(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best internal usb port cards

Read my name.

Now read it again.

PCI-Evangelist and PCIe-Vangelist works both ways.

I know my PCIe expansion stuff, and while the majority of people yes, do discount the ODD bay aka 5.25" bay as being useless (since they "know about computers" but don't know of/think of/bother to be curious about expansion possibilities for a "useless" bay.) there are plenty of people who still have their ODD Bay from another case which then put in fan controllers, NZXT Sentry3 is a popular one, ICY DOCK is a popular adapter to storage, Lamptron even makes a fan controller that can support the Delta PFB1212UHE-f00 which is very hard to find on Amazon, PCPP, and Newegg is hit and miss at times.

As for USB-C being mainstream, I know your sentiment (I think.) and all I'm going to say is PCMR is a circlejerk for new technologies so much we don't even consider it new sometimes (like USB-C). Yes, it's in modern phones, but I still need to bring my own USB-A M to USB-C M everywhere I bring my phone since I'm not going to find many people using android phones who DON'T have USB Micro B.

With this being said, on most modern motherboards, not even high-end, you can get one easily with a USB-C port, and still, again, have FP I/O with USB-C, default on some cases, however imo, ODD Bay expansion still is a nicer solution sometimes.

Edit: You can pick up a Startech (yes, they are reputable btw, they might sound sketchy to new people who haven't ever heard of them, but they definitely work quite nicely, I own 3 of these expansion cards now and all 3 were plug-and-play.) for about the same price as a 1TB HDD. They aren't exactly expensive for how much they add to your computer, and some IMO more people need to think about getting one/some, HTPC it works nicely since the 1 internal USB can be used for wireless controllers/KB+M.

Newegg Link

Amazon Link

PCPP Link

Well let's look at the chips first. It's a bit confusing. The ASMedia 1142 is for type A/5 Gbps ports. However, it looks like the cards with 1 type C and 1 type A also use the 1142. The ASMedia 2142 is for type C 10Gbps. They both seem to come on cards designed for a PCIe x4 slot.

Those chips control 2 ports each and if you got a card with a 2142 you would need type C to type A adapters as well. The 1142 has great performance so I wouldn't necessarily avoid it even though the cards are older, since you just need type A connectivity.

So if you want the newest and best and money isn't so important, I would get a 2142-based card with two type C, and get Type C to Type A adapters. Such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PUSB31P2A-2-Port-Express-Adapter/dp/B07595W7TF/

and:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Adapter-Hi-speed-Black/dp/B01EL4PVFE/

If you want to keep it simple and get a card with two Type A, something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PUSB31P2A-2-Port-Express-Adapter/dp/B010PNUALA/

Also note that they suggest using the built in Windows drivers and not installing the ASMedia driver, for UASP support. This may not be true with subsequent updates to their driver.

Hope that helps some. You may want to search dedicated VR forums as this has certainly come up before. You might want to try comparable ASMedia cards from lower priced manufacturers than Ableconn, that's up to you.

I use these

I found a double molex to 6pin for one card. The rest I used the stock sata to 6pin cables, but no more than 2 risers + HDD per sata cable. I’ll probably trigger the bot by saying that, but my cables are cold to the touch.

As for the cards, I put the ones that require just one 8pin in the 750W side. Also running the mobo etc off the 1000W PSU.

You should have 3 sata and one molex with the G3. If you want to play it super safe, put one card on each. You just need one of these cables
I was lucky enough to find one in my cable collection box from 2002-present.

The only 19 Pin to 20 Pin USBC Front Panel converter we know of

Comined with this:

USBC Front Panel Male to USBC Female

Keep in mind every USBC port contains TWO high speed signal lanes, this will be used for USB 3.2 2x2 20Gbps (When it comes out) and currently used for alt mode.

It's far better to use actual USBC logic / chipset. The above adapter will only give you 900mA, and MAYBE BC1.2 of 1.5A. But a true USBC add in card (AIC) will give you 5V at 3A MINIMUM. a good one can do 9v, 12v,15v,20v all the way up to 20V/5A or 100W. On top of that there is alt modes, protection circuitry, a host of other things.

