Reddit mentions: The best speaker repair products

Oh I'm very sorry to hear that. Don't be frustrated it can be overwhelming at first but the reward after completing it is worth it ^^. If you have a smartphone you can still watch youtube videos of people assembling your motherboard's model. There should be plenty.

When you press the power button on your case, you should at least see the processor fan spin for a while, that should be an indicator of power going through your motherboard. After a few seconds if the motherboard doesn't detect a vital component such as RAM for example, or something is wrong they often can emit one or more beeping sounds to indicate an error state. If your case came with a speaker you can try connecting it for troubleshooting. Consult your case and motherboard manual on how to connect it.
If the CPU fan doesn't spin at all and no lights turn on whatsoever on the motherboard, considering that you say the PSU works, I believe it could be a cable connection issue or that your motherboard is fried.
To rule out a connection issue double check that the motherboard is connected to the PSU via the big 24 pin ATX power connector and two CPU power atx connectors (2 x 4 pins). Then make sure the cable from the CPU cooler is correctly connected to it's socket on the motherboard, it usually has a label saying "CPU_FAN" or something similar. Make sure you haven't connected it to a system fan connector (these are for internal case fans, most mobos have them as well and they use the same connector type that the CPU fan uses).
Your case probably came with all these connectors make sure you're connecting the one that says "power SW" corerctly into the right socket of your motherboard, same with the rest. Double check the polarity of the cable (positive cable goes with the positive pin in the mobo, while it can sometimes work otherwise make sure you're getting them in their right position). I suspect this is most likely the reason why you're not getting power to your mobo. Consult your "interal connectors" section of the motherboard's manual.

Lasaatly, there's also a chance that your motherboard came dead or broken and/or that you accidentally gave it an electrostatic discharge while handling it and fried it. Make sure you've grounded yourself before touching electronic components by touching any metal bit of the PC case once in a while and that you're not building the PC standing on a carpet. If this is the case you'll need to RMA it.

Best of luck! If you want to, you can use pcpartpicker to tell me your parts to see if I can help you further. I'm nowhere near an expert on the matter but maybe we can work something out. Also this subreddit is extremely friendly, don't hesitate to submit a post and get more knowledgeable users than me give you advise too :)

Here is a link to an AR18 refoam kit. There are many out there as the woofers were used on many different AR models, including your bookshelves there.

The instructions, glue, and everything else needed come with the kit. There are even video's you can watch on YouTube for refoming old Acoustic Research speakers. The long and short of it is, get an Exacto knife or razor blade, cut out the old surround. Clear out all the leftover gunk on the basket. Then carefully glue in the new surround. Some people mount the surround in backwards (the surround going in rather than out), but I think the out looks better and likely is better, although I have no way to prove this. It's a pretty simple job really and something you can certainly do yourself.

The tweeter on those is not the best, but they are a great great start. They will certainly give you that warmer hi-fi sound.

Congrats on a great start. That Thorens and Marantz should last awhile. What model Thorens and Marantz?

Speaker enclosures are generally designed around the specs of specific drivers. Replacing the drivers will likely sound OK, but not great. Changing the crossovers would also likely not be worth the money or effort. That said, replacing the passive components on the crossovers may be.

I'd order a handful of capacitors and resistors and simply replace the surround using a rebuild kit. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the turnout, but don't expect to drop $50 drivers in your cabinets and hear a big improvement. Even if you went with something modest like these you're still spending more than twice as much as the surrounds and X-over components alone. If you're into tinkering with your sound, you could also invest in a Digital Signal Processor and skip the need for new crossovers.

Personally I'd buy the parts to rebuild them, spend the rest on a good amp and save for better speakers down the road. ~$30 in parts leaves you $170 towards an amp. A buddy of mine has one of these running the 2.1 in his living room and one of these for his turntable. They both sound surprisingly good, especially for the cost.

Firstly, overlooked but super useful to buy is a BIOS speaker (The beep made when a PC turns on normally) Example. Reason I say this is that it if there are any issues, the PC will beep and normally you can diagnose it from this.

