Alright, here we go:

PLANNING

You mainly need to figure out how many cables you need and where you'll run them to. Obviously you'll need one to each location of an AP or camera, so you need to figure out how many you'll run to jacks for connecting Ethernet devices. The bare minimum is one to each TV location and desk location, in this case you'll connect a switch to the jack if you need to connect more than one device. The ideal number is five to your main entertainment center, and two to every other TV location and desk location. This hopefully eliminates the need for secondary switches. In addition, you should run one Coaxial cable to each TV location including your main entertainment center. Add up all the Ethernet cables you'll be running, and keep this number in mind.

As for the network hub location, the best place for it is the basement, preferably an unfinished part of it near the entry point of your internet service. If you don't have a basement, use a utility room. Just make sure it has some sort of ventilation, you don't want stuff getting too hot.

EQUIPMENT

For the actual Ethernet cable, you'll want to get a 1000 foot bulk spool. Get pure copper rather than copper clad aluminum (CCA) and solid conductors rather than stranded. It needs to be riser rated (pretty much any will be) but plenum rating is pointless unless you'll be running it through air ducts. Your big choice here is the category rating: Cat5e or Cat6. Cat5e is good for gigabit, Cat6 will future-proof you for 10 gigabit. Cat6 is more expensive, thicker, and trickier to terminate as the spec only allows a quarter inch of untwisting rather than Cat5e's half an inch.

Keeping in mind the number of wires you plan on running, you'll need a punch-down patch panel with at least that many ports that matches the category rating of your cable. You'll also need punch-down keystone jacks, these also need to match the category rating of your cable. You won't need them for cables going to cameras or APs, you'll just need one for each other cable. For each location where you'll be installing jacks, you'll need a single gang old work low voltage bracket (or a surface-mount box), and a keystone wallplate. Six ports for the main entertainment center, three for each other TV location, two for each desk location. You'll also want a keystone coaxial coupler for each TV location including the main entertainment center.

You have another big choice to make for the main switch, a managed PoE switch or a dumb unmanaged switch. The managed PoE switch will simplify things a lot as it'll power your cameras and APs, while with an unmanaged switch you'll need to use PoE injectors. A managed PoE switch will, predictably, be much more expensive. Either way, you'll ideally want one with at least as many ports as the total number of Ethernet cables you'll planning to install, plus one for the router. You can get one with fewer ports, but then you won't be able to connect all your cables to it at once, you'll need to just connect the ones you're currently using. If you'll be going with a managed PoE switch, get one of these UniFi switches: 8-port with 4 PoE, 8-port with all PoE, 16-port, 24-port, or 48-port. If you'll be getting an unmanaged switch, any is fine. Just make sure it's gigabit. I used this one in my previous house, for example.

For the router, you'll want the UniFi Security Gateway.

You've got another big choice to make for the APs: Lite or Pro. The main difference is that the Lite has two 5 GHz streams, while the Pro has three. Only high-end devices like Macbook Pros have 3-stream Wi-Fi hardware, so if you don't have any devices with this, the Pro won't give you any benefit. Also, since the Lite is cheaper you can get more of them for the money, as more APs rather than better ones is the best thing you can do to improve your Wi-Fi. Both of these are available in single-packs and 5-packs, the single packs include PoE injectors but the 5-packs don't. If you're getting a PoE switch, consider getting a 5-pack of Lites.

You'll need something to run the UniFi controller. This is the software that you use to manage all the UniFi gear in one place. The easiest thing to do is install it on an Ethernet-connected PC and just run it when you need to make changes or update firmware. If you want a dedicated device for running it all the time, you can use a Raspberry Pi or Cloud Key. The Cloud Key is PoE-powered, so it's particularly convenient if you have a PoE switch.

You'll also need a few RJ45 plugs for the AP and camera cables, a crimping tool for them, a 110 impact punch down tool for doing your jack and patch panel terminations, and something to strip the cable jacket. Normally this will be built into the crimper.

Lastly, you'll need a lot of pre-made Ethernet patch cables to connect everything in your network hub. Get ones that are as short as possible, 1-3 feet. You'll need one to connect each cable you've installed from the patch panel to the switch, one for connecting the switch to the router, and another for connecting the router to the modem/ONT (this one may need to be longer). If you'll be using any PoE injectors, you'll need an additional cable for each one. You could make all these yourself, but this is very tedious and time-consuming, and hard to get right. The wires need to be in the right order and all 8 need to be connected for gigabit to work. Lastly, you'll need one for each actual Ethernet device you currently have, these should be 6 feet or longer if necessary.

INSTALLATION AND SETUP

The first thing to do is run all the cables. Camera and AP lines go to the device's location and get an RJ45 plug, all the others go to a keystone jack box/bracket/faceplate. Whenever possible, leave a foot of slack at both ends in case you need to re-do terminations. I like to terminate each cable after I run it, as it makes things easier to keep track of. For all the jacks, note the port number of the cable at the patch panel, and write that same number on the faceplate next to the jack. When you do the terminations, make sure to untwist the wire as little as possible, particularly if you're using Cat6.

For the APs, install the ceiling mount bracket using the included hardware, connect the cable to the AP, and then just put the AP on the bracket and twist it to lock it in place.

At the network hub, first hook up any PoE injectors you'll be using. Connect the patch panel port for the AP/camera cable to the injector's PoE port, and connect the injector's LAN port to the switch. Plug the injector into an outlet. Now connect the rest of the patch panel's ports to the switch, or if you have a smaller switch just connect the ones you're currently using. Connect the USG's LAN port to the switch, and its WAN port to your modem/ONT. Make sure your APs are getting power, their ring light will be white if they are.

Now, open the UniFi Controller (wherever you have it set up) and go to the Devices page. Adopt everything, and update everything's firmware. Go through it and set up everything the way you like. All the UniFi devices will light up blue once adopted and configured.

Sorry this got really long. I thought I would try to be as detailed as possible in case you wanted to go this route. Also, I assumed cost wasn't an issue, so I went with the best (within reason) options. If the cost it too high, you could change the access points, not get the extra HP switch linked at the bottom or do a few other things to save money. If you have more questions, post back and I'll help if I can.





I have done a bunch of wireless networks and I found it to be the easiest setup for getting multiple access points to all work together on one network.

If you have ever configured the wireless settings on a router before, you should be fine. If not, it still won't be too hard.

A few things to know about wireless you might not:

• A SSID is the same as a wireless network name
  
• WPA2 encryption is generally the way to go for most people
  
• In the US, although there are 11 wireless channels, only 3 don't overlap/interfere with each other: 1, 6, 11
  
• If you setup multiple access points, you want them to have different channels, but the same SSID, password, and encryption type. This should allow most devices to switch automatically to the nearest access point without the user having to do anything.
  
  Depending on the construction and size of the house, you likely can get away with just 1 AP per floor. If you need to add more later, you always can. Each AP should be able to handle about 30-40 devices well, more if it has too. I would set it up like this:
  
  Buy 1 of these switches:
  
  http://smile.amazon.com/TRENDnet-8-Port-Gigabit-GREENnet-TPE-TG44g/dp/B008VK2XXS/
  
  and 3 Ubquiti Pros (there are 3 in this one box, so you would need 1 of the link here):
  
  http://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-PRO-3/dp/B00DJERLFG/
  
  On the switch above, there are 8 ports, 4 have a thing called PoE, 4 are "regular" (ports 1-4 are PoE, 5-8 are not). Run 1 network cable from one of the 4 yellow network ports on your N900 router to one of the non-PoE ports on the TRENDNet switch (say port 8). Then using the patch panel and cables already run in the house, run a network cable from ports 1,2, and 3 in the TRENDNet switch, to the ports on the patch panel that go to the wall ports nearest where you want the access points to go (shoot for the middle of each floor for best coverage).
  
  If the patch panel isn't labeled, or you don't know what goes where, you will have to test them out. You can do this with trial and error, or buy a cable tester like this:
  
  http://smile.amazon.com/Generic-TET-028-2MX-p-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00118038Y/
  
  With that cable tester, you take one side and run a cable from one half f the tester to the wall port you want to use for the access point, then plug the other side in the patch panel, trying different locations until it lights up. When it does, you know you have the right one.
  
  Ok, so now you have the N900 connected by 1 cable to the TRENDnet switch, then PoE ports 1,2, and 3 hooked to patch panel in the places that go to the wall jacks where you want your access points. Now you will take another network cable and run it from that wall jack into the "main" network port on the access point. That TRENDnet will supply the power, so you don't have to plug it in to a wall outlet for power (that is what PoE is, Power over Ethernet).
  
  Give the access point a bit (maybe a minute or two at the most) and it should start blinking/glowing blue. The access points are made to be mounted to a wall or ceiling, which will get you the best coverage, but if you can't put holes in the wall or don't feel comfortable doing it, you could even just set them on a tall book case or something (that will reduce your range though).
  
  Now, go here: http://www.ubnt.com/download/?group=unifi-ap and download the UniFi Controller software for PC or Mac (whichever you have). Run it and install it.
  
  Here is a guide that likely explains better than I could (with pictures) the next steps from there (start at page 3):
  
  http://dl.ubnt.com/guides/UniFi/UniFi_Controller_UG.pdf
  
  Honestly, the initial setup should be enough, more likely than not. If you or someone has an android phone, install Wifi Analyzer:
  
  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
  
  and walk around the house looking at signal strength after the install is done. If you have I'd say -75dbi or lower (lower numbers mean stronger signal) everywhere you go, then you are done. If somewhere the signal is a lot weaker than that (or doesn't show up), you can just buy another access point, use port 4 on your TRENDNet, hook it up in the weak spot, go into the UniFi software and add it into your network.
  
  That should pretty much be it. There are a lot of really advanced settings you can mess with in the UniFi software, but for a home-type setting, you probably won't need it.
  
  As one other suggestion, consider replacing your current switch with something like this (this is a 24 port, don't know how many ports you need):
  
  http://smile.amazon.com/HP-1810-24G-Gigabit-Rack-Mountable-J9803A/dp/B009HQAMBA/
  
  You would then run 1 cable from your N900 to that switch, and then plug the rest of your non-access point ports in your patch panel into it. Encourage anyone that has a wired connection in their room/desk and that has a desktop or even a laptop to plug into the wired when at all possible. If needs be, even split out 1 cable run to their rooms using a switch like this:
  
  http://smile.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S50g/dp/B001QUA6R0/
  
  to get as many people off of wireless as possible. The reason being, think of it like this:
  
  Each access point has 1 Gigabit connection (1000 Mpbs speed for simplicity). That 1000 speed connection is being shared by as many as 30-40 devices (maybe more), so each device gets at best 1000/40 = 25 Mbps.
  
  When someone uses their own cable run and doesn't use the wireless, they get their own 1000 Mbps connection, instead of having to share one with a bunch of other people.
  
  
  

I don't have any specific insight on that particular cam system, but if you can swing it budget wise I would recommend looking in to an IP camera system. It will cost a little more up front but it will give you more options for upgrading down the line.

With an IP system you can typically mix and match cameras and recorders and as long as you have a recorder with POE (power over Ethernet) you only have to run one wire to each camera as opposed to the power and video wire for the system linked( yes I'm aware that it is contained in one wire but they are still two separate things to plug in). Additionally any IP camera will work with the network wire that you run. And the cameras will usually work with most IP recorders. That is not always the case for these kit systems which sometimes require you use their recorder for the cameras to work at all.

With IP cameras you don't necessarily have to run every wire back to the recorder. You can run all camera wires to a central location where you install a network switch and only need to run one wire back to the recorder. This is good if you ever want to move the recorder in the future. You don't need to rerun all the lines, just the one from the switch to the recorder.

If you can afford to, I definitely think that an IP system would be better with your plans to upgrade as you go. It gives you a lot more flexibility and will help you in the process of upgrading. You can look into Amcrest Recorders that seem to be pretty decently priced and shop around for decently priced IP cameras with good reviews.

