Reddit mentions: The best power water pumps

No worries.

I use raw salts too. Yes you just make a two-part stock solution. One has your calcium nitrate and the other has everything else.

I just use a regular carbon block filter inline with my water line. How hard is your water? If less than ~250ppm with the carbon fllter I think you're fine. Some hardness is good for buffering. If you want to use the RO, Fill a res and then use a demand pump to create the pressure. Then run the pump off of a normal digital timer. There are low-flow dosers that work with very little pressure, bu these are usually more expensive and I think pressure boost is needed to make sure the feed lines operate with equal flow.

I put pH last on the line but really it isn't needed... using raw salts with no pH adjustment my mix comes out at 5.9-6.0. If you find you need it, just get the dry pH up/down and add two tablespoons at a time to the part B stock mix (the one WITHOUT the calcium). Set up a bypass valve after the dosers so you can fill a bucket to test the mix and dial it in. Add the up/down (down is more likely than up), stir to fully dissolve, then test, check ph, add more if needed, repeat until it's dialed in. Then in the future you know that you need, say , 6 tablespoons of pHdown added to your stock solution to get the right pH. Once you have it dialed in, should remain perfect for a long time. I check mine using the bypass valve about once a month, and its always spot on.

You can use just two dosers using the above method, but a third doser is useful for "accessory" uses, such as H202, silica, PK boosters, etc, that you might use occaisionally and need to keep separate from the base feed.

It seems like a pricey investment, but not needing to maintain a res, and the freedom to have the plant feeding completely automated, is truly worth every penny. Realistically, maintaining a rez takes at least 3 hours a week, and that's optimistic. For a 12 week veg & bloom cycle, that's 36 hours of work. If my time is worth $25 an hour, then that's $900 of laber I save with the dosers. THey cost about $250 each, so three dosers pay for themselves in labor savings in just one cycle. It allows me to put my energy into plant training and maintenance, since that is now the only manual thing to engage in.

We've been camping with our daughter since she was one. The only "toys" we take are a sand bucket, a toy shovel, a ball and bubbles.

We try to arrive early so we can pick a good campsite. We try to find one where we can use our car as a barricade between our campsite and the road, and one that also has open space behind the designated "campsite". Here are a few pictures of what I mean.

In this picture you can see I kind of parallel parked instead of pulling straight in, lined up with the road, so there is a very obvious line. "Don't go past the car.". (For clarification, the kiddo is in the tent with Dad, and I stepped into the "open area" for a second just to capture this picture. No fires left unattended. Promise.).

When we first took her camping we held her hand close enough to feel the warmth, and told her "This is hot, and you should not touch it. If you do it will hurt.". She helps me cook and is familiar with hot food and the hot stove/oven, so she understand pretty quickly. We also emphasize not running near the fireplace, and that rule seems to have stuck well with her.

In this picture you can see the benefits of the bucket/shovel combo. Our site was actually slanted and a lot of rocks had gone outside of the timber bounds, so we had her hauling rocks back into the campsite the whole time. Leave things better than you found them, eh? She added sticks and called it a tree house. I used the sticks as kindling that night. You can also see why I picked this spot - look at that open play area behind our campsite!

We use a toddler cot for our daughter, and have since she was very young (she's three now). My last suggestions are to have a flashlight just for them, and if they are past the "everything is food" phase, bring glow bracelets. We put one on each limb after dark so that she is easier to see.

We checked out library books about camping before going, and watched a Barney episode about it. That seemed to help, as she knew what to expect and was excited about it.

Plan food, but have a back-up method. It's pretty miserable when you plan on roasting hotdogs, but it's raining and it's taking longer than expected to start the fire and your toddler is pitching a fit. We always take granola bars, those pre-made PB&J frozen sandwiches, and a little stove set up - just in case the fire doesn't work out.

This next bit is not necessary, but it really nice for multiple night stays: We have this 5-gallon jug hand-pump. We take an empty bottle, fill it with potable water at the site, then use it for everything from drinking to hand washing and cooking. Kids are messy and this set-up makes camping a lot more enjoyable for us.

