(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best individual drive sockets

If you want to start working on your car when the time comes, you're gonna eventually need a floor jack and jack stands. Preferably 4 jack stands, but most common jobs that require raising it will only need 1 or 2 at any given time, so you can likely get by with 2, or even 1 as you're just starting out. The only time I use 4 jack stands is when I want to save money on new tires. I bring the tire place my 4 wheels and have them take the old tires off and put the new tires on, bring them home and put the wheels back on myself.

Regarding jacks and jack stands, learn where your cars jack points are-- I would recommend getting a Factory Service Manual for it if you don't have one. Should be able to find a PDF online somewhere. This FSM will also have useful repair info, maintenance info, fluid capacities/specs, and torque specs.

For tools, a set like this should get you through many of the more common repairs, such as replacing brake pads and rotors, replacing some suspension components, and many things under the hood (alternator replacements, belts, battery, spark plugs, etc etc). Having a few swivel adapters like these could be handy too, but not always necessary if you can get creative. I might also suggest having a longer socket extension than what comes in a set like what I linked above. Sometimes you just need a long boi.

A decent breaker bar will come in handy for making wheel lug nut removal easier. Doesn't have to be CRAZY long. A 2 footer is usually enough, but longer will require less effort. A torque wrench is also a plus for putting lug nuts back on. Different manufacturers want their wheel lug nuts to be tightened to specific torque ratings, and this will allow you to do that.

For brake jobs (pad and rotor replacement, typically), having a brake caliper piston compressor like this can make things easier. There are other styles for slightly different applications, but I've never NOT been able to make this style work among a wide array of vehicles. I've seen people use plain ol' C-clamps to compress the caliper pistons, and have also had to do so myself, but the right tool will make it a bit easier. I guess if you're a gorilla you might be able to just push them back in by hand too if they move freely enough.

The things you will probably want to rent at first are specialty tools. These are tools that perform very specific tasks, and that you probably won't need anywhere near as often as other, more common tools. Many of these specialty tools are listed on most automotive parts store sites. I have no preference of auto stores, but for the sake of an example: Here is o'reilly's list of rental tools.

Once you get to a new repair you've never done, i'd start with youtube as i'm sure others will suggest. If that's not enough, come here and ask.

EDIT: If you have money to spare, a decent air compressor and some air tools can go a long way. Not necessary by any means though. A 3/8 18v electric impact wrench is nice to have as well, but is also unnecessary.

I have 2 of their rails but not that model. In my experience they are machined and finished quite well. Both of mine have anti-rotation tabs as well. They don't come with the barrel nut wrench though. Pretty sure this is the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14222-16-Inch-Shallow-12-Point/dp/B000NPZ5LG/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=2BA7HVKANK2M8&keywords=1+1%2F16+socket&qid=1550689842&s=gateway&sprefix=1+1%2F16+&sr=8-8

In my experience their rails aren't the most durable I've seen, not in the same league as Geissele for example; the aluminum is quite thin, and the barrel nut is pretty basic. But their machining and finish looks good, and the anti rotation tabs are a bonus. Both of mine are really light as well.

At any rate it's just an option to keep in mind. I'd definitely wait a day to see if other suggestions come up.

> Don't want to build one

I get this, because I had exactly the same position a month ago. But I just finished a build last night.

Here's what happened:

• I live in Ca, they are going to ban AR-15's in CA soon, so I got a couple stripped lowers for ~100$ each at the local gun shop, so no FFL mail order issues.
  
  
• On the advice of a friend, I went on gunbroker.com, just to peruse AR-15 parts to get a sense of what is required to build one. Ran into this, and impulse bought it (399$).
  
  
• Got fired up and picked up lower parts kit, buffer tube, CA bullet button, magpul back sight, and magpul stock(~150$) from LGS with the intention of getting a gunsmith to do the build for me.
  
  
• Putted around youtube and looked at build process. I have negative amounts of mechanical aptitude, but felt confident I could do it.
  
  
• Had a couple beers, took all the parts and my ipad with a youtube lower AR build tutorial to my garage, and had a fully built and functional Colt M4 A3 civ in less than 30 min. Good feels. Tools needed: 1/8 hex driver, armorer's wrench, 440 channel locks. I had the channel locks and hex driver, just bought the armor's wrench for $15.
  
  Total cost for my Colt M4 A3'ish AR: 100 + 400 + 150 + 15 = $665.
  
