(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best oil & fluid additives

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

> never owned a diesel before

Once you experience the torque of a diesel, it's hard to go back to a gasser. My first diesel was an LB7. I bought it with 200,000 miles and sold it when it dropped an injector at 300,000 miles. Loved the truck and power. Injectors and head gasket are what to watch for on the LB7. Use a good fuel treatment and watch your coolant reservoir for a dark ring indicating head gasket issue. If you're really committed to the truck, add a Fass Fuel System.

200K miles on a gearbox with original transmission fluid is absolutely incredible.

Im sure it was changed once or twice. But that said, it couldnt hurt to spend $80 in fluid and a filter and try and replace it.

Its almost as easy as doing an oil change on the car.

Edit:

Fluid

Filter

This:

https://www.amazon.com/Cummins-3376891-Oil-Additive-Fluorescent/dp/B003X2ZZPM

Black light oil additive will help you track down where it's coming from.

A few different colours will help, if it's Engine oil or ATF, or power steering...

You can buy scented fuel additive in a variety of fragrances. I wouldn’t recommend using it but we tried this on a old engine and yes it works. The smell lingers for ages even after adding new fuel without the additive.

Allstar ALL78126 Grape Fuel Fragrance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZQS28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hWZQCbVPGGMDS

You can run a coolant that has SCA's already in it or you can just run standard coolant and buy the SCA separate and add it yourself. You need to check the concentration regardless to make sure it is still good. They sell kits with litmus paper and a gauge to check concentration. Genuine Ford Fluid VC-8 Diesel Cooling System Additive - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU3LPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUeYCbFY5JCE8

Get some of this. Run it for 20 minutes then do an oil change. If it has been sitting for 1.5 years some old oil has probably clogged some of the lifters and they are not pumping up. If it fixes it, great, if not you are only out a few bucks and it is a lot cheaper than the other options.

We use a product from BG at my dealership to help prolong engine life on 1zz, 1nz (fe/fxe), and the 2az’s. This stuff works wonders! You’ll need to do two oil changes though, on the first you’ll add the red can and the remainder oil and start it and get to normal operation temp (do not rev or drive, let idle) then drain fully and add the blue can with remainder oil. If possible, go for a 30-50 mile straight drive.

I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7

Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!

Oh no I knew it was you because it flags me when you post my username. I just thought it was funny someone thought what I said was cool enough to bear repeating.

Side note I personally have done all the services that can be done to a car to my own car (2010 Equinox with now roughly 80,000 miles on it) just because I wanted to know if they actually had any benefit. After induction cleaning (I did it at Ford with their method) I noticed that my gas mileage actually went down for about two full tanks of gas but when it rebounded I gained about two miles per gallon highway. (I lived about 20 minutes by highway from work so 90% of my driving was on the interstate). This data was confirmed by a fellow tech who also did his Nissan Altima at the same time. We both complained about it to each other and found it amusing that we had the same result.

Some dealerships swear by a company/product called BG who makes this stuff. The ones we used at the dealership actually came with a can of CF5 instead of 44k as the 44k is a stronger chemical for fuel cleaning and our BG rep said to use it for induction/fuel cleaning and the CF5 was for regular maintenance use but honestly both methods work. If you decide you want to use this stuff this funnel is made to fit the cans and makes pouring the 44k into the gas tank way easier. Also that price for them as a set is what we charged at the dealer which after tax came out to roughly 42 bucks. Buying them on Amazon individually seems to cost way more for some reason.

Point of me telling you this is that what we did was use that red can (EPR) BEFORE we changed your oil and ran at idle for 10-15 minutes then drained the oil and replaced the filter. We added the Cf5 (or in the linked instance the 44k which actually works better) to the fuel system and when we refilled the oil in the engine we added the MOA(Blue can) to the engine oil accounting for the capacity difference in oil (it's 11 ounces of MOA which is roughly 0.3 quarts which really only matters for finicky shit like Fords 1.6 Ecoboost garbage). When done by us at the dealership and continued on a maintenance program BG actually warranties the engine against break down. They also have chemicals for all other liquids like brake fluid and trans and coolant and the like. My father used it in his F150 and his trans went out and they covered the replacement cost which was something like 2500 or so USD. Anywho long ass story short those chemicals I still use every oil change cycle in my own car and while I don't really notice and major performance difference I have noticed that that my engine runs very smooth and when I watch the data on my diagnostic tablet (Snap On Solus for those who are curious) everything is running damn near perfect still after 6 years and 80,000 miles and I still have factory everything inside the engine (including spark plugs!) except oil, coolant, and air filters and the like. You know shit you're supposed to change from time to time.

Basically a lot of shit they offer I think is straight up bullshit (like getting coolant, brake fluid, and trans fluid swapped out way too often/too soon) but the BG oil change additive shit and the induction cleaning maybe every 30-40k or so depending on how you drive is something I do to my own car and if I do it to mine then I guess you can trust that I'm not selling you snake oil. Also fact check your dumbass service advisor. I had one who was notorious for selling power steering flushes on cars that don't fucking have hydraulic power steering! Dafuq yo? I've also had one that had this little old lady getting a fucking induction service with EVERY oil change. Worlds cleanest fuel induction system. We finally caught her because the lady came to another advisor and asked why we didn't recommend the "flush thingy".

