Reddit mentions: The best water pumnps, parts & accessories
We found 373 Reddit comments discussing the best water pumnps, parts & accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 147 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM
- Circulation pump is non-self-priming pump. Max Flow Rate: 2.1GPM, Max Discharge Head: 9.8ft
- 1/2" Male thread on the pump. The OD of the brass coupler is 10mm. Comes with a power adapter
- Power source: DC 12V(POWER ADAPTER INCLUDED), Rated current: 0.7A, Brushless Motor, Low noise: 30db at 1 metre, Service life: 30000 hours
- Max circulating water temperature: 55°C/131°F. It's submersible but can't be immersed in hot water exceeding 50°C/122℉
- One year warranty: replacement without return
Features:
Specs:
Color | Brass |
Weight | 0.66 Pounds |
2. Superior Pump 91250 Utility Pump, 1/4 HP, Black
- 1/4 HP Utility pump moves up to 1,800 gallons per hour; pump will lift water up to 25' of vertical height
- Tough thermoplastic construction; 10' cord length
- 1-1/4 inch NPT discharge for high capacity pumping; includes 3/4 inch garden hose adapter
- Removable suction screen and handles up to 1/8 inch solids
- Superior Pumps are Built to Last, engineered with quality components and are 100% factory tested
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 7 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1/4 HP |
Weight | 6.8 Pounds |
Width | 7 Inches |
3. Pump for 16 oz. Jar
- Plastic pump for 16 oz Beeswax Lotion and Aloe Vera Lotion jar
- Eliminates Waste
- Fits most 16 oz jars with sizes of 3.5" x 3.5"
Features:
Specs:
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | August 2014 |
Size | 3.5x3.5 Inch (Pack of 1) |
Width | 4 Inches |
4. Dolphin Water Pump - BPA-Free Manual Drinking Water Pump - Fits Most 5-6 Gallon Water Coolers
Fits mostly all 5 or 6 gallon bottlesDispenses as quickly or slowly as you would likeCleaning Kit provided, no batteries neededManufactured with drinking water quality plasticDoes NOT fit: Plastic water bottles with 53mm caps
Specs:
Color | Grey-blue |
Height | 5.5 Inches |
Length | 10.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pump |
Weight | 0.7 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
5. WAYNE WWB WaterBUG Submersible Pump with Multi-Flo Technology,Yellow
- DON’T LET STANDING WATER BUG YOU - The WAYNE WaterBUG is your new ultimate multi-purpose water removal tool. The WWB model is easy to use in tight spaces like window wells, or big spaces like basements thanks to patented Multi-Flo Technology.
- GET RID OF WATER QUICKLY - Multi-Flo technology allows for easy selection of the best water removal option. This WWB water pump will get your basement or yard virtually dry by pumping up to 1350 GPH and removing water down to 1/16”.
- REMOVAL OPTIONS - Top discharge is perfect for removing water from small or tight spaces: window wells, buckets, etc. Side discharge is ideal for easy water removal from flat open surfaces: flat roofs, flooded basements, standing water in yard, etc.
- ADDITIONAL FEATURES - Corrosion-resistant brass discharge outlets, with tethered cap seals, fit any standard garden hose. Multi-ring suction strainer filters debris, keeping it clear from the suction intake to minimize clogging.
- QUALITY YOU DESERVE - Proudly assembled in the USA for quality you can trust. Please note: the pump should be unplugged once the water is gone or pump will run dry.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 10 Inches |
Length | 11 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2016 |
Weight | 6 Pounds |
Width | 11 Inches |
6. Watts Premier Instant Hot Water Recirculating Pump System with Built-In Timer
WATTS RECIRCULATING HOT WATER PUMP: Provides hot water at every faucet or shower when needed, eliminating wasted water, 0.5 inches bypass value.BEST SELLING RECIRCULATING SYSTEM: Conserve up to 15,000 gallons of water per year. Save up to 10% of your water bill. It costs only $0.05 per day to operat...
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 8.3 Inches |
Length | 7.6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 6" X 6" |
Weight | 6.4 Pounds |
Width | 7.6 Inches |
7. Zoeller 105-0001 Sump Pump, 12.50 x 14.50 x 14.50 inches, 19 Pound
Automatic, float operated mechanical switch 115V/1 Ph1-1/2" NPT discharge9 ft. UL listed 3-wire cord and plug1550 RPM, 60 Hz on 50 series modelsNon-clogging vortex impeller
Specs:
Color | Electric |
Height | 13.75 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 12.50 x 14.50 x 14.50 inches |
Weight | 19.13 Pounds |
Width | 7.75 Inches |
8. Superior Pump 91330 1/3 HP Thermoplastic Submersible Utility Pump with 10-Foot Cord
- 1/3 HP Utility pump moves up to 2,400 gallons per hour; pump will lift water up to 25' of vertical height
- Tough thermoplastic construction; 10' cord length
- 1-1/4 inch NPT discharge for hight capacity pumping; includes 3/4 inch garden hose adapter
- Removable suction screen and handles up to 1/8 inch solids
- Superior Pumps are Built to Last, engineered with quality components and are 100% factory tested
- Amps - 4.1
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 11.5 Inches |
Length | 6.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1/3 HP |
Weight | 7.8 pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
9. Superior Pump 91025 1/5 HP Thermoplastic Submersible Utility Pump with 10-Foot Cord
- 1/5 HP Utility pump moves up to 1,560 gallons per hour; pump will lift water up to 25' of vertical height
- Tough thermoplastic construction; 10' cord length
- Large 1-1/4 inch NPT discharge for high capacity pumping; includes 3/4 inch garden hose adapter
- Removable suction screen and handles up to 1/8 inch solids
- Superior Pumps are Built to Last, engineered with quality components and are 100% factory tested
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 7 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1/5 HP |
Weight | 6.7 pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
10. WAYNE PLS100 1 HP Portable Stainless Steel Lawn Sprinkling Pump
- 1 HP; max. flow rate is 850 Gallons Per Hour; 775 GPH at 10 ft. of discharge lift
- Portable stainless steel with safe and convenient on/off switch and easy carry handle for portability
- Fan cooled continuous-duty 120 volt motor draws water up to 20 ft.
- 1 in. Npt suction and discharge threads, 3/4 in. Garden hose adapter included
- 150 ft. of total dynamic head, maintains pressure up to 60 PSI
Features:
Specs:
Color | Stainless Steel |
Height | 9.38 Inches |
Length | 18 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 |
Weight | 20.6 Pounds |
Width | 11.5 Inches |
11. bayite BYT-7A006 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump Low Noise 3M Discharge Head 2.1GPM
- Circulation pump is non-self-priming pump. Max Flow Rate: 2.1GPM, Max Discharge Head: 9.8ft
- 1/2" Male thread on the pump. The OD of the brass coupler is 10mm. NO POWER ADAPTER INCLUDED
- Power source: DC 12V(NOT INCLUDED), Rated current: 0.7A, Brushless Motor, Low noise: 30db at 1 metre, Service life: 30000 hours
- Max circulating water temperature: 55°C/131°F. It's submersible but can't be immersed in hot water exceeding 50°C/122℉
- One year warranty: replacement without return
Features:
Specs:
Color | Brass |
12. Wayne ESP25 Upgraded 12-Volt Battery Backup System, Black
Upgraded ESP25 with epoxy steel body and cast-iron base. No more plastic2700 GPH at 0' provides additional protection to your primary Wayne sump pumpAssembled in USA, performance that lasts for yearsAudible alarm sounds, notifying you when the back up system is activeEasy to read LED display shows b...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 14 Inches |
Length | 17 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 13.5 Pounds |
Width | 10.5 Inches |
13. High temperature(100'C) 6.8L/Min (108GPH) mini DC12V Water Pump. Food grade. Sous Vide
- Works with any PS4 Model
- Capacity: 1TB
- Not Necessarily Same Model as Pictured
Features:
14. WAYNE CDU800 1/2 HP Submersible Cast Iron and Steel Sump Pump With Integrated Vertical Float Switch
- High-Capacity Removal - This 1/2 HP WAYNE basement sump pump is perfect to keep your basement dry during heavy water flow. Whether it’s rain, snow melting, etc. WAYNE model CDU800 can pump up to 5,100 GPH to keep your basement dry.
