Reddit mentions: The best weather stripping

http://inspectapedia.com/sickhouse/asbestoslookC.htm

After seeing the posts from /u/mtexcursioner and /u/angrytaxman I felt like a visual aid might help you.

If there is a remote possibility that this is vermiculite with asbestos then I second/third the recommendation that you move ASAP and let the landlord know the reason. They are responsible for providing a place that is safe for occupation. Asbestos insulation is not safe. They have a responsibility to abate which will be costly to them but you will probably be able to break your lease with no penalty if this is asbestos since they have more than likely already violated by leasing a property that is not safe for habitation. Check your state laws to be sure.

Now for further information.

After looking at your pictures I would also like to add (I'm a landlord and a geophysicist) that the material doesn't look like vermiculite to me. Unfortunately I would need to see more detailed photos to be sure and that is why I have supplied the link. Don't go up and take any more photos. Ask your landlord what he used to insulate the house. There are plenty of photos and information in that link to allow you to use what you have already seen to help decide a course of action.

Also remember that it is possible that the photos show cellulose and that the cellulose covers original vermiculite. Only a good home inspection will reveal this. I don't recommend that anyone do this themselves. The landlord should know what the house is insulated with.

My analysis - I don't think it is vermiculite because the photos show fragments of insulating material suspended from spiderwebs (photos 1 and 2). These fragments appear more like chopped paper particles than platy vermiculite. This is more consistent with cellulose. Another clue is that there has been recent wiring added to the house, though possibly before the insulation was blown in, and it's unlikely that the contractor doing the wiring is going to be screwing around in an attic full of vermiculite. Most know and understand the risks. If the landlord did it himself he probably also did the insulation job. Since it looks like the insulation job was recent, based on the photos of it blown on top of the foil-faced air duct work, it can't be vermiculite. Vermiculite was poured or spread between ceiling joists I believe as opposed to being blown in. I could easily be wrong about that point though as I have never worked with vermiculite. My attic insulating experience has been with rolls of fiberglass, blown-in fiberglass, blown-in rock wool, blown-in sheep's wool, and blown-in cellulose.

Ask the landlord about the attic insulation. It is apparent that adding to it will improve the conditions in the air conditioned space below as there is not enough in there now to adequately insulate the house. It appears that he has about 2" average. 10" would be better.

If he is willing to add to it I recommend blown-in fiberglass on top of the cellulose (if that is what he currently has in the house). Cheap, easy enough to do yourself, and offers decent insulating ability relative to other options.

If you do the insulating yourself - wear a high-quality mask and change it frequently during the job, wear goggles to prevent getting any of that shit in your eyes since permanent damage can occur, wear a tyvek suit over your street clothes and trash it when you're done, wear leather gloves over your hands, coat all exposed areas of skin with petroleum jelly, lanolin, etc. to make it easy to remove any fibers after the job.

As to the doors and windows - I second/third the recommendation about storm windows. Cheap and effective way to improve the situation with the windows while still allowing you to catch the breezes during the short weeks when AC/heat isn't needed. For the doors I recommend door sweeps and replacing worn thresholds to improve the seals. Along the perimeter of the doors and windows you can also get a very effective seal using this stuff:

door jamb

brass door jamb seal - most effective jamb seal IMHO

There are door sweeps and thresholds too but since I don't know what your doors look like I will only recommend that you find one that fits the current threshold/door and use it.

I recommend doing the sealing on the outside of the house.

From the window picture another thing comes to mind here. It looks like the house may not have been painted recently and since it is an older home the paint may be lead-based. When you moved into the house you should have been given a USDeptHUD lead-based paint pamphlet. I have a link for you here:

HUD Lead-Based Paint Pamphlet - PDF Warning!

If you have young children this is very important. Also important for adults but critical for children. If the paint is chalky or flaky do not let your kids put their hands in it. Hands go to mouths, dust from hands goes to bloodstream and on to brain where it does really bad things. Read the pamphlet. Opening and closing the windows and doors can create dust from the friction so all mating surfaces need to be free of this paint if it is old.

