Reddit mentions: The best musical instrument accessories

Hey man,
Same thing happened to me a few years ago. I just started writing on paper with piano if I needed help with pitches. I'd write as many pages as possible and then put what I did on finale just to hear what I wrote. It seems like a good method because nothing really beats the formatting of a good notation program but as many of my Comp. Prof.'s have said, "Midi isn't real. It will trick you." I think that's the most important part of this whole process. Something you write on midi might be very impossible (or uselessly difficult). Also, feel free to bring some music to someone who actually play the instrument you are writing for and asking them to play through it. Most performers I know are always willing to do this if they aren't too busy already!

When I started composing microtonaly (year or so ago) this became an even bigger problem for me and I started having to rely on my ear and experimenting with different types of synthesizers to determine an approximate sound. It gets better as you write things out though. Just by working things out from your head to paper for a while you develop a stronger ability to compose without midi crutches.

Some benefits of doing this you might not have thought of:

1. When composing on paper you have the opportunity to see a line through without being controlled by bar lines or staff division (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEF4CG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use these). Often times I'll just compose rhythms and melodies without bar lines and then add them in later. This really helps me focus more on readability of a part (I've almost eradicated using too many time signature changes and my rehearsals/performances have gotten much better)
   
   
2. You get to really step back and look at the overall image of what you have done. Just open up to a sheet and observe the aggregate image (much more difficult on a program).
   
   
3. I get headaches looking at a screen for too long so if you have this problem this is great!
   
   
4. It's easier to transport music you are working on.
   
   
5. Composing can move faster because you aren't inhibited by changing note type and then clicking it into a spot etc.
   
   
6. You focus much less on making your score look nice.
   
   
7. You can interrupt a system with notes/visual representations of what you think might happen next (I use different shapes often)/commentary.
   
   Hope this convinces you this is a good idea.
   
   Make sure you have a strong hold on proper notation/orchestration (A useful resource - http://www.amazon.com/The-Study-Orchestration-Third-Edition/dp/039397572X, bit pricey though) And also, this site has been a miracle for me - http://www.music.indiana.edu/department/composition/isfee/. This will save you a lot of time.
   
   Best of luck! Also, just trust yourself and your ear. This stuff takes time, patience, and practice (like all things music).
   
   Edit: Some Trivia - many composers of the past (those without the miracle/curse of notation software) would just sketch things out and short hand things ("repeat this here", "ostinato bass" etc.) and then hand it to a publisher to put together when it was done. For example, Beethoven. I mean look at this crap - https://www.google.com/search?q=beethoven+hand+written+music&client=firefox-a&hs=fUD&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=8kpKUqyCL4fi2AXV0YGQBA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1600&bih=701&dpr=1#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=MP65Ypeh4KL_nM%3A%3B-WsvncUQEMICJM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fclassicalmusicblog.com%252F2007%252F09%252Fimages%252Fmvt1-facsimile-s.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fclassicalmusicblog.com%252F2007%252F09%252Fbeethoven-sonata.html%3B580%3B463. Think of the notation software as your robotic publisher. That's what I do.

I highly recommend 100 Authentic Blue's Licks.

However, the book assumes you know how to do a lot of advanced moves: tongue block chords and solid bending technique. I suggest you pick it up as soon as you can do F (2''), F# (2'), Bb (3'), A (3''), and Db (4').

Once you get those bends down, you'll be able to play ~30% of the licks in the book. Then you get Tongue Block chords to get another 20% or so. You can play the tongue-block versions without tongue blocking (just play the highest note), it just doesn't sound as cool / good... but it definitely simplifies things.

The last half of the book are technique specific: there's a chunk on Glissandos, Flutter Chords (related to Tongue Blocks), a few 1/4th step bends, a few Overblows and so forth. The book goes to advanced places, with tons of advanced techniques getting explored.

Sheet music, Tabs, AND a CD (if you're the type to learn by listening) are all provided as well. Its a great resource.

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More realistically, I think that taking a break and going for something easier often helps encourage me. I suggest playing easier songs, don't push yourself if you feel discouraged. That only leads to frustration.

Learning the Harmonica is going to be a years long commitment. There's no need to rush... just play and improve at a pace that feels comfortable.

