Reddit mentions: The best electrical tape

Hey, heads up on modern bulbs.

I started doing this about five years ago when not as many LEDs were used, my first with a Space Bucket is here from about four years ago, and some are now using a lot more LEDs in the bulbs. I did remount some of the LED modules for side lighting. I'm going to modify the article with a disclaimer.

The problem with more LEDs is that they are each ran in series, each LED needs 3-3.3 volts, so in some instances you are going to be exposing voltages that are going beyond safe levels by removing the cover. This should be isolated DC voltage, not AC line voltage, but keep in mind that with more than 15-20 LEDs that you can have a shock hazard.

Big Clive on YouTube has shown that they might not always be isolated from ground.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf6VSj6M-E


Shock hazards are most serious when it's a hand to hand shock since the current path can go through the heart and 50mA is when things can start becoming lethal.

Also I found that if the LEDs become disconnected from the power supply that the power supply voltage floated up to about 170 volts which in 120 volt AC nations is the peak voltage that you would get with a rectified capacitor. You have to be aware of this particularly when doing major modifications to the bulb.

It can be done safely but insulation is the key.

Also, don't use hot glue with power electronics. You can use 5 minute epoxy instead and give it 5 hours to cure.

edit spelling

/u/MrSparkleBud is using modules with 10 LEDs and his setup looks pretty safe. The hot glue is being used in areas where there would not be an expected heat build up. Adhesive cable tie mounts with tiny cable ties would still be a much better option as they provide really good strain relief (as an electrician I used a lot of these). Those now exposed power supplies still have line voltage on them, though, but it's obvious he has experience doing stuff like this from the very neat layout.

Make sure the line voltage splicing is soldered/taped and not just twisted with line voltage. Be sure to use Scotch Super 33+ tape if you can get it and not cheap, generic tape. Home Depot etc will have it for about $3 as well as the cable mount stuff.

Wire nuts are preferred for line voltage splicing.

You can certainly try to replace the emitter, but why try to "improve" something that is, to put it nicely, crappy? Plus, this isn't a trivial task.

If you need a good 5.75" round, try a JW Speaker like the other poster suggested. These are not as cool as many LED headlamps on the market, as they are 5000k, instead of 6000k. Oh, and JW Speaker put millions into developing these lamps instead of importing something from China.

https://www.amazon.com/JW-Speaker-8630-5-75-Headlight/dp/B015ZBZMOM '

If the JW Speakers are still too cool for your taste, a layer of Kapton tape should solve your issues. It leaves no adhesive residue if you want to take it off, and it will make your lamp appear to be a nice and warm, and you can layer the tape if you desire more warmth.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GCNAB6/?tag=2402507-20

I would take the driver assembly off of the frame (aka remove the thand use an epoxy specially formulated to bond plastic to glue the pieces together. I recommend JB PlasticWeld. You probably want to practice on something else before you try it on your cans, since it dries super quick and you only have one shot at this.

One that has fully cured (it says 1hr but definitely give it a full 24hours), I would wrap the cracked part of the frame tightly in a self-sealing tape. This is a rubber tape which resembles electrical tape but it has no 'adhesives'. What you do is stretch it out as you wrap it and then tightly overlay half of the width over your last pass each time. It will fuse to itself and should support it pretty well. Make sure you have enough clearance to put the layer of tape on and still reattach the driver assembly back on, because once it's one there it's not going to come off without a huge fight (which is the whole point). Again, practice beforehand on something else. I personally use the 3M brand all the time with good results, and it's super cheap. Link.

Good luck.

That's certainly one option. There are a TON of ways that you could do it. 2-way splitters would work too - that'll reduce the number of Commander Pros (CoPros) and make management easier. Depending on your fan configuration, you may also want to consider something like this Silverstone PWM Fan hub - it has its own power supply and allows you to control 8 fans as one. I have used one of these with a CoPro and it worked just fine.For lighting control - you'll need fan hubs; there's no way around that. The multipacks of the HDs come with a Fan Hub and a push-button controller - not a Lighting Node Pro (NoPro). That may drive you to get a second CoPro (for the additional lighting channels) or get some strips (they come with the NoPro). How you configure them is going to revolve around how you want the effects to work. For example - it sounds like you'll have 16 fans on the front, right? That's 3 fan hubs, minimum. But let's think about that ... each radiator will have 4 in front and 4 in back. That gives you 4 logical groups of 4 fans each. So that you can have a super-cool light show, you might well want to use 4 fan hubs with 4 fans each. Then, you can use a Fan Hub Splitter to sync the 2 hubs in the front with each other and the 2 hubs in the back with each other.

Like this: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjLE3OnL_l3klfRGb1xdGQAUsh7xsQ

That would give you 4 channels and control over 16 fans from a single Commander Pro. Now, that's just the front panel but on the 1000D, that's the real beastie.

Some other tips - I used a label maker to label each fan hub and NoPro in my system (I have 3 Fan Hubs and 2 NoPros). I find it super helpful. Second - I use colored electrical tape to mark the fans. I'll put one little piece on an unobtrusive part of the fan and then wrap each end (both the RGB and the fan speed) with a piece of the same color. Again, super-helpful.

EDIT: Here's a link to the multicolor electrical tape that I bought. For the number of fans that you'll have, you might use 2 colors for some of the fans.

You can buy a wire harness these days.

Race versions won't include provisions for turn signals, a stereo, or, a legit accessory position; that won't power the full pump and ignition system, especially important if you run a points style ignition (cause you're not only draining the battery a hair quicker, but now you risk burning up your points).

