Reddit mentions: The best pin punches

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.

Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.

Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.

For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.

Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.

Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.

Here’s all the tools I’ve ever used on an AR, and some example links:
An AR15 multitool. This is the weird looking bar with a bunch of cutouts and hook looking things. This’ll let you tighten the barrel but for most handguards, the castle nut (for the buffer tube), and most muzzle devices.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFQJY9K/

The inner square cut is meant for a torque wrench, which is highly recommended, but not absolutely critical. You want one that can be set at least from 30-80 pounds. Make sure to look up proper use and storage (don’t store when set to a torque). There are lots of great videos showing the proper use.

Various sized punches, preferably with an index indentation on the end meant for roll pins. Protip: lube roll pins and the holes for a much better time, and go slowly. www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5JC2I8/

You’ll want a tiny mallet, with a brass end and a rubber end. www.amazon.com/dp/B0061G57T6/

Don’t use a vice on an upper or lower directly, they can take the beating of real world use, but are still thin aluminum and a vice will quickly fuck them up. I use a magpul bev block.

You can get away with assembly without a vice (I did in the beginning), but I really don’t recommend it. Lots of guys get away with the floor and a book, but that’s a quick way for unintended consequences and disappointment. You’re better off attaching a vice in the middle of a long plank and using lots of clamps to secure it down to a table or bench if you don’t have a proper worktable.

Your going to want various sizes of imperial and metric hexkeys/Allen tools, as well as torx for things like optic mounts, gas block, most hand guards, the grip bolt (extra long, don’t know what size) and various mlok attachments.

For some optic mounts (like the ultra lightweight aero mounts), an adjustable torque inch-pounds wrench like a FAT wrench are not just optionally recommend but mandatory.

Other notes:
Don’t forget to get about the lower end plate (holds in the spring and retaining pin for the rear takedown pin)

Get a pack of crush washers. These are use once then toss. Note that some muzzle devices don’t need or want these, but they are pretty safe to have.

Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 33MS / 64 Grease is THE standard grease for use on the barrel but threads, though lithium grease works fine, but be warned this topic can start forum wars.

Don’t use loctite on high temperature parts, instead use Rocksett if you feel the need to make something extra secure. At high temps loctite breaks down and can even act like a mild lubricant/anti seize. Do be aware any retaining compound can make it very difficult to get things off. Often rocksett needs to be soaked prior to removal. A dot of rocksett on the gas block screws and non-crush washer muzzle devices is sufficient. Just need a little on the last inside few threads.

Rifle stocks are up to personal preference. I have an adjustable mission first minimalist stock on my ultralight 22lr build, and a magpul moe fixed carbine stock (with extended pad) on my 5.56 lower. I found I just ended up setting the adjustable stock and leaving it, so I like the slightly increased weight of the fixed stock balancing the rifle better. I’d go with an adjustable stock at first to see what you like.

Have a look at JP silence captured buffer and geissele super 42 braided spring/buffer. Both are a great upgrade over a standard carbine spring.

For muzzle devices my knowledge is pretty dated. You can’t go wrong with a standard birdcage, a yankee hill phantom, or a precision armament afab mini, but there are exponentially more things you can stick on a muzzle than when I researched things years ago.

Do be aware of laws regarding barrel length, overall rifle length and various legal definitions.

Hope this helps!

As others have said, credit cards work great, so do razor blades to hold the detent pins down (cheaper than the $8 on this pin which im sure works great - but this pin could 'save' you money if you shoot the detent and spring off and cant find them)

Warning wall of text from a comment I made to someone else in your position, ill have changes at the bottom since I made this comment 3 or 4 months ago:

As others have said its really easy even if you have no experience, there are plenty of youtube videos for resources. An AR is by far the easiest firearm to work on. I started off in your position a few years ago hesitant to mod and now I barrel my own ARs, its addictive and very easy with the hardest part spending money on tools but deals can be had. Lots of great resources out there as well dont let it intimidate you - heres a wall of text of some tools you might want to consider if you're looking to assemble stripped lowers or do minor gun work.


