Reddit mentions: The best climbing rope, cord & webbing

super late to this party but oh well:

If you are looking for something fun and packable I would suggest getting about 120' of balance communities regular feather webbing(the green kind not the pro), you won't be able to use it on highlines but it is super packable and a lot easier to rig than tubular and would be a great lightweight setup to have for traveling. plus you can also rig it primitive style pretty easily.

Once you do want to get a longline kit, it is hard to avoid the pully system. You can go on the cheaper side and get;

2* double pulleys (https://www.amazon.com/Fusion-Climb-Secura-Double-Aluminum/dp/B00P8D6H8I),

a rope grab (Petzl tiblock)https://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Tibloc-Ascender-One-Size/dp/B000AXTO8Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499726769&sr=1-1&keywords=tibloc,
a carabiner,

single pulley https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Mobile-Single-Climbing-Rigging/dp/B01I10MMEM/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499726811&sr=1-5&keywords=single+pulley,

small rigging plate (https://www.amazon.com/Fusion-Climb-Aluminum-Little-Rigging/dp/B008KEDV36/ref=pd_sim_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008KEDV36&pd_rd_r=9GSDV5MPNYH1V1ND0S8N&pd_rd_w=FUuA4&pd_rd_wg=eWUeb&psc=1&refRID=9GSDV5MPNYH1V1ND0S8N)

and about 50-60' of static rope (https://www.amazon.com/GM-CLIMBING-Double-Accessory-Fluorescent/dp/B01H5CY7SQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499726145&sr=1-3&keywords=static%2Brope&th=1&psc=1) this should work fine for you and is rated to 19kn.

The most expensive part of this pulley system is going to be the brake. I would recommend a gri gri just as the simplest option and with longlining stuff like this you should be okay getting a used one off of ebay, just inspect it well before use to make sure there aren't any defects or anything. You could go ahead and use an ATC and tie the tail off but I suspect you would lose a lot of efficiency in this already pretty inefficient but cheaper set up. You can also go ahead and get the slackbro's pulleys, they aren't the best, but they are so bomber and are still nice to have around after you are trying to upgrade and may be easier than trying to piece everything together.

When it comes to webbing, that option is kinda up to you, try and make some friends with local slackline groups and walk various types of webbing and you will find what you like best, I would recommend getting 100 meters for your first length though, it's not too much to haul around and when you start rigging highlines longer than 50meters, there should be plenty of people who also have 100 meter lengths that you can partner up with.

Also keep an eye out on slackchat used gear group on facebook, you can usually find some pretty decent stuff on there.

Good luck and happy slacking!

The first question to ask is what is your price range. If you are looking to save money and do not really care about having a super nice slackline then I wouldn't read the rest of my comment. If you are willing to spend more money then I would get a name brand that will be easier and better for slack lining.
Some things to know at the start is that yes you should get tree wraps. This is because if you are in your own property you will want to protect your trees, and if you are at a public park, you do not want to get slack lining banned because you killed their trees. They are cheap, but if you want to save money use beach towels. The next thing to know is what true length means. Slack lines will advertise a length of " X " amount of feet but that does not mean you can walk the whole distance of " X ". They will include the length of the ratchet which will make it seem longer, but you do not walk on that part of the line.
Another good thing to know is what you want to do with slacklining. If you only want to walk and do some basic tricks then you would be fine with something like the Gibbon classic line, but if you want to get into tricklining then you would appreciate the Gibbon Jibline. There is also long lining, which is more like the Gibbon Surfline.
My first line was the Gibbon Jibline. It is 49 feet long (true length 41 feet) and I found it on Amazon for $63 dollars new. But that was a sale price, now it is more expensive than that. I really like the brand Gibbon. I wanted to get into tricklining so I skipped the classic line went straight for the trick line to learn on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AARZ3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9xu3DbDCBPCF0
I also have a longer Slackline Industries long line. It is also a trickline and because it is longer, better for bouncing and getting more height. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C7SVXT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fvu3DbFDFJ15Y
I know the Amazon review is bad but trust me I like this line a lot.
Even starting out with this line would be nice because you would not have to use the full 85 feet true length.
Someone said something about going to a store. A good store near me is called Sierra Trading Post. They have cheap prices on new lines. But for Amazon, I would check those lines out. The two I mentions are my top picks. I have used other brands but didnt have the same feel. Gibbon and Slackline Industries are worth the extra few bucks trust me.
Let me know if you need anything else! Glad to see more people wanted to start slack lining.

