Reddit mentions: The best optoelectronic lamps

Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.

Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.

Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...

Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.

Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.

You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.

Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.

This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.

There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.

EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...

Part | Name | Price (without shipping)| Processing + Shipping time
---|---|---|----
PCB | Knock off B.face R X2 (kit 2, northern inswitch LED) | $33.00 | ~ 3 Weeks
Case | Winkeyless sandwich with LED diffuser | $73.00| ~ 4 Weeks
Switch Stems | 70 R3/R4 Zealio stems purchased on /r/mechmarket | $21.00| ~ 1 Week
Switch Casings | 65 Gateron milky black switches | $26.00| ~ 1 Week
Switch Springs | Sentraq 80g gold springs | $9.99| ~ 1 Week
Switch Lube | Techkeys krylox thick formula | $9.00| ~ 1 Week
Led SIP sockets | Keyclack Gold plated SIP Sockets | $10.00| ~ 1 Week
Clear Stabilizers | Bought from 1upkeyboards but I dont think they're currently available | $12.00| ~ 1 Week
7U Stabilizer (to use wire from) | Keyclack Individual 7U Stabilizer | $3.00| ~ 1 Week

Other stuff:

• Keycaps are GMK Hydro base and space bar kit from keyclack, you might be able to find a set on /r/mechmarket. I paid $162.00 during the GB.
  
• I bought the Switch top removal tools, I tried to make a pair but it didn't really work out, so I just paid the $7 for the one's I know would work. They are easily worth the cost in avoided headaches.
  
• I made a switch mod station out of some wood and angle iron (ask if you want a picture).
  
• Here is the configuration of my case options from winkeyless.
  
• The only significant shipping cost was like the $25 for the case from winkeyless in korea.
  
• The stand that goes under / at the back of the case was a bit too high for me, so I made a shorter one out of some walnut I had around. The angle is about the same as a pok3r now.
  
• On Sentraq's website the 80g spring is listed as bottoming out at 80g, but I thought they felt a little heavy for me (compared to my mx clears on my pok3r) so I did a ripometer test and they were actuating at 80g and bottoming out around 95g. idk if its the stems or the springs or what. I'm not sure how I feel about it. I haven't soldered the sip sockets down yet and I haven't decided if I should switch the springs out with something lighter or not. I'll probably wait another week or two before deciding for sure, I think I may leave the springs in though, just because desoldering is a pain.
  
• I have some 2x3x4 led's im going to use in the SIP sockets once I figure the spring situation out. I think I got them here on Amazon
  
• I lubed the rails on the housings and stems, and the center thing on both as well, I did not lube the slider at all though. I lubed both ends of the springs. I lubed the stabilizers anywhere they would rub. I used a small paint brush for applying the lubee.
  
• Here is the base, fn1, and fn2 layers
  
  Typing Experience:
  The keyboard is really quiet between the lubed switches and acrylic case, I also don't bottom out too much with as heavy of springs as I have in them. The tactile bump isn't as pronounced as MX Clears but is still definitely noticeable. I do feel it is a better typing experience than my pok3r. My first impression when typing on it was that it was very similar to what I imagine Topre would feel like, although I haven't tried out Topre before.. so it was kind of just what I guessed based on my information about the switch. My fingers do get tired if I do a ~10min typing test, I typed this out in about 45 minutes and my fingers don't hurt right now, but most of this was a lot of copying and pasting. Tired fingers is honestly the only reason I would switch the springs out. My ideal spring would actuate around 65 and bottom out around 85 so it would be fairly easy to actuate but then would be like a soft pillow keeping me from bottoming out, but I don't know if that spring exists.
  
  So the total cost of the entire keyboard was....
  $358.99 including keycaps....
  
  or 196.99 without keycaps, which is more reasonable... I guess.
  ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  
  If anyone has any other questions feel free to ask!
  I think I about covered most of it though.. lmao.
  
  

• Fire TV Stick, which is a lower-cost alternative to the awesome Fire TV. (think Apple TV, but actually good)
  
  
• Raspberry Pi which is a tiny fully-functional/fully-featured ARM computer.
  
  
• Arduino, which is an easy-to-use electronics prototyping platform, great if you're interested in learning how to make your own electronics and whatnot. (you might also want this, this, this, this, and this. Should be less than $40 altogether, though you could also probably find like a starter kit that comes with an arduino, book, and components.)
  
  
• Huion drawing tablet, great for if you want to do digital art. I haven't used this model specifically, but I do have the (bigger/more expensive) Huion 610 Pro, which I love.
  
  
• Amazon Prime student was like $40 IIRC, not sure if that has changed though.

