Reddit mentions: The best rc radios & parts

Yep, the DIY is entirely solder based. Its literally basic aeronautical/electronic engineering when designing a quad. The thing is they break pretty easy with beginners flying and doing the building, let alone a bunch of kids.

If your going to do this I would recommend looking into tiny whoops for the kids to get into. They are super cheap and can be modified almost to the scale of a full miniquad except on a much smaller scale. They can be fully tuned and modified as heavily as you want and the kids would get the basic concept of how a quadcopter works. You can just buy all the parts for them and teach them how to assemble them. Assembly requires no soldering unless your installing a camera or new power connectors. They are super fun for beginners and can be built pretty tough. They don't go super fast but they can be modified heavily to make them zip, which makes them safe yet fun. They don't hold up amazing outside, but they do pretty good. Since they are so small you can make super fun indoor tracks with loops for them to fly though. Just flying around a house becomes a big jungle gym when your that small.

For tiny whoops you really just need the following parts
Frame - This frame is not designed for the whoops, but with a couple snips of the battery holder and some foam inserts it becomes one of the best. Its also cheap...

Flight controller These flight controllers will give you the functionality of full mini quad running betaflight. This will allow you to fully configure and tune them on your computer allowing you an opportunity to teach them how a flight controller works. I would recommend looking up Joshua Bardwell's youtube channel and looking at his PID tuning classes. I won't get into the details but PID (proportional integral derivative) tuning is the mathematical filtering your flight controller is doing behind the scenes. Your flight controller is taking in information from its measurement devices (acceloromiter, gyroscope, and sometimes even barometers) and running it against the values you give it to check for divergence of error from the desired values and compensating for it by applying filters. Basically it allows you to make your quadcopter fly the way you want it to fly. You can make it fly loosy goose or like an automated robot and almost every quadcopter made uses this type of system behind the scenes. Do note that the larger the quad the more you can work with in terms of the software controlling the system. These tiny whoops can be locked in with tuning but you have to remember they still only weigh like 10 grams.

Motors These motors are the best in the sense of range of performance. If you got some of these sample packs you can mix and match motors to show what a motor with higher kv does compared to one thats lower. Higher kv on these motors = more power but more power draw and less flight time. This is also effected by the propellers you are using.

Props The frame comes with some props but you can lose them pretty easy. Nothing really special about these but they get the job done. Also it helps to chop off two of the blades on each prop to make them more efficient for a little power loss.

Extras-- I don't know if your looking to get into fpv with the kids but the whoops are able to support a small camera and you can fly them with with either a monitor or goggles. This stuff can be found on tiny whoops website or youtube. If you need any help selecting stuff feel free to message me.

Other necessities--
Radio Your gonna need a radio and I'm not sure how to make this cheaper. Radios are really just something most people only buy one of and they spare no expense if they use it a lot. The only cheaper radio on the market that is worth looking at is the flysky radios, but I'm not sure if they would work with the acrowhoop board. You have to have an frsky radio for a frsky board or a spektrum radio for a spektrum board for these.

This got kinda long so I'm gonna cut it here. If you need any help just let me know.

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS3X1BF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V5MVAECJYWCD&psc=1 (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786FQJ7F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VMS4C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZTBUF0TDJOMN&psc=1 (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0W2NOS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZJBTAG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4&psc=1 (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:

Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1
Whoop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P5777Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3GZUGKBRUI9VM&psc=1

Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

I never thought the flybrix was worth it...it's a gimick in my mind...

Look into the Eachine QX90...

http://www.banggood.com/Tiny-QX90-90mm-Micro-FPV-Racing-Quadcopter-BNF-Based-On-F3-Flight-Controller-FrSKY-Taranis-X9D-p-1069614.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=allison&utm_campaign=Smlrfpv-ds-58fpv&gclid=CMW10MXBrc8CFYpZhgodeW8M1A

For $55 bucks you not only get a pretty fun brushed quad, it comes with FPV too (you'll still need a video reciever for the video, but it will work the same if you don't use the FPV unit)

You will also need a Transmitter, something like a Devo7e will work...

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Walkera-Devo-7E-7CH-Transmitter-Mode-2-Without-Receiver-p-48117.html

Thats another 60 bucks...but it will bring more joy to flying than using a shitty bluetooth app...

Since the QX90 doesn't come with a reciever you'll need one...

https://www.amazon.com/Spektrum-9645-DSMX-Remote-Receiver/dp/B004M12GY6

Thats 34 bucks but I think you can find it cheaper...

I mean for a little more than the cost of the flybrix you get something that will be 100x more enjoyable to fly and not only that if you wanna spend a bit more on some FPV goggles you'll have an FPV miniquad too...So much more bang and fun for the buck...

Or you can look into the Induxtrix FPV....not released or shipped yet, but it's all the rage for indoor fun...

Your tech director seems like he thinks he's a "know it all" kinda guy...but he's pretty wrong if he thinks the flybrix is cheapiest and most robust...

Also, I know you want the ability to control via iOS/Bluetooth, but honestly you really don't. It's pretty terrible to fly anything via a phone and it teaches you bad habits. why not just go with proper equipment and not teach your students bad habits when it comes down to it? it's not much more expensive, and in the end it's gonna be a lot cheaper..as you'll still be able to use a proper Transmitter if you decide to upgrade the quads pretty much forever..with the flybrix you are kinda stuck with the app, and what happens when they stop support for the app?

Edit: the ready to fly inductrix is even cheaper and if you wanted you can get a proper transmitter for less than the flybrix...

