Reddit mentions: The best nippers & snips

Popped in to mention, the nice thing about rag quilts (of you're still planning to make a rag quilt), is you can make the seams as large as you want and it will just make the ragged bits more fluffy when it's washed, so if you wanted to, you could incorporate the original stitch lines in the seam.

Also, if you plan to make it a rag quilt, I HIGHLY recommend some good scissors. I had a pair of friskars I had bought from Walmart and they fell apart after two or three smallish rag quilts. I really like the Heritage ones and they seem to have stay sharp longer. They cost more to purchase, but oh my gosh, your hands will thank you. Good luck! I'm sure it will be super cute.

Here is how to turn it into a good experience:
Put all the minis he has now aside with the box. You guys will fix everything later.

Get these 4 things (most of them you got in your house anyway):

a) A diagonal cutter for elecronics for 3-5$ to perfectly remove models from the sprues
b) a small metallic nail file to deburr said models
c) the best plastic glue in the world the needlehead is easy to use even for a 10y old and will make sure not to soak the models in glue
d) DE Skysplinter set to "start from 0"

Now all you do is drop his ass off in a Games Workshop store. Tell them what happened. Buy this Skysplinter set there and they will be thrilled to help him build it in store. They'll teach him how to hold the tools, how to correctly deburr the models, how to glue and position them the right way.
Now your son will be ready to rework his Start Collecting. The same store will help him out with messed up or missing parts. Chances are high he will have enough spare parts from your skysplinter set anyway.

He'll even have a full 500 points army.
The typical army sizes are: 500p, 750p, 1000p, 1500p and 1850p.

500 points is good enough for the first couple of months (think 3-6 months) before it starts to get boring. His list should be something like:

HQ:
Archon (Agonizer, Shadow field, Splinter Pistol)
Troops:
10 Kabalyte Warriors (1 Shredder, 1 Dark Lance)

• Raider (Dark Lance)
  10 Kabalyte Warriors (1 Shredder, 1 Dark Lance)
  
• Raider (Dark Lance)
  Fast Attack:
  3 Reaver Jetbikes
  
  This is a really good start anyway and he can develop his army into any desired direction from here.
  The Gangs of Commorragh set for example might be nice addition from there on. It is dirt-cheap and will catapult his army to 750 points. If he happens to like Hellions and jetbikes of course. Do not buy something like this right away, let him paint and play with his 500 points first. This is more like a 1 year plan.

Looks like the bed of an old chevrolet.

They make these rubber/plasticy fender flares for four wheelin' that basically hole punch or self tap onto your existing body (it's brutal but looks like a few new holes are the least of that car's body issues) don't get the ones with the adhesive.. those ones are shit, get the ones that physically attach to your rusted out panels lol

These are just examples, you'll have to find he ones that fit your exact truck/suv of course but they make them for just about every truck ever made, they're pretty affordable.https://www.amazon.com/Premium-2010-2018-Fleetside-Paintable-Bolt-Riveted/dp/B01NATZCNC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=fender+flares&qid=1563498806&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I'd use a pair of Tin snips and work your way through that rust until you get back to pretty fresh metal.. then sand the edges with 40~60 grit and then paint it with that anti-rusting primer paint and go about buttoning on those new fender flares.. you'll pass with flying colors for about 100$ and a few hours of basic work.

[edit] Here's a triple pair of metal working snips... lol you'll probably want all three and figure out why about 20 minutes into cutting the first fender... so I linked what i'd personally get for that job and maybe a few more around the house in the future because they're pretty useful tools to have in general.https://www.amazon.com/Aviation-Straight-Cutters-Aluminum-Leather/dp/B07RKHV3GC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=tin+snips&qid=1563498992&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I don't use a blowtorch or a lighter. When the coil heats up from the you can just adjust it easily with tweezers and the thing you wrapped around. OK well I'm too lazy to rephrase this, but here's a big list of scattered supplies:


$250 is way too much for what you listed, you can get way cheaper than that. Keep in mind you really don't NEED 100W to use an RDA. My homemade DNA30 is great for a cool vape on something with a bit more restricted airflow than the Mutation, but that will still work just fine. I would stick with your current Sigelei 30W until you know for sure you want to upgrade, because that is going to cost you the single most amount of money.

