL_PLA-526641&pid=1000475413&gclid=CjwKEAjwguu5BRDq8uSKhaKIzDkSJACQ7WJl-jjGMIUC3sIbiacTETanNkIBLTR5d0TL3SGUThNRXRoCghnw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-7787500-Ceiling-Light-Control/dp/B000WEIJ8O

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Wireless-Wall-Control-68109/205846346

Just search wireless fan control. There are probably 100 other options as well.

Just to make sure you aren't trying to reinvent the wheel. Well this work for your purposes http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-IPHS5-1LW-Humidity-Sensor-Control/dp/B00H3QQD64

They're usually wireless. Well controlled wirelessly at least, but wired into the power and load for your lights.

Switches that use the Z-wave wireless protocol are probably the most common. They all require a Z-wave hub of some sort to control them. These are all basic on/off switches, but there are dimmable versions as well that require dimmable but not necessarily smart bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/HomeSeer-HS-WS100-Z-Wave-Scene-Capable-Switch/dp/B01DFSAAJ4

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-GoControl-WS15Z-1-Zwave-Switch/dp/B00E1OQN8Y


There's also some that connect via standard wifi and can be used via an app without a hub, although without a hub or hub software like Home Assistant you are still limited in how you can automate them:

https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Light-Switch-enabled-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU

You can change any household light fixture for any other. The only issue is the footprint of the fixture. You may have to do a spackle repair or paint the area that was once covered by the fixture but no longer is. You may also have to install an appropriate mounting box depending on how the flouresenct was installed; Flourescent fixtures are typically not mounted on a box whereas flush mount fixtures are. You won't have to damage the ceiling to switch from one to the other. If it's gonna be an actual chandelier, you'll want a box that's made to handle more weight, like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00027EWNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1412468766&sr=8-2
This box can be installed from below through a hole which is the same size as the box itself.

There's this and this if you're looking at putting them to good use.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38/

https://www.amazon.com/MOES-Ceiling-Control-Compatible-Required/dp/B07HQ95N69/

???

don't see why it would be any different than controlling a ceiling fan.

I posted before but just thought of something.

You can do two things to solve this relatively easily.

1: Buy a new fan that comes with a remote, mount remote on wall where you want switch.

2: Buy a remote module and add it to your current fan.

This wouldn't help with automation in the future much, but solves your current problem!

That's just an on/off switch - full fan control with speeds is not supported by the caseta line.

Edit: for example, this GE z-wave fan switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/

If buying from amazon, always use Smile:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM

edit: also, $2 cheaper from Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Harbor-Breeze-7-in-Brushed-Nickel-and-White-Metal-Pull-Chain/4745127

Since you already have SmartThings, why don’t you just get a zwave switch? Such as this one here
Honeywell Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Dimmer Switch, In-Wall Paddle, Interchangeable White & Almond | Built-In Repeater & Range Extender | ZWave Hub Required - SmartThings, Wink, Alexa Compatible, 39351 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LXZJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDdADb3VYWN4Z

Zwave is far more reliable than Wi-Fi, I haven’t tested Lutron but I assume Lutron uses wi-if. Z-wave is a low power frequency making the device smoother.

And if you want extra functionality choose this:


HomeSeer HS-WD200+ Z-Wave Plus Scene-Capable Smart Dimmer Switch w/RGB LED indicators | Built-in Repeater Range Extender | Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT (Hub Required) | Works With SmartThings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079F38TPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bGdADbZH2YNTP


This switch can use of its leds to show the status of a door, light, garage door, lock etc.

How about if you use a smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12722-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2) ? You can use as many regular bulbs you want, and to configure you would be configuring only 1 device (the switch) instead of each bulb

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

I was just shopping for these. The same/similar ones are on Amazon

Ceiling Fan Pull Chain Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMK9ACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o9StzbT640F06

I don’t think it would work with a normal smart switch. This switch will probably do what you want it to though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WLM8LBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511486986&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hunter+fan+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41fxKaqMpxL&ref=plSrch

This is what I used. It is a dimmer switch that has preset settings at like 33, 66, 100 % power or something like that to trigger the speed threshold settings of a fans low medium and high. I used it with a smarthings hub and echo. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549488790&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+ceiling+fan+smart+switch

So I'm looking at this fan control and this light switch. That should do it?

1 switch controls light and 1 switch controls fan? if so light switch / fan switch

The easiest brace to install has two arms that twist to lock in position:
http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/

Thinking you'll want a tool like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Zji6A5T8As&t=1m12s and use the remote control fan

Not sure how long they’ve been around (I just bought them last month), but these are ones I have: GE Z-wave fan switch

Yes, it would be. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B001I1M95E

After buying some 'smart' bulbs early on in my home automation project, I've decided the batter way to go is smart SWITCHES. I'm using several flavors of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

A universal kit will do that for you.

Another option is a smart switch.

I am following along with:

https://github.com/home-assistant/home-assistant/pull/14351
https://github.com/home-assistant/architecture/issues/27

HomeAssistent added native HomeKit support, and fan support has been merged, but it can't do speeds yet. And I will probably eventually pair it with this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV

This of course depends on the eventual price of the iDevices switch. I also don't like fans with lights so I don't need one that does both (the GE only does fans)

You shouldn't need to cut the ceiling. I installed a fan in my living room by moving the old can light out of the way and using a screw type fan box. And I have no attic access above my living room.

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https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=screw+fan+box&qid=1562467536&s=hi&sr=1-1

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You should be able to do it all through that hole.