Blade Inductrix RTF Ultra Micro Drone with Safe Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011UDQYSC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3Mv6xbTVS308F

Just look up Tiny Woop FPV and you can see how much fun and more safe it is to fly than the flybrix...i mean you weren't looking for fpv flying but it's till a cheap option if you want to move to fpv too..

Edit2: also you should know that brushed motors for these kinds of quads have a finite lifespan before the brushes wear out and you need to replace the motors...the lifespan is generally around 5hrs of use... So yeah take that into account too...

So a Tiny Whoop is a 66mm quad thats not really designed for outdoors. Its VERY VERY small - no more than 2-3mph of wind. You could get one with camera, upgraded motors and a controller for < $120, easily. I have one and love it for bashing around my house or office - its really not for a large outdoor space, but is a ton of fun indoors.

The atom is a full on brushless quad, writ small. You can either build it yourself for around $300, or buy ones built for $320 from Helipal (hint, its a tough build, and if its your first you might not want to build it). While people do fly them inside, it doesn't have protected props or anything and its very powerful, so it might not be good for indoors until you get very good or have a very large (like gym sized) space. I have one and even with the lower power 1104 motors I wouldn't fly it inside. If you want a brushless indoor quad, the Lady Owl might be a better choice given its a similar size and integrated prop protection. You could build a lady owl for about the same price ($320). A 610mah 3S battery should get you 7+ mins.

As for radio. For a Tiny Whoop you need a spektrum compatible radio, so you can do a small cheap MLP4DSM for $40, or you can move up to the Devo series (The 7e is popular). You could move all the way up to the Taranis X9D and add an OrangeTx modules (make sure to get version 1.2) and control anything Spektrum and anything FrSky from 1 radio. I currently run the very similar 9XR Pro radio with Orange and XJT modules. The 9XR Pro is $70, plus $35 for a XJT module and $35 for an OrangeTX module.


For a receiver - there's one builtin into the Inductrix, so no need there. For a small build like the Atom or Lady Owl, you'll want a smaller SBUS-based receiver like the FrSky X4R-SB or the XSR. They use a better protocol for communication and respond faster, and are only about $10 more than the D4R-II - about $35.

Goggles: I've had Teleporters (terrible), Attitudes (acceptable), have used Dom HDs and Dom V3s (very nice, but not worth the Money IMO) and currently run the Skyzone Sky02 v3, which have been my favorite. Diversity antennas, 40ch, builtin DVR and about $360.


Given your budget, I'd get both if you have that 10k sq foot space.

Get the inductrix, camera, motors and batteries for about $100 all in.
Get the atom pre built (or build yourself) for about $340.
Get the taranis and orange module for about $280
Get fat sharks or sky's for $300-$500.

All told $1000-1200

That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.

There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.

For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510987554&sr=1-1&keywords=QX7

This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.

Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.

For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPYW549moGE6OSj5qNa8vx67, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles-review-fatshark-skyzone/

It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.

Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.

Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.

For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPaYMlsaWxSg7xr7xZXbxhf1

This is the FlySky one on Amazon for only 4 bucks more with free shipping.

I personally don't have very large hands and really enjoy mine. I have both the FS-i6 (which is the same as the tgy-i6) and the 9x and I always want to fly with the i6.

It has a solid build quality and can use PPM (only one cable from the rx to fc for less clutter) if you buy this Rx to use with it.

I personally think that the i6 is a really great radio. That being said however, it seems like everyone else likes the 9x, so you may just want to get that.

If you do happen to get the i6 and have some questions I would totally be willing to help out if I can! Cheers.

I learned to fly on my own, with some input from my uncle who is an expert RC pilot, and alot of online research. First, I would recommend getting a decent transmitter and not cheaping out, for reliability, features, and to have one that will carry over to future planes. I have the Spektrum DX6i for about $140. You can find them at most hobby shops, or Amazon, eBay, etc. You can use this transmitter with a mono 1/8" cable to plug into your sound card, and use the free simulator [FMS] (http://modelsimulator.com/) along with a program called Smart Propo Plus to practice flying for free. For your first plane, I would start with the Hobbyzone Super Cub. It's a nice prop plane with no ailerons, which makes it very easy to learn takeoff and landing techniques. It handles well, parts are readily available and cheap. It is also very durable and will handle rough crashes well. This version is Bind & Fly. This means there is easy assembly, and you simply install a jumper to automatically bind the receiver to your transmitter. Let me know if this helps, I can write more details about how I started learning to actually fly.

Maybe check out reviews I don't know from experience but Betafpv recently released this Seems like a decent idea, since it's frsky protocol. It's cheap and not going to be a great device compared to a proper transmitter. But 3 for the price of one proper radio is pretty good, and more quads in the air is a good thing.

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP


And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400


Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A

Hey! I sure will. Thanks for your reply. That sounds great. I'd like to experiment with the cheaper FPV goggles before I invest in something nice. One quick question for you on the transmitter, is the FS-I6x good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/?coliid=I24XHKH2B0O5Y8&colid=3E2Q40NU5VK0A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't mind spending $30-40 more to buy something that will last me through upgrades (FPV being the biggest one). I see it has 10 channels out of the box and is only like $10 more than the FS-I6. I appreciate the reply!

