(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best internal tv tuner & video capture cards

It won't work. The USB port is only for power. It's no different that one of the wall warts that you use to charge your phone. You need create an actual digital signal with an analog to digital. Something like the link I've provided will do this. However, you still have a problem. The phono stage is in the speakers and there is no analog output out of the speakers other than the subwoofer connection, which is likely passed though a crossover to eliminate the higher frequency signal. So you'll still need a phono stage as the one you are currently using is unusable. There are digital plug-ins for Audicity that correct the equalization, but a signal boost is still recommended if you want higher fidelity. If you are only creating MP3 files, you may not need higher fidelity. But I am going to tell you straight out that his is big mistake. Creating what are commonly called needledrops is a task that is time consuming. You have to create a wave file while you are recording. The wave file can be edit as you see fit. Commonly most people remove clicks that are recorded. The absolute last thing done is in this process is creating the final compressed file like MP3 or FLAC. FLAC is lossless and the wave file can be recreated exactly from the compressed file. MP3 is lossy and conversion back to the wave form is close, but, it's not an exact recreation; some fidelity will be lost. If you go through all the effort to create an MP3 file, there is no going back. If you want higher fidelity, you have to redo the needledrop process. If you create a FLAC file from the needledrop, it's a fairly quick process to create MP3 files for portable devices. There used to be a good reason for MP3. Storage was expensive 20 years ago. Nobody had 1TB drives. Today we have faster SSD that you can buy 1TB for about $100. Or if you don't need that kind of speed, there are external HDD that cost about $50 for 2TB of space. An album at CD quality is less than a GB, so 1 TB will hold over 1000 albums. Honestly spend $50 for the 2TB external drive and create FLAC files. It's not worth your time if have to redo your efforts at a later time, for $50. Honestly what's your time worth. Most people wouldn't work for less than $10/Hour. This is 5 Hours of paid work, you would be trading thousands of hours in your free time. I've created needledrops, you are actually really quick if you can do a single album in 1 hour. It can be done, but, more than likely, it will take at least 2 hours per album. The quick way is multi-tasking, by doing your editing while recording the 2nd side of the record. But, this doesn't allow you enjoy your music while the recording is happening. I actually decided the rewards of creating needledrops didn't outweigh the time it took create them. I spent hundreds of dollars on sound cards and other equipment to create them and I still came to this conclusion. So my recommendation is to go ahead and buy the item I've linked below, it's cheap. Do a few needledrops with the plug-in. After that and you still think it's worth your time, spend money on better gear.

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITNOW-Capture-Grabber-Cassette-Converter/dp/B079CBGDST/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=analog+to+digital+audio+converter+usb&qid=1573221028&sr=8-3

copy and pasted from an earlier post that got removed:

My capture card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074863G59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything is set up fine but the green LED on the card is flashing green and yellow back and forth when it's just supposed to be green. I supposed this was because I hadn't gotten any firmware for it, but when I typed in the URL the manual says is the update, it leads me to a 404. The source shows up on OBS but at 720p 30 fps, it freezes for about 10-20 seconds at a time and then plays about 2 or 3 frames just to freeze again. When changed to 480p, it doesn't seem to freeze but it's about 10 fps. I've watched and read reviews and they're positive, so this wasn't any scam. Could someone help me out with this? There's even a recent review on the Amazon reviews where the person apparently got it to work (complained about audio but that's a different matter). Thanks in advance, I don't know why it's not working!! Ugh!!

EDIT: Found out the card only flashes green and yellow when OBS is actually running the Video Capture Device and it's activated. When I'm not in OBS it's just a green light.

Of course! Here is an example with a small switcher: AW-HS50 In the specifications on that page you will see a listing at the bottom in the section called TALLY/GPI. As you see, it has 5 inputs and 7 outputs. The inputs can be assigned to do specific things on the switcher but the outputs/tally are usually assigned for a purpose (turn on the tally light on a camera or a multi-viewer, here is a video that goes over the setup on a larger, slightly out of date swticher), to turn on/activate when the source assigned to it has been selected on the program bus (larger switchers that have multiple program feeds with have the option to assign a source and program feed to use so you know which program feed went live with that specific source). You will have to dig into the manual for the specific switcher you want in order to set that up as most manufacturers do it a different way. When a tally is activated, it switches from being either negative to positively charged, or positively to negatively charged. This wire is then connected to another system that can take in this boolean value (on or off) and then assigned to a specific function on that system. Here is an example of what I meant by a GPIO USB device. With all of this being said, feel free to jump to my TLDR if you don't care.

