(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best ph testing tools

Cost Analysis

Tent Setup

$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent

• Holding up well, easy build. Is not 100% dark, light leaks outwards from spots along the zipper and pinholes but no light leak into the tent during dark. Perfect size for my light.
  
  
  $325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
  
  
• I cannot say enough about these lights. I had to run them anywhere from 50-75% during veg to prevent light burn. Great coverage for a 2x4 tent. Nothing but praise 10/10 would buy again.
  
  
  Climate Control
  
  $100 ($90 + $10)4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter + Ducting/clamps from ACE
  
  
• This puppy can SUCK, I have to keep it on the lowest setting to prevent the pressure inside the tent from dropping (need to work on my passive intake next grow). Carbon filter works great. Lowers humidity in a pinch. It keeps my humidity at or below 50%, which is what it maxes out at after a watering.
  
  
  $21 Osculating Fan Purchased on a flash deal
  
  
• I have it elevated about 3-4 inches on a box. Running and osculating 24/7. It pushes air, not a jet engine though.
  
  Already on hand: Box Fan
  
  
• Had one from years ago. Sometimes I open the tent and blast this on high right on level with the buds just go shake out the leaves, gets a bit crowded in the scrog and I'd like to eliminate any humidity caught between leaves sticking together. Think you can scoop one from Walmart for like $15 bucks, $20 max. I also have room at the right edge of my tent where I normally keep the oscilating fan to drop this in and use it in a humidity pinch.
  
  $25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
  
  
• This puppy does well. I use the first setting, usually can run 16+ hours on a full reservoir of H20. No filter which keeps cost down, just need to clean it one or twice a week with a brush for the hard water deposits. 5-10 minute process.
  
  $45 Dehumidifier
  
  
• This was a bit of a mistake purchase. I wanted to test and see if a small model offered on amazon (this looked to be one of the best for sub $50, and has the biggest holding tank out of them all) could put in any kind of noticeable work in a tent. What I noticed is that it will be able to roughly maintain humidity at times, after I run the exhaust fan to lower the levels. When the lights are out and the temperature drops, this thing has no chance. Go with a full size dehumidifier or rely on the dry Colorado air + passive intake + duct fan. I was struggling with humidity issues during the cold of the winter, now that I can have my windows open my ambient room humidity is usually 40% or below.
  
  $18 4" inline duct booster fan
  
  
• Also a mistake purchase. Does not move a lot of air. Had plans to use this for an airflow/passive (not) intake system but it's not worth the electricity cost to run this thing. I'd stay away.
  
  
  Meters (Ph, PPM, Soil, Temp and Humidity)
  
  $18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
  
  
• Worth it to get the wireless monitor so you're not opening the tent all the time)
  
  $13 Ph Meter
  
  
• Great little Meter. Calibrated nicely and seems to be holding true. Details about storage below under the calibration Solution
  
  $12 TDS PPM meter
  
  
• Quick measurements, came with a little leather storage pouch. Can't recommend against it.
  
  $9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter
  
  
• Does it's job well, reads soil Ph and moisture well and pretty instantaneously. I wouldn't recommend it for getting detailed light readings but it responds correctly.
  
  
  Ph Control and Calibration
  
  $9 Ph Control Kit
  
  $14 Ph Calibration solution
  
  
• For calibration/life of the tip:I store the tip in a bit of 7.0 solution that I pour into the cap. Good to have on hand for calibration.
  
  
  
  Plants / Growing Medium
  
  $80 Clones - $20 from dispensary. here's a link to the strain page and the clone page. Don't believe seeds are available.
  
  $8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
  
  
• Do their job, hold up well. I cut the handles off to make watering under the scrog easier.
  
  $40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog purchased from the local grow store. Ocean forest was sitting around.
  
  $7 for 30ct Starter grow bags
  
  
• Do not recommend, breathe terribly, water stagnates even with modifications. Had to feed lightly and often, and really monitor dampness. Needed these for the outdoor garden anyways)
  
  $14 - Scrog net: I believe it was a 25 or a 50ft roll of 1"x1" plastic garden fencing from Home Depot.
  
  
• Unfortunately I can't find a link but it's pretty common. I cut out the middles to make them 2"x2" openings, 1x1 seems very difficult to work with and would block a lot of light.
  