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm

Notes:

1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
   
2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
   
3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
   
4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
   
5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
   
6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
   
7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again
   
   Questions:
   
   
8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
   
   1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
      
9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
   
   1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
      
   2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
      
   3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
      
   4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
      
10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    
    1. TLDR they are normal
       
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
       
11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first
       
       Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)
       
       (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)

I appreciate the effort. This seems promising and may be the better idea, the other route I was going to take was the Bardwell kit with some other stuff.

https://store.rotorriot.com/bardwells-budget-build-kit/

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-1300mah-4s-100c-fpv-lipo-battery

https://www.amazon.com/usmile-receiver-Support-FS-iT4S-Evolution/dp/B07FMFG6Q3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542217789&sr=1-1&keywords=fli14

https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8

https://www.getfpv.com/new-arrivals/ev-peak-e3-falcore-edition-35w-3a-lipo-battery-balance-charger.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=6769f39dd3014cb5619db31a54b18438

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542221619&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+stripper+and+cutter

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Titanium-Nitride-Driver-Wrench/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1488911480&sr=8-3&keywords=hex+driver&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=d53d845db871ab90fe110b2918f60a7e

$381 no shipping/tax and the build kit comes with accessory kit including motor screws for CL1 5mm thick arms, double-sided tape, FC stack mounting screws, XT60 power lead, zip ties, and heat shrink.

​

Your idea seems like it may be "too little" for the project but I am honestly ok with that because I rather get something done then bite off something too big to chew and end up having to figure something out last second and it being a piece of crap.

​

So does that flight controller stick right into those frames and then you screw them in or something? You say I only need to solder the the power wires to the camera, where do the motors go? I probably sound like an idiot but I'm not really an electrician or carpenter, I don't build things, other then computers :P. I need to head off now so I can't do so much research right now and I spent all day researching today.. won't have much time tomorrow, we are going to tour a college. Can you recommend a good video that would go along with this build? Tomorrow, I am going to ask the teacher if the TV in the room I am presenting in has analog input, if not we go from there. We have access to a 3D printer but a lot of people are going to be using it most likely and I think its slow but I can definitely get the camera mount printed. Once again, appreciate the effort.

Another option is to get a off-the-shelf quad like a Syma or some such, that'll give him something to start with that isn't too bad, under or around the $100 mark.

I've got a Syma X5SW, had some great fun with that for awhile, but now it's on my bench with a SPRacingF3 Deluxe wired up and a flysky-compatible tx/rx setup. The brushed motor driver board is $5 off RTFQuads, controller board $30 on Amazon, and the tx/rx combo is about $50 as stated earlier in the thread.


My current build parts:

https://www.amazon.com/Cheerwing-X5SW-V3-Explorers2-Headless-Quadcopter/dp/B011JV9HA2/ - base quad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E58V09W/ - FC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0P8Q8U/ - tx/rx

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW57OUM/ - 5v boost convertor, 2pack because they were cheap

http://www.readytoflyquads.com/brushed-motor-driver - The Syma motors wire into this, this wires to FC channel outputs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M75FQIO/ - tiny PPM/iBus-capable receiver because the stock one in the tx/rx bundle is unweildy


It's all wired up on my bench now and running, original motors and all.

Overall it comes out about $150-ish, but you get something to start with to understand how it flies, and then you have all the pieces so you can take it apart and upgrade it. When you want to go bigger, you have the core parts already all paired up and ready to go, just need to tweak the FC for the new platform.

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
PDB
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Camera
Batteries
Charger
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

I used these:

Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7E-8AbSHNSN3C

Way better than the standard ASRock one on my Z370 Fatal1ty and much smaller, too. Don’t ask me how that’s possible. 😂

5GHz is especially good with these. Ask me tomorrow and I’ll check what my link speeds are, if it’ll help. FWIW, I’m behind a 6’ tall mirror and two interior walls, plus a hallway. In total, maybe ~25 feet away from a Synology RT-2600ac with both bands active on a 100Mbps Spectrum package.

I bought this range extender on Amazon for less than $20

It has performed very well over the last few months! The extender significantly increased my maximum range. It also has massively decreased the amount of "Strong Interference Detected" warnings that I receive when the phantom is well within its range. The build quality is good and it is easy to put back on to the antenna before every flight. Best accessory I bought for my Phantom 3 Standard.

If you're flying near maximum range, be very aware of which direction your controller is pointing. Turning the controller can cause it to immediately lose signal.

Would a remote like that be worth it for future use when I decide to try FPV on bigger quads? Or would it be better in your opinion to get something cheaper like a FlySky (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KHJ262Y?psc=1&smid=A34HJKC6MYVCWW)?
Edit: Found 9x for $60 Hobbyking sweet! lol

Welcome to the best and most confusing hobby there is! Haha so dsm2 and the newer dsmx is the protocol that is used by Spektrum radios. The linked radio is a Flysky radio (not to be confused with Frsky) and will NOT bind with the flight controller you are looking at. Something like this radio would bind with any dsm2 protocol receiver. I would definitely suggest sticking with that flight controller, and looking into a Spektrum radio because it is much more popular and there are many more options.

Thank you for the advice! I am just using Eachine EV800 goggles with the Eachine ProDVR and this VTX. So while having nice DVR footage would be ideal, right now I'm just playing the budget game and making the best I can with this :) Sorry if the choppiness and all is an issue

This is the drone that I have built:

Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.

Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.

Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!

Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms


These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html

1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days

Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html

Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.

Looking at the Amazon listing, you’d need the following:

• A transmitter that works with the version of the drone you get (basically the remote control itself). Low end FlySky radios go for ~$55 and FrSky radios start around $100 (it’s a bit more expensive on Amazon).
  
• Either a set of FPV goggles or a monitor so you can actually see what the drone sees. Low end goggles start around $60ish and become very expensive very quickly.
  