>Get on it!!
>
>You can check Amazon.com or Brute magnetics if you're in the USA there's a ton of selection (I'd go with brute if you can!)
>
>Otherwise, in Canada here's what I got:
>
>Magnet: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07F7JKK83/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o08\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>Cord: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HML8T9D/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o08\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>Another great cord (longer): https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RGQ51QD/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>That's all you need. The rest is optional. 1 magnet and 1 cord. But, I'd go with some gloves at least.
>
>The double sided ones say 800lbs for example, but that's a combined strength (400 on each side). Where as the ones with the hook on top that pull on one side only, they pull the weight it says.
>
>Avoid thin rope, and make sure your cord can pull more (higher breaking strength) than the magnet can pull. I'd avoid premade kits like these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07QPLZC8X/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o07\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>I bought it and the magnet is ok, but everything else is garbage. Go with a brute premade kit if you can. You also NEED loctite (red) to threadlock the thing from coming out of the magnet.
>
>Edit: also here's my channel in case you wanna see it in action! https://youtu.be/6wTMJQiUjYo

I'll just copy and paste that for you \^ If you already bought a premade kit like the one I posted, don't sweat it! But just get a better rope at least - and loctite, those are the essentials :p Best of luck to you! I hope this brings you a lot of joy - Go off a wharf where boats are your first time and you'll get tons of stuff!

Slackline is not Tightrope, and as such the line is free to bounce and vibrate. A static line would have little to no bounce or stretch. It is hard to explain why you want stretch, but you do. If you longline you want just a wee bit of it, 2-7%, if you do tricklines you want a bunch. (if you do longline, 1inch is your line for you, if you prefer tricks, 2inches is usually the only way to go) Slackline is really what you make of it, I like to longline with tons of bounce and sway, others prefer super tight lines, others nearly no tension at all (see: rodeo line) It is really up to you to figure out what you like and to design a line around that. Here is a list of 1inch lines around the world http://slacklink.org/images/WebbingStats.png (see rageline) I would personally recommend a gibbon classic, 82ft of 2inch flat webbing with a ratchet handle. It is a fantastic learning line and super fast to set up. It is also on sale on amazon for $66 and free shipping. If I didnt already have 2, i would snag it. (http://www.amazon.com/Gibbon-GISL211-P-Classic-Slacklines/dp/B008AT9HGQ) any other questions, please feel free to ask.

We've done looping before, I don't really see any issue with it personally. just make sure to keep the refrigerant lines up and off the ground!


We usually use metal strapping, but they make this black nylon roll http://www.amazon.com/Black-Nylon-Strap-Webbing-String/dp/B005G79EYA that goes in very easy with staples, as apposed to nails/screws


EDIT: Also, most units come as wet, meaning that they're pre-charged with refrigerant. Once you pump down the unit, (make sure it's still in vacuum). It may be best to completely disconnect your gauges at this point, since refrigerant release can happen when you disconnect them later on (burns your fingers), once the refrigerant is released into the system. Take the little brass cap off the top of the suction line (larger line) and screw it open with a hex wrench, which releases the refrigerant. A big scrary industry secret that will have timm down there raving: Back that same hex nut out all the way until it stops, and then turn it back in a quarter turn. and that's it, your refrigerant is free in the system. Of course it still won't hurt to have a tech come out and make sure it's spic and spiffy once you do that

homemade climbing webbing leash: https://imgur.com/ERikf6D

It's a little dirty because of all the dragging around campsites, but eh. That's how you know it's real. :P

This is my favorite non-leather material for leashes. Wide, flat, soft, easy to knot, and very strong. You can get it in just about any length. I think I ordered a 30 foot pre-cut pack and made 3 leashes out of it. The knots look bad, but they are functional/strong and also easy to grab onto.

edit: this is the brand of webbing I used: https://www.amazon.com/SGT-KNOTS-Bluewater-Tubular-Webbing/dp/B07H3FGLLL. It's made of nylon, but does not feel rough & cutting like the nylon dog leashes you find in pet shops.

​

leather leash: https://imgur.com/6JwJ142

For what it's worth, my super sturdy buy-it-for-life leather leashes don't have any bolts/rivets at all, just heavy duty stitching.