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TL;DR

As others have said, just get a PCI capture card and set the inputs into OBS. Should be a lot easier and if you really want a physical switcher, just get some device that you can assign the buttons to keyboard shortcuts and then assign those shortcuts in OBS to change sources.

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Hope this helps and feel free to reach out with more questions. I don't mind.

/u/zoxes1 pretty much covered most of what you need. As they mentioned, you will need a capture card to get your trakor (DJ laptop) display to your streaming laptop. I use something similar to this as a capture card for my GH2 camera. It works well enough until I get a PCI-e capture card. Run your DJ laptop into that via the laptop's HDMI out and mirror the display.

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If you don't have the budget for a capture card right now, I'd skip the traktor display for the time being and focus on the camera and audio interface. For webcams, the Logitech C920 is the go-to standard, just know they look best with lots of light. I would definitely recommend a USB mixer or some other interface for getting your audio from the Xone to the streaming computer. You could go with the line-in, but generally laptop audio components are pretty crappy and from my testing with using the line inputs on my desktop and laptops, the quality is not ideal. I use this mixer but there are some smaller ones. Just make sure it has a USB interface.

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What are the specs of your streaming laptop? CPU most importantly, but RAM and GPU (if it has a discrete one)? What are you using for speakers? The next challenge is figuring out how to monitor your audio without latency. Either run your speakers out of another output on your Xone, or you'll want a USB mixer/interface that will let you monitor without having to listen to the playback from the computer as you will have latency that way.

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I've been streaming DJ'ing on Twitch on and off for about 2 years now. I'm not a huge streamer by any means, but there is a great music community. It's nowhere near as toxic as some parts of Twitch, and is relatively small, so once you 'meet' a few people, it sort of spirals out from there. My biggest problem with Twitch's music/creative category is there are too many of the 24/7 'radio' (think: lofi/instrumental hip-hop beats for study/sleep/relaxing) streams.

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Alright so here's some stuff to get you started.

Blue snowball microphone.

AGPTEK MyPin capture device.

Both of these are "budget" solutions but should perform just fine for your needs. It's your call if you want to get a mic arm but I would suggest one, along with a pop filter.

The capture device should interface with OBS Studio without any major problems. It's a bit on the "no frills" side but from what I can gather it's still a pretty solid option.

Just be aware that you may run into HDCP issues with the Switch, where the capture device will refuse to accept the video stream. If that happens, you can just run the signal via a cheap HDMI splitter and it will take care of that.

1. Having an AMD GPU used to be a huge pain on Linux. These days it's the opposite - the best drivers are built into the kernel, so you don't have to do anything to set it up. I have a 290X, and the experience has been good for me lately (it wasn't when I first bought the thing 3 years ago, but, like I said, things have changed).
   
   
2. Another user referenced a thread where someone reviewed some of these. Here's the thread. Tldr, probably just get this one. I don't know what kind of editing software would come with the card; probably best to just use kdenlive or something for that.
   
   
3. I have no experience with m.2, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
   
   
4. What kind of info are you looking for? It's a little like asking for info on Windows; it's a very broad question.

This is the one that I bought. Granted, you could tell this is a knockoff... it didn't come in the best packaging and the manual is google translated, but it works like a champ! I haven't exactly fiddled with anything above or below 1080p, but it does show that it can support a myriad of resolutions in Windows (listed as a monitor).

> I personally avoid bringing up WINE in here even though its related to Linux and gaming, there is a sub for that and VFIO.

