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Reddit mentions of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP - Preserves and Protects Leather - Great for Boots and More - 4 oz

Sentiment score: 22
Reddit mentions: 38

We found 38 Reddit mentions of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP - Preserves and Protects Leather - Great for Boots and More - 4 oz. Here are the top ones.

Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP - Preserves and Protects Leather - Great for Boots and More - 4 oz
Buying options
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Repels water better & longerRepels chemicals, manure acid, salt, concreteResists dry toy, scuffing, crackingResists mildew, mold, bacteria growthRestores & Preserves dried-out leather natually
Specs:
ColorBuckskin
Height2.25 Inches
Length2.5 Inches
Size4 Ounces
Weight0.3125 pounds
Width2.5 Inches

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Found 38 comments on Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP - Preserves and Protects Leather - Great for Boots and More - 4 oz:

u/olorwen · 40 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

u/Toxan · 27 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

I was a wildland firefighter for a few seasons, and we had to use full leather boots (any flammable/metal materials were too much of a liability when running through fire) and to take care of my stupidly expensive boots i used Obenauf's LP and it worked wonders. Made from beeswax and absorbed quite quickly it kept my leathers supple and durable. I still keep a tin of it around to massage into wear areas on my leather jackets and riding pants. Knees and elbows love this shit.

In regards to general care I wish I had more advice for you but this stuff makes leather happy, that I do know.

u/travellingmonk · 5 pointsr/CampingGear

Most new tents do come with a waterproof coating. But over the years they can lose the coating, allowing the water to "wet" through the material. There are various ways you can reapply a coating, but Camp Dry is generally the cheapest and easiest... but from reports I've seen Atsko Silicone Guard works much better and I'll give that a try once my current can of Camp Dry runs out.

For shoes... it depends on the material. Camp Dry is silicone based and uses petroleum product as a thinner; it's OK for materials like tents, but it's not great for natural materials like leather, nubuck or suede. For good leather boots, I use Obenauf's Leather Protector. For nubuck or suede, they have water-based sprays, Nikwax has one and Uggs has their own which is what my wife uses on hers. Have to be careful with leather and suede since products can damage them and/or cause discoloration.

I use Camp Dry on tents, tarps and umbrellas, but don't bother with backpacks or any other camping gear.

u/surprisinglyminty · 5 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

gone are the days of payless.

If you're walking that much, on a budget, I'd enjoy seeing how much wear and tear you'd put on a some Chippewa Boots or Chippewa Apache The vibram sole lugged or sans lugged should do wonders in regards to comfort and durability.

with the 20% off $100+ Amazon Coupon and it's a solid frugal purchase. Code SPSHOEI4 at checkout may work as well for 20% off.

Throw some sno-seal or Obenauf's and you're set for most all terrains.

u/wags_01 · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

I like Obenauf's, personally.

u/Drew_W · 4 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Don't make it too complicated.

  1. Take a brush to get rid of most of the dirt on them.
  2. Take a wet rag and rub the boots down (this should get rid of the paint stains, if not be more abrasive with the rag)
  3. (Optional, but suggested) Apply some sort of leather conditioner / protector (ex.Mink Oil Or Obenhaufs Leather Protector)
  4. Use a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser (or similar) to clean the wedge sole.

    Some of the deeper scuffs may not go away completely, but they add character to the boot.
u/NiceBootyGuurrrrlll · 4 pointsr/TheBrewery

Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.

One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!

As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.

I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.

Hope that helps!

u/JayVeeDi · 4 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

I recently got these boots two weeks ago. I have to say after a brief break-in period of a few days after treating them with Obenauf's and leather lotion they are comfy and the leather has softened well. I've compared the build and leather to my brother's Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots and they are similar enough that you should have one or the other, not both (unless you need another color boot of course). I was deciding between the lighter brown and the cordovan, the reddish brown of the latter looks great and didn't darken or alter after leather treatment.


The sole is by Vibram and I haven't had any slipping issues where I live in NorCal. Replacement of the sole after wear shouldn't be too hard for a cobbler and I plan on caring for these boots for a lifetime.

Sizing wise, I sized a whole size down. I usually wear a 9.5D with my Nike Free Run 2, so I went down to 8.5D. Perfect fit.

I say go for it and pull the trigger, the 30% discount makes the boots worth to try out and return if not satisfied.

If I'm able to ill post pics of them.

EDIT: Had work, took pics before leaving.