  
  Nutrients
  
  $100: Cyco 1 Litre Bottles
  
  
• I have a local grow shop that I purchased a lot of these from. The 1 litre Cyco nutrient bottles ranged from $10-$18 and I have 7 different nutrients, call it $100
  
  
• Vegetative State: Grow A & B + Dr. Repair + Silica
  
  
• Flowering State: Bloom A & B + Potash Plus (+ Dr Repair and Silica every other feeding)
  
  $20: Key To Life - Uptake
  
  
• Great for calcium uptake. Was told that this could basically replace calmag.
  
  $45 Cyco Grow XL Super Phosphoric Acid
  
  
• Definitely an 'extra', not cheap for 100ml but I think the potential yield improvement from this phosphorous bomb will cover that cost, especially over 3-4 grows which I expect to get out of the bottle. Also states it helps with Fe, N and K uptake.
  
  
  
  Miscelaneous Stuff:
  
  $15 - random stuff from Walmart, etc.
  
• Eyedroppers, duct tape, zip ties
  
  $6 Spray Bottles
  
  
• Did not use these much, only very early during transplanting
  
  
  
  So to total that all out we're looking just over $1000 that I spent.
  
  
• Could have kept it under $950 if I had not purchased the small duct fan or dehumidifier.
  
• Also: Soil and nutrients for $205. Could work that down to under $150 by dropping a couple unnecessary yet desirable nutrients.
  
  
  

I am not entirely sure, but blitzing is a post fermentation process where you blend the peppers with vinegar and xantham gum so they are ready to be mixed into a base for a sauce or added to a sauce? I have seen the term too but could some one clarify it a bit further?

The ph level below 4.6 would be considered pantry and shelf safe. Refrigerating sauces is a safer way to be sure, but if you get a sauce below that level you would be okay to put in a pantry for a year or so. A cool dark place preferably. My sauce rarely last long enough for me to know how long ita good for, or to obtain an average. By the time I bottle and give to family, friends, and myself I dont have to worry too much. Extra peppers I dry and make powder or I freeze for cooking and sauce making in the future during the off season.

There is two main ways to drop ph in a recipe. Acetic Acid (vinegar) or citric acid (lemon or lime juice). Combine both for a balanced flavor or use one or the other. I recommend vinegar mostly. Really helps with the consistency and flavor. Too much citric acid can make it hard to palate, but then again too much vinegar can do that too.

My advice is to refrigerate and invest in a nice ph meter instead of strips. Basing food safety on a colored strip which may be off due to the color of sauces is a little risky. You can find ph meters on Amazon for 10-20 bucks that work well or go big and get some fancy ones for more. I have never used a super fancy one.

Digital Ph Meter Tester 0.01 PH Accuracy Water Quality Tester with ATC 0-14 Measurement Range with Plastic Box for House Water,Hydroponics,Aquariums,Pool,6 pH Buffer Packets calibration(with battery) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGKSPDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cnfxDbC22V4DZ

This is one I recommend.

I thought I'd share my experience for the community, and hopefully my experiences help or encourage others to give this a shot on their own. I had absolutely no experience growing anything when I started, so if I can do it, so can anyone else!

I've got an equipment list of the stuff I'm using since it took me a long time to figure out what to buy. This doesn't include the $1.50/week for RO water from the local grocery store, the electricity, or the other stuff I ended up buying afterward for my clones.

No grow tent or ventiliation is needed for my scenario since I have full access to a basement. It's perfect since there is a water heater and a boiler in the same room so the temp is always pretty constant, there is plenty of CO2 from the gas that the appliances burn, and the humidity is also pretty constant.

A few of the mistakes I made that I'd fix next time:

• Buying a heating mat for germination/clones. I only got 1 out of 5 seeds to germinate, and thankfully that one turned into a good plant. I think heat was where I went wrong since I also tried to do clones without a mat and none of them rooted. When using the mat I bought, I had much, much better success.
  
  
• After transplanting my germinated seed, I let that plant go too long in a small container and it got a little root bound. Should have transplanted sooner.
  
  
• I was in the veg stage longer than I think I needed to. Went on vacation in the middle and that screwed up my schedule a little bit, but I think I'd be better off with less veg time for the next plant
  
  
• Buy a better pH pen. I cheaped out on that and I've never gotten it calibrated correctly, so I've been using the dropper/eye test method with the General Hydro test kit that comes with the pH Up/Down. That method seems to work just fine, but it's kind of a hassle.
  
  The images have some details about my grow, but I'll be happy to answer any other questions folks might have.
  