Failing to differentiate between Bb (3') and A (3'') (half-step vs whole-step bends) over and over again is rough. Practice playing something easier like "Skip to my Lou" to build confidence and then return to bending practice.

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When I was learning to bend accurately (erm... I still am perfecting this technique actually...), I bought a Tuner that has note output and also checks for accuracy.

If you have access to a tuned Piano, you can just play the note and try to learn by ear what a bend should sound like.

Not sure what your price range is or what your bf has but here are some ideas (I'll try to go from cheapest to most expensive) :

A nice dark rosin. http://www.amazon.com/Original-Hill-Dark-Rosin-Violin/dp/B000F3FQP6


Chair strap. http://www.amazon.com/Xeros-Anchor-Endpin-Rest-Cello/dp/B000FCJUV8/ (This is the kind I have. There is no substitute, if he doesn't have a strap like this then he really needs one. If you are buying one note that you get one with a circular holder for the end pin and not a V-shaped one. The V-shaped ones are for basses and don't work nearly as well)


Sheet music. I am a fan of the Music Minus One (MMO) series. However a nice anniversary gift might be duet music. I can help think of some good duet music if you want but would like to know a little more about your playing level.


Bow rack. I bought my rack at Home Depot and it looks like this. (actual pic, sorry no link) http://i.imgur.com/Ytww0.jpg They're just hooks, but I really like mine


Cello CDs. There's a lot of good recordings out there but that's for you to find, I can give some suggestions if you want.


Music stand. http://www.amazon.com/Manhasset-Model-Sheet-Music-Stand/dp/B0002FOBJY/ If all your bf has is a wire stand then this is a great gift. There's also stuff like pencil holders, lights, and other stuff that would make good gifts as well.


Cello stand. There are lots of stands out there, I highly recommend a stand that supports the neck of the cello like this. http://www.amazon.com/Stagg-Foldable-Stand-for-Cello/dp/B003ZUEQLG/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1343515413&sr=1-6&keywords=cello+stand




There are some other cool stuff you could get, but may come off as offensive.


A practice mute. I would suggest an ebony comb style mute kind.http://www.amazon.com/JSI-Ebony-Cello-Mute/dp/B000F3HK5U/ over a "tourte style"

A tuner and or metronome. I use http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-MR500-Metronome/dp/B0002F6ZJI/

A wolf tone eliminator. http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Cello-Wolftone-Eliminatr-Brass/dp/B003KWGW9I

I wouldn't spend too much time changing the headstock, although what you propose sounds perfectly reasonable. That's probably how I'd do it if it was me. But for a cheap kit like this I'd rather just buy the String-Butler to get the strings to pull straight over the nut. Speaking of the nut, I'd expect the nut to be plastic and poorly slotted, so I'd recommend spending the $10 for a bone nut or better yet, $20 for a Tusq XL.

As for the rest of the kit - if it's anything like other cheap Chinese kits, the tuners will be hot garbage and should be replaced before you even put the thing together. Don't even bother installing them. Same might go for the pots, switches and pickups, but you might get lucky on those. The problem with the cheap components is that they're usually bought in bulk and QC is crappy at best, so a lot of lemons can make their way into kits. Pickups are not going to be high quality either, but they might be worth testing before tossing them. You can get decent ones from China - but not usually.

Oh, and of course, check the neck for fret sprout, especially if it's shipping from China. Temperature changes can shrink the neck wood, so the fret ends could slice your hand open. I also wouldn't be surprised if you needed to level the frets on this neck. AFAIK most kits require fretwork to be playable. That's certainly been my experience with the cheap necks I've handled.

I'd also be careful when sanding, because the top will be a super thin veneer and you can easily sand right through it if you're not careful. Basically, just go straight for a 320 grit and do it by hand just to get things smooth enough for a finish. Orbital rotary sander would be too aggressive for the veneer.

Good luck! And please post pictures of your progress!

If you can afford it, a nice set of strings would always be appreciated! This set is one of the better combinations around. There is also an option to buy a silk bag for cheap if you buy those strings, but even that would be a great gift alone :)

Otherwise, If he likes to practice in the evening, a heavy duty mute maybe? I use the Artino Cello Practice Mute

If he needs a endpin stop, the Dycem Black Hole hasn't failed me yet!

What kind of level is he? You could buy him some nice sheet music! Are you musical? Buy something you can play together!