​

So this could be a Power/User/BIOS/GPU/CPU/RAM/Peripheral issue (I guess I could have said it might be anything xD).

Below I'll go through how to diagnose each issue from easy to hard.

​

Peripheral:

Unplug everything other than the keyboard, power and display and press the power button and wait. Some PCs can take up to 30s to do DRAM training. If your IO sheild isn't properly seated, it might push the usb/HDMI ports slightly out so ensure there isn't a gap between the motherboard and IO plate. If this doesn't work or the fans don't spin, continue to the next section.

​

User:

If you're using a GPU, ensure the display cable is plugged into the GPU and not into any motherboard HDMI/DVI/VGA port. If it is plugged into the GPU card and not into the motherboard and you didn't get an image but your motherboard does have HDMI/DVI/VGA, try plugging in the display cable temerorally into this port and powering on. If you do get a display, then you need to change your BIOS settings to use the external GPU as the display output. If the motherboard doesn't have a diplay output or nothing is displayed when you power on the device, continue to the next part.

​

Power:

Reseat (take it out and put it back in) the 24 Pin and 4/8 pin power cable from the PSU into the motherboard then reseat the 6/8 pin in the GPU and try and power on the device. If this doesn't work, unplug any HDD, SSD or CD/DVD drives and try again.

​

RAM:

If you have a BIOS speaker and it was a RAM issue, typically it would be short beeping in either groups 1 to 3 but this changes between manufacture. So for Asus, 1 long and 2 short would be faulty RAM.

If you don't have a speaker, then we're flying blind. If you're fans are spinning, check your motherboard manual to ensure that the RAM is in the correct slots. Typically A1 and A3 with A1 starting from the right. So RAM slots would be [CPU] [] [X] [] [X].

Try reseating the RAM (take it out and put it back in) and powering on the device. Again, wait 30 seconds incase of DRAM training.

If the fans still spin but nothing happens, remove the all of the RAM and insert one into slot A1 and try powering on again. If this fails, try the other stick in A1. If the PC powers on, then you might have a DOA RAM stick. If this still doesn't power on, try the next section.

​

BIOS:

The BIOS speaker wouldn't beep (single beep means POST sucessfull). Sometimes BIOS settings get in the way. Try clearing the CMOS by pressing reset CMOS or jumping the CMOS clear pins. This will be in your manual so look it up there. Try powering on the PC again. If this works, you might need to reconfigure some settings in the BIOS.

​

GPU:

With a BIOS speaker, this typically would 1 long and two 2 beeps. Other than it being a DOA card with no other GPU to swap out, you could try reseating the Card and power cable. Try each display port on the card as I know some GPUs perfer to output to VGA/DVI-A before HDMI. If you have to hand, try another HDMI/VGA cable.

​

CPU:

If I was you, I wouldn't try this but again, reseating the CPU might solve this. But if you're hear asking questions, return the PC (unless you've built it), don't mess with this as the pins on the motherboard can easily be damadged. If you built this, check to see if you've bent any pins on the motherboard socket when you installed the CPU.

​

I'm out of ideas but if you do get it working, I'd love to know what caused it.

OK, you may have very much fried your Motherboard. HOW did you plug the extra PCIe power plug into the CPU plug? They are physically incompatible and should NOT be plugged into each other as they are polarized specifically for their purposes. To some extent you could have also fried your CPU if you did manage to plug a PCIe plug into the CPU power slot by providing 12 volt to a 3.3volt or 5 volt line etc etc.


The motherboard LED blinking yellow doesn't sound good at all. Check the text nearest the blinking LED, it should pertain to a specific component on the motherboard like the DRAM, CPU, PCIE, Chipset etc. If its the CPU, you may have a problem...

If the motherboard didn't come with it, get a motherboard speaker:

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

Plug it into your motherboard and listen to the beep codes. Compare it to the chart here:

https://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm

Wish you the best of luck!

off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.

Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20

Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00

Welcome to the master race brother! I've built a plethora of computers in my day here are some tips I have. Sorry for formatting I'm on mobile.