As for making your own, that's going to depend on your application.

Boats will need a power and a ground wire ran for all accessories. You can reduce the ground wire count by using a distribution block. Power will be run to a switch from the battery, to a fuse block, then to the device, then to the distribution block, back to the battery, completing the circuit. A large fuse, circuit breaker, or a cut off switch is recommended.

For a car, things get a little more complicated. You generally want a clutch/neutral safety cut off switch, reverse lights, brake lights, and more. It gets more complicated because the brakes are powered full time along with the lights, but your signal lights aren't. This can cause back feed issues when the lights are on and you signal or brake. Diodes are one option, multiple bulbs/dual filament bulbs are another. High draw circuits are controlled by relays so you can use smaller switches and less fuses. The circuits are usually completed to a chassis ground. Ensure all your ground connections are free from paint and rust.

The best place to get a good visual is your local library. Check out ohms law to get an idea on how thick of a wire you'll need so you don't burn your car down or run an extra 200 pounds of wire.

If you have the old harness, it's a lot easier. Take it out complete. Lay it down on a few 4*8 sheets of board. Unwrap all the conduit and connect the dots. Automotive connectors are usually unique, so they only fit that one plug on the car. The exception to that rules is for light bulbs, though the socket around the bulb might be different.

Good luck. LPT: Don't pull the electric tape to break it, cut it off clean without stretching it so it's less likely to unravel. Use high heat conduit under the hood to protect wires. Wire loom tape is ideal for wrapping multiple wires and is a way better option than electric tape.

> Nice. I am currently designing a F1 wheel replica, and have made wheels in the past. If this is something that you want to do more, I advise spending money on a 3D printer, the Creality Ender 3 is excellent for £150, which is about 160 euro. (This will also allow you to very accurately prototype. I also like the custom quickrelease, a mod I am just finishing on my T300.

Yeah, I'm definitively going to get a 3D-printer once I move out of my studio apartment and get some money. Thanks for the recommendation!

> Have you thought of covering the handles? You can use suede material, or various things like plastidip or sugru for a more rubbery finish.

Yeah, I'm probably going to try self-fusing rubber tape to cover the handles. Something like this but maybe narrower: https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1510ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=pd_cp_328_1?pd_rd_w=TjtWn&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=NHWY47ZSHGV250NA3EWS&pd_rd_r=232d9373-4cbd-11e9-a258-1dc4cbbc6958&pd_rd_wg=AQ5YE&pd_rd_i=B00HWROO7E&psc=1&refRID=NHWY47ZSHGV250NA3EWS

> Judging by your previous posts, you seem to be quite into this. Are you thinking of doing any other wheels?

Yeah, I probably will in the future. I'm quite happy with this now, but maybe I'll do a more advanced F1-style design one day. I've also thought of doing a button box for a D-shaped wheel and maybe designing and building my own pedals with a load cell brake, as I don't have a load cell brake currently.

> I also have a questions. Where is that fancy looking usb cable from? I am looking for one that screws into the wheel.

It's just a normal cheapo coiled USB-A to micro-USB cable from ebay, and I bought the 5-pin airplane DIN connector separately, so something like these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mobile-Phone-V8-Coiled-5-Pin-Adapter-Data-cable-Charger-Micro-Usb-For-Samsung/123576401188

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pin-Female-Male-Microphone-Connector-for-CB-Radio-Ham-Plug-/200913559171

5-pin connector wasn't necessary as USB 2.0 has only four, but I couldn't find four-pin connectors at the time so I went with five, and just used the pins 1-4 on that.

> Also, how did you fit a button onto to the top right front and back, I can never find space for them.

The button on the backside just about fits internally, and the internal part of it actually extends between the internal parts of the buttons on the front side. It was a little bit of an afterthought and I had to drill in to the 3D-printed cover to get the hole for the backside button. These buttons have a nut and a spring washer on them on the inside, but I had to not use the spring washer for the button that is behind the grip, as I couldn't get it to fit properly with that.

cRc standards? Star-K? There are a few, most of it is minor but you should know them and know what applies for you. Also, your community minhag may also dictate some of these things.

For example, some allow using the same dishwasher for meat/dairy since the water isn't yad soledes bo and there is an agent like lye (mentioned in S"A) in use.

>What basics do I need?

Depends on how often you eat various items, I very, very rarely eat meat so I have very few meat items for example.

But I have a large variety of parve items.

Overall you will want separate kli rishonim for meat/dairy/parve but not like 1:1:1, since you will cook different things in them. Also sponges and scrapers and serving utensils.

I would walk through a typical menu for you and see what works, like do you only have a dairy pot for vegetables or other sides and will that come to be a problem when you are making a meat meal?

Since I mainly eat parve I can duplicate a lot of my dairy since it isn't usually an issue. I have an instapot and I have 3 interior pots/liners/steam catchers for Shabbat meals.

You will also want knives for cutting that are parve/dairy/meat this is a fantastic meat knife and is really cheap and all the chef's I know recommend it. It's great for chopping/cutting.

You might also want to check out the books Kosher Kitchen which talks a lot about the details, but your community might be more lenient than that book in some places here and there.

But overall I'd go through and start with thinking about how you want to use your kitchen then apply the rules of kashrut and see if it is an issue.

Also, get some heat resistant color tape, so you can correctly label your items.

At some point, you might also look at if your stove/other items can be kashered for Pesach and if you need like a sperate burner just for Pesach (I have to do this since my place has a glass stove top)

Some "atypical" stuff:

Plastic Wrap That particular brand is my favorite. Very glossy, smooth, and tightens just the right amount (not too much, but enough).