Lastly: commit, but don't over commit. Never get to the point where you are sacrificing sanity for the sake of "fun", and don't spoil the fun for others. During the learning-period we did have to bail once, as it was just becoming too miserable for any one to enjoy.

Good luck, have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. :)

Congrats! I too got one for my birthday and have put two all two all-grain batches through it in March. It’s super convenient but even with all the reading and YouTubing I did before using there was still a bit of a learning curve.

If you did not get the version with the built in pump, I would highly recommend getting pump recommended on amazon to help with recirculation during mash. I had a pretty difficult time the first time since I had decided not to use it. I noticed the built-in sensor kicking on the heating element on even though I was measuring a correct mash temp. On the second brew day I used the pump and the heating element did not kick on as much.

If you are using the amazon pump, I’d also recommend running it with the valve 50-75% open or to have the tube reach into the mash. I slightly modified my lid by drilling out the hole in the top to fit a 3/8” stainless barbed elbow. This was done to avoid kinking of the silicone tubing and to be able to keep the lid on during mash. The problem I ran into by doing this is the flow from the pump was too high and the splashing cause a foam to build up. The foam easily rose to the top with some bits of grain and husks, and could have easily spilled over the sides of the basket. I noticed this about 30 minutes into the mash and adjusted the valve to lower thr flow. I will likey test adding 6-12” of tubing on the other end of thr elbow so that the tube end is in the mash and not above to cause splashing.

My mashes have been full immersion using a bag and I’m temped to sparge with it to see if I can get more efficiency above 75%.

Thanks for the update! The discharge pipe is 1.5 inches, pit is about 22 inches deep, 18 inches in diameter. The current pump has worked fine for ~10 years now, but the power outage ruined that streak. I just figured since the 3/4 was essentially the same price as the comparable 1/2 I would go with that, didn't realize the other factors to consider that you mentioned.

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I'm now debating on whether to go with a battery backup combo unit or water powered backup. Someone else recommended the Wayne WSS30V 1/2 HP Combination System which seems like it may be the perfect replacement. Looks like it recommends a 75Ah deep cycle battery. The one from Wayne is $270, but I found this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump for about ~$100. Would this be sufficient to use? That would put the system at about $550.

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The other option would be to get a solo 1/2 HP pump like this Wayne CDU800 and Liberty Pumps SJ10 water powered backup. Comes out to about $350, but that doesn't count for having a plumber install the Liberty, and I have no idea what that would roughly cost, maybe you would know?

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I think these are my two best options, just unsure on which route to go.

Here you go:

Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.

Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.

Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.

High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor

Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.

Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?

Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.

this pump works great I use it on my mash and boil but honestly the temperature and efficiency hold pretty fine with or without it. But it is nice for whirlpooling when chilling or transferring to a fermenter

you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.

• 2gpm Solar pump - $30
  
• Ball lock disconnects - $12
  
• SS T FPT fitting - $5
  
• 1/2" NPT diffustion stone - $15
  
• 1/" npt hose barbs $7
  
• vinyl tubing and clamps $4
  
  That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.

They call them Hy-Vents.

You need to know what size the thread is... It's almost always usually 1/8" in Residential applications.
https://www.amazon.com/Taco-400-4-8-Inch-NPT-Float-Hy-Vent/dp/B003QSJLL2

Be very careful when you unthread it from the "air scarf." They like to crush and sprawl. Be firm, but very patient and unscrew it slowly. Some penetrating liquid might also help before/during attempt. Just don't be all loose-handed with it, and you should be ok. It won't take much effort to remove it, but don't go at the job with a carefree grasp.

They have a short life-span, even if you maintain them seasonally. The lifespan lowers drastically if you don't open them up and clean them out seasonally. Expect 1-3 seasons without proper maintenance.

I hope this helps.

