(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical tape

I've spent a stupid amount of time looking things up over the last few years and always keep note on what bars and plates I use at other gyms (I probably drop into 20-30 different gyms every year at least). Always glad to help someone else out so they don't get stuck trying to figure out what works best from the large selection around now.

There are definitely other similar priced bars and plates, but those were the ones that I found best of the group especially considering the price. The Keystone bar was a lot nicer than I expected it to be. Had to do heavy jerks, heavy power cleans, and medium weight snatches and it worked beautifully for everything.

Also this is the electrical tape I used for the plates. I found it best to really clean off the plates first and get them nice and dry, then start applying it. Stretch it very slightly while putting it on, and have it overlap an inch or two at the end. Holds up great actually, better than I expected it to and makes the plates look a lot fancier than they are.

Happy Almost Birthday! :)

My best birthday present I got was for my 17th birthday my Dad got me an acoustic guitar. It is a really pretty blue and I was about to start a guitar class in high school, so I was really excited to have my own guitar! :)

Item

I have found that electrical tape (the black stretchy stuff) is really good at totally sealing off the tops of dapper decants as well as spray tops. Just kind of gently stretch it as you go around. It also comes off pretty easily as long as it's not on there for like 3 years or something.

Great write-up. I haven't finished reading yet, but wanted to point out that a heatsink is a really nice addition to the StemPod to combat the heat. I got this one and it doesn't affect resistance, helps with efficiency, and looks pretty badass imho (in silver)

1 PCS Metal Cooling Base Heat Sink for 510 Thread Tank,Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z1TV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_TphXcbgFjwFuM

I also recommend wrapping the lip end of your stems with this stuff. It really helps with manipulating while hot and allows you to session hotter without hurting yourself.

Homgaty 1 Rolls Black Repair... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779MCF6V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Installed a lightning suppressor on my ham antenna at home. It won't survive a direct hit but it will help prevent equipment damage from nearby strikes. Waterproofed the shit out of it with some Mastic tape and Super 33+. Of course if I'm home during a storm I will disconnect and lower the antenna. We don't have many thunderstorms here anyway, but it's good to be prepared.

Organized some of the ham gear into a waterproof hard case. Contains two handheld radios, one mobile/base radio, and a DBJ-2 roll-up antenna, along with related accessories.

Inventoried the emergency supplies in my car, and thought of a few things I'd like to add. I had a kit of spare fuses but they were the wrong size! Lesson learned, always check stuff like that.

Working on my physical and mental health. I've been reading about meditation. It's something you can do anywhere, for free, that has all kinds of benefits to well-being. Now I need to find a way to practice consistently every day.

I'm happy to help. So the best way to set up a photocell is supposed to be like in this graphic. It can work without adding the 10k resistor, but it will work better this way, from what I understand.

Use electrical tape. I recommend Scotch 33+. It's expensive for tape, but there's no other electrical tape out there that compares, and a roll should last a long time. But whatever, you can get a little roll of electrical tape at lots of dollar stores.

If you're struggling to get 8 hours a night, you can focus on deepening the sleep you do get instead of sleeping longer.

• Black out your room at night. This is the biggest one for me. I have cheap blackout shades and I use electrical tape to cover internet routers, smoke alarms - anything that flashes. Get your room dark enough that you can't see your hand in front of your face. Even a little light will fuck with your melatonin production and compromise your sleep quality.
  
  
  
• If you use electronics at night, download f.lux. It's a free program that removes blue light from your monitor after the sun sets. Your phone should have night mode under settings; turn that on as well. Light in the blue spectrum is the biggest melatonin disruptor.
  
  
  
• Take 400 mg of magnesium citrate or magnesium glycinate before bed. It eases stress and causes a dramatic increase in sleep quality. Plus, a good percentage of the population is deficient in magnesium, so you could probably use a little extra anyway. If you go for magnesium citrate, start at 200 mg and move up to 400 mg over the course of a couple days. Too much at once will make you shit your pants. Glycinate doesn't have that issue, but isn't quite as bioavailable.
  