It is possible to mitigate some of the risks by painting over the old paint. The best way is to remove the old paint.

A test kit is cheap at any big-box home and garden store - about $10 for 8 tests.

Home Depot kit

Don't pay someone $200 to do the test. Do it yourself. They will simply send their tech to HD or Lowe's to buy one of these kits and then swab a couple of places and pocket the other swabs for "sale" to the next customer - at $200. Big waste. Buy a kit, do the test, let the landlord know they will need to remediate the problem and keep a couple swabs handy in case they want to see the results themselves.

Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

Weather stripping would do it I think. Even Home Depot probably has one thick enough for that, but if not then I'm sure Amazon would.

On the top you could probably rest a draft guard. They are usually for the bottom of the door, but it looks like you could fit one on top. This DIY approach might work better due to gravity. You'll have to go to the plumbing section for the styrofoam pipe insulation, but it's only a few dollars for a 6 foot length. Heck, you might even be able to use that on the side of the door if you tape it in place.

Personally I don't like the typical flat weather stripping. I like the bristle kind or the 3D kind like this or this.

And I've never used it, but something like this could work too. I bet you could stick it on the side and top of the door.

Good luck, and I still think it would be best if your landlord took care of it if possible.

I unfortunately have had to retire from disc golf (quadruple spinal fusion) and had to sell most of my equipment to pay bills. One day, I may be able to play again!

This seems to be the best deal after doing some quick looking. This should be enough for at least 3 people playing, depending on how many discs you all want to play with. I am also a fan of the "flickering" LEDs because they help draw attention to themselves more than a constant light. You can easily see these from over 300' away. You will be amazed at the shelf life of this set up. 1 LED and 1 battery can last you a full season of playing. If your disc lands in water, IT WILL STAY ILLUMINATED!!!

I would just open up the bottom and remove the battery and use a pair of pliers to crack the "candle" casing on there and carefully remove the LED (light bulb). Make sure you don't break the two prongs connected the LED, you will use these to attach to the battery.

I would slide the two LED prongs around the battery (if it doesn't work, just flip the battery over) and wrap it tightly with a few inches of electrical tape. Now you are the owner of the world's easiest flashlight!

I preferred to tape my lights to the top of the disc, it slightly affects the flight path and makes your discs easier to turn over but it is very easy to compensate for. I would always use This tape to hold it onto the disc. It is extremely sticky and holds up great in ALL weather conditions (snow, rain, trees). I have seen people use cheaper tape and it does not hold as well. The slightly higher price tag is very worth it! This tape has NEVER came off a disc unintentionally! A roll of tape will easily last a season or two.

I use the battery as my marker and set it on the dead center of the disc and put two pieces (roughly 6" each) of tape on there creating an X.

I have converted many people to the Light side using these LEDs. They are bright enough to see from a distance, but not so bright that they will destroy everyone's night vision every time you need to "glow up your discs".

For disassembly, I peel the tape off the disc (this is the hardest part of everything, proof of quality tape!), and then slide the LED out of the tape-wrapped battery. I keep the electric tape wrapped around the batteries to prevent the batteries from touching each other and shorting out. The first time you set this up, it is a slight pain and a learning process. It gets so much easier through repetition.

Now Glow-Forth and Throw!!!

Well right now I'm running a bit bare (actually on a smoking hiatus until I cement this job I'm hankering after) but right now I have a draft guard under my door (here's an example).
Otherwise for the longest time at my old place I also used (and plan on reinstalling before the winter) some weather stripping around the door too (like this) that is just great at keeping cold air out and skunky smoke in.

A really cheap and honestly practical solution, and it'll help keep bugs and cold air out of your home. Win-win.

Then don't buy bulkly ones like this. These are heavy duty and will require more energy. There are some that are energy efficiect for rooms, like this but will be hard to find in Nepal market. Buy something portable like this. Change your window into vertical slide opening if you can.