• Multiple extra batteries for the drone, as a single battery lasts only a few minutes in the air. Rotorgeeks has comparable batteries for about $5 a pop
  
• A proper charger for the batteries, since it would take forever to charge multiple batteries at once with that supplied charger. I unfortunately don’t know what would be a good charger here, since my micro drones use a different battery connector than the Snapper.
  
  Frankly, though, if I were you I’d start off with a lower end starter pack. The Eachine E013 is in roughly the same size class but comes with a simple transmitter and a simple pair of goggles for ~$100. You’ll still have to get more batteries and a better charger, but it would be easier on your wallet and more forgiving as a new pilot.

If you're interested in learning you can start out with a simulator and an a real transmitter. It connects to your computer via USB. Personally, I used Liftoff (through Steam). A good transmitter to use is the FrSky Taranis Q X7. You learn a lot of the muscle memory and overall mechanics this way.

Then without breaking your wallet you can pick up a micro quad like this and practice indoors or even outside with just line of sight. Beyond that, it starts to get expensive. FPV goggles are pricey. You really get what you pay for. The cheap ones are hot garbage. FatShark is typically the way to go.

As with any hobby there's a very deep rabbit hole and a huge learning curve.

This guy's channel is a great place to learn stuff: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX3eufnI7A2I7IkKHZn8KSQ

Altitude hold and return to home are just a crutch. While they can make learning slightly easier initially, it won't be long before she outgrows them completely (a couple of days of practice, at most). If you're REALLY set on something with altitude hold, you can look at something like the JXD 510G but personally, I don't think it's all that fun to fly and I have trouble recommending it for beginners.

I've been suggesting the Tiny Whoop as a great beginner quad to anybody who is looking for something that can also do FPV.

It's really tiny (good for indoor flying), durable, and some of the parts, such as the motors, are upgradeable down the line.

There's a package complete with a transmitter and FPV monitor already. Or you can get the BNF version which comes with ONLY the drone, so you can spend the extra cost on a higher quality transmitter and some very basic beginner FPV goggles (FPV Goggles > FPV monitor, in my opinion).

Oh and dont forget to pick up some spare batteries too!

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

---
This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.

---

Specs:

| Part | Price | Purchased at |
|:-----------|------------:|:------------:|
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase

---

Notes

Replacement Power Switch

• For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.
  
  
• For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.
  
  

  CPU Cooler
  

• I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.
  
  

  Case Fans
  

• For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard
  
  

  Velka 3 Sidenotes
  

• So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  
• It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  
• One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person

you'll need to upgrade the ESC because thats only rated for the stock 20T motor. the amp is a good choice but i think i would look into some cheap brushless systems like others said. dont forget you'll also need a new Tx/Rx combo. the Flyskk GT2E is a good start:
https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-GT2E-2-4ghz-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3QC7C

Emax Baby Hawk (amazon doesn't sell the BNF version):
https://www.emaxmodel.com/babyhawk-85mm-brushless-drone-bnf.html

Taranis Q X7:
https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504715829&sr=8-1&keywords=taranis+qx7

Eachine VR-007 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-Goggles-Headset-Glasses-1600mAh/dp/B072M8FL3Z/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1504715875&sr=1-2&keywords=eachine+vr+007

These are far from the best components you can buy, but for the money they're hard to beat. Also, I believe the Babyhawk comes with 1 battery. You'll definitely want a few more, as well as a charger.

Best value I know of is a Devo 7e for $60 and flashed with Deviation firmware to get DSM2/DSMX support.

I like my flysky. They're the same as Turnigy I think? Remember that there's a huge difference between the FS-T6 and FS-i6, the i6 being newer with telemetry and stuff. link for Flysky

Also recommended are the OrangeRX and TX systems. Link to Orange TX

Noted!

Bummer to hear I might have chosen wrong. I guess I'll just roll with the 600mw for now and maybe get that $12 one down the road? I don't expect to be flying with others.

Do you have any recommendations for antennas to use with the AKK FPV TS5828L 5.8G 600MW 40Ch Mini AV Transmitter that I've got? Strong preference for buying at Amazon with the free 2-day shipping.

People who bought that receiver also bought:

• Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug
  
  
• Fontic FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug
  
  
• Crazepony 2pcs Aomway Antenna 5.8G 3DBi 4 Leaf Clover for FPV Multicopter TXRX (RP-SMA Male)
  
  Do they have the right type of adapter for what I'm working with?
  
  Also, I have these Crazepony Eachine EV800 FPV Goggles 5inch 800x480 5.8G 40CH Raceband Auto-Searching Build In 2000mAh Battery as goggles.
  
  Will the plugs work?
  
  I saw a bunch of other circular polarized antennas on Amazon last night, but can't find them now. Some were shorter with the mushroom top.

Doesn't mention the strength of the vTx. Might not happen.

I was using this Eachine. It was good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475128653&sr=sr-1&keywords=eachine


This would be really good. http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:unify_pro

The FOV on those goggles isn't that good. I just upgraded to Dom V3's and the immersion is amazing.

Thanks!

Am I correct in thinking that the transmitter that comes with an RTF plane is really only just good enough for that plane?

I was looking at the Sport Cub S BNF version with this transmitter, thinking that if I like the hobby, I can upgrade planes without buying a new Tx.

> Does it matter brand which receiver that I use?

No

> Like are some more compatible than others?

yes, for example you can use the spektrum satellite receiver stand alone with an arduino. The arduino can decode the serial data stream from it.