1. Ground yourself. Get one of these bad boys and connect it to your case when you build.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Grounding-Alligator-RTK-002-Detachable/dp/B004N8ZQKY
   
   
   
2. Build on a table with your shoes on.
   
   
3. Get a bios post speaker. It will beep out an error code if anything goes wrong so you know what to fix.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW
   
   
4. For the tools all you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of needlenose plyers.
   
   
5. When you are all built and ready make sure you keep a bootable USB (Linux preferred but windows will do) as a failsafe in case you brick the OS. Make sure it's labeled accordingly.
   
   
6. If you buy your storage brand new (SSD, hard drive, etc) it might not have a partitioning table setup so the OS installer might not detect it. If you need help setting this up just reply and I'll help you.
   
   
7. Have fun!

You've based your specs on one brand, which is kind of weird. Normally I'd draft a document so that the specs are compliant to the generic spec (a CAT6 capable jack) as opposed to the vendor specific part (a Gigaspeed X10D part).

I'm OK with Commscope. I don't have any huge complaints about them, and I'm sure their kit is fine. That being said, I'm a huge fan of Leviton and Panduit, depending on the need. For generic cable installations, Leviton cable has never let me down and it's pretty easy to work with.

> Is there anything we can do to mitigate this? Should we just plug a RJ-45 tip into each unused far end jack to reduce how much salt water air is reaching it?

You can buy specific dust covers that should work for the same purpose: https://www.amazon.com/RJ45-JACK-SNAP-COVER-INSIDE/dp/B001S52NX8

Cleaning out the port is good. But still short sighted.

If you really want to treat your device well and keep it in best condition. Then you can buy plugs for your phone.

(Also for pixel 3 and up... Make sure to use wireless charging! Reduces wear and year but 3x)

Let me go check...

4.7 out of 5.0 with 270+ reviews. https://www.amazon.com/innoGadgets-Smartphone-MacBook-Protection-Headphone/dp/B07KQDDCX2#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

I might have to buy one!

P.s. also make sure to put your phone on your pocket with the plug on the top so pocket long doesn't get in.

Here's a more contextualized picture. I also took a picture with measuring tape and it looks like they might be closer to 6 inches. Would this be the best refoam kit for me, or perhaps something cheaper like this?

Thanks.

I also recommend people to get a button speaker. They are pretty inexpensive and offer a lot more troubleshooting support. Sad that most board manufactures do not supply them anymore.

There is usually pin outs for a speaker somewhere and it is just that extra level of convenience when building a PC. Motherboard manuals will have a list of Beep Codes you can reference if things go wrong in addition to the other steps listed.

Best part is that you can use this on other PCs you might build and can later store it away so the beeps don't annoy you or just keep it connected if you like.

It needs to be "refoamed". The woofer's surround needs to be replaced.

A friend of mine did this a few months ago, for the same unit. I think it was pretty easy.

Although you might be able to find something cheaper, this comes up for googling "klipsch promedia 2.1 sub refoam"

http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Speaker-Repair-Replacement-FSK-6-5/dp/B009DNMR8I

I just re-foamed a pair of Advent Legacy speakers for a friend and it was pretty easy. I bought this kit and I didn't have any issues.

Well, I don't have a speaker in my case either, so I got one of these to plug in when I need one, it's a good investment, or pull one out of a salvage case.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W4M0DW/

That being said, (and you likely tried one or more of these) check connections, make sure only the minimal things are plugged in, and reset the CMOS.


But, having a post code would really help.

It's been over a year, but any generic micro usb silicon plugs will work - £1.03 for 25 plugs is virtually free (my cat likes to eat them when I'm not looking):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Black-Plastic-Cover-Micro/dp/B00JVJ5DDA

It probably didn't come with one installed, but it may have shipped with one. If not, look for something like this at a local electronics shop. Sometimes you can score one for free as many places have spares from builds that don't need them (such as when the motherboard includes extra).

Maybe, but a motherboard speaker should help. The board probably has some diagnostics built in, and will beep with different patterns to indicate different problems. You can't hear it unless you have the speaker connected though.

This is a good troubleshooting thread to run through as well:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

Do you have a speaker attached to the diagnostic speaker pins on the board? If you do you'll hear one beep to indicate successful POST. Worth getting one for situations like this.