Personally I have 4 Honeywell H4W4PER3 cameras, a BV-Tech 9 Port POE switch (to provide power and network to cameras), and am running recorder software (Milestone xProtect Essential+) which is free for up to 8 cameras and has crazy amounts of integrations and extra features (it is designed for Enterprise camera systems)

If you have any questions feel free to PM me

The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.

Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.

If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.

Total cost: $461

I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.

This topic of discussion feels better suited to /r/sysadmin or /r/DataHoarder but I'll let it slide.

Two separate topics:

1. You need a Local Area Network (LAN) to connect all of your computers together.
   
2. You need a Network Attached Storage (NAS) device to provide shared storage for all of your projects.
   
   With project sizes of 100GB, Wireless Solutions are out of the question.
   Focus all of your attention on WIRED LAN solutions.
   
   You need a router, such as the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter 4.
   
   And you need a half-way decent LAN switch such as the Ubiquity US-24
   
   Then you're going to need a NAS appliance.
   
   With a NAS solution, you MUST think in terms of RAID.
   
   One single physical hard disk with everyone's projects on it is a recipe for a data loss nightmare.
   You need redundant disks. AND you need a data backup solution.
   
   Redundant disks are NOT a backup solution.
   
   Say that out loud, right now.
   
   

   Redundant disks are NOT a backup solution.
   

   
   You need something like Carbonite or BackBlaze to copy all of your work projects up to a cloud storage provider.
   
   There are dozens of different backup solutions out there. Use your Google. Research those service offerings and find one that works for you.
   
   Synology is the most frequently recommended low to mid-range NAS solution.
   
   It's a pretty good product for the money.
   
   You need to identify just how much storage you require.
   
   Let's say you have 12 x Projects being worked on right now, and each project is 200GB of data. That's 2.4TB of storage.
   But you also want the past 50 projects available in the NAS. 50 x 200GB is 10TB.
   
   So, you need something in the 15TB of storage range, WITH REDUNDANCY.
   
   Western Digital Red drives are designed for use in NAS appliances (24x7 continuous operation in RAID arrays).
   
   https://www.wdc.com/products/business-internal-storage/wd-red-pro.html
   
   The more physical disks you use, the faster your I/O operations can be, since the workload will be spread across the physical drives.
   So we need to find the right balance of cost v/s performance.
   
   This Synology unit for example supports 8 physical disks.
   
   8 x 6TB = 48TB minus 12TB for parity data to create redundancy == 36TB of usable space.
   
   https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/DS1817+
   
   -----
   
   If you have further questions about the LAN solution, we can discuss it here.
   
   If you have further questions about the Synology or a similar storage solution, please start a new thread in a more appropriate community for assistance.
   
   We prefer to keep /r/networking focused on networking discussions.
   

If everything else connected to your home internet is solid, and it's just the Wii U that's being derpy, an ethernet switch with a wired Wii U adapter would be a cheap, bulletproof solution as /u/XAZSplatoon has said.

I'm partial to [Netgear equipment](http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-1000Mbps-GS205/dp/B00KFD0SMC?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_5), but anything will work. I prefer gigabit (10/100/1000) switches, just because you can push more data around your local network and they're really not much more expensive than 10/100 ("Fast") older types.

Here's the network adapter you need for your Wii U. Get the cheap white one that's $11. I haven't had any disconnects from matches since using one. The Wii U installed it automatically. I just plugged it into one of the USB ports on the Wii U, turned on the system, and then went to Connections and chose Wired Connection. It's been rock solid.

Get a 5-pack of Cat6 cables. (I'd go minimum 5-ft; you always want to have plenty of length.) Now, you have plenty of cables to run into and out of that switch.

There. For like $45, you just vastly improved your network at home. You can sell it as that to your dad. Offer to pay for some, all, or at least the Wii U adapter yourself to sweeten the deal. Also, all the stuff I just linked is top quality for a great price, so it will be great to use for all sorts of things network-related in the house or anywhere pretty much indefinitely. You and your dad will probably find ways to use all the ports on that switch pretty quickly.

Again, this will solve it if everything but the Wii U is generally solid, connectionwise. If the connection to other things is squirrelly, we can go further and talk about routers and such, but it sounds like this will be sufficient.

Congrats on the R710! That's going to be a great machine.

I suggest using the same device as your router/firewall. If your SRX can do both, use it. Then you don't need to add a dedicated router. This will also give you more leeway on the switch. If you want to use Cisco specifically, you can get a basic used switch (eBay example) or a newer switch (Amazon example).

As I mentioned in the first comment, newer equipment is typically better because of the licenses. Older equipment will have limited public firmware. Newer equipment also adheres more closely to newer standards (IEEE 802.blah). Keep in mind the only real difference between switches and routers is layer 2 and layer 3, respectively. This is an oversimplification, but it's fine in this context. Some devices can do both layer 2 and 3.

Since it's your main infrastructure, you may consider getting a high-class managed switch with fewer ports. From that switch, you can branch off into unmanaged switches whose connected MAC addresses can still be configured from the managed switch. You can check eBay (link) for some older Dell models that have great configur-ability -- only $40-100. And Dell is much more public with their firmware. To find out which series is right for you, checkout their Wikipedia page for details.

If you're not bent on Cisco (or iOS in general), checkout Ubiquiti products. And EdgeSwitch seems like the best solution for you. The Unifi products are cloud managed and offer less CLI, which might not be what you're after. Hope this has all been helpful.

So there is not a simple end all be all solution this problem, unfortunately.

But a good place to start would be upgrading your 2 devices initially. I am assuming you have Cisco small business router and not 2 home routers.

The home routers looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=router&qid=1557460874&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Cisco small business routers like this - https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Systems-Gigabit-Router-RV325K9NA/dp/B00HODK3N0/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WUJF97665J0D&keywords=cisco+small+business+router&qid=1557460910&s=gateway&sprefix=cisco+small%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1

​

I would invest in something like the Cisco router I linked if you don't have it already. Fortunately, the Cisco router I linked is ready out of the box and can work on day 1. I would still confirm that with Cisco support as I only learned that from the Q and A page on Amazon. Having a router ready out of the box IS NOT THE NORM, and you generally need someone who knows how to configure them come in, usually a contractor of some sort. Alternatively, most home routers will support 255 devices, and that being said, and good Asus/Belkin/Netgear 150$ - 300$ router would likely be good enough for only 30 people.

Secondly - I don't know why you would need 2 routers. Routers enable a network to connect to the internet and to other networks. Having 2 seems unnecessary unless we are missing something. You can set up 1 router where your network meets the internet and have that second router be turned into a dedicated switch.

Cisco Switch (THIS IS NEEDS TO BE SET UP BY SOMEONE WHO KNOWS HOW TO MAINTAIN/CONFIGURE CISCO DEVICES) - https://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SLM2048T-NA-Mini-GBIC-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07HFKMR2B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cisco+small+business+switch&qid=1557461367&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Or - https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-10-Port-Gigabit-Managed-SG35010K9NA/dp/B01HYA36SG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=cisco+small+business+switch&qid=1557464529&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Unmanaged Switch (Commonly used at homes, Ready out of the box) - https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?keywords=network+switch&pd_rd_i=B01AX8XHRQ&pd_rd_r=5575aed3-5184-474d-83c5-aca41f5c556a&pd_rd_w=K09zH&pd_rd_wg=uxzTY&pf_rd_p=5cc8abfe-8f78-4f34-b19f-d09d6ea0dca4&pf_rd_r=3F3DJSBGZNTDJQK0H8GG&qid=1557461743&s=gateway

*none of these switches will really impact performance, it's more along the lines of available ports and scalability.

From your second device (the switch), you should then be able to hardwire a few accesses points. The access points will broadcast the Wi-Fi signal covering generally about 1400 - 7000 FT depending on quality.

​

Cisco Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-802-11ac-Wireless-Access-WAP371AK9/dp/B00L0LIM62?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

This AP claims that it is also plug and play. Again plug and play is great, but still, expect some troubleshooting if things don't work initially out of the box. It's always best to do research and consult a local IT person/department. Having a few of these AP's would provide some pretty solid Wi-Fi for the area as long as the ethernet cable is properly insulated and outside ethernet (CAT-6) cable is used where it needs to be used. Remember ethernet will have problems if it is exposed to the elements or if it exceeds 300 FT.

​

There is still so much more to consider and I'm really not that smart. Just your average IT guy trying to be helpful. Iv done this sort of things to an extent for a few years. Let me know if you have more questions.

List:

• ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.
  
  
• Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.
  
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.
  
  
• Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.
  
  
• Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.
  
  
• PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!
  
  
• Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.
  
  All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.

hmmm I was looking at TP Link 8-Port PoE Switch but you brought up a great point about just using the same interface, so I'm all for that actually. Can you save the day one more time and either recommending the Switch 8 or the Switch 8-60W I know the only difference is the PoE port but, hey man, you helped me out so much so far, I might as well pick your brain. Oh yeah hahaha I'm so sorry about all this.... since I decided to get a switch... I went back to the USG..... good decision? hahaha

You're right. I've never actually used an adapter, as I've always just had PoE switches available. It's nice working for a company with good available resources and funding for dev/prod upgrades often. Makes more sense to put the injector on the switch side. Still, makes no sense to use them over a PoE switch, though.

Why are you assuming I'm using Ubiquiti throughout the whole network? I have an ER-X, that's my only Ubiquiti product at home. I see tons of people recommend other brands, for instance like a TP-Link AC1750 as a decent cheaper alternative to Ubiquiti APs. And look, it doesn't ship with a PoE adapter!! Dang! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/ Only ~$80, instead of ~$130 for a UAP-AC-PRO (Which on Amazon it says it doesn't come with a PoE adapter either! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/ ). So here's an one adapter for $20 https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ but wait, it can only push 15W! My Aruba APs can draw up to 25W. So less flexible, gotta get adapters for every AP, gotta power them near the switch, what a hassle.

It'd almost be awesome if there are affordable PoE switches available! Oh, look at this 8-port Gigabit PoE Managed switch for only ~$65! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ whereas a Unifi Switch 8 PoE is ~$110 https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ Plus, you'll probably need the cloudkey if you're gonna use UAPs, so there's another $80. And might as well throw in a USG while you're at it for another $120, since OP needs a router anyways.

So, we could do your Ubiquiti stack:

• UAP-AC-PRO - $130
  
• PoE Injector - $20
  
• USG - $130
  
• Cloudkey - $80
  
• Still will likely need some switch, unless OP has one already. USG doesn't have enough ports. Could get a good ole' Netgear GS108 for $50, only $15 cheaper than the TP-Link PoE version above, which if you're paying $20 to get an injector (and more if you need multiple injectors) that doesn't make much sense does it?
  
  And we'd see that setting up your Ubiquiti network will cost somewhere around $400.
  
  If we do the other brands:
  
  
• TP-Link 1750 - $80
  
• TP-Link SG108PE - $65
  
• We can use an ER-X as our gateway since it's relatively cheap - $60
  
  Wow, look how much simpler that is! And it only cost around $205!
  
  So, remind me again in which section it's cheaper to use the PoE injectors? OP (likely) needs a switch anyways. PoE switch is $15 more expensive than non. But you're paying $20 for one injector anyways (PoE switch is like getting (Edit: 4, not 8) injectors for only $15). Did I miss anything here?

> but I don't know if they sell one with 4 ports.

You can get up to 6 keystone jacks in a 1-gang box

> I thought that I would buy a new rack-mountable switch and patch panel. This is what I've been considering:

Like /u/toaster_knight said, get a vertical or deeper one. I would strongly recommend an actual enclosure with a locking door for an office environment.

I also see no reason to put anything smaller than a 24-port in a rack. It's just a waste of space and money.

I would also recommend at least a SMB-level switch. Yes, they are more expensive, but their uptime and management capabilities are worth it IMO. The Ubiquiti 24-port switch is under $200 IIRC.

> I'm assuming that I can rest the router on top of the switch.

That will probably be fine, but you can get rackmount shelves and drawers as well. The shelf is nice because you can remove the switch without messing about with the router.

> I'd also like to buy some type of cable organizers for inside the ceiling. I normally use those small cable clips, but they seem to be intended for one cable. I've seen velcro used, but I'm not sure how to actually secure the cables.