If you want the mutation x v2, grab it here for $30, its worth getting this one authentic and not a clone because its so cheap to begin with and most clones do not have the wide bore drip tip.

Japanese Cotton is what I usually use.

For the rest of your gear, Lightning Vapes has a good selection of well priced rebuilding supplies:

Ohm Meter $14.75

I recommend Ceramic Tweezers $12.95

I mostly use 28ga Kanthal (100 feet for $6.25) with my 30W box mod, with mechs I use lower gauges

I would also find a pair of flush cutters to snip wires as close to the posts as you can, and some nice small scissors to cut your cotton.

OH! Almost forgot, this is what I use to wrap my coils.

As a general rule of thumb, don't buy wire or wick from websites that sell mostly juice or hardware, it will almost always be overpriced.


If you want to get REALLY cheap and don't mind waiting, go check out Fasttech

-nice shears clipped to belt with carabiner which is also nice for holding keys

-Stethoscope with belt holder

-clicky top pens

-I also like parker pens if you can get them in bulk

-smartphone with pepid - expensive but has drugs and quickie reads on even rare conditions, has a few holes, but pretty good

-personalized stamp with DEA, LIC, NPI

-spectralink phone provided by hospital with outside dial able number

-cherokee personalized scrub top, landau poplin personalized coat (feels nice, fits well, inexpensive), carhartt cargos (hard to find), comfy shoes

Made complete list so I can come back and reorder stuff, hehe

Get a good set of cat claw trimmers (honestly I use a pair of wire snips similar to these, they work the best for my skittish kitty). Get him used to them. You don't have to cut them very short, just nub the tips a little. :) I have one cat I have to do when he sleeping, he's a biter when it comes to nail trimming time! :D

Get a rope wrapped scratching post, and/or a cardboard scratching thingee one of the slanted ones. Cats need to scratch things, it helps them shed claw layers. If you don't give them an outlet, they will go after the furniture.

Have fun with him! Love him lots and lots!

For the white marks there are two things to help.

1. Make two cuts with your nippers - one about halfway down the gate (the plastic between the round parts of the runner and the actual part) to free it from the runner, then a second cut with the nippers flush against the part. I've been doing this recently and while you have to make more cuts, the amount of cleanup you have to do is minmal to none. I started doing this halfway through my MG Jesta because that black plastic was nub mark city and the results were night and day. HOWEVER, if you have crap nippers then you may run into the same problem soooooo.....
   
   
2. BUY GOOD TOOLS! You don't need to go out and buy the fabled SPN-120 nippers, but I would seriously recommend these: GodHand GN125. They are far and away the best nippers I have used for the price. They cut nicely, hold their edge well, and on the lighter color plastics I can get cuts that need no cleanup at all with them. Much better than the ones you'll get at the local hobby lobby! For X-actos I've started using their Z-series blades and they too have made my gunpla a lot better looking than whatever old ones I was using before I went tool shopping. Having the right tools makes a HUGE difference, enough to justify the expense if you're building more than 1-2 kits.

To those who really want this:You can get a Knipex Pliers wrench, which is like a crescent wrench combined with pliers. It's doesn't automatically adjust but you get a TON more strength. I personally own this and it's about the only tool I carry with me around the farm along with a Leatherman.

I like the flat sides when compared to a set of channel locks as it doesn't mar up my bolts. You also get a really tight fit. I got this because I was constantly going back to the shop to get a stupid wrench cause I brought the wrong size when a bolt would fly off.

I also recommend the comfort grip model. I wish I had got the tether point as well so I could put a lanyard on it to attach to my belt so it doesn't come out of my pockets while riding on a tractor/UTV/mower.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3AE1HV/ref=psdc_553324_t3_B01AY0JXPS?th=1

When I first started sewing, all I did was rag quilts. I love that they're super forgiving.

Do you have some snips for the fringe? These guys were one of the best investments I made.

For straight cuts, I like the double-cut snips. They make clean lines and you don't have to fight to keep your hand and the snips out of the way as you're cutting. So much easier to use than traditional snips. They do have a kerf though, so they wouldn't work if you can't take a little strip of scrap in what you're cutting.

I've got this pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZOMTYU and it's great.