  Item | Cost | Product Link
  ---|---|----
  Seeds (OG Kush Feminized, 20ct) | $80 | Marijuana Seeds NL
  Coco Coir | $17 | Kempf Coco
  300W LED Lighting | $80 | GalaxyHydro
  Plastic Pot | $0 | Craigslist - Free
  Light Timers | $12 | Light Timers
  pH Tester | $18 | pH Pen
  pH Up and Down | $16 | General Hydro
  Jeweler's Loupe | $6 | Magnify Me
  Nutes | $35 | Canna Coco 1 & 2
  Perlite | $13 | Black Gold
  CalMag | $17 | Botanicare Supplement
  TOTAL | $294
  
  
  Also, THANK YOU to everyone in this sub. There is a ton of info out there about growing, but this place is the best location I found for timely info related to my new hobby.
  

The PS2 pads aren't the most durable things in the world. I'd recommend taking it apart and giving it a good clean. Ideally, I'd recommend using some electrical contact cleaner (my personal preference is WD40 Specialist). Clean all of the contacts on the board, take all the rubber membranes out and give them a gentle clean with a toothbrush in some warm, soapy water. Let it all dry and re-assemble. See if that does the trick. Spray some contact cleaner into the end of the controller cable that plugs into the console too. Give it a quick visual inspection for bent pins.

In terms of the console, it's a bit difficult to say. It's a PS2 slim which means unlike the phat models you can't just swap out the control/memory card ports for a different one, at least not easily. If you're confident enough to take the console apart, then as before give the contacts a good clean.

From what you've described, it's definitely salvageable. Just try some of the easy, non-intrusive stuff before doing anything more drastic.

WD40 Specialist Contact Cleaner: https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD40-Drying-Contact-Cleaner-250ml/dp/B00KPUBO2S/

Go buy a 4x4 tent, ideally gorilla but can get cheaper.

https://growershouse.com/gorilla-grow-tent-4-x-4?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp6055&sc_intid=6055&gsacid=952890155&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw4jvBRCJARIsAHYewPMdnaA3pI_kaqr7hDDtRfQzZ5-nIJ_myYwy_RzlSfPlTYAKJuHyn5MaAotOEALw_wcB#!

Order the light


https://growershouse.com/horticulture-lighting-group-hlg-600w-qb288-v2-r-spec-led-kit?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp15744&sc_intid=15744&gsacid=952890155&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw4jvBRCJARIsAHYewPMp8yJqTkQMEmC5Db2_3fMT73eIoyEVEXZMPbEIJIB_wpvPAEW537saAsyFEALw_wcB

Inline fan


AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6, Quiet 6" Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LMT4Db95YN9QZ

Carbon filter


VIVOSUN 6 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, Pre-Filter Included, Reversible Flange 6"x 18" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01731MLFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HNT4Db23PB3M8

Flex duct

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting for HVAC Ventilation w/Two 6 Inch Stainless Steel Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UCCMW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPT4DbNQFABKE

Fan


SPT Wall Mount 16" Fan with Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y8CN45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oQT4DbV2ANXJG

Temp/hygrometer

AcuRite 00613 Indoor Thermometer & Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge, 3" H x 2.5" W x 1.3" D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013BKDO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xRT4Db8N3X0K6

Rope hanger

iPower GLROPEX2 2-Pair 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Clip Hanger (150lbs Weight Capacity) Reinforced Metal, 2 Pack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iST4DbF0EQJAK

Light timer

BN-LINK 7 Day Outdoor Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer BND/U78, 125VAC, 60Hz, Dual Outlet, Weatherproof, Heavy Duty, Accurate For Lamps Ponds Christmas Lights 1875W 1/2HP ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9RK4VV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wWT4Db5Q74NPA

PH meter

Digital PH Meter, PH Meter 0.01 PH High Accuracy Water Quality Tester with 0-14 PH Measurement Range for Household Drinking, Pool and Aquarium Water PH Tester Design with ATC (2020-Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08197LX6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXT4DbZ8TF1W

Tower of Power

Hydrofarm TMTOP6 Tower of Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAL58I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f1T4Db88GD2GE

Loupe

VIVOSUN 30X 60X Illuminated Jewelers Loupe Foldable Magnifier with LED Light for Jewelry Gems Watches Coins Stamps Antiques Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VK1LVKX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62T4DbR2KDDY4

Measuring cups.

Garden Smart Measuring Glass (1, 1 ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073C6S1LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o5T4DbQFTS4FY


Fox Run Brands 4892COM 4-Ounce Mini Measuring Glass, Regular, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4CQWI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_95T4DbTWPWNMP


Get some short heavy gauge cords

Still haven’t said what medium, so I can’t recommend anything there for nutes or pots. Since your new, I’d consider soil and airpots.