You can get joist hangers, but inside a ceiling, the cables are usually just bundled and left loose or in a tray. If you have a drop ceiling, there are a wide variety of products designed for your support system.

I would also recommend a UPS and a power distribution panel. UPS for obvious reasons and the power panel will let you easily power cycle each component without having to dig into the back--something that gets much harder after rack-mounting.

You can plug these AP's directly into your router if you like, you don't need to purchase additional equipment. However, if your router does not have enough free ports you can purchase a switch to expand the amount available to use.

You can use either a regular gigabit switch or a poe switch. POE switches have the ability to send Power Over Ethernet, this means when the AP's are plugged into them you do not need to use the included injectors, there is no performance benefit just a cleaner install. You can find small poe switches that are relatively inexpensive.

If you do decide to buy a POE switch double check to ensure that it can do gigabit speeds (1000mbit), many of the cheaper poe switches are only 10/100 mbit.

Do you really need super fast wifi in the garage? Might be better served to just go with a regular UAP AC Lite in the garage, the money you save could afford you a POE switch.

I dont have any experience with the Eero, however, it will still fall short of a dedicated AP. Those wifi mesh systems are meant to be turn key for someone who just wants something plug and play. So if your uncomfortable setting up the Nano's the Eero or even Ubiquiti's own Amplifi setup may be more to your liking. Just remember they won't be able to push nearly as much speed as a dedicated AP can.

There are lots of great guides that can easily walk you through Ubiquiti's controller online if you have any questions. The video I linked has some extra hardware but you can still follow along if you want to install the controller on a PC to configure the AP's, then once there are setup you can uninstall the controller and have them run without it. You only need the controller to configure Unifi devices and to record telemetry.

Best of luck with the new Fiber!

Netgear for the router (there are used Qsap Lv 2switches from Facebook that are 10GbE, as well as the Mikrotik Cloudrouter, but the Netgear should be the easiest to setup and get working).

/r/homelab might help too with the server build.

As for the CPU itself, why not Xeon? ECC RAM should help its reliability. Speed of said RAM is hardly noticeable.

SSD: It's weird to have M2 drives be RAID 1, since I don't think you can hot swap those out. Nevertheless, it's a solid choice.

Finally, PSU, just get the best you can buy.

Silentpcreview's 4K Build is pretty recent; you can choose the PSU and case they recommend.

>Has anybody have any experience with this?

Yes

>How does gain compensation fit into the workflow, and how does it work?

1. Set your gain the normal way during sound checks (either FoH or Mons is in charge of this)
   
2. Have a point where you're "done" with setting gain (end of sound checks for us)
   
3. Turn GC on for all channels; this keeps both boards from accidentally stepping on the other person's gain
   
4. Switch the gain controls on your board to digital gain
   
   >Lastly, is there a way to make this redundant with out the use of switches?
   
   Nope. But I'd rank redundant power supplies on the consoles and everything on UPSes higher on my priority list than redundant data cabling, if that matters to you.
   
   We use redundant Cisco SG300-10 switches and CyberPower OR700 UPSes. Both have worked really really well for us in the last year.
   
   >I am hoping to be able to daisy chain the consoles and stage boxes in a loop. Does this work?
   
   Yes, that works. You don't complete the loop though; Dante does not support redundancy via ring topology, only star topology.

I wired every bedroom of my house with Cat-6 when I moved in. The office has multiple runs since I have multiple machines on opposite sides of the room. My basic rule is if it's a desktop pc, game console, or cable box, it should be wired. Anything else, let it be wireless.

I didn't want to run a TON of cable, so in most places I just have 1 active ethernet run to an 8 port gigabit switch (a second ethernet is there but not hooked up) and then run to the other devices. So my Xbox One, HTPC, Tivo, and TV are all hard wired to an 8 port switch and then the 8P is ran back to my 48 port core(overkill) switch.

The benefit is that everything is much more stable and less latency which is important when gaming. I can also add an additional access point anywhere that has weak WiFi coverage.

As for cost, I kept my stuff pretty cheap. I didn't do punch downs so as a result, mine doesn't look as clean.

1000ft Cat6 - $100 (http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12792)

Ethernet Ends(rj45) - $~30 (bought locally don't use the monoprice ones, they're not great)

16P Gigabit Switch for "Core" duties - $70 (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1016-1000Mbps-17-3-inch-Rackmountable/dp/B002HAJQGA) - If you wanna go crazy and get a managed switch, check eBay for used HP Procurve stuff that's gigabit, looking closer to $200 probably though.

Ethernet Tools - $<50 - Need a crimper is all. You can buy a cheapo for $30 at most home improvement stores. If you do punch downs, you'll need a punch tool which will be $40 ish.

Miscallenous stuff such as low voltage outlets and wallplates will probably set you back around $5-10 per run.

So I guess a good ballpark figure would be around $300-$400 + your time if you did it on the cheap side. I have a feeling the neat and tidy way he did his setup probably was closer to 700-800.

TLDR: Expect to spend at least $300 to wire up a house with ethernet. You'll probably end up spending a lot more if you want it as clean as OP's.

CSS-326-24G-2S+RM pair here behind pfSense. Happy with them overall. Quiet little low power switches work good. 👌 Best part is budget friendly.

Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM 24 port Gigabit Ethernet switch with two SFP+ ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQQkDb4604T05

I'd go Orbi if I were going mesh... but if you have wired backhaul, you should consider saving yourself some money and just deploying wired access points instead.

Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lite have been the industry mainstay for quite some time, and they work great. However, you really need to deploy a software controller (Unifi) to manage them properly, and that needs to be backed up regularly (or you'll lose control of them and have to paperclip reset them and set them up from scratch).

If that's more than you want to deal with, TP-Link's EAP-225 is both less expensive than the UAP-AC-Lite and fully-featured without need for a controller. If you want a controller, TP-Link also offers one - called Omada - which is free as in beer and works very well, but you don't have to; if you just want to set each AP up individually in a simple web browser, you can.

A pair of EAP-225s will run you around $115 or so total.

The thing you will be missing if you go with EAP-225s (or Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lite) is the wired connection for local devices, but that's really not a big deal - the answer there, since you have a wired connection for the AP in the first place, is just to run a cheap desktop switch behind the AP. You can get an 8-port gigabit unmanaged switch for well under $50 (under $20, if you're shopping online). Plug the switch into the wall, plug the AP and your devices into the switch, done. If you want to spend a touch more money, consider a PoE switch instead; for $60 you can get an 8-port switch with power over ethernet, which will save you from needing to use a power supply for your access point - it'll get its power directly over the ethernet cable itself, coming from that switch.

Sorry to hijack the post, but if I used a switch I already had with the R6300v2 on stock firmware as the AP, the switch would be the best way to route all my wired connections for the best speeds? Or should I go from modem to router to switch and connect all the wired connections then? I was also hoping to implement Pi-hole. Thoughts?

So as an update, these are the two options that I think we're going to go with. Well one of the two, any feedback on why the IP cam setup would be beneficial over the Analog?

Cameras: 4 Hikvision DS-2CD2142FWD-I 4MP WDR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6MYOOO/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

• Should we consider turrents as well? Or are Domes the preferred goto for a commercial, indoor setting?
  
  NVR: HIKVISION DS-7616NI-E2
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197X9L7S/ref=twister_B01DBLT7K8?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
  
• Considered the 8 port version as well, but I think we'll be running POE from a TPlink into the NVR, so the extra ports wouldnt matter.
  
  Switch: TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE Desktop Switch with 4 PoE Ports (TL-SG1008P) -
  https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008P/dp/B00BP0SSAS?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAISGKVAZL7VOI6HIA&tag=vueville.com-ce-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00BP0SSAS
  
  WD Purple 2TB Surveillance Hard Disk Drive
  https://www.amazon.com/Purple-Surveillance-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B00IMPO5MO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478502241&sr=8-5&keywords=WD+purple+surveillance
  
• Owner is looking for 30 days of recording capability
  
  200ft Cat5e Outdoor Waterproof Ethernet Cable Direct Burial 200 ft.
  https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Burial/dp/B001B6FY4O?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAISGKVAZL7VOI6HIA&tag=vueville.com-ce-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001B6FY4O
  
  Anything that i seem to be missing from this setup? I was thinking of a UPS as well for power trips and maybe an SD card. But not sure either is seems as necessary?
  
  Conversely, were also considering as mentined, a pure analog setup.
  Amcrest HD 720P 4CH Video Security System - Four 1280TVL
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSPXR8E?th=1
  
  Is there a sizable benefit of going with the Hik IP cameras, vs the lesser costed CCTV system that Armcrest offers?

Yes as you said below, you really don't want a "mesh" network. That means something totally different.

You just want PoE access points that can do hand-of, which UniFI can do for sure. I use UniFI at my house and it's 100% worth it. Either of these will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Compact-802-11ac-Enterprise-UAP-NanoHD-US/dp/B07DWW3P6K/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/

but the first one (the NanoHD) is newer and supports 802.11ac wave2.

With unifi you really should go all-in with unifi equipment. That's when the system works best. I'd recommend this PoE switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/

You get 8 ports of PoE ethernet and two SFP ports. You can turn the SFP ports into two more RJ45 gigabit ethernet ports (without PoE) with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUBXDPI/

Alternatively, if you need many more ports or want something rack-moutable, I'd use this switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/

You'll also need a computer that's always on somewhere in your house to run the UniFI controller software. The controller is how you configure and track everything. It's really light-weight, so it can just run in the background on a desktop or some old Mac or PC.

Alternatively you can just plug a "UniFI Cloud Key" controller into one of your PoE ports:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Secure-Controller-stand-Alone-Hardware/dp/B07BB4RGQD/

One caveat, if you use the cloud key make sure you back up your unifi database (on the controller) often. I've had them fail on me more than I like.

Finally, if you don't like any of those you can use a hosted instance of the cloud controller but it's $199 a year:

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Announcing-UniFi-s-newest-Cloud-management-offering/td-p/1912538

1. first you NEED a docsis 3.1 modem
   
2. the only difference between mesh and ap is that everything is wired in ap and the mesh uses wireless backhaul. so as you can guess wired ap>mesh but is not always easy hence why everyone likes mesh
   
3. you want to aim for a star network diagram as much as possible so everything wired into one main switch. each tv, printer, ap, and anything else that can should be wired.
   
4. I recommend using poe when possible reduces wiring and generally makes me smile.
   
5. you only need one router, and several wireless APs
   
   also not sure on your set up but they make these cool poe powered devices that even have pass through so you can extend your wifi way beyond outlets havent tried them but I am eager to
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8NAWZ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks for adding your voice to the conversation- lots of really helpful stuff in there. Now that I've got you roped in...... a few more questions!

1. So there's no issue with multiple stations reading the same video files if they're loaded into an editing program? I thought that it was impossible to for two computers to read a file at the same time. Maybe I'm confusing it with file writing.
   
   
2. What is ZFS snapshot? I'm assuming a time machine sort of thing. How much space does it require? Easy to setup?
   
   
3. Is it possible to get a switch with only 1 or 2 10GbE connections at a cheaper price (around $200)? I see that netgear has a solid looking 8 10GbE switch for $750 here, but I'm not sure it's even necessary to inflate my budget so every workstation has 10GbE connection. We have a specific computer that backs up media from SD cards/etc so I'd only need that one station on a 10GbE connection (plus a 10GbE incoming feed from the server of course).
   
   
4. Do you think a cache SSD is necessary? /u/Master_Scythe seems to think so, but I spoke with someone else who doesn't think I would need a cache drive since the nature of video editing means I won't be constantly using the same files on a regular basis like in a website server.
   
   
   
   Ok so here is my planned setup: let me know if the price is realistic.
   
   Corsair 10 bay PC case ($100) + Ryzen CPU ($250) + asus mobo ($200) + 32GB ECC Ram ($100) + PSU ($100)
   
   PC Cost: $750
   10GbE card: $200
   Raid Rocket Controller: $300
   10GbE Ethernet switch used (recommendations?): $400
   8x 8TB WD Red drives = 8 x $180 = $1500
   
   $3150 for a 64TB RAID Z2 which would equate to 40TB usable, or 30TB real world w/ 20% performance buffer.
   