I purchased this set of punches for less than $7 a few years ago looking to do the same as you but being on a college budget. You'll definitely want brass but steel/'chrome' punches have their place (peening roll pins). This is far from the "perfect" set and is chinesium but 4 AR builds, many other firearm disassembles (stripping 3+ glocks, 4+ M&P Pros as well as a couple Rugers to bare frame then back again) and 4+ years later they are still holding up (punches will bend, you can bend them back, especially the small ones, if they get deformed from striking you can file/sand them flat again) but if you have extra cash/are willing to spend more there are many options out there that are oriented towards gunsmithing specifically, I didnt have the money at the time for them and will wait until these give out or I come across something they wont work with before I purchase something else.

You may also want to look into a roll pin starting punch if you are building ARs (or anything that uses roll pins)

But I find Hemostat Forceps to work excellently for roll pins ('pinch' the pin in them, get it started, remove forceps and use punch) (you will not need this for installing a trigger, only roll pins such as a bolt catch)

Also if you're striking punches dont use a regular hammer (chips into your eyes arent good) I use a Nylon Hammer like this

There are other things for barreling such as torque wrenches and vices etc. but the above will allow you to assemble a stripped AR lower and have many other applications for gun work. Good luck any questions dont hesitate to ask.


Changes - I ended up buying the roll pin installer for the trigger guard (totally not necessary but saves time) and I killed all those punches after years of faithful service while in the current process of building an AK. But I highly recommend the hemostat forceps for the roll pin on the bolt catch. Assembling an AR might seem intimidating but you can totally do it, any questions totally ask

I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.

I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.

I don't think these are the roll pin starters, since they say they can be used to finish driving nails. If they were roll pin starters they would be hollow and pretty useless for nails. I think there are four pin punches and one large solid punch in this set. And pin punches aren't even the right tool for finish nails, every nail set I've ever seen is a center punch style.

Here is a set that has an excellent illustration of different types. It includes everything except the roll pin starter style, but you can see those here.

It's a few bucks, but I got bought both of the above within the last year and been very happy with them, and both are made in the USA. I really like the big Tekton set as it is pretty much everything you need for firearms, except the roll pin starters, and I've gotten rid of all my cheap ones.

I used something like this for the hammer - plastic end worked great. You can get something like this if you prefer metal.

These are the punches I used, they're great. Definitely recommend something like these.

Adding onto what others have said. (Just a disclaimer I've only built 5 ARs so far so I dont know if some of the cheapo stuff is as durable as the fancy stuff that others are recommending.)

I really like this armourer's wrench since the 1/2" drive is so close to the castle and barrel nut adapter. Makes getting the correct torque easier IMO. Usually you only need the castle nut and flash hider adapters for AR builds since most aftermarket handgaurds come with proprietary barrel nut wrenches.

A decent set of roll pin punches will help you install both the upper and lower. I like this cause it also comes with a nylon (i think its nylon) end to keep from messing up your upper/lower finish.

Also, this is worth its weight in gold. It helps you install things like the roll pin that goes in the gas tube, bolt catch, trigger gaurd, and forward assist without the need of those fancy $50 tools.

And lastly I would definitely get a magpul Bev block and a bench vise. I got a cheapo one from amazon and its worked fine.

Build an AR. Literally grown up lego's.

Buy Roll pin punches, Grace makes good ones
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy high quality punches in general I recommend starret for the none roll pin type.

Buy a barrel vise The viper is excellent. http://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-sku100013367-58959-123515.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-100-013-367&gclid=CjwKEAiAjIbBBRCitNvJ1o257WESJADpoUt0SFb6lBg-x3fdGfsdwZDF0XGfx8AMg43bfFV-DRafuhoCBhjw_wcB

Never hold a weapon by anything other than the barrel when applying 60+ foot pounds of torque if you can help it.
That all off the top of my head for now.

First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).