Also I can say that I used MDF to make the frame.

This was the fabric I used and I liked it a lot:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8PCU7I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this was the glue I used to secure it to the frames:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8A9YTO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally here is a link to a sort-of tutorial I made. Hope this helps.

https://imgur.com/gallery/fopSrBo

It doesn't come with a speaker. You can get something like this to plug in to hear those glorious BIOS beeps.

There's no such thing as a good one, they're just super-cheap beep speakers and are all pretty much exactly the same.

They look like this and attach to the same motherboard header as your power buttons, reset switch etc.

If by blown you mean the surrounds are ripped / rotted, then you might have a third option for less the $30:

http://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-Speaker-Repair-FSK-10AR/dp/B009DNK3OS

I have never done this sort of repair myself, but the reviews seem positive.

> Do i use a standard mic? It will only work near a hub. So how do i get coverage? I guess making listing satellites? But even with a Raspberry and that mic shield this seems expensive.

I use the ReSpeaker 2-Mics Pi hat.

I have 1 "Master" Pi in the Office and everywhere else I use a Rasperry Pi Zero with the same hat. You can connect passive speaker to those Hats. Soundquality is accaptable.

The Satelite are also in a 3D printed Housing so the look nice.

did you try unseating the RAM?

It looks like you need to invest in a motherboard speaker. Luckily they're cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

No... your case has nothing to do with your MoBo beep best. It all depends on if your MoBo has a built in speaker or not... If it doesn't you'll need to get one http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

I have no idea. But I am interested to learn this too! Looking at the contacts on it, it seems like connecting it up might be tricky, and I'm not seeing any solid wattage specs for it either...but you don't have much to lose if you end up blowing it.

Alternatively, as I'm sure you know, these little PC internal speakers would be easier to work with.

It might be good to run out and buy one locally, or get one quickly from Amazon.

PC Internal Mini Onboard Speaker

You don't need one but it's definitely handy if something happens. Very rarely will something not go right and you get a video output.

POST speaker

Are there any troubleshooting LEDs or a POST code on your motherboard that might help narrow down the issue? If not, I'd buy a motherboard speaker to get some beep codes you can look up.

Tested it with the old PSU with all combinations of RAM and video cards and still no go. I'm going to have to find something cheap just to test it out, I don't want to drop $200 bucks on a chip unless I'm really sure it's the problem. I'm getting this little doodad on Tuesday and I'm hoping it'll give me some clues before I go and get a CPU. It sucks that I've turned what should've been one night project into two weeks without my tower, but if I've learned anything it's that impatience breaks things and costs money. Thanks for your help again, I will let you know if I ever do get this figured out.

You fan get one from amazon for a couple dollars/quid

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

The header caps are an added feature. Better to leave it on than taking it off. They prevent dust from getting into the connectors and prevent oxidation.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Video-Graphics-Serial-Protector/dp/B00W8YQETM

Go from there.

If your controller has a separate plastic piece around the xbox button it is not a rev 3. If the body of the controller is all one piece around the xbox button then it is a rev 3.

rev 1/2 looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Controller-Xbox-One-Console/dp/B06XRLQF8B/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1502160621&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=xbox+one+controller&psc=1

rev 3 is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Black/dp/B01LPZM7VI/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1502160671&sr=1-4&keywords=xbox%2Bone%2Bcontroller&th=1

Did anything like this come with the mobo? Check all the packaging.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002W4M0DW?pc_redir=1411313455&robot_redir=1


Way to many things it could be without narrowing it down a bit more.

Seriously OP, just follow this guide. It's a foolproof way to troubleshoot PCs that won't boot after building. No, don't be lazy, go through all the steps diligently.

Personally, I'd invest in a mobo speaker, it makes troubleshooting a breeze.

Yeah. Modern board usually have at least a few simple LED to a full error code display. You can rip the speaker off the old case if you really want it, or buy a new one like this.

Also do you think something like this would be of use?
https://www.amazon.com/RING-6-5BZ-Speaker-Recess-MOUNTING-SPACER/dp/B00K5Q9D7U

They mean a speaker like this.

it's a special speaker header that plugs into a socket on the motherboard - your case may have one.