Sorry for the late reply, I'm probably the only one who checks this sub. I have a double IBC tote setup, with this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-594-154-2088-Diaphragm-Industrial/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722510&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=in-line+water+pump+shurflo

With a couple of in-line filters: this on on the pump inlet: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-315-Swivel-Water-Strainer/dp/B002XM3IP2/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XM3IP2&pd_rd_r=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0&pd_rd_w=RXwRJ&pd_rd_wg=dIo1a&psc=1&refRID=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0

And this one (I think) on the IBC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strainer-mounting-stainless-screen/dp/B00CH18YFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722741&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+strainer


I think my long hose is 100ft. Is there a lot of head? What kind of sprinkler is it? How large of an area do you want to cover?

I have a sprinkler similar to this one that works pretty well, probably covers around 12x12ft? https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-medium-watering-troubleshooting-Needed/dp/B01HB1NVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722821&sr=8-6&keywords=sprinkler

I've used it with another sprinkler like this, but there are too many holes, so not enough pressure https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Light-Circle-Pattern-Sprinkler/dp/B000KL17BU/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722890&sr=8-47&keywords=sprinkler

I've used them in two areas in my yard with about an 8ft difference in head. Neither were effected much by the head difference.

At work we have 3 ~800gal cisterns for our plant nursery. We have a pump similar if not the same model as this one which we use for the normal back-and-forth style lawn sprinklers. It works great, but again very little head. I think we might be able to run two sprinklers at a time with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVPSK?ref=emc_b_5_i

Do you find it easy to brew 5 gallon batches in the brewers edge? I was actually looking at getting the brewers edge without the pump and getting a cheaper hot water pump and some tubing and using that to recirculate - something like this

If you or anyone else on the thread has tried this and could say speak about how well that would work I’d love some feedback.

It's not just about recycling, though. The three Rs are in order: Reduce, reuse, recycle! Recycling is important but it's way better to not make waste in the first place.

Another idea might be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2Y8Q

They go on top of those big multi-gallon jugs that you can either refill with tap or your local grocery store might have a filtered water refill station.

The MkII pump is actually just a "ripoff" as well, if you want to look at it this way. KegLand (AU) did not design or manufacture that pump.

The MkII, the pump in the Grainfather, and many similar looking pumps are all part of the Chinese-made MP-series magnetic drive pump, or knockoffs. There are many manufacturers in China making these. An American company can travel to China or work through an agent in the U.S., EU, AUS/NZ, etc. to contract for a private label pump based on one of this family of pumps. As a part of it, you can choose which pump from this series you want to use as the base model, customize it, get your own decal put on, and then use another agent to have them shipped to your warehouse.

In the case of OP /u/sktyrhrtout, it looks like they made the SS pump head standard equipment rather than an upgrade, and to have a different cord put on (a switched cord). This one's specs seem to indicate it uses less power to get the same flow rate and head, so it's possible the impeller design is a little different. But it's the same or close to the MP-15R pump. Compare this similar product, where the label clearly identifies it as a MP-15RM-110 model pump.

Considering that Amazon protects you from fraud (I think), it seems like a good deal for someone looking for this type of pump. I have a Riptide and a little solar pump, so I'm not in the market.

Assuming you mean increasing the volume of water coming from the faucet, then yes. The reason that you'll get cold water from your hot tap for a while is that the water heater is usually pretty far away from the sink. Even if the pipe between the two is well insulated, if you don't use the tap for a while the water sitting in it will cool down. By opening the faucet more, you're moving the old water out of the pipe faster and getting hot water from the heater faster.

If you have to wait a long time for this to happen, you're letting a lot of water go to waste. This can be solved by getting a circulator pump. When installed it pumps water from the sink end of your piping through a return line and back into the system right before the heater. This moves hot water from the heater up to the sink without wasting any.

On the other side, getting colder water would most likely be moving room temp water out of the pipes and getting to water that was sitting in your well or underground piping from the city.

Edit: I should write faster.

Edit Edit: This is one of the pumps I mentioned.