- Tough And Durable - Corrosion-resistant epoxy coated steel motor housing and stainless steel fasteners come with a cast-iron volute that provides long life in tough sump pump applications.
- Efficient Design - The top suction design eliminates air lock and minimizes clogging from any debris in the bottom of the sump pit. Easy to install in about 15 minutes with no need to drill a weep hole!
- Additional Features - 1-1/2” NPT discharge for compliance with building codes. The vertical float switch has been tested to 1 million cycles for long-lasting use, up to 10 time more than our competitors.
- Quality You Deserve - Proudly assembled in the USA for quality you can trust. Warrantied for 3 years for dependable, efficient, & ultra-quiet performance.
Features:
Specs:
Color | port |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 0.5 HP |
Weight | 12 Pounds |
Width | 9 Inches |
15. Zoeller M53 Mighty-mate Submersible Sump Pump, 1/3 Hp
- Professional-grade, 3/10 HP submersible pump for residential dewatering (sump) or effluent (septic tank systems) use.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 10.25 Inches |
Length | 10.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 |
Weight | 21 Pounds |
Width | 7.75 Inches |
16. WAYNE PC2 Portable Transfer Water Pump With Suction Hose And Attachment, Black
- Heavy-duty bronze plated pump housing for durability. The noise level is 74dBA at 3 feet distance
- Portable pump for household and utility applications ; 120 Volt Metal Transfer Pump
- Removes water down to 1/8-inch of surface when water suction attachment is connected
- Pumps up to 340-gallons of water per hour with 0-Feet Discharge Head, 300 GPH @ 10-Feet;Maximum flow is 410 gallons per hour
- Discharge threaded to accept standard garden hose. On using, clear any air that may be in their garden hose for maximum suction.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 9 inches |
Length | 7.6 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Small |
Weight | 7 Pounds |
Width | 9 inches |
17. WAYNE ESP25 12 Volt Battery Back-Up Sump Pump System with Audible Alarm
*Discontinued. New and upgraded ESP25 available underneath bullet points.3300-Gallons per hour at 10-feet of lift. Recommended for use with the WAYNE WSB1275, 75 AMP hr maintenance free batteryCorrosion resistant thermoplastic constructionAlarm sounds to notify you when the backup system is activeRe...
Specs:
Height | 10 Inches |
Length | 7.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 3300 Gallon Per Hour |
Weight | 12.9 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
18. Basepump RB750 Water Powered Backup Sump Pump with Water Alarm
Extremely reliable, very powerful, water powered backup sump pump systemNo battery to wear out or maintain; no charger to plug in or monitor.Includes battery powered high water ALARMWorks with Radon Sealed systems.Mounted on the ceiling, high above the sump, clean and dry.
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 16 Inches |
Weight | 6 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
19. Wayne VIP50 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Portable Electric Water Removal Pump
- Heavy-Duty Removal - This 1/2 HP WAYNE multi-use pump is perfect to keep your area dry during heavy water flow. WAYNE model VIP50 can easily pump water away along with debris up to 1/2".
- Tough And Durable - Corrosion-resistant and sealed thermoplastic construction is fully submersible and provides long life in tough outdoor and indoor applications.
- Efficient Design - Easy to prep and run with a minimum of 2-5/8” of water to prime. 1-1/4” discharge with a 3/4" garden hose adapter.
- Usage - Able to handle flat areas like flooded basements, boats, and low-lying outdoor collection spots.
- Quality You Deserve - Proudly assembled in the USA for quality you can trust. Warrantied for 1 year for dependable, efficient performance.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 12.4 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | regoular |
Weight | 6.8 Pounds |
Width | 7.25 Inches |
20. Pump Sentry 822 PS- Emergency Power for Sump Pumps by Sec America
1200 Watt Battery Back Up System, UL & CSA ApprovedBattery Cables Included, Rugged Aluminum Housing Compact SizeFor Wall Mount or Surface Mount InstallationYou will need to purchase (separately) a 12 volt deep cycle marine battery up to 200 amps2 Year Factory Warranty
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 17 Inches |
Weight | 17 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on water pumnps, parts & accessories
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where water pumnps, parts & accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
We've been camping with our daughter since she was one. The only "toys" we take are a sand bucket, a toy shovel, a ball and bubbles.
We try to arrive early so we can pick a good campsite. We try to find one where we can use our car as a barricade between our campsite and the road, and one that also has open space behind the designated "campsite". Here are a few pictures of what I mean.
In this picture you can see I kind of parallel parked instead of pulling straight in, lined up with the road, so there is a very obvious line. "Don't go past the car.". (For clarification, the kiddo is in the tent with Dad, and I stepped into the "open area" for a second just to capture this picture. No fires left unattended. Promise.).
When we first took her camping we held her hand close enough to feel the warmth, and told her "This is hot, and you should not touch it. If you do it will hurt.". She helps me cook and is familiar with hot food and the hot stove/oven, so she understand pretty quickly. We also emphasize not running near the fireplace, and that rule seems to have stuck well with her.
In this picture you can see the benefits of the bucket/shovel combo. Our site was actually slanted and a lot of rocks had gone outside of the timber bounds, so we had her hauling rocks back into the campsite the whole time. Leave things better than you found them, eh? She added sticks and called it a tree house. I used the sticks as kindling that night. You can also see why I picked this spot - look at that open play area behind our campsite!
We use a toddler cot for our daughter, and have since she was very young (she's three now). My last suggestions are to have a flashlight just for them, and if they are past the "everything is food" phase, bring glow bracelets. We put one on each limb after dark so that she is easier to see.
We checked out library books about camping before going, and watched a Barney episode about it. That seemed to help, as she knew what to expect and was excited about it.
Plan food, but have a back-up method. It's pretty miserable when you plan on roasting hotdogs, but it's raining and it's taking longer than expected to start the fire and your toddler is pitching a fit. We always take granola bars, those pre-made PB&J frozen sandwiches, and a little stove set up - just in case the fire doesn't work out.
This next bit is not necessary, but it really nice for multiple night stays: We have this 5-gallon jug hand-pump. We take an empty bottle, fill it with potable water at the site, then use it for everything from drinking to hand washing and cooking. Kids are messy and this set-up makes camping a lot more enjoyable for us.
Lastly: commit, but don't over commit. Never get to the point where you are sacrificing sanity for the sake of "fun", and don't spoil the fun for others. During the learning-period we did have to bail once, as it was just becoming too miserable for any one to enjoy.
