(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best hardware adhesives & sealers

1. Oil dot filters and oil washes (gunk wash) are subtle changes to the overall tone of the kit and you're not going to be able to tell the difference between the two really when the kit is done. It doesn't really matter which you do first in my experience, but armor modelers seem to do a wash first and then the oil dot filters. Check out this video filters start at 10 minutes in.
   
2. There isn't a rule in what colors you need to use for what base coat. You need to decide what kind of environment has your mobile suit been in and select colors based on that. So for example, if your mobile suit has been fighting in the desert, then you'd want to have a more yellowish-beige-ish tone. Of course, you don't want to go over-board with the modulation, so your white parts will just have a slightly yellowish tone and not look like it's been painted yellow.
   
3. Maybe check out this video to get an answer on chipping. But yes, using a slightly lighter version of the base color and then your choice of the bare metal color (can be grey, silver, whatever you want) is a good way to do chipping. When it comes to white, use something contrasting like dark grey or maybe dark brown for a rust look.
   
4. You have the right idea going but you might want to use grey or dark grey instead of black. Black can be too contrasting just from an artistic point of view. You'd probably want to color-in the blasted part dark grey, dry brush the silver and add touches of rust here and there. But you also have to consider the state of your mobile suit. If the laser blast has been there for a while, you might not see silver metal, it'll probably be all rusted. And vice versa is true, if your mobile suit just got shot, there probably won't be any rust.
   
5. Yes there is a difference between acrylic and lacquer clear coat. Lacquer is generally more durable, it doesn't scratch as easily and you can use either enamels or acrylics on top of it safely, but it is pretty toxic stuff. Acrylics are a lot less toxic but if you paint enamels or lacquers over it, the enamel and lacquer paint will eat through the acrylic coat and can affect whatever work you have done under the varnish. Lacquers can indeed harm plastic, but if you use proper spraying technique (spray past your kit in multiple quick bursts), any solvents that can potentially harm the plastic will dry too quickly to do any damage. I'm not 100% sure what kind of a product the link you have is for, but ideally you'd want to find a good hobby brand spray can clear coat like this (acrylic) or this (lacquer)
   
6. Youtube and the wiki are your best friend, you don't need to buy books for those kinds of things, there are plenty of material out there. Checkout channels such as Gunpla Lab, Ravi Pla, JENIC, Zaku Aurelius, Musasino Plamodel, LIKE GUNPLA, (most of these channels speak korean some videos have subtitles, some don't) and non-gunpla channels such as PLASMO, Night Shift, Scale Modelling Channel and see what techniques can you bring over to gunpla. For a lot of the basic stuff and even some advanced techniques, check out Gunpla Lab's tutorial series and Paint Project series. They speak Korean but have professionally translated videos so the subtitles are fantastic.

Howdy - sorry for the slow reply! First off, I apologize for the detail but I have no idea if you know all this already or not. I'm no expert and learned all this as part of building our own house and thousands of hours of research. I figure it's better to overshare than provide too little.

Our walls were not parged. Based on what you have said, I'd think the tapcon-equivalent screws and glue would be the way to go though almost certainly overkill. If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing. In this case, you put glue on the board and spread it with a spreader. You then put the board on the wall and it will lock in place a bit with the glue. Then you drill into the wall through the foam for the screws/anchors. Finally, you just drive the anchors into and it's all locked together - solid and secure and very well insulated. After that, you tape the seams and you now have a tightly insulated basement and a great vapor barrier all in one.

This is the glue we used for the boards we did glue down:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043G3NYC/ref=asc_df_B003YHIAHQ5453396/
It worked very well and wasn't too nasty to work with. We used a spreader to avoid wasting glue. It also ensures you get good adhesion:
https://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-6287-Plastic-Notched-Spreader/dp/B000GARZ9S/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2

Drilling that many holes in concrete is a pain so you need a rotary hammer (at least I'd highly recommend it - useful tool all around as well). I used the 1 1/8th inch one from Harbor Freight but wished I'd picked up the larger one as it can get bits all the way up to 1 /12 diameter or more. Those huge bits are used to put holes in concrete for things like piping. Either way, it's a lot higher quality than I expected and makes short work of each hole:
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=rotary+hammer

We used Simpson anchors as they were a LOT cheaper than tapcons. We got em from a large construction supply house locally:
https://www.strongtie.com/mechanicalanchors_mechanicalanchoringproducts/ttn2_screw/p/titen-2
These need to be driven in along with some large washers. It takes some force so I'd suggest an impact driver using a socket or you'll kill your arms by the third board :)

As an alternative, Hilti and a few other companies make insulation anchors as well - here is a picture of them on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/i/352329215437?chn=ps
These require you to drill the wall and then hammer the fastener in. I didn't use those as I was in a hurry and couldn't get a quick local source of them without costing even more than the concrete anchors I used.