To use a normal receiver you can either connect every single channel to the arduino (wouldn't recommend) or generate a PPM signal from all channels with something like this: http://store.3drobotics.com/products/ppm-encoder

> Can I control two Arduino Mega with the same Receiver (AR610)?

sure, but keep in mind that you won't get more than the 6 channels your receiver is capable of

I ended up buying these tiny antennas from Amazon. Performance has been the same as the stock antenna so far, but my PC is in the same room as my router so signal strength isn't really a problem for me. Aesthetically, they are perfect in that they are so tiny as to be basically hidden amongst the cables plugged in the back.

For a more budget option, I'd suggest the FlySky FS i6
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y
It is reliable, fairly high quality, and also has cheap ~ $10 USD receivers (fs ia6)

A newer model, the Taranis X7 is a well made, reliable radio, although more expensive. However, it's the best on the market right now for its price. Its very new, and might be hard to find, but it's ~ $105 price point is well worth it.
http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7-2-4ghz-16ch-transmitter-white.html

Thanks! I can switch over to AKK switchable VTX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N948FF7/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_3_w
And grab a 5dBi antenna as well. Hadn't heard about this one though, and frankly too many out there not sure which to pick up! Did you have any vtx to recommend?

Transmitter is great. That is fine. I would not get the L9R receiver. That is way too big for a quad. It’s meant for fixed wings I’m guessing.

Here’s what you want:
FrSky R-XSR Ultra Mini Redundancy Full Telemetry Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QHJRBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oho3CbNDC67EQ

Or for the same amount of range (just no telemetry):
FrSky XM Plus Mini Receiver up to 16CH ONLY 1.6g Full Range Fit For Micro Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5INCBH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yio3Cb8ANCDCF

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9E33XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJM6ybRDZN741

This is the camera that most people are putting on tiny whoops(really small drones). I've used this exact one, and it works pretty good. It will only give you about 50 ft of range though.


If you are looking for more range, you will have the buy a camera and a transmitter, such as these two:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xMM6ybVKT9E49

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6GPYS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wNM6ybJQT95DW


EDIT: you would also need a recover for the video.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H36AIGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6PM6ybWV3Y0EJ

This puts out RCA to a monitor of your choice

You have no idea how helpful you are!

I only have 1 question left to ask, I was looking at the deviation transmitters specifically this Walkera : https://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484613948&sr=8-1&keywords=Walkera+devo

On the deviation page it says it supports flysky : https://www.deviationtx.com/

so would that amazon linked transmitter work with the flight controller you linked here : http://www.banggood.com/Beecore-F3_EVO_Brushed-ACRO-Flight-Control-Board-DSM2-For-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-Eachine-E010-p-1089021.html?rmmds=search

If so i think i will be going with one of the walkera since they are more in my budget.

Highly recommend the akk vtx it performs extremely well for the price point it hits and competes with the immersion rc stuff plus it has a pigtail which means it's way harder to break. Also contains a safety feature where it doesn't immediately power up to any mw and you can change channels to avoid interference on start up.

AKK X1P 5.8Ghz 40CH 25mW 200mW 600mW Switchable FPV AV Transmitter with Pigtail for Racing Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rHqNybYHKC7XJ

Can anyone tell me what size Ipex connector is used on the receiver of the FrSky Eachine Lizard95? I bought this set of antennas on Amazon thinking they were the correct ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD445X/

But it was immediately apparent they were a noticeably larger Ipex connector. When I tried to put them on they could be wiggled right off with next to no force. Nowhere near the strength (and snap) of the original antenna.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? I was hoping to use Amazon prime so I can get back in the air faster, but at this point I'll take any vendor that ships from the US if the price is fair.

Ah, thank you for clarifying

It's this one: GoolRC FS-i6 AFHDS 2A 2.4GHz 6CH Radio System Transmitter for RC Helicopter Glider with FS-iA6 Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_WKGOybBQJ7P6M

I saw that there are a few sim adaptors but it's kind of daunting not knowing which ones are good or junk

These are the ones I use on my Gigabyte Aorus B450i mobo - 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RPSMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4a5ODb60E28V4

Works very well

Walkera Devo 7e. Not the best, but with the deviation open source firmware and a few hardware modules, that one radio can operate on over a dozen protocols. You can easily increase the transmitting range 10x with a bit of soldering. I've been using it on my quads for 5 months now, hasn't let me down.

You might be cutting it close. Here's a 6 channel tx and rx for 52$: flysky i6 Then a motor and ESC will probably run you another 30-40$. But youll also need servos (~10$) , battery connectors, batteries, charger, etc. If you already have any of those you very well might be ok.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These have worked well from me, and are pretty small

I use ones that are used for drones. My gigabyte z390 mini itx has the the connectors close too. 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No problem with antennas at all. I mostly use Ethernet so wasn’t concerned about the look. Good luck.

I love eachines https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700tvl-ET200-200mW-Transmitter/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474931947&sr=8-1&keywords=eachine+200mw

If you want a cheap cheap one, it would be smarter to just buy this one off amazon, compared to making one.

https://www.amazon.com/SKYREAT-Parabolic-Standard-Controller-Transmitter/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=pd_sim_421_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DC0ZCN4&pd_rd_r=0B343NANQF31Y1AGTAAA&pd_rd_w=TFjiy&pd_rd_wg=lBjVC&psc=1&refRID=0B343NANQF31Y1AGTAAA

One of the posts on this subreddit asked about transmitters, and a person replied that this was a good cheap option in terms of transmitters. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Flysky-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y. What do you think about this one? (By the way, he didn’t link this specific one, but he said that this transmitter was a good option)

It's not mine, NCSU hired some professionals to take this footage. I would guess they did take outdoor footage of the library as well, but I'm not able to find much else about this. I don't know what it was used in.