I bought this one:

LTA-1-ABC HARTELL DIRECT MOUNT SINK, Automatic laundry tray pump w/8 foot cord & plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009T84WI/

I installed it today and it works great. I’m stoked. Thanks again for your help!

Well for the price of the second one you could almost get a shallow well pump, which would likely be more robust and have greater flow. Something like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Lion-PWJET50-Shallow-Well/dp/B00XUZA96M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484194715&sr=8-3&keywords=shallow+well+pump

https://www.amazon.com/Flotec-FP4012-10-Shallow-Well-Pump/dp/B0002YXB14/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484194715&sr=8-8&keywords=shallow+well+pump

I would go to amazon and pick up a small water pump. Something like this. Link

Get some lines and I picked up a ball lock liquid post. Go with Pin if that is what you use for kegs. Went to the hardware store and cobbled together some line, and adapters to get to a barb fitting that fits on the liquid post. Get your BLC (beer line cleaner) put it in a bucket. Put the pump in the bucket with the one end of the line going to the pump the other end has your liquid post. Hook that up to your keg coupler. I set the bucket under the faucet so as the pump pushes the BLC through the lines and faucet it pours right back into the bucket. Plug it in and come back in an hour. Go to the next line. If I wanted I could probably do a spliter and get more posts so I could do them all at once but I might need a higher flow pump.

Once done. I dump the bucket and replace with clean water. I then clear all the BLC out the lines. I don't see the point in using starsan. It is a sanitizer not a cleaner. It probably doesn't hurt anything but the risk of infecting a beer while it is in the beer lines is pretty low. At that point there is little to no sugars and the alcohol inhibits infection. PBW is fine probably fine to run through the lines but BLC is better. There is a reason they make different products.

What this setup will cost is going to be less than a refill on a CO2 tank, so why waste it on pushing cleaner? If you insist on using CO2 to push the cleaners. It doesn't need to be cold. It doesn't clean better if the cleaner is carbonated. You are only trying to push the cleaner. Hook it up to whatever pressure your regulator is set to and open the tap. CO2 pressurizes the headspace and pushes the liquid out.

Schedule 40 PVC is safe as long as you don't let it get moldy.

With that said, I've looked at gravity sinks and it seems like the downsides outweigh the upsides. Water weight high up means the van will be more top heavy and any imbalance will be exaggerated. It also requires quite a bit of support to mount. Being permanent, it's harder to fill. If the van is at an angle, you might not be able to use it (I'm assuming you'll be using a long tube of PVC). It'll be sloshing around while you're driving.

If you're going for water with no electricity, maybe look at something like this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526855465&sr=8-4&keywords=5+gallon+hand+pump

Those are just my thoughts. I speak from reading and looking at them, I haven't used one in person.

For mash circulation, you don't need much. On my small electric system (Mash and Boil) I use one of these.. That has a 2.1 GPM flow rate.

A step up would be the Anvil Pump at 3 GPM flow rate. It also has some added benefits like in line switch.

A further step up would be the MKII Pump with a 5 GPM max flow. I personally think this is the best performance for price (never having used it, and just reading specs).

What exactly is this pumping out? Is there a french drain under your basement? Just trying to confirm this isn't an ejector pump.

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EDIT:

This seems like an easy DIY and had good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-ESP25-Upgraded-12-Volt-Battery/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sump+pump+battery+backup&qid=1567991829&s=gateway&sr=8-4

This is what I use. You have to prime this one manually. I Jerry rigged a switch to it for convenience. There are definitely nicer ones out there but it works great for us.

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0

I mean, the permit is like $200 a year, and you can buy a water pump on amazon for $130 that'll pump over 11,000 gallons a day.
Have at it, the water is free to everyone.
It's like your water bill at home, you're not paying for the water, you're paying for the use of infrastructure.

I brew 5 gallon batches in a 10.5 gallon kettle, and I brew outdoors on a 65,000 BTU burner. I use this false bottom so I can direct fire during the mash. I modulate the amount of heat manually, the amount I need to re-heat the mash depends on weather and how often I pull the lid off.