Not much to add to an excellent setup. I find that long-term the hardest part is to find the juice you really like, because the gear generally tends to be good if you go for what most people are using. I'd only add one of these which are a godsend when wicking. Vape on!

compared to the ones i got in a gunpla builders kit, yes. took me 9 hours to build this model using the god hand, i can guarantee it would have been over 15hrs if i hadnt used the godhand nippers due to how much sanding i would have to do. you can get one here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6U0WCU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that's the one i used. well worth it if you think you can take care of them. (dont use them to cut any thick spurs)

I have this one from Weaver - https://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Leather-00068-Round-Knife/dp/B00UVBJQX0
It's nice and solid and the steel seems to be pretty high quality. It will also require considerably less work to bring it to proper sharpness and has the benefit of a completely round blade profile, so jigs can be made to sharpen it.

I use these for anything that has a finish or material which I’m worried about scratching up:
Knipex jaw protectors for 10” cobra pliers

They are awesome, last a while, are easy to put on/take off, but fit like a glove.

I got over 40 years in cars and never seen anything like that. Some times bras and bug guards are held on with things with "hooks" but have some other type of attachments. They look like soft aluminum, they could be bent over after hooking?

Ok, part 2, the important part. I have poured over all the hardware books in my life as stocking the shop was one of my jobs, nothing like that in any book I have seen. You could pick up a sheet of aluminum at the hardware store, it's very easy to cut and make your own strips. This is what you want to cut them.

If you're talking about diagonal cutting pliers, (or dykes) a good set of tin snips like these would work much better and would likely be easier on your hands. Everyone should own a pair of these anyway, as they really come in handy more often than you would think. If you buy a lot of products that come sealed in that rigid clear plastic these are a blessing. They come in different sizes and some can get pretty pricey, but that $10 pair on Amazon would chew up all the metal in your wallet in no time.

I own a pair (they're really excellent as utility scissors for cutting hose, plastic packaging, etc). They have blunt tips and an angled handle, and are designed to slide along skin safely.

I wouldn't ever WANT to use them for their intended purpose, but it seems like they'd do the job just fine...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XB4U0C/

I run a pretty light setup. I've never used a milk crate or bucket

In the back I have a dry box that holds a small battery for my fishfinder, I put my keys in there, and I usually throw my sandals back there. Then my stringer and anchor too.

If I'm going to keep a fish I put it on a stringer and keep it in the water while i'm not moving. I keep the stringer on a 4ft piece of line and I wrap it around an anchor cleat so the fish sink a little and stay cold. Then when i go to leave a place I pull it up and put them in back or just over my feet.

In the hole between my legs, I keep my fish gripper, tackle box, and a pair of forceps and boomerang clippers on a nite ize key chain with retracable clips. This usually stays just clipped my life vest / neck lanyard so it's all easily accessible all the time.


Then my net, and fishing poles. My kayak has built in rod holders

Fish Stringer


Boomerang Clippers


Fish Gripper

Dry Box


nite ize locking clip for clippers, grippers and pliers


Gear teather for my fish grippers

I love my cobras, and I've tried NWS, DeWalt, Milwaukee, channel lock. Cobras 7/10/12" are a must for me.

Pliers wrench, if you are worried about finish/scratches. I only slightly care about them.

Dykes, I'm all for the wiha bicut. These I got to replace my Knipex 10". Main thing is hard sharp tooling.

Wiha 32636 Bicut SuperCut Compound Cutters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7UR8VO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9lIDCbFQAT47G

I think you just need to keep reassuring her. Especially reassure her that even though you were physically uncomfortable and freaking out a bit, you always felt safe with her— that you still trusted her, knew she wasn't trying to do something you weren't OK with, etc.

It's actually pretty easy to accidentally put someone in a position where they asphyxiate or lose circulation when experimenting with bondage. That's why it's a good idea to always have a sturdy pair of scissors (like bandage shears or EMT shears) in the toy box in case you need to get someone out of the ropes in a hurry. And the top should keep an eye out for anything turning blue or purple that shouldn't be. This page has a nice list of cautions for a bunch of different kinds of kink. Jay Wiseman's book is often recommended in the BDSM communities I've known.