You’ve got lots to learn, buy the grow encyclopedia.

The Cannabis Encyclopedia: The Definitive Guide to Cultivation & Consumption of Medical Marijuana https://www.amazon.com/dp/1878823345/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9RIDjvgDjnPoc

I’m sure I forgot something, it’s off the top of my head, you’ll always be running and picking up a trinket or two. That said, this will get you far down the path.

Need to decide medium and I can help point you towards genetics. Probably clones to start off.

Here is a high quality ph pen... hey it’d even on sale ;)
Apera AI209-T PH20 Value pH Tester Combo Kit with 8oz Calibration buffers (4,7,10), 4oz 3M KCL Storage Solution, Probe Cleaning Brush & CalBox https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z6LF91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTG3CbNQKCQMQ

Here is ph up and ph down
General Hydroponics pH Control Kit Adjust for 8oz pH Up and Down GH Includes 5 Pipettes and Bonus Hydro Empire 4oz Measuring Cup Bundle. The Best GH p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DKG8PM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvKcT39dGtnss

You can get a cheaper pen... but that one is VERY good quality and has all the calibration stuff you will ever need. Good luck my friend :)

im know nothing about stepwell living soil, but super soils should feed it for at least most of its life, may have to help in flower, but youre right to not feed them yet.

i dont know your budget but you can get meters that check ph and moisture in soil for $10 usd. they are shitty but it is a ph tester for cheap. they make digital ones for about $25. you can get digital ph pens for water for cheap too i personally would avoid the cheapest ones. blue lab makes quality testers but you wont find a new one under 100$

cut the light back a bit. do like 18/6 or 20/4. plants develop more roots during night time. its not like they dont when the lights are on, just when lights are on plants prioritize storing energy as to spending it. some strains get stressed as well from 24 hours light.

dont let your water sit for 4-5 days. get a air pump and stone and bubble it. this thing is good enough to bubble the water in a 5 gallon bucket. or if you can get a chlorine filter.

definitly test the soil and your water going in to see where its at. as you just water, the ph of the water shouldnt matter to much. but if your soils to acidic and youre adding acidic water, or if its to alkaline and youre adding alkaline water, problems compound. you probably just transplanted into to rich of soil as super soils tend to be very rich. plant got stunted as a result. if its been 2-3 weeks since transplant they dont look dead so they should recover, just will take some time

Oh for sure, here's where I'm at (copy pasted from a comment I made a while back):

• Hortilux 600 watt HPS
  
• Galaxy Grow 400/600W Ballast, always on 600W, never turning on Turbo mode either
  
• Vivosun 6" Reflector Hood (can't find a link anywhere)
  
• 6" Can Fan Max-Fan
  
• 3 x 3 x 4.5 Secret Jardin Tent, can't find an accurate link since my model is discontinued
  
• Honeywell QuietSet Oscillating Fan HYF290B, for strengthening branches - running 24/7
  
• I'm using my 4" fan/ducting as an intake fan, directly in front of my AC unit's cold air flow
  
• Bluelab PENPH, I aim for 6.0 to 6.4, but I don't put too much effort into accuracy, sometimes not checking at all
  
• Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, no other additions to the soil
  
• General Hydroponics nutrient line, along with Floralicious Plus in the mix
  
• Eve Room 2, purchased because it's compatible with Homekit
  
  
  I've had quite a few set ups in the past, and this one is my favorite by far. It's made in such a way, that I can close all the doors and it would be unnoticed. If it's dead silent you can hear the 6" fan running, but with the AC running you can't notice it at all. It's great!
  
  ​
  
  So my set up, is also a closet, that is slightly bigger than my tent. So in order to manage heat better I may take my tent out and put mylar on the closet walls. I like having the tent so I can have clones/saplings in the closet with light, and have my flowering ones stay in complete darkness. I'll try to take a photo for you too!
  
  ​
  
  I also, just ordered my 480W Quantum Board light, which arrives on May 29th! I know I could do more to better manage heat and not need a new light, but this seems like an opportunity to upgrade so I'll take it.

Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.

I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889774&sr=1-2&keywords=vivosun+48

The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.

Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889906&sr=1-3&keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen

I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!

I like the filter swap idea. Did your master come with the filter cleaner adapter for the hose? If not, it is a plastic $5 part. Works perfect for cleaning filters, way faster than a nozzle attachment.

I think I bought something like this for a pH meter: https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking-2020-Yellow/dp/B08197LX6H/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=ph+meter&qid=1574834052&sr=8-8

Just make sure to soak the meter sensor in distilled water for 30 seconds before you put it away.