Does he have a metronome? A nice mechanical metronome like the TakTell Piccolo would be ideal!

to add on to what /u/Bass-Doubled said, the other strategy along with working on with a metronome is to have a fingering that works, and stick with it - don't futz around too much with different fingerings as you're trying to get up to speed.

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As for what makes a "good fingering", it's very much practicality mixed in with personal taste, and knowing your strengths and weaknesses. I, for example, would not play an open D in the second sextuplet because I wouldn't be happy with string crossing for just one note (nor do I think I would make a good sound doing it), so I would opt for playing the previous A# B C# and the D in question all on the A string, probably 1-2 / 2-4 (with "/" denoting a shift up), or, if I was feeling cheeky, 1-3 / 2-4.

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So my fingering for the first two bars as an example would be:

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(III)1-(IV)1-4 \ (III)1-2 / 2-4-2 \ 1-4 (II) 0-1| 2-4-2 \ 1-4-1 / (III) 1-4-1 \ 2-4-2 | \ 4 (IV)1 (etc...)

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with the roman numerals indicating strings, "/" indicating a shift up, "\" indicating a shift back, and "|" indicating a bar line. It's nothing fancy, but it does a few things different than some people do. For instance, I keep each triplet figure in the second bar as its own unit, whereas other people will shift in various other places on the last sextuplet especially. I also opt not to use 0-1-0 for the third triplet in that bar - just personal preference for this type of music and this type of playing. If I was in a period ensemble, I'd play it with that open string.

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So my advice is "Get a fingering and practice it." Think about how fast it has to be at the end, and adjust your fingering accordingly. for helping metronome practice, I also recommend using rhythmic "fractions," or "fractals". whatever you want to call them, they're just a way of exhaustively writing out every way in which to play N notes in rhythm, or every way how to bow N notes.

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I use a pull out from this book by Ivan Galamian (warning, amazon link. not affiliated), but Hal Robinson's "Strokin'" is much the same - though I like the way it's laid out in Galamian's book more. Just personal preference.

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Good luck, this is a tough chunk, but totally achievable.

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edit - Also, don't buy that book there. I don't know why they're charging like, a hundred bucks for it but it's not worth that, and I'm sure you can find it somewhere else much cheaper.

You may not like this tip but....learn how to read music and some basic theory. You can basically never be as accurate when you learn by ear compared to learning from a score, because performers might take all sorts of liberties that aren't really part of the actual music.

So to answer you question, while it took time technically to execute good phrase structures and accurate rhythms, it also wasn't really that difficult because it's all laid out on the score and doesn't really take much effort on my part.

That's not to say I don't struggle with tricky rhythms or phrases, but I can take it apart methodically and eventually get it, because I understand what is going on with the music. I personally find that way easier than trying to just learn by rote, especially knowing that my ears aren't always perfect.

Edit: Oh, and I just thought of another point with rhythm/timing -- invest in a metronome! Something like this is pretty inexpensive and can be extremely helpful for practice. It's really important to start slow and work up to your final tempo, and a metronome can help keep you in check and make sure you're keeping a steady beat, especially when you're working slowly.

I'm an adult learner and I started with Suzuki. I actually like it. I also use Whistler's Introducing the Positions Vol. 1 and my preferred scale book is The Complete Scale Compendium for Violin by Larry Clark although I also have Galamian's Contemporary Violin Technique. I like Larry Clark's because it's good for beginners and very thorough. Galamian's and Carl Flesch's Scale System are good if you're really familiar with scales and need something more advanced.

YouTube has a lot of excellent videos. I prefer Eddy Chen if I'm stuck with something really particular. His advice helped me to really develop a practice routine that helped me stay focused and actually accomplish something. If you do Suzuki, there are some instructors who do play along videos (some even do slower tempo versions) of the etudes which I find helpful.

She is so adorable! She seems to have a good ear and a good sense of time, but you really should not let her play on a folding chair unless it is the only chair she can sit in where her feet touch the floor. Folding chair seats lean down towards the back, which forces your your body weight backwards. This is really bad for your cello posture and position. A flat seat like one of the chairs behind her in this video are much better. She will learn faster the better her sitting position is, because it will not restrain her motion as much as an optimal position. Tell her she is awesome!