  So I get that you may not feel up for a build, but let me tell you: If I can do it, anybody can do it. With the parts I ordered, it was less than 30 min build time and at no point did I ever feel out of my (not very deep) depth. Plus, it felt great to say, "I made dis." Even the not-so-into-my-gun-hobby wife was impressed.
  
  Also, as other's have said, you can still just buy a complete upper and lower, and still get more bang for the buck. But by picking up a stripped lower, it gives you massive flexibility of the final form of your AR and a massive cost advantage of being able to peruse the best deals on the internet without any need for FFL transfers. If you take your time and look for sells, you could easily save $100-200 from what I paid, or just get even better hardware.

The number of points refers to the inside gripping surface of the socket.

12 points is more “flexible” in how it can be attached, but 6 point is stronger. I would likely prefer strong in something that large.

One other thing to consider is the material the socketbis made from. “Impact” sockets are built strong to remove stubborn bolts.

Also for automotive applications i would usually buy a deep socket. Not a shallow one.

My choice in this situation would be:

TEKTON 47794 1/2-Inch Drive by 1-Inch Deep Impact Socket, Cr-V, 6-Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPXK2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kD3FDbC4SAP57

If your man’s friend can keep a secret, you might ask what he has in order to get exactly what he already borrows though. Similarly you can look at his current kit and buy the same brand/style.

Good job with a solid gift. I hope he gives you the same thought.

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

• The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  
• A decent multi-tool
  
• Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  
• Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  
• Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  
• A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  
• A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  
• Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  
• A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  
• Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  
• Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  
• Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  
• A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  
• Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  
• A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc
  
  Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

I just put together a tool kit for my BRZ, and I ended up getting a set of Tekton metric sockets and a Tekton low-profile 3/8s inch ratchet. I've used Tekton quite a bit and I found them to be pretty great. These metric sockets will cover just about everything on the car that can be loosened or tightened with a socket, and since they're deep sockets you can loosen lug nuts with them.

I'd suggest getting a breaker bar or torque wrench if you want to get an additional accessory. The breaker bar is great for loosening tough nuts, and the torque wrench is terrific for tightening a fastener to the exact amount of force it specifies in the manual.

If you really want to go above and beyond, an open ended wrench set (also metric) can be great for when a socket just won't fit. They even make a version with a built-in ratcheting mechanism

In summary, a metric ratchet set that goes from about 8mm to about 20mm is a great gift idea, and you can easily add on other accessories or wrenches if you want to make your gift a bit bigger. I can personally vouch for the Tekton stuff--sure it's not the most expensive fancy set of tools out there, but they look, feel, and work well.

Hope this helps!

I changed my tyres this weekend for a nice new seat of Michelin Road 5's. Got a guy to mount and balance them on the rims for 30EUR and figured I'd do the removal and installation myself.

It was a bit more of an adventure than I'd hoped...
Removal went fine, I just had to drive around a bit to find someone who sold a 17 mm hex socket to remove the front axle. I really dig the hoverbike look.

Issues came when reinstalling. Rear wheel went on easily enough but when I installed the front wheel and tried to remount my calipers one of the bolts snapped due to probably over tightening it (don't buy cheap long torque wrenches and trust that the lower values will be accurate). To remove the snapped bolt I had to take my front wheel out again. When I removed the broken bit I tried to remount the front tyre but my bike started slipping from the front paddock stand since it's a bit too wide and the bike was maybe shifting around a bit. Luckily I had a ladder and ratchet strap nearby to lift it a bit that way. Got a new bolt this morning and now i can finally enjoy these great new tyres.

Can you please link that Park tool torque wrench with small head because I was see only some wrenches like this I own.
I'm ok even with that wrenches with only one torque like 5Nm (I think I don't need maximum of 6Nm for my weight + carbon paste make great contact and I think 6Nm is too much).

I was contacted Wiggle support and their advice is this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK7341-Flexible-Extension-Adaptor/dp/B000WZA9EU

But it will be nice to see more options like that Park tool torque wrench.

No, the heavy duty ones are too harsh unless you do a lot of two up riding. If you always have your old lady on the back, the heavy duty ones are a good choice.

Get the 412, 13" ones for sure, and crank up the preload until the sag is right (it should be sagging about 1/3 of its total travel without you on the bike, just under its own weight. Remember that to see total travel, you need to jack the bike up until the wheels are just 1mm off the ground).