On another note, maybe your profuse apology reminded her of her old abusive(?) relationship? Maybe it was one of those things where she always had to apologize for being hurt by him ("I'm sorry I made you beat me!", "I'm sorry I didn't like it when you forced yourself on me", etc)? You don't really have a lot to apologize for after all. Breaking the mood, etc., but that happens, that's normal, an apology is nice but it isn't a big deal. You were probably in an unfamiliar vulnerable headspace and apologized a lot, and maybe she recognized in you the way she acted when she was being hurt.

Try these, you'll love them.

https://www.amazon.com/Boomerang-BTC233-Snip-Braid-Cutters/dp/B0091JSFSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493153185&sr=8-1&keywords=fishing+clippers

I love thread nipper style scissors. They are cheap and accurate. Also keep a pair of cheap-o regular scissors around for metal wire and other tough stuff.

In my experience it depends on the rent-a-cop, for example I always have paramedic sheares in the webbing of my backpack and have done so for the last 4 years both at con and out of con. Until Sunday last year when I not only had to explain what a camelbak was, he wanted to check the scissors that actually had a little bit of dust on them. I could not stop myself from laughing in his face. I composed myself enough to say keep them and walked in......

I'm curious, what do you use to cut them? I was using snippers sort of like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-8-Inch-Straight-Pattern-35103/dp/B00KX4KAHG/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=tin+snippers&qid=1573249409&sr=8-26

Your stonework and windows look nice, btw.

I have these, they're inexpensive, and they seem to work much better than the cheap shears my company buys.

http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-Titanium-Bonded-Bent-Snips/dp/B000XB4U0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367854274&sr=8-2&keywords=trauma+shears

I have these deadly snips. Lol.

I think it's a trim nail driver:

https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Tool-Cutlery-MW-TND-Driver/dp/B003IWB042

edit: this one looks more like yours:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Self-Centering-Nail-Setter-58-011/100654915

These seem to fit your description.

Maxpedition individual first aid pouch


zipper pocket:

• safety pins<br />

• Nitrile gloves
  
• Ziplock bag:
  
• bacitracin
  
• alcohol wipes
  
• Band-Aids (several sizes/types)
  
• Steri-strips
  
• Moleskin
  
• Tegaderm
  
• Vaseline gauze
  
• Glacier Gel
  
• 4x4 Gauze
  
  Inside:
  
  
• Sharpie
  
  "White" side
  
  
• Whistle
  
• Signal mirror
  
• Trauma shears
  
• Wet Wipes
  
• Aluminum Finger Splint
  
• Saline
  
• Tweezers
  
• Combat Gauze
  
  "Black" side
  
  
• Ace wrap
  
• Body Glide
  
• Transpore Medical Tape
  
• Duck tape
  
• Triangle Bandage
  
• Coban
  
• Compressed Gauze dressing
  
  EDIT: Spelling, formatting, and added some links (cuz I'm bored at work). Not necessarily the ones from the vid, but links nonetheless

sure - small flush cutters

Use these

https://www.amazon.com/GodHand-GH-PN-120-Hand-Plier-PN-120/dp/B00U6U0WCU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H06129V4KXGBJ2A5NVDQ

or ems shears http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-Titanium-Bonded-Bent-Snips/dp/B000XB4U0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345895797&sr=8-2&keywords=ems+shear

Or these

Space Pen

Littman Stetho

MagLite

Glove pouch

Shears

Tool Holster


That's what I carried with a volly service.

By titanium version, do you mean this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C3D2RLC?cache=535aa685d49cb2a6897503d14dc16c7f&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408313521&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XB4U0C?pc_redir=1409926795&robot_redir=1

Best trauma shears ever at a great price. Most bandage scissors can't cut Kerlex. These cut jeans no problem.

Instead of a pen light that will die every few months, I use a LED light on a keyring. I keep it clipped to my badge so it's always within reach and I don't forget it. Mine was a couple of bucks at an army surplus store and has lasted two years so far.

If your program requires a BP cuff, see if you can buy it from an older student.

I work in EMS and I’ll never buy them. I’ve cut through Carhartt insulated clothes with the shears I get from amazon and they’re only $10, so when they get all nasty with blood/vomit or if they get misplaced, I don’t feel like I’ve wasted money.

Link for those curious:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XB4U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vBJwDbRPRHK8H