Microfoam tape soft, stretchy, skin-safe tape. Perfect for mouths, eyes, and other openings :) Not strong enough to hold someone in a bind (like around the wrists) but good for other purposes.

Vinyl Tape Good for more secure bindings, but be careful stretching it too tight, can really shrink back up and squeeze someone too hard.

etc :)

Audio rattle is still there under Windows 10 and is because of Waves Maxx audio or whatever bundled bloatware comes with the realtek driver. Under any Linux distro, there is no rattle.

​

The other things you mentioned are not really software issues - they are quality control issues. No BIOS update is going to fix horrible thermal paste jobs, or bad heat removal engineering.

The 9570 should be viewed as a "some assembly required" sort of device. It has great hardware at a great price, but is poorly put together. However, on the upside, it is a profoundly easy system to disassemble (just get any old computer/cellphone repair kit with a T5 star bit). My advice is, if you buy it, do so before you even boot it the first time. There are dozens and dozens of posts on both Reddit and elsewhere showing how to fix the heat removal problems in the 9560/9570. My approach was:

​

• Repaste the CPU/GPU with Grizzly Cryonaut paste (do not use metal paste!!)
  
• Bridge the vrms with the heatsink using medium-grade conduction pads (cheap off amazon, I think it was 6 w/mk) where it is feasible to do so, stack 3 squares of them to just barely connect to the case where it is not easy to bridge to the heatsink.
  
• Use some electrical tape (I used this) to seal the fan exhaust areas (can be seen how to do it here - this is a design flaw which will never be fixed via software)
  
• Then grab the latest version of Throttlestop - I set my 9570 to CPU -120, Cache -120. Google around to learn how to set it to auto-run via Windows Task Scheduler. Super easy.
  
  ​
  
  After doing this my temps hang out around 37 idle, around 50-something under heavy load. Previously I was ready to send it back but didn't have the heart to because it was such a good set of hardware for the money. I was a little intimidated ripping it apart at first, but it was well worth it and quite simple. PM me if you want any further guidance. I have a lot of experience using Linux on this machine as well and it is thoroughly documented all over the internet, so if you want to go that route there's lots of help available too.

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

• The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  
• A decent multi-tool
  
• Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  
• Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  
• Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  
• A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  
• A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  
• Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  
• A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  
• Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  
• Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  
• Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  
• A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  
• Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  
• A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc
  
  Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.

Without pictures, I can't give super-specific advice, but I'll try to give some pointers:

First of all, a caution: now that you've pulled up part of a track, heating that track makes it more likely to de-laminate even further. So keep your heating as brief as possible.

Secondly, solder is not meant to be a mechanical connection. Anything you place should be securely taped down so it won't shake loose or put strain on the soldered connections. Similarly, do not attempt to force or strain parts that are soldered down - disconnect, adjust, reconnect.

Next - as for the potential short you have (exposed ground right next to your intended connection point) - we can fix that too.
Use insulating tape (preferably kapton tape - it can withstand high temperatures and you're unlikely to melt it with your iron). to cover up the exposed ground area. Now you can work in that area without fear of an accidental short.

Now you can use standard hookup wire to repair the connections that were once serviced by the now lifted track. In places where you solder down the hookup wire, use kapton tape to reinforce the connection and keep the trace from lifting further. Minimize heating of the broken traces. Once all connections are made and the wire has cooled, you can reinforce those points with something stronger, like electrical tape.

Finally, be sure to test your handiwork before inserting the batteries. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the battery positive and negative terminals. It should be non-zero (Above 1k sounds about right).

I hope this helps and good luck!

This is the perfect sailor gift for him:

Leatherman with one handed knife on the outside. I currently use the Sidekick

OR

Buck Redpoint Knife. This is the best knife I have found for sailing (if you don't want to carry a leatherman)

AND

Nylon belt sheath for Leatherman/Knife

AND

Double D ring belt, in nylon. This is the type of belt sailors wear. Pick whatever colors/pattern you like.

You can get this for $60 or so, and he will love it and use it all the time.

For a little added treat, get him some white electrical tape. 3M brand only, type 35. White only.

I have no idea, but even if the one you got has a 3.3V issue, it's not that hard to solve. Here is a nice album detailing the workaround. I would strongly recommend using kapton tape instead of the kind used in the album. It's the ideal tape for the job, since it's basically made to work with electronics. If you're willing to wait a few weeks, you can get a roll perfect for this situation for as little as one dollar. If you're not able to wait, it'll cost you about ten bucks.

I have and it did help. I realized I needed it after playing in a bar with a Pool Table light over us. The hum was unbearable. After I played the bar again with the bass shielded I didn't have any more problems.

Funny story, my guitarist got his hands on a Strat with 3 single coil pickups. The next time we played that bar, he plugged in and looked at me like like, WTF is that noise. I then explained to him why I did what I did. He wasn't impressed when I did it originally, but I certainly had his attention then:)

I used something like this

Just go slow and overlap each pass on the previous one. Also, WATCH YOUR FINGERS. Picture a paper cut but from a piece of copper.

Good luck.

I can probably hunt down pics if you're interested.

I put some plastic tape over the top of it and it mostly did the trick. I bought this from Target and used 4 layers of blue, with four layers of white stacked on top of each other and cut down to a small square. It didn't end up completely covering it, but it dulls the brightness quite a bit! That plus a huge H7 cooler pretty much get rid of it haha! Here's a photo of my results! I wish I had thought to take a picture before changing the cooler!!