Then of course a proper hammer

Then some starter punches

Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)

Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.

I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.

EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.

EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.

Awesome. I just got a nice set of punches off Amazon and an armorers wrench from there too.

The order has been placed from Midway so I hope it gets here this week. It would be a nice project for the weekend! Looking forward to getting it finished.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.



Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.

I tried the other methods such as various vice grips with electrical tape, and I still ended up scratching the shit out of my lower. This time around I bought some decent roll pin punches off amazon here and here.

Its much better having the correct tools in my opinion. Plus the ones I linked are from a company called Grace, made in the USA (Michigan)

Personally, I like mid length gas system, but for the money
This has a carbine gas system and would be a better bang for your buck. All you'd need is a lower, Anderson would be just fine. Hopefully where you live you could still pick one up for around $50.

Buy this armorers wrench

Buy this roll pin set.

This is completely optional but if you've never built one before it will save your ass.

At work, I use these and these with a Brownell's brass/nylon hammer and a couple of unmarked brass punches. These are great product's but they're spendy if you're not doing this stuff for a living.

At home I have this and a couple of roll pin starters. It's a great setup for lighter use.

If you're doing sights, the brass punch and nylon hammer head are musts. For everything else the brass head and steel punches are fine. To avoid marring up whatever you're working on, use blue painter's tape to cover the area.

You can look in to the FastCap Knuckle Bender . It’s handy for all sorts of hinge work, easy to use with gloves, and has a huuuuge hinge pin on it.

Also, the Spring Tools Hinge Pin Popper is tremendously quick and easy to use... But small, easier to lose, harder to use with gloves.

Bonus! These Wedge-It Door Stops were designed by a firefighter, come in a variety of colors, easily clip on to a carabiner, and are disgustingly durable.

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Thanks for the link, I ordered them, might as well. Thanks!

Punch it out from the other side. An “oops kit” from ebay will have the extra parts you commonly need or loose. Use some lube for the hole and the pin before you try and put it in should make it easier.... Ideally you will want to use punches made for gun building specifically an “ar 15 rolling pin starter punch” It has a hollow point and will prevent the splitting and make it easier to start. I’ve found using some electrical tape around the areas on my lower I am working around helps prevent me from accidentally nicking it with hammers or punches. Good luck!

Pilot cartridges come with a disk sealing them. Putting it back in place seals the cartridge. I have been doing this for years with not one single leak.
This is how I refill my vanishing points cartridges . I would also recommend using something like an altoid tin to carry them in for extra protection.


A punch looks like this. They are used to drive pins.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2LGZUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_V-W.zbPKPPF0Q

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

I agree with this, and I'd like to say spend some money on a set of roll pin starter and roll pin punch set.

And wow, my full service, machine-shop smith, only charges $65/hr. I know that good work costs $$$, but.... Wow


edit: and some masking/electrical tape. Its not hard, but a modicum of appropriate tools and preventive measures for oopsies, is relatively cheap.

got this kit on PSA on sale a while back, VERY useful. I think all the bits separate would run you ~125 so def a good buy. Also these are good.

https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539615379&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spring+loaded+nail+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41hDMKGosQL&ref=plSrch

Spring loaded nail set. Idk what you would do w the other $90 but this alone he will love.

Welcome to the wonderful world of home rifle maintenance. As frustrated as you maybe now, you'll be better able to work on your firearms in the future because of it. We've all been in a similar position where something simple won't work the way it's supposed to.

​

What type of hammer (weight, material, head) and punches (material, diameter) are you using?

How are you placing the receiver while you work on the rifle, are you trying to drive the pin out side to side or top down?

​

Based on what you've posted so far (and not knowing answers to the above yet).

​

If it were me working on the rifle I would make a quick armourers block (see below for link to a purchasable one). Just take a piece of 2x4 and drill a decent sized hole in it, perhaps 3/8" to 1/2". Now clearly there's a lot of pressure holding that pin in place, to remove it you need a proper hammer and a proper punch. For the hammer you need something like a 12oz steel ball pein. For the punch you will need a steel punch with a diameter as close to the pin as possible without going over.