Honestly, it's probably easier & better to get a backpack you like & custom-make the webbing harness.

I have an old North Face Recon backpack that refuses to fall apart.

The big clip for around the waist is a "7145/7146 1" Rock Lockster Plastic Side Release Buckle"

And the smaller ones for chest, exterior side cinch (x2), and interior laptop compartment are "7315/7316 3/4" Rock Lockster Plastic Side Release Buckle".

I bought 1" webbing and 3/4" webbing, total cost maybe $30. But you have a "tank bag" that is easily secured to the bike and super easy to carry around. Plus I feel most won't carry a laptop this easily.

I have two standard split key rings both hooked to the metal loops on one side of my camera. I then have a rock climbing sewn sling put through both of the rings. I then usually keep a small rock climbing carabiner clipped to the sling. I wrap tape around split wrings once the sling is attached so the ring edges don't snag the sling. This setup is light and strong and gives me a few options for carry. If you want to carry it by hand you double up the sling and it is now half the length of the full sling. Doubling it up may make it the right size to hang off of a shoulder for short people, but I'm bigger and my sling isn't long enough for that. If you want to put it over your shoulder and across your chest you can. When you want to draw the camera up the sling slides through the split rings easily and doesn't catch on clothes. When you're done you can let it down and it hangs by your side. If I don't want to wear the sling I can hook the sling, using the carabiner, to a back pack, belt, or a belt loop which is nice for hiking near cliff edges or waterfalls as well as areas where I might be afraid of someone grabbing and running off with my camera. The sling and carabiner are rated to about 22kN or approximately 4,945 lbs. I don't think the split rings could hold that, but it is more than enough for a camera if you have decent split rings. The whole setup is relatively cheap compared to some of the slick commercial setups some have. It does have disadvantages. You probably need to find the right sling length for your frame size. The sling I have works well for me, but would probalby have a camera hanging by a short person's knees. They do sell different length slings so you just need to keep it in mind if you buy one. Once the split rings are on, the sling threaded through the rings, and the rings taped over, you can't just pull the sling and rings off at a moments notice. Also if you aren't used to it and don't naturally pull the sling out of the way it likes to slide in front of short lenses. Also the strap is really this which is fine for me, but if you are carrying a pro body with a long pro zoom it might be awkward. When I have my f2.8 80-200 mm and battery grip on I usually am holding on to the camera and lens all the time anyways.

I can take a few pictures later if people are interested.

I use a G-code XST RTI for my TM hi-capa 5.1. They have a holster designed for the STI Perfect 10 which I assume is what the KP06 is based off of. The holster is great. It's a nice molded Kydex so the pistol clicks in and stays put, but is easy to pull, and the spring loaded strap is quick and easy to use. It has a screw on the side to adjust tightness. I use it with a duty mount and custom made leg strap from webbing and buckles.

I use HSGI Tacos and Condor pistol pouches for my hi-capa mags. Both work great, just depends on what you want to spend.

So I'm finally looking at getting my own equipment, but am a little lost when it comes to the brands and such. I've been running ropes courses, rappel/climbing towers, and mountain rappel points for over 5 years, so I'm not really new, but I've always used the equipment provided by my ROTC program. I'm looking at getting an Edelweiss harness, and I know that I'm looking for a 200ft static rope, as I'm really only looking at doing some rappelling with friends, but I don't know which brands are best to go with. I'm interested in this rope from Singing Rock, but the lower price and not hearing much about them before has m a little hesitant. Are they a trusted brand, or are there any others you'd suggest? I'm obviously not against spending more than that, I understand the need for quality equipment. Thanks!

My kit, which is usually in some sort of shoulder or back pack, always has a thin roll of Gorilla Tape, a spool of micro-paracord (80 lb test, overkill for most repairs), a powerbank capable of charging my phone to completion more then once and the appropriate cable, condoms (can be used for the obvious but also as a bandage or to carry water), a method to make fire, and some sort of snack. I have a water container with me 100% of the time. Of course there's way more silly things in there, but those things are key.

