(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best outdoor powertool parts & accessories

In general, I'm a "preventative" type guy. I don't like killing anything that could affect the ecosystem (which is basically everything). I know that sometimes it's not possible to just use preventative methods but here's my $0.2

Most hornets/wasps are very territorial, so sometimes putting up things like this will help. It's worked on a few client's homes. It doesn't even have to be as fancy as that. I've seen some people put up Chinese lanterns painted gray that have had success. Not sure about subterranean wasps/hornets though, they might be tricker.

Bees are generally good (pollinators) so if you have a big yard, you could "encourage" them to move to a part of the yard that you frequent less. Things like planting flowers that bees love can keep them occupied elsewhere. Or if the problem is serious, find a local beekeeper. I've worked with a few to move hives, so that way the bees keep pollinating, but there's less chance of incidents (though in general bees that can only sting once are pretty difficult to make angy enough to sting you)

Snakes I'm not too sure about, as I pretty rarely encounter them (and most of the snakes here are nonvenomous). Those sonic emitter things seem to basically do nothing, as my dad put them all around his garage and he's still found pine snakes lurking about (as well as their food sources). My best guess would be to try to reduce/remove potential food sources. So combating mice, chipmunk and rat populations would probably help. Things like sealing up garbage better, putting down traps, etc. Also, snakes are exothermic, so reducing the number of cool places they can go (like hidden places under rocks), and sunbathing areas (areas like rocks or completely unshaded patios) might help, but I'm guessing not to a very effective level.

Blades: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PQ2AXW/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_tr_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

If you can stock these, and price point it within $5, I'm in.

> Do you think surveys, and similar forms of communication, are good or bad?

I think it's terribly impersonal and unsuccessful. You're essentially throwing a form at an existing or potential customer saying, "here, fill this out". Instead, I'd be much more impressed with doing the things that you're doing. Getting out and talking to people. I know labor is expensive, but why not leverage the knowledge and passions of your younger workforce, 1 hr every couple days, to scan the social networks and interact with the community to help them solve their problems using your products?

Now, I've never been, nor will I ever be, on Facebook, or any of the other major social networks. However, I will say this. You guys need to find a way to inject yourselves into the conversations. If you can somehow detect that someone from the QCA posted a message like, "I need to put down fertilizer this weekend.", that would be a perfect opportunity for you to directly reach out to that customer and say, "hey, K&K here, we have a ton of that stuff at a great price, and while you're at it, don't forget about grub treatment. also, stop by and speak with (insert name), and they'll give you a great deal on aerator rental". See where I'm headed here? Hold a discussion with them, just like you would out on the street. Traditional advertisements simply don't work any longer.

Look over the posts in /r/quadcities over the last couple months. You'll see people who need help finding things, from apartments, to restaurants, to activities, to health care, banks, bicycles, etc. They're all reaching out for personal interaction and recommendation.

So there's something for you to figure out. Maybe there's someone over at /r/advertising or /r/marketing that has done something similar.

This is a good start, and should keep you busy for a while. The main things I would add are long tweezers:
http://www.amazon.com/Bonsai-Tweezer-and-Blade-Tool/dp/B000O560FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368835403&sr=8-1&keywords=bonsai+tweezers

I use mine all the time. The other thing you'll need is cut paste. These are the two kinds I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Joshua-Roth-6044-Bonsai-Paste/dp/B000X36W7O/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368835488&sr=1-3&keywords=bonsai+cut+paste

http://www.amazon.com/Joebonsai-Bonsai-Pruning-Compound-Kiyonal/dp/B000NJFLHA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368835488&sr=1-1&keywords=bonsai+cut+paste

I use both kinds regularly, and wouldn't start a project without having both handy.

These and what you've already listed makes up most of my kit. FYI - 3.0mm wire and 3.5mm wire can be pretty useful too. If you're on a limited budget, maybe swap out the 1.0mm for 3.0 and call it a day.