Just converting USB 3.0 19 Pin headers (2 USB 3.1 Gen 1 Ports) into a single front panel USBC gives the MINIMUM functionality. So it's practically pointless. The ONLY thing you are getting, is the ability to use a USBC to USBC Cable. Nothing else. If you are going to spend money, why use the onboard chipset, which is already saturated because you are using the other ports. Faster and better in every way to get a PCIe card.

Use one of these instead:

UGREEN USBC AIC like 20 bucks

This will get you 5V 3A Charging.

If you want full Power Delivery Profiles up to 100W, that's a tough story. Basically these days, people go with Thunderbolt 3 if they want PD 100W. If it's USBC, the only one I know of is OLD, and only works with SATA Express, which has been largely abandoned.

HERE

Cool... thanks for explaining!

I'm not really sure the difference between the two... in this picture: http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/13-157-271-02.jpg

My two open slots are the far right ones. You're saying that this card: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRB3XK0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A3LOPSTGBHQVT9 would be compatible?

Thanks!!

Edit: the 3 slots on the right, not the two on the right :) And if I can use one of those, should I leave a certain one or two open if I were to get another graphics card someday? :)

I ended up doing this and ran all 6 cards individually for over 10 hours without issue. Turns out all six of the version 007 risers I'd ordered were faulty! These were the ones I bought, best avoided if you ask me. I ordered 6 new version 008S risers from Amazon and the rig is now stable.

Thank you kindly for the help. :)

Op I bought this one and it works perfectly! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P2PNOJM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1524119419&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fan+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=41vZIonm3gL&ref=plSrch

10$ (and it looks good if you wanna use a 5.25inch bay at the front of your PC. Check out my account posts and you'll see I used it for my Yoo-hoo computer lol

Good thinking, actually! I've found this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Sedna-Adapter-External-Connector-controller/dp/B0196SQVFO

I'm gonna give the USB hub a try for a week, and once I overcome the laziness and check if I still have a free PCIE slot in my box return the hub and get this card. Unless you tell me yours is a completely different one :)

I'm assuming you have a TE 1 stick that was released in 2009? (http://www.amazon.com/Fighter-FightStick-Tournament-Edition-Playstation-3/dp/B001M25AY6) I used to have this problem until I bought a USB card and attached it to my computer

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IPXOWU?psc=1 (This card can read USB 1.1 - 3.0)

I think the stick is a USB 1.0, and my computer doesn't read USBs lower than 3.0, and cards like these did the job!

Good luck man!

I use an Arduino Mega because I have several of them laying around (thanks Reddit Secret Santa!)....but for this purpose, you could certainly get away with an Arduino UNO.

The software can be tinkered around with before actually purchasing to get a feel for it - it's free.

Don't let the electronics of it all scare you, a PC fan typically has only 2 wires. Power, and ground (or is called negative? IDK I am not an electrician) - which are inserted into the board where it's labeled '5V Power' and 'Ground'. Here is a picture of the MEGA board up close, you can see on the bottom left the pins I was talking about. It's rocket science, I know!

That's how you power the thing, and make it work without any programming at all.

To get the timing to work, take another look at this image and take not of the various pins on the right hand side. You would select one of these numbered pins [we'll use 13] and launch the IDE (Integrated Development Engine - in other words, the Arduino software).

Precompiled bits of sample code called are included with the software. For this example, we will need to load the 'Blink' example, and modify it slightly.

Blink in the menu - once loaded, you'll see the following code (take note that anything preceded with a '//' indicates a comment in the code...these are helpful, as they explain exactly what is happening at that particular line:

// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
// initialize digital pin 13 as an output.
pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
digitalWrite(13, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(13, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}

That's it - you click the upload button (assuming the device is hooked up to your PC) and you'll have PC fan that is powered on for 1 second, and is off for 1 second. Apply math to the:

delay(1000);

line to determine how many seconds are in the desired amount of time, and that's it.