Amazed at how cheap these are now. I am a science teacher, and meters like this used to cost five times that much just a little bit ago.

Happy soaking.

PH is very important, get the cheap visual kit from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Splendid-General-Hydroponics-Indicator-Accurate/dp/B017XTG6CG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541357103&sr=8-4&keywords=PH+test+kit+general

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Mix your nutes at 50% of the recommended rate per Biobiz

Get in the habit of flushing, your schedule should be:

​

Feed, Water, feed, water, Feed, flush then repeat

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Your pot should be drying out in 48 hrs, so you are either feeding or watering every second day

Read this:

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Weeks 1 - 3. Once you've started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistols.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it's energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it's life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it's time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.

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> i basically just need a light and thats it? if i want to grow autoflower only

oh boi... alright here we go.

youll need duct fans for both ventilation and heat dissipation, especially if you go with HPS/MH lights 600/1000watts will require reflectors with ducting so you can connect to it. This will need to exhaust out of your tent. Then you will need a intake fan coming preferably from outside. Youll most likely also need a Carbon filter attached in series to your exhaust fan. Your light will have a ballast as well, which creates a good amount of heat so plan for that to be located outside your tent. Youll also need smaller fans in the corners so you can keep a good air circulation going (hurricane fans are great). Also consider using T5 lights when starting your seeds off as your higher wattage lights are not good for seedlings. Also get a few supplies like gorilla tape and duct clamps and anything else you might need to secure everything together.

When it comes to growing, even if you are only doing autos youll need smart pots, fertilizer, promix HP, perlite plus both vegging and flowering nutrients. Have access to PH up and down solution, and also get a Ph Pen + PPM meter (TDS).

Ive only linked amazon, there are probably other local options for you.

Point taken. Thanks.

Is this the model you would recommend? Amazon link.

Ultra pen seems a little overkill for the 2-4 plants I plan on growing.

I do plan on using RO water. In another thread someone mentioned making all pH adjustments to the water after adding the nutrients as the nutrients change the pH significantly. Would this be your recommendation as well?

Thanks for all of your advice. I don't believe this will be easy at all; which is why I'm doing extensive research before buying anything. I greatly value the feedback I'm getting here and trust the experience you all have in this subreddit.

I bought this one and some calibration solution.

Whenever I use it I do a triple point calibration first. The most important part of any measuring instrument is the calibration. Cheap meters' calibrations drift with time but it takes days. I calibrate when I heat my strike water.

Be patient, let the meter sit in the solution for at least a minute, stirring a little and make sure to make all your measurements at calibration temperature. Don't trust the automatic temperature correction, just take all measurements at the same temperature.

Cheap meters can normally be stored dry but it will definitely affect the lifetime of the meter. You can use storage solution but you have to be certain about the type of storage solution for your electrode.

Good to hear. I needed reassurance after reading the reviews. I mainly got this one because it had free 2 day shipping with prime: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PECAQ12/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I can tell most of the cheap ones are the exact same thing with different labels and prices, but the exact same housing, and I'm sure components. It's pretty obvious that there are really only 3-4 models out there for the cheap Chinese ones. I just find it humorous.

This looks nice and being able to replace probes is great but, an alternative opinion:

If you actually follow the instructions carefully and follow a good procedure, you can get consistent results to 0.01 resolution with a $20 meter. On the one I have you always rinse with distilled water and "suck with filter paper" which I take to mean "shove the edge of a Kim wipe into the crack between the plastic and the probe" after each reading (and before the first one).

I calibrate with 6.86 and 4.01 before every session and a couple times recently it read the buffer solution exactly w/o any calibration. I trust the readings I'm getting. They seem consistent. Actually the one I got is $13 at the moment. I just bought a spare.

HECOTRAX Digital pH Meter, High Accuracy with Range of 0.00-14.00, Lightweight, Auto Calibration, Tests Water/Aquarium/Pool/Hydroponics, 6 Pack of pH Buffer Powder+1-year Guarantee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSWCTDO/

You could consider a small carbon scrubber. This will eliminate the smoked smell from getting out of your apartment. Depending on how big the room you normally smoke is, will depend what size carbon filter you will need. With the fan to run it, will cost you about ~$180 for a bedroom or small living room.

I know not cheap, but there will literally be no smell in the room 20 minutes after you have smoked. And smell will never make it out of that room.

The fan will last 5+ years, but the filter will need to be replaced every few years.