Ask away, we learn “safely” by asking questions 😀

It’s hard to say, thermistors are very tricky to attach because you have to make sure it’s placed correctly and that the wires don’t short on each other or the block or the screw. They’re relatively inexpensive and good to have extras on hand. you’ll know fairly quickly if its not working just Test before reassembling, wear protection they get super hot super fast.

This is another advantage with the E3D hot end. They use a canister type thermistor which is 100x easier to mount. There are E3D knock offs that are way cheaper but I haven’t found any that use this thermistor.

Your heat cartridge looks perfectly fine..

I realize you might be asking about the kapton tape they used to cover the wires. I’m not sure it’s required, certainly doesn’t hurt 😀

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZFNB2I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521905792&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Ok, I've been trying to mod pair of t50rp myself so for past few days I was reading about modding t50rp and doing my research.


How well you mod t50rp depends on ability of modder and no 2 mods will be the same.



Anyway, short representation of mods:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgccbW6BXJY


As you can see it's very simple. However there are tons of mods and everyone of them is slightly different... So here is ultimate wiki giving you everything need about modding t50rp:


http://www.head-fi.org/a/fostex-t50rp-modification-summary-links-wiki


Now you might ask, can you fuck up modding t50rp?


Like with anything, yes but if you be careful and follow the most basic mods then there will be no harm done. All of the mods on the video are reversible.



Are there any cons? Well for one you will have to take t50rp like 20 times apart to see if you like any specific mods. Secondly the end product will be difficult to drive from your average laptop, so amp might be best if you want to get 100% of them. (The base goes away with several mods if you don't have the t50rp amped.)


My advice to you? Read everything about t50rp modding and do as it's on the video with few possible changes ( adjusting depending on your own tastes )

Do everything on the video but:

1. Cotton/amount of it or whether to include it at all. Most go with cotton, I would too.
   
   
   
2. Covering t50rp vent ports, some cover all of it others leave it open and some cover it half way through. I came to conclusion ( from what I 've read) that overing all of it except 2 lines is enough.
   
   
   
3. Transpore tape, person on the video used 2 layers, I would recommend 1.
   
   
   
4. Modelling clay, some people like punching holes in it with screw driver.
   
   
   
   Now summary of materials you may need:
   
   
   Acoustic foam paxmate/silverstone: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-PAX-2-Paxmate-PLUS-full/dp/B000OGX548
   
   
   Transpore tape: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Transpore-Tape-2-5cm-x-9-1m-Cheapest-on-Ebay-/331325272161?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Medical_Supplies_Disposables_ET&var=&hash=item4d24867061
   
   
   Earpads (Makes hugeee difference from stock ones): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads-Black-Velour/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1420724959&sr=8-18&keywords=earpads
   
   or
   
   
   http://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-Cushions-HPAEC840-Shure-Headphones/dp/B00A8MLJ50/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420724995&sr=8-2&keywords=shure+840
   
   
   Electrical tape: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Tape-Electrical-19mm-Black/dp/B004CSC4W8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420725009&sr=8-1&keywords=electrical+tape
   
   
   Non drying clay: not sure which one myself but you get the goal.
   
   
   100% Cotton balls: again, not sure which product exactly. Go to your local store for one.
   
   
   Some other links:
   
   http://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1lfnsi/fostex_t50rp_dbv3_full_build_diy_w_instructions/
   
   
   http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/diy-headphone-measurement-contest-winners

things i use, that you may already have/may not need depending on your application:

I hate to just say "upgraded grub screws" - but i cant recommend enough getting some hex-headed bolts from lowes/home depot. sadly ive forgotten the exact size, (i believe them to be m6x16mm but really want someone to confirm that. you'll need 2 of them, so i picked up 4 just in case). the included grub screws in the build plate locking mechanism are just so soft, and the allen keys just go through them like mush after 5-10 good torques.

painter's tool or similar - some kind of metal/hard plastic that will be able to get the prints off the build plate. the included spatula wont last long and I generally use it to mix resins that have separated in the vat. using it to also get prints off the build plate damages the plastic and increases risk of puncturing the FEP

lots of paper towels- wiping up drips, cleaning off the bottle drips, cleaning rim of the tank, cleaning off the spatula, placing print to dry after alcohol bath.

paint brushes- both medium and small. even with ultrasonic cleaner, ive seen some people say it doesnt get every nook and cranny and need to wipe down with a soft tip brush to get all excess resin off (i dont use an ultra sonic, but rather a "clean" and "dirty" ipa tubs to try and make sure as much of it comes off before curing)

x-acto knife - sometimes the micro-shears are just too wonky/large to clip a support without damaging the print.

sandpaper- 300 or so grit, not ultra needed, but depends on what you're doing. if printing minis i cant recommend some enough in order to get a smooth bottom on the base after all the supports come off

extra paint strainers - believe it comes with some, but go pick up a 50 pack at lowes, and wont need to worry about using the last of the 5 i think they give you for free

extra, opaque tupperware/jars/containers with wide top. i use old sour cream containers. just to pour off and strain resin into (far easier than trying to get it back into the bottle). can even use some as a final "last wash" ipa bath after ultrasonic cleaner.

random extra to consider: 1 mil kapton tape to seal the LCD and prevent spills from dripping down into the unit. ( https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kapton+tape+1+mil&qid=1574726246&sr=8-3 ) some might call it superfluous, but id rather not have my fep puncture then come to find resin all over the motherboard

- just a side note if doing the ultrasonic, put water in the actual tub, and put ipa in a ziplock bag, and put your print in the ziplock bag and seal it, then put the ziplock bag in the water. Wont have any clean out the ultrasonic tub, reduce IPA required to operate. reduce smell. reduce IPA vapors.