A root hook is useful too, but if you're getting a tree that's already potted, you can get away without one for awhile.

Here's a free item to add to your kit - a long wooden chopstick. Super-useful for potting, helps tamp down soil into hard to reach places.

Also, if you're not planning on doing major pruning, you can easily get by with just concave cutters and some nice shears. Knob cutters are amazing, but unless you're cutting back major branches, they can be an expensive "nice shiny tool" in your toolbox.

A note on tools. You absolutely get what you pay for. I've had a set of imported japanese tools for close to 20 years that was pretty expensive at the time, but they still work almost like new. Cheaper tools generally won't last nearly that long.

EDIT: Oh yeah, you'll need a wire cutter.

Sounds like you're caught in the classic divide between car camping and backpacking. Mostly depends on the type of terrain you're hauling over. If its a rocky trail with elevation changes I'd say you're out of luck. But people do haul things like deer or large packs into or out of the back country. Mostly they use atv's but real mountain men who do it by hand basically use glorified travois with wheels. Here's a few options. (note: none are cheap)

Farm and Ranch Cart with folding sides

Carrix backpack Trolley

Packwheel back country hauler

If i were in your shoes I'd sort through the totes and turn it into a backpacking trip or just cut my loses. With a family of 6 it sounds like you have 5 little pack mules. A mile may not seem like much but when you're hauling gear it stops being fun pretty quickly.

I found this out the hard way carrying a sizable air mattress a few miles into the woods. the extra 6 pounds and setup were not worth the type of sleep we had.

A mile hike with a log of gear means you're going to have compromise between enjoying the camping or enjoying the hike out there. One of those is not going to be fun.

I HAVE THE SAME BIKE!
Mine is a GS450TX


TL;DR = fix bike fairly quickly and just ride :)


I hope this helps.

(INCOMING WALL OF TEXT!)

2 years ago I cut my mufflers off and mounted Emgo Shorty's. I also replaced my air box with Uni foam pods. I re-jetted the pilot from 17.5 to 20. I moved the main jet up from 115 to 122.5. I briefly cleaned the carbs with the spray parts cleaner, set the air mixture screws to 3 turns, and reassembled the bike. It ran like crap because I took so many shortcuts. I spent a couple weeks riding and fighting with the bike then I parked it for winter. 2 years went by and I didn't even want to deal with the crappy state my bike was in so I left it parked until we moved (better school zone for kids).

Once we got settled I brought my bike home and started tearing it down.
I spent a couple weeks doing the following:

• Downloaded manual = https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=2370B62DDF9F0C6B%211334&authkey=%21APM7hx6Q2ynLu-A
  
  
  
• Properly cleaned the carbs (soaking them for 12 hours in original Pine Sol (50/50 mix with water) cleaned them better than any other parts cleaner I've used in the past). All of the rubber on the carbs were in excellent shape, so I lucked out there. Rinse with mild soapy water then hit each part for 1 minute with toothbrush. Rinse with water and reassemble. Adjust air mixture screws to 2 turns out.
  
  Bench-sync slide/butterfly valves PDF Guide = http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/gs450_carb_cleaning_guide.pdf
  
  Parts = https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1982/gs450t/carburetor
  
  Rebuild = https://youtu.be/w16in05ANN4
  
  Soak = https://youtu.be/zDkOgnPidPs
  
  Bench-sync = https://youtu.be/AS77T2CUsjI
  
  
  
• Changed Jets to: pilot = 22.5 / main = 130
  http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/suzuki_450_GS450S.html
  
  
  
• Carb boots + o-ring were still in good shape so I left them alone.
  Test boots for leaks = https://youtu.be/XzjSEYB9RDU
  
  
  *Modified Uni foam pods: 1) removed half of the inside lip with an knife so the air intake circuit wouldn't be partially obstructed 2) Temporarily restricted Uni pods by taping a ziplock bag around the sides and cutting the bag away from the back end so air intake would be smooth.
  