Get something like this for under your door or create something with rubber by yourself. WHen not using AC make sure you have a vent so you don't get stuck with CO or CO2.

The design is a bit different, and the dash was redesigned to have less rattles. My '05 was much better than my '08 until i did semi solid mounts.

For the rattle in the center of the dash by the window, there is a peg that the dash mounts into and it rattles i guess. I've never bothered to take the top dash pad off, and i don't like messing with airbags unless i actually need to do something.

But. buy some weather stripping foam. i bought all the foam and rubber stripping they sold at walmart, and this is the stuff i liked the best.

Put it into the gap between your windshield and the dash pad along the entire front. Mine fit snug, i didn't remove the adhesive, just left the tape over it.

That makes a huge difference.

Thank you! :) searched draft door seal on amazon and found this one that sticks on the inside, looks perfect. https://www.amazon.ca/Stopper-Weather-Stripping-Soundproof-Prevent/dp/B07D764453/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=under+door+seal&qid=1551153577&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

​

Thanks!

I have an older model Fractal Design case, and my trays look very different from yours (they cover the sides too... for horizontal mounting).

But the screw and rubber dampeners look the same, and yeah, they don't help much.

​

for additional dampening I used a double D-Profile window/door strip ( https://www.amazon.com/Aurora-Miracle-Door-Seal-Strip/dp/B077RZFVTJ/ )

​

and glued them to the trays (two short strips on each side, two short strips front (touches the HDD's PCB, careful to keep in border area, not under main chip which may be heat sensitive), one long strip in the back.

​

make sure there's still air gaps on all sides, you don't want to seal it off. also keep the screws "loose", overfastening them does nothing but reduce dampening effect to zero.

​

the result is a much improved noiselevel. and I didn't find anything that works better in the given size constraints

​

getting rid of trays entirely and hang the HDDs with rubber bands would be better, but there is just not much room to make it work. I've done it before with 5.25" cages but these are all 3.5"

You need to look into drop-down weatherstripping/door sweep for the bottom. Sleeve/surface mount plate gets you most of the way there, and takes care of angle. Drop-down part seals against floor when door is closed, and lifts up slightly when open. Get long enough to bridge the frame and weatherstrip the corners for maximum seal.

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Neoprene-Extrusion-Anodized-Aluminum/dp/B074F4264P/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=drop-down+door+weatherstripping&qid=1567718267&s=hi&sr=1-7

That, plus compression soft rubber weatherstripping around door perimeter (on a solid door) will help a lot. Carpeting the hallway outside will help too, even though it's not your area.

If the door has a fire rating, which it better have, it's as good as practical for being solid.

I just bought a length of this stuff off of Amazon for a different thing I was working on and I think you could make it work for your sealer. Might be a little too wide but it's very flexible and you could probably squeeze it in. If it doesn't work worst case is you're out about $9 bucks. Has a self stick back, looks like this: http://imgur.com/a/7Ny3B

If that doesn't work then I would look for the the same kind of thing but just foam and then cut it to the right width. I don't see any 1/4" wide but it would be easy to cut it, just need to get one tall enough, heck I think you could even stack one on top of the other if necessary. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Density-Strip-Adhesive-Weather-Stripping/dp/B06XCGYFLP

That's my idea.

I had a pretty effective method that I used in the dorms two years ago. The main thing you need to focus on when smoking in a dorm room is airflow. You want to create negative air pressure in your room ie have more air leaving your room than entering it. This will keep the smoke going out the window, rather than into the hallway.

To do this you will need 3 things:

• a towel to put at the foot of your door
  
• a fan in the window blowing air from your room to outside
  
• This foam which you will put around the edges of your door. This will prevent air leaking through the cracks around your door.
  
  Once you have setup the negative pressure, you want to test your setup by holding a lighter around the edges of the door. If you have set your room up properly the flame should either not move, or blow sightly inside your room. If the flame is attracted to the cracks around the door then your setup is not working and you need to fix that before lighting up.
  
