(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best household poly & varnishes

Awh, that sounds like a good night, at least. I mean, at least you weren't stressed out or running around and you were able to relax together, albeit doing different things. My boyfriend and I usually have our respective Me time as we mostly stay in and hangout with each other. We're both pretty broke right now, too, so until I get a job we won't be doing too much of anything. I LOVE to bake, and he loves to eat my baked goods, so I would definitely want to bake something for him! Perhaps some tasty mini filled cakes that are root beer float themed-root beer flavored cakes with a creamy vanilla filling. (He has requested that flavor combination to be included in one of my next creations.) Or I could make some mini ice cream sandwiches! Ahhh they're SO cute! These ones are adorable, too! Vanilla cookies with orange cream ice cream, because we just found a half pint ice cream maker at the thrift store (still in the box sealed, $7!!) and I want to use it for something adorable. Of course, if I were baking I would need an oven mitt so I didn't burn myself =P My favorite mitt got a hole right between the thumb and the rest of the mitt. Fail. Let's be honest, this freaking mixer would make my LIFE, not just my night, but that will just have to wait until I win the lottery or something. ;P

After baking, we could both lounge around and I would make some cool crafts. I have been wanting to make coasters using these dyes and/or these dyes or these ones and alcohol on some ceramic tiles. Look! How freaking awesome, right?! Cool times. (How old are your kiddos? These would be SO much fun to make with kids!! Have them sign their names in sharpies with the date!) Plus then our wood coffee table won't be ruined. So, you know, that would be good. While I'm crafting he would certainly be playing some video games. He has been lusting over Dead Space 3 FOREVER. (So, if I happen to win and it is within the budget, that is the top item for me, because I know how happy he would be to have it and I can't afford to get it for him right meow.)

While waiting for the crafts to dry I would play with my kitties. This toy is awesome looking. Once the kitties were all tuckered out, I would seal the tiles and then I would absolutely want to paint my nails. Boyfriend would still be playing video games so I would sit next to him on the couch and paint nails and watch him own. He's so good at shooting games, I love watching him play! I'm sure he would be eating some of the fresh bakery, too =) I would paint them this most amazing green color EVAR with some glitter on top. Then, because I don't know when to stop with anything having to do with my nails, would add these super freaking cool studs to them!

After all that I would be pretty tired, so I would just lounge around on the couch waiting for my nails to dry while he inevitably still played his game. lol. Yes, this would be perfect me time and him time and us time and just a perfect night in! This is a really cool contest idea! <3

I would suggest:

• 1 Can of Sanding Sealer. I like Miniwax. http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-Sanding-Sealer-1-Qt/dp/B004Y6TTKI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1347410607&sr=8-6&keywords=Sanding+Sealer
  
• 1 can of each stain color, oil based. Again, Miniwax. http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-70012-Finish-Interior-Walnut/dp/B001CESFSM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1347410632&sr=8-2&keywords=minwax
  
• 1 or more cans of Laquer (nitrocellulose lacquer, BRUSH ON TYPE) http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-15500-Clear-Brushable-Lacquer/dp/B00100C6KG/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1347410833&sr=8-13&keywords=Brush+on+Laquer
  
• a bag of cheap 'chip' brushes. Use them once, then throw them away.
  
• a bag of painters rags.
  
• a Tack Cloth, or otherwise specialty rag for wiping up sawdust
  
• Sand Paper- 120, 220, 320, 800. That's all I'd get, since i don't think you'll have to do the fine polish.
  
  
  Basic process (You have the video to fallow, but these steps are general steps for almost all woodworking finish)
  
  
• Sand up to 220
  
• wipe with tack cloth
  
• apply sealer with brush, wipe excess with rag
  
• sand with 320, just scratch the surface
  
• wipe with tack cloth
  
• apply stain. Brush on with brush, wipe off excess
  
• apply gloss finish. Laquer melts into it's previous layers, so fallow the directions on the can (some want sanding between coats, some don't. Generally you will scratch the surface with 320, wipe clean, and apply the next layer. You'll do at least 3 layers. More layers mean a larger layer of protection, and a higher gloss finish)
  
  
  Other Options, instead of Laquer:
  
  
• Resin. The 2 part kind. Harder to work with, but creates a layer of protection that's more than 1/16" thick. Thats like, 30 layers of laquer. Also, it's super shiney.
  