The micro paracord is super useful, for easy rope and fun/socially. A lady's purse breaks, you can fix that no problem. Need an impromptu keyring? I got ya. Even marking which suitcases go to which hotels in a third world country (most recent time I was happy to have it). Ill grab a link from Amazon. I love it

Tons of colors too, a chain of military surplus stores in my city carries it.
Atwood Mobile Products Micro Sport Cord 1.18mm X 125 Ft Small Spool Lightweight Braided Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073FMLVZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KWC3DbHVWP9ZR

Travel size One inch Gorilla tape
Gorilla Tape, Mini Duct Tape To-Go, 1" x 10 yd Travel Size, Black, (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2AAGTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vZC3DbPG9W03W

If you want to do any long term camping, the first trick you need to learn is the home made canopy. Takes about 30-45 minutes to set up and makes a rainy trip much more enjoyable.

First you need a large tarp, something like this. Then you need like 2 packs of ratchet straps and a nice rope like this. Finally, a couple packs of heavy duty metal tent stakes and some small rope

So you find an area that has 2 trees about 50 feet apart and tie the rope around the trunk about 10 feet up. Then run it over to the other tree, but instead of tying it to the tree, make a knot that leaves a loop sticking out. Put a ratchet strap around the tree and connect that to the rope loop and pull it tie. It'll stretch after a bit so you can tighten it up more as needed without undoing the whole thing.

Then you throw the tarp over the rope and create an A frame style canopy. Use the stakes and extra ratchet straps to tighten the corners down nicely then use stakes and the 1/4" rope to fill in the gaps.

So 45 minutes later you have a 1000 square foot pavilion to camp under, it can rain all it wants. It's also high enough that you can build a modest fire under and not damage the tarp.

Throw out some chairs, fold out picnic table and you're good to go.

I got this one.

slackers 50-Feet Slackline Classic Set with Bonus Teaching Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S3MHMG/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_l43uybEJMK2GS

It includes a leader line for you to hold onto. I don't recommend him using it as I think it's a crutch when first starting but it's nice when I bring friend who want to try it as it let's slacking be fun Immediately.

1. [ENO doublenest hammock] (http://www.amazon.com/Eagles-Nest-Outfitters-DoubleNest-Hammock/dp/B001DDTE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345872726&sr=8-1&keywords=eno+doublenest+hammock)
   
   
2. [25 yards 1" webbing] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QL2C26/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02)
   
   
3. [ENO rainfly pro] (http://www.amazon.com/ENO-Pro-Rain-Tarp-Navy/dp/B0027PXSWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345872824&sr=8-1&keywords=eno+rain+fly)
   
   
4. [hiker first aid kit with extra bandages] (http://www.rei.com/product/800905/rei-hiker-first-aid-kit)
   
   
5. [set of 6 MSR ground stakes] (http://www.rei.com/product/682543/msr-ground-hog-stake)
   
   
6. Walther PPS .40 cal in a [crossbreed super tuck] (http://crossbreedholsters.com/SuperTuckDeluxe/tabid/90/List/0/ProductID/1/CategoryID/1/Level/1/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName,ProductName) holster
   
   
7. [26 KN rated carabiners] (http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Straight-Carabiner-Keylock-CAMP/dp/B0015TFYCY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345872547&sr=8-2&keywords=trango+carabiner)
   
   
8. Warbonnet Outdoors [Adjustable Webbing Suspension] (http://www.warbonnetoutdoors.com/acces.php)
   
   
9. [Silva Compass with Mirror] (http://www.amazon.com/Silva-2801078-Ranger-CLQ-Compass/dp/B000EQ82H8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345872609&sr=8-2&keywords=silva+type+20)
   
   
10. iphone 4
    
    
11. Uni-ball Super ink .5mm pen. This varies as I have ~10 pens I grab on a day-to-day basis.
    
    
12. Lighter
    
    
13. [Kershaw Scallion Knife] (http://www.kershawknives.com/productdetails.php?id=49)
    
    
14. True Utility [Utili-key] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F527NU/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00)
    
    
15. [Nylon billfold] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E1GRIO/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00)
    
    
16. [Camelback Alpine Explorer backpack] (http://www.rei.com/product/830501/camelbak-alpine-explorer-hydration-pack-100-fl-oz)
    
    
    I realize this may be slightly outside the bounds of "every day carry" but rest assured this backpack is always on/near me.
    
    The things I have physically on me and basically all times are items: 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.
    
    Everything else pretty much lives in the backpack and stays on me or in my car for access at a moments notice.