I wouldn't use electrical tape. Even good quality electrical tape won't hold up over time. pwd666 had a good recommendation with the heat shrink tubing. That's your best bet.

If you can't get that to work, I use this stuff everywhere:

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Fusing-Silicone-Weatherproof-Electrical-Emergency/dp/B07MZK3XSD/ref=asc_df_B07MZK3XSD/

It's not really tape. It's more like a silicone ribbon that fuses to itself. You have to apply it carefully (it tries to stick to itself), but once it is in place, it is like a single tube of silicone. Water-tightness isn't guaranteed, because water can get between the silicone and the wire sheath, but if you go out 2" or so on either side of the hole, you should be good.

Kapton tape
should work as well, if you happen to have some, but you might need to wrap it a few times, it's pretty thin. Might be a bit more permanent as well. I don't have shrink-wrap on hand, so I just use the tape.

Yes, both filaments I've used worked perfectly without any warping or detaching. I've successfully used Hatchbox ABS and Taulman T-Glase PETT successfully. I use Acetone to clean off the Kapton tape before each print and the prints pop off with a little prodding from the plastic spatula included with the printer.

The elephant model that comes on the SD car printed fine without a brim but everything I've sliced myself has been with a brim.

This is the Kapton tape that I use. I ordered it for my Solidoodle Press so it's obviously too big but easily cut down. They sell a 5" version better suited for the Mini. It will probably last longer than the printer.

I had a shelving unit that had built in fluorescent tubes. Now, granted it is an accent shelf, and each shelf was approximately 20" x 18". The fluorescent tubes were on the 20" sides, and there was no lighting on the 18" sides. I used Hue Gen 2 light strips all the way around on all three shelves, and the light (without all the CRI calculations) passed the "wife test". No discernible difference at full power detected. (SCORE!).

I also didn't care for the dots of each LED, so I put the Hue lightstrips into these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are super easy to cut with a handsaw, easy to install, and nicely diffuse the LED light and protect the strips.

Where I needed a non-lit extension (such as between each shelf), I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally whenever there was a junction, I used white electrical tape to make sure the two strips stayed affixed. Just a small bit to wrap around the joint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FP8HSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed a lightning suppressor on my ham antenna at home. It won't survive a direct hit but it will help prevent equipment damage from nearby strikes. Waterproofed the shit out of it with some Mastic tape and Super 33+. Of course if I'm home during a storm I will disconnect and lower the antenna. We don't have many thunderstorms here anyway, but it's good to be prepared.

Organized some of the ham gear into a waterproof hard case. Contains two handheld radios, one mobile/base radio, and a DBJ-2 roll-up antenna, along with related accessories.

Inventoried the emergency supplies in my car, and thought of a few things I'd like to add. I had a kit of spare fuses but they were the wrong size! Lesson learned, always check stuff like that.

Working on my physical and mental health. I've been reading about meditation. It's something you can do anywhere, for free, that has all kinds of benefits to well-being. Now I need to find a way to practice consistently every day.

I won't lie... Cheap Amazon Prime accessible tape.
The two names are as follows;

2mm Clear Double Sided Strong Adhesive Acrylic Tape For Phone LCD Screen Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4Z10?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Eco-Fused Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Tape - also including 1 Pair of Tweezers / Eco-Fused Microfiber Cleaning Cloth (black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I know they're cheap, but how much should I spend/what should I search for when I purchase? Computers are my hobby, but I work in kitchens and bake bread full time... Soooo, I'm pretty good with my hands. Application is not the issue here.

Try rubber splicing tape. It'll stick to itself but not anything else. Makes for good handle grips and it's easy to clean if it gets dirty. Just rinse it off and it's all good.

Hey! No problem

1. yes I did all the SMD parts at once, it's much easier to do them all at once.
   
   
2. I did not do any cleaning of the boards, I recommend using solderpaste with flux mixed in (MG 4860P is best in my opinion).
   
   
3. I was very careful when moving from the workbench to the kitchen because I was worried about this. Once the board is on the pan (make sure it's even) there's not much sliding. You'll notice in my video I had to nudge the ARM IC in position, because it had slid off it's pads slightly.
   
   Honestly, using hot air for soldering is very difficult. It's great for desoldering however.
   
   
4. Three of my ICs had shorts which I fixed with an iron afterwards, not too bad. If you're using a hot air gun, you should use some kapton to hold down the IC while you're working on it.
   
   
5. I used a laser thermometer to keep track of my surface temperature, and I placed the board at around 250F to mimic a reflow profile, and waited until all pads had melted before removing from heat and letting cool slowly. You have to watch out for hot spots though, so I moved the board around a little.
   
   
6. Yes - laser thermometer
   
   
7. Visible inspection, check for shorts and check for dry pads (I had a few).
   
   
8. Just the once that look iffy
   
   
9. Yes
   
   
   I did this method as a test, all my previous builds were just done with the fine tip iron, and I think I'll go back to the iron for next time. The time spent is about the same, so there's no real savings there, but it's trickier. Maybe if I were doing 3 or 4 at a time I would do this process again. Actually, If I were doing more, I might just order a film stencil and knock these out in 30 minutes.
   

Here's the tape I was referring to. It's pretty good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_p2pKybHH6A56G

As I mentioned, heat shrink looks better but this stuff is excellent for when you can't get heat shrink over a component.