You might consider http://www.amazon.com/JSI-Adjustable-Portable-Piano-Cello-Musician-Stool-Seat/dp/B009OXUN56/ref=sr_1_14?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458837058&sr=1-14&keywords=musician+chair


or better (and more expensive) http://www.amazon.com/ADJUSTRITE-Musicians-Chair-Vivo-USA/dp/B0016OIIX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458837058&sr=1-2&keywords=musician+chair

This looks like a pretty good tuner for a good price. But yeah, something like this is what I recommend. And remember to make sure it's set to 440hz!

As seemingly obvious as this is, I loved "Crocheting for Dummies", available from Amazon here. Not only does it have a great introduction to choosing yarn and to stitches, but it includes a great guide on how to read different kinds of patterns (written vs. diagrams, etc.). Good luck!

Amazon has some pretty good stuff. This is my favorite brand of staff paper, I like the 12 x 16 size but there is also a smaller size.

Composers also tend to collect musical scores. There is a publisher called Dover that sells anthologies of scores for cheap, I own about a dozen myself. I really like the Beethoven Sonatas and the Ravel Masterpieces. Something like that might be cool.

I agree with the other comment... While I used to really like the classic metronomes I found that digital ones (such as pro metronome, a phone app) are extremely helpful because you can break down different subdivisions of beats (1/8 notes, 1/16th notes, triplets)

That being said. If you are just starting out the wooden ones are cool, but pricey. The Yamaha QT 1 works well, and sounds like the wooden guys!

If you don't want to break the spine and/or get it comb bound, one of these works passably well.

Alternative, I use very large spring clamps that I picked up cheap at a dollar store that are great for holding large books open on music stands. Also pretty good for gigging in windy weather.

Then there are always binder clips which you can throw on edges and corners.

I pretty much use all of the above methods depending on the situation.

The metronome I got was: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B5MU4I/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

I've only been using it about 2 weeks, so no promises on longevity, or resilience.

It beeps (and you can adjust the volume of the beep) and you set the particular bpm you want. I set it to 164, and make sure that one of my feet hits on each beep. If it works better for you to only have it beep for your right foot, you would set it for 82 (in my case).

That's the cadence, and then to go faster, you just kinda ... apply more power for each stride. Like when you're biking, you can maintain a certain number of rotations of your pedals, and when you want to go faster, you just apply more power, or increase your gear ... its kinda like that?

Again, I've only recently started playing around with it, and its not crazy easy to pick up the turn over without the cadence changing when you're not on a treadmill -- but its worth it in the long run (according to my PT, will report back in a few months :) ).

Dumb question, but is there any way to check if an electric guitar works without having an amp? If I plug the guitar into the pedal and have headphones connected to the output on the pedal would any audio come through the headphones?

Also the pedal I have is the zoom g1xon with an expression pedal, I don't plan on using it so I was going to sell it, first off, the pedal doesn't turn on with batteries, is there any easy way to fix this? Also, would there be any indication that the expression pedal is functioning on the screen? All the buttons show some kind of response, but when I step on the expression pedal nothing shows up on the screen, again I don't have an amp rn so I can't test it unfortunately.

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Last two things, how can I check the thread size of the whammy bar hole? And does the type of string tree matter?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002E2GMY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002E2GMY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Or are they essentially identical, I really appreciate anyone that could help me with this, thank you

Hello all. So anyway I recently got this brand new guitar, and apparently tuning stability issues are a common thing with these. TIL! This guitar seems to have it pretty badly on the G string, which is also quite common according to what I’ve found on google. Apologies if you guys know all about this already, and I’m sounding like a noob!

So like I’m pretty much retuning after every song. Considering a few options now, just wanted to see what anyone recommends?

1. Take it to shop and have a tech look at it try to mitigate, file down nut possibly?
   
   
2. I could try one of these String Butlers. Anyone have any experience? Recommendation for what version, color, etc?
   
   
3. Maybe this can be a warranty claim or something? Not leaning towards this really because it seems like this is more of a flaw in the headstock configuration, not necessarily a defect in the guitar itself.
   
   
4. ?????
   
   
   Anyway, thanks!
   
   Edit: A few people suggested lubing the nut with powdered graphite, etc, so I picked up a tube of the Big Bends Nut Sauce — it was cheap and worth a shot. I think it’s a huge improvement so far. Not quite perfect; I might still end up with the string butler too but just lubing the nut seems to have made some difference.