If not, something like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

It connects to the chasis intrusion/speaker header next to the SATA ports.

After cleaning if suggest getting something like these plugs. It's kind of a pain to keep track of them when charging but not having to worry about the port getting to dirty to charge is nice. There are similar / cheaper alternatives on eBay as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4NMA8T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fg-OBbX6XQ8MF

My newer Gigabyte needed the cheepo mobo speaker transplanted from my asus to give me the comfort beep. It isn't the same "BOOONG!!" from my old macs but after is boots OSX it doesn't really matter.

This is basically what I have: http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

If it happens again you may have something else going on, make sure that you installed the risers for your motherboard if your case needs them. It could be shorting against the case. Also, you should have a little speaker thing if not they are usually available at a local PC shop. Use that to check for post codes.

Hopefully it was just a loose cable and you don't need to worry about it, but if it does come back you have some next steps.

If you have no idea what you're doing replacing the foam might be a better idea than changing the woofers. This was the second result when I googled your speaker's reference, so, you're not alone.

Materials:

• Arduino Uno (https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compliant/dp/B01EWOE0UU)
  
• Audio shield (https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Wave-Shield-Arduino-Kit/dp/B00IQXZN9Q)
  
• SD card with sound effects pre-loaded on it (https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-microSDHC-Memory-SDC4-8GBET/dp/B00200K1TS)
  
• Momentary switch / Pushbutton (https://www.amazon.com/Yohii-Momentary-Tactile-Breadboard-Friendly/dp/B07FGGFS2H)
  
• Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/CQRobot-JST-PH2-0-interface-Electronic-Projects/dp/B0738NLFTG)
  
• 4 lights (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=electronic+led)
  
• Wires (20-24 gauge) (https://www.amazon.com/slp/arduino-wire/d3d8ex72qdmw5mu)
  
  Links provided for the sake of example.
  
  The actual wiring and coding is pretty trivial. Also, you can do it without the audio shield but the shield simplifies things significantly.

If you want a speaker to put in the case you can get one on Amazon. Search for bios or motherboard speaker. Speaker

I would imagine with shipping and waiting times you're going to better off getting a new speaker with a new warranty.

Also there is this, but personally I would just replace it. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Speaker-Foam-Surround-Repair/dp/B00CTUK34W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491158318&sr=8-2&keywords=3%22+Speaker+repair

The regular speakers/headphones are not useful here. You will need a specific speaker like this.

I meant a speaker like this http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW. I forgot to change the PC part picker but I got a different case, if that matters

Here is one on Amazon, it's usually called a "PC beep speaker". Standard in every build I do, permanently - you may have problems later on as well, plus if you're overclocking or something it's nice to hear that "beep!" when it POSTs.

The speaker will emit a sort of morse code type message which will tell you what's wrong - like "short beep, long beep, short beep" for example. The beeps vary depending on some things, so check your motherboard manual to see what they mean. Some motherboards now have a little LCD display on them displaying a code, and some actually output a spoken message through the onboard audio.

Everything looks like its connected properly. I dont think the power supply is bad, it could be the motherboard but its always hard to tell.

Make sure nothing metal is near or underneath the motherboard at all. You could purchase a mobo speaker to narrow down the issue. It wont give any beeps unless you have one installed.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

Unfortunately external speakers won't do anything for you. When you buy your motherboard, most of them will come with one of these. It'll give you some audible beep codes that you can troubleshooting via your motherboard manual.

So without that you kinda have to blindly start taking parts out and see what the defective part is making your pc not being able to post.

Reseating / removing your memory, make sure everything is securely connected at both ends, remove your GPU and so on...

It's pretty odd that it just stopped working out of the blue though especially if you aren't aggressively overclocking. I'd put my money on your power supply dying. Do you have another one that you can test?

I looked up the manual for the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P (your motherboard), and you need to install a speaker for your motherboard in order to hear beep codes (see page 25). You do not have an on-board speaker built in. You can get one on amazon for 5$.

http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

Check your mobo manual first. Make sure it has connections for one, almost all do, but I think some newer one have switched to onboard diagnostic LEDs instead of speakers.