We used pressure treated 2x4 lumber for the fire block - every ten feet horizontally and eight feet vertically. For that reason, it's useful to get the "score board" type XPS foam. It has scoring that makes it trivial to split it in 1/2. That means two full sheets and one half sheet then a 2x4 screwed to the wall. The concrete screws and glue work great for the 2x4 as well.

Finally, you use good tape to seal all the seams to create a proper vapor barrier. This is what we used and it does adhere well to foam:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FQFROI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?

Whew, lots of stuff. Again I apologize if you already knew this. Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to respond more quickly. Thanks and good luck!

-Mike

Everything you suggested above sounds good. In order to paint the cabinets, you will have to clean and sand them before painting them. I would add a roman shade in a pop color of your choice to window or make it yourself with cloth and iron on tape. Not too sure of the cost, but I don't expect it over $20.

Making roman shades:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ksp4gsm1aY

I didn't get a chance to preview this video (my computer is running sllooooww), but it might be a good one for high gloss cabinets.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M27R7MqV2yI

As for the tiles, you can use bleach water to scrub it out and that might work, but there is also a grout cleaner that's more like white out and it works really well.

This is an example of the grout cleaner:
http://www.amazon.com/Tilex-Tile-Grout-Pen-Ounces/dp/B004I9EKAA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404533254&sr=8-2&keywords=grout+cleaner

As for the countertop, I would paint the trim the color matching the countertop so it blends in. I don't think there is much you can do other than clean them, but if you would like to try contact tape that might work, but it could damage the counter top and not sure it would be worth it. By the time you paint the walls and cabinets and add decor, you will hardly notice the tops.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

I have a few laminated and bent wood rings under my belt, including my wedding ring I've been wearing for the past year. From my experience, bentwood is the strongest, but I've never tried this level of lamination.

You mention never having used CA glue before, so I wanted to put this product on your radar: Thin CA Glue

It's thin enough to penetrate the wood w/o giving it an overly-plastic look. The challenge is applying it w/o gluing the ring to your hand. I let it cure then buffed my ring up to 1000-grit sandpaper, and a year of wear-and-tear has not put much of a dent in it's appearance.

Rambling on a bit more, one thing I've heard from commercial wooden ring makers is that long-term durability is difficult to guarantee. People who pay $100+ for a ring expect it to go the distance and would be disappointed with any deterioration in the appearance. This is the reason I believe you see a lot of wood/metal hybrids in the upper $$$ ranges.

With all that said, this ring is awesome, and I will definitely be trying my hand at one in the near-future. Thanks for sharing.

None of your stated methods is really going to do a good job, and even trying to repair a crack that long is pretty iffy. Nonetheless, the standard go-to for penetrating the area and sealing it with a minimum of extra crap that you have to clean off and polish is a product that never ceases to cause laughter: Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. It's a maritime product, designed to get in the cracks, seal and weld them and prevent moisture from entering. Be patient and fix it with repeated, minimal applications (from the interior of the cap, if possible). It seems to be the best answer for things like this, and can sometimes fix cracks in section (at least where there isn't pressure that keeps them opening).

Good luck.

I know it's not the greatest quality compared to loon, but if you're looking for affordable, I bought this stuff called "fiber fix" at Home Depot the other day. It's a light-activated super glue pen. It came as a kit for around ten to fifteen bucks, and it's well exceeded my expectations. It's way better than the AS-SEEN-ON-TV garbage, and it's lasted me a pretty good amount of time so far. Amazon link

First of all, let me begin by saying that I like black floors. Ok, sorry. Second of all, from the look of your pics on some of the painted white floor boards, you can see the drills indentation around the hole, where they drilled in order to put in the nails. Those drilled holes are the only reason that oak is not all split up. And removing those pieces without the oak splitting up would prove difficult, if not impossible.

Question: Are the nailed cut boards moving when stepped upon? Or are they quite solid?
Because if they are solid, or near that, you can place some masking tape over the gaps between the boards, in order to keep a wood filler product from falling through, and just fill up the entire sloping area the best you can. Or you can caulk all of the gaps the day before you put down the filler, with construction glue. Construction glue might prove the better solution, to solidify and strengthen the area as much as possible before the putty becomes part of your floor.