I've decided to mod the stock LED light that comes with the Fluval Spec V. I know I'm going to need to upgrade to something with more power eventually, but in the meantime I wanted to do some experimenting. I ordered a color assortment of 5mm LED's from amazon for like $2 and I plan on replacing some of the daylight white LED's with a mixture of blue and Violet. I want to see if a low light coral can live under the stock light with this mod. I'm hoping that the blue and violet LED's will provide a better spectrum of light for the coral to photosynthesize even if the wattage output is crap. I believe these 5mm LED's are .07 watts each. There are 37 LED's total -27 on the daylight switch and 10 on the moonlight switch. I'm interested to see what combination will look best. I think I will start with 12 White, 8 blue, 7 violet. Or maybe 14W, 7B, 6V. I will be adding pictures of the process and final result as soon as the LED's arrive.

TL;DR I thought it would be interesting to see what effect I can produce with the stock light with some cheap LED's and a test of my soldering skills before I decide to buy a retrofit kit with 3 watt LED's that cost $70+

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

> Hampton Bay 5-Light Matte Black Chandelier

That's certainly better than what I have. And the price is fantastic. It's just that . . . I'm not in love with it. You Know?

What are you thoughts on something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Pendant-Ceiling-Chandelier-Korea/dp/B00LXP7ENW/ref=sr_1_20?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1406206957&sr=1-20&keywords=cree+100w+5000k


It's energy efficient, since it's an LED. I just. I wonder what it says about me as a person, you know? I don't know. I keep second guessing myself, and I don't want to end up as that "Home Depot" guy, or whatever.

Just find a nice supplier of LED bulbs, resistors, and battery cases. My cases came from RadioShack and were about $1.50 each, and you can get a bulk pack of 80 LEDs and resistors off Amazon for $9. There are very few blasters that can't fit an LED into their front ends somewhere, and as long as there's enough space in the blaster for your batteries, the wiring real estate is almost negligible.

Of course, it requires a lot less tinkering if you can tear down an existing flashlight and fit it in the case, but where's the fun in that? :P

Edit: Also, that Rayven is beautiful. I need to get myself a Rayven.

Hi DIY!

I'm trying to assemble a list of products (via amazon prime for time and location reasons) to do a project with my partner on his birthday Sunday with a budget of $25-30. I think he'd get excited for (and I can manage!) LED paper circuits. Luckily we have a soldering iron and multimeter around the house. Here are the products I've whittled down to with no idea at all what I'm searching for except advice from tutorials:



Copper tape - Amazon link HERE


LEDs - Amazon link HERE


Batteries - Amazon link HERE


Do these choices look okay, and if not would you suggest any alternatives? Thanks so very very much for any help!

You can get them with power supplies on amazon for 21.99. those are 50w, but with the power supply might still be a better deal. You can find 100w white led's with power supplies from the same seller.


For my next light I'm going to do a 7:2:1 red/blue/orange all 50 watts. My blue-heavy LED panel kept my plants notably shorter and thicker than my other lights, I definitely recommend exploring that.


edit: btw I'm pretty sure it was in one of your first posts that I found out about COB led's. It was when I first started soldering this light. When I found out that I could have used way less lights I looked down at the 150 3w LED's and died a little bit inside. Then I ordered some blue 10w COB's to go on there.

What led's are you wanting to use?
The fact is what you will need to do is find out how much power the led's will require to run each, than multiply that by how many led's you require. Example:
THEASE LED'S https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-200pcs-Emitting-Assorted-Resistors/dp/B077XBFZH9/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541525214&sr=1-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=led&dpPl=1&dpID=51r07AcVK3L&ref=plSrch

Use 20ma each. So if you use 70 of them it will be 1400ma or 1.4 ampre just for the led's. The micro will require a quarter amp. And then you will need transistors to turn the led's on and off because the micro can not source them and lastly power limiteing resistor loss. So my best guess you will be looking at a 3 amp 5v power supply to run this project using the items I listed.
And YES you can wire the power supply in parallel so one plug can power the entire project.
You can look around and find better led's, or use less of them, etc. I just used this as an example. That's all. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can assist you any farther.
P.s. that math is if all the led's are on at the same time!

I'm using 5mm LEDs for the GC. The pads are super sensitive to getting stripped, so I strongly recommend globbing on solder and connecting the two points, then heating the solder and removing the original LED with tweezers. After that, just pop some solder braid on it to suck up the excess and you're ready to get the new LED installed. As for what LEDs to grab, these are similar to the ones I picked up - https://www.amazon.com/Emitting-Diodes-Waycreat-Assorted-Arduino/dp/B071HV5F6L/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1523238346&sr=8-8&keywords=multicolored+5mm+leds - as a general rule of thumb for console LED mods, grab clear bulbs with colored diodes. Colored bulbs are super dim and the color looks washed out, you get way better results with clear ones.