  
  
• Removed gas tank and filled it with a 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar & water for 24 hours (be sure to remove gas cap and petcock and tape closed). Drain mixture from petcock hole, take a picture of 1lb of rust chunks and post on Reddit for easy karma :) Fill tank 25% with water from garden hose and shake for 1 minute solid. Drain and repeat x10. Ok, last time add 1/2 cup of baking soda/powder to neutralize vinegar. Rinse clean.
  Clean tank = https://youtu.be/UpaGo_nq5Rk
  
  
  
• Test petcock vacuum before reinstalling. Suck in vacuum tube and plug with finger. Test Reserve, Fuel, and Prime settings. The latter should be the only one that allows air to flow without sucking on the vacuum tube. My petcock's diaphragm was ruptured so I replaced it. Pro Tip: don't by the cheap $20 replacement from Amazon. It is crap and constantly leaks fuel on all settings once fuel begins to flow... even when no hoses are attached. Find the OEM replacement for $45 and move on.
  
  
  
• Install new fuel/vacuum/vent hoses on carb. Also get a cheap kit from Amazon that has an inline fuel filter and cutoff valve. (This will make draining and carb maintenance easy) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXH6Z7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tse1CbD0V0DY3
  
  
  
• Test battery charging system = https://youtu.be/njky7cNEdYU
  
  
  
• Change engine oil = https://youtu.be/Opqbbqfxmsk (use Lucas semi synthetic 10w-40 to aid with shifting due to wet clutch)
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KWGA10?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
  
  
• Buy a Seal Mate (or make from plastic container) to fix fork seals if dirty = https://youtu.be/8wlzfoVroSY
  
  
  
• Change fork oil = https://youtu.be/81hWzXOAvww (use Lucas semi synthetic 10w if under 200lbs, and 15w if over 200lbs. Also, when you refill fork oil compress forks completely, with springs removed, and fill to 6 inches from top)
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDW7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pye1CbGHFE87B (buy locally at O'Reilly's cheaper)
  
  
  
• Change tires = https://youtu.be/D8MFXZr36hs
  (I found a great deal on Kenda Dual Sport K761's at http:/denniskirk.com Front = 100/90-19. Rear = 120/90-17.
  Tools needed = Spoons with 2 Rim Protectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZN5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QEe1CbCMX9JBM
  Balance tires easy = E-Z Tire Beads Motorcycle Kit, Ceramic Balancing 2 oz Front + 2 oz Rear. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VOAOSDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hDe1Cb8QTNKYF
  
  
  Other notable links:
  
  The GS Resources = https://www.thegsresources.com/
  
  GS Forum = http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/index.php
  
  Bike Cliff's site = http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
  
  Parts = https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d3f2caf8700230d8b4bf8c/1982-gs450tx-parts
  
  
  *** After all this maintenance, my bike starts easily, sounds incredible, shifts wonderfully, is very reliable, and a hell-of-a-lot of fun!
  
  
  ~Best of luck friend~

Go to DoMyOwn.com and get a good preemergent. Preemergent stops new seeds from growing for the prescribed period. Most of these weeds will die each year after producing seed. A common preemergent in the US is Prodiamine. Liquid is more cost effective, but granular is easier to apply on large areas with a spreader.

If you let the weeds die at the end of the year, and apply the pre emergent especially during late winter or spring when the seeds germinate, you can cut down on the vast majority of the weeds. It will take a few years to get to a lush green grass. Even professionals won't be able to get you to a weed-free state in one year. You have to reduce the bank of weed seeds ready to germinate in the soil. And that takes time.

Any time you see the weeds reaching into the sky with their little flowers, you need to mow that down before they go to seed, or you will be starting over with a fresh seed bank. Keep the broad spectrum herbicide going too prevent them from going to seed.