   Any other hidden costs you can think of? All other stations would be at 1GbE probably.
   

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

Ok, first off thanks for the model number! So many folks leave that off. So your router/switch can kick out 1000mbps over Ethernet, so a switch to match would be ideal. You don't need a managed one so you’re looking at some real cheap, but great options. Here are two good options.

​

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-1000Mbps/dp/B00KFD0SMC

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ENKY6TYY6ZCQ2A6Z0S4M

First thing to note: modems are typically used to convert a digital signal to analog. This is used by cable providers that deliver internet access via their existing cables.

FiOS is fiber, it's already a digital signal. The router you have is therefore, not a modem and does not offer a modem's function.

That said, it does include what most modern routers do, a firewall (yes this used to be a separate device), a Wireless Access Point (WAP), and a switch.

What you need to keep in mind is that if you subscribe to FiOS TV service, you will probably need to keep the VZ router. This is because the router does offer MoCA, a protocol used to deliver data over coax cable for the STBs (set top boxes).

So your question really comes down to "how do I take control over my network?"

Simple, buy a router, buy a WAP and if you need MoCA service, buy a MoCA bridge. If you want an all in one device that offers great performance, check out the Asus AC66U or the AC68U. People here are big fans, I myself have the earlier model (66) and I'm very pleased.

If you want to step up your game and get separate hardware, look into prosumer routers. Mikrotik and EdgeRouter Lite have some good options. Someone here is a fan of the EdgeRouter Lite.

For WAP look no further then Ubuquiti. Get a N model or maybe the AC if you got the cash.

Trendnet has some really nice unmanaged switches.

---

Set up

With the all in one: ISP > router > possible switch > possible MoCA bridge

With the stand alone devices: ISP > router > switch > WAP + possible MoCA bridge

Just to make sure I understand... you're going to have it be modem>erx>1 port of the erx>AC PRO and another port from the erx>1 hardwired pc and that'll be for the entire main house?

(which should be fine as long as the house isn't huge and there aren't people on the complete other side of it)

Then from a 3rd port in the erx>long cat5>switch in the garage>few ports of switch>hard wired pcs and a different port of switch>AC Lite for your wireless beermoney phones?

That should all work and be fine... my only suggestions would be to possibly get an an edgerouter lite instead of the ERX because it can handle ALOT more devices and also supports multiple public IPs should you ever decide to expand your farm. Also instead of the AC Lite... consider an AC PRO for the beermoney garage phones as they will handle 25 wireless devices simultaneously streaming video better than a lite. Although a lite could work so if the $50 difference is a lot for you, you could get away with the lite. As for the switch, if you DON'T need to assign IPs to any of your pcs or the ap in the garage... an unmanaged switch will be fine. I have a few netgear gs205 switches for my home setup and they work great. The 5 port model is 15 bucks and the 8 port is 20. However if you DO need to assign IPs.. you will need a managed switch.. and those can be a bit pricey.. like 100-180 bucks.

EDIT: Also another suggestion would be to put the 2 APs on different channels, especially if there are alot of houses in your surrounding area. You can download a wifi analyzer app on your smartphone and it'll search for the signals in your area and tell you what channels they're on.. you can then set your APs to be on different channels than those so they dont interfere with each other... that will be done through the ubiquiti uniFi management thing that you have to use to set up the APs in the first place. (They come with detailed instructions)

Also i saw you say that having the beermoney phones in the house is ideal but you cant. If you cant for personal reasons then i understand but if its for network reasons you could put them in the house if you'd like! The set up would just be modem>erx>switch>1 port of switch>hardwired pc in main house, 1 port of switch>AC Pro for main house, 1 port of switch>another AC Pro for the 25 beermoney phones (again on different channels), and then 1 port of switch>long cable to your garage>another switch>your laptops and pcs!

taking into account cost and usability...

this is the route i would personally go with.

Ubiquiti Security Gateway (router)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/

Ubiquiti Long Range AP

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/

Ubiquiti 8 Port Gigabit Switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/

the Ubiquiti gear takes a bit more time/knowledge to setup, but is far more robust and offers greater network security.

i'd strongly suggest naming your 2.4GHz network and 5GHz network slightly different names (ie. HomeNetwork24 / HomeNetwork5). this allows you to choose which network/signal you want to use. 2.4GHz for slower/older devices that are further away / 5GHz for newer/faster devices that need the extra speed (streaming, gaming, etc).

Something simple like this should be plenty for your needs. It's gigabit and is 802.3af POE compliant (not the cheap passive POE). TP Link is a well known, mostly well respected brand. It has 4 ports that can handle 15.4w each (802.3af POE standard), but 55w total. This means that if all cameras are drawing their max, it could turn off port 4 to prevent overloading the power supply. IME, cameras don't pull the maximum that they are rated for and I haven't ran into this issue before.

​

I generally recommend avoiding buying injectors. If they are active POE, usually they are pretty similarly priced to a switch with the same port count. The only solid reason I can see is if you have a 30w device to connect to an expensive managed switch.

Like /u/heeero said. I've used POE switches like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BSR4PU/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2/

That sends power over the ethernet (POE) to your camera. Your camera needs to have POE on board, or you can use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATQK/

That "splits" the ethernet from power, and you can use that to connect a non-POE camera to a POE switch. Very nice, small (like pack of cigarettes).

There's also this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZA0FU0/

That's non-standard POE, uses 20v instead of 40v. Can't use it with POE cameras or switches, basically a standalone thing. Very nice if you only have one non POE camera you want to hook up.

POE is really nice. The reliability of hardwire, the convenience of a single ethernet cord.

Thanks for your reply Ben. Yes I have eth1-4 on switch0. I set up a firewall rule for eth0/in that drops all traffic from source 192.168.1.18 (camera IP), which seems to block internet access for the device.


However I will soon be getting three more cameras and an unmanaged POE switch, so I think it will be a good idea to configure a more robust solution than just blocking internet for all 4 camera IP addresses.

Essentially I want to block all 4 cameras from accessing the internet and any other device on my LAN, but make the cameras' RTSP feeds (and admin page) accessible from a certain device 192.168.1.240 on my LAN (which is my Raspberry Pi running motionEye.) Your help is appreciated.

Here is my $.02

I'd get the Edgerouter-X SFP version firstly. It has the ability to push 24v PoE (Unlike the standard ER-X which only accepts 24v PoE passthrough). Then pick up however many Ubiquiti Access points you plan on using. Maybe one or two UAP-AC-Lites or UAP-AC-LRs. Then just run a couple cables from your router to a port you want your Access points to be connected to. Option 2 would be to run separate cables for the access points if you don't want to use an existing jack for these. That way you don't need the injectors. It would be PoE all the way through.

For the switch, there are a few options. It has already been mentioned that you will need one port to be the uplink to your router and that switches typically come in 8,16,24, and 48 port flavours. The main factor here is going to be if you want a "managed" switch or "unmanaged" (dumb) switch. I'm going to just assume that you only need an "unmanaged" switch to distribute your network to the 10 ports. Something like this would be good enough to meet your needs.

You would have the ER-X to interface with your modem, switch, and provide PoE to your Access points. You would have the 16 port switch to provide the connection to all your jacks throughout the house.

That is how I would do it. The ER-X and Switch would run you around $130 US and a UAP-AC-Lite is around $90 on Amazon. Totals around the $200 mark.

To answer your question about using two routers, just don't. You can use a router as an access point, but you need to either use it how it isn't intended or set it to behave as an access point. Either way, getting some good Ubiquiti Access points would be much better than this.

Ubiquiti equipment is pretty nice. The Unifi line trades some functionality for ease of management, but by no means isn't appropriate for most solutions.

I personally like this guy: Unifi US8

I put a few in place at work where I needed a single poe port for an AP and have 2 at home. If all you need is 1 poe port that could be a solution.

A term I've heard used is "prosumer" when referencing Ubiquiti equipment. The TP link is going to be consumer grade, so you can kind of think of it as like the next tier up before prices really jump and you're looking at enterprise equipment.

This is correct.
Ready to pull the trigger on this setup:

NIC

cable

switch

Seems like everything should play nice together, with the added benefit of attaching my main desktop to the switch with 10g along with the server.

Opinions?

Perfect. Many variables that I didn't know of!

By the way, I was checking NETGEAR GS105 reviews on Amazon. It seems that some people have issues with them:

> Netgear is supposed to have a 5 year warranty (2 on the power supply). I had one of these for about 18 months. Over the last months it's been increasingly flaky, every week or two it just hangs and needs to be unplugged and started again. It doesn't matter how much it's in use (it's done it when we've been on vacation with minimal network traffic).

>I called Netgear to get it replaced, but they told me that it's not meant to be plugged in all day, so they won't fix it. Unless you actually unplug all your network equipement when you are not actively using it (I didn't think so), then I highly recommend avoiding Netgear products.

I looked up for replacements: this TRENDnet TEG-S50g - although cheaper - has a better review history. Any thoughts about it?

I was wondering if a WiFi router working as an AP for AP 2 wouldn't be a better option. It would work as a switch (giving me ability to plug 2 computers), and provide WiFi. Do you know any 10/100/1000 router to suits my needs?

If not, I'll try switch + UniFi AP. :)

Excuse the ignorance but what is the advantage of this switch over something like TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit PoE Web Managed Easy Smart Switch with 4-PoE Ports (TL-SG108PE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dF9mybDG17P48?

In addition what is the difference once this switch compared to another one of ubiquitis switches? Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZG9myb310YM0B

You can do it in Windows but, I don't recommend it as it can be very temperamental. i would recommend getting this, I've personally used it with very good results. This video explains how to make the above router operate most effectively.

Your setup sounds exactly like what I'm about to move into. I can't afford to do this quite yet (because of just moving into a new house) but my plan is:

• ARRIS SURFboard SB6190 - this is compatible with Comcast's 200Mbps service. If you're getting slower service, check their compatibility list for a cheaper version
  
• Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite
  
• TP-Link 16-Port Switch - obviously if you're going to need more connections, get a bigger switch. I only need 16 for now
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite
  
• Leftover wifi router set to AP-only mode for the basement since I only care about wifi in one room there
  
  Run wires to every fixed location (TVs, desktop, server, all wifi access points, anywhere you think you might put a computer). Set up the APs on different channels but with the same SSID and security. That will allow devices to roam between them.

I opted for a Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM with 2 10gb sfp+ uplinks and a pair of Mellanox cards off eBay that worked right out of the box. Its fanless and super low power which I love and the increased transfer speeds between my desktop and FreeNAS is a welcome addition.

Thanks for your input. I went with a TP Link AP system.

• Router
  
• Switch
  
• AP
  
  
  It was much less than the Ubiquiti system($180 total), and has a single, good UI. The switch allowed me to hardwire 5 devices, which would have been expensive with Ubiquiti. It met my needs very nicely. Thanks again!

This is a pretty decent deal. I've had good luck with the TP Link products I've used. I currently have a couple of their smaller switches in service and they're working just fine.

That said, I agree with the other comments about Monoprice.com.

Curiosity got the better of me and i found a few non-managed PoE switches: they usually seem to have some fixed number of PoE and some non-PoE ports. You might as well pay a bit more and get basic management, or step up to something like the US-8-60W for really not much more. Any of those options assume only 802.3af compatible access points though...

And yes, pretty much every other managed UniFi switch currently made has 24v PoE except the US-8-60W, I just mentioned that one one as it is by far the cheapest one they make. That one doesn't work for the Unifi-HD or SHD either as it's only 802.3af not af+, or I'd own one.