I used these LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785DLY5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I then wired the long wire to a pin in the Teensy. he short wire I soldered to a resistor. The resisters were all soldered to 1 wire than ran to the GND pin on the teensy. Here is my LED code:

​


void matrix_init_user(void) {
DDRD |= (1 << PD7); //init D7 (Blue)
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD7); //turn off D7
DDRB |= (1 << PB5); //init B5 (Red)
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB1); //turn off B5
DDRB |= (1 << PB6); //init B6 (Green)
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB6); //turnoff B6
DDRD |= (1 << PD5); //init D5 (Yellow Green)
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5); //turn off D5
DDRC |= (1 << PC7); //init C7 (Yellow)
PORTC &= ~(1<<PC7); //turnoff C7
}

uint32_t layer_state_set_user(uint32_t state)
{

// if on layer _NAS, turn on D7 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _NAS || biton32(state) ==_NS2) {
PORTD |= (1<<PD7);
} else {
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD7);
}


// if on layer _ACT, turn on B5 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _ACT) {
PORTB |= (1<<PB5);
} else {
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB5);
}

// if on layer _NUM, turn on B5 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _GUI) {
PORTB |= (1<<PB6);
} else {
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB6);
}


return state;
}

//Lock Key Functionality

void BeginLock(void)
{
lock_active = true;
lock_searching = true;
PORTD |= (1<<PD5);
}

void LockKey(uint16_t keycode)
{
locked_key = keycode;
register_code(keycode);
lock_searching = false;
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5);
PORTC |= (1 << PC7);
}
void EndLock(uint16_t keycode)
{
lock_active = false;
unregister_code(keycode);
locked_key = 0;
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5);
PORTC &= ~(1<<PD7);
}

bool process_record_user(uint16_t keycode, keyrecord_t *record)
{
uprintf("KL: kc: %u, col: %u, row: %u, pressed: %u\n", keycode, record->event.key.col, record->event.key.row, record->event.pressed);
if(keycode == KEY_LCK) // lock key is pressed.
{
if(record->event.pressed == 1) //Do nothing special on key down
{
return true;
}
else //On key up, toggle on/off
{
if(lock_active == true) //If lock is active then turn off
{
EndLock(locked_key);
return false;
}
else //if lock off, turn on
{
BeginLock();
return false;
}
}
}
else if(lock_active == true) //Lock is active, need to execute steps that don't involve lock key
{
if(lock_searching == true && keycode <0xFF && record->event.pressed == 0 )
//Lock key pressed, which turned on search. Key needs to be valid. On key up, set as locked key
{
LockKey(keycode);

return false;
}
else if (lock_searching == false && keycode == locked_key) //if the key has already been set, ignore the button press
{
return false;
}
//if searching is false or its a quantum key, then continie on.
//if the locked key has already been set, a normal button push will add to the effect
else
{
return true;
}
}
else //Non-lock related keypresses
{
return true;
}
}

Would a bundled set like this be usable in my situation?

My ideal value resistors should be 150 Ohms and 100 Ohms. This bundle comes with only 200 Ohms. At that rating, will the LED's be bright enough under a 5v power supply? If it is, then I will just order this set as it is far cheaper than sourcing out the parts individually.

You mentioned 400 Ohms... can I wire up 2 200 Ohm resistors in series to get to 400 Ohms?

Difference in W looks like 36 versus 650. Is that a measure of the effectiveness of a grow light?

What do you think of this http://www.amazon.com/Galaxyhydro-Greenhouse-Indoor-Hydroponic-Lighting/dp/B00PH1MQV8 -- it looks like an older model so that might be a dumping price.


What do you think about a more concentrated source like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NT1JO2?psc=1 versus an array like this http://www.amazon.com/MOKOQI%C2%AE-Advanced-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Growing/dp/B016NT1L36 in terms of effectiveness?


Is there no possible (practical) way to take something like this http://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-LED-Matrix-8x8-Display/dp/B007ZK4I10 and set the brightness very high and use that as a grow light?

Hey, thanks for asking the question, for your information, base model Diverge TM 2s do not have LEDs, when purchasing a Diverge TM 2, there is an option to add LEDs but it costs extra.