Of course, you could always do it yourself - two examples at opposite ends of the spectrum would be the expensive but high-end DJI Phantom + a GoPro, or a cheap low-quality quad like the V959 (with built-in camera).

The quad in that video looks custom built, but I recognized the transmitter as the DX6i which is basically a beginner/intermediate transmitter, so they probably aren't even very experienced (by that I mean, anyone could do it with just a little practice).

It's the older style pdb. The motors aren't running at the time is the photo. I've slowly been removing more and more of the electronics from the frame during test. At this time only the ESCs are still attached and the signal cables are completely opposite the signal wires. Did you ever clear this up?

I've tried a TS5823 and one of these with no luck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N948FF7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501840317&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=akk+vtx

I have another quad with a cheap pdb and fc and vtx that doesn't have these issues.

Yeah I agree with stoneyyyy the qx7 is the way to go.
FrSky 2.4G Accst Taranis Q X7 16 Channels Transmitter Remote Controller White Battery and Battery Trays Not Include https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072559WH9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECKDDbT8CG4FZ

you should maybe buy one from amazon like This one and then if its not the problem then just return it

This. I have a 1/18 scale Latrax SST that my LHS insisted could handle a 2s lipo. It could not. I just finished a 1/18 buggy build on a vintage Associated RC18B. That motor burned up too using 2s (bummer...they don't make those motors anymore.) I got frustrated chasing speed and burning parts so I swapped them both to brushless systems. My suggestion? Time for a swap.

In my RC18B (buggy), I run this esc and brushless system along with this radio, and to save your drive train, you really ought to pick up a programming card which is WAY simpler than it sounds: it allows you to control voltage cutoff for LIPO batteries (keep this at the highest number available), the amount of punch upon startup (keep it soft for that buggy), brake force (start at 25% and work your way up), reverse force (keep this at 25% for your buggy), and the neutral range (a smaller number here means less trigger pull to engage the throttle/reverse).

Anyway, that's my humble opinion. Take it or leave it.

I use these. They are tiny but work well, my router is on the floor above me and I've never had a problem with these

Sure, I ran into some issues with a few lemme grab you a list

List:
[Makerfire 4pcs] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRJMVCC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

4PCS ML2206S 2400KV 2CW 2CCW Brushless Motor 3S-4S For RC FPV Drones QAV 210 250 300 Mini Quadcopter Multicopter

RAYCORP 5040 3-Blades 5x4x3 Propellers. 16 Pieces (8CW, 8CCW) Black & Green 5-inch Tri Blades Quadcopter & Multirotor Props + Battery Strap

[Uxcell a14120500ux0277 30Pcs M3 6Mm+40 mm Male-Female Nylon Hex Stand-Off Pcb Spacer Pillar[(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YM3SNAU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)


Wolfwhoop WT05 Micro AIO 600TVL Camera Only 3.4g 5.8GHz 48CH 25mW FPV Transmitter with Dipole Brass Antenna Combo for FPV Quadcopter Drone

FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter

Makerfire FPV Goggles with DVR 5.8G 40CH Raceband Build-in 2000mAh Battery for FPV Racing Drone RC Quadcopter

I have the QX7s, everywhere I looked I saw that the QX7 doesn't have a charging port. Reference

But it's possible they've updated the TX since then.
Edit: They have

With this $15 range extender, I've gotten 2024m over lakes, and 1400m over land. Over urban areas, I get about 1km, which is supposed to be its max range. The important key is making sure you are always directly facing the drone and having the extender facing it directly.
https://www.amazon.com/SKYREAT-Parabolic-Standard-Controller-Transmitter/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469742363&sr=8-2&keywords=phantom+3+range+extender

So, just arrived, it also didn't come with a controller, because I'm not so great at fully reading descriptions lol any reason to not go with a FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e4VLAbY579SZE ?

The FS-T6 is kind of old, you're better off with the FS-i6 for the same price.

Someone else would have to comment about the FC; I haven't used KK2.1. You will need some way to get 5V to the flight controller (like a polulu 5V step down or matek PDB or something).

Also you'll need a power supply for the battery charger. And probably more batteries.

Build

Frame: Crazepony 70mm

FC: FuriousFPV RaceWhoop

ESC: 2x 2 in 1 10A ESC 2-3S BLHELI-S Dshot

Motors: 1104 7500kV

RX: FrSky XM+

Camera: Wolfwhoop 600TVL 25mW

OSD: Micro Minimosd

Batteries: Nano-tech 2s 300mAh 35C

63g AUW.

The battery voltage sags about 0.7v under load since I have nano-tech packs that only ave a small balance lead with long 22awg wires. I hope to get some new batteries with an actual discharge port. As you can see when I disarm it goes back to 3.5v/cell.

Since I recently purchased the receiver, I think I'll just return it and start over. This looks like it should have what I need: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519086107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flysky&psc=1

Any thoughts?

What is a wind surfer exactly ?

I got this guy SKYREAT Copper Parabolic Antenna Range Booster for DJI Phantom 3 Standard Controller Transmitter Signal Extend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BIZsybR6S042P and it seems to be working well

[The ET200] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MSGmxbNBM58SY)

It's got the small LEDs to show you what channel you are on. And comparing the list of channels from the transmitter and the list of channels from the receiver, they are listed as being the same.