Good luck, have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. :)
Congrats! I too got one for my birthday and have put two all two all-grain batches through it in March. It’s super convenient but even with all the reading and YouTubing I did before using there was still a bit of a learning curve.
If you did not get the version with the built in pump, I would highly recommend getting pump recommended on amazon to help with recirculation during mash. I had a pretty difficult time the first time since I had decided not to use it. I noticed the built-in sensor kicking on the heating element on even though I was measuring a correct mash temp. On the second brew day I used the pump and the heating element did not kick on as much.
If you are using the amazon pump, I’d also recommend running it with the valve 50-75% open or to have the tube reach into the mash. I slightly modified my lid by drilling out the hole in the top to fit a 3/8” stainless barbed elbow. This was done to avoid kinking of the silicone tubing and to be able to keep the lid on during mash. The problem I ran into by doing this is the flow from the pump was too high and the splashing cause a foam to build up. The foam easily rose to the top with some bits of grain and husks, and could have easily spilled over the sides of the basket. I noticed this about 30 minutes into the mash and adjusted the valve to lower thr flow. I will likey test adding 6-12” of tubing on the other end of thr elbow so that the tube end is in the mash and not above to cause splashing.
My mashes have been full immersion using a bag and I’m temped to sparge with it to see if I can get more efficiency above 75%.
Thanks for the update! The discharge pipe is 1.5 inches, pit is about 22 inches deep, 18 inches in diameter. The current pump has worked fine for ~10 years now, but the power outage ruined that streak. I just figured since the 3/4 was essentially the same price as the comparable 1/2 I would go with that, didn't realize the other factors to consider that you mentioned.
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I'm now debating on whether to go with a battery backup combo unit or water powered backup. Someone else recommended the Wayne WSS30V 1/2 HP Combination System which seems like it may be the perfect replacement. Looks like it recommends a 75Ah deep cycle battery. The one from Wayne is $270, but I found this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump for about ~$100. Would this be sufficient to use? That would put the system at about $550.
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The other option would be to get a solo 1/2 HP pump like this Wayne CDU800 and Liberty Pumps SJ10 water powered backup. Comes out to about $350, but that doesn't count for having a plumber install the Liberty, and I have no idea what that would roughly cost, maybe you would know?
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I think these are my two best options, just unsure on which route to go.
You can certainly do it on the same day, but here's what I tend to do. As I drink the bottle, it gets a cursory rinse (enough to keep fruit flies at bay) and ends up in a fastrack. When I have a few fastracks full of dirties, I fire up the washer, do a cycle of PBW, then a cycle of fresh water for the rinse. The bottles stay in the racks, sparkling clean but not sanitized, stacked up to dry (they can stack 5 high/120 bottles and still be pretty stable). When I get 6 or 8 full clean racks and am ready to bottle, I fire up the washer with sanitizer. They get about 30 seconds each on the with Saniclean(the low foam version of Starsan), then stacked back up to drip dry while I get everything else prepped.
When everything is good and ready to go, I set a rack into a full size steam table pan (local restaurant supply stores have the 2" tall pans for about $10), invert the whole thing and you have 24 clean and sanitized bottles, contained in a ready made drip tray and ready to go. Each bottle doesn't leave its place in the rack from the time it's first emptied, through the cleaning/storage/sanitizing cycle until it's just about to be bottled. I'm not sure of pump pressures, but the pump that comes with the Marks Keg Washer runs around 500 GPH and was enough to produce about a 4' head on all 24 nozzles. I purchased this one after using that for a few months, this produces enough pressure to soak my ceiling with all 24 nozzles: Superior Pump 91025
Here's an actual serious list of things I got and LOVED and what I'm getting next time:
Also, what's coming your way seems more like Ike than Harvey. If I was looking at that I'd get
Here you go:
Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.
Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.
Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.
High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor
Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.
Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
this pump works great I use it on my mash and boil but honestly the temperature and efficiency hold pretty fine with or without it. But it is nice for whirlpooling when chilling or transferring to a fermenter
you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.
That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.
It's funny, I was originally looking at that exact pump on Amazon. It looks great and I like the price except it looks like it requires a vent to be tied into the vent stack. Is that correct?
I didn't want to have to run an extra pipe and cut into the vent stack. So I'm considering the Hartell because it specifically says it doesn't require the vent and I'm pretty sure it's the one installed in a This Old House video.
Short term: you can buy a pump like this this which will work on a floor and pump the water down to a very low level. Then you can wet vac the remaining water or mop it.
Long term: directing the water into the sump across the floor isn't the right solution - the water shouldn't be getting on your floor to begin with. It's best to control the water with drains along the perimeter of your footing/basement wall, and have those connected to your sump. That can be done either from the outside (excavating down to the footing & you should probably install a waterproofing membrane on the wall while you're at it) or from the inside (breaking the floor and installing a drain). Either won't be cheap. The inside solution will be "easier" to DIY but is still a lot of hard manual work.
Best of luck to you!
I have 3500W recommended by my electrician that should run my gas furnace via a transfer switch, sump, fridge, and a light or two, just not all simultaneously.
For generators, few things:
I also grabbed one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LRUDUU
The photos in one of the top reviews speak for itself.
You may also consider a drill pump, it's literally a little pump you attach to a hand drill and has a hose input and output.
Sorry for the late reply, I'm probably the only one who checks this sub. I have a double IBC tote setup, with this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-594-154-2088-Diaphragm-Industrial/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722510&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=in-line+water+pump+shurflo
With a couple of in-line filters: this on on the pump inlet: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-315-Swivel-Water-Strainer/dp/B002XM3IP2/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XM3IP2&pd_rd_r=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0&pd_rd_w=RXwRJ&pd_rd_wg=dIo1a&psc=1&refRID=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0
And this one (I think) on the IBC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strainer-mounting-stainless-screen/dp/B00CH18YFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722741&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+strainer
I think my long hose is 100ft. Is there a lot of head? What kind of sprinkler is it? How large of an area do you want to cover?
I have a sprinkler similar to this one that works pretty well, probably covers around 12x12ft? https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-medium-watering-troubleshooting-Needed/dp/B01HB1NVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722821&sr=8-6&keywords=sprinkler
I've used it with another sprinkler like this, but there are too many holes, so not enough pressure https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Light-Circle-Pattern-Sprinkler/dp/B000KL17BU/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722890&sr=8-47&keywords=sprinkler
I've used them in two areas in my yard with about an 8ft difference in head. Neither were effected much by the head difference.
At work we have 3 ~800gal cisterns for our plant nursery. We have a pump similar if not the same model as this one which we use for the normal back-and-forth style lawn sprinklers. It works great, but again very little head. I think we might be able to run two sprinklers at a time with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVPSK?ref=emc_b_5_i
Do you find it easy to brew 5 gallon batches in the brewers edge? I was actually looking at getting the brewers edge without the pump and getting a cheaper hot water pump and some tubing and using that to recirculate - something like this
If you or anyone else on the thread has tried this and could say speak about how well that would work I’d love some feedback.
It's not just about recycling, though. The three Rs are in order: Reduce, reuse, recycle! Recycling is important but it's way better to not make waste in the first place.
Another idea might be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2Y8Q
They go on top of those big multi-gallon jugs that you can either refill with tap or your local grocery store might have a filtered water refill station.