As for front springs, you don't NEED to do them, but if you care about handling and brake dive, a set of Race Tech springs will do an amazing job in the front. Its very easy to install them, you just need the 39mm front fork cap tool or this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XMYHOI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

You can swap the front springs without changing the fluid also, but you should change the fluid every 5 years or so.

Racetech has a calculator on their site that lets you figure out the spring rate. I weigh only slightly less than you, and I bought a .95Kg/mm spring and its perfect.

http://www.racetech.com/

Don't get the Progressive front springs, even though Progressive makes a fine rear shock, their front springs are, in my opinion, garbage.

Honestly? Patience is the big one. Pretty much any problem you'll have you'll be able to google and find someone else who's tackled it before.

Even when you know what you're doing, almost nothing ever goes smoothly or 100% perfect the first attempt.

You'll need an engine stand, engine crane, jack, stands, and a socket set and basic screwdriver set minimum for engine pull. There's also belt/chain removal/install tools and other specialty stuff that you'll have to look into on a case by case basis. You don't necessarily need to know how to weld or fabricate. Excellent skills, but not required.

Your biggest danger will be dropping something heavy or working with the high pressure lines (eg Air Conditioning). Your biggest help will be buying one of those Hanes repair manuals for whatever car you end up getting and reading through it. Be able to pop the hood without refering to the book and be able to identify all the various parts: intake manifolds, fuel lines, A/C lines, what all of your liquid reserveroirs are for, if it's Carb, TBI, EFI or DFI, spark wires, steering column, engine mounts, etc etc. Knowing what things are and where they lead is a huge help. So when you run into the inevitable "This fucking thing is in the way/not working", you'll at least know what that fucking this is, and be half way there to (safely) remove/replace/fixing it. Also know what the various fluids involved look and smell like. Is it wiper fluid, coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid or power steering?

A cordless drill with a socket adapter kit like this can make things go A LOT faster, especially in disaessembly. Just do initial loosen/final tightening by hand (especially for stuff that needs a fairly specific torque spec), but using it to blow through the first 90% of the thread saves a lot of time.

Tekton, Sunex and Grey Pneumatic source sockets from Taiwan and are generally ranked in that order but all are very good.

As an aside, Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company is the world's largest contract chip maker (for Apple, etc.) and has the most advanced technology in the world. Hand tools are a little easier to make ;)

Here are some options:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2-Inch-Impact-Socket-6-Point/dp/B000NPR34S/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524240962&sr=1-6&keywords=tekton+impact+socket+set

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2641-2-Inch-Standard-6-Point/dp/B002MWBOHW/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524241595&sr=1-12&keywords=sunex+impact+socket+set

https://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-1319D-Length-Fractional/dp/B0002SRASK/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SRASK&pd_rd_r=7CE6KD9NV2DY9774BNJS&pd_rd_w=geFPf&pd_rd_wg=sovSu&psc=1&refRID=7CE6KD9NV2DY9774BNJS

Use the link at the bottom to remove the drive.

http://blog.laptopmag.com/how-to-replace-your-macbook-pros-hard-drive-with-an-ssd

Buy a usb enclosure. Something like this from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/COCO-External-2-5-Inch-Enclosure-Laptop/dp/B00JA57BE4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1396814971&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hdd+mac+caddy

Go to an apple store or friend that has a mac. connect the usb drive.( be sneaky at apple store by leaving the drive in a backpack and only connecting the cable.)


instruction for a mac
Follow the instructions bellow to wipe the drive.
The info below is quoted from another source.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disk Utility defaults to basic formatting -- to ensure that all data is wiped, select Security Options from the Erase tab and move slider to the right (in older versions there were options of zeroing the HD once, 7 times or IIRC, 21 times instead of the slider).

Moving the slider furthest to the right gives the most secure erase but takes absolutely ages to complete -- still, worth it to preserve your privacy.

If I ever sell my Mac Pro I shall simply install a brand new HD, format it with Disk Utility and install the removed HD in an external case. £50 for a 1TB HD is better than secure erasing/formatting in my view -- YMMV.
---------------------------------------------------

If you have access to a windows machine use one of the packages from this article to zero the hdd

http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/five-apps/five-hard-disk-cleaning-and-erasing-tools/

Seems like a Torx Plus? only smaller?:

http://www.amazonsupply.com/otc-6191-square-drive-socket/dp/B000O846UI

Then there are these:

http://store.snapon.com/TORX-174-BIT-SOCKETS-C795503.aspx

Hope these help in some way. All the best in your quest.