This filter would be perfect, for a bigger room maybe go to the 6x20" size (they make other sizes not listed in this amazon link), or whatever one they make near that.

http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-701265-Intake-Filter-12-Inch/dp/B007ZU748Y/

For fan, the Cap Valuline 6", or Hurricane 6" fan will work fine.

edit: if this is too "ugly" for you or your family. A Honeywell type HEPA filter with carbon will also work, however the amount of carbon they use is very minimal compared to what I linked, and will need replacing every few months. However you are going to pay a premium for the HEPA filter part of it. And that part will not do anything for smoke odors.

If you are a DIY'er you can make your own also, but its almost not worth it because its very hard to pack the carbon without a paint shaker type machine. So it doesnt end up being nearly as efficient at removing smells.

Also Ozium original scent works pretty well for masking the smell in the meantime. During Spring, Summer and fall. If you get a window fan blowing out and make sure there is negative pressure in your apartment, this should suffice. The negative pressure part is key to that plan working.

I also have 4 pair of these showing up from Amazon today since they were only thing available when I ordered a few days ago (even the $50 ones were sold out at the time): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTL5M5T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

According to the Q&A they should fit adults too but I can let you know for sure when they arrive here in next couple hours if they actually fit. If you want a pair or two just let me know, offer still stands.

Unfortunately only snagged 2 pair at Frys so don't have any extras of the one size fits all version.


Edit: Yeah these "kids" ones fit just fine.

Of course the standard is blue lab but I don't have that money and it is very delicate. I use the Etekcity brand this and I use the calibration liquid often, both the 4 and 7. It stays pretty darn accurate but you can calibrate it very easily.

Probably your nutrients are pulling down your pH causing a nutrient lock out. Read this article on GWE explaining pH. At a minimum you need one of these pH kits. It would be better if you also got one of these pH meters. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B003PD2N8Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522556221&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluelab+combo&dpPl=1&dpID=41cFQNnE0AL&ref=plSrch

Yes, these are expensive. Yes, they need to be maintained and calibrated regularly.

This means spending 5 minutes every week maintaining the probe. I have only lost one probe in 5 years and that was after i smashed it.

As for expensive, this is a piece of gear that will last a long time and will be extremely useful in any level of grow. The first time this saves you from a hot feed or solves a ppm/ec runnoff problem on the spot, you'll be glad you spent the cash.

I bought this one, the same that CC uses:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Essentials-09-410-020-pH-Meter/dp/B008BHYD3Y

It's very useful if you're into hydroponics to keep a stable pH as well. Worth it.

I got this one for $12 and I'm pretty happy with it.

Sounds like you did really good research before starting your first tank! The things you are seeing are all normal and should resolve themselves over time as your tank cycles. I have very soft tap water also so I add a small mesh bag of crushed coral to my filter or just hide it in the tank behind a plant, much easier than constantly having to add remineralizing additives after every water change. You should get a TDS(total dissolved solids) and PH electronic testing pens, they are cheap and reliable.

Just make sure they're not knockoffs. I've read there are bad ones out there that are selling pretty cheap. I ended up getting 4 pairs on Amazon for $20. But, they're from the manufacturer that NASA recommends (https://eclipse.aas.org/resources/solar-filters)

Here are the ones I bought:

4-Pack Premium ISO and CE Certified Lunt Solar Kid Size Eclipse Viewing Glasses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTL5M5T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n8zvg9JP66AiE

I'm also making pinhole boxes with the kiddos.

Stay safe!

Use filtered water...no need for distilled. You'll need some storage solution for your pH meter (which must be used religiously... if the electrode tip dries out, your pen is doneski). You'll need a ppm/tds/ec meter to check nutrient concentration. (or get a pH/ppm combo meter... that particular one I linked is definitely worth the splurge).

Don't forget to calibrate your ph meter regularly(based on how often you use it) and dip the ph meter in clean water and stir to remove excess salts from building.

Cheap ph meter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G5BLJ20/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1495947851&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter+for+water&dpPl=1&dpID=411qy4N7ymL&ref=plSrch


Ph tester I would recommend if you don't mind spending the money:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CP5MQM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1495948086&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter+for+water&dpPl=1&dpID=31mXIvV0iiL&ref=plSrch

I bought one of these meters. You can find a similar meter cheaper, without all the kit. I wanted to solutions and such anyway, so I went for the whole thing. Works great.