You can get them for about $6 if you really want one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W4M0DW/

It often comes with the case, but it's often missing too.

Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

And to anyone still trying to use "but it gets grass in your USB port" as an excuse - Google "micro USB dust". You can get 25 plugs for $2.

I don't think anything is wrong with your parts. When you test your build before mounting it, place the motherboard on top of the box it came in. Then install the cpu, then the ram, then the gpu.

Plug in the 24pin power connector as well as the 8pin ATX power which is usually located top left of the motherboard and lastly plug in the gpu power. Most common mistake is people don't have that 8pin external power plugged in.

If you have everything installed and those 3 power cables plugged in and it still doesn't boot, unlpug and remove the gpu and plug your display cable directly into the motherboard - this is your 'on board' graphics and every motherboard will have some form of display port, VGA, DVI, HDMI etc.

If after that it STILL doesn't work, try get a speaker you can plug into the motherboard http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW - it'll tell you what's going on.

If you'd like, take a picture of the test build once everything is plugged in so i can see you have everything in correctly.

>Spigen Neo Hybrid NC

https://smile.amazon.com/innoGadgets-Smartphone-MacBook-Protection-Headphone/dp/B07KQDDCX2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+c+plug&qid=1565672855&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Do you have a motherboard speakers installed?

This is waht the speaker looks like

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

Just google post speaker if that doesn't suit your fancy.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW here

Is there a speaker connected to the motherboard? I had to get this when I built my computer since my case doesn't have a speaker.

Or RJ45 dust cover plugs.

http://www.amazon.com/RJ45-JACK-SNAP-IN-COVER-INSIDE/dp/B001S52NX8

Always a possibility. Less likely but I can only go off of your description. If you have another computer available I would try and borrow it's motherboard speaker. Plug it into your system if it doesn't already have one and listen to the beep code. This will tell you more information when it's trying to start up.

http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002W4M0DW?pc_redir=1398174028&robot_redir=1

You may be needing one of these

I'm not the OP, but these are what I use, cheap and effective...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQDDCX2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy a mobo speaker for 50 cents from amazon or eBay. http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411882712&sr=8-1&keywords=mobo+speaker

You seriously won't regret it for troubleshooting any errors you may have in the future.

That being said if you are never going to get one for whatever reason.

Try reseating the RAM to start with.

Double check your mobo was not manufactured before the CPU (if it was you may need to update the BIOS) [lots of guides on how to do this already]

Try different display ports (HDMI, VGA, etc.)

Perhaps you could get a case speaker and listen for a BIOS error code? Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW.

I guess you need to update the BIOS to a newer version. <br />

>*AMD Ryzen 1xxx series CPUs are able to boot up with all BIOS versions. As to AMD Ryzen 2xxx series CPUs, please update the BIOS to the same as list or later version.

https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/AB350M%20Pro4/index.asp#CPU

Try to find out, which BIOS version comes with the board revision 1.01

I bet it is not ryzen 2000 ready yet.

P.S. Sorry, didn't see the sticker on the package, it is ready as it says.

But the case speaker is obviously not connected. With this small speaker it would give you some beeping sounds with which you could diagnose whats failing.
http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/AB350M%20Pro4.pdf < Site 29 shows casespeaker connection which is not connected on your picture.

P.P.S. This is a case speaker: https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

There are cheap USB C port plugs available, if you are so inclined.

Edit:

Quick Amazon search result: innoGadgets 10x Anti Dust Plugs for Smartphone, .. Silicone Dust Plug - Black

I searched for "mikro usb stöpsel" and it spat out these glorious motherfuckers.

Shipping will take weeks, though, and some dudes in the reviews are saying that they probably contain heavy metals because they're soft PVC and black but, uh, I'm trying to ignore that.

All the motherboards have an internal speaker connector. If it doesn't have an internal speaker then you just have to connect one of these. So what's your motherboard?

The cmos beep/post is important as it would tell the code so you can figure out what is wrong (in case that your mobo is not dead and bios still working).