Went through the same thing this past summer. Here's what I bought:
Pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GMW/
Hoses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UH2SZLC/
5 gallon bucket from Home Depot
Vinegar from Costco: https://www.costcobusinessdelivery.com/Four-Monks-Distilled-White-Vinegar%2C-1-Gallon%2C-2-ct.product.11073510.html - came in a 2-pack in store. I think I ended up using both. Didn't dilute with anything.
I'm guessing you're probably watching some of the same videos that I did. Instructions were pretty easy to follow. Hardest part for me was nailing down the gear I had to buy to make my own kit. Everything mentioned above did the trick though. Hope that helps!
I would recommend going with something with a higher flow rate than your usual pond pump. I use a submersible utility pump with pretty good results. The flow rates and power of a utility pumps are better suited for pushing water through the 25+ feet length of an IC.
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=asc_df_B000X05G1A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167157107032&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4503259070638399636&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022866&hvtargid=pla-309607072756&psc=1
This is the pump that I have and I want to make sure that it is acceptable and safe to use. Any advice on this topic will be very appreciated.
Assuming you mean increasing the volume of water coming from the faucet, then yes. The reason that you'll get cold water from your hot tap for a while is that the water heater is usually pretty far away from the sink. Even if the pipe between the two is well insulated, if you don't use the tap for a while the water sitting in it will cool down. By opening the faucet more, you're moving the old water out of the pipe faster and getting hot water from the heater faster.
If you have to wait a long time for this to happen, you're letting a lot of water go to waste. This can be solved by getting a circulator pump. When installed it pumps water from the sink end of your piping through a return line and back into the system right before the heater. This moves hot water from the heater up to the sink without wasting any.
On the other side, getting colder water would most likely be moving room temp water out of the pipes and getting to water that was sitting in your well or underground piping from the city.
Edit: I should write faster.
Edit Edit: This is one of the pumps I mentioned.
Yeah it's a French drain, more like 6 feet long, not 12. I'm guessing that corner of the basement has a crack in it as my landlord didn't think they needed to carve out the trench anywhere else.
Good recommendation on the battery backup for the sump pump. Looks like $700 on Amazon.
Pump Sentry 822 PS- Emergency Power for Sump Pumps by Sec America https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CPYDVK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xVkRCbY2JKEZA
I'll talk to my landlord about it. Any idea how long this battery backup could work for? I know obviously it depends on what the pump is pulling and how often it cycles etc, but are we talking a couple hours, a day, possibly more?
Thanks!
Schedule 40 PVC is safe as long as you don't let it get moldy.
With that said, I've looked at gravity sinks and it seems like the downsides outweigh the upsides. Water weight high up means the van will be more top heavy and any imbalance will be exaggerated. It also requires quite a bit of support to mount. Being permanent, it's harder to fill. If the van is at an angle, you might not be able to use it (I'm assuming you'll be using a long tube of PVC). It'll be sloshing around while you're driving.
If you're going for water with no electricity, maybe look at something like this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526855465&sr=8-4&keywords=5+gallon+hand+pump
Those are just my thoughts. I speak from reading and looking at them, I haven't used one in person.
Well I just put hot tap water and pbw @ 114F through it instead of my usual 150F. Still pumping...
edit: I should add for google result purposes. I had this pump laying around from another hobby. It is barely powerful enough to do one tap at a time, I wouldn't try and chain multiple taps together with it. I have the pump in a gallon of solution on the bar top. It is pumping the solution into the chest freezer, out the tap, and back into the solution. So only like 5ft of tubing with maybe 2ft elevation. When this pump dies, I'll probably get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453738482&sr=8-3&keywords=submersible+pump
It is much more powerful and atleast it's rated to 120F. The ecoplus doesn't have a max temp rating, but the similar pumps at harbor freight say max 77F. So I'm guessing this ecoplus pump is not going to have a very long life span.
For mash circulation, you don't need much. On my small electric system (Mash and Boil) I use one of these.. That has a 2.1 GPM flow rate.
A step up would be the Anvil Pump at 3 GPM flow rate. It also has some added benefits like in line switch.
A further step up would be the MKII Pump with a 5 GPM max flow. I personally think this is the best performance for price (never having used it, and just reading specs).
What exactly is this pumping out? Is there a french drain under your basement? Just trying to confirm this isn't an ejector pump.
​
EDIT:
This seems like an easy DIY and had good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-ESP25-Upgraded-12-Volt-Battery/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sump+pump+battery+backup&qid=1567991829&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I had the same thing and I extended mine anyway. I bought 6 feet of some heavy duty clear hose with the same I.D.
My drain is like 6 feet off the ground. I had to drain into a bucket and put a pump in the bucket. Its a self contained system My plumbing buddy set up.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-105-0001-Laundry-Package-Including/dp/B0009TCDZ2
This might be overkill for your needs but it works great for me.
I haven't heard much about it around here... On the packaging note though you can buy tops with pumps that might fit the Noxzema container (I have this one for the Cerave tub) so that might be useful to you!
This is what I use. You have to prime this one manually. I Jerry rigged a switch to it for convenience. There are definitely nicer ones out there but it works great for us.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/m/video/0,,20260244,00.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GBUU7G?pc_redir=1397432871&robot_redir=1
I have another brand of one of these installed. It is a water powered backup. Saved me one time. Well worth it.
Hope the links work.
Well, there are a number of 16 oz jar lid pumps on Amazon. I just ordered this one to see if it fits the CeraVe jar. if it does, I'll report back. If not, I'll probably scavenge the pump, drill a hole in the CeraVe jar lid and stick it in there anyway. But it would be nice if it actually fit without having to do that!
Since my boyfriend has now discovered my jar and has started using it (how does he manage to always find my stuff?) I now have concerns about its hygiene.
I got this one from amazon and it fit perfectly
Surgeon's Skin Secret Pump, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005N9BHQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUKKAbG7N6KJD
I bought something like this for my Cetaphil tub. It helps me ration it out, otherwise I'll take like half the container in one scoop.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005N9BHQY
I'm not good with flow calculations but one thing you may want to check on is if this pump will push enough water through the chiller. The water going through any chiller should have a high flow to be more effective.
This pump is more money but only about $50 which isn't bad at all. Much higher rate of flow.
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91330-Utility-HP/dp/B000X07GQS?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_680335011_1&pf_rd_p=0044a74c-4cac-5fa0-a996-629c25ae8078&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=680335011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=DQKKZDPHXNHAXHBX4RMT&pf_rd_r=DQKKZDPHXNHAXHBX4RMT&pf_rd_p=0044a74c-4cac-5fa0-a996-629c25ae8078
I brew 5 gallon batches in a 10.5 gallon kettle, and I brew outdoors on a 65,000 BTU burner. I use this false bottom so I can direct fire during the mash. I modulate the amount of heat manually, the amount I need to re-heat the mash depends on weather and how often I pull the lid off.
I also use this pump to recirculate during the mash, it really helps keep the temps even throughout and it gives me a nice boost in efficiency.
We used this one and a spare set of washing machine hoses - it was super easy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this pump for tasks just like this. Comes with attachments for a garden hose and works like a dream as long as you don't have more than 10' of rise to your destination.
Pump and chiller we the best things to be added to our set up.
This is our pump https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-PC2-115-Volt-Portable-Transfer/dp/B000CPZTEK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482552424&sr=8-6&keywords=water+pump
This is our chiller http://www.homebrewing.org/Blichmann-Therminator_p_1282.html
We can transfer from boiling hot to ground temp a whole keggle in a matter of minutes. We can do 60-70 gallons in under 5 hours from first burner to pitching yeast and clean up.
