Reddit mentions: The best range replacement plug receptacles

Hey!

So, I know this isn't 'conventional' water/liquid cooling, but I am not sure what's the right place to ask.

I've recently gotten "re-interested" in mineral oil cooling. Back in the gap, Pudget Systems was trying to refine the idea of mineral oil cooling. I've tried to gain insight from their writing but some of it is vague.

My first question pertains to oil "climbing" out of the enclosure via cables:
>The custom motherboard tray also allows us to install a power socket, and a control valve for the air hose. These connection points serve a distinct purpose! By not running any cables directly into the oil, we prevent wicking.

I can't really see what's going on in their pictures. It almost looks like the motherboard I/O is just barely sticking out the top of the mineral oil. Their power cable solution looks similar to what I was thinking: Using some sort of plug/cable like this secured to the case with a rubber gasket to help seal the oil in.

Would "plug extensions" of this sort combined with a gasket form a good enough seal to prevent mineral oil leaking/climbing/wicking? Do you think I can find similar extensions and gaskets for Ethernet, USB, and other kinds of cables?

Will wireless peripherials/receivers work if submerged in mineral oil?

Are there any special considerations I should make when selecting pumps, tubes, radiators, or reservoirs for a mineral oil system?

How do you think the cost of mineral oil vs traditional liquid cooling compares?

If I remember correctly it is 22V. And sorry to say I don't have link for the socet/fuse as I just picked it up from a local electronics store. But this one is quite close to mine. A bit more "Chinease" but anyway hope it helps. https://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00F4MFMXE

So for 240V it's two 120V lines in parallel. A dryer outlet should be 240V 30A with two 120V lines (red and black), a neutral (white), and a ground (green). The Foundrywired for 240V with the correct fuses, as seen in the manual will be two 120V lines and a ground. My guess is you'd need something like this with a male adapter end like this on your Foundry.

If you can get the correct ends you could make all these yourself relatively easily. However, I'd only say to do that if you're comfortable working with electrical components yourself. Also I'm not an electrician, but I did wire up my DIY brewery and have converted a table saw from 120V to 240V so I do have a bit of experience with it.

Assuming you have room for it behind your range there is an adapter you can buy to make it easy on yourself.

https://www.amazon.ca/Canada-Wire-Range-Power-Adapter/dp/B01M6ZLQXC

Check your breaker box and see if it's a 20A or 15A breaker. If it's a 20A, you can replace these outlets with the 5-20 outlet and get ~1mph extra charge if you also get the 5-20 adapter from Tesla for your UMC (it all adds up when trickle charging).

If your HOA don't let you do this, you can get an adapter (ONLY USE THIS IF YOUR BREAKER IS ACTUALLY 20A!).

I need it for connecting two boxes that have these https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Power-Inlet-Sockets-Connectors/dp/B00843KZP0#Ask on them

You mean like this?

I used these two walkthroughs as guides:

• http://imgur.com/a/uGyF1
  
• http://www.instructables.com/id/2-Player-Bartop-Arcade-Machine-Powered-by-Pi/
  
  
  
  Total estimated cost is ~$500 based on:
  
  
• Flat-pack wooden cabinet with T-Molding: $185
  
• Joystick Set: $65
  
• Misc parts to make missing LED cable from Joystick Set: ~$15
  
• 22" Monitor from Craigslist: $20
  
• Raspberry Pi Kit: $50
  
• 128GB MicroSD Card: $41
  
• Speaker Bar: $20
  
• LED strip kit: $12
  
• Cheap Power strip: $8
  
• Power socket: $6
  
• Custom Marquee Printing: $50
  
• Miscellaneous Home Depot Purchases: ~$25

         Parts List for (PID Controller Box)<br />

Some of these parts may be purchased at your local hardware store for a cheaper price.....


• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: http://amzn.com/B002PIM3R8

• Solid State Relay w/ Heatsink: http://amzn.com/B005K2IXHU

• PT100 Thermocouple Sensor: http://amzn.com/B008MU0VFY

• Aluminum Project Enclosure Box, Econobox: http://amzn.com/B005T7RPFC

• 3 Pin IEC320 Male Power Socket w/ Switch: http://amzn.com/B00F4MGRRE . TIP - Replace Fuse With F15AL250V.

• GX16-3 Aviation Connector:http://amzn.com/B00FB56T04

• Black - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H414

• Gray - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H428

• IEC320-C13 Power Cord: http://amzn.com/B0012EI6KE

• Rubber Feet: http://ebay.com/itm/351131287090

• Heat Shrink: http://amzn.com/B00EXLLXK8

• Fork Terminal Wire Connectors - Non Insulated ~ 16-14 AWG: http://amzn.com/B00LUUAB94

• Female Disconnect - Non Insulated: http://amzn.com/B0071OXJ5Q

• Insulated Copper Wire ~ 18-14 AWG

• Nuts & Bolts