I believe that you are part of the group of people that got upgraded from Diverge TM 1 orders to Diverge TM 2 right? In this case, your order was upgraded to the Diverge TM 2 without LEDs. (I think that is fair, the base model Diverge TM 2 already costs more for me to manufacture than the Diverge TM 1 and should cost extra but the upgrade was free)

For your information, if you wish to add your own LEDs at a later date, then you could look for "2x3x4 box type" LEDs, and "0805 resistors" or "1/8w resistors" for what you need.

Below is an example shopping list of stuff from amazon to get white backlights set up:

• LEDs
  
• 100ohm resistors (SMD)
  
• 100kohm resistors (SMD)
  

I believe they were 1/4W resistors. I got the LED's from a kit on Amazon, came with 30 bulbs and resistors for like $4. I used this handy calculator to help figure out how I wanted to wire it and what I would need.
Let me know if you end up doing it, I'd love to see how it turns out.

Amazon.

Edit: should also note, I have them powered through a 12v BEC from an old quadcopter pdb but any 12v buck converter will work

EDGELEC 200pcs 10 Colors x 20pcs 3mm LED Light Emitting Diode Assorted Kit 29mm Lead Clear Round Lamp White Red Blue Green Yellow Purple/UV Ultra Bright LEDs Bulb +300pcs Resistors For DC 6-12V Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785DLY5T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Nw1PDb57466VW

So I own a RGBLED ring. It's ws2812, x16. The exact product is this., except only the bottom sample picture on that page is accurate, because there are 2 slots for power and 2 slots for "power signal ground".

I'm trying to figure how to light this thing up. I am having major trouble finding any resources on powering rgb led rings anywhere, and I have NO clue how to code anything regarding this device using python. The website that this thing originates from is incredibly useless, and offers nothing in the way of help. It's like these products get made and shipped out, but they're all only tailored toward people that already know what they're doing, and it feels like there's no way for noobs like me to bridge the gap.

I'd really appreciate any advice or resources anyone has. This is NOT a LED strip, it's a ring, so I feel like things might be slightly different with this. Unless they're the same thing internally, but I don't know because I can't find any damn info on it.

I can upload a couple of pictures of the ring if need be.

EDIT: Product name = "RAINBOWPIXEL RING - 16 X WS2812 5050 RGB/W LED WITH INTEGRATED DRIVERS"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746J4YQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEDs are extremely inexpensive - Example

.
.
.

As far as the installation goes, I do believe it is relatively easy to install them, pending your ability to solder. I will link a tutorial on how to install them.

.
.
.

LED Installation

.
.
.

Hope I helped!

It really depends on what your end goal is.

If you want to stick with Atmel, then buy an Arduino or Arduino clone. This will cost you ~$40 or so depending on which model you decide on. With an Arduino, you can use the Arduino libraries, or write low level code (I suggest at least trying low level code). If you decide you want to build projects with stand alone AVR's, then it will be a good idea to purchase a flash programmer as well ($10 to $20). The chips that come with an Arduino contain special code that lets you load new firmware over a serial link (called a bootloader). Raw chips lack this, so if you want to program a bare chip, you need the tool. You can even just use the tool to flash the arduino bootloader onto a bare chip.

If you aren't sold on Atmel, TI offers a very competitive option in the MSP430 Launchpad ($10). There is a port of the arduino code and IDE for this board (Energia), so you can still get the arduino experience if you wish. Otherwise, learning to program MSP430's at the low level really isn't that tough once you get a feel for it. Besides, the cost, a big advantage TI's offering has is that the dev board contains a built in programmer, which can be used on external chips. When you move to a stand alone chip in a project, you can program the bare chip by running 4 jumper wires from the dev board to the project....so there is no extra programmer to purchase. If you were to replace the ATTiny in the project with a MSP430G2210, you could accomplish the same thing and program it with the launchpad

Once you have a dev board, I would pick up a solderless breadboard and jumper wires (less than $10 on Amazon). Based on your project idea, I would also either buy a small resistor pack (~$10) and some LED's, or something like this. That would get you started towards building your project on a breadboard.

I bought the greeen lens colored ones here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5HL0PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uGOUzb3PT6PTV The green colored lens is rated 2.3 V and the clear one is rated 3.1 V so i ordered the clear one, and waiting for them.

The green lenses looked really pretty with kaihua golds, but the light was so faint, that yau couldnt see the green at all with the keycaps. I tried with a couple other leds (white, orange, blue lens) that i have of the same brand and they shine just ok.

Monitor: Asus 29'' Ultrawide Monitor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENCTVDS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lights: Daffodil Touch Lights - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5DZJJU/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mice: Razer Mabma (I think need to double check) and Apple Magic Mouse

External Hard Drive - Seagate Backup Plus 3TB (Totally worth it!)