Or just get a standard tank and one of these:
Watts 500800 Instant Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer, Easy to Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kdwDbZR6E70C
Works quite well for me. I set it up to a smart home plug so it is only running when someone is home.
I bought one of these for my CeraVe Cream and it fits perfectly! Highly recommended!
Sous vide ribs are amazing, especially beef. I use an electronic temperature controller, an electric roaster oven, a circulating pump, and foodsaver bags.
For beef, divide the ribs so that they fit in gallon bags. Slap a heavy dry rub on them. Vacuum seal them. Put them in the water at 140F for the first 4 hours. This is to ensure nothing nasty grows (I've cooked at lower temps to start, because rare and medium rare are my favorite, but occasionally a bag goes bad and blows up like a balloon) Lower the temp to 130F and cook for an additional 44-68 hours.
When they're done, let them rest a bit, so that you don't overcook them when searing, then take the juices from the bag and use it to make BBQ sauce.
Turn your grill up to max, and give the ribs a quick sear. If you want, brush with sauce, and sear a bit more. You'll end up with some amazingly tender ribs. Other methods can also produce fall off the bone ribs, but IMO, those methods overcook the meat and sacrifice flavor. Here the meat is still medium and pink, so it tastes like a juicy steak.
Pork ribs are similar, except I cook them at 145F for 18-24 hours.
I bought this pump on Amazon for my setup. Adding a hose shut-off valve allows me to adjust the flow of water.
Running full blast this will produce about the same about of water pressure as a garden hose on full blast, so it's really effective!
It paid for itself after the first use as grooming in my area is $80USD without the tip (and you should always tip your groomer if they do a good job).
My routine is not really indie. There is a lot of stuff about routines on /r/skincareaddiction btw.
Mine is like this:
Morning
Evening:
(0. if wearing makeup. Rub jojoba oil all over, and wipe off with damp microfiber cloth)
Here is a list of products:
http://www.amazon.com/Noble-Formula-Pyrithione-Zinc-Soap/dp/B004R3TBEC
http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES
http://www.amazon.com/Stridex-Strength-Medicated-Maximum-Count/dp/B000O1KP1O
http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Facial-Lotion-Ounce/dp/B003WN1ELQ
http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/collections/Skin-Balancing/_/Skin-Balancing-Oil-Reducing-Cleanser?ftlt=nonbranded&gclid=CL7nkp7kwMECFZBi7AodpFAALA
http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/Clear-Acne-Treatments/_/Clear-Regular-Strength-Daily-Skin-Clearing-Treatment/
http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Cream-16-Ounce/dp/B001V9SXXU
http://www.amazon.com/Surgeons-Skin-Secret-Pump-Ounce/dp/B005N9BHQY
http://store.acne.org/jojoba-oil
https://www.amazon.com/ESP25-Battery-Back-Up-System-Audible/dp/B000HOQZDU
Not the worst idea ever, a backup sump pump. Water backed pumps are alright, unless you have well water like me :P
I’ve used this one with good results. It’s not a great transfer pump, but it’s perfect for cooling. I use it in an ice water bath to temp control my spike fermenter.
Those robobrews are super popular. I have a Mash and Boil, and I know a few people who own a Grainfather.
Or you could buy an induction heater and use equipment you already have. There's no wrong answer. Also, I got this pump for cheap and it works great for recirculating the mash or moving wort to a fermenter.
The clear plastic tube that is zip tied to it is from the condensation pump for my HVAC unit.
You recommend Zoeller but is it better to get a sewage pump over a standard pump?
For a sewage pump, I was looking at this one but I don't know if a 1/3HP is a enough to push water up 8-9ft from the basin to outside the house.
Yep, completely agree. You can't fix this kind of thing by hacking it. You need to get to the root of the problem and fix THAT. First thing to do is to run a garden hose down into the basement and fill up that sump pit. The pump should kick on well before you get close to the top -- maybe a little over half way. It should take only a few seconds for the pit to evacuate -- 15ish seconds.
If it's taking a long time (more than 20 or 30 seconds), then the motor is about shot, or it was too small in the first place. If the drain distance is fairly long (more than 30 feet), it's quite likely that the sump motor was too small, because people often don't realize that you need higher horsepower for long drains, especially if the vertical pipe is long. Honestly, I just install 3/4 horsepower and don't screw around. You're talking about a price difference of maybe $60, and it protects stuff that's worth a lot more than $60, so why fool around?
If it doesn't come on until the water is very high (like almost out of the pit), then the sensor is probably going bad and might intermittently fail.
Finally, if the power in the area is dicey (like if the power goes out any time there's a little rain), then you might need a battery back-up sump pump, or better yet, one of these.
FYI - Amazon has the Watchdog for less, but reviews are spotty.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXZO6M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=36VYAXRSFNHGD&coliid=ID3FTUIOXMP3U
This one is even less money are far better rated:
https://www.amazon.com/ESP25-Battery-Back-Up-System-Audible/dp/B000HOQZDU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473792173&sr=8-1&keywords=back-up+sump+pump+battery
this is the one I bought for CeraVe; it fits perfectly and might work for Cetaphil as well.
I got this one awhile back and have been very happy with it. recirculate into a large batch of ice water once running with ground water to cool it down initially. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have an unusual setup that requires a bit of explanation.
Before I started using supersoil I used that Bluelab pH controller to maintain a 6.5 pH in the reservoir automatically. Now it's just an overpriced pH monitor.
Since the reservoir is tucked into that corner with a shelf above it, determining the water level was a challenge. The PVC pipe on the right has a right angle that goes down into the res about 3 inches. I blow into that pipe periodically when filling the res and once it bubbles I know it is full. If someone has a better idea I'd love to hear it.
Also, you'll see a pump on top of the res that's for aeration. It feeds an 8inch air stone at the bottom of the res.
The 3rd water line coming from the res on the right going into that cup is just to test the water if needed when the tent is in flower and can't be opened.
The 10gal bucket on the left is for hand feeding with a submersible pump, I hardly need to use that anymore either with this new supersoil setup. (edit: this is unrelated to blumats but thought it needed an explanation)
Anyone use one of these? Wondering if it is okay to use for only water or water and sanitizer/oxiclean? I wouldn't pump wort through it, just the sparge water and cleaning solutions.
Thanks!
I would buy a new Zoller pump if I were you. A 1/3 HP pump (you would need to confirm the existing pump size) is $160 on amazon . Zoller is a better brand than the product you posted.
Installation involves loosening some fittings, and threading in a new discharge pipe. Pretty simple job.
I bought this one after seeing it recommended in a thread here and it fits the tub perfectly.
Thankfully I have not had a failure. knock on wood The handles have helped me to control the carboy when lifting, moving, and pouring from it. Also if it’s going to be for potable water, something like this will let you not have to always lift it.
Water Bottle Pump - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p3unDbQZ3WX93
that grey water pump is excellent for a house, i just need a washing machine output used 2 x a week 1 adult+ 1 child in the house. bilge pumps look possible, and i lie the 12vdc power , the other sump/dirty water pumps are 110 vac, like this, $50 dirty water pump but they hook up to garden and hoses much easier
looks like a berm of leaves around the edge of that lake. can you open up a channel to get the water to drain into the woods?
if you really want to pump it out you can do something like:
https://www.amazon.com/WWB-WaterBUG-Submersible-Multi-Flo-Technology/dp/B018LRUDUU/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1519656062&sr=8-18&keywords=trash+pump
Ok, so what you'd do is get yourself a sprinkler pump (here's another one from Amazon) and a float switch. That particular switch is rated for 12 amps continuous and the first pump I linked is a 10 amp draw, so it should be fine. Plug in your pump through the piggyback on the float switch, sink your intake hose into the cistern, toss your float switch in, get your discharge hose where you want it, and turn on the pump. When you're done, shut the pump off. The float switch is to protect the pump from sucking air should the cistern run dry.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LRUDUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z6wADb2JMQZWA
Best wishes
there are also backup pump setups that run off a water main like this
A friend of mine bought a house with an electric one like you have and one of these as a backup.
I got something like this that I used to throw in a sink full of ice water (about 40 pounds, plus enough water to partially submerge the pump). It had no issue shooting through a 50 foot 3/8" SS chiller for recirculation. Benefit is you aren't tethered to any particular area for chilling, and it saves water. 40 pounds of ice is, like, $5, and gets you to pitching temps in under 10 minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS/ref=twister_B00MYTZO0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i use a recirculating sump pump to recirculate cold water thru a pre-chiller and then into my chiller. it works well. granted, I make 12 gallon batches, so this may be overkill for 5 gallons...
Also, I'll make huge chunks of ice a few days prior to keep my water cold. I'll then fill up a rubbermade bin and put my water, ice and pump in that.
i use this pump
Good point. It also looks like the cost of a utility pump that runs 1800 GPH costs less than the pond pumps that can push 600.
Would you recommend something like this instead?
Plenty of folks use a little DC pump. I've got one that runs my RIMS machine. It's not specifically certified for food contact, but it's all polypropylene and polyphenylene. Both of which are pretty much inert below 150C.
A couple hundred bucks plus install. Something like this. We have one and it is nice. The the shower heats up in seconds.
Your going to want a Sealed AGM Group 31 Deep Cycle Marine Battery - about $200-250 to go with one of the following combo pump - available on line from Amazon or SumpPumpsdirect.
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-508-0006-Sump-Pump/p14011.html
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/PHCC-Pro-Series-PS-C33-Sump-Pump/p6978.html
​
Here is a good battery.
https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/marine_rv/battery/duracell-ultra/sli31dtmagmdc
​
You also have the option of buying anyone's normal AC power primary sump pump and Adding an backup inverter battery source to it.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-822-Emergency-Power-America/dp/B01CPYDVK4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=sex+pump+sentry&qid=1569275179&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A37VQZG6U5MF8R&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUTJLU1lVTTJXRU9aJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjI3OTYzMTNTUVZPTEhJM1daSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODU5NTgyMkJSNUw4Uk9ZS1NBMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
What she said. This one works great for us: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/
Thanks for the heads up I didn't bother to think about a sump pump on amazon now I am leaning to using this one with the same cip ball you mentioned.
Every tank style hot water heater I have seen or heard of will heat the water, store it, and maintain a temperature. Getting cold water from a hot water line (for some short time) is usually indicative of just cooled water sitting in the pipe between the point of use and the tank.
I think something is wrong with your tank if you have to run the water for 20 minutes before getting hot water. Or perhaps the tank is very far from the shower?
But assuming a working hot water heater, I recommend something like this be installed under the closest sink to the shower. It will pull hot water and pump it into the cold water line. If you set it up correctly on the timer, it will keep the call for hot water set to an optimal time for you (20 min before you wake up). It should keep newly heated water in the hot water pipes between the sink and the tank during the time you set. So you shouldn't have to run the shower long to get hot water, just long enough to clear the cooled water between the sink and shower.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/
The downside is it could impact the water in the house for drinking. Because tanks can collect calcium and other minerals, there could be a higher density of this water in the cold water line put there by the recirculating pump. Just something to think about and research a bit.
I just bought this for my CeraVe tub! It's the perfect size for those jars.
Been happy with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If you're going to get a tiny pump like that, there are cheaper ones on Amazon like this one. The only difference being the connections. The one you linked has NPT which means it will be easier to hook into your current system, but there's no reason you can't use the one I linked as well.
If this is just a temporary situation, I get the feeling that it is, you can try to attach a hose to the shower/faucet to fill up whatever tub you come up with and then use a "sump pump" to drain it into the shower drain (https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-Thermoplastic-Submersible-91250/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519395090&sr=8-3&keywords=submersible+pump)
Edit: Also a shower seat may be the safest option (https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Bathroom-Swivel-Locking-Mechanism/dp/B01NAND3IR/ref=sr_1_15_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1519395407&sr=8-15&keywords=bath+edge+seat)
I installed one of these recirculating pumps a few years ago for the same reason.
It has a built in analog timer, but I just set it to always on and use a smart plug to handle the time schedule.
No this is a little brown pump.
They are cheap and fairly weak.
I would think a chugger should be perfectly capable, how big a hose do you have connected? It says its capable of 18.6ft of head pressure.
A hot water recirculator might be a better option for you. I dont think anything like that exists, or at least I have never heard of one.
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built/dp/B000E78XHG
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hot-Water-Recirculating-System-with-Built-In-Timer-500800/100426993
Basically just cycles the water through to keep the hot warm
You might be able to use a high temperature pump and just cycle the liquid from the bottom to the top. Something like https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I with some additional plumbing would probably work. Maybe something with more GPH if you think ~2 gallons per minute would be too little.
Buy a $50 submersible pump and hook a hose to it. Look at Amazon review photos to see the amount of water those things are capable of moving.
This is what I use, but almost any transfer pump works. That one is particularly loud, so if I ever need another I will buy a different brand.
It empties half my 125 in less than 15 minutes. I adapted a vacuum tube to the inlet side with parts found at any hardware store. To fill I attach a hose to my shower head with another adapter. I'll post pics of the adapters if anyone is interested.
It's way faster than a python system and doesn't waste water. You can run the output directly to your lawn/garden. Garden hose attaches directly to the input/output. They're also self priming.
You need one of these. Easy to install and hot water FAST!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E78XHG?vs=1
One thing I'm gonna do this year is buy a couple 5 gallon jugs of water and hang onto them for the season. So much easier than going out last minute for individual bottles which are usually the first to go. Even if you don't have an electric water dispenser, which I don't, you can buy a manual stand or a pump.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-gallon-Manual-Pump-for-Bottle-Water-Drinking-Water-Hand-Pump-Heavy-Duty-Drinking-Water-Pump/106855138
https://smile.amazon.com/Dispenser-Nonscrew-Stainless-Countertop-threaded/dp/B01N9YNUIG/
https://smile.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/
yes
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426310131&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller+m53
or
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-507-0008-Pre-assembled-Battery-Backup/dp/B002N6VHXI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426310188&sr=8-8&keywords=zoeller
Is there any way to tell is this pump is safe to recirculate wort and whirlpool? Temps seem fine, just don't want any issue with the plastic not being food safe
I have a Honda WX10 and it works awesome. Gas engine gives it plenty of power, but you might now want the noise depending on where you live. If I were to buy an electric one, it would probably be this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YVPSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sure!
hot water pump pump
800w souse-vide it seems the price went up on this one, maybe shop around for a cheaper 800W unit (I paid $55)
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
not self priming but sure beats gravity
I got the idea for the rotating keg cleaner from Will Troyer’s video.
Utility Pump
Brass Impact Sprinkler, the previous owner of my house left some of these, I replaced them with an in ground sprinkler system. Used parts from them for both the keg cleaner and the rotating sparge arm.
If you need more details let me know.
You guys need a hot water recirculating system. Easy to install and not too expensive.
Take with a grain of salt
I own a home with a basement/crawlspace drainage/underground spring situation. The sump pump I inherited with the house was always running at first. I installed a 4" pvc line that drains to the alley, plus added 6" gutters and downspout that is on the opposite end of the natural grade of the basement/crawlspace. Then installed This and everything is worry free now.
I know what you mean about changing reservoirs! Do you have a water transfer pump to drain your system and replenish it? It makes a big difference vs trying to pour water, especially for your back.
This transfer pump is cheap and effective, but it is a tad slow and you'll have to replace it every so often.
I use this one when I need to move a lot of water, since it's much faster.
In practice, I end up using them both.
related:
will this pump fit this cetaphil tub? everything I could find only mentioned the cerave in the tub.
I got the one in the Amazon link below. HomeBrew Finds found a deal on fittings from Pro Flow Dynamics, and that's where I bought the ball valves and other fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009TCDZ2/
I'd get that one. It's a beast and they're very good about warranty service.
Tie into the shower line if you can. I would skip putting in a ball valve. If the check valve, on the wye, is going to be exposed, you can put in a clear one so you can see what's going on on case there is a problem later on.
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com is my go to place for cheap PVC fittings.
My personal suggestion to backups of backup sump pumps is a water powered one. https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
I mean, a generator is fine and all (and definitely get one!), but unless you get a full automatic switch over, it may not operate at a time when you're not there and still need the backup to the backup to function.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TCDZ2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1PTZTHYRQJ1CT&psc=1
If you read the reviews, it looks like many people have used this pump as a washing machine pump.
The NR-210A has no flow requirement according to Navien. The NR-210 model has a 0.5 gpm min flow rate. Which is the same as my Takagi.
Here's the pump I use for flushing my tankless once a year.
Some simple washing machine hoses will allow you to hook up to the clean out valves. Just dunk the pump in a 5 gallon bucket of white vinegar and run it through for about an hour with the tankless in off mode.
This gizmoid. I use bottled water at home (skunky well water) so we thought there’s got to be a way to be able to have that convenience at a campsite!
I believe I use the same Solar Pump as you do, chino, albeit possibly with a different power supply (see here).
Any chance you can link me to the controller you use/the wiring diagram you used to attach it?
I dont recall there being a seal, but i suggest getting this pump to keep your tub a little more sanitary. ;)
http://www.amazon.com/Pump-for-16-oz-Jar/dp/B005N9BHQY
Also, not exactly related, but if you do decide to upgrade your rig to recirculating, it's not that expensive for a no-name chinese pump: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+water+pump&qid=1574359338&sr=8-5
I personally would recirculate hot wort through any cold-side or hot-to-cold side hardware if possible.
Also in re chillers, I put my chiller in to the boil with 15 minutes remaining, and pause the boil clock until it returns to boiling temperatures. Needs time to heat sanitize that as well.
Plumber here, buy this pump and this check valve . For your backup,it is a bit pricey but if you are on city water (well water wont work in the event of a power outage) I would recomend this pump It is powered by a stream of water so you don't have to worry about battery maintenance.
What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.
These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN
Here's a pump top on Amazon you screw on the Cerave tub.
Been in my new home for a little over a month with no washer/dryer (made sense to wait for black friday pricing). Water is in, 120v for washer is in, 240v for dryer is in. Utility sink is ready (not pictured). One last trip to home depot after work to get a breaker and elbow for vent and I will be up and running. https://i.imgur.com/ocpORPV.jpg
Granted, somewhat temporary setup as I need to install a pump under the utility sink the washer drains into. I just have a hose adapter on the utility sink to go into basement drain. I have the pump already ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009TCDZ2 ), just need to plumb it up and over to the main stack, might have the motivation to do that this weekend.
Part of the reason I didn't buy earlier was also because my water wasn't suitable for washing clothes (super high in iron). So the prerequisite for this was getting clean water. Now that I've got my new pressure tank and water filtration system running, it's time to tidy it up and actually run the electrical properly (cap is on pressure switch now). https://i.imgur.com/6a9miaj.jpg Planning on making a post showing all that once it's ready. Kinda conflicts with my need to run a half dozen loads of laundry, but hey, never-ending amount of cleanup to do in that room anyways.
Yes. Thanks for the recommendation. I'm not sure if it would be a viable solution for me as it states 12.5 gallons a minute. But, it is still a good fail safe in the event we lose power and don't have a river of water to compete with. Link for the model I just looked at.
My zoeller sump pumps move 72 gallons/minute each assuming a 5 foot up-pipe. My pipes are probably closer to 8 or 9 feet. I'm guessing I move about 120 gallons per minute during the worst storm.
I use the Wayne ESP25. https://www.amazon.com/ESP25-Battery-Back-Up-System-Audible/dp/B000HOQZDU
Decent pump, the issue is it probably wont last 72 hours. You would need a huge battery to last 72 hours on pumping.
I buy my deep cycle battery from Walmart, they have a 2 year replacement warranty on their Maxx deep cycle batteries. If it takes a shit and wont charge you get a replacement for free.
This fits on the tub nicely, and you don't have to worry about purchasing extra bottles, or a messy transfer.
> I just wish I could find a pump lid for the 12 oz CeraVe jars
They aren't that hard to find at container supply places but shipping is usually the deal breaker. Here's one from Amazon that could work.
Another option though, would be to use a smaller airless pump bottle for your moisturizer. Store the tub and just transfer into the bottle as you need it. Choose the size that would be most convenient for you.
Hot Water Recirculation Pump
It's worth it.
Yeah i found this which looks like a lot of people are using for recirc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or if i need a real chugger or something that can stand up to some grain mush. I think ill try it and see.
It's not as strong as the pricier pumps but it does just fine.
I even used one of these on a 5 gallon setup for a while and it was even able to do what I needed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What's your boiler wattage? I'm running 2.5 gpm with 85 degree water source on a 5.5 kW burner and haven't had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the link to the other post, and here's the one I ended up getting on Amazon. Unfortunately, it's sold out right now, just like all the others.
That flow sounds reasonable. I'd be conservative and aim for 10 gpm.
As far as pressure goes, the wand in the link looks designed to lower pressure, to give the soft flow you're talking about. Normally they are hooked to a city water supply at 30-40 psi, so they lower it by forcing it through hundreds of tiny holes. I'm not sure how the wand would behave at a low pressure (5-10psi) and its seems a bit wasteful to boost the pressure with pump to 40 psi, just to bring it back down.
Anywho, I'd guess 10ish psi might work (23 feet of lift). Since it's probably easier to just drop the pump into the trough, a submersible utility pump might do the trick. Something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398380781&sr=8-1&keywords=submersible+utility+pump). Might be nice to make sure a standard water hose can connect to it without many adapters.
Sorry draw this process out. Just wanted to make sure the shoe fits.
Several amazon sellers stock them for similar prices, here's one example. I've seen them cheaper without the AC adapter. Plenty of reviews on there.
Why is it the food grade pump on amazon is $30 but a pump for brewing cost over $100. https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I
There are portable pumps for exactly what you're doing. Here's one in Amazon, but your hardware store will probably have something, too. Wayne VIP50 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Portable Electric Water Removal Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ6CU4/
They sell 12v "brew" pumps on aamazon...supposed to be food safe but its all straight from china so who knows. Yoosan was the brand i bought...i use a chugger to circulate mash but i heard people use these so i bought one for shits and giggles. Can run 24v if you have an old computer power supply...really moves liquid too...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196WL55G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481382839&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=12+pump+food+grade&dpPl=1&dpID=41UOH0yLNPL&ref=plSrch
This is exactly what a sump pump is suppose to do. This will happen when it rains and probably a few days after as all the water that has soaked into the ground makes its way to the sump pump. As a back up you may want to look into either a battery backup pump or a water activated one. https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fphaCbPTYYWHJ
Not the best but it works fine. Isn't self priming though.
If you want to go radical, run a hot water recirculator loop to the sink and back to the water heater. a la Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer This provides rapid hot water response. Then insulating the whole loop reduces energy loss.
http://www.amazon.com/Pump-for-16-oz-Jar/dp/B005N9BHQY
Pump only, but they finally sell it with a pump now
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5PYR2
I bought this pump for my Cerave jar so I don't have to stick my fingers in off of Amazon.
A cheaper way would be a $1 10-gallon plastic tote with a submersible utility pump such as https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Submersible-Thermoplastic/dp/B000X05G1A/
http://www.amazon.com/Pump-for-16-oz-Jar/dp/B005N9BHQY/
This pump fits the cerave tubs lid.
I actually saw these lids on /r/skincareaddicition and these should work. I know they work with Cerave tubs. Besides that theres also these jars with a lid that could work, you'd just need to transfer your product into the tub.
This one fits. I bought it specifically for that cowash.
This one http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418884163&sr=8-1
Think it's this one.
don't think the washer will pump that high,you need a reservoir with a float controlled pump
https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-105-0001-Laundry-Package-Including/dp/B0009TCDZ2
This is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_97jMDbBNW8ATX
They'll just take some of the pumps from off the shelf. It'll be fine..
https://smile.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-Thermoplastic-Submersible-91250/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520462859&sr=1-4&keywords=sump+pump
Alternatively, you can get yourself a lid pump for your tub! Never have to open your tub again after the one time, and then you can just switch to the next one without much fuss or contamination.
Maybe some kind of hot water circulation system, so you always have hot water when you turn the faucet on. Most of them seem a lot more complicated than that though.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
Wayne ESP25 Upgraded 12-Volt Battery Backup System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVwOCbSW5RF0F
We have a sump and we bought something similar for power outages.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
I went with this. Saw it mentioned a few times. Seems to be decent.
This lid is what I bought and it fits on my CeraVe in the tub!
This is the one from the main post.
I use this is a cooler with ice to speed things up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A
I added one of those 3 prong adapter/switches too so I can turn it on and off without having to pull the cord out of the outlet too.
This is the pump I'm using.
The controller is a custom built BrewManiacEX controller. As mentioned in another comment, I plan on redesigning the PCB I'm using over the next few days, then do a full /r/DIY style build thread.
They got different ingredients (and probably different concentrations) and the one in the tub is thicker. The one in the tub has Petrolatum while the regular lotion has Polysorbate 20 and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate. I use mostly the one in the tub for my face.
I bought a pump action lid for the CeraVe in the tub moisturizer because I also prefer the pump action. Here the one that I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005N9BHQY
This solves your problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Premier-Water-Recirculation/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412538958&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+water+circulation+pump
You need one of these. It will keep the water hot at a distant tap. It also cuts down on wasted energy heating water that eventually just get cold anyway. Insulating the hot water supply line to the bathroom will help too.
I'm going to advise against this completely because it's not going to work, unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you wrote.
The water needs to be constantly circulating or it's going to get cold. If it only circulates for x time after someone opens a tap, they're still going to have to wait for the new hot water to get to the faucet.. and then the extra circulation will continue after they shut off the water.. which is just wasting energy since nobody is actually using the water.
It will be: open tap - wait for cold water to get hot - shut off tap after getting hot water - hot water fills the domestic hot lines, and then cools off because nobody is using it anymore.. and that seems to defeat the purpose completely?
You either need a small pump that is constantly circulating the water or, probably the best bet, is buying a small insta-hot for whatever location you want hot water. If you want it everywhere.. then try: something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
I have no experience designing systems for residential, but I make a living designing plumbing for industrial/commercial/superconductor/hospitals, etc.. so I don't know jack about who makes decent quality systems for the home.
There are multiple reasons why a house would have a pump in the basement.
A sump pump is an open topped, clearwater device used generally for removing rainwater or groundwater from a basement.
An ejector pump is an entirely different device that is sealed, vented, incorporated into the plumbing system, and used for removing below-grade wastewater from a basement.
A sump pump gives you a lot of options as to the how and where, and the plumbing code does not really refer to how you manage water on your property if you're not tying into the plumbing system. Personally, I don't like to see emergency sump pumps discharging into a sewer, as a back-up could cause a flood in the basement, and a clogged (or flooded) line can prevent the pump from removing water when needed.
I prefer to see a sump pump leading to a water retention device such as a dry-well, cistern or leaching ring, so long as the device is not itself prone to flooding. Another option would be leading the discharge end to an actual down-hill area that can reliably accept the discharge.
Don't assume that the presence of a pump is an indicator of a bad situation. I don't like having floor drains that lead to the sewer system in finished basements, and usually try to outfit mechanical rooms (with RPZ's, boilers, water heaters and AC units that are prone to water discharge) with pumps and water alarms rather than floor drains.
Finally, if you're prone to power outages that would render an emergency pump inoperable, consider a water-powered pump like:
https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
This pump has some warnings to consider with it. If you have an electric well pump supplying your domestic water pressure, a power outage would knock that out as well and render the device inoperable. This device wastes a tremendous amount of water and is frankly the last option to employ for that reason. The device has the potential to introduce a high degree of hazard to a plumbing system; an RPZ must be installed on the water service to the home (to protect the municipal water supply) and I would want either an RPZ or a double check valve assembly with an intermediate atmospheric vent at the device to protect the occupants of the home from poisoning. These devices are known to generate an intense water hammer when closing and would require a piped in water hammer arrestor upstream of the device. Finally, don't forget to leave this device in an accessible area.
I personally believe that all basements are giant bathtubs just waiting to be filled. Make sure that your tub has a drain :-)
Utility pumps work well, but be aware that they only function when manually plugged in. Most don't even have on on/off switches. You might want to buy a 33 gallon garbage can to temporarily hold the water. Since all you want to do is to move water 10 feet vertically, and there isn't a lot of water that you need to move, the one you selected will probably work. I have this model
If you want to automate the waste water disposal, get a sump pump as /u/potatopasted suggests.
If it is just the washing machine, something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TCDZ2/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_6_w.
If you have a utility tub and bathroom or wet bar, you would install something of the same concept, but larger.
To install it will require you to cut a hole in your basement floor
http://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
It uses the magic of siphon suction, water flow to pump. The catch is, its only for being a backup. Otherwise you will waste water like crazy. You would only want this if you had city water. If you live on well, and pressurize your own water source, it would not be a good solution.
I am horrified for you! So gross!
I have one of these pumps that fits a CeraVe tub perfectly and because of things like that it is worth every penny.