For a yard that large, I would go as far as to recommend a husqvarna robot lawnmower. It is expensive up front, but for years of not having to mow the grass, and always having a perfect cut, it is worth the investment. I have it running in my yard and I am very pleased. If you buy it directly from Husqvarna, they have options to do the installation of the wire for free, which can save you a ton of heartache.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GPEKSK2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's were I got the mesh from. As for the tank itself, I actually got it from one of my customers whose tanks I take care of as a sir Issac Newton day gift lol. She's quite the character. The light I already linked you. I'm using ADA aqua soil as a substrate. I found some seiryu stones on ebay for cheap, but that all scaping stuff. You'll come up with your own scape. The original link I sent you has all the information on how to mod the spec V for shrimp. Let me know if I can help you in any other way. Good luck and sorry about your shrimps =(

These are the shelves I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A0ZFRW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wheels are plastic and snap together. If you can find a shelving system with wheels that are really wheels, like hard rubber library car wheels or heavy duty casters that mechanics use to move their toolboxes, then I would think they would be just fine. Also, the wheels aren't screwed in, they just slide into holes in the bottom of each leg. They have a lot of positive reviews at amazon, but I wouldn't buy them again.

These http://www.amazon.com/Weber-70360-Locking-Caster/dp/B00JSVRNOI/ref=sr_1_54?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1425341758&sr=1-54&keywords=casters

are very similar to the casters that came with the shelves.

I would suggest something more like these that I have been considering replacing the old wheels with:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Caster-Swivel-Bearing-Capacity/dp/B003E7ECMI/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1425341997&sr=1-9&keywords=casters


Or just go to your local home improvement or hardware store and explain what you want and why you want it. Sometimes they can be helpful

Allright, here goes.

What I would do is aim for [something roughly this shape](https://i.imgur.com/gwSfsSJ.jpg]

What I'd do is cut according to this sort of plan and use an anglegrinder with cut-off disc to chop the tang out (marked in red), then use a dremel (Marked in blue) for the fine cuts. I would then round off the shoulder of the blade with a round chainsaw file to remove the risk of stress raisers.

Once there, I'd use a Warding File to file in the little notch step down at the bottom of the tang, from a rough squared-out cut , to become a round circle along its length. That's going to become your Pein, when the whole thing is assembled.
I'd then put that pein part in a flame - ideally a blue gas flame, wrapping the blade in a damp cloth to ensure its not getting hot. you'll ideally want to get that part glowing red-hot. What that'll do is completely blow the temper on that part of the tang, so its no longer hardened at all. that'll let you pein it over later.

Then I'll take two pieces of steel, curved into arcs and I'll clamp them down, and start to drill the centre - that will depend on the blade of course, but what you want in effect is a slot, for your since its from a blade that's probably going to be a () shape, or maybe even a <> shape.

you'll use that warding file to slowly widen the drilling, taking it from two holes side by side into a rectangle, then widening it and shaping it to match the blade cross-section. Once that's done, repeat on the second one, to sit on the other end of the tang. For it, you will probably want to use a small 4-inch square-cut file to get that to fit. You want to use a square so that the pommel end guard doesnt swivel around at all.

that's then topped off with a little pein block which serves a double purpose - it makes it easier to repair if it ever has a problem (just file it off and put a new, smaller block on) and, as that part of the tang was filed round, you just need a drill to make a round hole, instead of a rectangular hole. (also a small pein is easier to do - just clamp in a vise and hammer over like a rivet. Having softened the metal by getting it glowing red earlier, you can probably do this part cold, so no torches needed.)

lastly, I'd then make a two-piece wooden grip, the bread around the tang in a sandwich, in effect, out of beech or similar hardwood (though poplar should do for that, and its easy to carve out the slot for the tang in.

I'd make that a bit thinner than you expect it to be - over-bulky grips are a common mistake - Glue it together, and wrap it in fine cord with hide glue and then I would follow this fantastic tutorial guide from Peter Johnsson to wrap a section of fine vegetable-tanned leather round it, wrap that in cord, and have a beautiful leather hilt at the end.