Here you go.

u/allforthekarma · 3 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

Use this occasionally
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003SKCARK

Definitely a little darker right after use- but they lighten back up

u/YourGFsFave · 3 pointsr/snowboarding

This stuff works better than snoseal. It's breathable, body heat melts it into the gloves, smells good, and darkens the leather a few shades. Highly recommend it for kincos.

u/CunningRunt · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

u/Dioreus · 2 pointsr/DIY

I really don't have a preference. I use Black rock leather, but a lot of fashion leather shoe guys like Obenauf's LP or venetian shoe cream

u/ancientmadder · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I recommend either not treating them or maybe giving it a quick layer of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP.

u/manlyJulip · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

My bad on the low quality image. Loving my new J. Crew Knit Sweater in dark blue

Waiting for:

Tan Wolverine 1000 miles

Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP

Saddleback ID wallet

u/Innerpiece · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

You may want to consider Obenauf's LP in that case

u/typographic · 2 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

LL Bean Boots - (signature version, if you like canvas). Go down a full size for medium-weight socks, size and a half for wool socks, which you should have at least three pairs of. Darn Tough has a no bullshit lifetime warranty, so feel comfortable buying their stuff. Weatherproof a pair of Thorogoods if bean boots aren't your bag. Here's a plain toe version.

A vintage navy peacoat is always a safe and timeless option.

Keep an eye out for merino wool beanies, softer than a baby's ass.

When all else fails, an insulated thermos and tea's a good thing to have.

u/tangbang · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Just curious, but why did you go with Otter Wax over something like Sno Seal or Obenauf's?

u/ARedHouseOverYonder · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

When people say they used Obenauf's is THIS what you mean? How many pairs of boots can I handle with 4 oz?

u/Nick2632 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I'm not sure about lightening the color, as most conditioners that you apply to boots will slightly darken the leather, at least temporarily.

If you'd like to give them a bit of protection, you may want to try something like this after cleaning off any dirt with a brush, rag, or whatever. That should help the suppleness of the leather and offer a slight bit of weather protection.

u/JESUSgotNAIL3D · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Hey guys, this is a simple question and I couldn't find the answer anywhere even after searching.

I just got a pair of Johnston & Murphy dark brown oxfords and they are made out of sheepskin leather (went in for AE's last minute and Nordstrom store was out). Can I use my usual boot leather conditioner/protector (listed here) on these, combined with a damp rag wipe when necessary?

I was reading around and the only info I could find was on this site stating "To protect your sheepskin from cracking or drying out, a leather conditioner specifically for sheepskin is essential." Is this true? I would rather not have to go back to the store and buy their shoe cream if I don't have to. Or if anyone knows of an alternative on Amazon that would be cool.

Thanks!!!

u/gonzolahst · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Same here, I got some Timberland lightweight boots and the toe separated after two months of wearing them to work. On the other hand, my Pros are holding up great after three years of winter abuse. Just don't forget to give them a rub down, I recommend this stuff.

u/stimilon · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Thanks! Couple questions:

When you say you wipe off salt stains with vinegar you mean applying standard cooking vinegar to a shoe rag and rubbing around to try to get the salt stain out?

And are these the products you use: Obenauf's Leather Oil during normal times and then apply their heavy duty leather protector for the rough weather?

u/farahad · 1 pointr/geologycareers

Shoes:

  1. Lowa / I went with their Renegade model, but depending on your local climate, something else might make more sense.

  2. I gave Vasque shoes two tries, both pairs split at the seams on the inside near the front of the foot. Total crap.

  3. I think Merrell is ~okay. I haven't tried higher-end models. Their cheaper models usually last me one field season, tops, but they for sure don't break like the Vasques do.

  4. If you're getting good shoes, make sure to treat them well, too. This wax worked well on my leather, and I treated with silicone afterwards.

    You'll have to keep re-treating, and watch out for issues like gumboot (clogged leather pores). I've also read that treating with liquid oil like mink instead of wax can weaken the leather by hydrating it and making it, yes, more supple -- but also softer.

    Pants:

    Ditch jeans. KUHL makes the best field pants I've tried. They're more durable, lighter, and are generally very good. Go to an REI to see how different versions fit. KUHL makes jeans and similar pants, too, but their lighter field pants are much better in most conditions.

    Socks...too many options, none of them stood out for me. As long as you have enough pairs of thick hiking socks and can cycle through clean pairs every day or so, you should be fine. Synthetic socks typically dry faster than wool. That's about the only major / consistent difference in my experience.
u/Boo-_-Berry · 1 pointr/lightsabers

If its leather then any sort of leather conditioner should age it nicely. One of the best ones to use is Obenauf's Leather Preserve. It darkens up the leather and seals it real well.

u/jollylar · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

Well these don't take to snow/rain too well. I recommend to get some obenauf's LP to somewhat waterproof it. It won't make it a rain boot but it will make it water resistant.

Clean off salt stains on the thing and you should be fine for light snow and small amounts of rain. Of course, let it dry if you were soaking in some rain/snow. Applying the obenauf's also darkens the leather to make it look more like a darker version beeswax on the desert boot (which is the crepe sole with a slightly darker leather , see here for comparison).

The leather will lighten up over time after applying obenauf and I actually have pictures here of only the after shots with about 3 months of wear after obenaufs LP (I also applied obenauf's oil though so it is actually darker than it should be).

u/koldfusion47 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

You can treat anything but suede, nubuck, and rough out leathers with Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative after its been cleaned. It should help preserve your boots.
*formatting

u/motelirrelevant · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

Ok I was really debating between Obenauf's or sno seal, but I think you convinced me about Obernauf. But which Obenauf's should I use the heavy duty lp http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-4oz-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-1&keywords=Obenauf%27s

The boot preservative
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-2&keywords=Obenauf%27s

Or the silicone water shield
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Silicone-Water-Shield-Environmentally/dp/B002UBLSO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-6&keywords=Obenauf%27s

Or maybe a combination of the heavy duty lp and the silicone water shield? I don't want to spend more money then necessary but before I take my boots out into the world I want to make sure they're properly prepared for the elements. Oh and thanks for the help guys! All of this is very informative and helpful.

u/TortureSteak · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

if I can't use it everyday without wearing it out, then I don't consider it BIFL... sure, they'll need to be resoled eventually, but that's any pair of boots. If you're worried about the leather drying out, then this is the stuff to use: http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-4oz-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK

Smoke jumpers use it to protect their boots from heat and caustic ash... they still have to buy a $400 pair of boots every season, but for me it has kept my Danners with 100s of miles on them feeling soft and looking like new

u/basilis120 · 1 pointr/Axecraft

Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.

For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.

u/Nilots · 1 pointr/Frugal

Totally, as long as its boot specific oil it should work fine. The most highly regarded brand (and what I personally use) is Obenaufs, it is a little more expensive but that tub should last about a year or so.

It's important to get the dirt off before oiling, some folks use Saddle Soap or similar to strip all the dirt/chemicals off first. Dirt and especially harsh chemicals can dry out and damage the leather if left on for extended periods. Personally, my boots are usually just dirty (no chemicals) so I give mine a good scrub with water, let em dry overnight, then use the oil on em. It's important to spend some time rubbing the oil in so that it really soaks in instead of just sitting on the surface. Some folks leave their boots in the sun for awhile to warm them up to aid absorption.

Anyway, I usually once every 2-3 weeks or whenever the leather seems dry (depends on the environment). You can over-oil boots, however, so I wouldn't do it more often than that myself.

u/Apoptosis0 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

To waterproof your boots you can use:

SNO-SEAL

Obenauf HD/LP

They will both darken your both considerably

u/ColPaint · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.

Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).

Pants
I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?

Hats
I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.

Socks
I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.

Boots
I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).

Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.

Canteen
COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.

Sunscreen
Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.

Sunglasses
Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.

Other
Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.

I may add more if I can think of anything else.

EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..

u/smallbatchb · 1 pointr/knives

Basic mineral oil or beeswax or a combo.

You can gently melt down some beeswax IN mineral oil and then rub it all in, let it dry, and then wipe off excess.

Even simpler is to get some Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner at Lowes or Home Depot. It is just beeswax and mineral oil pre-mixed. It works best if gently heated or if you apply it to your handle and then use a hair dryer to gently heat the handle. That way the wax and oil get deep down in the leather.

You could also use Obenauf's to condition and protect.

u/nguye205 · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I just bought my very first pair of Timberland Original Yellow boots. I want to protect them while keeping the same soft and matte texture/look of the boots. My plan is to put mink oil or Obenauf's Heavy Duty Beeswax on the boots and brush them with a soft brush to make it soft and matte.

The guy in this video used mink oil and brushed them off using a soft brush to restore the original look and feel of the boots.

I know mink oil and beeswax will darken the leather. I don't mind that at all. How to protect my first pair of Timberland?

u/CreepShowGirl666 · 0 pointsr/Leathercraft

Cleaner

Rejuvenator

Conditioner

I use these on my handmade boots to keep them in good condition.

Also, watch some youtube videos.