Reddit mentions: The best fuel additives

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

Thing 2: Your combustion system sounds like it could probably be cleaned.

To grossly oversimplify internal combustion engines, here’s a quick rundown of how they work: Gas gets spritzed into the combustion chamber (this is the part with cylinders and pistons) while fresh, outside air gets sucked in and filtered (this is the part they mean when they say intake manifold). The fuel spritz is controlled by the aptly-named fuel injection and increases when you put your foot down on the pedal. At the same time, the amount of air that comes in is controlled by the throttle body assembly, which opens and closes based on your acceleration. More pedal = more gas and more air. The air and the gas combine and the spark plug fires, igniting the mixture. Tiny explosion forces the piston upward in the cylinder with force, which moves crankshaft, which in turn moves all the other things and ta-daaa! You can go places in your car! More pedal, more gas, more air, more tiny booms, you go zoom! Very fun.

The problem is that modern gas isn’t 100% pure, and it leaves a residue when it ignites. It’s a black carbon deposit that’s almost identical to the soot that collects on the side of a glass candle except there’s way more of it, it’s way stickier and it’s made from the restless ghosts of all those dead dinosaurs you burn up every day to get to work. This residue probably has a real name but I’ve only ever heard it called carb, as in, “the engine is all carbed up so run a bottle of gum-out through it.”

What happens when this shit gets left behind is that it collects on your throttle body plate, which then can get stuck and not open and close appropriately. It can also collect on the little zappy ends of your spark plugs, which means they don’t fire as efficiently. Now without the right air/gas mix, and without the right booms, you no go zoom. And then, your engine is less efficient at burning the fuel in the first place, which means more uncombusted sediment and shit gets left behind and the whole thing becomes exponentially worse. The main sign of all of this is starting your car cold and, while still in park, seeing if your RPM needle bounces as the engine lopes, like Womp...Womp...Womp. If you feel like you need to punch the gas a little to keep it from stalling, that’s a sure sign.

But it doesn’t have to be that bad to need cleaning, and I generally believe that every car that’s not new could use it. Your fuel efficiency will improve and the smell your boyfriend smelled should go away. Shops call this service a fuel system clean, pre-combustion service or an ignition clean, but basically it’s any service that cleans your throttle body, combustion chamber, mass air flow and O2 sensors. You can have it done, or you can run several treatments through your gas tank to approximate this. I like this one but you can get Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil at any auto parts store, too. Cleaningvthe fuel injectors and valves that way and changing out your spark plugs should improve things a bit.

Pro tip: if you have any parts replaced, always have them show you the old part and the new one after it’s installed, if it’s visible. This is an easy way to discourage the most blatant fraudulent deception (charging for new parts not installed), though some shops will find other ways. If they tell you something else is wrong, make them show you. Ask to see the OBD codes. In my experience (being a woman) this causes no problems when you feign curiosity, like “ooh, can I see what that looks like?”

Oh, and, one more thing. If you have the belt/tensioner done and your AC doesn’t immediately blow cold again, have them check the relay/fuse. There’s a fuse box under the hood (in addition to the one by your steering wheel) with a fuse that controls the compressor; if it tried to kick in but your belt wasn’t running it, it could have blown that fuse. It’s a bit frustrating at first when you think you did all you could to fix it but it still doesn’t work and then you remember the fuse. Went through that on my husband’s car.

I know it’s a lot of information but I hope you feel better prepared. The not knowing what’s wrong or what could go wrong with my car is really anxiety-inducing for me, so I hope I’ve helped clear some of that for you.

Let me know how it goes, please!

> Full winterization checklist: - bike on stands, wheels off ground - treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too) - change oil before storage - change coolant before storage - wash, wax and detail before storage - clean and lube chain (if so equipped)


This is hundreds of dollars worth of shit that plenty of people don't have to spare, so I'm gonna brake it down a bit.