I haven’t had to calibrate it yet. I have no storage solution right now so it sits in 4.1 buffer solution and I’ll turn it on while it’s still in the solution, reads 4.1 every time. When I’m done using it and it I put the cap back on with the 4.1 buffer solution it will go back to 4.1 instantly. First PH pen I’ve owned but this one is solid so far. Very professional packaging, when I get home I’ll pm you some pictures, opening up the case alone put my mind at ease.

https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-Value-Pocket-Tester/dp/B078NPH1W3

I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.

Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:

1. Buckets https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPJ4896
   
2. Lids https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072C3G5CJ
   
3. Hydroton https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KYYZ9DE
   
4. Nutrients https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
   
5. pH Control https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
   
6. pH/TDS Tester https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKMH86J
   
7. Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO9BY
   
8. Water tubing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DL0Y9O
   
9. Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YF4FI
   
10. Air Stone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9DL67H
    
11. Air Line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW
    
12. Growlight (Already own) Galaxyhydro 300w LED Grow Light Full Spectrum
    
    ​
    
    The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.

You'll need a ballast for those bulbs I believe. Those reflectors won't work either I believe. Something like this is a low tier example.

Apollo Horticulture GLK600GW19 600 Watt Grow Light Digital Dimmable HPS MH System for Plants Gull Wing Hood Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L3AQ1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f.Z9ybF5082RW

The four 600w would give you more coverage than a single 1000w. 2 600w is more than enough however and would put you at ~50w per square foot. You also might want an charcoal air filter. People like phresh filters.

Phresh 701265 Intake Filter, 6-Inch by 12-Inch, 450 CFM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZU748Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pa09yb0H1MSMH

I had that pH solution and it was really hard to use with any accuracy. Ended up getting this one, super easy and comes with the calibration and storage solutions.

https://www.amazon.ca/Apera-AI209-T-Calibration-Solution-Cleaning/dp/B077Z6LF91

I started with a cheap amazon one similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Hydroponic-Nutrient-Calibration-Solution-Included/dp/B00PECAQ12/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1499260097&sr=8-8&keywords=ph+meter

but I recently invested in a way better one.

https://smile.amazon.com/Bluelab-716441-Combo-Meter-Germination/dp/B003PD2N8Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1X27WXAWQLIVF&keywords=bluelab+ph+meter&qid=1572618587&sprefix=blue+lab+ph%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-2

It tells you once a month that it's time to calibrate it. Calibration is simple and easy.

Edit: Make sure to PH your feed water after the feed is in it not prior. Feeds will change the PH if you ph before adding feed.

Pretty hard to not cut corners with only a $100 budget, but doable.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Flora-Bloom-Fertilizer/dp/B01I4U0NYK?th=1 $28

https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Sensi-Cal-Mag-250mL/dp/B01D1Y9QAQ/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=calmag&qid=1554831886&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-11-spell $11.50

Buy the cheapest coco you can at your local store, costs me like $8 a brick.

https://www.amazon.com/XRZT-Waterproof-Spectrum-Natural-Dissipation/dp/B07P32ZDP9/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=cob+grow+light&qid=1554831956&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-18 $28*2 = $56

https://www.amazon.com/Tanice-Accuracy-Household-Aquariums-Hydroponics/dp/B07DC14DY6/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=ph+pen&qid=1554832246&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-19 $13

https://www.amazon.com/Root-Farm-Balance-Hydroponic-Plants/dp/B075QJGZH7/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ph+down&qid=1554832284&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-7 $7

Total $123.50

Someone did an analysis of those lights and found they were decent. You could get away with just one depending your space. I think they pull like 50W. The only things missing from this are pots, an exhaust (no idea what your setup requirements are), possibly a carbon filter if smell is a concern, and reflective material (cut up cheap space blankets if your closet isn't white).

I recently got This meter and it’s worked well for me. Calibrating was easy. It a really basic meter so it’s not super high quality.

https://www.amazon.com/VANTAKOOL-Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking/dp/B07JLWV73Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549716410&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+pen+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=41T-lwa5FHL&ref=plSrch




Your welcome

I've never used strips at all so can't comment on their effectiveness in DWC at all. I've only ever used a PH pen. I use a cheap yellow Chinese one from eBay for about £5 but I would not recommend it, i'm on my second. I'm planning on upgrading to this (this payday actually) as this is a good middle of the road pen.

If you can afford it i've been recommend a Bluelab pen time and time again, but I can't justify that cost just now.

This. You don't need to spend $100-200 on one of those Milwaukee ones. Even those need to be calibrated before every use.
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It's not as if you can accurately correct it if the pH is off... And while certain styles do lend themselves to certain pH levels supposedly, I've yet to be able to percieve a difference between a beer mashed at 5.2 and one mashed at 5.6. so yeah to miss that range (5.2-5.6) you'd have to be off by a factor of 10,000. Which is why you dont really need a pH meter that is good to rhe 0.01 decimal place... Only the 0.1.