We're a mixed bag here. I've seen arguments on both sides for and against. In my opinion, if you're trying to game with a Linux host, this ought to be the place it's talked about. But again, as you stated, it's a personal opinion :)

Hi /u/happybandit - yes, you can do it for less than $4000 without fancy switchers or cameras, with just about any computer and a [$461 software suite called Wirecast for PC] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00305PQF6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00305PQF6&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) ([$496 for Mac] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YNW9O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0035YNW9O&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)) and their [free Desktop Presenter front end software] (http://dynamic.telestream.net/downloads/download-desktop-presenter.asp?prodid=desktoppresenter), as seen in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSTtXDn9k1I

I would get a couple of new shoulder mounted HD cameras, so you can handhold them comfortably if you ever need to. I recommend a couple of [Panasonic AG-AC8s for $1200 each] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00GCZ7MK8/?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&condition=new&creative=390957&keywords=Panasonic%20AG-AC8&linkCode=ur2&qid=1395752109&sr=8-1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Add a [$470 Blackmagic Decklink Duo] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041C7178/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0041C7178&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (they use a [Decklink Quad] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B3G1UO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005B3G1UO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) at Shiloh, but all you need is a Duo with two cameras), a couple of [$140 HDMI to SDI converters] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EIR5CTU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EIR5CTU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), some SDI cable and a couple of [$125 AVTP Professional tripods] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XH6Y94/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007XH6Y94&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), and you should be ready to send out a high quality stream for less than $4000.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

Sorry, my last computer came in at $500 and had hdmi and vga output, so I figured that was one of the easier requirements... So I haven't researched this part of my search much.

How can I determine which laptops can output to two monitors? Do they need to have two outputs like that one? I'm fine with an adapter of some sort or something providing this functionality as well.

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Added: It looks like a simple usb -> dvi converter could do the trick on most machines? Or $200 of the budget could go toward something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Matrox-DualHead2Go-Digital-Edition-D2G-A2D-IF/dp/B000QRTHX8

Keep in mind that the HDHomeRun only receives digital signals. If you are getting the "free" cable that you don't need a box for you probably won't get all the channels with a HDHomeRun since some are digital and some are still analog.
I got an HDHomeRun, and while it works great, it only gets about 20 of the channels that my TV can see.
A hybrid tuner may be the best bet to get all the channels possible, something like this Hauppauge 1229 WinTV-HVR-2250

Almost sounds like you don't need to "stream" but you need to employ video capture. If you take a HDMI out from laptop A, plug it into a capture device, then hook it into laptop B, you will get near real time results. You will want to set Laptop A's dual monitor mode as 'duplicate' rather than 'extended.' You might still have to run OBS but it would be on Laptop B and not Laptop A.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Cam-Link-Broadcast-Camcorder/dp/B07QKLFL74/ref=sr_1_4?crid=DIR5ELT8F5D4&keywords=cam+link&qid=1574009799&s=electronics&sprefix=cam+link%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-4

There is one service that offers low latency streaming, but it is expensive. It's around $55 a month and you max out at 2k bitrate. I setup an art education website that runs live art lessons and needed a way for students to talk to the teacher in real time, so I use this: https://www.wowza.com/pricing/streaming-cloud-plans/ultra-low-latency - it works great, but it doesn't sound like it's the right solution.

I use the https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Intensity-Capture-Playback/dp/B00U3QNP7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504671028&sr=1-1&keywords=Blackmagic+Design+Intensity+Pro+4K

Blackmagic Design Intensity Pro 4K

The reviews on amazon are a little misleading because it works fine now with all the updates.

these are the OBS studio settings I use

http://i.grab.la/07906-3321cb82-5318-4a0f-909d-1b55ab04f9ac.png

when I first set it up I was trying to use video capture device to find the blackmagic card, and it would find it BUT it was just a black screen so on OBS I switched it to what you see in the screen shot where it shows you it as a blackmagic device.

http://i.grab.la/07906-2f1e6b46-eed8-44a0-8bca-22d3f983dac3.png

I just use the auto settings so far they work fine.

these are my other OBS studio settings

http://i.grab.la/07906-30ff4b98-7011-4abe-ab60-e14e8bdd491c.png

http://i.grab.la/07906-76ff4810-45ea-4892-bf37-cd5674bddaa4.png

One other tip since its capturing the screen though the HDMI in the menus there is an option to turn off the UI on the place where you are capturing it.