Get some of these and try doing PoE:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B0042ZKWBG

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-ZoneFlex-Unleashed-Dual-Band-9U1-R310-US02/dp/B01FV0OIJM

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Ethernet-Direct-Shielded/dp/B002HFKSS0

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F

The APs are special ones that have a software based antenna that improves range. They are the lower end (but newer) versions of this:

https://www.evdoinfo.com/content/view/5077/64/

The enclosures is intended to make it safe to use them outdoors. The outdoor cable can be buried (although it should go below the frost line). The switch is designed to power the APs. If the cables are not long enough, you will need outdoor range extenders and a beefier switch that supports 802.3at to provide the additional power needed by the range extender. These would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Repeater-Amplifier-Ethernet-TPE-E100/dp/B00SDFF6S0

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Unmanaged-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B07788WK5V

If you need to go even further than 200m, you could probably run your own dedicated low voltage DC powerlines alongside armored fiber cable and use media converters to convert from fiber to twisted pair. You would need a switch that supports SFP modules and to get a SFP transceiver for each end.

Well if your just looking for switching which it sounds like you are, there's a couple options.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0723DT6MN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503618044&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=crs326-24g-2s%2Brm&dpPl=1&dpID=31YyE3cqAAL&ref=plSrch

Or even simpler

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KZBCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1503618091&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dlink+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=410JJ7z2lrL&ref=plSrch

I'd recommend the former if your looking to learn as these things are pretty crazy good. Probably as reliable as ubiquiti (as in not compared to Cisco of the world) but very feature rich, with a bit of a learning curve

Short answer: yes.

Quick side note: you're looking at 10Gb (bit), not 10GB (byte).

Some clarification is possibly necessary here. You're probably using something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6

In which case, it has 8 ports that can deliver 10Gb each, and ONLY 8 ports that can deliver Gb each (no other ports). It will bottleneck IF, and only if, you are trying to push more than 10Gb at once from this switch to the next one up/downstream from it. Whether this is occuring is highly variable based on your environment.

Many switches have a configuration more like this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122436

The bulk of ports are gigabit (1Gb), and it has 10Gb capable uplinks, so you have less congestion. Same concept with 10Gb switches with 40Gb/100Gb uplinks, etc.


Finally, what you seem to be thinking of is how hubs work(ed). If you have an 8-port 10Gb hub (does such a thing exist? I hope not), then your available bandwidth is reduced by the number of connected machines. The (simplified) technical reason for this is that a hub sends packets to all connected computers. If a packet destined for 192.168.1.1 is received by a computer at 192.168.1.2, it ignores the packet. With a switch, it keeps track of which devices are on which port. A packet destined for 192.168.1.1 is sent out port 4, because the switch knows that's where it is.

by the time you purchase the additional nics you might have well bought the [TP-Link SafeStream TL-R470T+ Fast Ethernet Load Balance Broadband Router, supports up to 4 WAN ports /VPN pass-through/ IPv6 routing] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iab.AbMMAPNY8). good for load balancing (true bonding is NOT possible unless you use speedify as like service)

This is good if you have 2 slow connections of the same speed and reliability.
if you have fast modern broadb as nd speeds, they also have a gigabit model for 150

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S50g/dp/B001QUA6R0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474396188&sr=8-6&keywords=5+port+switch+gigabit

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S5g/dp/B002HH0W5W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474396188&sr=8-7&keywords=5+port+switch+gigabit

These two drop below $10 every month or so. Keep an eye on them if you need a cheap small switch. Yes they are 500% of the cost but worth every penny.

I also bought a 5 port smart switch for $14 earlier this month. Have to mail in rebate but then that's how you save money.

I like to use a switch for this purpose. Just find the cheapest switch from a reputable brand that has the interfaces you need.

Here's my choice for SFP

Here's my choice for SFP+ - Notice you can find these MUCH cheaper through a VAR that's a Juniper partner.

But I've had pretty good luck with these. Have a couple running legacy stuff, and they've worked forever.

There is a D-Link that is powered by POE, as well as a Netgear. Honestly, I trust D-Link as a brand more. I think Ubiquiti also has some, but they're probably more expensive. I know they have POE passthrough APs, which I've used for businesses before, but the D-Link is probably the best option for you.

If you got 8 buddies coming... 16 port maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Rackmount-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511103911&sr=8-5&keywords=16+port+switch

1 port is for the router, so on an 8 port you only have 7 available. Then depending on how you set things up, I like to have a dedicated server PC. Games that support a hosted server goes on that, pre-configured in router for forwarding, and that is the PC that is also open up to file sharing so friends can grab the game, patches, mods, etc.

Power over ethernet. I've got an edgerouter poe-5. Works super great, was a blast to tinker with and tune. But over time I ended up getting a poe splitter to power my cable modem. A poe powered switch. One of ubiquity's long range antennas (powered by the router of course) to share internet and movie library with my parents a few blocks over. And a camera. And from ALL of those, just one wall wart for the router itself. The UPS likes it as well.

Now mind you, I never set out to become a POE addict. I just wanted a nice, powerful router but didn't feel like building a pfsense box for it. I ended up getting the powerful router but it had features for me to grow into that I didn't even know I needed when I bought it.

'That pretty much sums up my ubiquiti experience.

But I'm still kinda pissed that their management software is split between cloud keys for unifi stuff and UNMS for edge stuff.

Yea, I know about SG200, I've set a few clients with them. I'm just looking for SG300 user experience. Reviews look good and the fact that they're fanless is a winning combo. I want to purchase 10 port version, I don't need Layer 3 however no fans is a good benefit http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG300-10-10-port-Gigabit-SRW2008-K9-NA/dp/B0041ORN6U

First of all, thank you very much for the help. The TP-LINK is a TL-SF1005D, which is unmanaged, so you are correct, no IP. Not sure how I came up with the IP conflict earlier.

I've updated the future network diagram here (new equipment in orange): http://imgur.com/qoyRQi4

It looks like I will need:

(1) [UBIQUITI USG] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495983480&sr=8-1&keywords=Ubiquiti+USG)

(1) 16 PORT SWITCH

(1) [UPS] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495985064&sr=1-4&keywords=apc+ups)

(3) UAP-AC-LITE

Questions:

• Is it worth spending the extra money for a ubiquiti switch vs netgear?
  
  
• Should I replace the 5 port TP-Link in the office to match the new 16 port switch?
  
  
• It looks like the UAP-AC-LITE has two ethernet connections. Is one in and one out to a hardwired device?
  
  
• Will the UAP-AC-LITE work like a wifi extener? No hard wired connection in, ethernet out to a device?
  
  Cost effective question:
  
  
• Would it be feasible to disable the 2.4 and 5.0 network on the existing E2500 router and install a UAP-AC-LITE for wifi?
  

> 1410

well, it's certainly better than the TP-Link you linked first, but I thought you'd want a managed switch (but that could already be overkill). Aren't 8 Ports enough if there are only 6 rooms (plus Server and Router)?

The throughput of HP's ProCurve or Cisco's SMB switches is enough to run a true Gigabit network without bandwidth bottlenecks, yes. I think for 1080p Netflix even 100Mb/s would be enough (as Netflix uses ~10Mb/s max). I think the limiting factor would rather be the ISP connection.

How fast is Comcast? Don't know shit about American ISPs. If it's a cable provider, don't trust the advertised speeds; calculate with 50% less (= worst case).

You also want to check for a static IP for remote management/troubleshooting; else you need a dynamic DNS service. The Ubiquiti ERLite-3 handles all this perfectly.


EDIT: for a switch, how is the Cisco SG300-10? 10 Ports, Level 3 managed (runs a small business!), 185$. Since the Ubiquiti ERLite-3 is cheaper than the router you first wanted, in my opinion you shouldn't

$50 device

NE_TP-Link TL-R470T+

AMZ_TP-Link TL-R470T+

----

Bob's review

Review of device w/ 4G tethered

2nd review kinda loud, decibel alert!

-----

• How to accomplish your goal
  
  Set up Load Balance to aggregate several WAN links
  
  Configure IP Routing on Dual WAN
  
  Steam services IP list US
  
  Steam services IP list International
  
  Good luck! ~ Bluddy

I've had great luck with TRENDnet switches. Something like this ought to do the job for you.

> I'll need to find a PoE switch strong enough to power all these devices

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-19&keywords=poe+switch

55 watt TP Link:

TP-Link TL-SG1005P 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE Desktop Switch with 4-PoE Ports, 55W IEEE 802.3af compliant.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-8&keywords=poe+switch
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1005P-Gigabit-Ethernet-compliant/dp/B076HZFY3F/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-8&keywords=poe+switch

96 watts:

BV-Tech 10 Port PoE+ Industrial DIN Rail Switch (8 PoE+ Ports | Gigabit Ethernet & SFP Uplink) – 96W – 802.3at

https://www.amazon.com/BV-Tech-Industrial-Switch-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B075FZQX14/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541701054&sr=1-4&keywords=poe+switch

A lot of POE switches at amazon, you can sort through:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_review-rank?keywords=poe+switch&rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Apoe+switch&qid=1541701042&sort=review-rank

I'm not sure what these might go for in £, however, the BV Tech PoE switches are pretty solid in the case you want to go that way.

In my experience - having a PoE switch makes choosing and adding good quality IP cams much easier that messing around with injectors and wall-wart power adapters.

I recently did some.

monoprice cat6a UTP 22awg CMR UL Listed, mono price keystones and patch panel cat6a UTP UL listed. Don't buy STP or foiled. Some area's code requires CMP for plenum run's. It's very expensive only buy to meet code.

If you're running a lot of wires I'd recommend the patch panel. If you secure it to something make sure that it can't move. One of the 4 post 20U+ racks secured down to something.

Layer3 isn't a requirement. It can speed things up by not needing to go to the router to be routed. You can run a lot of services on your router so passing traffic through it is not a bad thing. a switch with spf+ and a pfsense box with spf+ can get you 10G. 10G is overkill in most cases. Many 2+ switches have bonding. So you can do 2 or 4g that way.

unifi has a 16 port switch with POE. It's pricey. You can get 10G switches around that price. POE adds quite a bit of cost. If it's only for unifi access points you can inject power to them, there is no price difference for injectors. Buying an injector with many slots is an option too.

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Systems-SmartPro-Stackable-DGS-1510-20/dp/B00MCZNW5G?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540398551&sr=1-3&keywords=unifi+16+port+poe+switch

It works pretty much just like a hub but separates the information on each port. I will link one I'm a minute.

Edit: here is a link to an unmanaged switch. Just plug and go like the hub. So there is one port for in cable to the router like the hub then plug your desktop cable into one of the other four ports. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1V6QDbBYYZA90

you can use installed network cable for options other than POE, just FYI.

for example, you can run network devices that need regular 12v power using a balun such as, https://www.amazon.com/WT-GAF-12v12w-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Switches/dp/B017J8WJ5E/

or you can use the color pairs as if they are individual conductors for intercom systems that use unshielded 2 conductor architecture.

just want to be sure you're not skipping an option because you're limiting your search to POE.

-

Aiphone makes 2-conductor video intercoms for $$ that should be able to work on cat5 using the color-matched pairs as regular conductors. they make IP based video intercoms for $$$$, that will definitely work on your existing cable.

hikvision makes video intercoms, although i haven't used them, they look nice. i know they have 2-conductor options, i'm not sure about ethernet native options.

another manufacture i see at one of my distributors is comelit.

https://www.aiphone.com/home/products/jo-series

https://us.hikvision.com/en/products/more-products/video-intercom

https://www.comelitgroup.com/en-us/

I've got a Trendnet TEG-s82g that works pretty well. It's cheap, it's tough, it's reliable, and it's easy to set up.

10/10 would recommend.

Well I can recommend this VLAN aware switch

I'd recommend using pfSense as router and firewall. it can be virtualized if you need.

I'd avoid expansion unless you actually need it.

First thing you need to do in my opinion is choose a hypervisor and start virtualization (in my case, I like Proxmox).

Second thing you should do in my opinion is separate storage from Proxmox so get a second server for storage and use like NFS or something to export to Proxmox.

From there, just figure out what you need or want and set up a VM for it.

To be fair Google's 10Gbps fiber is about three years away, not one. A switch for your home to support 7 PCs still costs $800. 10Gbase-T adapters for PCs are also still expensive, though in three years they will be less so - or standard. They won't have to replace the fiber though. The same single-mode fiber they are running to every home supports speeds up to 100Gbps already, and probably more eventually.

Agree that the current providers don't want to build it.