I also use this pump to recirculate during the mash, it really helps keep the temps even throughout and it gives me a nice boost in efficiency.

Pump and chiller we the best things to be added to our set up.

This is our pump https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-PC2-115-Volt-Portable-Transfer/dp/B000CPZTEK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482552424&sr=8-6&keywords=water+pump

This is our chiller http://www.homebrewing.org/Blichmann-Therminator_p_1282.html

We can transfer from boiling hot to ground temp a whole keggle in a matter of minutes. We can do 60-70 gallons in under 5 hours from first burner to pitching yeast and clean up.

Or just get a standard tank and one of these:
Watts 500800 Instant Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer, Easy to Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kdwDbZR6E70C

Works quite well for me. I set it up to a smart home plug so it is only running when someone is home.

Sous vide ribs are amazing, especially beef. I use an electronic temperature controller, an electric roaster oven, a circulating pump, and foodsaver bags.

For beef, divide the ribs so that they fit in gallon bags. Slap a heavy dry rub on them. Vacuum seal them. Put them in the water at 140F for the first 4 hours. This is to ensure nothing nasty grows (I've cooked at lower temps to start, because rare and medium rare are my favorite, but occasionally a bag goes bad and blows up like a balloon) Lower the temp to 130F and cook for an additional 44-68 hours.

When they're done, let them rest a bit, so that you don't overcook them when searing, then take the juices from the bag and use it to make BBQ sauce.

Turn your grill up to max, and give the ribs a quick sear. If you want, brush with sauce, and sear a bit more. You'll end up with some amazingly tender ribs. Other methods can also produce fall off the bone ribs, but IMO, those methods overcook the meat and sacrifice flavor. Here the meat is still medium and pink, so it tastes like a juicy steak.

Pork ribs are similar, except I cook them at 145F for 18-24 hours.

I’ve used this one with good results. It’s not a great transfer pump, but it’s perfect for cooling. I use it in an ice water bath to temp control my spike fermenter.

Those robobrews are super popular. I have a Mash and Boil, and I know a few people who own a Grainfather.

Or you could buy an induction heater and use equipment you already have. There's no wrong answer. Also, I got this pump for cheap and it works great for recirculating the mash or moving wort to a fermenter.

Anyone use one of these? Wondering if it is okay to use for only water or water and sanitizer/oxiclean? I wouldn't pump wort through it, just the sparge water and cleaning solutions.

Thanks!

Thankfully I have not had a failure. knock on wood The handles have helped me to control the carboy when lifting, moving, and pouring from it. Also if it’s going to be for potable water, something like this will let you not have to always lift it.

Water Bottle Pump - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p3unDbQZ3WX93

This is what we use. Works great, fills up five gallon cans in a couple of minutes. I think I bought it from amazon. These are siphon pumps, and will work for all sorts of liquids, including gas.
You can get battery operated ones for $15. Link to Amazon

I used this pump:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XERUTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#

Powered by this battery:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DR3IIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this solar panel:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCRG22A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This simple and cheap setup basically gave me 2 garden hoses (2ea 1/2 inch pipes t'd off of the main 1" line)

I could water for like an hour in the morning, an hour at sundown and probably 3-4 hours at mid-day in full sun with the battery never running down more than a tiny ammount. I also charged phones, computers, flashlights, etc with this system at the same time. You should be able to pump your ass off with a system like this.

Things to note... The pump only has about a 20 foot lift so if the top of the water in the swamp is farther than 20 vertical feet (not linear) from where the end of the hose is you may be in trouble. Also, make some sort of coarse filter so leaves and mud and such does not clog it. A few mesh bags around a 5 gallon bucket with a ton of 2" holes and a rock to weight it down did the trick for me! Good luck.