Get something like this and mix it up, easy on the water.

And use something like this to smooth out the product.

Don't use spackle, just Sheetrock 45 joint compound. It's a better value and works really well. Mix a bag of it with some water until it's like pudding and then spread it over the drywall damaged area and smooth it out. It shrinks very little so when its dry it might be ready to paint. Otherwise if it's still not flat you can add some more compound.

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For the wood trim, use a wood epoxy like these two products:

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https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-40007-Restore-Premium/dp/B005493KGI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539115977&sr=8-2&keywords=JB+wood+epoxy

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https://www.amazon.com/System-Three-1-Quart-SculpWood-Moldable/dp/B013K36RUU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1539116022&sr=8-9&keywords=wood++filler+epoxy

​

These two products are amazing. It works like play-doh and hardens into a wood-like product.

Allright, here goes.

What I would do is aim for [something roughly this shape](https://i.imgur.com/gwSfsSJ.jpg]

What I'd do is cut according to this sort of plan and use an anglegrinder with cut-off disc to chop the tang out (marked in red), then use a dremel (Marked in blue) for the fine cuts. I would then round off the shoulder of the blade with a round chainsaw file to remove the risk of stress raisers.

Once there, I'd use a Warding File to file in the little notch step down at the bottom of the tang, from a rough squared-out cut , to become a round circle along its length. That's going to become your Pein, when the whole thing is assembled.
I'd then put that pein part in a flame - ideally a blue gas flame, wrapping the blade in a damp cloth to ensure its not getting hot. you'll ideally want to get that part glowing red-hot. What that'll do is completely blow the temper on that part of the tang, so its no longer hardened at all. that'll let you pein it over later.

Then I'll take two pieces of steel, curved into arcs and I'll clamp them down, and start to drill the centre - that will depend on the blade of course, but what you want in effect is a slot, for your since its from a blade that's probably going to be a () shape, or maybe even a <> shape.

you'll use that warding file to slowly widen the drilling, taking it from two holes side by side into a rectangle, then widening it and shaping it to match the blade cross-section. Once that's done, repeat on the second one, to sit on the other end of the tang. For it, you will probably want to use a small 4-inch square-cut file to get that to fit. You want to use a square so that the pommel end guard doesnt swivel around at all.

that's then topped off with a little pein block which serves a double purpose - it makes it easier to repair if it ever has a problem (just file it off and put a new, smaller block on) and, as that part of the tang was filed round, you just need a drill to make a round hole, instead of a rectangular hole. (also a small pein is easier to do - just clamp in a vise and hammer over like a rivet. Having softened the metal by getting it glowing red earlier, you can probably do this part cold, so no torches needed.)

lastly, I'd then make a two-piece wooden grip, the bread around the tang in a sandwich, in effect, out of beech or similar hardwood (though poplar should do for that, and its easy to carve out the slot for the tang in.

I'd make that a bit thinner than you expect it to be - over-bulky grips are a common mistake - Glue it together, and wrap it in fine cord with hide glue and then I would follow this fantastic tutorial guide from Peter Johnsson to wrap a section of fine vegetable-tanned leather round it, wrap that in cord, and have a beautiful leather hilt at the end.

Yeh, just to summarize real quick:

You could do it yourself but it would look like crap, and would take forever.

But, you could do with asking the contractor some questions ahead of time, like:

• what type of material would you use for the exterior 'wood'. Why?
  
  
• will you remove the window? will you nail it back in or screw it. Why?
  
  
• Do you need to remove the interior trim? why? Do you need to repaint things?
  
  I went to lowes today, and I bought some epoxy wood repair: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E761L-Damaged-Repair-12-Ounce/dp/B000GUDAVA for two other windows that I need to fix. They aren't quite as bad as the one I posted about. But it seems like this is a hell of a lot easier. Maybe it will get another 5 years life out of my windows. And much much easier to apply.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Use PVA wood glue to glue it, dries clear and doesn't fog canopies. I use titebond like this, I think american's call it Elmers glue, but it's that white stuff you had at school that you can peel off your sticky fingers, you don't need a lot.

I also dip them in future floor polish as it makes them look lovely and shiny and clear like this, although i never touched the edges of that Typhoon up.

We use caulk a lot where I work, and we are less than professional with all the caulk jokes.

The best was when I found out one of our standards was super caulk... imagine my joy when I got to start talking about "super caulk" on a conference call with a customer.