Keyboard: something dell?

Computer(s): Running on screen-MacBook Pro Retina Mid 2012. 4GB Ram, 2.3ghz processor.

Custom build - Will post details when I'm home!!

I will take a better picture when I am home too!

Hey there JVC amp and turntable buddy! I'm rocking the sa-77! That said I would reccomend upgrading the speakers first, I upgraded to KEF Q100s, they go for around 250-300$ and on my JVC sound amazing! Also if your lights are out put in some LED bulbs!

You have 3 choices in LEDs, traditional PWM 12V based which I think you're better off buying from amazon.com because they have tons of kits. This for example, also note that these strips are non-addressable AKA no unique color per LED.

WS2812B/WS2813 are the common choice for addressable LED strips. You can get 1m/60 LEDs<$10 from ebay, but again amazon has options. (Strip) and (controller).

Then there's the APA102 an addressable RGB LED which you don't want because they're way more expensive.


Although I guess from the time submitted and the fact you want to buy from ebay means your shopping from Australia?

I've bought all 3 kinds and every WS2812B (1m/30 and rings I've bought worked fine. I've yet to try the APA102 and the traditional 12V RGB strip.

CR2032 Button Batteries and 3 LED Lights per battery taped on to the top/bottom of the discs with Packing Tape.

edit: See through discs work the best (Champion, Proton)

The led/resistor (resistor is the only thing really needed) makes it think the top screen is connected.

LED is colored, i used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XBFZH9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

its fine, easier to ask sometimes.

Honestly, i don't like it. Here's why: all you customize is bunch of leds, you can just buy a goody bag(http://www.amazon.com/microtivity-IL188-Assorted-Resistors-Colors/dp/B0060FGA8A/ (comes with tons of resistors, more than you need) from amazon and that makes your entire thing pointless. Also it's damned pricey.

If you included a real selection list of things like different sensors(acceleromters, gyros, magnetometers, preassure, level, light, sound), different actuators(motors, servos, etc..), assortment of indicators(led, ir, 7 segment, led matrix/grid, lcd screen), shields(usb host, xbee, motor drive, relay), ic packets(regulators, logic gates, op amps, shift registers, etc...) and stuff like that at reasonable prices then I could see it being something great, but otherwise i just think it's pointless.

Thanks! I got them from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5DZJJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They seem to be out of black though

Also not OP, but these are ones that I got that will work with click bar switches. But like /u/angelartech said, they must be as flush as possible to the PCB for them to work.

Yessir! Chanzon 100 pcs 2x3x4 mm White LED Diode Lights (Square Rectangle Clear Transparent DC 3V 20mA) Lighting Bulb Lamps Electronics Components Light Emitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5HL0PO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I actually haven't figured out which specific LEDs to get, I've only narrowed down which profile to get (went with 2x3x4 as they have more uniform lighting than 3 mm diamater ones). I'm open to any suggestions if you have any, otherwise I was going to get whatever's readily available like this.

Yep, I soldered the LEDs myself. I used the Chanzon Rectangular 2x3x4mm LEDs (recommended by I:C) here which are available from Amazon or AliExpress.

That depends on the LED, the battery and the circuit. Let's say you get a low current LED (20 mA - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UWBJM0Q) and an average 1632 battery (130 mAh - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00102JQIE). That's drawing 20 mA from a 130 mA-hour battery so you just divide. You'll get about 6.5 hours of light from it though probably a bit less since you'll want to size your resistor to allow a bit extra current for a brighter light. You would do better getting a 2032 battery - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DORK4NE. It's only a little thicker and would give you 225 mAh.

Edit: just realized you posted a link to a product. I have no idea how long that would last but i would guess 6 hours would be an upper limit.

Had them for years, go them from amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dimmable-LED-Desk-Lamp-Adjustable/dp/B00J5DZJJU

I would use LEDs and a small 9 volt battery to keep size/weight down. you could add more 9 volts to increase capacity.

http://www.amazon.com/microtivity-Clear-White-Resistors-Pack/dp/B004UZCMRK/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1314079567&sr=8-11

To get the 9 volt voltage drop with these LEDs, you would need 3 parallel wired sets that were in series of each other.

It's a LED bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPV4CSH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jZcOBbGP3B8D1

ok, I've switched plans to solder an entire system using these LEDs of lower voltage. Now I only ask, will two 1.2 AA batteries be enough to power them and do I need resistors?

Not including the 3d printer or filament, or my soldering iron and other necessary tools:

LEDs: $12.57

Resistor 47ohm: $6.12

Diodes: $5.59

Gateron greens: 17@ $.90/per