What's your budget?

If it's like $20 or lower I'm sure he wouldn't mind patch cables. These cables are used to connect pedals to other pedals. If he ever gets more pedals and has no cables, bam your cables would be great for him.

A common brand

I use this brand but all they have in stock now is yellow and multicolor

If you have a budget of $100 here's the Korg Miku pedal. Most people won't have any use for it but he'll probably enjoy it. It's an interesting pedal.

From the flute-beatboxing guy.

Edit: You don't actually need to be able to play the flute for this to be useful.

Also, a metronome will be useful to get some beat/rhythm. I've found a free app for both Android and ipod/iphone/ipad. Here's one for mac and one for PC. If you prefer the real version, here's a digital one and an pendulum one.

This post originally had a few different solutions in it, but honestly I think the quickest and most effective one would be to just drop the ~$10 for a new tuner that can all notes, not just standard guitar tuning. Tuners are an essential tool, and there's nothing wrong with making sure you have what you need in your essentials kit.

Other than clarinet stuff, for a practice room you'd want at bare minimum a chair (one with a back, but no arms and doesn't move, swivel, or rock) and music stand. Some kind of mirror is helpful too.

Really any space will work for practicing; if you have a dedicated room for listening to music, then that will be perfect.

As for clarinet stuff, if she majored in music she should know what equipment she wants. I would either ask her specifically what she's looking for or take her to a local music store and let her pick out what she wants.

To give you an idea on price, reeds are usually $20-30 for a box of ten (that will last a month or two depending), mass-produced mouthpieces are around $100, handmade mouthpieces are $300, and clarinets themselves cost around $3-4k bought new.

Attach a board from chains and hang it from the ceiling.

Sell it.

Get a QuikLok laptop stand and it will fit perfectly (https://www.amazon.com/Quik-LPH-001-Laptop-Holder-Black/dp/B0084CRYOG/)

Build a shelf.

The freezer?

Since I don't know what your room looks like I can't really tell you how to save space. Some of the above may not be useful.

The Four Element Synth by Rob Papen is an excellent book that covers subtractive synthesis in depth, with many of the concepts being applicable to the Sub 37. The included DVDs are especially useful.

I also learned a lot by watching how-to videos on YouTube, even if they're for other synths. Generally you can create a similar patch on the Sub 37 and get similar results. It'll also help you find ways to set up modulation in useful ways.

I have a pair of JBL LSR305s. I recently bought a Klipsch R-110SW for $250 along with the Klipsch WA-2 wireless adapter, which I'm planning on selling. Typically they're in a 9'x10' room, but I haul them out to the medium sized living room occasionally.

Right now I'm using a Y splitter to feed the speakers and subwoofer separately. The Klipsch subwoofer has an adjustable lowpass filter, but would a highpass filter to the speakers be much of an improvement?

I can still return the Klipsch, and saw the M-Audio BX Subwoofer for $200 on sale, which has highpass filtering built in. Or should I just save up for a SVS or similarly priced higher-end subwoofer? The other idea would be getting a MiniDSP 2x4 or HD later, and doing the filtering through that.

Don't worry, I used to do that all the time! That's one reason why it's beneficial to use a metronome. Mine looks like a green flying saucer. I've had it for about ten years. You can alternatively download a free metronome app for iPhone or android (or any OS presumably).

I'm pretty sure those RCA jacks in the back are outputs, not inputs... The overview of that model lists 3 RCA preouts; front, rear, and sub and no input without either the CD-RB10 or CD-RB20 adapters. For a 3.5mm input you'll want the CD-RB20 and probably a 3.5mm feed through panel mount jack if you want a nice clean installation.

2.5 Billion was a large guess. Essentially I am thinking of a piano tuner as something like this Basically, I just thought about how long piano tuners may have existed, even non electronic tuners, then figured even if they weren't working and we sitting in a landfill they were still in existence etc.. etc... 2.5 billion ever created throughout the history of time just seemed like a fun answer.

I always suggest Crocheting for Dummies to people. It's how I taught myself. A very useful and accessible book. Check out your local library, as they probably have a copy of it or similar books. And as others have suggested, youtube is a pretty good resource for learning.