At this point I don't know what one to believe if either. I wish I could get another receiver to link up to it so I could actually see if the channels are what they say they are. Because as this point my goggles are the only thing hooking up and it doesn't have a channel display.

Since your micro uses DSM2 I would look at going with a DX6i. This Tx would be compatible with both DSM2 and DSMX. Full range DSMX receivers have been tested up to 1.5 miles in range depending on conditions.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/

Would this be acceptable?

Rather than using IR, I recommend spending a little more and getting a proper RC transmitter & receiver.

The IR remote would only give you on/off controls, which would be a pain for driving something around. You'll want precise throttle and steering, and that's what a proper Tx/Rx will give you (not to mention you'll get much longer range than IR, for what it's worth).

Amazon has a 2-channel Tx/Rx combo available here, though I highly recommend its big brother the FS-GT3B which has 3 channels so you can do a bit more with it (also has a fancy LCD display). Unfortunately they don't have any at a reasonable price on Amazon right now (I got mine for $25 about 18 months ago).

Those just use an ipex connector yeah?
This should do it if so https://www.amazon.com/iFlight-Receiver-Antenna-Generation-Controller/dp/B06XGD445X

For 55$ nope :D cheap short antennas exist for example. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071LMRK36?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I know that's not what you were looking at but just fyi

> I'm more then likely going to total it

With that attitude I would again go with a Hubsan/Syma to start. If you really want to dive in as cheap as possible there is tons of kits on Ebay/Amazon. I started with a kit I found on Ebay, now I am slowly upgrading everything. I now wish I picked all my parts instead, but if your itching to dive in then below is a list.

Prime Shipping - Kit, Battery, Remote, Charger. Still requires soldering iron, velcro, zip ties, heatshrink, double sided tape, allen keys, and a couple minor things.

This is a little pricier but you can have it tomorrow. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Transmitter-Helicopter-Multicopter-Fixed-wing/dp/B01M0P8Q8U/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495083860&sr=1-2&keywords=rc+transmitter

You'll also want some cheap servos
https://www.amazon.com/J-Deal-Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Controls/dp/B015H5AVZG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495084159&sr=8-2&keywords=servos

And you also need an ESC, motor, prop, and battery. If you don't have a soldering iron you'll have to find an esc and motor with pre-soldered connectors.

Amazon

iFlight 150mm 2.4G Receiver Antenna Generation 4 RF113 (smaller) IPEX Port for Latest FrSky X4R-SB Receiver and Remote Controller (pack of 20pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD445X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BXl0Cb7P08X5Q

Amazon links:

Motor and ESC - Amazon

Transmitter/Receiver - Amazon

Servo - Amazon

I would recommend this radio to start, I have had it for over a year, and I’m not close to outgrowing it yet. FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uMcLzbNJZVAWH

As far as servos are concerned, you can use the super cheap blue 9 gram servos, as they are almost disposable, but I would recommend the metal gear mg90s servos. Nothing more frustrating than landing wrong and accidentally stripping a Servo.

Here are the blue servos: http://r.ebay.com/s0XKOt

And here are The mg90s: http://r.ebay.com/d8mu3D

You can use almost any Male RP-SMA antenna that claims to work with the frequencies that matter to you. This is usally means that it claims to work in the 2.4 and 5 GHz range.

The almost is due to the close proximity of the two connectors. They will not be able to accommodate antennas with larger connectors.

These small and cheap ones work, but might not give the full range.

I found this on Prime with a few extra goodies. Is this the same protocol as the standard FlySky i6? Would it would if I built, say, a FlySky compatible Whoop?

https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Transmitter-Helicopter-Multicopter-Fixed-wing/dp/B01M0P8Q8U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483988449&sr=8-3&keywords=fs-i6

So far this is what im thinking of getting
Quad kit http://www.miniquadbros.com/collections/mini-quad-kits/products/nighthawk-170-kit-for-fpv-racing

Transmitter
http://www.banggood.com/Flysky-X6B-2_4G-6CH-i-BUS-PPM-PWM-Receiver-for-AFHDS-i6s-i6-i6x-Transmitter-p-1101513.html?rmmds=search

Controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PF160IK/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4

Battery charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E8MOG1O/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YGVOB7APVMLY

Fpv Goggles
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016I9KZ74/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2L04UHZDHUT54&coliid=IZ1DGBYR0X676

Is that all i would need?

http://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY



This is the devo 7e that is modify-able correct? Does this price seem right?

The FlySky, FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z.DmDbXGHABR2 , heck of a lot cheaper and will get you started, and you can get the FS-ia6b which has I-bus for the serial connection. About $100 all together

Pro tip, get these to replace the big shark fin antenna

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Nc7DDb39NFBVB

https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Antenna-RP-SMA-Multicopter-Quadcopter/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?crid=1NHXRXHED4WBI&keywords=drone+antenna&qid=1550411329&s=gateway&sprefix=drone+ant&sr=8-26

I use these, it's extremely small and it's extremely fast.

Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/FrSky-Taranis-Channels-Transmitter-Controller/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/145-3760442-2589169?ie=UTF8&qid=1543342245&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=taranis+qx7&dpPl=1&dpID=51aJslo8BuL&ref=plSrch

Try this one. The white controller for $71 is the same controller.

https://www.amazon.com/FlySky-FS-i6-M2-2-4GHz-6-Channel-Transmitter/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501198822&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+controller+flysky

Maybe these?

motor/esc $31

2s lipo (2 pack) $16

3 wire servo $13

pinion .6mod $7

flysky FS-GT2E tx/rx $35

metal front axles $8

metal rear axles $8


Total $120

fast, reliable, 15-20min per battery

Less in price, few YouTube reviews. Need to buy the Cable to do the programming they talk about. May need to get receiver.