I made a very simple pattern in CAD and had it printed on 11x17 Tabloid Paper. The construction is fairly straightforward, I had two pieces of foam sandwiched in between the patterned fabric and some scrap denim I had laying around. Having the denim on the bottom layer provides some strength, as the strap doesn't go through the padding. The denim also feels very nice against the skin and will not slip around. Using some Bias Tape, I finished the edges of the pad. I used Uncle Mike's Quick Detach hardware for this. (I made another pad using Blackhawk hardware and those are a much lower build quality.)

As far as a 3 point sling, they seem like they would be pretty easy to make if you had the right hardware. I found it difficult to find information on the internet about how to create different loops with the webbing. Buying one of these will give you enough webbing to make just about all the straps and slings you would need.

Yeah, I'd check out paracord 750 - The next step up from what you have, which is 5 mm in size. Although, only being 1 mm more, might not make a huge difference.


A lot of people use 1/4 inch (called para-max) which is like 6.4mm. You'd probably be ok with something like this - 1000lb tensile strength. Although that is below 1300, I don't understand what could be stronger than this, I've yet to see any higher than this, so maybe what I said about the rope being stronger is wrong. There's people out there with 3500 magnets, so idk wha they use besides steel cables haha: https://www.amazon.ca/Paracord-Planets-Tensile-Strength-Midnight/dp/B01GK7KW9A/ref=sr_1_2?crid=30JHU7OV8I4SH&keywords=1%2F4+inch+paracord&qid=1564660963&s=gateway&sprefix=1%2F4+inch+para%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-2

Here's what I got - It's still only 550 lb breaking strength but its 8 mm thick! Should make pulling a breeze! This is from Canada, so maybe search for something similar on the .com https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HML8T9D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This helped me a lot, it's a size comparison chart showing thickness up to 1/4: https://www.paracordplanet.com/cord-comparison-chart/

> I found this for you so you can practice. They even come in some really happy, fun colors :)
>
>Fail better next time, kid.

Fucking Savage

Tucker's hitch and 15 ft of this stuff is what I have used for the past couple of years. I like cheap and easy... http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design®-Polypro-Webbing/dp/B001QL2C26

You could whip up some of the thicker "tree huggers" for even less.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CD1826/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1449730194&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=2inch+webbing

Just tie the loops on the ends (you'll have plenty of extra material to play with). It's also really easy material to stitch together on a sewing machine if you want to make a for-reals set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HML8T9D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I just ordered that for the same magnet you bought. Can't speak from experience yet but the strength is just under double the max pull and it's specifically for magnet fishing. It has good ratings too.

​

Your boyfriend is right, it's another crazy hobby... but I promise once he sees what you start pulling from the waters he's going to want his own magnet!

How about a DIY harness solution? Works great for me!

Here's all you need:

10-12' of 1" webbing - Here's 30' and it's only $7.85 - get creative and use the extra for additional straps. Get it here: https://www.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Webbing-Strapping/dp/B01KTVG0KI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536581470&sr=8-3&keywords=webbing&dpID=41Rlrv4YwXL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1&psc=1

And some heavy duty adjustable buckles - here's 10 for $8:

https://smile.amazon.com/10-Adjustable-Release-Plastic-Buckles/dp/B00DCZRLZW/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DCZRLZW&pd_rd_r=a024606f-b511-11e8-bcdb-932140fb8169&pd_rd_w=2VDdD&pd_rd_wg=jlO0J&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=FQT5NVP8YN0D9B15J053&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FQT5NVP8YN0D9B15J053

I assume you have an o-ring. Cut two pieces whatever length you need (lightly burn the ends with a lighter to stop fraying), double loop them through the o-ring and attach the buckles. Then pick out your favorite coffee table, footstool, pillow, etc. Attach straps first, then slide flared toy through the o-ring and mount up.

If you go this route, let me know how it works out.

My personal favorite, and widely recommended, is the Gibbon Andy Lewis Signature Trickline:

https://www.amazon.com/Gibbon-Andy-Lewis-Signature-Trickline/dp/B00E6FFJVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540382640&sr=8-1&keywords=andy+lewis+trickline

Next best options would be the Boss Line or the AGGRO Line from SlacklineIndustries imo:

https://www.amazon.com/Slackline-Industries-Boss-Line-Competition/dp/B073R2XVZX

https://slacklineindustries.com/collections/2-inch/products/aggro-line-kit

For a full, easy to use kit click here $60


or if you are willing to learn a couple basic knots and how to rig it with carabiners- line and youll need 3 of these

and setup the line so it's only a foot or so off the ground when you stand in the middle of it and have a friend who's hand you can hold.