Alright thanks I'll look into this then. Do you know of any good-cheap routers off the top of your head that can let me setup a profile and make league packets have priority? like this? from one of my other comments. Or will it need to be a more expensive one. I know that one has QoS capabilities. And then this has load balancing capabilities (idk if those are the same thing lol).

Thank you so much for your fast replies. Cant tell you how much I appreciate it. I will certainly set it up the way you suggest! Final question, would any of these switches do the trick?


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ubiquiti+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-60W-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501684043&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+switch)

or would just the managed one do what i need? Unfortunately all 3 of them share the same reviews and questions answered on amazon so its hard to tell

This is pretty much what my setup looks like, although with tons more devices and small switches scattered around the house xD. My primary switch is one of these, but they have a cheaper 8-port as well. Most of my gear is in a closet so I have a fan looming over it on low, keeping things cool. Also, putting it all on a UPS means that you can finish sendind that email (or wrapping up that online game) if the power goes out, very handy.

I do not have an Ubiquiti AP yet. From what I know they use PoE, but somehow I doubt they ship with no way to power them out of the box. I have heard they do not play very well with Apple products, in which case I would suggest an AirPort Express (or Time Capsule for that wonderful 24/7 backup) as an additional AP.

The EdgeRouter setup tutorials on the Wiki are designed for WAN on port 0, LAN on port 1, and WLAN on port 2, which would mean the AP would plug right into the router. I personally did not do this, I mixed the LAN and WAN and connected exactly as your picture shows. Let me know if you need any help setting it up.

Hmm, I may have to get a switch then if that's the case... Do you happen to know of one that isn't like over $4,000 and would work for my use case? Would this one work http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-XS708E-Ethernet-XS708E-100NES/dp/B00B46AEE6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453737111&sr=8-3&keywords=10+gigabit+switch ?

I will only order one after I verify that end-to-end connectivity won't work like I think it will...

With that said, there is literally a guy in this thread who has a Windows desktop like me with two 10 gigabit ports and connects them to two different servers on the same subnet... It is literally a point-to-point/direct connection, how would that not work for file sharing? He showed me a screenshot of his speeds while filesharing and he definitely takes advantage of his 10 gigabit connection, hes using Windows on his desktop and isn't using a switch..

I don't think your choices should really be mutually exclusive. A cheap unmanaged gigabit switch would cost you @ $25. I've got 2 of these (older model though) https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S82g/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487036781&sr=1-8&keywords=gigabit+switch running at home without an issue. Been that way for 2 years or so.

But I would definitely look into upgrading that CPU. That would work fine for a simple storage node running some simple software like Sonarr, SickBeard, CouchPotato, and the like. But any heavy lifting like transcoding and streaming is going to beat up that processor pretty hard.

Upgrading to something in the mid-range like an i5 2500 (same socket) would probably double your performance or even better.

For around $200 to $250 for both CPU and switch you would probably be in decent shape. Not sure how well it'll handle 4k though since I haven't really delved into that realm myself.

Edit: I'm seeing you are running everything through the switch but only actually using 3 connections + the router. I am assuming you are using the switch because the router is in an inconvenient spot for running network cable? Otherwise I would ditch the switch and run everything through the router.

Also, ditch the coupler on the run to the NAS. Either get a long CAT6 cable or make your own. Every connection you make is the chance for something to not be quite right.

I have Cable and DSL and I use both via one of these:

TP-Link Load Balancing Router

In the one I have, I can designate what computer or device connects to what ISP. I don't know if it will do the job he is wanting, but may be worth a look. And for the price its a great wired-only router. I use a second wireless router (with DHCP disabled) as a wifi access point.

If you already have one, great, otherwise I would recommend a 1gbps switch for extended usefulness.

Take one of these and connect it to one of these and power the fan off of the PoE ports. Also, the fan I linked is a blower fan and would match nicely up against the side of the vent holes.

The way I would solve this is with a POE powered switch. Something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8NAWZ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

And a POE injector like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Ethernet-Injector-Distances-TPE-115GI/dp/B00BK4W8TQ/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W53PRR3RAEXCHYP9E100

You can use the switch where ever you like and use the POE injector to power it from one of the cables on the "remote" end where it is located near a power source.

If you need more information, let me know.

At that price point, I didn't think there would be much. If you can live with Netgear and TP-Link devices, these might work for you.

TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit PoE Easy Smart Managed Switch with 55W 4-PoE Ports IEEE 802.3af compliant (TL-SG108PE)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4+port+managed+switch+poe&qid=1558541134&s=gateway&sr=8-3

NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Smart Managed Pro Switch, 53w, PoE, ProSAFE (GS110TPv2)

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS110TPv2/dp/B00LW9A328/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=4+port+managed+switch+poe&qid=1558541134&s=gateway&sr=8-4

So you want to add more wifi to solve your too much wifi problem? And no, your cable company is extremely unlikely to sell you a second cable internet package for the same address. That would be required to have a second modem complete a handshake with them.

Spectrum is a limited resource. A second SSID in an otherwise uncluttered wireless space will add more bandwidth, but only if you are using sufficiently modern technology (some N, all AC, disable G and B mode.). You could do this by putting a second wireless router in bridge mode hooked up to your existing router. I do not recommend doing this, but do disable G and B mode if you can. It will help you regardless.

I suggest an alternate solution: Ethernet. Sounds like you have a bunch of TVs with ~3 wireless devices hooked to them each (TV, Game Console, DirecTV Box Of Magic). You can buy a small ethernet switch and some cheap, short, ethernet cables (<$1/foot MAX), and either a wireless bridge or powerline adapters. Plug everything you can into the switch, disable the wireless in the devices, and then join only the wireless bridge to your network.

This will hopefully remove 2+ wireless devices per TV, the imac, and printer. Sadly the chromecast and amazon fire sticks don't have ethernet available. I didn't know people owned echo's.

I've done setups at businesses using two internet connections; usually it's set up for redundancy so you have one that's primary and a slower one that's a different company that's the fallback. I've also set them up for bandwidth sharing; in that arrangement there are a few different options too.

It's not bad. Something like this TP Link load balancer might be a good option since it's a dedicated device and designed for up to four WAN ports. Never used it before so I'd suggest poking around to see how hard it is to configure.

If you want to go "pro" on the "cheap", get an Ubiquiti Network UniFi Switch or if you're more old school and want the CLI and more fancy L3 features, the EdgeSwitch. It's enterprise quality gear at SOHO prices.

This is what I use personally: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=sr_1_5

Like all Unifi series gear from Ubiquiti it requires running their management software to configure it. Makes it super easy to setup if you're not into the CLI thing. Their Wifi AP's and other gear are reasonably priced and kick ass as well.

My system uses a home computer that has a big drive and is left on all the time.

Blue Iris software is the standard -- it will handle as many cameras as you want to add, and it will also do triggering, motion sensing, and date/time stamp. This is a must. Be careful not to buy cameras that require an app to use them; only buy cameras compatible with Blue Iris.

For cameras, it is worth wiring them if you possibly can. The wireless ones suffer from low fidelity and flakiness. Use POE cameras; power-over-Ethernet requires a power injector switch like this one -- this means you only need to run one cable to the camera and not a separate power line as well.

Quality cameras are super cheap now. I just bought this 4MP unit for under $100 -- it's twice as good for half the money as the one I bought 3 years ago.

All of the triggered clips are saved in a folder that is synced to Dropbox, so I can browse them from work, etc. I don't get alerts because they're annoying, but I do like seeing if the mailman came.

Why do you need to create a VLAN for your guest WiFi? I'm fairly sure (like 80% sure) that within the Unifi AP config, you can create a guest network and segregate it from your main network. It's not a true VLAN, but it accomplishes the same thing.

What are you using for you Layer 3 device? A consumer WiFi router or a pfSense box?

If you want to stay in the Unifi environment you can pick up a non-PoE 24-port switch for ~$190

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-24-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2IPPCTEPR6CMS&keywords=unifi+24+port+poe+switch+250w&qid=1566319361&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi+24%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-5

​

Edited to fix typos...

Looks like a new one is $195-220 on Amazon, I bet you could put it on there for $160-180 easy and get it sold, just make sure you note that it was only a year old and used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01LZBLO0U/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8

The easiest thing to do is leave the modem/router where it is and connect the router to an ethernet port in that room. At the panel, find the wire from the room where the router is located and plug it into a cheap switch like this. Connect the rest of the ethernet wires in the panel to the switch (or at least those wires that you want to have Internet access) and you're good to go.

That particular switch is limited to 10/100. A slightly more expensive gigabit-capable model might be better. I've had good luck with this one (of which I have three):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2H0YFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I would do is download something like iSpy (open source video surveillance program) buy my cameras (I prefer IP cameras ran over PoE ethernet cabling), buy my cabling, and buy a PoE switch with however many ports you need based on how many cameras you plan on installing...

www.ispyconnect.com

https://www.amazon.com/BV-Tech-Port-Switch-Ports-Uplink/dp/B005GAATOG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015816&sr=1-3&keywords=8+port+poe+switch

https://www.amazon.com/Jennov-Security-Surveillance-Outdoor-Detection/dp/B074MQP24Q/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527016359&sr=1-18&keywords=ip+PoE+cameras

Something like this if you want to build your own system... or

https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Surveillance-Weatherproof-Security-RLK8-410B2D2/dp/B010UH3NQ0/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527016607&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=reolink+nvr+8+channel&psc=1

Plug and play

You are approaching this correctly I think.

If you are running wiring you will want to pick a location to be the network rack. typically where the lines come in the house (but obviously that doesn't matter here)

Get a 19in rack and mount it.



Patch Panel for punching down your terminations there.

Get a shelf.

Probably looking at a 16-port switch? Maybe 24?

I like the Unifi stack for everything. lots of people say the edge routers, which makes some sense for one location I guess. It's a little bit more detailed UI. Literally the same hardware though.

I like the USG. If it were me I would probably put in the Pro, because rackmount, but that's stupid crazy overkill from a tech perspective. It would bother me irrationally, just the form factor.

Then you drop your Access Points in. It depends on how the house is setup, but you want to put them where you actually will use them. At 4000sqft, 2-3 should cover it, depending on layout.



> So looking for suggestions on setup. Was thinking about going all Ubiquiti gear but alot of people say it can be challenging to setup but great once you get it working. With the hassle of moving, young kids, and dealing with getting internet in the first place Im not sure I have time for something that will take a while to get working great.

It won't take much time at all to actually set it up. Physically setting it up will be the time consuming bit. The technical setup will be nothing to someone who runs a VM server. In fact you will do what I do and just spin up a headless ubuntu instance and install the controller. You click adopt a few times on the hardware in a pretty UI and it's done.

What's stopping you from plugging your wife's PC directly into the router? If it's just one cable in the room, then your best option is to use a switch. Cheapest one will do, preferably gigabit.

https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-5-Port-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GO-SW-5G/dp/B008PC1FYK

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SMC

One of those for example.

The kind of bridging you did should technically do the job, but it's the last solution anyone would recommend. Not worth toubleshooting imo.

If you have the opportunity to go wired, use it. WiFi extenders usually decrease performance for everybody because air is a shared medium.

Imagine a guy screaming in your direction. If you shut up and listen, you can repeat what he said in the direction of another guy. The other guy will have to wait for you to stop yelling, then answer, you'll have to wait and yell at the first guy.

Sounds pretty inefficient? That's a WiFi extender for you.

Use MoCa to get signal to your bedroom. Put a switch there if you want to use more than one device. Put an AP there if you want wireless.

MoCa adapter $169.00

Dumb switch $15.99

Access point $75.88

So, you'll have to shell out $260.87 for a setup that'll be orders of magnitude better than your WiFi extender stuff.

Found a good one here . Does this take as input 3 internet connections? Thank you. :-)

Interesting. I wish there was a list of semi-managed switches, or that manufacturers would use that term in the product description.

So that unmanaged/semi-managed TP-Link would support static link aggregation, but none of these Netgear unmanaged switches supports any kind of link aggregation?: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/

I would say a couple Ubiquiti Lite's would cover the WiFi needs well.