Use a propylene glycol solution with an inhibitor package added. Conventional automotive antifreeze will probably work great. Dilute it to provide freeze protection for the coldest ambient conditions you would ever expect for your geographic location. But higher-concentration does not equal better so don't over do it. Specific heat of p. glycol drops off quickly with increased concentration.

You will need to have an expansion tank to give the fluid some place to go as it expands and contracts assuming that you use a closed system. You should also consider an automatic air vent as this will make getting the air out of the system much easier than trying to do it manually.

Shoot for 3-7gpm in each 3/4" circuit. Without knowing the type of pipe, number of fittings, etc, it is not possible to exactly specify the pump but a 1/25HP water circulation pump will probably do just fine.

I'm not familiar with residential control systems for hydronic heating but on the industrial side we would use a temperature probe at the discharge of the heater and modulate or cycle the heat source based on this. I'm guessing there are probably integrated controllers for residential that incorporates both pump control and heater control together. You might check with /r/HVAC. You might also pay a visit to your local HVAC supply house.

Would you recommend something like this instead?

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Link to Amazon

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

A couple hundred bucks plus install. Something like this. We have one and it is nice. The the shower heats up in seconds.

Plenty of folks use a little DC pump. I've got one that runs my RIMS machine. It's not specifically certified for food contact, but it's all polypropylene and polyphenylene. Both of which are pretty much inert below 150C.

follow the advice given by wise people below.

if you still have lots of water after that. then just buy:

• $47 pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MGYF3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• $15 tubing
  
• $7 attachment piece (from dehumidifier to pump)

Every tank style hot water heater I have seen or heard of will heat the water, store it, and maintain a temperature. Getting cold water from a hot water line (for some short time) is usually indicative of just cooled water sitting in the pipe between the point of use and the tank.

I think something is wrong with your tank if you have to run the water for 20 minutes before getting hot water. Or perhaps the tank is very far from the shower?

But assuming a working hot water heater, I recommend something like this be installed under the closest sink to the shower. It will pull hot water and pump it into the cold water line. If you set it up correctly on the timer, it will keep the call for hot water set to an optimal time for you (20 min before you wake up). It should keep newly heated water in the hot water pipes between the sink and the tank during the time you set. So you shouldn't have to run the shower long to get hot water, just long enough to clear the cooled water between the sink and shower.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/

The downside is it could impact the water in the house for drinking. Because tanks can collect calcium and other minerals, there could be a higher density of this water in the cold water line put there by the recirculating pump. Just something to think about and research a bit.

Yes, I've added hot water to the keg before to help it dissolve. It helps, but still requires a fair bit of stirring.

I figured that I'd just add some pressure to the keg and bleed the pump outlet side in order to prime it.

I actually have one of these diaphragm pumps sitting around in the garage; I might try that.

If you're going to get a tiny pump like that, there are cheaper ones on Amazon like this one. The only difference being the connections. The one you linked has NPT which means it will be easier to hook into your current system, but there's no reason you can't use the one I linked as well.

I installed one of these recirculating pumps a few years ago for the same reason.

It has a built in analog timer, but I just set it to always on and use a smart plug to handle the time schedule.

Get you a condensate pump off amazon. That hole is a French drain. It can’t handle the volume of water your humidifier puts out.
Little Giant VCMX-20ULST 554550 VCMX Series Automatic Condensate Removal Pump With Safety Switch (115 volts), 1/30 horsepower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MGYF3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhjBCb1ZRH3NN

No this is a little brown pump.

They are cheap and fairly weak.

I would think a chugger should be perfectly capable, how big a hose do you have connected? It says its capable of 18.6ft of head pressure.

A hot water recirculator might be a better option for you. I dont think anything like that exists, or at least I have never heard of one.

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built/dp/B000E78XHG

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hot-Water-Recirculating-System-with-Built-In-Timer-500800/100426993

Basically just cycles the water through to keep the hot warm

You might be able to use a high temperature pump and just cycle the liquid from the bottom to the top. Something like https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I with some additional plumbing would probably work. Maybe something with more GPH if you think ~2 gallons per minute would be too little.