• Shelac. You can also use Shelac instead of Sanding Sealer, it'll just tint the finish a little (Not a bad thing! will just ad a light amber tint to everything) A good finishing option if you need longer working times than laquer
  
• Polyethylene based finish for Flooring. It makes a good seal, is easy to work with, but will never be as nice as you'd like. It is, however, uber cheap
  
• Just oil. Like Thru Oil or Mineral Oil. Good satin finish, easy to use, but you will have to re-oil it every so often.

Thanks! You have to dissembled the joy cons which is pretty simple after my first one. 5-10 minutes each joy con.

From another reply I posted.

"You want to start off using an air brush kit. You can get some pretty cheap ones for about 80 bucks that will do the job. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q.
I have a better air brush that's about 150 bucks alone but it's because we use it for other stuff that requires more precision. You won't need something that much to do the job.
Start off taking out your joycons and cleaning it. Use grey or black primer and let it cure for 12+ hours. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Black-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B004BN5RUU/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1494183787&sr=1-2&keywords=airbrush+black+prime
As for the paint itself, you can use any of these and it depends on what you like. https://www.amazon.com/Color-Changing-Holographic-Paint-2oz/dp/B0015H4G2K. I used the gold/green/orange/purple so it changes to any of these colors based on the angle.
For the finish, I used https://www.amazon.com/Deco-Touch-Varnish-8-Ounce-Clear/dp/B00HQME2R2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494183686&sr=1-1&keywords=soft+touch+varnish. It gives it a really nice soft touch feel but it's very thick. You'll want to thin it out a bit and let it cure for 24+ hours. Multiple coats the better for that extra protection and long lasting feel. Although I used these here, I am finding that they will wear out eventually. I am redoing the finish with this now. https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Matt-Model-Color-Varnish/dp/B000PH9JPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494191915&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+matte+varnish. You can also go with a glossy finish if you want as well.


I just started air brushing a few months ago so just practice on some test objects."

By some oil modified water based polyurethane. Get some wide foam brushes you only need a small can. wipe the surface clean with tack cloth then after stirring the polyurethane use the foam brush to do the top apply a quick even layer across the top. Then do the sides with a smaller brush thats as wide or a bit wider than the sides. Dont use a lot make the first coat a bit light so it doesn't drip ( use a plastic drop cloth under the table top and prop it up off the surface.) Once you finish applying the first coat wait 2-3 hrs apply another coat same way. Then apply the third coat. Let dry for 2-4 hours it should be completely dry and clear. Using a 220 grit sanding sponge lightly sand the surface (all you need to do is smooth the surface dont sand it roughly) Once top and side are smooth use a tack cloth to clear the surface of dust. Now apply a fourth coat and check for smoothness. If its nice and smooth and your happy with the finish. Let dry cure for 48 hrs. If its not smooth lightly sand again and repeat the process with a final 5th coat. This will result in smooth clear finish that while not as hard as a true oil polyurethane is still very strong and durable. It can also be repaired in the future via light sanding and adding another coat.

It really is as easy as painting a wall or item with a paint can and brush. Its really a no brainer.

Poly I used https://www.amazon.com/ZAR-36212-Ultra-Modified-Polyurethane/dp/B003KIPF54

Generic foam brushes I usually use a 3-4 inch brush for this work

get a cheap plastic paint tub so you can portion out what you need and dont need to worry about brush fittings or making a mess.

Tack cloths are cheap get a few.

Total cost: $65

Poly $25-30

Foam Brushes $10 (3 small brushes 3 large brushes) or just place them in a sealed plastic bag and get 1 each

Drop cloth $5-10

Sanding sponge $10

Tack cloths $5

Thats it, no special this or that just do the above and you will have a solid durable finish.

Gulf wax
Paraffin Household Gulf Wax (Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8N3NT6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


And paraffin oil
Behlen Paraffin Oil, 1 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O246M8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Rice cooker
Elite Cuisine ERC-003 Rice Cooker... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B2UADE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are the three items to start the whole process. Mix the waxes as Ozzie describes. Also, as he says, the amount of wax you have to work with is enough for a very long time so initially, sure it costs more than a bottle of regular chain lube but over time it’s definitely a big money saver. It did take me a minute to find the right paraffin oil for the best price, but that was the one. Make sure to strip the chain really well first. Best bet would be to just start with a new chain, strip that, and then wax it.

depending on how rough it feels I would suggest starting with an 80g or 100g and then finishing with 120g and 220g. You can skip the first one if it is not super rough. Get one of those sanding sponges with the different angles on them. That will be easier on you hand than just sand paper. Becasue of the shape you'll want something that you can wipe or spray on. Use 4-5 thin coats. The easiest/cheapest option would be a wipe on poly or even better an Aerosol Spar Urethane. EDIT Also, sand lightly in between coats with 220 or higher. This helps the next coat stick.