It's incredibly easy to get started with Arduino - and once you dig in, you can add all sorts of fun odds and ends such as Humidity Sensors, Temperature Sensors, WiFi, Web Cameras, Servos (useful for misting bottles!) and even sensors which monitor CO2.

It's quite easy to access a tutorial about each specific item, for example: Humidity Sensor Tutorial.

The sky is the limit with Arduino, actually, on second thought - it is not.

I hope this helps, I've found Arduino to be an incredible tool in small scale cultivation. I even at one point had an air flow sensor hooked up inside of my SAB just to see how much air I was actually moving around, and that brought to my attention what actions I needed to pay extra attention to when working in the SAB.

Sensors are cheap!

LONG LIVE ARDUINO! (Raspberry Pi is another alternative, but is Linux based, and not as user friendly for folks who don't get it).

Please, comment with any questions.

Myc

> Oh really? Awesome.

While it might work, doesn't sound like something I'd want to do considering potential risks, especially with the card you describe further down this comment thread. I have no experience with doing such myself or enough electronical knowledge about this sort of thing to know of consequences other than I'd be too paranoid to do it.

There are safer alternatives like these x1 to x16 adapters without damaging your cards(great if you want to consider resale):

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Profile-Extension-PEX1TO162/dp/B0039XPS5W
https://www.amazon.com/Aadapter-Riser-Extender-External-Powered/dp/B019I4UPCG

Note those are just two results from google, they're not reccommendations that I looked into or anything like that, I've yet to use one of those myself.

So to be clear, you're suggesting:

1. A USB 3.0 to HDMI adapter like this
   
2. Something like this?

Thanks but thats not exactly what I am looking for.

I need an extender cable for this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/?coliid=I1FU5C24ONU82Y&colid=13TE5E6WBULF5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

On the case front panel is a USB C 3.1 port. The cable going from this port that plugs into the motherboard, well it goes into port that sort of looks like a sata\esata slot on the motherboard. You can see this on this add-on card. Newer motherboards have this slot on them.

My motherboard does not have this slot. So I need the add-on card. The problem is that the existing cable coming from the front panel won't reach the card. I was surprise I can't find an extender cable for this as not all manufactures put everything on the same spot for all motherboards. This is why you usually have all cables come from the the front panel on computer case...well they usually reach all way to the rear of the case.

Fractal did this with headphone, mic, and the USB 2.0 & 3.0 cables. However, with this USB 3.1 C GEN2 cable, it only reaches the front edge of the motherboard. So I need a female to male cable extender for this connector.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCFF2vujTv4

This will get you a closer look at what kind of cable extender I need.

Thanks

Update: Bought this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002VY53ZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Received it yesterday; didn't work; ports work fine; same issue as prior tho lmfao

Bought the PS3 / PS4 to Xbo converter by Brook on eBay for a cheap price; hopefully that'll be the ticket!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.TWYDbDHPPC43

This will be your best bet. I have seen cheaper converters, where you can change the gen 2 connection to gen1, but no splitters where you can use both.

There might be 3.1 splitters, then you attach an adapter to the one end of the regular splitter. But at that point you'll be getting pretty close to the price of just getting the pcie card. Also with the pcie card you can actually take advantage of the gen2 speeds, for only about $10 more after getting a bunch of adapters/splitters.

Have you considered an alternative? This project ( https://github.com/marcone/teslausb ) replaces the drive with a Raspberry Pi Zero W, which emulates a USB drive to the car. Then it uploads everything to a NAS over wifi when you're parked, clearing up space, and letting you access/backup videos more easily

I've got this board coming in, with a 3d printed case to make it super small: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK2BR6C/

The obvious awnser is to take a USB stick and ask for the powerpoint file at the end of the presentation.

If that's not possible though, then there are hardware screen recording solutions. It does depend on the setup at the venue, but generally what you'll need is a suitable video splitter and some kind of capture device plugged into another computer.

Be careful when buying capture devices for this purpose though - Check what resolutions and framerates they support. Ones designed for general videography will likely be no good unless the PC is set to output at a broadcast-standard resolution.