Another tip : I noticed shutter speed doesn't matter so you can bring it up to where you get really nice ISOs you can play with the settings but I have noticed shutter speed doesn't matter while streaming though the HDMI, so in a some what dark setting I was able to push the exposure with out having any real effect on the videos look in terms of shutter speed.

One last tip : you can use any of the color modes while streaming and it will broadcast that color mode so you can set it to look the best since you probably wont be grading the footage you can do some minor color corrections in screen, and it will broadcast that.

you may already know all that but just throwing it out there for anyone trying to stream using a GH5.

If you are fortunate enough to have a Macbook that actually has something useful like a USB port, then you need a USB Capture Card

If you do not have a USB port, then you will have to research if there is a Video Capture Card that works for whatever connections you have on your computer.

You will attach the camera to the capture card with the Yellow (composite video), and maybe black port (audio), press record on the computer software, and then play the tape on the camera.

You will have to do all this in real time, so how ever long the tapes are - that's how long the transfer will take.

any of the magewell usb devices work great. a bit pricey, but they work. I previously owned the 1080p60 one listed below, and upgraded to one that accepts 4k60 and downscales it to 1080p60, however i cant recommend it because it only accepts 4:2:0 input and ive had trouble using it with an hdmi switch to swap between my pc and consoles all running 4k

a cheaper option a lot of people ive spoken to have said they had success with is the imillet.

1080p60 magewell:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A04436831T0I01CK11CNC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FMagewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle%2Fdp%2FB00I16VQOY%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1519395735%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26keywords%3Dmagewell%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA2LXBKOLL3J3K6&qualifier=1519395735&id=8563951593220564&widgetName=sp_atf

1080p60 imillet:
https://www.amazon.com/Imillet-Capture-USB3-0-Drive-Free-Windows/dp/B01M64EAX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519395783&sr=8-3&keywords=imillet

4k60->1080p downscale magewell:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N16ZM2M

Hi I have a Mag254 but Crown does not allow recording on 2 specific international channels. No catchup for these channels either. I have a spare Windows laptop. Would you know what software or hardware I would need to do a manual recording? This device looks interesting but then you need to add in the cost of external SSD and hdmi splitter: https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-EzRecorder-Definition-Recording-ER130/dp/B00LAP3GC8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1517963406&sr=8-14&keywords=Avermedia+usb#customerReviews

I messaged iptvking to see if either of the channels offer record or catchup so hopefully they do on Vader. The channels are either under Brazil or Portuguese:
Globo RJ or Globo SP and
Globo US

Thanks for any help!

An HDMI cable to VGA won't work (nor should exist) since they are different technologies. (and I am pretty sure your GFX card has no DVI-D passthrough)

You would have to get a DisplayPort (or Mini-DVI depending on what iMac you got) to VGA adapter, then use that with the ASC you mentioned to connect to the VCR's input.

You will also need a capture card to get the data back from analog to digital, which can be quite pricey for HD compatible ones. A simple one like this should be good enough.

I don't think the mods will let us even talk about things released today via the streamer who played today.

Edit: since I'm a dummy and only skimmed the OP earlier.

I would look into getting an HDMI capture card. So something like this: elgato 4k60

If you could get hands on one, there are models of the switch that have and sdi output on them. You can see them in the E3 footage and then use this to get the signal. Blackmagic Design DeckLink Duo 2 4ch SDI Playback and Capture Card BMD-BDLKDUO2

You would also need a PC with some kind of software like OBS. I would highly recommend epos vox for tutorials.

To get the video from that to your Mac you'll need a standard 3.5mm to dual RCA cable, ideally one like this. But you can probably use any old RCA audio cable sitting around and test it on a TV, with a 50% chance if guessing which side is video and which is audio on the first shot. It will be monaural, not stereo, so I think you use the Left audio input on the TV.

Then it's a simple video signal we can capture. What device works well with Mac is a question I'm not really qualified to answer, but I have a few ideas you can start with:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X42H9VZ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QCIBX8


Also if you are doing this as a one time conversion and don't need the capability going forward, Costco does VHS to DVD conversion for a decent price, but you have to be a member. After that DVD to a video file it pretty trivial on any machine with an optical drive.