This is what I use, but almost any transfer pump works. That one is particularly loud, so if I ever need another I will buy a different brand.

It empties half my 125 in less than 15 minutes. I adapted a vacuum tube to the inlet side with parts found at any hardware store. To fill I attach a hose to my shower head with another adapter. I'll post pics of the adapters if anyone is interested.

It's way faster than a python system and doesn't waste water. You can run the output directly to your lawn/garden. Garden hose attaches directly to the input/output. They're also self priming.

You need one of these. Easy to install and hot water FAST!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E78XHG?vs=1

One thing I'm gonna do this year is buy a couple 5 gallon jugs of water and hang onto them for the season. So much easier than going out last minute for individual bottles which are usually the first to go. Even if you don't have an electric water dispenser, which I don't, you can buy a manual stand or a pump.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-gallon-Manual-Pump-for-Bottle-Water-Drinking-Water-Hand-Pump-Heavy-Duty-Drinking-Water-Pump/106855138

https://smile.amazon.com/Dispenser-Nonscrew-Stainless-Countertop-threaded/dp/B01N9YNUIG/

https://smile.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/

Is there any way to tell is this pump is safe to recirculate wort and whirlpool? Temps seem fine, just don't want any issue with the plastic not being food safe

Sure!

hot water pump pump

800w souse-vide it seems the price went up on this one, maybe shop around for a cheaper 800W unit (I paid $55)

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

not self priming but sure beats gravity

You guys need a hot water recirculating system. Easy to install and not too expensive.

I know what you mean about changing reservoirs! Do you have a water transfer pump to drain your system and replenish it? It makes a big difference vs trying to pour water, especially for your back.

This transfer pump is cheap and effective, but it is a tad slow and you'll have to replace it every so often.

I use this one when I need to move a lot of water, since it's much faster.

In practice, I end up using them both.

I got the one in the Amazon link below. HomeBrew Finds found a deal on fittings from Pro Flow Dynamics, and that's where I bought the ball valves and other fittings.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This gizmoid. I use bottled water at home (skunky well water) so we thought there’s got to be a way to be able to have that convenience at a campsite!

I believe I use the same Solar Pump as you do, chino, albeit possibly with a different power supply (see here).

Any chance you can link me to the controller you use/the wiring diagram you used to attach it?

Also, not exactly related, but if you do decide to upgrade your rig to recirculating, it's not that expensive for a no-name chinese pump: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+water+pump&qid=1574359338&sr=8-5


I personally would recirculate hot wort through any cold-side or hot-to-cold side hardware if possible.


Also in re chillers, I put my chiller in to the boil with 15 minutes remaining, and pause the boil clock until it returns to boiling temperatures. Needs time to heat sanitize that as well.

The blumats have a 30gal resevoir with a pH controller. This has basically cut my weekly work in half. I just top off the res every couple weeks.

That's a 3x3 tray, so that leaves 6 inches on all sides for some pavers to hold up those shelves. I use a transfer pump and wand to feed from 5gal buckets and then pump the runoff out of the tray back into a bucket for reuse outside for my strawberries.

Edit: Here's what it looks like from above

$80 for the pump on amazon, Foxx sells them for way more than they're worth. but you can get submersible ones for even cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RMQ6B8R1O540&coliid=I3O2VQVIO4BUHA

Yeah i found this which looks like a lot of people are using for recirc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or if i need a real chugger or something that can stand up to some grain mush. I think ill try it and see.

Hot Water Recirculation Pump

It's worth it.

It's not as strong as the pricier pumps but it does just fine.

I even used one of these on a 5 gallon setup for a while and it was even able to do what I needed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Several amazon sellers stock them for similar prices, here's one example. I've seen them cheaper without the AC adapter. Plenty of reviews on there.