For light switches: something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482171474&sr=8-1&keywords=Zwave+light+switch

I've been thinking I may just buy a switch like this GE Z-Wave Wireless Switch and call it a day

what about something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526997816&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+z+wave+fan+controller

If I understand correctly, you have a 3-way switch setup controlling the light/fan, where there's two switches that control the same fixture. This shouldn't be an issue if you swapped the light for the fan wiring it the same way.

Did you change anything at the switch? Have you flipped both switches to make sure it's on?(had to ask)

I'd check there's still power getting to the red wire in the ceiling box, you can get a non-contact voltage tester, or a multimeter for <$20.

If you still have power controlled by the switches, I'd try bypassing the controller for the remote. There should be 4 wires going into it, ground(bare or green), neutral(white), fan power(black), and light power(blue). Tie the black and blue wires together with the red in the box, and the rest normally.

If you are not super comfortable with electricity and wiring, and there's power getting to the red wire in the ceiling, just return the fan for a new one, as that's what you'd have to do anyway if the controller is bad.

Side note: Always turn off the breaker when working on your wiring, and you should switch the ceiling box for one that's meant to support a fan. Depending on where the original box is in relation to the joists, you want one like this or this. The plastic ones that are nailed to the side of the joist offer to much movement. Not only will it wear the bearings in the motor prematurely, but you risk it falling.

There is actually a weird looking box that will work in that space:

https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-0200011-Support-2-Cubic-Inch-Capacity/dp/B0002YV1Q6

It is designed for ceiling fans, but would work there as well.

This is the one I'm using: Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c29aAbQJ43KWN

I just added this switch. I think its 2hat your describing.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XplxCbBR8Y0D3

What about a universal wireless remote?
Universal Ceiling Fan Remote Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I1M95E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6ii7BbHJ2ZKJ8

came here to say the same thing. I have two of these installed in my house. I did however wire it a little bit different than the way it was stated in the manual. I wired the light directly to the 6 button dimmer and then linked the 4 middle buttons to off/low/med/high with the fanlinc

Fanlinc box wired to the ceiling fan
https://www.amazon.com/Insteon-2475F-FanLinc-Dual-Band-Controller/dp/B00715SU4A

Keypad
https://www.amazon.com/Insteon-Dual-Mesh-Technology-Unbeatable-Reliability/dp/B00DN9VGL2/

keypad insert for the fan speeds
https://www.amazon.com/Insteon-2322-382-FanLinc-Button-KeypadLinc/dp/B007S0CAMQ/




another option i considered but didnt actually pursue is the Aeotec micro dimmer that could be paired with a their wall swipe switch whenever it comes out.
https://aeotec.com/z-wave-wall-switch
https://aeotec.com/z-wave-light-dimmer-switch

GE has a fan control switch/dimmer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/ge-in-wall-on-slash-off-switch

plus

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/aeon-labs-minimote

Way cheaper if you buy them from Amazon, of course:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW

I have a few of these and they have worked well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not 100% sure what you're asking, but I use these GE Z-Wave light switches in my house and they work flawlessly. They are 'rocker' style so it can't be 'off' when it's 'on' if you know what I mean.

https://www.amazon.ca/GE-45609WB-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

No, it isn't safe to use a light dimmer on a fan. I'm picturing a ceiling fan not a portable, for that you need something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YWN7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405243052&sr=8-1&pi=SL75. Sorry if the link is screwy, I'm on mobile.

Yeah, you need all three to voice control your fireplace through that switch-

https://www.amazon.com/hw/smarthome/B0035YRCR2/requirements?ref=hsx_sh_rqp_dp_rq

You need - echo, hub and switch for a total of close to $300. 200 if you got an echo dot.

Not worth it when you can get actual fireplace remote for $75.

The extra $60 I talked about was to upgrade my non-Alexa compatible insteon hub, to the latest Alexa compatible version.

These work just fine with Wink:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gtC.zbHA5AZVP

Here you go folks. $8.99 on Amazon.

The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.

No that will not work, it would for a normal electrical outlet but not to support a ceiling fan, youlll need one of these or something similar at the local home depot or Lowes
Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans

There's also this one for only $37. But a lot of reviews talk about interference and issues with LEDs. That's too bad, otherwise it'd be perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

There is a fan bracket available for this very thing.

You slip this tube up into the void and extend it from joist to joist by screwing it out (like a shower tension rod) and the ends are pronged to grab the joists.

Then the box screws into this bar.

https://www.rona.ca/en/saf-t-brace-35425051

https://www.lowes.ca/ceiling-fan-mounting-accessories/raco-old-work-ceiling-fan-brace-and-box-kit_g1543999.html

https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW

I'd toss the plastic boxes and replace with fan rated just the same.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

Just be aware that these don't with with LED's

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48

Remote

vs Wall Switch

what do you suggest?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

If you have a neutral wire I recommend these:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Required-SmartThings-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

I doubt leaving the lights on is skyrocketing your electricity bill though. Another option would be LED bulbs.

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2

1. https://home-assistant.io/
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479870595&sr=1-1&keywords=z-stick+gen5
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479870611&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave
   
   **Requires Neutral wire.

It's not on sale right now, but here's one that's close: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492088899&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&ref=plSrch

https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/how-to-install-a-ceiling-fan-remote/view-all


https://smile.amazon.com/Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control/dp/B00A2WU4CK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491010107&sr=8-1&keywords=ceiling+fan+remote+retrofit

Amazon Page 8c * 6 (48c)

Amazon has you covered

https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Pull-Chain-Set/dp/B00FMK9ACM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467348460&sr=8-1&keywords=ceiling+fan+light+fan+chains