  
  After that the next thing to consider is the type of piece you will be using to smoke. You will want to use glass or a vape. Never smoke a joint or a blunt in your room! You want to take smaller hits to prevent your bowl from cherrying. The idea is to have as little smoke in your room as possible. I would usually cover the bowl with my hand after my hits to prevent a cherry. Then just exhale through a sploof (paper towel roll with dryer sheets) into the fan.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, this method got me through my freshman year with no trouble whatsoever. Make sure you don't open your door until your room has aired out, which is usually pretty quick if you follow the steps I outlined above.

So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.

• Parts Express Overnight Sensations Kit---$138.00
  
• Sonic Barrier Sound Dampening Foam---$13.25
  
• SMSL Q5 Amp---$129.99
  
• C8 Power Inlet---$10.16
  
• C7 Power Cord---$4.61
  
• 3.5 mm Cable---$4.99
  
• USB Cable---$8.99 (for 2)
  
• RCA Cables-need two---$9.18
  
• Digital Audio Cable---$1.69
  
• M3 by 30 mm Bolts---$9.65
  
• #6 Wood Screws---$8.37
  
• High Density Foam Tape---$5.60
  
• 24 AWG Red Wire---$9.55
  
• M6 by 40 mm Hex Bolts---$4.66
  
• Threaded Inserts---$4.55
  
• RiteAV Custom Wallplate---$26.33
  
• 1/4 inch Plywood---$5.77
  
  I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.

Yep. Ok, so all joking aside, your hinge ideas seem fine, if you go the route of replacement, just make sure the screw hole distance is the same and the spacing and diameter of the hole in the door is the same that you're replacing. From the pictures in your OP it look doable. Another option could be, putting a strip of high density foam tape around the three sides of the cabinet doors that aren't the hinge side. This is basic door weatherstripping stuff that will easily muffle the sound of them closing much more than the bumpers, be a lot cheaper than new hinges or dampeners, but on the down side, might look iffy. You can research around and find this stuff in most basic colors, at least natural common tones like white, black, beige, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-B2-Caulking-19-ounce/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=lp_495372_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398561132&sr=1-2

Two more door pro-tips:

Use foam tape like this to seal the gap between the door and doorframe.

This, combined with a draft sock will keep the dank vapors on the correct side of the door.

Bonus benefit: helps keep weird odors & noises out of your space.

The common term is weather stripping.

From your picture what you currently have is a fairly inexpensive foam version that tends to break down and compress, which is why you are getting drafts. It's generally only attached with double sided tape and should peel right off easily enough. You can get something like Goo-Gone to clean the left over adhesive off before applying new.

Something like this should be available at any HomeDepot, Lowes or similar.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-Heavy-Duty-Adhesive-Weatherstrip-17-Feet/dp/B0025KUSY6

I'm looking at ways to improve sealing as well. I thought about going the sealant tape route as you wouldn't have to remove the vesc. Do you think this 3M conforming tape would get shredded quickly? It molds almost like tube sealant. Something like gaffer or metallic tape is another option. Did you use double sided foam tape for the vesc and single sided for the battery gap? Any overheating issues? The first link is ribbed and it might even be possible to squeeze it under the coverings without removal. Great ideas guys!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BXXAJM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Y7CKVO/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W6HKT83VD4Z7GFJH3V9A&dpPl=1&dpID=71s%2BB7D7QgL&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YQAHEHM/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_of_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HF364X4RD0YY8S8TJYC6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BXXAJM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I have one of these currently over my maker select and it makes a great frame for an enclosure. I basically cut 3 pieces of blue foam insulation, the kind you get in sheets at home depot, that fit between the legs and covered the 4th with plexi-glass. I used foam weather stripping, like this stuff, to gasket the panels and stuck LED strip lighting to the top. I feed the filament in through a length of ptfe tubing inserted at the top of one of the side panels foam gasket. I can take some pictures if you want to see exactly what I mean.