  
  
• Take 300 mcg of melatonin right before bed. Melatonin is a hormone your body uses to encourage deep sleep, and taking it in pill form will knock you right out. It's prescription in the UK, over-the-counter in the US. Most doses are far too high (2-10 mg), and can impair your natural melatonin production if you take them regularly without a break. Stick with 300mcg (linked above); it's the minimum effective dose and won't mess with your hormones long-term.
  
  
• I also drink kava tea on nights when I really can't sleep. It's more for stress relief/anxiety than for sleep, but if you find you have trouble winding down at night it can be a big help. Don't drink alcohol alongside kava; the active compounds, kavalactones, bind to the same brain receptors that alcohol does, meaning the effects of the two stack.
  
  
• Don't take sleeping pills if you can avoid them. I'm not a doctor, and I'm not saying you should ignore your doctor, but sleeping pills don't actually put you into stage 3 and stage 4 sleep (the deep, restorative sleep your brain needs). They can also cause a lot of neurological side effects.
  
  Source: neuroscientist who focused on psychopharmacology and sleep when I was getting my degree.

Ahh, I thought that meant he was building the last batch that sold. It's very clever of him to include conductive tape so that you don't have to solder anything.

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fm2adapter.cart.fc2.com%2Fca1%2F1%2Fp-r-s%2F&edit-text=&act=url

First time I've heard of it, pretty cool stuff

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1656

https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/9703-series/9987

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Axis-Electrically-Conductive-Double-Sided/dp/B00K3377EG

Here you go, https://www.amazon.com/Double-Strong-Adhesive-Acrylic-Tablets/dp/B019OQ4ZG0

used it to reattach a phone battery. it's strong if done correctly. 3mm should be small enough to stick the edges of the screen

forgot to say that it's really strong as i need to pry the battery again when I need to align it.it's 3M, quality stuff here

$10? Dude, I see $0.67 of components, that's a great margin!

• 0.63 for the cable ($31.50 for 50)
  
• 0.03 for the clip ($5.75 for 200)
  
• 0.01 for 2" of tape ($4.60 for 66')

> My question is what are the usual differences between an original MP and a V2 or V3 and should I hold off on getting the re-issue.

Generally newer versions of MP toys become more cartoon accurate and better articulated.

MP-10 Optimus Prime (V2) is (arguably) more cartoon accurate than MP-01 Optimus (V1) Prime. The new MP-44 Optimus Prime (V3) is a lot more cartoon accurate than MP-10.

However people telling you to wait for a V2 Soundwave are idiots. The Mp-13 Soundwave mold sells out rapidly every single time it gets reissued. It is still fairly cartoon accurate. Takara has no need to make a new mold for this character and no V2 MP Soundwave has been announced or even hinted at. If you want an MP Soundwave and have the opportunity to buy one, go for it.

New molds for Masterpiece toys are relatively rare. Only 2 characters have gotten completely new molds, Optimus Prime (twice) and Megatron (once). Starscream and the Seekers have gotten an improved mold (MP-03 vs MP-11) but those two versions use about 80% identical parts between them.

Takara has been re-releasing some older molds with simplified "cartoon accurate" paint schemes, but if they did that for Soundwave the difference wouldn't be dramatic since Soundwave doesn't have a lot of painted detail anyway.

You mentioned you want the version with the red eyes, but IMO you should base your buying decision on whichever version includes the most cassettes. There is no real difference in price between the Takara version (red eyes) and the Hasbro version (yellow eyes) but the Hasbro version comes with 5 cassette minions instead of just Laserbeak. The cassettes sell for $25-30 per pair separately.

It is easy to change Hasbro Soundwave's eyes to red as the head is held together with a single screw, and the visor is a separate piece of plastic that you can take out and paint or cover with a small bit of red electrical tape which is what I did with my own Hasbro MP Soundwave.

Use this! Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape

It saved me already when I used them on 2 lighting cables and 2 magsafe chargers (I bought the clear version)

Theft is hard. For generally keeping stuff identifiable when you're climbing with a group, 3M makes "marking tape" that's stickier and more abrasion resistant than electrical tape. The marks on my stuff have held up great for a couple years now.