There are not great options in that size. And they start getting expensive!

Ewa Michalak is probably the best of the brands. Their FB line is likely to fit Omega-shaped narrow and projected with close-set center full boobs. They also have a nursing bra (woohoo!), But it's not reccommended to invest in those till your boobs have settled.

You are getting into custom order territory for EM. So for sizing, you should probably communicate with them directly.

For lounging, you may have more luck Frankensteining a bra. I'm only a 30FF/G so I have no idea how effective this would be for you. What I do is find a non wired bra that fits on the boobs, then add a support to make the band more appropriate.

My method is to find a bra with a sheathed elastic underneath and replace the elastic with an adjustable insert. I like to use these hooks withthis kind of webbing. You can sew little slots along the webbing to make adjustments (I'm not really sure how to explain that part).

The Frankenstein bras are not really supportive, but they do keep the girls somewhat contained.

I'm working on some Halo Armor, and I'll be using Nylon Straps and Plastic Buckles to hold my pieces in place.

My intent is to glue (or otherwise fasten, depending on what holds best) the straps to the inside of the pieces, so I can put them on and clip them around whatever body part they're on (shins and chest/back, for example), or to clip pieces so they'll hold in place (mostly clipping thigh pieces to the belt to hold them up, and upper arm pieces to torso for the same reason).

It kinda depends on the piece, really. My forearm pieces more or less hold themselves in place by how well they fit around the wrist. I like the velcro tutorial posted here, too.

I just bought the same 1 inch webbing from Amazon, 25 yards for less than 8 bucks. You don't even need to stitch anything, just cut two yards worth of webbing and just do a figure 8 on a bight knot at the end of each. Bonus: you still got an extra 21 yards to play with.

Specifically, they recommend and carry stuff like this, of which - again - I'm not too fond of. It's too easy to have split, fray, or just simply come out too large when cutting: http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Black-Webbing/dp/B001LO47JO

> lost 3.4k

> should I kill myself WSB?

If you're asking this after losing only 3.4k, you probably should at least try. But since it seems like you can't get anything straight the first time around, I found this for you so you can practice. They even come in some really happy, fun colors :)

Fail better next time, kid.

If you're looking to take your tricklining to the next level I'd go for a kit with two ratchets, shackles, and slings. Most of the big slack brands sell a kit like this and you really can't go wrong with any of them.

The Andy Lewis Trickling from Gibbon is a solid choice and it's currently $90 off on Amazon.

No it'll fray. Maybe if you do it with a hot knife, but, honestly, just pick up a spool of nylon strapping: https://smile.amazon.com/Strapworks-Heavyweight-Polypropylene-Webbing-Strapping/dp/B01KTVG0KI

I just got my first sewing machine a Elna EL2000 and was wondering if it would be able to sew through nylon straps such as these.

Thanks

Okay, try this. Get a length of flat nylon webbing long enough to stretch from your bathroom door to a solid anchor. Fasten one end to the bathroom door, the other to your anchor.

I was a little off in my first estimate of price due to already owned materials, but...

To make 4 flags, you will need:

• 4 tent poles, $27.56
  
• 2 swaths of kite material, $17.90
  
• 1 roll of tubular webbing, $13.95 (I already had this, forgot to include it in the original tally)
  
  price per flag: $14.85
  
  

1. Cut your kite material down the middle, lengthwise, leaving you with 4 banner shapes.
   
2. Cut your webbing such that it's 14 inches longer than your kite material, so you can have a bit dangling off the top: http://imgur.com/BUISFUM
   
3. Tack the webbing to the long edge of the kite material with fabric glue so that there's 10 inches off one side, and about 4 inches off the other. When the fabric glue has set, roll the kite material around the webbing and stitch along the edge. Be careful to not sew the webbing shut. http://imgur.com/L8lDmaK
   
4. Sew shut the long end of the webbing, then fuse the tips to prevent unraveling. http://imgur.com/f6wPaBP
   
5. (Optional) melt a hole at the base of the long end so you can bend two flags over and connect them into a gate http://imgur.com/N18Kx32 http://imgur.com/FM9Zu6O
   
6. melt the short end such that you can still slide a pole into the webbing.
   