A good pinpointer is extremely helpful if he doesn't have one already, I'd suggest the Propointer 1/2 if you're on a budget, if not the Garrett Pro pointer AT (Which is also waterproof and so is easily cleaned). Also a strong hand digger (like this) makes life alot easier when locating targets in ground with alot of rocks or roots.

EDIT: Beware of fake Pinpointers if you do end up getting one, always get them from trusted Garrett dealers like Regtons.

OK so the spring/coil unit wouldn't need to be hinged. It could be two legitimate pieces (his + hers), in the same way that a king bed can be made from two twin's today. They'd still both go within one fabric/foam wrapper. You'd clip them together before you zipped the whole thing up. The zipper's a neat in this case because you'd still put fitted sheets on the whole thing, and they'd be hidden even more.

Do the springs come from China in mattress shape, or it is pure spring metal packed for density. I'm trying to imagine those expensive containers docking in Portland/ San Francisco. So in most cases it's assembly in the US (or Canada). I had previously imagined you'd receive drums of wire, and make coils yourselves.

You joke about getting into the mattress business :) I'd previously been sketching designs for a standardized sofa and chair assembly 'model' also imagining soft coverings coming from the far east, and being assembled at home. In that case the sofa frames (say about three or four standard designs would be made from 2x4 (or similar) locally, but have a mechanism of tightening the frame within the fabric cover. That would allow no external zippers, but still a taught product that could be home assembled. Specifically the wooden frame could be tightend whilst being assembled by virtue of a ratchet jack - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TPYX9O - Either that was built-in, or is in-situ long enough for some of the wooden bits to snap "home". again the soft coverings could be ordered from a catalogue and delivered by UPS in a box, the wooden frames would be made on a jig in a local factory, and delivered through regular furniture channels or direct from the factory. The arms would clip on much more simply, and probably be modular in themselves versus the base. They may or may not come complete with the soft coverings. You get the added benefit that the whole construction thing can be reversed to got larger items out of smaller apartments or high-rises.

I'm just a software guy though : You're my only contact in the furniture industry :-P

Just a note, be careful using carb cleaner, or straight 4-stroke gas (with no oil) for this. 2-stroke engines rely on oil mixed into the gas for lubrication. Carb cleaner has no oil, and can wash the oil off the cylinder walls, running the engine with no lubrication.

If you need to try something like this, it's better in some ways to use a small splash/spritz of oil-mixed, 2-stroke gas.

Yes, I'd interpret your test as showing that the engine is not properly getting fuel. You can clean and rebuild the carb. Or you can replace the carb.

Replacing the carb is simpler than disassembling and rebuilding it. It's also more likely to be successful. For ~$15, replacing the carb is probably worth a shot. One example:
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-BVM200FE-Craftsman-Weedeater-545081857/dp/B07597HVX8

Yes, ethanol-free gas should help avoid gumming up the carb. But you could still add stabilizer to the gas, as cheap insurance.

I think rover is the wrong term here.

Autonomous Mars tractor would be more accurate description of what I'm thinking of.

Only needs to do a few jobs really well, can be "over built" by space standards spending mass fraction instead of design time. And it only needs to last 2 years until a mechanic comes to replace it's consumables like seals and any fluids, burnt out computers, whatever.

Otherwise it's just a box with wheels with standard tractor attachments. No fancy body or seats at all. Shovel on the front and a drill on the back. Future missions could bring more attachments, trailers for it to tractor, ect.

A KISS farmers tool made space worthy, not a NASA rover made farm worthy, minimum number of moving parts necessary. Possibly even remove the suspension entirely and make it a skid loader. Very few things are more simple to design and build than an electric skid loader.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skid-steer_loader

Two foot think solid rubber tires are going to take a LONG time to degrade even on Mars. BFS means you can bring those stupid heavy tires. They are worth the effort since you can use them for years if not decades.

https://www.amazon.com/Summit-Proof-steer-Tires-Bobcat/dp/B00DU4VFVG

Though might want to work with NASA's rubber experts to make sure out-gassing isn't a problem or some other edge case issues. Point still stands if you aren't trying to cut corners on mass you can KISS your way out of most the problems that have plagued rovers in the past.