​

To drift that pin out of the receiver you're going to put your armourers block on a solid surface (work bench, garage floor, etc). Place the receiver, on it's side on top of the block, and punch the pin from the top into the hole in the armours block. It will take a few good wacks before the pin will move, and once it does it will move quick.

​

If after all that the pin won't come out I would recommend taking it to gunsmith as you may be doing something wrong.

​

Relevant tools:

https://www.amazon.ca/Real-Avid-Smart-Bench-Block/dp/B01LXE01KU/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bench%2Bblock&qid=1574830067&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-fibreglass-ballpein-hammer-0574103p.html#srp
https://www.amazon.ca/Vaughan-TC2012-12-Ounce-Commercial-Hammer/dp/B00018AP1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=12oz+hammer&qid=1574831381&s=hi&sr=1-15
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00008IHTJ?pf_rd_p=166ffdfc-3741-4c47-bf8d-82d1def52b0e&pf_rd_r=SXGJ0TT9FGC6PNXD4XHT

Oh yes. The Starrett brass punches are amazing. Get an extra of the 1/16" because it's the easiest one to fuck up.

Best place to start:

Buy this (which has all the parts you need except a stripped lower)

Buy a stripped lower

Buy a wrench

Buy some pin punches

You're all set for $600 out the door.

Roll pin starter punches are one of the best investments I ever made.

Otherwise... just tap them in with a small brass hammer and a pair of needle nose pliers.

These are what I use. The nail sets are great too.

If u don’t like Wally try this it gives 1 extra wrench

I prefer US made tool so I bought starter punches at Amazon and regular punches at Brownells

My father was a machinist and these were the punches he recommended when I told him I wanted a set:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/565-pin-punch-set-prod12625.aspx

If you don't want the stand up case you can get a cheap rubber case for less:
https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/S565PC

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-S565PC-Drive-Punch-Pieces/dp/B0006J4OUC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=starrett+punch+set&qid=1569421053&sr=8-2

If you need roll pin punches I have Grace:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-punches-prod38883.aspx

vix bits make the world a better place and youre gonna want to take the door off this makes those annoying bottom pins jump right out and comes with what will be your favorite nail set or at least mine.

That's like $60 in tools.

• $20 wrench
  
• $10 handguard tool (which really isn't needed at all)
  
• $20 vice block
  
• $13 roll pin set

This set of Starrett punches while expensive is extremely high quality, well worth the money IMO. (Actually the price matches the 8pc set from Brownells)

I have used Allen wrenches and small drill bits that I was willing to sacrifice previously. That being said...

https://www.amazon.com/America-Hollow-Steel-Starter-Punch/dp/B01BL4TW3Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-12&keywords=roll+pin+punch

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Roll-Pin-Punch/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-5&keywords=roll+pin+punch

Punch sets can be had relatively cheaply. I bought the wheeler, though the hollow type might be better for your application.

I have 3 American Locks that I had to do that to. The first one I drilled it with a small bit and stepped up the size twice before using the punch. The second one I used only the larger size bit before using the punch and by the third I was just done with the BS and only used the punch. That one took two swift wacks with the back of a screw driver to push it through enough to grab the bottom with pliers and yank out. That was the easiest and least time consuming out of the 3.

This is the set that I used.

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even better thing to build coils on: roll pin punches

High quality punches make all the difference. Must be high quality tool steel. Grace USA - Steel Roll Spring Punch Set - RS7 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WADKN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1Bf5yb210M8D0 get a cheap set of starter punches also. Quality on these is a non issue really. Squirrel Daddy Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Gf5ybCTYBDBY

No way, man. THESE are the bomb: https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60

Super helpful, especially with those tiny bolt stop pins, if you're building an upper or lower. At $5, its just good to have.

ETA - 21 left at 3:38 CST

ETA 2 - What kind of savage downvotes $5 shipped tools?