If that's not possible either, then a second camera locked off on the presentation will do the trick.

Oh, i meant the white edition of the case i was showing you.

Only amazon.ca has it right now as far as i can tell... and they want a pretty penny for it. Looks nice though.

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BTQAWH0

Ah okay, thank you. So something like this would be able to power USB-C peripherals, using the SATA power connector?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JGJ8J0I/

It sounds like the USB controller is on the blink so you'll have to buy a USB PCI adapter. If you have another computer that you can use, you plug your keyboard into that to make sure it still works. I'd also try to plug in other USB peripherals to make sure it's the USB and not just your keyboard.

From my understanding, while technically not needed, The RAMPS board simplifies the wiring, pinout assignments, and power management for 5 stepper driver boards to the point that the cost of a ramps and arduino mega from amazon are well worth it.

RAMPS from Amazon - $13 USD

Knock_Off Arduino Mega - $13 USD

RAMPS Wiki with Schematics, Wiring, and Pinouts

Yeah absolutely, anything you're going to build in 2019 is gonna have USB 3.0 out of the box, if not dedicated USB-C at 3.0 speeds.

If your motherboard doesn't have a USB-C port and you're really trying to go straight to USB-C without an adapter, you can buy a PCI-E expansion for $22 on amazon that will add a USB-C port and another USB-A 3.0 port :)

This might fit the bill just a bit better at $13. http://amzn.com/B008717L0G

I believe this is your best and most cost effective solution. http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=3

Was available here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FE726G/?ie=UTF8&tag=benchrevie-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B005FE726G but seems to be out of stock. Not sure where else you can get it.

I'm looking for a small form factor case like this link that will fit a full atx motherboard, any suggestions?

I ended up returning my card and just ordering a new one.

This is the one I ordered instead, and it worked perfectly after installing:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0H5WG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I’m a little late to the party but if you’re still looking for a solution, I found this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
Should work properly I believe.

This looks like a similar product on the US Amazon site:

https://www.amazon.com/MakerFocus-Raspberry-Required-Connector-Protective/dp/B07BK2BR6C/

It's got a front port (one 3.0, the other 2.0 sadly), all I'd need is this if I felt like bothering with it haha

What this will do is convert a USB 3.0 Mobo header to 2 USB 3.0 Female, this is used for cases that have only a USB 3.0 Male cord for the front panel ports.

If you don't have a USB 3.0 header on board, this won't work.

You're looking for something like this :

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999232

or

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Express-Internal-Connector-RL-EC03B/dp/B005FE726G/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1325375133&sr=1-5

Actually it doesn't say thunderbolt. It says USB-C for optimum performance or you can use a combination mini-display port w/ USB for display + data.

If your PC doesn't have USB-C then you will have to use the mini-display port + usb for connections. Most newer video cards will have a mini-display port in addition to HDMI video outs.

If you want to go the USB-C route on PC and your PC doesn't have USB-C on the motherboard then I think, but I'm not absolutely certain, that the PCIE cards with USB-C will work with the Cintiq. For example, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JGJ8J0I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=15WQ9Q344TVV1&coliid=I1EXEW8VITVLIS&psc=1

There are PCI-E cards for USB 3.0. Like this one.

Pretty sure someone at oculus even recommended a specific one from amazon, can't remember which one though. And even if you have enough USB 3.0 ports on your motherboard you're not safe, since a lot of USB host controllers don't support it due to latency and other issues, especially with earlier motherboards using the USB 3.0 technology.

you can use usb type c to pcie card...

like this

https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PU31-2C-2-Express-Adapter-ASMedia/dp/B07595W7TF/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539619959&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+type+c+pcie+card

You could also get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2PNOJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0vA3Bb7E8T1T6

It won’t be controlled my the motherboard though. It’s individual manual control

Just buy a PCI-E card for your PC with Type C ports like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JGJ8J0I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV/

Have you tried connecting the keyboard before booting, you didn't mention that if you did.

Try a different USB port if possible as well.