Elgato made it as a DVR-like device that with the included software for the Mac could change the channel on your set-top box, and record TV on a schedule. It has Component inputs, and Composite/S-Video via breakout cables. It has hardware accelerated transcoding to H264 onboard and connects to the Mac using USB 2.0. Here’s the Amazon page for the product.

I’m just interested in using it for game capture and don’t care about the other features beyond hardware accelerated Component capture to H264.

I know a few methods to do this

1. If you have a Wii U (which supports HDMI) you can soft mod (link on how to do it) it to play GameCube games with a cheap capture card.
   
2. You could buy Wii component cables (they work on the GameCube) and record it with this capture card.
   
3. Emulate it on the pc with dolphin and use a GameCube controller adapter to play them with real GameCube controllers.

this one claims it supports HDCP

and given how "popular" ones like Elgato are, I would think they do as well

So you can start by using OBS https://obsproject.com/ to manage your sources. You can stream the sources to your server of choice using a guide on youtube. I can assist you later today on my discord if you'd like.

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The sources can be organized within a "Scene", which can be changed on the fly with pre-defined hotkey combos you set.

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An Elgato Stream Deck would indeed be a useful device to very quickly change to the scene you are looking for in an elegant way, and integrates into OBS.

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You can then use either 2 capture cards to send the scenes from the first two pc(let's label them)

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You have the Final Destination PC, (Webinar-PC), where you would send the sources from the Second PC(Software-PC) and the First (Presentation-PC.)

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The capture cards will be located within the Webinar-PC and you would send the output display into those to cards.

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Then within OBS, add two "Video Capture Device" sources and select each capture card.

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If you are only doing 1080P, you only need 1080P Capture cards. Any higher and You'll need a set of 4k capture cards.

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As for the cards themselves, you can use the Avermedia 4k card https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-GC573-Live-Gamer-4K/dp/B07DHSZC4K/ref=sr_1_5?crid=24SJC8MKYPOC5&keywords=avermedia+capture+card&qid=1558123394&s=gateway&sprefix=avermedia+ca%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-5

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or the Avermedia Ultra 4K https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-GC573-Live-Gamer-4K/dp/B07DHV47HF/ref=sr_1_5?crid=24SJC8MKYPOC5&keywords=avermedia%2Bcapture%2Bcard&qid=1558123394&s=gateway&sprefix=avermedia%2Bca%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-5&th=1 if you don't have a free PCI-E card; though using these will need access to a USB 3.1 (Gen 1) Type-C port on the Webinar-PC

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If you do not have that, you can use a https://www.amazon.com/Warmstor-Adapter-Converter-Support-Charging/dp/B073H1QVJZ/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=type+c+to+type+a+3.1&qid=1558123593&s=gateway&sr=8-20 converter.

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You do need to be aware of the USB bandwidth in that case, however. 4k raw footage exceeds the data throughput of 3.1 gen 1, and requires USB 3.2 Gen 2 2x2 speeds(20Gbps) as it can get up to 14Gbps. Or firewire.

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If you only need 1080P https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Multi-Card-Low-Latency-Pass-Through-GC570/dp/B06XRF732W/ref=sr_1_3?crid=24SJC8MKYPOC5&keywords=avermedia%2Bcapture%2Bcard&qid=1558123758&s=gateway&sprefix=avermedia%2Bca%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-3&th=1

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And USB https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Multi-Card-Low-Latency-Pass-Through-GC570/dp/B00005141S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=24SJC8MKYPOC5&keywords=avermedia%2Bcapture%2Bcard&qid=1558123758&s=gateway&sprefix=avermedia%2Bca%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-3&th=1

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As for your Camera, What kind of camera are we talking about? Webcam? DSLR? Mirrorless? Depending on the type depends on what you need.

You can use a Hauppauge tv tuner (Example: http://www.hauppauge.com/pages/products/data_hdpvr2.html) but it will need to be connected to a computer which is what you record to (i.e. it doesn't have a physical hard drive like a DVR does). Advantage of this option is that it has an IR blaster so you can set it to record a specific show at a specific time and it will change the channel on the box to record that show.