Pri-D includes both and it's ~$33 and is good for 512 gallons. As I understand you can re-treat multiple times without problems.

If that’s the problem, you’ll have to get the carbon cleaned out. I had to get it done twice. Then going forward, fill up with tier 1 gas. (Tier 1 gas has detergent in it to keep carbon from building up inside the engine)

If you don’t use tier 1 on gas, then use gas treatment every time you fill up. A bottle of treatment goes for 4 bucks on amazon.

Good luck

Ive heard good things about fhis.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DKV5H8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22284-Protection-Treatment-Stabilizer/dp/B00HEZFZEK

Buy your old man some of this, and insist it be added to every tank of gas. At the very least, it must be added every time the car is parked. If you buy it yourself, at least you get over old miser hump. Its not some new "Fancy shit" either. Sta-bil is what the car collectors use to protect their $1 million Ferraris. If the guy thinks you are full of shit, call 5 mechanics with him listening on speaker phone.

Though the best approach with stubborn people is to lead them into thinking its his idea to use it. You know, leave some ads out where he can find them, use some in your car and say how much better its running...whatever can lead him on. I mean the classic example of leading people is...if you want your friend to get you both a beer from your fridge, start talking about how awesome beer is, and how you just got some last night to drink...

And yes your old man is partly right, better a tank of spoiled gas than a rusted out tank because condensation and the fact residue would dry up and varnish everything, but that was before we started running cars on what is effectively bourbon. Now the bad gas issue is even worse. Which is double why he should be using ethanol remover and stabilizer with every fill up on a classic.

Sta-bil, while perhaps not cheap, should keep the car alive.

Dealer tech here; this is "off the record" but some Yamaha Ringfree . has worked miracles before. Typically sticky rings is seen on short-trip babied cars that never see high temp or high RPM, but given your mileage and consumption I'd give it a try.

Also chuck in fresh PCV valve in there, given the age I'd bet it's gummed up pretty bad. Should take you all of five minutes to do if you have a deep 19mm socket and a modicum of mechanical know-how.

I store gasoline in my garage which gets down below freezing and up above 100°F. I tried the plastic style cans, but I had one burst and leak gas and on another one the nozzle cracked and came off.

This summer I tested Blitz metal cans. They are absolutely awesome. They can easily handle the pressure from summer temperatures and I had no problems with leaking, bursting, or anything else.

STA-BIL is ok, but PRI-G is much better. I've read a lot of reviews and stories of people having more success with PRI-G. Some people even claim that it can be used to recondition gasoline that has been sitting too long.

I've used both products in chainsaws, lawnmowers, a rototiller, generators, and I mostly rotate my stock through my vehicles. I try to buy low and use it when the prices spike. That isn't my primary reason for having extra gas, but it doesn't hurt to save some coin.

The longest I've kept gas is 18 months. I think that container had STA-BIL in it. No problems. My car ran fine. No noticeable difference. One of the things that I read, that I didn't know before, is that the more the shelf life is reduced every time the container is open or vents. The products in gas that evaporate first is what gives it the 'bang'. Liquid gas doesn't burn well, the vapors are where it's at.

I plan on storing gas in metal cans with PRI-G for at least three years. I'll be able to test that in a few months.

I did some googlin' and this appears to be a common issue.

• The Bad News - The root cause is an internal transmission seal that dries up and shrinks thereby preventing proper pressure buildup. Probably a $4.00 part, but you have to tear down the tranny to replace it.
  
  
• The Possibly Good News - Some people have corrected the issue using a product called Trans-X.
  
  Source
  

Here's an Amazon link. one can has 55 packets of Rocket Fuel. One can will last you a really long time. https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Products-Rocket-Fuel-Diplay/dp/B000GZOGP4

I second this. Try using this B3C Fuel Solutions 2-024-1 Mechanic In A Bottle 24 oz. Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHS25OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NDjGzbDH7J2EK

I don't have any engine codes now. I've seen various ones while I've been troubleshooting the engine when things have been disconnected, etc, but none that come up normally. Is this stuff the oil additive you're talking about?

If you are overdue then get an addtive llike the prolong one.

https://www.amazon.com/Prolong-Super-Lubricants-PSL15000-Transmission/dp/B001DKV5H8

You have a 5-speed automatic transmission. CVTs do not have gears, so if your shifter says P-R-N-D-3-2-1 or something with numbers below 'D' then you have a normal transmission: in which case it takes Honda DW-1 automatic transmission fluid. If for whatever odd reason you do have a CVT you should be able to tell by looking for the transmission dipstick/fill plug it will have a label right on it that says CVT (Then it would take Honda CVT-1 fluid). If no label, pull the dipstick and if the fluid is pink or red (or off-red brown [old dirty fluid]) then you can be sure it's regular ATF: use Honda DW-1 fluid. For every drain and refill you will use almost 3 quarts. If your fluid is dirtier/old then you may have to do this process over a couple times (almost 3 quarts each time).