You can just use all Ubiquiti gear to keep management unified. You can install the controller software in a VM or get the HW controller.

US-16-150W UniFi Switch

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG)

Ubiquiti Unifi Cloud Key - Remote Control Device (UC-CK) - This can be omitted and you can run the same SW in a VM on a always on PC. You can also just spin it up when you want to make changes, but then you will not be able to use some of the advanced features.

each cluster of cameras should be wired POE cams fed by a POE switch.

then the fun part for you: wireless backhaul the cams to the primary site/NVR assuming you can get LOS -- you'll need a AP for each side of each link because you're going to be pushing a ton of data. it is always better to wire between your main clusters and only use wireless if you can't.

the bulk of the cost is going to be an electrician to run the conduit/wire. getting community members to help with labor could drop that significantly. if you do everything in conduit and leave pull strings in every run then if future problems/upgrades happen then there won't be much labor.

Get this Gigabit switch: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ and you won't bottle neck anything. And you will still have 5 free ports on the switchafter you plug in everything you currently have. Or you could step up to the 16 port version and have 13 ports free: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AX8XHRQ

i'm not certain about the xb1's but i used to play halo 2 at a store and we had probably 5 og xbox's on lan. they used an unmanaged switch like this. i'd guess that the same works for xb1. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/130-3857015-5709528?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07S98YLHM&pd_rd_r=50aee12c-11ed-462e-9c0e-a4915da8ce70&pd_rd_w=jKlqD&pd_rd_wg=YYeRr&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=ZKSBSS49SGTWJCCKP481&psc=1&refRID=ZKSBSS49SGTWJCCKP481

I looked at the Hikvision-DS-2CD2032 and it is a great picture and the price doesn't hurt my wallet. When I looked it up at amazon it suggested that I also get these
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF1008P-100Mbps-8-Port-802-3af/dp/B003CFATT2/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z

since im thinking of getting 3 cameras do I need them?

Here is what you need to do. Step by step.

1. Remove the cable connecting from the modem to your router and connect a laptop instead.
   
2. Use the Public IP you use on your router on your laptop
   
3. See if you have an active internet connection.
   
4. If yes, then your ISP is not the problem.
   
   Now for your redundancy, yes you can use the ATT Wireless and have it failover automatically using a loadbalancer device.
   
   Here is the device we are using and is very cheap.
   
   TP-LINK Safestream TL-470T+ 10/100 Broadband Desktop Loadbalance Router
   
   You can use up to 4 different ISP here.
   
   ​
   
   Once you are confident that the WAN is working as expected, only then you can fix your problem internally (firewall, DNS, URL blocking etc)

Don’t send that high an amperage directly over your cables. IMO if your doubling up wires the risk is low, but it’s not worth it if something goes wrong and keeps sending current or some other weird event happens.

Instead, use a POE switch and something on the other end like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017J8WJ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2YJACbRKGF3BE

They work great and can be modified to power all sorts of neat stuff!

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price

--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price

--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price

--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price

--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price

--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price

--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price

--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price

--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price

--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price

--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

WT-GAF-12v12w 802.3af Gigabit Poe Splitter with 12 Volts Output. Power Over Ethernet for Non-poe Devices Like IP Cameras to 328 Ft for PoE Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017J8WJ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_DudR4gDFAUgyV

Bought that to turn a 12v noctura fan I have in the window on an off based on a temperature reading and a script the would shut/no shut the port... I cut the top off the adapter and spliced the power lines.

Edit: Looks like you need 12v@2a. Find an adapter that does specifically that and wire it up however you want.

Ubiquiti.

It's not just a WiFi router, it's an AP that will connect to a Switch and has a hardware Security Gateway protecting the whole network.

If you want some quality equipment, Ubiquiti is pretty nice. Online Management, Stats and graphs and loads of functionality.

If you can plug both the PC and the camera into the router, that would be ideal. PoE injector will work for the power, or ideally, get a PoE switch to provide the power and connect both (PC and cam) to the switch, then switch to router. Example of cheap PoE switch. I run everything off PoE switches here - it just works.

A switch is exactly what you're looking for. I think something like this would be perfect: https://www.amazon.com.au/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Unmanaged-GS205-100AUS/dp/B00KFD0SMC/

This switch is a good one: TP-Link SG-1016D - $72 on Amazon. It should have holes in the bottom of the case to hang it on 2 screws.

This is also a good one: Netgear GS316 - $61 on Amazon. It's slimmer than the TP-Link since all the ports are in a single row. It also comes with a wall mount kit.

I'm fairly certain it's 10Gbit all the way. Mellanox Connect-X 2 in my PC, one of these SFP+ modules, LC fiber to the other SFP+ in the switch, this from the switch to the other Mellanox card in my unRAID server.

Oh I know; it's more of a learning exercise with the benefit of at least getting more than 1Gb/s between my PC and unRAID server for copying files.

You may need a small switch if you don’t have any free ports or don’t have easy access to your wireless router.

If you are going to use RDP you can just leave the ‘B’ machine in another room.


Under $20 switch - TRENDnet 5-Port Unmanaged Gigabit GREENnet Desktop Metal Housing Switch, 10 Gbps Switching Fabric, Lifetime Protection, TEG-S50g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QUA6R0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLCyCbC5VGY05

You couldn't be more wrong.
Anything that says FULL DUPLEX is capable of delivering speeds symmetrically for an unlimited amount of time. A full duplex gigabit switch will NEVER throttle and slow down anything. A gigabit switch without "full duplex" tag WILL occasionally cause slowing downs, POSSIBLY at least.

There is this great switch, TP-LINK SG1016, which is a full duplex gigabit switch, going on a deal on amazon now: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-TL-SG1016/dp/B002HAJQGA for $60.
Definitely worth $60 for a full duplex gig switch over some crap 5 port consumer grade shieeett

As said the port on the PlayBar will work but it might prove a bit slow if you have fast Ethernet as Sonos only does 100 not 1000.

Try it and if it isn't fast enough for glitch free TV over Ethernet viewing add an inexpensive Ethernet switch, similar to this:

https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=sr_1_4

Avoid any on this list:

https://support.sonos.com/s/article/41?language=en_US

Five ports gives you an input for the cable from your router and four outputs for TV, Sub and PlayBar plus a spare. Eight ports isn't much more expensive if you think you have any use for them.

Unifi PoE+ switches may suitable : US-16-150W, US‑24‑250W, US‑24‑500W. They are quite cost-effective compared to the other switch. I have one and works great.
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-poe/

US-16-150W: only $282.92 at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=twister_B01L18EHAI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For the money the unifi switch is a better deal. You get more ports, and it's easier to manage.

Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_brT9AbDEM5BDY

Check out Ubiquiti, you can ask what people think over on that subreddit, but the US-16-150W will do PoE on all 16 ports, but limited by the power draw. It provides 802.af/at and 24v on in one package, also supports VLANs and the other usual stuff.

Just slightly over your budget but has some nice features.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UBIQUITI-US-16-150W-Port-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504555223&sr=8-14&keywords=ubiquiti

>Should I just plant a couple hundred dollars of gear up there?

Unless it's hardened gear (nothing on your parts list is) I wouldn't. High heat + consumer grade electronics = failure.

>My solution is to have the gear sitting in an office closet that will stay cool and run the cable line to the modem there.

This would work fine, as long as you can keep the runs under 100m (gigabit spec on CAT5e). Also make sure you terminate everything properly.

Another option that comes to mind is stick a hardened switch in the attic then drop a single gigabit run from that down to your Linysys router in the office closet.

Something else to keep in mind is that for roughly the same $200 you are spending on that router you could get an EdgeRouter and AP and have better performance all the way around. There are also cheaper switch options.

I set up a 10 Gbps backbone for my home network this year, with 3 10 gig devices connected to it. FreeNAS server, unRAID server, and one Windows desktop. I don't use pfsense, so you should double-check that pfsense includes drivers for the cards you pick, or you could be in for some pain.

While you can achieve 10 Gbps over quality copper network cables, I went with fiber optic. Fiber optic networking has been around for a long time in many forms, so there are a lot of standards. There are two main types of cable. Multi mode and single mode. This cable type must match the fiber optic transceivers you use on each end. Then there are different qualities of cable. OS1, OS2 for single mode, and OM1, OM2, OM3, OM4 for multi mode. Higher numbers indicate better cable quality. Read up on the limitations of each. Finally there are a bunch of different connector types. LC is the most common from what I have seen. There are actually two kinds of LC, and one of them has an angled end, but those are a lot less common than ends that are cut off at 90 degrees. I'm not really clear on why two kinds exist.

​

ANYWAY these are what I bought and they all work fine together:

8x transceiver: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Finisar-FTLX8571D3BNL-10GB-SFP-SR-850nm-Transceiver/173943155751?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

2x NIC card: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mellanox-MHZH29-XTR-ConnectX-2-VPI-Standard-Profile-Network-Adapter/333292618107?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

1x NIC card: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MHZH29-XTR-MELLANOX-CONNECTX-2-VPI-DUAL-PORT-NETWORK-ADAPTER-CARD/223585259766?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

1x switch: http://amzn.com/B0723DT6MN

1x switch: http://amzn.com/B07LFKGP1L

1x long armored cable (Multimode, LC-LC duplex, OM3): http://amzn.com/B07JHKKCVY

Plus a bunch of different length patch cords (Multimode, LC-LC duplex, OM3) from fs.com

​

I specifically chose new Mikrotik switches as opposed to buying older used enterprise switches because the price difference isn't that great, and the Mikrotik switches are fanless.

Saved a boatload of money buying used NICs, and also quite a bit buying used fiber optic transceivers. New 10 GBE transceivers can easily run $20+ each, and new NICs can easily be $100+ USD each.

​

Total cost was still a few hundred USD, but that is a LOT lower than it could have been!

> 4 are outdoor and PoE using this switch:
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATT2

Just a heads up for anyonelooking for this switch, this is a fast ethernet switch. That is, it only goes up to 100Mbps and not gigabit.

This may be important if you are looking for an all-in-one switch for your home network as well as your cameras.

There is a newer version of the above switch that supports PoE and gigabit:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop-TL-SG1008P/dp/B00BP0SSAS/ref=dp_ob_title_ce?dpID=41EWV2w2eQL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail&th=1

It's noname Chinese gear, so as long as you're not expecting much. I'd go with a better switch though, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B00BP0SSAS/

Also, cat 6. Nobody uses 5e anymore.

Go with a "name brand", and look for the best warranty, highest rated total throughput (per port, and "switch fabric").

I'm using a TRENDnet 8-port under my TV, has worked well for me for nearly a decade, quiet (fanless) and simple; their metal-enclosed network switches have a limited lifetime warranty.

If you stick another router behind the Quantum gateway you'll be double NAT'ing which is aweful for things like online gaming and external port forwarding.

You'll want to use the Quantum Gateway as a MOCA bridge. To do this follow the guide here...
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31057540-Networking-HOW-TO-Bridge-G1100-So-your-Router-becomes-Primary

Check this to see how you should plug everything in.
https://pastebin.com/QUNvTfSs

ONT -> New Router -> New Switch <- Quantum Gateway <- Set Top Boxes (COAX)
^
|
Wireless AP(s)
Your new network switch should be the central connection point for all of your wired devices.

(I personally have a 3 port USG with my gigabit FiOS service and get 900+ up/down without issue).

If you're looking for a full Ubiquiti Unifi Setup a switch like this https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B or they also have models with more ports. Or you can use a dumb switch like a D-Link or TP-Link model of equal size.

So wait. You want one or many PoE ports? With just one, I'd probably go for a PoE injector.

Otherwise something like this would work fine.

Mikrotik has a 10gb model in this price range, 24 gig ports and 2 SFP+

​

Sorry its a little more expensive 143.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CSS326&qid=1554210393&s=gateway&sr=8-3

>1) There isn't any power in the hub, but there is one on the opposing wall in the closet it's located in. Does PoE offer any advantages that makes buying an infuser better than running a power wire?

Nah no difference it's just convenience.