I use these boxes with color identity appropriate
Electric Tape which fit PERFECTLY (like it was designed intentionally) in this box from Lowe's

Well, I don't think there are really that many specialized tools the average user would need. I guess if you want to do some minor modifications or sleeve your psu, you would really benefit from some specialty tools. Generally speaking, I think nearly everyone would benefit from:

• Assorted Cable Ties, 200-Piece - $5.48
  
  
• Compressed Gas Duster, 10oz Can, 2/Pack - $3.62
  
  
• Microfiber Cleaning Cloths - $6.50
  
  total: $15.60
  
  It goes without saying that you should also have a Phillips screwdriver, but who doesn't have one of those around anyway? Of course, there are some extras you might want if you're messing with your psu cables (like if you're sleeving them or whatever), installed and reinstalling coolers, I don't know. It is all stuff I've used with my PC at one time or another.
  
  
• Mini Cree Led Flashlight - $3.90
  
  
• mod/smart Full Pin Removal Tool Kit - $9.89
  
  
• Wire Stripper/Cutter - $6.58
  
  
• Electrical Tape - $4.42
  
  
• Thermal Compound Paste 3.5g - $8.22
  
  total: $48.61
  
  I don't know why you'd really want that ultra-mega-deluxe $49 kit I put together, unless you're certain you will be modding your pc. If you want to be all hardcore you could get a soldering iron just for your pc, but I wouldn't recommend doing that unless you already have experience. Seriously though, everyone should get some cable ties and compressed air.

Awesome, thank you for the recommendations (there goes the money I partitioned for dominators, ha)!

I ordered:

FrSky Taranis X9D plus

D4R-II

Spare motors + ESC

X-treme tape

The magnet wire wrapped around a typical toroid is enameled. This enamel is "just enough" insulation for the job it does. Now, assuming the tape didn't pull off any of the enamel, you still need that outer layer to protect the somewhat fragile enamel. Enamel insulation tends to get brittle when the transformer is used, due to heat. Kapton tape is good for this, and there are a lot of other good options.

Just don't use "electrical tape". That stuff will melt right off.

I'm not even joking, a video is literally TOO MUCH. One screen shot is all you need. I misspoke when I said you technically only need to do 2 and 3, you technically only need to do pin 3 as shown in this image. But 1 and 2 are also unused and it's easier to stick a slightly larger piece over all 3. Then I just plugged in the sata cord and it was fine. 2 for 2, zero issues.

https://www.servethehome.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Easystore-WD-10TB-USB-Desktop-Backup-Pin-Mod.jpg

I used this tape, if you could find it cheaper i say go for it.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6

I guess the one extra piece of advice I could give is make sure you don't cover any of pin 4. It was really easy. And it's temporary. If you plug it in and something was messed up, you won't hurt it. You could take the tape off and try again. If the pin is uncovered it just won't show in your bios.

Edit: full shucking guide including that screen shot:

https://www.servethehome.com/wd-wd100emaz-easystore-10tb-external-backup-drive-review/

> an be a pain sometimes.

Yes, its silicone tape. I don't have a heat gun, so this is next best thing. I also like that it is more forgiving in a crash than a zip tie.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWROKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice write up. But I have a few suggestions.

Instead of electrical tape you should use actual loom tape next time, the electrical tape will start to degrade over time.
http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Black-High-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y

Generally using a relay, like in the diagram linked below will increase your light output and make your setup safer as the load isn't being carried by the switch.
http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/reading/relay-diagram.gif

Also, you should look into this type of connector for the battery end. You can slip it on under the nut on the battery connector and then use the screw to secure the power wire for your lights.
http://www.amazon.com/Panduit-ML8-CY-Barrel-Straight-Tongue/dp/B00B5P3KT2/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1414773726&sr=8-49&keywords=post+and+tap+connector

I'm pretty sure kapton tape is what spank and maybe a few other rim makers are selling as tubeless tape. It is working well for me so far.

If you like the look and the properties of this stuff, you can get an almost identical product from your local hardware store. I'm really happy with the durability of mine and that single cheap roll can do a couple bikes

I try to recommend this whenever I see a keezer build since it has helped me so much. For what it's worth, if you have a hard time remembering which keg goes to which regulator and faucet, you can use multi colored electrical tape to color code things.

Also, nice setup. I really dig the sign and the tap handles too.

I used this and used scissors to make it thinner. It's not conductive on the adhesive side hence the solder joints.

On my Jeep I did all the traces, tested everything, then put a thick layer of glue over it to act like an insulator/laminate. Otherwise I bet the adhesive would peel pretty quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009KB86BU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462757506&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=copper+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=41cYsWETcRL&ref=plSrch

Not every day I find out an old post helped someone. Guess I wasn't the only one who thought this was easiest power supply to get. If it helps you further, this Kapton tape is the exact size of the 3 pins and was very easy to apply. I've been using it like this with no problems since the summer

Colored electrical tape is easy, usually comes in multicolored packs, like this

Silicone Self-fusing Tape

Totally awesome for multiple purposes

This stuff or something similar. works perfectly.

We bought this and it has stayed flawlessly on the bottles for 5 months and counting! I highly recommend it.

Eta, Sharpie will come off very quickly (which I found counterintuitive)!

Yep. I bought a super narrow roll. I only had to cut it for length and not width with this linked roll.

Tricky question since it depends on a few factors. Since this is for the Mini, I would go with 130mm x 130mm via Amazon;

https://www.amazon.com/130mm-5-125-Borosilicate-Polished-Printer/dp/B01LX3CS6Y/

I would also recommend the following clips to hold the glass down on the sides;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN98F0/

Coat the glass with Kapton tape, and you should be all set;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXN0IXS/

Have I spent all your allowance yet? ;-)

Though you're right, it's still not the right stuff to use. You want Wire loom Cloth Tape. It's the shit they use from the factory on wire harnesses.

https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y

Search for silicone tape on Amazon. Numbers of makers and sellers. Here's one example also come in clear and other colors.