If you can't even use a PS /2 based keyboard, (I'm assuming you used the purple port right?) Then maybe you should start considering another PC. You might be able to get away with a PCI based USB expansion card.

Np. I got this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IPXOWU/

The ones in the cases might need the mobo's fan slot. You'll also need an external bay. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Controller-Individual-Controls-Independent/dp/B00P2PNOJM/

Yes, some USB expansion cards will have internal headers.

Here is an example of a conventional PCI card with 2 internal USB 2.0 headers.

If you have a regular PCI slot (not express) open then that card would work fine. I don't know of any non-usb card readers but they might be out there.

Thanks!

A couple more questions,

when you say hacked, do you mean hackintoshed or do i have to open terminal in green on black mode? ;)

http://imgur.com/Kru4xjr

And this

I already got it, but i can sell it on or give it away if it doesn't work

I was in your situation and picked this up last week. I don't have any USB 3.0 devices to try yet, but usb 2.0 devices are working fine. Only draw back for me was running another molex cable to power the card.

The cord for my front of case USB 3.1/C port is too short to reach the header way at the back of my case on a [pcie board] (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV/) .

Should I get a pcie extension and mount the card elsewhere? Or get a USB 3.1 header extension? (does such a thing exist?)

I know the USB C spec limits cable length, so I assume that applies here to?

> Nothing more than a PCI USB card.

I don't think that's true. OP's image is from this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Aadapter-Riser-Extender-External-Powered/dp/B019I4UPCG - it's not meant to be used alone. I think it uses the USB cable since those are easy to find and fit the need, but I don't think it has a USB controller built-in.

Not OP, but here is an Amazon link to what I've been using since I didn't want to do any soldering. (Raspberry Pi Zero W USB-A Addon Board V1.1).

That's too bad. Good to know, though.

Have you seen this?

It looks like what you need (no sound, though), but it's hilariously expensive.

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BB7TVMO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And it works fine on my T420 under debian.

Same price on Amazon right now: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2PNOJM

Your case have
> 1x USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C
1x USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-A

The type C cannot be used. The type A can be used with the (USB 3.0 / USB 3.1 gen1 / USB 3.2 gen1) header.

If you really want to use the type-C, and if the wire from the case is long enough, you can add this card:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV

I've ordered this card to give it a try: ORICO USB 3.0 PCI-E Expansion Card (PVU3-2O2I). It's $16 right now and has a 19-pin connector for the front USB 3.0 ports.

> N headers are voltage controlled, the 4th pin isn't even connected t

Noted. So which of the following would you suggest then to connect and regulate 5 case fans

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=s9_cartx_gw_g147_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=PRN1QX3Q7J7FH0J1NQDB&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=b21f7431-0e6c-4207-b08b-cc9492e60b0f&pf_rd_i=desktop

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2PNOJM/ref=twister_B00MAF5C4W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

how would you power the risers? I am using https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074P34647/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's most likely the chipset of your motherboard. From my research online, MadCatz TE2 sticks only work VIA chipsets. My current motherboard has an Intel chipset.

One option is to buy a motherboard with a VIA chipset.

Second and cheapest option is to buy this Rosewill usb 2.0 card.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004B0H5WG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462933211&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rosewill+4+port+usb+2.0&dpPl=1&dpID=41SCJWhemGL&ref=plSrch

Third option is to replace the mobo in the arcade stick with a PS360 or one of it's competitors.

If it doesn't register on your PC you can just use a VIA USB PCI card. http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-VIA-Adapter-Model-RC-103/dp/B004B0H5WG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407095184&sr=8-2&keywords=via+usb+pci

Pop it in and it will read your PS3 stick.

This was the first one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UK3X5CW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is the one I bought this morning:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/389226/4-Port_SuperSpeed_USB_30_PCIe_Host_Card

You can ads tons of ports if you have a pci-e 1x slot open. http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-PVU3-2O2I-Express-Internal-Connector/dp/B008717L0G

Yes

If you have space put in a usb 2.0 card. They are cheap as heck.