I don't do to much lighting, but I find the Super Gator Grip real handy. Its perfect for the square bolts and the set screw on the side of the clamp. I also use a 1/2" gear wrench if I need to adjust the bolt that attaches the instrument to the clamp.

With the Super Gator Grip I permanently Locktite'd the socket to the ratchet handle to prevent it from separating when using it. It might not the best for at height work as its tricky to safety tether.

If corded electric, make sure it’s unplugged, or remove the battery if it has one.

If you’re having trouble with the bolt, hit it with a bit of PB Blaster (also available at Walmart and auto parts stores) and let it sit for a bit. That’s a far better penetrating oil than WD-40.

If it’s still stuck, have a friend hold the blade while you crank on it with a wrench that has a longer handle, or put a pipe over the wrench you’re using (a “cheater bar”).

If that still fails, it’s time to buy an impact wrench/driver and a set of impact sockets. Never pass up an opportunity to buy tools! If you’ve already got cordless power tools from another brand, you can likely find an impact wrench that takes the batteries you’ve got. I just happen to be a Bosch fan.

Also, make sure you’re using the right size wrench. You don’t want to round off that bolt.

Someone mentioned jamming wood under the blade to hold it still while you’re wrenching on it. That seems like a fine idea.

Wow! Hold up... no dis intended. I admit I am struggling to see your vision here but i dont mean any personal insult at all.

​

>Hue doesn't run an esp chip. Coin cell motion sensors don't run esp chips. This forum is about esp chips and among other things extending their functionality in interesting ways.

​

I only brought up hue and the motion sensors (I actually DO use motion sensors connected to ESPs for this btw in 3D printed cases that hang nicely on my wall and can be interfaced with my home assistant server but thats beside the point I suppose) as an alternative because the ESP does not seem like the ideal use case here in terms of making a combined...thing. Im still hung up on how it would be efficient in a socket adapter however your comment maybe brought up that we are possibly not talking about the same thing. You mentioned in your other comment that Sonoff made a socket adapter and no i had not heard of that so i went to look and i see THIS being called a socket adapter but what I have been picturing is THIS so maybe we are not discussing the same thing here.

​

Adding the sensors at the outlet level would make a little more sense to me but I would still question how to find a right balance for triggering the PIR sensor to turn the light on as depending on what room it was in there could be a lot interference with that from normal foot traffic, furniture, etc that I would worry would get in the way. Also temperature sensors are usually mounted on the center of a wall in a central location in the room to maximize the chance of getting an average temperature for the space. Putting it at the floor level would make it less accurate since it would likely be cooler or warmer closer to the floor depending on the house but that would be very dependent on the location.

​

EDIT: Nevermind found THIS. I was not aware Sonoff made these.

Thanks ! I saw some SK but they didn't look readable enough to me. I found these Craftsman that are "easy read" (cool!) and looks like they're USA made !

Apparently you can get a less quality one(?) with free prime shipping for $189.00 US. I'd say you got a great deal!

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5777MT-1-Inch-Socket/dp/B00BU4P44C

So I replaced one of my knuckles years ago and I suspected something wasn't quite perfect. I usually replace pads or rotors separately as they wear out so the issue showing itself in the form of uneven thickness wearing of the rotors (commonly mislabeled as "warping"), took a long time to appear if at all. But this summer I went on a road trip and put brand new rotors and pads on at the same time, stretching the calipers/slides to their max. By the end of the trip, the front right had noticeable dust buildup and there was steering shake under braking.

I've been accumulating tools for a while so it was time to tackle this without replacing the hub.

Tools I used:

• Dewalt DCF890B Impact plus rare 21mm deep 3/8 socket made removing and installing the lugs over and over easy. A bit of lube on the threads helped too. I opted for the slightly larger 21mm socket over the 13/16" because it fits the lugs on the Miata better.
  
  
• Fowler 72-520-757 Rotor and Ball Joint Gauge Set
  
  
• Ampro T29771 1/2 ratchet my go to breaker bar, which I can fairly accurately torque things to ~90lbs by feel.
  
  
• NAPA 3 thousands shim or NAPA 6 thousands shim you can get these several places but I wanted to be able to easily return them if needed. I used the 6.
  
  
• Gorilla 70027B (12mm x 1.25 thread)(21mm or 13/16" external) open ended lugs
  
  Most of my purchases were through Amazon Warehouse Deals and I paid 50% - 70% list price, some times with the help of camelcamelcamel.com