> bike on stands, wheels off ground

If you don't own stands, this could cost $400 or more(cause you have to buy them). The point in doing this is to prevent flat spots in your tires, so if you've got old tires you don't give a shit about, just let it sit and change them next season. If you do give a shit about your tires but don't want to buy stands, just roll the bike around every week or so to change where it's stilling on the tires.

> treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too)

This is a big one that really shouldn't be neglected. You really, REALLY don't want to have to change an injector because a clump of old fuel clogged it. Fuel stabilizer is relatively cheap at $5 for 4 ounces so order some and get it into the bike before putting her away (let it run through the engine too, 1/8-1/4th of the full tank).

> change oil before storage


I take the opposite approach, changing the oil after storage. For the layman, changing your oil has little to do with lubrication. Oil is a lubricant by it's molecular structure, the actual oil itself never stops being a lubricant.


However, there are a ton of additives in oil to keep your engine clean. Anti-mosture, cleaning detergents, anti-foam, etc, etc. These break down over time and use(3 month, 3000 miles) and need to be replaced. And when they break down, they get in the way of your oil(basically filling it with crap so it doesn't lubricate as cleanly as new oil).


> change coolant before storage

IMHO no point in doing this as long as you stay up to date on your coolant. Does it look bad? Change it. Does it look good? Leave it. Just make sure you look it over when pulling her out next year.


> wash, wax and detail before storage

Wax isn't going to protect your paint from cold temps. If you have a cover, put it over the bike to keep it from getting covered in dust.


> clean and lube chain (if so equipped)

Definitely a good idea, 3 months is plenty of time for a change to get some heavy rust on it. If you're super lazy, at least spray it down with some lube(Not WD-40!) before putting it away.

Stabil.

Buy some. Go to WalMart or wherever you buy oil and whatnot. They will have it. When you put fuel in your bike put some stabil in as well. They have terms for how much is appropriate, I don't know them. I add a solid dollop or 6 when I fill up. Been doing it for 10 years, so far so good. Stabil keeps your gas from going stale. Stale gas is bad. Bike no run good. Adding to little may not get the job done. Add too much and all is well. It's cheap stuff. A bottle lasts me a year or two.

>

Seriously consider heated gear. It's awesome.

>Any recommendations? my battery is already set up

The word on the street is that Gerbings makes the best stuff, very nice warranty as well. My electrics are FirstGear. Mostly because they were cheaper. 5-6 years of use thus far and no trouble from the gear.

You need a controller. Google it. On high - which is what electrics default too - you'll cook. IMO a jacket/gloves are the way to start. It's what I have been riding in for years now in PA. Pants/etc are all well and good.. but I don't seem to need them much. I may just be tough as nails ; )

Heated grips will do an awful lot and I have ridden through several winters with just grips and a jacket. Heated gloves are a sign from god that he loves us all and wants us to die on two wheels.

Good luck!

LifeStraw will expand your water resources.

Fuel. ~30 gal of gasoline in Gerry cans with stabilizer will last a couple of years. Also, TruFuel will keep your soon-to-be-purchased generator(s) ready to go after long-term storage. Don't forget the oil.

Edit: the LifeStraws go on sale occasionally for like ~$15 on Amazon so keep your eyes open for them.

QT on Lawrenceville Hwy at Cooledge normally has several Ethanol free pumps. (I use it for all my lawn equipment.)

Now, as for the Tetraethyl lead additive, you'll need a time machine or a can of Motor Medic lead substitute. https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Medic-Gunk-M5012-Substitute/dp/B002008NWA

I'm guessing it's this stuff.

And no, it's not going to improve your gas mileage. It might help clean carbon deposits out of your fuel system and help your car run slightly more efficiently, but any MPG gains will be negligible. You're not going to go from 18 MPG to 25 MPG just by putting some of this in your tank.

I always buy the cheapest gas available, but use Lucas Fuel Additive. It boosts my mileage a couple of miles per gallon and keeps the injectors clean & the upper cylinder lubricated.

Fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

I've saved gasoline 2-3 years without STABIL, I'd be hard pressed to tell you whether or not this stuff is really required. But it is not real expensive so to me it is worth it.

What you really have to do to save gas is have a set of cans and rotate through them so you always use the oldest gas first.

It doesn't answer your question, but if I were you I'd order some fuel stabilizer online. Fill up the tank to the tip-top and put that in.

Fuel stabilizer will keep your gas "fresh" for up to 2 years, so you should make it through a few months just fine. Just make sure to top off your tank and re-add the appropriate amount of stabilizer after a ride.

I think you can order Trufuel. It's in 32oz. Cans and I just buy it at home depot though lowes carries it as well. I guess amazon sells it also! http://www.amazon.com/TruFuel-4-Cycle-Ethanol-Free-Outdoor-Equipment/dp/B009QT1KLO (pack of 6)it's ethanol-free 92 octane gasoline basically. It's a little more spendy than mixing your own gas, but I don't have to do anything to my mower during the winter or worry about lines getting gummed up. Last winter I ran the mower until there was no trufuel left. Started first pull this spring. I also use the 2-cycle trufuel in my weedeater. Maintenance wise you should be set for a bit with a new mower, I think it says in the manual to change the oil after first 20 hours use or so. Just change the oil per the schedule and if your in a super dusty place keep an eye on the filter.

If you regularly use brand name fuel like Chevron or Exxon, you can skip the injector cleaning well past 30k miles. If you regularly use the absolute cheapest gas you can find, you may way to use BG 44K on occasion. Probably works 90% as well as the dealer service at 15% the cost. https://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

Probably wouldn't be a horrible idea to throw a bottle of fuel stabilizer in the tank as well. When you go to buy the battery just ask where the fuel stabilizer is. I personally use http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I Edit- you dont need the 32oz like 4-8oz should be enough

You can buy scented fuel additive in a variety of fragrances. I wouldn’t recommend using it but we tried this on a old engine and yes it works. The smell lingers for ages even after adding new fuel without the additive.

Allstar ALL78126 Grape Fuel Fragrance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZQS28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hWZQCbVPGGMDS

I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7

Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!

Oh no I knew it was you because it flags me when you post my username. I just thought it was funny someone thought what I said was cool enough to bear repeating.

Side note I personally have done all the services that can be done to a car to my own car (2010 Equinox with now roughly 80,000 miles on it) just because I wanted to know if they actually had any benefit. After induction cleaning (I did it at Ford with their method) I noticed that my gas mileage actually went down for about two full tanks of gas but when it rebounded I gained about two miles per gallon highway. (I lived about 20 minutes by highway from work so 90% of my driving was on the interstate). This data was confirmed by a fellow tech who also did his Nissan Altima at the same time. We both complained about it to each other and found it amusing that we had the same result.

Some dealerships swear by a company/product called BG who makes this stuff. The ones we used at the dealership actually came with a can of CF5 instead of 44k as the 44k is a stronger chemical for fuel cleaning and our BG rep said to use it for induction/fuel cleaning and the CF5 was for regular maintenance use but honestly both methods work. If you decide you want to use this stuff this funnel is made to fit the cans and makes pouring the 44k into the gas tank way easier. Also that price for them as a set is what we charged at the dealer which after tax came out to roughly 42 bucks. Buying them on Amazon individually seems to cost way more for some reason.

Point of me telling you this is that what we did was use that red can (EPR) BEFORE we changed your oil and ran at idle for 10-15 minutes then drained the oil and replaced the filter. We added the Cf5 (or in the linked instance the 44k which actually works better) to the fuel system and when we refilled the oil in the engine we added the MOA(Blue can) to the engine oil accounting for the capacity difference in oil (it's 11 ounces of MOA which is roughly 0.3 quarts which really only matters for finicky shit like Fords 1.6 Ecoboost garbage). When done by us at the dealership and continued on a maintenance program BG actually warranties the engine against break down. They also have chemicals for all other liquids like brake fluid and trans and coolant and the like. My father used it in his F150 and his trans went out and they covered the replacement cost which was something like 2500 or so USD. Anywho long ass story short those chemicals I still use every oil change cycle in my own car and while I don't really notice and major performance difference I have noticed that that my engine runs very smooth and when I watch the data on my diagnostic tablet (Snap On Solus for those who are curious) everything is running damn near perfect still after 6 years and 80,000 miles and I still have factory everything inside the engine (including spark plugs!) except oil, coolant, and air filters and the like. You know shit you're supposed to change from time to time.