Looking for a studio subwoofer to go with my Yamaha HS5s. It also must have 1/4 input and either XLR or 1/4 outputs.

I am looking to spend around $300-400. Here are the few contenders I have come up with. Would love opinions and suggestions.

M-Audio BX 10 - On sale for $200:

https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-BX-Subwoofer/dp/B00PFQ1ZJ4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494270776&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=m-audio+bx+10

JBL LSR 310s: $400

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR310S-Channel-Studio-Subwoofer/dp/B00I08RT3U/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1494270814&sr=1-1&keywords=jbl+lsr+310s

Yamaha HS8S: $450, outside of my price range, only an 8" sub, but gets fabulous reviews and matches my HS5s.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS8S-HS8-Studio-Subwoofer/dp/B00DHSK8C2/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1494270849&sr=1-1&keywords=yamaha+hs8s

Mackie MR mk3 Series MR10Smk3: $300

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-MR10Smk3-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00EA25G12/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1494270899&sr=1-1&keywords=mackie+subwoofer

I use a laptop stand for a drum machine.

This one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/Quik-LPH-001-Laptop-Holder-Black/dp/B0084CRYOG

You may have to find your own source for that if you're interested.
You should post the price of that one since it's too expensive so people can help better.

I added an aux port to my 2006 not too long ago. A ground loop isolator is a must otherwise you'll get a lot of background noise during acceleration and when you charge your device.

I got these parts:

Goliton aux cable for Mazda

3.5mm feed-thru panel mount jack

ground loop isolator

The combination works perfectly. I drilled a hole in the center between the cigarette lighter and the passenger airbag light. There is plenty of space behind it and the part is pretty cheap (less than $20) to buy used on ebay if I must return the car to stock configuration.

It's very easy. Watch this for head unit removal.

Once it's out, plug into the back of the unit, then run the wire where you'd like it. Either through the glovebox, or drill a hole near the 12v outlet and use something like this to make an outlet, or just run it through the hole if you don't want to mess with that.

Peak Music Stands Music Stand (SMS-20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBD47CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mcYTDbZS3EHNF

I've had one and used it since 8th grade, great study stand, I trust it to hold my laptop, phone and tablet, and it all folds up to about the size of a trumpet (slightly longer)

Then getting a good stand will feel absolutely amazing... the classic Manhasset or if you still want foldable/portable, this one is a joy to own.

You might want to take a look at something like the String Tree Butler.
It makes sure that the string pull is straight through the nut, ensuring smooth tuning.

It would really be nice if the publishing companies just do this knowing how hard it is to keep those large books open. For the smaller music books, an easy solution is a book clip

> But I find that a metronome helps me think. Is that strange?

This is the purpose of a metronome. Contrary to popular belief, it is not your enemy. It is your friend.

If you're using it while writing, this may not matter, but when practicing I prefer the metronome to be loud so I don't have to worry about playing over it. This one is quite loud, which some people don't like. I also have a tiny clip-on one that's quieter and can carry with me in an instrument case.

Maybe take these comments with a grain of salt because I use them to practice, not write.

http://www.amazon.com/Manhasset-Model-Sheet-Music-Stand/dp/B0002FOBJY

You can still buy them new. I would consider a Vintage as something not in production.

Still a good price for something that can be extremely useful.

These are possibly the greatest portable stands ever invented. I have one and I love it compared to a crappy wire one.

https://www.amazon.com/Peak-Music-Stands-SMS-20-Collapsible/dp/B00KBD47CS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PNDRMNZ1137FN8D4VM42

This issue exists regardless of sheet music vs tabs. Non spiral bound music books are all affected, so get off your high horses, folks.

I have one of these and it works reasonably well. https://www.amazon.com/Music-Book-Clip-Page-Holder/dp/B000M74WXM

I also use clothes pins on the really thick ones to clip the page to my music stand.

The suggestion of having the book modified to a spiral binding is the best, though.

I have several colleagues who are very happy with this:
https://www.amazon.com/ADJUSTRITE-Musicians-Chair-Vivo-USA/dp/B0016OIIX0
I remember trying it out in-store and not liking it enough to justify a purchase - my recollection also is that it doesn't go super low. Worth a try though if you can find one to try out locally.