$12

https://smile.amazon.com/Rosewill-VIA-Adapter-Model-RC-103/dp/B004B0H5WG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467236136&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+2+card

Hmm... possibly. I'm thinking about trying this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Flush-ExpressCard-SuperSpeed-Adapter/dp/B00BB7TVMO

You can get a PCIe card. I have that case and card and I'm able to use usb-c.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LrQJDbZCDDT3S

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV

PCIe to the rescue!

PCI-E to USB 3.0

PCI to USB 2.0

PCI is not the same as PCI-E, choose the correct one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196SQVFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uPRVCbNWAY9TK

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV

Guess I'll just buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Sunshine-tipway%C2%AE-Port-Express-Power-Connector/dp/B00QRB3XK0

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Flush-ExpressCard-SuperSpeed-Adapter/dp/B00BB7TVMO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522165936&sr=8-4&keywords=expresscard+usb+3

http://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Converter-Motherboard-Connector/dp/B008IPXOWU

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Header-Chipset-Components-SD-PEX20122/dp/B007X26S8Q

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE

http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-Port-PCIe-internal-UGT-PC345/dp/B00CBNAP54

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Components-SD-PEX20139-Green-Metallic/dp/B00965J5UG

Plenty more if you look.

What I'm saying is, any of these boards will work with your printer, but you need a corresponding firmware, because the firmware is built per device. All the boards you're looking at are Arduino based, and are all meant to run Marlin or Repetier, which are just basic instruction readers. The thing is, these boards aren't bright. They have anywhere from 1280 to 2560 kilobytes of onboard storage. They run on piddly 8 bit processors, and I'm pretty sure their RAM is in the double, or maybe triple digits of KB. Even the crazy high end machines with 32 bit boards are running low level ARM chips with like, maaaybe triple digits of MB RAM. These things aren't supercomputers, and they don't run an OS like your phone or your computer does. They have firmware. Not "Firmware" meaning "Linux + some radio drivers" as Android's bastardized it to mean, but old school firmware. The kind that needs to be flashed in one go and stores any new variables in EEPROM.

So, basically, if you can find a copy of your old firmware, you're golden. Just buy a new TronXY Melzi 2, flash it over, boom, done. If you can boot the thing up via USB, and dump the contents of the EEPROM (assuming it has EEPROM enabled, not all of them do), then rewriting one shouldn't be hard. If that doesn't work, there's ways to get around it. But the long and short of it is, if you can find a copy of your firmware, get that board. If not, you can pick up one of these, and then one of these and we can hammer out a new spin of Repetier based on the settings you had in your old machine.

EDIT: Typo on the capacity of Arduino Mega boards.

The H510i comes with this connector for the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C front panel port, correct?

To connect that to your motherboard you need a header that looks like this.

Your motherboard doesn't have that header. According to the MSI X570 Gaming Edge Wifi manual (PDF warning) you only have two USB 2.0 headers and two USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers.

USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C headers are actually still very rare on motherboards, so it's kind of annoying that the Hx10i series cases all have one.

To use the front Type-C port on your mobo you'd need one of these:

• This Lian Li PW-INC1TR USB 3.0 to USB 3.1 Converter plugged into one of your USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers. It's relatively expensive because it's an active converter. There's some digital processing that it needs to do to convert the signal. Note that I'm not 100% sure that it will work plugged into your 3.2 Gen 1 headers, since it's designed to work in 3.0 headers, but it should theoretically work because USB is backwards-compatible.
  
  
• The other option if you don't want to use up one of the available mobo headers is this SilverStone Technology USB 3.1 Gen 2 Internal 20Pin Connector Type-C Port Header to PCIe Gen 3.0 X2. But the trade off for this one is it will take up some PCI lanes. (not a big deal if you're only running one GPU or other PCI devices that need a lot of speed)

You can plug the USB 3.1. Gen 1 from the Case into the USB 3.2 Gen 1 Connector on the motherboard, as long as the pins line up (the missing pin on the motherboard should be a filled space on the connecter)

For the Type C gen 2 connector, you may need this card (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV)