Reddit mentions: The best powersports tie-downs

Many thanks for all the info -- if I, as another recent Guzzisti convert, can ever be of help, please don't hesitate to PM me. V pleased to hear it's same mounting set up, the wind fatigue is manageable until I'm spending hours doing 80 on the freeways here (as I'm sure you can relate to). Don't really like the look of any fairing on the bike, but it sounds like it's relatively easy to pop on/off

Alas at my height I'm reluctant to go to the racer clip-ons, as anything that would bring my hands further forward would probably increase my size problem. I'm halfway on the pillion seat just to have my knees in the proper position (where you have your pads). I've also looked in to dropping my pegs but popular opinion (AKA internet/forum queries) seems to indicate there is very little room on this model (about ~.5' on the clutch side). Oh well, time to start shopping for a 2nd bike :)

Like the sounds of your future mods, definitely want to see pics when you wrap the tank. In terms of the seat/grips - many say the stock seat is garbage, but I don't think it's so bad. At the same time, don't think you're missing out on much (and if you want, I'd swap mine for yours). The stock grips I wouldn't worry at all about (unless you like the look), they're really about as basic and boring as they come

In terms of your soft bags - the one quick fix I would say is get some Rok-straps these ones, just make sure you don't get the smaller size as they don't hold up well. Obviously you're limited in what you can do with those, but I think it's probably the best $22 I've spent on anything gear/equipment related. I used to almost always ride with a backpack on the back, but now I always strap it down. I didn't realize how nice it feels to be completely free on there and now I can't go back, even if it means taking the time to strap down before a <30m ride. I also, as needed, can now fill my backpack & strap something else down (example: went to Target recently and bought a few small things (into the backpack) but got an appliance in a box that was ~2.5'x1'x1', and I previously would not have been able to transport while riding (definitely not in the backpack, and probably not in most saddle/tail bags either) but I just strapped it down and rode from Long Beach back to Santa Monica w/ it no problem). No mods needed, you just loop em through the passenger bars underneath the rear of the seat. It also would probably be even more useful for you than I, as I have less room on the back half of the seat as per my earlier height issue comment. For multi-day rides you'll probably still want double bags, but for <1-2 day rides you will thank yourself and me

The ECU re-map just changes the fuel injection configuration (I will assume you're talking about Todd/GT's remap, but if it's something else then let me know) from stock - although Todd recommends (and performed on my bike) adjustments to the evap cannister and tip valve accompany it. I got the remap now as: it is borderline mandatory after changing exhaust hardware, I'm planning to get new exhaust in the next month or 2, Todd already had my bike in his shop for my 600mi service, and Todd will do free re-maps for 12 months after initial purchase (so I'll get it done again once I buy the megs from him). I'll admit that the change (while still on stock exhaust) is not massive, but probably still worth the $350 it cost (think it's $500 if you can't bring it in, but probably still worth it IMHO). It's extremely smooth when I cold start the bike now (before, 1 in 10 times it would die, even when it didn't die the revs didn't sound quite right and would bog down until warm). Torque is more even, especially noticeable in 1st gear (making heavy traffic, low speed filtering much more manageable / less jerky). 6th gear is much better as well. Think there may be a small overall power improvement across the board, but it's hard for me to say for sure as I only had ~750mi on it before the change was made

Sorry for the long ass post but I'm not very good at being succinct

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

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Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

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Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

Since you live in the Southeast, and especially in a coastal area, hurricanes and tornadoes should be a concern for a shed. Depending on your area, you may or may not have to get a building inspection for a shed under 120 sq ft. However, since we built on a commercial property, we were required an inspection for a 8x12 shed, and our inspector made us install these before we got final approval. These anchors are meant to hold down mobile homes, and can very well save your shed in a hurricane or bad storm. They're not too expensive, but one hell of a workout to screw into the ground.

When I bought them 2 years ago, Amazon was the cheapest source, but I'm not sure if that is still the case. I would recommend using a heavy iron pipe as a wrench to install these. A pro-mobile home place will also have a tool that fits onto a compressor-powered drill to install them, but that gets expensive quickly.

Edit: I reread your question. I would not use a cinderblock foundation. Instead, I would dig out about 1-2 feet of earth with 2' of leeway on each side of your shed, and then fill will large gravel and pack it down really well. Buy gravel from an earth materials place by the 1/2 truckload -- its cheaper that way. You can rent a compactor from a tool rental place for around $50 a day. I forget the grade of gravel we used, but the pieces are between 2-3 inches each. Then place 4x4's on the ground, and the shed on top of that, and anchor with the anchors above.

It is often cheaper to buy a quality shed than build one. We found an 8x12 amish made (high quality) shed from a lot near us that had been repossessed by a finance company. It was $1300 delivered ($2400 new), which is cheaper than it would have been to build.

When looking at shed construction, you want to look for the opposite of what is available at your local home depot. Things that matter are:

1. How far apart the floor joists are (12" is best; cheap ones use 16-24" spacing)
   
   
2. How far apart wall studs are (no more than 16")
   
   
3. What wall studs are made of (2x4's are better than 2x3 or 2x3's, plastic studs are crap)
   
   
4. What the floor is made of (plywood is better than presswood)
   
   
5. Outside walls should be siding on wood, not just siding mounted to studs
   
   
6. How the roof is constructed (as close to residential quality as possible -- just shingles on wood will leak).
   
   
7. Vent Quality -- you want vents on both short sides, and real vents, not just circular saw cut gaps in the wall.
   
   Finally, once everything is completed, don't rely on just a handle-lock, since these are really easy to pry open. Bolt on a good hasp and use a padlock as a 2nd line of defense.
   
   I think I've covered all we considered when buying a shed; If I missed anything, please ask

I suggest securing the backpack to the bike (shouldn't be a problem with the rack I see there). This will keep fatigue levels down, as well as general comfort and safety.

If you are interested, look into Rok Straps - I have been using them for decades and they have never failed me and are simple to use. Happy riding!

I have a ‘17 Slim, added a sissy bar and one of those $15 suction cup pillion pads to sit the load on, (suggestion from someone here) and I stack that mother high, I can carry quite a bit. If I had the Motherwell rack (but I ain’t paying $150 for that tiny thing) I could stack more behind the sissy bar but so far I haven’t needed to.

I also bought 4 of these strap rings (link below) that I bolted onto the bolts on the sissy bar and onto the fender struts on each side so I can strap things more securely. I pull a 12”x12” (also on Amazon, $8 bucks) cargo net around it all and I’m good to go, it’s worked well.

Ps. I bought a bolt on sissy bar and side plates at Dennis Kirk cuz I didn’t want to mess with relocating the tail lights. Got the bar for $90 (Drag Specialties Short Square) and the side plates (Cycle Visions Black Powder Coat) for $72. Exact fit for the Slim

Bolt on Loop for cargo tie down

If you know how to sew and have access to a sewing machine you can make some great restraints with nylon web and steel D rings. If you cant find a local shop to buy your supplies you should be able to get it all on amazon.

Here's what I used to make my own:

At least 64 inches of 2-inch nylon webbing
https://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Polypro-Webbing/dp/B003K2BNR4

2-inch steel D rings - 4 of those
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002I03QT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473861931&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=2%22+steel+d+ring&dpPl=1&dpID=41eLENuUUQL&ref=plSrch

2-inch sew-on velcro.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D8MPRWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473862024&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2%22+sew+on+velcro&dpPl=1&dpID=51jblEDy80L&ref=plSrch

Felt fabric
https://www.amazon.com/100%25-ACRYLIC-FELT-1281-72-WD/dp/B001THXM6C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473863302&sr=8-9&keywords=felt+fabric

1. Measure the circumference of your wrists and add 3.5 inches for the restraint to overlap and about 1 inch at either end for the hem. That will total up to something like 12 inches per restraint.
   
2. Cut 4 more pieces of nylon at 4 inch lengths. This will be used to reinforce the D-ring on the inside of the webb.
   
3. Cut 4 pieces of both parts of the Velcro. You’ll end up with 8 total pieces, 4 hook, 4 loop
   
4. Cut 4 pieces of felt – 2in X 7.5in to fit to the inside of the restraint. Padding for your victim.
   
   Put it all together
   
   
5. Hem the webbing or it will unravel. Fold the extra inch at either end of the web and sew it down for your hem.
   
6. Add the Velcro at pieces at either end and sew it down. Make sure to test wrap it around your wrist to make sure the Velcro orients right (don’t put both pieces on the same side of the webbing).
   
7. Slide the webbing through the D ring and position it at about the center of the webbing.
   
8. Set your 4 inch piece of web on top of the flat part of the D-ring and sew it into place. This part holds the ring so it wont move around inside the restraint.
   
9. Place your felt on the inside of the restraint and sew it into place.
   
   Hopefully the instructions are clear enough. Here’s what I posted when I made my own set.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/BDSMcommunity/comments/4vc902/diy_bondage_on_the_cheep/
   The red pull tab in the pictures wasn’t in the instructions above because I didn’t want to overcomplicate things.
   All together I spent about $24.00, but I bought all that locally.
   
   Feel free to ask any questions.
   

Looking at photos of the bike, a tank bag would be pretty hard. I'd start by getting a backpack w/ plenty of storage. Get some "Rok Straps" and mount the backpack to the tail of the bike w/ a bungie net for extra safety. Avoid standard bungies with metal loops, they will scratch the paint off your mount points so straps are much better.

Saddlebags are a good idea but I think strapping the backpack down will be best.

https://dowcopowersports.com/iron-rider-rumble/

http://bikebeauty.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=182

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520897640&sr=8-3&keywords=rok+straps&dpID=514CB6kW07L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/PowerTye-50152-Black-featuring-Adjustable/dp/B0022ZXO40/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520897649&sr=1-2&keywords=bungee+net

With those size quads you can grab a 10 foot side load trailer and be very happy.

The problem with rear load only is you either need a longer trailer (to fit them nose to tail) or you'll need to hop on the deck and manually lift/shift your quad to sideways after loading it front ways.

I highly, highly recommend tire straps. They have been game changing for me. I hated strapping in the quads. Took forever, had to compress the suspension, paranoid the whole time I was driving, because if you hit a bump and your suspension compresses a little, it can shift the quad and you can imagine how that would turn out.

These things https://www.amazon.com/Erickson-09160-Wheel-Chock-Tie-Down/dp/B015CJICIK (yeah yeah I know, /r/hailcoprorate) are the shit. I drive on, ratchet the tires down (I use two for each quad on Front Left / Rear Right tires) and leave. Literally done with two quads in < 5 minutes by myself. And for $40 per quad.

Others have said and I'll add, your dealer was an idiot with the handlebar tie down advice. If you need to strap the anything other then the tires, strap the frame. And have someone sit on the front when you do the front, then the back when you do the back. Get the suspension compressed down.

As far as trailers, side load + rear load is ideal. Best case you can get one with tires under the flat deck so you can load from any angle and any location, but they're pricey and (imo) they look ugly for some reason to me. I have two quads and this trailer gives me the ability to load 3 if I need to, pretty happy with it. The ramps tuck under the deck (came with it) and are easy to tuck away quick and pull out and move around.

https://bendtrailers.com/iron-eagle-atv-series-6-5-x-12-atv612w-trailer/

(I didn't buy it from there, that's just the first thing that came up when I googled the trailer).

I was also seriously looking at a Echo trailer (http://echotrailers.com/EE-9-13-Elite.html, the 14 foot version) but couldn't find one in stock. Steel vs Wood is a tossup of Pros and Cons, but I really wanted a 14 foot trailer damnit. I also like some of the options the trailer has (built in ratchet straps as an option, etc...).

Try and stick with 15 inch tires if you can.

I literally just did a shit ton of research on this to make my last purchase, so feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any questions you can't get answers to.

Marlon, Triton and Aluma trailers are also good - more pricey though as they are aluminum. But your buying some significant weight savings in the trailer, so food for thought.

Keep seeing posts looking for mount options on small cars. Your car probably has tow sockets front and rear + one loop for either. These handle thousands of pounds and you probably have the first one in your jack kit already. Just get a second factory tow loop off eBay for the pair.

Remove the covers and screw in the anchors. Then run straps front and rear plus through the side windows. Ratchet straps are best. Tighten all 3-4 straps until you can’t wiggle the boat with good force.

Photo shows a triangular strap setup since our factory mounts are off center. Third strap goes through the opposite window and to a grab handle. Protect hood paint with a soft cloth. Also shown are purpose bought foam supports front and rear. Complete setup is stable at highway speeds.

LINKS

Foam Kayak Blocks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCLL4LA/


Straps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7P7EOX/


Flag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4RX3AM/

Anchors - eBay search: make + model + some of tow hook towing eye loop bracket ring

The foam pads work great, but i never trusted the tie-downs. Use the foam pads, but get a set of better straps. If you really like your yak, get these. If you are a little more cost conscious, have used these in the past and have never had a problem.

Hmm, you might see if there's someone out there willing to rent you a utility trailer (think the metal mesh ones often used by land scapers), or a dual rail Kendon.

Uhaul trailers are very heavy. Very.. they are built to take a beating for years from un caring renters. Their 5x9 open is Empty weight: 1,240 lbs.

For reference - thats usually the weight of a 6x12 enclosed trailer.

So with two bikes (figure 400 pounds each for sport bikes) you're over 2000 pounds. This is likely more than you want behind a car.

A smaller utility trailer will be something like 3-400 pounds.

Uhaul vans - I don't think they allow one to carry bikes inside. But... don't ask, don't tell applies there too.

> Another question is what else we need besides straps? E.g. wheel chock?

Wheel chocks are immensely handy. But if you're only doing this one time, then why spend the cash. - But if you're looking for an excuse to buy on - go with Baxley. Hands down the best.

https://www.baxleycompanies.com/Sportchock.html

Get some soft straps - they are basically webbing figure-8s. They can be pre-positioned on the bike, allowing one to more easily hook up the bike to a couple straps, quickly.

On a street bike, do two soft straps, one per fork leg, around the leg, above the lower triple. In back, the passenger pegs or sub frame are handy for soft straps

Soft straps:
https://www.amazon.com/Ancra-45214-14-Black-Soft-Extensions/dp/B0012TWXFI

I like cam straps because they're easier to work with than ratchet straps. I have Ancra straps that are fantastic. I'd definitely buy them again. I also prefer to use use Canyon Dancers to hold the bike still in my truck bed, but its rear wheel is nestled into the corner of the bed and acts as a chock, sort of.

I have a 5-gallon VP Racing fuel jug. It has served me well, but it's tough to mess that up. I imagine any decent jug with a hose will do.

My ramp is a generic folding metal one from Amazon. Says Raider on the side, but it's exactly like that one I linked. It takes some getting used to, but I use it to get my bikes into and out of my truck bed by myself. Even the one without a kickstand.

Congrats! For future reference, you can get some handlebar straps for pretty cheap, I've used this one a couple times, highly recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/Canyon-Dancer-37505-Original-Bar-Harness/dp/B000GASYVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1541266699&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=motorcycle+handlebar+straps&dpPl=1&dpID=31uG9KIQ5IL&ref=plSrch

That's a good one. For my bikes, I like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/High-Roller-HR601-30-Handlebar-Harness/dp/B003CJSAEE/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3

It's a little more adjustable. I have bar end mirrors, and the High Roller (haha!) let's you adjust a bit better than the Canyon Dancer.

I've been really happy with the OverBoard Dry Duffel and ROK Straps for my motocamping setup.

But I have a nice rack to strap down to. Your CBR might not be as accommodating without some other add-ons.

My dad has about 20 of these, and they're the best load securing method I've ever seen. We typically use 6 per bike.

Also, I'm curious how your straps failed. Was the webbing rubbing against any metal on the bike or trailer? Generally nylon doesn't fail without reason.

Not sure if this would've helped, but i really enjoy this sleeve thing that came with my R1 when i bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/Straps-Harness-Trailer-Scooter-Motorcycle/dp/B00GURR0RS

Just get some regular straps like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY4VG66

Tighten first from kickstand side strap til its just tight then tighten the other side til you can put the kickstand away. Then tighten them both til the forks are a little compressed but not all the way down.



That trailer's more expensive then my truck. Lol

Garbage bag could also do the job. See which ends up being lighter/as study as you need it to be. I bought a Seal Line dry bag off Amazon before a recent tour, and it ended up being this strange, quasi-conical shape (rather than a cylinder of the same radius for its entire length). Haven't used it since because of the strange shape.

Also, while I think of it, these are fantastic straps for attaching something to your rear rack:

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10025-Black-Motorcycle/dp/B00SXJLLBW

Here's what I do with my Fender. [Rok Straps}(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVAJJNO) are your friend. As is a Reunion Blues case.

I've had really good service from Ancra straps. Ancra on Amazon

PS the best thing I ever bought for securing bullshit to my bike was Rok Straps. Pricey for what appears to be glorified bungees, but so much better.

I recommend these for the future.. ROK Straps ROK-10358 Black/Reflective 12" - 42" Pack Adjustable Stretch Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVAJJNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nvt7xbNCTKW3W

I also have them strung with a galvanized wire. My original wire snapped and 3 bulbs broke in the fall. I bought this to restring them, it's working great. Note: the picks shows clips on the ends, but the wire actually just has a loop one one end and nothing on the other.

Amazon has em for $12. Fork Support

i switched to the orvis silver seam... sonic seam..? what ever they are called, because the boots lace up and can be tightened when not wearing the felt liner. they are pretty... ok, nothing stellar. in my neoprene waders I added an additional insole and if they are still too loose I cut a pair of these down to size to help tighten things up a little more:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Powertye-Buckle-Lashing-Strap-2-Pack/dp/B01KP24GMK

I recently came across "Rok Straps". Half bungee, half ratchet.

Edit:

In use on a motorcycle.