If pionner dont have them i dont know either, but I think you can easily adjust something for that, its not like you need to move the speaker constantly.

Something like:

• velcro
  
  
• rubber feet and make an ark with a cutter
  
• wood blocks sanded to make an arc + velcro on top to stop vibrations
  
• foam blocks
  
• original speaker foam pads
  
• Foam door sealers trips
  
  I can think of several of thing you can put on the speaker to adjust it, it just depends on how you want it to look.
  
  The cheapest would be a sheet of foam, you probably have some laying around from packages, cut it with a cutter to your desired size and just put your speaker on top, the foam will keep it in place.

The humming noise is likely due to vibration in the fan itself. Is that an actual pic of the fan? If he is willing to let you mess around with it, I’d recommend applying some type of foam weatherstripping to the fan housing anywhere it is in direct contact with the ceiling or floor joists.
Like this Foam

Sure, but like:

• These.
  
  
• Brush Weather Stripping
  
  
• or like these

Weather stripping.

And you may have to buy new doors from home depot. They're about $400/door depending on size, but they're worth the investment. You'd probably save that much every year on climate control costs.

Since the width of a true sphere chair is 48" (122cm).

get a 120cm exercise ball.

Cover the ball with 1 layer of painter's tape or 1 layer of paper mache'.

Radially layout thick foam weather stripping.

Add more weather strip as the edge using one of the ridged lines that are around the ball as a guide. This will define your opening.

Fill in the the gaps between the weather stripping with spray foam. let cure.

Shape the foam with surfboad shaping tools.

Glass the outside of the foam. I think you would need 3 layers.

Deflate the ball. (you did make sure that the fill hole was facing out didn't you?)

Glass the inside of the foam and finish.

EDIT: Instead of weather stripping, you can use 3/4" pex tubing and double stick tape (the really sticky foam stuff). You can wire it all together and fill it with foam. That with be more rigid and it will give you a nice rounded edge at the opening of the chair.

I have the same storage tote. This rubber seal fits perfectly https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-Rubber/dp/B0000CBIFC?th=1

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Thanks! I saw that you suggested weather strips for the dust, found these on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Weatherstrip-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B06XCK65QM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537253608&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=weather%2Bstripping&th=1

Do you have any experience with them? I was wondering which measure would a detolf need. I'm guessing the 1/2*1/8.

Have you tried this yet http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Window-Insulator-1-Window-Style/dp/B00YP5AVFA/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit Install it and shrink it with a hair dryer works really well.

Fill in any visible gaps with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-Rubber/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-17&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit

I thought this was a joke...

Don't glue it. That won't last long. Try something like rubber tape. https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-6619-2-Inch-/dp/B000HE5ZB8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1467078339&sr=8-7&keywords=rubber+tape They have some at places like Home Depot. Maybe even layered electrical tape. It will peel up eventually.

Honestly, it's probably one of the top 5 shitiest jobs to do on an XJ. Not because it's hard but because it's so tedious.

Buy a compartmentalized project tray and a couple sheets of dot stickers.

Also a liberal application of foam tape so you don't regret being born after putting everything together.

I'm sorry to hear about your troubles.

Regarding the noise issue. Are you working in a separate room or do you have to work in a room where others are around? If it is a separate room but the noise is still coming through, you may want to consider getting some stripping (https://www.amazon.com/Efficient-stopper-soundproofing-weather-stripping/dp/B078N2TV7T/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521143043&sr=8-4&keywords=soundproofing) to put at the bottom/tops of your doors to help keep out noise. There are also soundproofing foam panels, curtains and quilts that you can purchase as temporary solutions if you need to cover a larger area.

I know you don't have a lot of funds but if you're stuck between spending $10-100 (check ebay and amazon) to do some minor soundproofing versus getting fired.. that may be an option for you. Another option is to look into the cheapest and highest quality noise cancelling microphone (headset). I used to do work from home technical support and they had a 0 tolerance noise policy so I understand the pressure you may be under.