You might also consider trying to fix a few of those larger cracks by filling them in with a two part epoxy

Good luck! It will be a nice surprise for her when she returns.

Epifanes varnish. Use the Wood Finish Gloss to build up a smooth surface without sanding between each coat. Sand after a few coats and apply the Clear varnish for a stunning finish. It will give you the rich color you're after and the clear super smooth high gloss finish you want. Plus it has super UV and water resistance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ADX4N2/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51QTN7uDRlL._SY200_QL15_&slTrans=0&ref=nsDpPl

http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

Your wax paste looks like the right stuff.

The 2nd link is for shellac primer, not shellac itself. I would recommend something more like this.

I have never used a sanding sealer, but under the questions on that amazon link, I saw that someone said that it darkened their wood slightly. Since you want to keep the wood color as natural as possible, I wouldn't reccomend this.

By the way, here is a great tutorial on applying shellac and wax.

Highly recommend the Mohawk Finisher's Choice clear lacquer. Goes on super nice.

Make sure you let your friend's artwork dries really, really thoroughly and apply a few solid layers of de-waxed shellac over it before the lacquer coat (I like the Bulls-Eye SealCoat stuff). If you don't, you risk the paints interacting badly. It might also be good to lay down a coat of shellac before your friend paints to stop their work soaking into the wood.

I'd suggest letting the art dry for at least 2 weeks. Apply a thin layer of the shellac with a soft brush. Let it dry for a few hours. Apply another coat, but french polish this one (so it's super smooth). Let it dry overnight then apply a third coat (also french polish). Let it dry for 24 hours then gently sand it flat with 320 grit. Then wipe it down with a lightly damp cloth (not with denature alcohol, use water), wait 10 mins, then apply another layer with a french polish technique.

After that's dried for 24 hours, start spraying lacquer! This will mean there's a solid, even layer to lay the lacquer down, and several layers between the lacquer and the art.

Thanks so much!

Poured on two layers of this epoxy, sanded to 400 grit between each, let them both cure and they came out super glossy so I put down a really thin layer of minwax satin poly. The epoxy definitely brought out a lot of beautiful color and helped fill all the imperfections without covering them up.

no idea about that. i've had mine for about a year and a half, and they're still like new. hopefully there's someone on here that's had it a while longer. i would have preferred to swap the cabinets out, but they're solid oak/plywood framed and in excellent condition, just the absolute wrong color (bright orange hued red oak). i think my last house, the cabinets were around $8k. this gel finish cost me about $500, but probably 100+ hours.

my deciding factor (other than my opinion that almost all painted cabinets look cheap) was i had an extra cabinet that i had removed, and i did half each method. sanding sucked, and i knew i didn't want to do that with that many cabinets (too much fine detail). also, i wanted to keep the wood grain, which painting would not preserve. if your cabinet is flat or has minimal detail where you can just run a power sander over the whole face, it may be a viable option. once i decided on gel, i tried a few different colors to see how they would look, how many coats i would need, etc. i ended up going with dark gray x3 coats, and clear x3 coats, with a very light sanding sponge in between each coat. stain was about a week to dry each coat. clear was a few hours.

stain

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KML6BCC/

clear

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT4QJS/

I like danish oil (dark walnut by the look of that example pic) for a stain and clear gloss poly. all you would need to do is sand the pieces with 150 grit then apply the stain in 2-3 coats, it will darken as it dries over time. after its dry sand with 220 grit sand paper and apply 1 coat of poly. wait for it to dry then sand again and apply 1 more coat of poly. both the danish oil and the poly "harden" the piece so the more coats of each you apply the more the pieces will feel like plastic and less like natural wood.

example of poly: https://smile.amazon.com/Minwax-230004444-Drying-Polyurethane-Gloss/dp/B000LNQVXQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496755772&sr=1-7&keywords=minwax+polyurethane

example of danish oil: https://smile.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-242220-Walnut-Danish-Finish/dp/B000ONVIC2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496755830&sr=1-1&keywords=dark+walnut+danish+oil

Thanks, used miniwax wood finish (gunstock) for the general stain and Dr.PH. Martin's ink while sanding, cleaning and drying well a few times over then a few layers of high gloss tung oil. These are just the brands I had on hand and generally like the products.

yeah, waterbased polyurethane is fine.

this would work well
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-260165-Touch-Polyurethane-Quart/dp/B00714ZOOA

Other stuff, like say a catalyzed laquer, would be better sprayed.