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And while the bru'n water isn't perfect, it's good enough to not be off by a factor of 10,000. I hit my target (usually 5.4) 90% of the time... The other times im within 0.1. and this with this $12 meter. This metwr lasted be 3 years the first time... And i actually think it stoppes working because i used it some tomato sauce i was going to can and didnt cool the saucw enough (oops).
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So i bought another a few months ago. If theyblast 3 years, it would take me 60 years of brewing to rwach the cost of one of those Milwaukee's.

Yea, pinapple is highly active and prone to develop white kham yeast long term. One of the reasons I finally processed is that it kept building white kham yeast and I hot tired of scooping it out. It's totally safe, just looked yucky. One way to avoid this is ferment the pinapple separately. This is going to be my go to way going forward. Ferment pineapple for just a week or so.

Anyway, I got a pH tester at Amazon years ago. Looks like this.

Digital PH Meter, PH Meter 0.01 PH High Accuracy Water Quality Tester with 0-14 PH Measurement Range for Household Drinking, Pool and Aquarium Water PH Tester Design with ATC (yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLWV73Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jGf0DbAFSEWGZ

I got this one because the cheap ones aren't waterproof.

Oakton Waterproof pH1 EcoTster Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZSUN68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gh.kDbFSC9R47

This worked for me because it seems the issue was dust. This isn't always the case though, prolonged use can cause more permanent drift.

Make sure you use this cleaner, or similar.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JLWV73Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dud6CbZ9J7B33

I've used this one thru my first grow. Haven't had a problem, seems pretty damn accurate so far against the ink tests I got from my PH adjusters.

Is this the same as Deoxit? WD40 Fast Drying Contact Cleaner 250ml https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KPUBO2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ap3TCbK2EB4TJ

Just one of these cheapo pH meters, I've used strips and liquid testing reagent but I prefer getting a number and doing a calibration every year or so.

This is decent.

Just ordered this

http://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-BLU2300E-BlueLab-Combo-Meter/dp/B003PD2N8Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381325878&sr=8-2&keywords=bluelab+ph+meter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B06XTL5M5T/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

4-Pack Premium ISO and CE Certified Lunt Solar Kid Size Eclipse Viewing Glasses

Lunt Solar Systems

$35 + $10 Next Day

Here you go

https://www.amazon.com/CityFarmer-Hydroponic-Nutrient-Calibration-Solution/dp/B00PECAQ12/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=city+farmer+ph+meter&qid=1563129075&s=gateway&sprefix=city+farmer&sr=8-1

This one: https://www.amazon.com/VANTAKOOL-Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking/dp/B07JLWV73Z?ref_=Oct_CARAsinC_393271011_1&pf_rd_r=Z0BFSFYEVX6BQ74R42M2&pf_rd_p=ee32e637-71ad-5c35-a048-49bb70f82870&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=393271011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This phresh filter which I use on my intake claims to be able to filter pollen... although I don't have actual evidence:

https://www.amazon.com/Phresh-701265-Intake-Filter-12-Inch/dp/B007ZU748Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510700883&sr=8-1&keywords=phresh+intake+filter&dpID=41PGmCcgF0L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.ca/Bluelab-BLU2300E-Combo-Conductivity-Temperature/dp/B003PD2N8Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550546905&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluelab+combo+meter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017XTG6CG

dont get that generic brand ph pen get the apera

https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-AI209-Waterproof-Accuracy/dp/B078NPH1W3/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1520380541&sr=8-15&keywords=apera

I use this one. I can‘t complain, but it‘s the only one I‘ve ever used, so I can hardly compare.

most manufacturers state it on their glasses, also this fiasco https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Certified-Lunt-Solar-Eclipse/product-reviews/B06XTL5M5T/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=avp_only_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
If I had to guess the structure of the plastic is specifically designed and any cracks or creases ruins it.

Blue lab ppm/Ph is about $600CDN. Worth every penny. New pens are $80 if you break them or let them get dirty. I use 4x of them to reference off one another after proper calibration. Just my info, no experience with other meters. EDIT: WAY LESS MONEY On the zon https://www.amazon.ca/Bluelab-BLU2300E-Combo-Conductivity-Temperature/dp/B003PD2N8Q/ref=asc_df_B003PD2N8Q/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292938351042&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12192035815692660765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001463&hvtargid=pla-309645374056&psc=1