I wanted to know what tape you use. Originally I bought this tape

because it's rubber, but it was too thick to fit around the motors and put the motor cover back on.

Could you link me what brand you use to add noise reduction to your wheels. That's my biggest issue.

Hello there! I use lifting blocks when I jump, and what I have found works is foam pipe lagging , taped up really tight into a saussage with electrical tape. Then you want to tape them to your thighs with non-elasticated sports tape. (I use the 5cm stuff)

Position blocks, and with your knee straight tape it on around your thigh. 3 times around usually does it for me. I then like to secure it with electrical tape. I position them so the blocks are just below my compression shorts.

Kapton Tape - $13

Orange Seal 8oz - $14

Valve Stems - $15


MBR's Instructional Video

Additionally, you can change out kapton tape for something like gorilla tape for less money.

I agree, build you own kit. Below is my take. Know that some of those tools are not for every day use in networking, but who can resist getting more tools? Also, if you get all of these I realize it will be over $200. So, just use this list as a guide not a definitive list.

BAGS

• 5.11 Rush 24 Pack (Should fit all tools): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N1G2WY
  
  
• 5.11 Tactical Small Kit tool Bag (for the essentials):
  
  • http://www.511tactical.com/small-kit-tool-bag.html
    
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A66GDI
    
    
• 5.11 Tactical Shell pouch # x2 in 2 different colors:
  
  • http://www.511tactical.com/shotgun-ammo-pouch-vtac.html
    
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PTSUUO
    
  • one pouch for rj45 connectors
    
  • one pouch for cage nuts
    
    ETHERNET TOOLS
    
    
• Punch down tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D
  
• Crimper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002D3B97U
  
• Network Cable Tester: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW
  
• Cage Nut Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DL09HPU
  
• Wire Stripper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJWUEMQ
  
• Ethernet cable stripping tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00788LVZA
  
• Coax and Data Cable Cutter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S5VE0Y
  
  SCREWDRIVERS
  
  
• Steelex D2023 Magnetic Tip Screwdriver Bit Set 30-piece: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD6T9
  
• Klein 32561 Std. Stubby Screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FQDHHC
  
• 15 in 1 Screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VJY99Y
  
• Philips Head Screw Driver with magnetic tip #3: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ISYR6K
  
• iFixit Precision Screw driver 54bit set: http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/54-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-022
  
  PLIERS and WRENCHES
  
  
• Needle Nose Pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNNW1M
  
• RoboGrip 7" Wrench Pliers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEPAFQ
  
• Tekton 26-pc Long Arm Ball Hex Key Wrench Set (inch/metric): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF4W
  
• Tekton Star Key Set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5THF9M
  
• Craftsman Evolv 3 pc. Adjustable Wrench Set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056BJFOK
  
• Tekton Combination Wrench Set (Inch/metric): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ159G
  
  POWER
  
  
• 1.8" LCD 20+4-pin Power Supply Tester w/8/6/4-pin Connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MKCALY
  
  MISC
  
  
• CRKT 3 inch folding Knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017UV9W0
  
  
  SUPPLIES
  
  
• Pack of 100 RJ45 connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BS92DCK
  
• 75ft Role of velcro: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069FJR2M
  
• Electric Tape: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WCCL
  

Caulk is not a good solution for this. Use self-amalgamating tape like 3M TemFlex. You stretch it and wrap it around the pipe and the joint, and it bonds to itself and turns into a waterproof shield similar to heat shrink tubing. You have to cut it away to remove it, but it has no adhesive so it won't leave a mess. I use this to protect antenna and RF cable connections, it lasts forever and completely protects from water and weather.

If you're concerned about shorting something out, you can spray some conformal coating on any contact areas. Another option would be to use kapton tape on the bottom of the hot wheels or where ever you position it. If it's not making direct contact with any components, you should be fine, however, those cars can roll very easily. For this reason, I'd look at maybe using a light adhesive or something to hold them in place. Common sense warning, don't use adhesive on any components.

Link to conformal coating

Link to kapton tape

Self-fusing tape is really good for this as well. Just a quick snip or two with the scissors and you've got access to the ESC.. No residue at all, not to mention it insulates electrical connections, is waterproof and works from -60F to like +500F or something ridiculous.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1510ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWROO7E

I think it's adhered with a double sided tape like this

2mm Clear Double Sided Strong Adhesive Acrylic Tape For Phone LCD Screen Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4Z10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IfqWAb3FXRBGH

Shouldn't be tough to the repair shop to fix.

If you want to try yourself you could blast the screen with a little heat (heat gun or hair dryer) and then hold the screen down until it cools down (wrap it in a towel after heating it up so you don't burn yourself). Don't heat it up too much or you could damage the LCD.

Edit: added diy option

X-Treme Tape TPE-XR1510ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1.5" x 10', Rectangular, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hLTzDbDAW6STJ

This stuff shrink wraps itself, but is non adhesive do no mess like electrical tape. The secret to a nice looking build is to color coordinate AKA not have a bundle of multi colored wires hanging out on the front side of the Mobo.

Another potential easier option is silicone fuse tape - it permanently adheres to itself, but doesn't stick to anything else.

I'm just looking on Amazon, I see 3M Rubber Splicing Tape as Temflex 2155.

3M Rubber Splicing Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CGVEXS

Maybe Temflex 1300 is more traditional (sticky) electrical tape.