Legally, the orange tip is required for import and transport.

some orange electrical tape is an effective soloution if you're concerned.

It's what I use in places that require I have the orange tip.

Just use silicone self-fusing tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWRO9MY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or use liquid tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTW-400-Liquid-4-Ounce/dp/B002CC05EA/ref=pd_sim_328_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=413CdGG5uqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR82%2C160_&refRID=FY2E02TWCMGTEJPJYZ0K

or even Sugru (probably the best but most expensive option):
https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-SBLK3-Black/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465690927&sr=1-1&keywords=sugru

Yes, this is correct. If you search for 'liquid tape' or 'liquid electical tape' you'll get loads of results to choose from.

Link

thanks... just can't believe they'd sell an uninsulated 'hot' wire fuse, wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something... I'm going to wrap this around it... https://smile.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1536ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWRORX0

Go to your local fabric store, and buy some of that clear plastic old people use to make covers for the couch. It should only cost about $5-10 and then get someone to help you stretch and tape it over the opening.. if done right this makes a fantastic cheap replacement window. I’ve had to do this twice in my life, and if you can find 2” wide electrical tape, it will hold up for about a year before needing to be replaced.

You want to spend the time to stretch it just the slightest bit, so it has zero winkles.. if you do it right it will not flap in the wind, and will not drive you crazy with that drum beating sound at highway speeds.
clear material at fabric store

wide electrical tape

We demand updated photos of the repair done “right”.

I had leftover padding from my GPU box (that weird synthetic foam padding) that I cut into a desirable width that didn't effect my headset and taped it on with some electric tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWRO744/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


Any tape would probably work honestly and any type of padding, as long as it isn't too thick.

If it's just a box on the outside, it probably takes a standard triangular key, which you can easily buy online. You can probably also request that your electricity company come out and do a reading for you.

I used superglue on the corner of the IHS (on the OUTSIDE) to secure the PCB in place without adding any extra height. If you want to remove the IHS again just add a drop of acetone and it will dissolve the glue.

By the way, for the life of me I can't think why people keep using nail polish to protect the pcb components - has everyone forgotten that liquid electrical tape exists precisely for this sort of use?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulating-Tape-Liquid-Electrical-Black/dp/B000LNKIFS

Since you already have the stove body, I’d just get the appropriate thickness of ceramic fiber blanket/insulation off Amazon that’ll fit into the stove body. I found this after filter by>sort by>price: low to high.

It might be a 55 inch. I saw this mod on amazon that converts a regular 16:9 monitor into 2 ultra wides. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Electrical-Tape-4-Inch-66-Foot/dp/B001ULCB1O

Here is a low tech solution.

Scotch Electrical Tape, 3/4-Inch by 66-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ULCB1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uHLYCb4WHE575

Picked up my from Amazon.

Self healing port. Is this the type of tape you use?

I got you fam

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-03429NA-Electrical-4-Inch-66-Foot/dp/B001ULCB1O

Liquid tape tool coating

Duck Brand 299005 Professional Grade Electrical Tape, 3/4-Inch by 66 Feet, Single Roll, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOHK58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zYO4wb25K58FM

Cut out the damaged portion (pay attention to any wire markings or make your own if none are present) restrip the wire but stager the lengths​ so that the splices aren't all in one area. Install the splices then wrap in a self adhering silicone tape. When using the tape start 1 inch past where the insulation starts, wrap with 50% overlap until you reach 1 inch on to the insulation across the repaired area. The wrap should be tight and the first and last wrap sould be perpendicular to the repaired wire.

Edit: required supplies...

Splices with Crimper Tool

Silicone Tape

Quick Guide

This should fix the problem for you.

Failing that, yeah, my Intel 520 SSDs never threw errors. I can't speak for other SSDs though.

50 feet of speaker wire for $6.50.

Wire strippers $4.95

Electrical tape $2.57

You are now qualified to do damn near any low voltage electrical work in the world.