Spektrum DXe Transmitter

Here is the vtx im currently using on 3s.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WQZNZ54/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462084772&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=eachine+200mw&dpPl=1&dpID=31Sqdm4AjyL&ref=plSrch#

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I followed this video to a T.

• [Frame LHI 220-RX] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID4LNE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [PDB Matek XT60] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID4LNE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Motors DLFPV DX2205 2300KV] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8RYTOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Props DalProp 5045 V2] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY4H59Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [FC Naze32 Rev6] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU4SJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Camera Real ACC 600TVL] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018DW8X9Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [Receiver FrSky XM+] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5INCBH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [VTX Wolfwhoop T86P] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTNSBDX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• [ESC Racestar RS20Ax4] (https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-RS20Ax4-20A-4-in-1-Blheli_S-Opto-ESC-2-4S-Support-Oneshot42-Multishot-for-FPV-Racer-p-1068210.html?utm_source=Youtube&utm_medium=cussku&utm_campaign=5635792_1068210&utm_content=1081&p=CG24181822629201506N)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these wifi antennas. No real numbers to back them up but they seem to work and stay out of the way https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

awesome, thanks! I think I've mostly got it figured out now, and I believe I need 4 parts total...

• drone (BNF model, not PNP, so it comes with a FrSky receiver)
  
• battery (seems to not come included... whatever)
  
• video receiver (narrowed down options)
  
• transmitter (and adapter plug thingy if I go with non-FrSky?)
  
  drone:
  
  
• https://www.geekbuying.com/item/EMAX-BABYHAWK-R-Racing-Drone-BNF-with-Receiver-390291.html
  
  battery:
  
  
• https://www.ebay.com/itm/JJRC-7-4V-450MAH-35C-Lipo-Battery-JST-Plug-For-Emax-Babyhawk-FPV-Racer/122562788413
  
  video receiver options:
  
  
• 1- decent integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV100-720540-5_8G-72CH-FPV-Goggles-With-Dual-Antennas-Fan-7_4V-1000mAh-Battery-p-1182469.html
  
  
• 2 - cheaper integrated headset
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-Pro-VR007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-4_3-Inch-Video-Headset-With-3_7V-1600mAh-Battery-p-1134154.html
  
  
• 3 - receiver for cellphone plus google cardboard equivalent
  
• https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG02-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Dual-Antenna-Audio-FPV-Receiver-for-Android-Tablet-Smartphone-p-1242422.html
  
• with
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Headset-KAWOE-Virtual-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07546GT3X/
  
  
  transmitter:
  
  
• this is where I'm a little confused why FrSky is so much more expensive than 'FlySky' but whatever, I don't think I want to get into external modules so I should probably spend the $105 to $125 on a Q X7 which should be compatible out of the box, if I understand that description right
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/
  
  
• https://www.banggood.com/FrSky-ACCST-Taranis-Q-X7-2_4GHz-16CH-Transmitter-White-Black-p-1112717.html
  
  
  SO net net for drone + battery + VR + transmitter I'm looking at around $140 + $15 + $80 + $100. Ballpark $350.
  
  If it all works out I guess that's not so bad. And when I lose the drone, I'm only down $150, not all $350.

Mine is copper...really no idea if there's a difference between the 2.

Edit - I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0ZCN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SQe8ybZGW19HK

I think i've seen the rxsr before, but I was thinking of probably going with the xm plus here since the space is very limited in my build and I don't like the extra height that the cable connector adds (I'm fine with just doing a direct solder).

I don't have a lot of experience with 2 stick controllers, I found the FlySky FS-i6 for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/FlySky-FS-i6-M2-2-4GHz-6-Channel-Transmitter/dp/B00PF160IK/ref=sr_1_30?keywords=2+stick+rc+controller&qid=1568313826&sr=8-30


This is way over kill for what you need, but my quick search did not find any cheap 2 channel stick controllers. If the Vaporizr has a separate receiver, you can replace it, otherwise, if you get a different controller, you will need to get 2 small ESC's as well. That's why I recommended modding the existing controller. You MIGHT be able to find another controller that works on the same radio channel/frequency that uses the same control scheme that is physically larger, but that will involve a lot of searching and trial and error.

Is this the correct one?

Can you recommend a good fixed 4ch fixed pitch for me to get? The CP X looks cool, but I bet I would destroy it, having flowing nothing other than a s107, even after a while at the sim.

So the kits are nice and fly out of the box and are super expensive. If you're interested and not sure you want to do it I would say go and purchase a cheaper but versatile radio like this one-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IOOXZ0LWZ7WX6&colid=3JZ28VNN5WA0Y&psc=0

Once you have one you can use the online simulators or on Steam to get stick time in. Later, you can build your own. It's really not as hard as it sounds guys....you just need to solder really. Plus, WHEN you break it (you will) you will know exactly how to fix and trouble shoot. Check out this guys vids- he has a full parts list in the description. https://youtu.be/Avp8MurmeEY

I used to be a fixed wing drone pilot in the military. Some of the guys I worked with competed in the world class series quad and RC flier circuits. I say lets do it and start a FPV Tally Racing League!

Radio -> Sim -> Build -> Learn to Fly LOS w/o FPV -> buy crap entry goggles -> Go pod racin' at Tom Brown!