Silicon tape wrapped around the exposed wire fixed it for me. So it's no longer shorting out.

X-Treme Tape TPE-XR1510ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1.5" x 10', Rectangular, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eADyDbNEZJTB2

It has to have a good thermo, so it turns out the board wasn't the problem. In my case I tightened it down and it cracked the protective coating and shorted it out. The tape fixed it

Yeah I’ll have to wait till I get home tonight, but it’s this kind of tape
https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1510ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_1/137-3978350-5422325?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HWROO7E&pd_rd_r=ce7504d5-3528-11e9-b839-4be84d534962&pd_rd_w=kXX6q&pd_rd_wg=XxJmE&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=8YKZ9VJPE5NHYECWX4WY&psc=1&refRID=8YKZ9VJPE5NHYECWX4WY

To avoid kinks that bad in the future you may want to try this , and this is what I used to cover the ends of sleeving. I found a few reddit posts and it seemed to work well for people. However, others used heat shrink tubing not silicone tape like I did. The tape has held up well for a few weeks now, and when I see any sort of twisting it’s really easy to undo as with the sleeving the cable just sort of pushes itself around instead of gathering kinks.

Here you go: http://smile.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XZLCLR-Silicone-Triangular/dp/B00HWROKAK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

At the show, the vendor had different colors. Amazon has a few different colors, but this one was the cheapest.

Tesa tape if you want it to look OEM.

white scotch electrical tape

don't bother with "stick tape", its just electrical tape but more expensive

This is what I use for wrapping ice tools, if you want a cheap fix.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-2155-Rubber-Splicing-Tape/dp/B001CGVEXS

Some people use PlastiDip which is more durable but not as grippy.

I haven't bothered with either on my mountaineering axe because I mostly hold it by the pick anyway.

Was it this? Or am I thinking of something else?

https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-yds/dp/B006ZFNB2I

https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XZLBRD-Silicone-Triangular/dp/B01EG7MBJU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1466384298&sr=8-13&keywords=silicone+tape

or

https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1510ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466384298&sr=8-3&keywords=silicone+tape


Imgur

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Electrical-75-Inch-66-Foot-007-Inch/dp/B000FP8HSM/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ET8NTXDF31WFTEHP445

Scrape off all old adhesive and use 2mm redtape all around.

I would use this.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-2155-Rubber-Splicing-Tape/dp/B001CGVEXS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480268004&sr=8-4&keywords=self+amalgamating+tape

> Can I get a sticker to put over the Ubuntu logo on my S76 laptop keyboard?

Yes.

white electrical tape

Oh here is something: http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Black-High-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y

White electrical tape

Its called silicone tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Fusing-Silicone-Weatherproof-Electrical-Emergency/dp/B07MZK3XSD

I've posted this a number of times, and will continue to do so until the Gospel has been spread. Copper tape + Thumbies = 4 buttons, one for each touch quadrant.


http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Conductive-Adhesive-Width-Length/dp/B009KB86BU

http://www.amazon.com/Psyclone-Thumbies-Button-Gaming-Controls/dp/B004MEZ3B6/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1420218254&sr=1-1&keywords=thumbies

Use “self adhearing silicone tape” durable and sticks only to itself. Revelate Designs used to sell it for this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bs2bBbCHPHKVN

Here is the mobile version of your link

What I do is first wrap the tubing where my hose clamp will go with this self fusing tape https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWROKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Then put the clamp over that.

No need to buy a whole new charger. Just use some electrical tape like this to block the light. It’s been a lifesaver for me in the night as any small amount of light drives me crazy when trying to sleep.

Use electrical tape but don't use the cheap stuff, it will leave a residue and get melty and move around in the heat. If you wanna be fancy, buy a roll of self amalgamating tape. It's cheap and I use it for all sorts of random stuff around the house now that I have it.

It looks like only the solder mask was damaged, which is much more susceptible to abrasion than the underlying copper. A simple square of Kapton tape applied directly to the board to keep the copper from oxidizing would likely constitute a full repair. The only other action that might be needed would be to smooth out any rough edges on the post.

Sorry about that. I didn’t know they made various kinds. Here’s an Amazon link where I got mine:

Tesa Wire Loom Tape

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FXN0IXS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1418430310&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I bought this. My only complaint is that it's really difficult to get off the roll. I need to get a dispenser. But I only change it when it rips. I clean it with rubbing alcohol between prints. Applying it is easy if you mix a little soap with alcohol and spray it on the bed first. No bubbles at all

The is what I recently ordered and used to block pins.

I used a box cutter to slice a small strip and side it into place. It can be a little tricky at first, but it only takes a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541983263&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kapton+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=51B2bKUSrQL&ref=plSrch

For wiring harnesses Im about to blow your mind:

Tesa Tape, use what the OEM's use.... No Brainer: http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Black-High-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414157204&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape

Solder and Heat shrink for connections of course.

Have you thought about putting up some white electrical tape to cover up the loose wire?

Too bad, but there's always next year. Smile!

This tape is under $5.

Probably not.

If you're going to shuck them to use internally (duh right, but I have some of mine in my own 4-bay enclosure and they power on fine) then buy a roll of this to tape the pin, don't do any weird bullshit like splicing cables getting molex adapters whatever, this is easiest

I actually did a ton or research and took some precautions that I saw no one mention; i.e. covering the area surrounding the CPU die in Kapton tape to prevent any spilled metal from causing a short. It just slipped my mind in the end that the metal block around the cpu wasn't also copper like the heat pipes which look fine Imgur.