Reddit mentions: The best hydraulic oils

I imagine they bled any air out, however that might be something to make sure is done (let me know if you need those details). You could also opt to get a PS conditioner like Royal Purple (which I love), a turkey baster or hand pump, and a plastic container like a water bottle.. and then pull fluid and replace, cycle through with the car on, and then repeat again. I'd also suggest inspecting the pulley, belt/tension. The last thing that comes to mind currently is that it would be a good idea to make sure your mounts are good and not allowing for severe & excessive movement.

AMAZON-WALMART (DIRECT) VS AMAZON-WALMART (RESELLERS)

AMAZON: always check for products amazon prime: https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-Hydraulic-10-5-Gallon-Pail/dp/B0157STBH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482849700&sr=8-1&keywords=aw+46

WALMART: always check for products sold by walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/AW-46-Hydraulic-Oil-Fluid-ISO-VG-46-SAE-15-5-Gallon-Pail/54045743



Here is how it works - with resellers

1. You import products to your online site
   
2. Your customers view the products, do a regular checkout and place the order on your online site
   
3. You collect the payment and fulfill the order
   Amazon/Walmart is not the drop-shipper. You are responsible for sourcing the products and delivering to your customers. You have to provide customer service.
   This option is best suited for people who sell products.
   We do not recommend drop-shipping for those who are looking to place manual order on online in response to their customers placing an order on your site. It leads to fulfillment and customer service issues.
   

What kind of work are you doing?

Also I'm guessing for the price point you're shooting with DSLRs, have you considered going the video monopod route instead? I got one of these not long ago and I really love it, combined with a stabilizer for shots when I have/want to move it works perfectly for my workflow, and doesn't restrict me in the same way a shoulder rig does, and lets me get beautiful stable fluid pan and tilts.

It's worth noting also that gimbals have come down in price so much over the last year, when the movi first came out it was pretty unobtainable but now with the ronin and other competitors it's becoming a lot more realistic, and I think for lightweight videography shoulder rigs may start to become a thing of the past.

Food for thought anyway.

Thanks, looks like its on Amazon

>Fuel gauge is broken, I am assuming the float on the canister is junk

>


Is just the fuel gauge broken? Or other gauges? Gm instrument clusters have HUUGE problems where they stop working. If its just the fuel, should be fixed with a new fuel pump assembly. If others aren't working also, I'd suspect an issue with the cluster.


>-Hard to turn left, (bent tierod end? Rack going bad?

>

Your truck doesn't have a rack, it has a steering gearbox. Start by checking the power steering fluid level


>-Tcase switches to all 4 modes (Auto,2hi,4hi,4lo) but the front axle does not spin (actuator?)

>

How exactly are you checking this? By hand or driving it? Could be front axle actuator.


>-I will be towing a trailer with my cherokee on it what rear gear oil should I use and what friction modifier

>

Look in the owner's manual for recommended fluid type. Look in the glove box for a silver sticker with a bunch of 3 letter/number codes on it. Is there a G80? If so, you have a rear locking differential. Use synthetic 75w-90 lube. Get 3 bottles. Don't need to add any friction modifiers to it. Front diff takes 80w-90 I believe.

>-Tcase oil, should I just use GM fluid or use regular dex3
>

You said your truck has an "AUTO 4WD" button, correct? This means you have the automatic version of the transfer case, you need to use GM Autotrak II fluid 2 quarts will fill it. Do not use ATF. If you only have buttons for 2hi, 4hi and 4lo, or a manual lever on the floor, you have the manual t-case. In which case atf is fine.


>-Trans dex 3 or 6?
>

3 is perfect

The 3rd image shows what appear to be locations that could be drilled fairly easily. Use a sharp drill bit, some cutting fluid, and go slowly.

Have you checked your hydraulic steering fluid level? Make sure engine is off before you open it.

They sell it at Autozone, green canister.

CHF 11S
https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-CHF-Synthetic-Hydraulic-Fluid/dp/B002WTHW26

I found this https://www.amazon.ca/Renewable-Lubricants-Bio-Food-Hydraulic-Gallon/dp/B00C3M4HQQ
I could not find any stuffers with that name but boy that equipment was built solid

It would be tricky to get something that smooth without a fluid head tripod.

You could use something like a DJI Osmo gimbal if you needed something really compact to get this sort of shot. It won't be as steady or as smooth as a tripod (you may need to use warp stabalizer to smooth it out further if you wanted to mimic the tripod movement).

Other gimbals are available of course, though not all gimbals support manual pan/tilt control (some only do one or the other) so make sure you do your research.

If you've got money to burn, then you can get a monopod with a fluid head which would be a lot eaisier to carry around versus a full set of sticks - not as stable though!

Other than using proper PPE you could use Kolor Kut which is a water finding paste, we use this for water detection in bulk fuel tanks.

I personally wouldn't wanna use it in an aircrafts fuel tank in case some of the paste were to come off and make its way into a fuel filter/line and clog it up

Here's a link

https://www.amazon.com/Kolor-Kut-Ounce-Water-Finding/dp/B00905UC5E

Sounds like you have a leaking pump or line. I did the same thing to mine playing in snow banks a couple years ago. Look under the jeep for a leak and get it fixed asap. If there is nothing obvious I would try a power steering fluid that has a stop leak additive. Mine was low a couple months ago, I added this stuff and it stopped leaking. Make sure to park with your wheels straight too.

http://www.amazon.com/STP-Power-Steering-Fluid-Stop/dp/B0009PCPRW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

Here is the official way to do it, which works well. The piston in the clutch master is very small, and doesn't move very much oil, so the old pump, hold, crack bleeder, repeat method doesn't work that well.

You can use the Magura Blood clutch fluid/kit, but it's stupid expensive, I have been using the Motorex stuff in my KTM's forever and it's worked just fine.