For the past five years, I've been using this:
http://jansenpianobench.co/jansen-wood-top-piano-stool.html
at pretty much any venue that doesn't have Wenger cello chairs or comparable. The piano stools are pricey ($300) but for me it has been an absolutely worthwhile investment. And they can be adjusted extremely low (just under 16" at the lowest setting.) They're also quite heavy but again, I've found mine useful enough that I'm still lugging it most everywhere I go.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

[https://smile.amazon.com/dp/9081964305/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBjJzbWS9EKHX]](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/9081964305/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RBjJzbWS9EKHX])

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

If you can't hear the difference between the note (pitch) from an online tuner and the note played on the ukulele, you might need to just buy a tuner. Something like this

Direct swap! Very easy and $50. Did them on my MIM HSS. I also did the American string tree and the fender bone nut.

Fender Locking Tuners Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8McADb32V80QN

Fender Vintage Style Stratocaster/Telecaster Electric Guitar Pre-Slotted Bone Nut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FW84QMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qPcADbG4RM9BW

Fender American Series String Guides https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E2GMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aQcADb44ETYFN

Adjustable chairs like this are nice so you can set the height and angle of the chair any way you want.

The Four Element Synth. The DVD is very helpful.
https://www.amazon.com/Rob-Papen-Four-Element-Synth/dp/9081964305/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492730081&sr=8-1&keywords=4+element+synths

Can't argue with that. I feel like you should get one of these to go with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Korg-Stomp-Vocaloid-Guitar-Effects/dp/B00OIPQQYM

Use this if you don't already have one

With my CA-20, it listens to the tone, picks it's closest note, and tells you how far away you are from it. It's extremely sensitive and it always provides a good tune.

Side note, you can de-tune at will too by setting the A-440 reference point to a different frequency, which will change your overall tuning. I notice some artists record slightly downtuned.

Let me help you with making your task even harder by suggesting you thing about a String Butler:

https://www.amazon.com/String-Butler-Guitar-Tuning-Improvement/dp/B074CNX799

I once got a page holder for my piano books like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Music-Book-Clip-Page-Holder/dp/B000M74WXM/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1481560256&sr=1-1&keywords=piano+book+holder) and use it daily.

I just use heavier books on whatever side needs it. If it's a really new book and using other books to hold it open isn't enough yet, I might use a clip like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Music-Book-Clip-Page-Holder/dp/B000M74WXM

But I prefer the book method since they're lying around anyway and I can turn pages easier.

I use this Korg MA-1 Metronome and it works fine for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Korg-MA1BL-Visual-Counting-Metronome/dp/B0055BMQG0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421195961&sr=8-5&keywords=metronome

Those are $149.99 brand new on Amazon here in the states.

https://smile.amazon.com/Korg-Stomp-Vocaloid-Guitar-Effects/dp/B00OIPQQYM/ref=sr_1_1

You can find it on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIPQQYM/

Doesn't get much weirder than this. Demo.

under $50? manhasset is the way to go

https://www.amazon.com/Manhasset-Model-Sheet-Music-Stand/dp/B0002FOBJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=music+stand+manhasset&qid=1556472369&s=gateway&sr=8-3&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Its about $113 you can get it Here this is where i got mine.

Not an expert by any means but that one guitar pedal meme comes to mind.

here you go

Here ya go

ADJUSTRITE Musician's Chair by Vivo USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016OIIX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5sfuzb6JXSBVQ

I use this guy.

Quick Lok Music Stand (LPH001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084CRYOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOzzCb4MR5BVN

Quik-Lok Laptop or Mixer TriPod Stand, LPH-001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084CRYOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A7l1BbND18PC0

Fender sells some, not sure if you've seen them. I put them on my Strat and they work great, no problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Fender-American-Series-String-Guides/dp/B0002E2GMY

Manhasset for home use - it's the standard for a reason.

For portable, I keep a K&M heavy duty in my car at all times. It's very sturdy but not insanely heavy like some other models.

you see the tremolo cavity cover in the last pic on the black strat? the 2 middle screws shouldn't line up, one is offset from the other on real fenders.

there should also be a walnut insert in the truss rod hole on a real fender.

the string trees on an american fender wouldn't be that cheap style, they use a fancier one (https://www.amazon.com/Fender-American-Series-String-Guides/dp/B0002E2GMY)