I use foam weatherstripping like this under all of my tanks. I just stick it to the top of the stands. It's pretty cheap, and I think it works well. Can't say for sure because I've never had a tank crack from stress is many, many years of fish keeping. I figure it can't hurt, though. edit:more detail

I used weather proofing strips like this: https://www.amazon.com/Density-Adhesive-Weather-Stripping-Insulation/dp/B06XCK65QM/ref=zg_bs_495368_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=19AS7PJMT4HW8Y4C6FEF

Once it gets close to Christmas, just go to Butch McGuire's and wait for the snow to melt.

Also, to ensure you won't get kicked in the perineum by your first cold month utility bill - spend a few dollars on some rolls/packages of plastic that you can put over all the windows. You're not gonna be opening them very much if at all, and the pocket of air they creates a buffer that really cuts down on draft and some of the heat loss.

Something like this -

https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-V73-9H-42-Inch/dp/B000AXSVJ4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1539720013&sr=8-5&keywords=insulation+plastic

Also consider getting some of those rubber/plastic seals for exterior doors.

https://www.amazon.com/Efficient-Stopper-soundproofing-Weather-Stripping/dp/B078N2TV7T/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1539720123&sr=8-14&keywords=door+gasket

One thing that can help with doors and some windows is weatherstripping (if yours is old or missing). It goes all around the edges of a door jamb and is compressed when the door is closed, forming a (nearly) air tight seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=lp_495372_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815640&sr=1-1

You may need a different size than that.

You'd honestly just be fine with the cheaper $10-15 stuff you can get at home depot / lowes.

• Get some of that cheaper stuff, spray the edges of doorways/windows/vents/corners of rooms/etc like 3-4 times a year, should take you like 15 mins.
  
• Every now and then, put some bleach down your drains. Helps keep those fucking house centipedes away too. FUCK those things.
  
• If your door doesn't have a door draft stopper, get one such as this. If you have a huge gap under your door, that's probably where they're coming from.
  
• Borax powder will defo kill the stuff, but they'll still get in your apartment, same thing with bait traps. So you might still end up waking up with them on your arm if they can still get in (and want to get in) your place!
  
• Obligatory "keep your place clean."

What I did to prevent this kind of issues was to attach some foam tape (something like that https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Weatherseal-Stick-Weather-Strip/dp/B000BQMMVI ) on the side near the lenses. In this way the glasses can't touch the lenses.

Sure thing! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07471S61T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My condolences. I don't have any issues with the bumpy headband on the Q701, which I guess makes me lucky, in the minority, or both

The way I see it, you have 3 options:

[1] The easiest option: use some kind of foam tape between the bubbles. I'm going to call this the [Zeos the Frost King mod] (http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R534H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFC), because I heard it from /u/ZeosPantera

[2] elective surgery: use a sharp knife or scalpel to cut out the bubbles, and then tape foam on the undersurface of the universal headband. You could use a HD600 or HD650 headband pad, which is cheap (if you buy from Senn) and fits reasonably well.

[3] transplant surgery: You could replace the entire universal headband (the one with the bumps, attached with the flimsy rubber bands) by fabricating a new one (leather would be nice!) and unscrewing the side plastic housings to get at the rubber band. Of course, the patient may not survive the operation, but that's what high risk surgery is all about :-0

This kind of stuff - http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1278750-Adhesive-Weatherstrip-10-Feet/dp/B0025KUSX2

Here ya go OP: Solution to the bumps!

Weather strip

Window Sealing Kit

Foam Strip

I would put this self adhesive weatherstripping everywhere possible. If you think it will rub on the ground outside you could put it on the bottom sill. Won't be pretty but it will seal.

The earpads you mean? No, they're not bumby.

I used some cork sheets I got from michaels craft store and a self-adheisve weathering strips from amazon.