Basically a lot of shit they offer I think is straight up bullshit (like getting coolant, brake fluid, and trans fluid swapped out way too often/too soon) but the BG oil change additive shit and the induction cleaning maybe every 30-40k or so depending on how you drive is something I do to my own car and if I do it to mine then I guess you can trust that I'm not selling you snake oil. Also fact check your dumbass service advisor. I had one who was notorious for selling power steering flushes on cars that don't fucking have hydraulic power steering! Dafuq yo? I've also had one that had this little old lady getting a fucking induction service with EVERY oil change. Worlds cleanest fuel induction system. We finally caught her because the lady came to another advisor and asked why we didn't recommend the "flush thingy".

Lucas fuel treatment

I dump in 6 ounces every tankful. I usually fill up on a 1/4 tank. You can buy a small bottle to carry in the truck that way you have a quart on hand and it's easy to put in. Then I refill it out of the gallon jug

I also use FPPF Killem Biocide Additive. 1/2 an ounce every other tank.

What kind of gas are you running? What brand?

In turbo engines running cheap low grade gas can cause carbon buildup. You should be buying gas from top tier stations.

Run this through your truck a couple of times, should help.

BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z4EKybBVCRTRY

Pri-D includes both and it's ~$33 and is good for 512 gallons. As I understand you can re-treat multiple times without problems.

If that’s the problem, you’ll have to get the carbon cleaned out. I had to get it done twice. Then going forward, fill up with tier 1 gas. (Tier 1 gas has detergent in it to keep carbon from building up inside the engine)

If you don’t use tier 1 on gas, then use gas treatment every time you fill up. A bottle of treatment goes for 4 bucks on amazon.

Good luck

Sort of. But you can also buy fuel stabilizer commonly used in the marine industry since when you haul your boat out for winter most people don't empty their tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I For the curious.

Dealer tech here; this is "off the record" but some Yamaha Ringfree . has worked miracles before. Typically sticky rings is seen on short-trip babied cars that never see high temp or high RPM, but given your mileage and consumption I'd give it a try.

Also chuck in fresh PCV valve in there, given the age I'd bet it's gummed up pretty bad. Should take you all of five minutes to do if you have a deep 19mm socket and a modicum of mechanical know-how.

For gas, you can use a stabilizer to store it for a few years. I use something like this to store gas although I tend to use it within a year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B68V6I

I store gasoline in my garage which gets down below freezing and up above 100°F. I tried the plastic style cans, but I had one burst and leak gas and on another one the nozzle cracked and came off.

This summer I tested Blitz metal cans. They are absolutely awesome. They can easily handle the pressure from summer temperatures and I had no problems with leaking, bursting, or anything else.

STA-BIL is ok, but PRI-G is much better. I've read a lot of reviews and stories of people having more success with PRI-G. Some people even claim that it can be used to recondition gasoline that has been sitting too long.

I've used both products in chainsaws, lawnmowers, a rototiller, generators, and I mostly rotate my stock through my vehicles. I try to buy low and use it when the prices spike. That isn't my primary reason for having extra gas, but it doesn't hurt to save some coin.

The longest I've kept gas is 18 months. I think that container had STA-BIL in it. No problems. My car ran fine. No noticeable difference. One of the things that I read, that I didn't know before, is that the more the shelf life is reduced every time the container is open or vents. The products in gas that evaporate first is what gives it the 'bang'. Liquid gas doesn't burn well, the vapors are where it's at.