Otherwise you could look at something like this that was would record to a USB drive or an external hard drive plugged into -> https://www.amazon.com/DIGITNOW-Capture-Converter-Recorder-Support/dp/B074FW63JJ/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3U1RXY66XMNEE&keywords=hd+recorder&qid=1566155844&s=gateway&sprefix=hd+recor%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-10. Main disadvantage is that you have to manually record the show, i.e. you need to be there to start the recording when the show is playing.

For now, you can still you wmc (windows media center) and get free guides. this is built into win7, it can be added onto win8/8.1, and can be hacked onto win10. if all you want is dvr it does a good job. I currently use wmc as a backend and kodi as a frontend. I haven't had any problems with rewind/fast forward, and i'm doing everything legally. for ota check out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E2T6Y4/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
you'll get two tuners per card, and add as many as you want.

My capture card has HDMI, which captures audio and video from the camera, but I would like to capture a 2nd audio source from my Tascam as well.

EDIT: This is my capture device. It does not have a separate audio in

I'm not sure about your cash situation, but one thing I've used for multiple monitors is a box called Matrox, I'm using DualHead2Go, but they do up to 4 monitors. These can be pricey though for example this.

Double check on the back too and just make sure there isn't an additional HDMI or Display Port (looks like a cross between HDMI and E-SATA) that you've overlooked.

Are you trying to capture video? It really depends on your setup.

If you're running a genuine old DOS pc, you'll need a capture card with a VGA connection and another modern PC along side.

If you're running a modern PC and playing DOS games through DOSBox, you can use something like FRAPS to capture the footage like any other game, or the built-in video capture function of your video card.

Just get one of these. It's overkill to just play a game on your iMac but it's cheaper (if you get a refurbished or renewed one) than an HDMI <-> MiniDisplay converter thing and then you can record your gameplay if you really want to.

Edit: The HD60 S ^ up there can also be connected to a TV at the same time if that's something you care about. Another option (also from Elgato) is this. I have read some reviews that the Cam Link has less lag than the HD60 S. I have an HD60 S and do not notice any lag so take that for what you will.

Here is how to get video from your computer to your vcr or whatever uses the rca style video hdmi to av
and then you need a video to usb plus a program to get the video off tape and make it digital av to usb. Some other notes. If you have PC get the PC version and I think Windows is pretty lenient with screen sizes to you can display to a 4:3 tv monitor. For Mac I had to use a program called switchresX to set custom screen sizes.

DIGITNOW USB Audio Capture Card Grabber for Vinyl Cassette Tapes to Digital MP3 Converter, Support Mac & Windows 10/8.1/8 / 7 / Vista/XP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079CBGDST/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SAIGDbKVQXFN1


This is a digital capture card for cassettes, vinyl players, all that jazz. Hope this helps OP.

black magics are great cards. I've used a few professionally.
This one is very reasonable :
https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Intensity-Capture-Playback/dp/B00U3QNP7Q/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00U3QNP7Q&pd_rd_r=67GFEQSM7DRG4PZQHJ42&pd_rd_w=bpa88&pd_rd_wg=rHoPM&psc=1&refRID=67GFEQSM7DRG4PZQHJ42

It's getting harder and harder to find splitters that strip HDCP. I tried several that were reported to work as of a year ago, but didn't work for me. At one point getting really annoyed with the situation put an HDMI to component converter in the path which did remove HDCP but at the cost of image quality. The best solution I've found is to just use a capture device that doesn't care about HDCP. https://amazon.com/ClonerAlliance-Passthrough-Commentary-Latency-Camcorder/dp/B07FF52DT4 - I'd say grab a ClonerAlliance Flint 4KP now before they go away.

I've been doing bit of research and came across this card here: DeckLink Duo Which sounds like it features a fair amount of stuff that will suit a start up to YouTube service for them.

I just got this from Amazon the other day. Has Linux support, handles 1080p@60, and is just $150. Works well, though it does get a bit hot.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M64EAX6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_EJJ1KcKKWXEAV

You could use a USB capture device and record it on a free program like VirtualDub in full frame AVI with no compression. However one movie would be a couple hundred GB. This one worked for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049BE3TA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah sure thing. This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-USB-Video-Capture-Card/dp/B01IEW70KI

Do you guys think the Intensity would be better than getting this from EyeTV http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-EyeTV-Satellite-Macintosh-10021040/dp/B003MVYTBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393878478&sr=8-1&keywords=eyetv and then using this cable to make it work with HDMI http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QWH4QA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=13BNMENWA9NB3&coliid=I35LFKT4S6JBVC

What i'm looking to do is connect the Apple TV to the box (either EyeTV or Intensity) and watch/record the video on my Mac.

Oh for under $100 you're gonna be looking at those chinese-brand ones.

I have no experience with it (I use an epiphan av.io HD) but this one seems to get mostly good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/MiraBox-Loop-out-Streaming-Recording-HSV321/dp/B07C6KCBYB

I bought a already made up kit on Amazon called VHS-2-PC. It just seems super cheap. The guy is no help, I want to use VirtualDub because of more choices with how you can capture and stuff and he's telling me to install a very simple basic crap looking application. I told him I don't want to use this and can he just help with VirtualDub as that was the alternate version he put in the instructions but he keeps pushing it on me.

Here:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Video-2-PC-Capture-Windows-Camcorder-transfer/dp/B0049BE3TA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=vhs-2-pc&qid=1562418392&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

if you can figure out how to power it...something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LAP3GC8?ref=emc_b_5_t&th=1

will record DVR footage at 1080p @30fps, and you could record directly to an SSD...in order to get it to start recording, you could wire up a relay to the botton then wire the relay to a servo switch...

or you can look into a Connex downlink system which can stream at 1080p @ 60fps, and record off your ground station...

Thoes are the only 2 ways I can come up with if you want to retain the HD aspect...

The AverMedia Live Gamer Ultra supports 4k@60fps and HDR passthrough, but is $250 on Amazon.

AVerMedia Live Gamer Ultra (GC553) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHV47HF/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008FK5NOA/

And

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=171629247163

Bam! £29 to watch VHS and download it to PC. With old VHS selling for like 50p each, you could get a lot of movies.

So... you need something like http://www.amazon.com/Video-2-PC-Video-Capture-Windows-Vista/dp/B0049BE3TA
?

If your cameras still work, and your laptop works, the above should let you plug the camera into your laptop via USB and copy the tape contents over.

This is the cheapest device that will do 1080p @ 60fps capture.

But if you want quality and/or mic input available as well, then you will need to look at more expensive devices.

The Elgato HD60s is the standard for new streamers/uploaders

If you mix JayTurners idea, and metsubos idea, you can have a solution that works.

Here's what you need for metsubo:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Capture-Grabber-Broadcast-Nintendo-Camcorder/dp/B07HK5NTL8/

But this is all probably too expensive and complicated for a slightly bigger screen.

Your best options are devices like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Multimedia-Capture-Device-VC500MAC/dp/B007QCIBX8

https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Video-Capture-analog-iPhone/dp/B0029U2YSA

The problem is that just about every device I have used has a 1-2 second processing delay, so any game that isn't turn-based will give you trouble playing it, because what you see on your screen happened 1-2 seconds ago. You won't see the result of your button press for 1-2 seconds.

Such devices were intended to watch TV and movies on your computer, from a DVD or VHS player. Things like that don't matter how delayed the video is. Ones for gaming are more expensive to not have the processing delay.

Yeah, you were right to begin with. If you ever are in the market for a capture card, consider something similar to this for maximal device compatibility (if it has an HDMI port, it'll stream).

Does everything that you said above about the DeckLink model also apply to their Intensity model as well? I kind of like the idea of having an HDMI pass-through, plus I don't know anything about "SDI Video" interfaces.

I also see a non-4K model of the DeckLink, does most of what you said about the 4K model (save for the 4K part) apply here too, or is the ~$50 saving not really worth it in the long run?

I'm not a fan of Shadowplay (primarily Nvidia's software limitations).

At 1080p60 using 50,000 Kbps (highest), I was still getting blocky recordings (bit-rate not being high enough) during any relatively fast motion (BF4 and CoD footage looked awful). I jumped over to OBS using NVENC with 65,000 Kbps bit-rate and that fixed the issue. If you can bump up the bit-rate more, do it.

This only fixes the issue in the recorded file, not Youtube trashing it (if that's what you mean).

The only other 4k option (that I know of, besides GPU) is to use a capture card (usually in a separate pc) like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Imillet-Capture-USB3-0-Drive-Free-Windows/dp/B01M64EAX6

It’s a offbrand magewell and a 150 dollars cheaper. Just plugs and plays with a Mac or a pc.

I bought this for streaming on linux not too long ago:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6KCBYB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure where you draw the line at cheap, but it's solid, works with OBS, and records at 1080p 60fps

I'd recommend getting a cheap capture card, like this one. I use this one to record just in case the game glitches, or the AI does something stupid.

If you can't afford it I'd suggest a few things to make it look better. If you can, move the TV to a room with small/no windows and have the lights off. If you can't, I'd tape some blankets to the windows or something similar to block out the sun, it is your enemy. This will make the screen more visible. Also, taping your phone/whatever you use to record down to a stack of books, wood, b r e a d, will help keep it straight on the screen.

uh, there's a 4K capture card that costs $10 more than that thing. Price is a bit steep for just 1080p.

There's the Intensity Pro 4K.

http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-EyeTV-Satellite-Macintosh-10021040/dp/B003MVYTBU

Anybody think the AGPtek will work?

MYPIN HDMI Game Capture Card USB 3.0 HD Video 1080P 60FPS, Live Streaming Game Recorder Device Compatible with PS4, Xbox One,Wii U etc, Windows Linux Os X System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074863G59/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_htqkDb6MJ2GSH


Or on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162744717369

I feel so stupid, I could've just got this.... https://www.amazon.com/MYPIN-Capture-Streaming-Recorder-Compatible/dp/B074863G59/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1526939165&sr=8-16&keywords=elgato%2Bcapture%2Bcard&th=1 Seen it all on my computer too. smfh It would've costed me the same amount of all the extra bs materials I had to buy.

I'd imagine by using this sort of monkey: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Video-2-PC-Capture-Windows-Camcorder-Transfer/dp/B0049BE3TA/

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.tomsguide.com/amp/us/avermedia-live-gamer-4k-capture-card-pricing,news-30210.html

First external 4k HDR 240fps capture card

Can also look at this one. Which is currently available

https://www.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Live-Gamer-Ultra-GC553/dp/B07DHV47HF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=external+4k+capture+card&qid=1570917679&sprefix=external+4k+ca&sr=8-3

Been thinking about this converter cable

Quick and dirty way: Point a webcam at the monitor.

Better way: Get this capture device to plug the computer into and use it as a source in OBS.

Not sure, but the Black Magic Intensity Pro 4k might be what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U3QNP7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481999259&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=blackmagic+intensity+pro+4k&dpPl=1&dpID=51EUQWGbAuL&ref=plSrch

I've got this one, it's never given me any real trouble. Decent quality.

You can get an HDMI->USB adapter (not USB->HDMI) that captures video in real time and displays it on screen. But the ones with any sort of reasonable quality/performance are rather pricey:

real deal:
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Capture-Video-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY

knockoff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M64EAX6

budget: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0QZMPE

Plus there is the HCDP stuff to deal with for movie content which is a big pain.

I was definitely rocking all of these things!

It’s hard on mobile but I’ll add the specific links for you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M64EAX6/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZUH6QUG/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0149N8JK6/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IV69AG/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IHLKZ0I?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

I got these all for reviews and more but I’m lazy. I got some from groups, some from emails, and some from more people. My account was put on review restriction a couple months following the code era and into the PayPal era. PayPal was much harder for amazon to deal with.

Unfortunately none of those setups would work.

You need a "USB Capture for Mac" device. (Even though you're not actually capturing video, you'll be monitoring it)

I can't myself recommend this device but people have said it works in the reviews.

I've personally purchased and use the Elgato Game Capture and it works fine.

Keep in mind with any of these systems there is some amount of lag (analog to digital conversion & video processing that takes place) so using your iMac as a monitor for a game capture when quick decision making is life or death can be frustrating.

Most colleges have some kind of common space with a TV setup. And most students bring game systems and leave them in the common rooms.