Do you see any HDD led activity after powering on? Did you try with a different monitor?

...you just have to make this hard on us, don't you?? lol

Any spare cases with speakers laying around?
(you could 'borrow' it from the other case, or just sit the other computer/case close enough so the cord reaches your speaker headers).

local computer shop?
they may have a PC Speaker that is just the PC Speaker & header to connect to your motherboard.
(I know I have one similar to this myself that I use in these situations)

Have a multimeter?
I'm not sure what the exact readouts should be, but they should fluctuate when the beeping is happening.

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

Connects to the motherboard on a special "4 pin speaker" header. Some motherboards will beep an error code to tell you what the problem is.

it's a mobo speaker, used for trouble shooting.
here

It's a no speaker thing. If the main board didn't come with one, and the case didn't come with one, you could always buy one, but the machine will run just fine with out it, unless it hits an error during post, then you won't get the post code.

I would suggest maybe getting some micro USB cover plugs. I bought a bag and started giving them out after this happened to someone I knew. Same mod too but it had been thrown around inside a car during an accident. They put new batteries in and it happened a week or two later IIRC.

Do you have a motherboard speaker plugged in? It should be right beside the MOBO connectors for the front power switch? (I think your board may have came with a speaker)

Sometimes, a board experiencing issues will put out a series of beeps through this little speaker, and the number of beeps points towards the issue.

Beyond that, I think you would need extra RAM or CPU to test if the board is bad (Or an extra MoBo).

Diagnosis will be easier if you connect one of these.

If there are no beeps when the memory is out of place the motherboard is likely dead.

The refoam kits normally come in 2 types. Cut and no Cut.

The cut method removes the Dust cone and uses paper shims to center the VC.

The no-cut method uses a 30Hz sine wave to center the VC.

Recommend the no-cut method.

https://www.simplyspeakers.com/cerwin-vega-speaker-foam-edge-repair-kit-fsk-10ar.html

https://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-Speaker-Repair-FSK-10AR/dp/B009DNK3OS

Its not the good old speakers, but a little thing inside the pc, dont know of anything else on the pc that would do a beeping sound, they look like these https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW and they are usually connected to the lower right part of the mobo, shut down the pc before removing the side panel and use anti static wrist/ground yourself by touching the PSU.

If there is no speaker try turning it on and try hearing where it comes from exactly.

Does it make any beeps? If not, did you plug the case speaker in?

In case you're new to this, look at page 8 of the manual. Manual .pdf here. Number 15 at the bottom right of the motherboard on page 8.

Motherboards either use a numerical display or give beeps for error codes. This particular one uses beeps. In order to hear them, you need to plug in a case speaker to the motherboard. A little thing like this. I can't tell if your case comes with one or not. You really need one of those to diagnose the problem, if you don't have it installed yet.

It's kind of like morse code. It will give a set of long and/or short beeps. By counting how many long, how many short in each set you can find the corresponding error. Though your motherboard manual doesn't list them as far as I can tell. Once we know what error code it's giving we can figure it out though. They're pretty standard.

Edit: Here is a list of error codes from ASRock. This is probably the list you'd use.

no video signal is usually bad/incompatible ram sticks.

can't you just buy a small piezo speaker to hook it up to your motherboard and hear the beep code?

http://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450171034&sr=8-3&keywords=motherboard+speaker

$5 delivered to your door, I've seen then as cheap as $2 on amazon.

I find it odd that after months you haven't tried to see where exactly the POST fails, or at least, you never mention anything that might suggest it on the video.

Connect the speaker to your mobo, turn on computer, wait to hear beeps, look online beep codes for your mobo manufacturer.

get one of those, PC Internal Mini Onboard Speaker on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/PC-Internal-Mini-Onboard-Speaker/dp/B002W4M0DW

​

Then listen for the beep codes:

One short beep = VGA Detected, Quick boot set to disabled, No keyboard

One continious beep followed by two short beeps then pause (repeated) = No memory

One continuous beep followed by three short betps = No VGA Detected

One continuous beep folowed by 4 short beeeps =Hardware Component failure.