I don’t know if the product I was looking at is chlorinated rubber, but this is the product:
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Rubber-Waterproof-Sealant-Coating/dp/B00YYKJDEQ?th=1&psc=1

If I find the crack/hole as fill it with a silicone patch, maybe I wouldn’t even need to seal with liquid rubber?

Is there a particular silicone sealant product you would recommend that is fish/frog safe?

Thanks for your reply!

You want Tightbond 2 specifically OP for best results. Make sure to embed a paper tab too for lifting off the glue once dry. A 1" x 2" piece of card paper (from a food box for instance) would be great.

You'll need a warmer for it, because it's solid at room temperature! And be warned—it SMELLS. It's literally melted animal parts, and it smells like it.

ETA: We had this one at the shop where I was learning violin making, but it's pretty expensive to invest in on a whim. I've also read about people using crock pots; YMMV. You want to use a glue like this, not the weird shit that comes in a bottle pre-made. And seriously, it stinks. Don't do it in a room that you want to smell right ever again.

Just read the tube. It's Plexus MA310, which is methylacrylate. It's really expensive, but DAMN is it strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Off-White-Two-Part-Accelerator-Methacrylate/dp/B007468O56

The cartridges last a lot longer if kept refrigerated and the easiest way to use it correctly is to squirt it into a ziploc bag, close the bag, zip-tie off the portion with the adhesive in it, then mix the two in the bag for 2 minutes until it gets warm, then use a razor blade to cut a hole in the bag so you can dispense from it.

After you've applied enough adhesive you set the bag aside and use it as a gauge to tell when the adhesive has finished curing.

I've used it to glue aluminum to stainless steel. Delrin to Stainless Steel, PVC to PVC (mostly as a gap filler), and other joints where welding or other adhesives might not bond well.

If I want to joint two shells together I usually make a patch plate of some kind to do the structural work. A little piece of polycarbonate or aluminum and a few screws works great. But to fill in around the seam you want something like this adhesive or an epoxy putty so you can sand the joint back down later.

Right, or dye it, which might be easier and work better. If you can find a dye to match your stain. Better to err on the dark side since the glue or epoxy will be lighter colored.

You could also try a colored wood filler. I have had good experiences with Goodfilla wood filler, which is available in several colors and you can also stain or dye it further:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IUUUANO

No no no. Don't use wood glue! If the guitar is worth anything to you use hide glue. First, remove the glue using hot steam, or a rag damp with 160 degree water (this will take a long time and you will have to make sure it is very dry afterwards [48 hours drying at least]). Heat the glue with the right proportion of water (start with a dryer mixture and add until a "goopy" consistancy) up to 145-150 degrees Fahrenheit in a disposable jar and use a paint brush to apply a thin layer underneath the bridge. Then, while the glue is still hot, affix it exactly where it was prior. Use a band clamp and a light weight, or more suitable clamp and let it sit for 24 hours. This should be sufficient time for the glue to set. Then, re-string with nylon strings and play. If you set the bridge right it should be good as new. It might even be better. So yes, you can repair the guitar yourself, but it is still reccomended to go to a luthier. Why don't you head over to the subreddit?

I’ve fixed my own a couple of times, but I’m no expert. Use something like this, your local hardware store should carry something comparable. There are videos on YouTube as well. However, eventually you will have to replace the tub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZHVLYG/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T4QCK207EX5PNZTT373M&dpPl=1&dpID=81rP39r9QOL

Acrylic is soft and 'pushy'. I am going to guess (but don't know) that you have a fiberglass tub.

That being said, fiberglass is water proof. Follow this guide:

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/repair-small-surface-chip-fiberglass-tub-88397.html

This kit is easy to use:

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-244166-Specialty-Touch-White/dp/B006ZHVLYG

There are several types of hide glue that will give you extended "open time" (the length of time before the glue sets) that you need. The easiest to use is the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, which is already mixed and liquified. Ground Hide Glue must be heated in a double boiler or glue pot to liquify and use it. Some folks around here (/u/joelav for example) prefer it to most any other glue types. Either one will give you extended "open time" and the ability to steam the joints apart if things go awry.

They sell repair kits (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Porc-Porcelain-Repair-Kohler-Biscuit/dp/B00LS5K7AY or https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-244166-Specialty-Touch-White/dp/B006ZHVLYG/ref=pd_sim_60_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006ZHVLYG&pd_rd_r=08E38YVSAAXXTRJ5BKWZ&pd_rd_w=QorLu&pd_rd_wg=RMece&psc=1&refRID=08E38YVSAAXXTRJ5BKWZ) but I don't have any first-hand knowledge of their efficacy.