"Old Fashioned Milk Paint" is zero VOC and awesome looking. Sand lightly between coats. Use gloves with this as the lye is caustic before the reaction with the milk protein.. after it dries, it's fine.

Topcoat with a couple of wipe on/wipe off coats of https://www.amazon.com/Tried-True-Wood-Finish-Danish/dp/B003DL6VQA/ USE VERY VERY LITTLE OF THIS PRODUCT, and rub it to get off what you can after letting it sit an hour... during the wipe-off phase, the rag should come clean.

check out the MDS/MSDS of all the stuff you want to use and judge for yourself.

Yugos look best with natural coloring, and minimal to no gloss.
I've used Formby's low gloss tung oil (be sure to get low gloss) to good results. It isn't a true tung oil (more of a varnish) but leaves a nice solid finish.

Hmm it's a huge table top (5ft) so I don't think I can get a nice brush all the way across. Do you think I can use this? Minwax 622224444 Polycrylic Protective Finish, 1 quart, Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NNJQIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7F7HDbSNGSCE8

There is a brand of Danish Oil (Tried & True) that claims to be made without any toxic chemicals: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DL6VQA/

I've used it a bunch of times and it works well. It's actually certified food grade - personally I would not trust it that much but I'm sure a surfboard will be fine!

Check this stuff out: https://amzn.com/B000BZYYQ0

Or, you could put a piece of glass on top of the door.

I would make sure that this is going to be an aesthetic that you'll like though...

Ah, ok. The problem with those is usually the cheap fit between the wood base and the horn.

A lot of people use Envirotex to seal their horns, that would certainly work in your case: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour--Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432588567

I was wondering about the specifics about coating it. Wasnt familiar with spar urethane. So this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-63205444-Helmsman-Urethane-quart/dp/B0044FFL06?th=1

I will probably do this at a minimum. Thanks!

I really like Formby's tung oil varnish blend, you can get it at Lowe's or on Amazon. http://amzn.com/B000BZZ4ZU

Thanks!

This sort of thing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NNJQIS

Thanks, I'm going to go ahead and try thin layers of Envirotex pour on gloss. Has 1 bottle of resin and 1 bottle of hardener that you mix.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZYYQ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Minwax wipe on poly, clear gloss.

http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-60900-Wipe-On-Polyurethane-Finish/dp/B009YNUT6Y

I'd use Spar urethane which is intended for outside weather conditions. Choose the finish you'd like.

Clean it well. Seal the inside with a food safe sealant. Bee's wax is the most common, but you can get other hardier things like this bar top sealer. bee's wax shouldn't be washed with hot water, or used with hot beverages it'll damage the seal.

This one?

Dark Walnut comes close. BLO doesn't "protect". For outdoor protection use some Polyurethane made for the outdoors, such as:
Minwax 33250000 Helmsman Spar Urethane Aerosol, 11.5 ounce, Gloss https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z8DGJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9ScUzbY3QPPYS

Literally 30 seconds of googling

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/dhorn.html

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour--Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432588567&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+top+epoxy

I've done a similar thing:

https://imgur.com/a/lm5Yx

I mixed the glow powder with this resin and dripped it into all the bug-eaten spots in the wood.

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0

Someone has been using this stuff out at renfests for years - Link.

I used this stuff. I think it cured for almost 14 days before I rubbed it.

Environmental Technology 32-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_udmuDb775X4MY

You pour it on

You could try this stuff. It should fill the pores and hold up to normal cutting board activities.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZYYQ0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000PEGLBS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=02DD0C7Y29K9P9X27FZW

Looked around and tried to find some, but poly isn't very popular here at all and there's nowhere that stocks anything minwax whatsoever it seems (checked multiple amazons and price runners across the continent), so I am considering importing from the US - how's this look: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009YNUT6Y/ ?

Formbys 30064 Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZZ4ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rp.QBbRZPSRG8

This is actually before they are coated and I'm not sure I chose the right option here, but I'm currently coating them with a 2 part epoxy resin which I will then sand with some 600 grit to take away the gloss and give it a satin finish.

However, the kind I used is really meant for a horizontal surface, so I'm having trouble getting it to apply to all of the sides in an even fashion.