>2) Am I going to suffer any network issues by running a security system after the switch? I'm not sure about the network sensitivity of the security system (it has cellphone and battery backup). I just don't want the switch to have a continuous connectivity "hickup" and set off my alarm randomly.

Shouldn't be an issue if it's made by a reputable company.

>3) What do you recommend for a switch?

A Cisco SG300-10 non-POE

Hey, thanks! I was looking at that one,

the GS305 https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/?th=1

and this GS808e https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Streaming-Advanced-Ethernet/dp/B01MU3GE5L/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=netgear+gs808e&qid=1568765089&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I'm willing to spend the extra for the 808e, but is it worth it?

++ u/OtherTechnician

OP, I second that. Those little Netgears are small, silent, sturdy, and reliable. And available for $15 at the moment.

There are two reasons you could say it slows down the connection:

1. You could get a switch that only supports 100Mbps instead of 1Gbps. But if it's from a name brand and it says “gigabit” (like the Netgear above), you should be fine.
   
2. That port in the wall is a 1Gbps bottleneck. If you plug in four devices via a switch, they'll be sharing that 1Gbps between them. But you'd have to be doing a lot to hit that limit.
   
   \ In most UW locations. Some with old wiring are stuck at 100Mbps or less for now. Some fancy labs and stuff have 10Gbps.

Yes they are. Here is the data sheet. I got my SG-300 10 Port Gig switch on Amazon for $164 new I believe.

http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/switches/small-business-smart-switches/data_sheet_c78-610061.html

Edit: They are $133 on Amazon now:

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG300-10-10-port-Gigabit-SRW2008-K9-NA/dp/B0041ORN6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454007679&sr=8-1&keywords=cisco+sg-300

never heard of them.

ive got 4 of these scattered around the planet. 2 at customers, and 2 at my places. oldest one is (roughly) 3-4 years old now. never had a single moment of issue. i also use it to power my ring stick up cams... works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GAATOG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Free lan cable is nice, so I may be overstepping, but it's the same price, new, on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-GREENnet-Switching-Protection-TEG-S82G/dp/B00C2H0YFU

There is a 16 port Netgear "Managed Plus" with POE going for ~45% off that supports 802.3af and up to 15 watts/port that I was tempted by (but out of my personal blow money limit for the month), and a TP-Link 8 Port w/ 4 POE Unmanaged that is going on sale at 10:45 that I am very tempted by due to the plans to upgrade the network to Ubiquiti AC Pros.

Of course, the $59.93 price is only like $10 more than the 5 port w/ 4 POE switches are regularly...

That doesn't make it "impossible" it makes it easy.
Buy a couple of Netgear switches.

16-port
5-port
Done.

One thing to possibly consider is getting a wifi access-point and use that for the 4/5-port switch and extend the wifi to upstairs.

Generally, 8-port switch is desktop switch. I am curious about what a 8 or 12 port rack mountable gigabit switch is used for. Maybe this TP-Link 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch fit your needs. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HAJQGA/ref=psdc_281414_t3_B004EIFCHK)

You need a switch. A "dumb" one will do. Feed the switch from that one port on the wall. Plug your devices into the switch. Just make sure whatever is on the other end of that wall port is still connected to a modem/router/switch.

Something like this:(sorry for the long link)

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S82g/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483048477&sr=8-3&keywords=trendnet+8+port+gigabit+switch

If you have a decent budget I would look at Ubiquiti unifi network stuff.

Here is a router, access point, and the controller that configures and monitors everything.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-USG-Security-UC-CK-UAP-AC-PRO/dp/B07C87SQ9W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1F33LBHXUCZ52&keywords=unifi%2Bsecurity%2Bgateway&qid=1550283380&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi%2B&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&th=1


Switch with power over Ethernet to power the access points


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=unifi+switch&qid=1550283561&s=gateway&sr=8-4


In wall access points that you can place in strategic spots in your house if you want better coverage.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=35O92BTS4KY1I&keywords=unifi+in+wall+hd&qid=1550283677&s=gateway&sprefix=unifi+in+&sr=8-2


You can learn more here

unifi-sdn.ui.com

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS105PE-Pass-through-GS105PE-10000S/dp/B00J8NAWZ8

Never used it but it sounds like it'd do what you want

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539535616&sr=8-1&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539535605&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+lite

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1539535854&sr=8-17&keywords=poe+switch+8

​

You might need a second access point depending on the wall penetration, or the layout of your home. Ubiquiti switches are more expensive, threw in a tp-link POE smart switch. The initial setup on the erx is very simple.

​

As an alternative, the EAP225 access point from tp-link.

What you want to do is take the cables that are placed into that hub thing and plug them into a switch instead.

The hub is for phone lines and will not work the way you are tying to.

 

Before plugging the cables into the switch, check out their cable layout inside the RJ-45 jack (the cable end).

Make sure all 8 cables are there, and connected in the right order: either the common 568B or the 568A way.

It is important, especially if the rooms are not yet punched down or crimped (with a RJ-45 end), as you will need to match cable layout on both ends of the cable.

 

Now that cables are all set up right, labeled, and properly cable managed, you can plug them into your router or switch (depends on how many you have).

If you have more cables than your generally 4 port router can support, then just get a 16 or 24 or 48 port switch.

As you can see, price goes up just a little between 16 and 24 ports, but massively to 48 ports.

Get the one you need, plug everything in, then plug one cable from the router LAN port to a switch port, and you are in business.

>Araknis Networks® 110 Series Unmanaged+ Gigabit Compact Switch (16 Port) $344.95

BWAHAHAHAHA

Yeah you can get an unmanaged switch for less than 20% of that: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/

Heck, you can get a decent managed switch for half of that: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-JGS516PE-100NAS-Rackmount-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00GG1ACX2/

>Araknis Power Supply for Compact Network Switch - 48V $59.99

So really this is a $405 switch because literally every switch I've ever bought includes the damn power supply.

> Parts and supplies used to complete the project. (RJ45 ends, RJ45 keystones)$50.00

This... actually isn't a bad price. A good crimping tool can run you $25 to $50. A box of connectors is at lest $10 and keystone jacks are probably more.

>Labor $570 for 3 hours

(LAUGHS IN DEBT) What a friggin rip off.

I would rate this as pretty good "competent beginner" stuff. The hardest part is getting the connectors wired correctly. Once you've done that a few times (prepare to make some bad cables) it's actually very easy.

Thank you.

Was looking at the Ubiquiti ones, and saw this on Amazon after looking at it on their website:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493217603&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+switch+8

The Ubiquiti switch 8... I think this might be sufficient for me. Dumb question though, the various different switches that Ubiquiti offers have different voltages. How would I know which one I need? Is it simple the number of ethernet ports I need? If so the 8 is plenty..

Edit: After reading a little more about it, I think this only gives me 4 ethernet ports? Limited research but I think 4 is plenty... I only have 1 AP at the moment. I guess my question becomes, where would other network attached electronics be attached (i.e. NAS, Vonage VOIP, etc).

Looks like I need to spend a couple hours tonight learning and researching about how this works

If all you want is a dumb swith I agree with /u/CollateralFortune . But I also agree with /u/G01d3ngypsy and I would spend a few more bucks and get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-CSS326-24G-2S-RM-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519311016&sr=1-3&keywords=mikrotik+24+port+switch

I've been meaning to setup the ER-Lite as my VPN server or similar for a while now. A project for a rainy day. For the time being, it just hangs out on DHCP without any real use. Even have a PoE adapter to supply it power xD

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I might recommend this line of switches, will run dumb or managed:
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-SG300-10-10-port-Gigabit-SRW2008-K9-NA/dp/B0041ORN6U

Also, I use monoprice cat6 toolless and punch down ends at work, never had any issues with them. I love them. I have even used the high end ICC and other brand ones that are ~$12 a piece and I just haven't encountered a time where I wished I spent that much on everything...

Why do you want a CLI and not a web console?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-8-Port-Gigabit-Managed-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503085221&sr=8-3&keywords=8+port+managed+switch+poe

>PoE

>VLAN, QoS, IGMP Snooping, rate limiting and traffic monitoring

This is pretty much all the features you would expect out of a managed switch minus link aggregation. But you're not really doing that with your intel NUCs are you?

Do you really need PoE with intel NUCs? These are not PoE powered devices...

Why do you have so many NUCs anyway? What did you put on them? This is a very strange setup and request.

Just go with a gigabit unmanaged switch. I have used this one multiple times and really like it. For only $23 you cant go wrong: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Gigabit-GREENnet-TEG-S82g/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494278927&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=gigabit+switch&psc=1

/u/SoonAfterThen's recommendation is good, but I've started using TRENDnet stuff (see this one) and I've had zero problems. Not that Netgear's bad, necessarily, but it is cheaper and just as good. They'reTRENDnet is a more enterprise-focused company, so their small cheap stuff is a little more no-frills.

here a $15 5-port gig switch...i have around a dozen of these running strong for 8+ years...plug the current cable into this, and run 2 new ones to your PC & PS4

You're welcome! If that's what fixed it, awesome. As others have suggested, getting a small switch (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM as an example) will prevent this from being an issue in the future, since the PC and the Xbox will stay connected, and won't need the be swapped out all the time.

Since it was both devices, I suspect the switch on the other end of your wired connection triggered some kind of lockout from re-associating too many times, or in too short of a period, but that's only barely graduated from a wild guess at this point.

Netgear have a couple of switches that I've debated throwing inside a wall - They both are PoE powered so you just need to get one Cat6 cable to them. That said, it's not cheap, so almost less headaches to just run more cable :)

5 ports w/ PoE

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Switch-GS105PE-10000S/dp/B00J8NAWZ8

8 ports w/o PoE
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS108T-Gigabit-1000Mbps/dp/B003KP8VSK

Is this the switch? If I look at the back it seems to have a fan?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cloud-Smart-Switch-326-24G-2S-RM/dp/B0723DT6MN/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=mikrotik&qid=1571233995&sr=8-17

Couple Prime Day deal ones right now. This one for $30 and this one for $35

$35 one looks nicer quality

First, get a network hub like this and you wont need to unplug any cable.

If your using windows 10 just plug the cable in correctly then turn off the PC and turn it back on again. That usually takes care of the issue

That must be why 10GbE is starting to appear on consumer switches, and the upper end of consumer gear.

Thecus, QNAP and other NAS manufacturers now have low-cost models that ship with 10GBase-T installed from the factory

Reason: A single run of the mill HDD can totally saturate gigabit Ethernet

Got it. Enjoy your "office with 12 people."

Exactly. Also, I just picked up one of these . OP can pick one up with more or less ports as needed.

Thanks for taking the time to explain this. It sounds spot-on!

So should something like this work better?

Using this USG

And using this Switch

Then I was going to just grab a 24 Patch Panel and a small Wall Mounted Rack off of Monoprice. Then Whenever I expand the network later, I wont be having to buy more. Unless I'm just over killing.

Thank you! I was able to find this!

TP-LINK TL-R470T+ Load Balance Broadband Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b69lDbR76PQBX

But that’s not what I’m suggesting at all. I’ve bridged the WiFi and ethernet to my home PC. I could easily just share that out.

Or I could put a bridge (which is not that expensive) after the router and have it bridge the signals. Like this...

TP-Link SafeStream TL-R470T+ Fast Ethernet Load Balance Broadband Router, Multi-WAN, 96M NAT throughput, 30k Concurrent Sessions, 256 DHCP Clients https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SYQBN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P0zgAb23YDVR9

What you’re suggesting would work but is way overkill imo.

If you are in a 1BR or studio, only one ethernet port on the wall will be active. If you want to connect multiple things to ethernet, you'll need to split the line with a network switch.

Here's the one one I used: amazon

If I'm building a router with pfSense sitting on top of the switch, would the switch itself need Layer 3 capabilities? pfSense would be handling most of that functionality I would think, right?

If that's the case, would a lower power, more gui-friendly option like this be doable for the switch?

Yeah, that's not a bad idea: install keystones in your attic ducting, put a switch inside that runs on POE. Then just run a POE line from your closet downstairs, through the conduit, to the "in" port of your keystones and all your cameras on the "out" ports.