ETA 3 - $5 set is OOS @ 3:57 CST

ETA 4 - Stainless is $8 shipped if you have Amazon Prime

I like these at $11.97 delivered.

edit: formatting

Then prebuilt might be best unless you know someone or you have a gunsmith that doesn’t charge something crazy.

At any rate, even with your budget you could just invest in the tools if you plan any future builds.

If piecing something out, most manufacturers include a barrel nut wrench which can be adapted to a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar.

So you would just be in need of a vise and block. I got mine at harbor freight. Was 24$ something after a coupon. And I scooped a sweet vise pin block for 20$ at a gun show. I’ve built well over 30 guns on it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NO-M-A-R-Universal-Upper-Vise-Block-USA-Armorers-Gunsmith-bench-block-tool/123866382627?epid=1417692853&hash=item1cd7030123:g:2SYAAOSwT6pV3SD5

Pin vise I use is similar to this. Mine works on both ar15 and Ar10.

Vise from harbor freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-swivel-vise-with-anvil-61329.html


Amazon has a set of punches which will cover all bases for $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=roll+punch+set&qid=1565363401&s=gateway&sprefix=roll+pun&sr=8-9

I use this one. Has yet to fail me.

Only other thing you’d need is a castle nut wrench. NC Star makes one for about 10$. Works great. Available at academy or on eBay

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/tapco-intrafuse®-ar-stock-wrench

Roll pins are the worst, but a punch set with hollow ends like this one make them easier to deal with.

I have this set and it's worked well for my p10c
I also have a small hammer with a plastic / rubber side I think.
I also grabbed the real avid brand universal gun block.
I swapped to the HB industries trigger using these tools.

They do offer larger punch sets too for not too much more money, like the Tekton or Wheeler master punch set
Wheeler punch set

I would recommend not only the roll pin punches, but also the Hollow End Starter Punch Set.

and

a Utility Knife to get the pivot pin detent in.

I got this set on Amazon about a year ago. Has been really solid for me. No issues. By GRIP company.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L7HOMG

I say you'll probably need them.

Look here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I used these long roll pin punches:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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A pair of channel locks?

Get a punch set and a roll pin start set.

Use the right tools for the job.

Here's one on Amazon.

Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n9bvybCFXCASK these hollow roll pin punches. You simply insert them in the end and hammer away.

Buy these. Get the roll pin started with one of these, then squeeze it into place in a vise

https://smile.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Pieces/dp/B003L7HOMG

It is a spring loaded nail set / center punch.

https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60

One of these guys, basically just put one end against the pin and apply the hammer to the other side of the punch.

These are the ones I have;
Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End all Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KYAPAbNFX5CHX

I don't get why the other guy delete his post. I basically lost my shopping list. So I guess I'll ask you, any torque wrench I need? Also would roll pin set like https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG those be all I need?

Edit: Those roll pins seem bad quality. Could you direct me to some better ones?

Originally bought this starter set and this Punch Set.

Then when I decided to use a polymer lower for my AR pistol build, I ordered this combo starter and Punch kit

• Gas Block: http://aeroprecisionusa.com/750-lo-pro-gas-block.html
  
• Punches: https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Gunsmithing-Gunsmith-Accessories/dp/B007WADKN0
  
• Wrench: https://www.amazon.com/Sports-AR15-Combo-Wrench-PJTW3/dp/B005LVMSD0
  
• Hammer: https://www.amazon.com/SE-8355HH-Dual-Interchangeable-Hammer/dp/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=pd_sim_469_26?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZ7XM5ZR3F93RWF9NBA4
  
• Handguard of your choice, (M-LOK, KeyMod, Picatinny)
  
  
• Doesn't have to be these exact items. Just as a reference so you know kinda what to look for.
  

Punch set - http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-89032-Short-3-Piece/dp/B0060H8O0K
Roll Pin STarter Set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191RFK4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Castle nut Wrench - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H7PSUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Vice Block - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHEIW18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1