Why is it the food grade pump on amazon is $30 but a pump for brewing cost over $100. https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I

They sell 12v "brew" pumps on aamazon...supposed to be food safe but its all straight from china so who knows. Yoosan was the brand i bought...i use a chugger to circulate mash but i heard people use these so i bought one for shits and giggles. Can run 24v if you have an old computer power supply...really moves liquid too...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196WL55G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481382839&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=12+pump+food+grade&dpPl=1&dpID=41UOH0yLNPL&ref=plSrch

bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fphaCbPTYYWHJ

Not the best but it works fine. Isn't self priming though.

If you want to go radical, run a hot water recirculator loop to the sink and back to the water heater. a la Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer This provides rapid hot water response. Then insulating the whole loop reduces energy loss.

This is the pump I'm using.

The controller is a custom built BrewManiacEX controller. As mentioned in another comment, I plan on redesigning the PCB I'm using over the next few days, then do a full /r/DIY style build thread.

http://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q

This is what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_97jMDbBNW8ATX

Maybe some kind of hot water circulation system, so you always have hot water when you turn the faucet on. Most of them seem a lot more complicated than that though.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG

Wayne ESP25 Upgraded 12-Volt Battery Backup System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVwOCbSW5RF0F

We have a sump and we bought something similar for power outages.

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

I went with this. Saw it mentioned a few times. Seems to be decent.

1. Water recirculation set to when you will be showering. Something (like this)[http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E78XHG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687762]
   
   
2. Clean your shower heads with CLR. You may have flow issues and when before it only took 1-2 minutes to heat up now it might take 5-6. If the bathroom sinks can get hot water(eventually) this is likely the cause. I had one of the EPA regulated 2.5GPM shower heads(standard since mid 90's) on the other side of the house, it took around 6-7 minutes to get heater. I drilled out the regulator and bumped it up to around 5gpm, so now it only takes 2-3 minutes and the pressure is way better.
   
   
3. Turn up the temperature on your hot water heater. You may just have really bad insulation so need more heat to get there.

You need one of these. It will keep the water hot at a distant tap. It also cuts down on wasted energy heating water that eventually just get cold anyway. Insulating the hot water supply line to the bathroom will help too.

This solves your problem.


http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Premier-Water-Recirculation/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412538958&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+water+circulation+pump

I'm going to advise against this completely because it's not going to work, unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you wrote.

The water needs to be constantly circulating or it's going to get cold. If it only circulates for x time after someone opens a tap, they're still going to have to wait for the new hot water to get to the faucet.. and then the extra circulation will continue after they shut off the water.. which is just wasting energy since nobody is actually using the water.

It will be: open tap - wait for cold water to get hot - shut off tap after getting hot water - hot water fills the domestic hot lines, and then cools off because nobody is using it anymore.. and that seems to defeat the purpose completely?

You either need a small pump that is constantly circulating the water or, probably the best bet, is buying a small insta-hot for whatever location you want hot water. If you want it everywhere.. then try: something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG

I have no experience designing systems for residential, but I make a living designing plumbing for industrial/commercial/superconductor/hospitals, etc.. so I don't know jack about who makes decent quality systems for the home.

Currently my favorite topic! The system is entirely reusable and has NO LEAKS, which is incredible. It uses PEX 1/2" piping and "Sharkbite" fittings. The connectors are key: they snap on with no tool! They snap off with a simple tool. And no leaks. They're so perfect for the burn it's hard to believe.

​

We bring the water cube empty, and have it filled. The fill is before the build is complete so I have to the footprint survey very correct, as you can't move that thing an inch once filled. The cube's output is PEX-ed to an on-demand pump, exactly like you'd find in an RV. The pump's output is passed through a two-stage filter (first year with the water cube (2015) people kept talking about the taste being weird), and then to a four-way splitter (or "manifold" in plumber-speak): kitchen sink, shower, personal water fill spigot, and misters.

​

The misters were new last year and key for unloading extra water during breakdown. Overall my work-level on the water supply is way lower, and people are way more satisfied. I keep greywater levels in control by setting the pressure to the shower and sink fairly low.

​

No leaks! I'm still blown away by how perfect the system is for our weird use.