7. Stick a pole in it.
   
8. repeat. http://imgur.com/qeXvG1b
   
9. repeat some more. http://imgur.com/7eVr1fa
   
10. Stick four in a bag, strap it to your pack, go fly: http://imgur.com/O6sB6jr http://imgur.com/zb6cSjB http://i.imgur.com/mC81gZn.jpg

Dude.

This is so helpful. Thank you. What did you go with as far as thread - like a tough nylon? I'm thinking that what I will need to do is go through the fabric of the jacket and some nylon strapping, kind of like this stuff. My current thought is to add a "back cinch" sort of similar to what SPES has done with their Hussar jacket: http://histfenc.us/design/_gallery/_orginal/313.jpg

I put this on my table. Attached by screwing some nylon webbing to the table, threaded with D-rings. If you go with the webbing, put a bunch of superglue on the webbing and allow it to dry first, that will make it more solid so you can screw through it without it binding up and shredding.

The other amazon link is a great option, but if you aren’t afraid to learn a few knots, try this. If you cut it in half, you’ll still have 2 15 foot straps. I like to get at least 12ft but no more than 15.

I used something similar to the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QL2C26/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501376949&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=poly+webbing&dpPl=1&dpID=51Bau1rCvGL&ref=plSrch

Just search for poly webbing or something similar.

Have you tried just searching online for nylon webbing?

Here's a large roll of it on amazon.

Here's a shorter section on ebay.

Here's a site that specializes in strapping.

Plenty more results from a quick search if that's the type you're looking for.

Here's a selection from the first page of results in the "ropes" subcategory of the Climbing section:
https://www.amazon.com/AOSExpert-Outdoor-Static-Climbing-Rappelling/dp/B07JKHHTBX/ref=lp_3402851_1_1_sspa?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/NIECOR-Outdoor-Climbing-Equipment-Parachute/dp/B07FM2L65G/ref=lp_3402851_1_2_sspa?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Carabiner-Breaking-All-Purpose-Adventure-Gardening/dp/B07HML8T9D/ref=lp_3402851_1_5?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-5

https://www.amazon.com/Xben-Outdoor-Climbing-Equipment-Parachute/dp/B01HOQSH02/ref=lp_3402851_1_6?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-6

https://www.amazon.com/Aoneky-Static-Outdoor-Climbing-Rappelling/dp/B073FCWQG4/ref=lp_3402851_1_7?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-7

https://www.amazon.com/Aoneky-Static-Outdoor-Climbing-Rappelling/dp/B07B9V6TMC/ref=lp_3402851_1_8?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-8

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Diameter-Outdoor-Accessories-Strength/dp/B06XWT437M/ref=lp_3402851_1_12?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-12

https://www.amazon.com/Liberry-Outdoor-Climbing-Diameter-Rappelling/dp/B07KG4W943/ref=lp_3402851_1_13?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-13

https://www.amazon.com/GINEE-Outdoor-Climbing-Rappelling-Harness/dp/B07G445KBK/ref=lp_3402851_1_18?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-18

https://www.amazon.com/Syiswei-Professional-Accessory-Equipment-Mountaineering/dp/B072SK4X32/ref=lp_3402851_1_19?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-19

https://www.amazon.com/Sunzor-Climbing-Rope-Blue-66/dp/B07G7HC1FC/ref=lp_3402851_1_21?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-21

https://www.amazon.com/Sunzor-Climbing-Rope-Orange-98/dp/B07G7HVSQ3/ref=lp_3402851_1_22?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-22

https://www.amazon.com/Sunzor-Climbing-Rope-Orange-33/dp/B07G7HSGGS/ref=lp_3402851_1_25?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1555344453&sr=1-25


There are probably at least 100 similar listings.

I did the same thing and used some paracord, like mentioned by others, it stretches and is not too kind to trees. A few weeks ago I broke open the piggy bank and spent 8 bucks on some polyester webbing straps, with that I had enough to make two sets. If you have questions on how I can show with pictures and stuff tomorrow.