Ive had good results with This one from Stihl, but it was cheaper at Ace (just make sure you check the size). First time using it, even on my overused chains its nice and sharp. It even comes with a nice instruction set if your just learning.

:D reminds me of when I got started almost exactly.
I have that exact sluice and still use it for test panning when I do test pan. I also bought a 48" Keene hand sluice, which I use all summer long for classifying the material from my dredge.
Each person has their preference in gloves. I do not like to spend a lot of money on gloves. But need something that still has grip when my hands are wet. I like these types of gloves personally. They will last around 2 weeks 8-10 hours a day in the water with the dredge.
I would say bring some Jet Dry or Dish Soap if you get super fine gold it will float right out of your pan. Extra tweezers and maybe snuff bottles.. You will eventually decide which kind of pan you prefer, I personally have come to the conclusion 1 LARGE Green pan, and one smaller black pan. Throw some lead shot into that paydirt and practice bending over in awkward positions because when you are panning at a creek or a river its never ideal unless you just get in. For shoes I buy whatever pair of shoes are $10 at walmart because they're going to get destroyed.

Good luck!

Well, I guess there are two issues.

1. Getting the heat out of the building
   
2. Providing direct airflow to humans to aid in evaporative cooling (sweating)
   
   Floor fans will do #2 but they won't do #1, at least not directly. They'll blow the air around, but not necessarily in or out of the building (although that will naturally happen to some lesser degree when the air blows around).
   
   To get heat out of the shop, if it's the type of unfinished space I'm imagining, you could just buy a gable fan that's meant for attics. You would mount it up in the "attic" (which I'm assuming is open to below) on the wall and it would blow the hot air out of the building.
   
   But you mention running a duct. Perhaps you aren't allowed to modify the building? If that's the case then yes, you could run a duct the way you're imagining. Something like this with this are designed for that purpose.

After a bit of googling I found the part I need! It's a pump element (not sure what that means to be honest but that's okay). Thanks for the help

I can link some of the parts from amazon, the gun just needs fittings for the hose and the nozzle that goes on the end.

https://www.amazon.com/Forney-75126-Quick-Coupler-Socket/dp/B003X5MKSO/

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Washer-18717-Pressure-Stainless/dp/B01LYYLZ4P/

I'm pretty sure these are all you need for the spray trigger but I also bought this QD set for the hose and such:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DTBC67D/

Also I needed to buy this one fitting for the connection from the pressure washer to the hose, its kind of overwhelming at first but it is a great setup now. Easy to setup and take down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010OPPMYY/

I don’t have that one, but I bought this one last year (same price), and it worked great. Excited to use it again in a few weeks!

Brinly PA-40BH Tow Behind Plug Aerator, 40-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026T4716/

here is some more info. there is the Haddon Lumbermaker style mill which turns your saw into a miter saw... works best for cutting beams. then there is the alaskan style mill which makes it more like a bandsaw and works well for slabs. if you already have a big chainsaw, you can be milling pretty decent boards up to the size of your bar minus 6" or so for <$200. if you need a big saw too, you'll be closer to $1000 ish. it's slow, hard work but gets the job done. you can also get to logs out in the woods that would be inaccessible for a bandsaw mill. if you want to make a lot of boards it's better to rent/buy/contract a bandsaw mill (Woodmizer, Logosol, etc) these go much faster, are more accurate, and you waste less wood with the narrow kerf (0.035 bandsaw vs 0.375 chainsaw)

No thats not what I was thinking.

This one is more like what I was talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chain-Mill-Model-G777/dp/B000AMFY90

Here is the desktop version of your link