I plan on storing gas in metal cans with PRI-G for at least three years. I'll be able to test that in a few months.

For the lazy. Basically, you squeeze the main reservoir and it fills up the upper portion to your desired measurement. I don't know that I'd drink mouthwash out of an old Stabil bottle though...

I second this. Try using this B3C Fuel Solutions 2-024-1 Mechanic In A Bottle 24 oz. Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHS25OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NDjGzbDH7J2EK

One more thing, if you really want to try cleaning the injectors, on this car, buy this and throw it in your gas tank following the instructions for how much on the bottle. It's basically all the dealer is doing.

http://www.amazon.com/PRI-Fuel-Stabilizer-Gasoline-Economy/dp/B005JP16TA

Buy this

Ever try a fuel stabilizer?

There's always this stuff. I've never used it though.

250blazeitfaggot

Wenn Du auf Nummer Sicher gehen willst, kauf noch einen Flirssbeebesserer - z.B. https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00295GSQE/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_1/255-5240728-1340140?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3QYFW514WAKC262K0P17
Den kippst du nach Anleitung vor dem tanken in den Tank, dann bist du bis ca. -30 grad sicher.

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Scepter-Resistant-Closures-5-Gallon-Military/dp/B000MT94TC

+

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Pour-Gas-Can-Replacement-Spout/dp/B06WRRXG1X

+

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22207-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000JJHNAW


Try to rotate as frequently as you can with ethanol free gas. I wouldn't recommend you let it go longer than 2 years, but I'm currently burning up some 2014 era gas and my toyota is giving me no complaints. I am running 50/50 fresh/old though.

Sta-Bil allows gas to be stored up to two years. I'd half that time just to be safe. To avoid it ever going bad, just cycle your stored gas through your car and replace it.

If it's a guaranteed 3-4 months, no worries. However, when it's out of sight out mind, your timeline may stretch and it'll become 6-8 months, etc.

So your gas doesn't turn to varnish if it does end up sitting longer than you expected, add some Sta-Bil.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

You can get this pretty much anywhere.

-Catalytic converters will start throwing codes eventually. Had my sensors spaced out (put a spacer between the sensor and spot they screw in on in the catalytic converter) so it wouldn't throw the codes anymore. I think the OEM converters are roughly 900 each.

-Here is a discussion on the timing chain for the 4.2L V8 S5. It does not seem to be the same issue as the earlier 4.2L V8's in the S4 and RS4's.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/778497-Timing-Chain-service-at-100k-miles

-Carbon will be an issue, just no good rule of thumb on how long to wait before getting it delt with. If you start seeing miss fire codes probably time to get it checked. My local non-audi shop charged me 800 for the time to clean it with break cleaner and a brush. They charge 86 an hour. You'll also get charged for new gaskets to put the intake manifold back on. However I was getting miss fire codes after getting mine cleaned so I ran a bottle of this through my gas tank and never saw the issue again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDVU6EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-I've not had an issue with mounts yet not sure if/when I will. My car is currently at 111k miles and I bought it at 66k miles and I'm at least the 3rd owner. If you decide to replace them you can get more solid motor mounts, here is one company that sells them but there are several others out there that should sell them as well.
https://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/index.php

-List of things I've had to get fixed that I can remember.

-headlights (If I recall it was about 250 for both new ones together)

-Carbon cleaning

-Stereo system went bad, had to go to dealership to fix it, 1400 for oem replacement, diagnosing and time to install ended up costing me 2k

-Replaced oil separator OEM roughly 350 hopefully cuts down on carbon build up. Considered an oil catch can just never pulled the trigger to do it. Gotta remember to empty those if you get one.

-Currently dealing with randomly leaking AC system. Shop put dye in the AC system when they refilled it twice now, still can't find where it's leaking out with the black light.

-Hood strut went bad, replaced it.

Basically all general maintenance stuff outside the audio system. If you have any other questions let me know.