Get some nylon webbing and some slides or tension locks and releases for the harness. For the pouches you could just use socks and fill them with something soft rather than an inflatable - its not like you're gonna be out on the town wearing that thing.

You could probably modify an old backpack for it too, if you dont have access to a sewing machine or a mom.

My go to for attaching pieces is nylon webbing , when you don't need the authentic look. It's relatively cheap on Amazon and tough as hell, I keep my steel legs up with a nylon harness.

You could sew it into existing pieces, and attach it with tough plastic buckles.

Items used:

• Bondo body filler ~40$
  
  
• Foam mats: $20
  
  
• Ski goggles: $30
  
  
• Fiberglass resin: $15
  
  
• Painter's mask (required for fiberglass resin fumes): $15 to $30
  
  
• Fiberglass cloth: $10
  
  
• Spray-paint (flat black, olive green, granite, shiny silvery colour): ~$5 each (I had everything but olive green on hand.)
  
  
• Folk Art acrylic paint (Black, Burgundy, Orange, Yellow, Brown): I'd just buy a $20 set if you don't have any.
  
  
• Window screen material (I had some on hand, but a roll might run you as much as $20)
  
  
• ~10 sticks of hot glue
  
  
• Card stock
  
  
• X-acto knife
  
  
• Ruler
  
  
• 1 Inch Black Polypro Webbing
  
  
• Tiny flashlight
  
  
• Sandpaper (preferably for a power sander)
  
  
• Trench coat (Thrift stores can be handy for finding these for cheap. I already had one): anywhere from $5 to $100+
  
  
• Balaclava
  
  
• Time: Priceless
  
  My Total: ~$150
  
  It's hard to say how much time it took in total, but I'm guessing it took somewhere around 250 hours, maybe?
  
  ----
  
  How I did it:
  
  For the vest and arm-guards I used these foam mats which I got at homedepot.com, but I also spotted some at my local Big Lots.
  
  I simply drew on the shapes, using a picture of a NCR ranger as a guide, then cut them out, painted them, and bam-shazam, finished. (The vest is held together with some this stuff and hot glue and the arm-guards are held on with that same rope-like stuff and velcro.)
  
  And for the helmet I used a pepakura template printed onto card stock which I then cut out and glued together to make the a paper frame with the basic shape of the helmet. Next I coated the helmet in fiberglass resin, twice, before applying fiberglass cloth to the inside and coating that with more resin. After that I coated the entire outside of the helmet in Bondo body filler then sanded it down. This was to get rid of the jagged edges of the paper frame. I also added the dents at this stage. Finally, I used a rotary tool to cut out the ear hole, eyes, and mouth hole.
  
  Once that was done I could move on to painting the thing. I coated the whole thing in a flat black spray-paint, inside and out, then used an olive green spray paint on the helmet.
  
  The mask was a bit more complicated (probably unnecessarily so). With a disposable paint brush I applied a combiniation of a granite coloured spray-paint and and some sort of shiny, silver spray paint. (It actually worked really well, but I feel like there might have been a better way of doing it.)
  
  Once all of the mask pieces (and damaged areas of the helmet) were painted grey, I attached the filter to the side with a nut and bolt through a hole that I drilled, and added the lenses, which came from a pair of ski goggles, using hot glue. I glued screen material (like the kind you would use for a window screen) to the inside of the filer, the ear hole, and the mouth hole so I could breath and hear in the damned thing, then put a little flashlight on the inside of the flashlight casing and glued those pieces to the side of the helmet after everything else was finished.
  
  After that was the detailing. I enlarged some decals I found online, printed and cut out some stencils, then used white spray-paint and the stencils to get the numbers.
  
  After that was done I could start to give it some age, dirt, and grime. I lightly sanded the newly painted helmet which was a little too shiny, and the numbers a little too crisp, then carved in the tally-marks on the side. Then I watered down a black acrylic paint and rubbed that over every surface with a paper towel, which took no time at all.
  
  We're in the home stretch here...
  
  Lastly was the rust effect. I lightly watered down some burgundy, brown, orange, yellow, and black acrylic paints and painted those on, being sure to use as little paint as possible and focusing on areas that would rust the most i.e. edges, corners, grooves, tally-marks.
  
  For the trench coat I used a trench coat.
  
  For the balaclava I used a balaclava.
  
  For the pants I used pants.