Reddit mentions: The best wheel weights

Absolutely worth it. Entry level but very practical equipment is inexpensive and is all that is really needed unless you are doing a couple hundred tires a year.

Here is a example of some simple equipment to get one started:

Tire machines with bead breaker

• I worked in a shop that used this very same manual tire machine for awhile. Works well. Sold under many names. Currently $65 at Amazon.
  
• I used a $39.99 Harbor Freight Tire machine With the $39.99 motorcycle adapters for some time at home with a few mods. $80 investment.
  
  Balancer and weights
  
  
• A simple static balancer is cheap, effective and easy to use. Also they are often more accurate that computer spin balancers as most computer spin balancers have a lower limit of 1/4oz. Where as the static balancer will/can go down to a gram or less if you wanted to, but a 1/4oz or 1/8oz will do for the street. I have a more robust version of this I made at work, but this will do a home user just fine for $81.32
  
• Stick-on wheel weights are the most versatile and can be painted what ever color you want to match the wheel they are going on. Motion-Pro 90oz box for $25.96
  
• Some $10 rim protectors will come in handy also.
  
  So for less than $200 one can set them selves up to mount and balance their own tires with decent equipment. A little bit of practice and it will become easy. A nice mounting bar/tool for these machines is a No-marr

Thanks for pointing the balance numbers out again. I think I overlooked them in the original post you made. I was able to static and road force balance tires to near perfect, like 0.005 and 0.01 and 0.02, very commonly using a couple of hunter machines back when I worked for a Goodyear subsidiary. The machines we had were pretty new back then, and had internal harmonic balancing sensors and laser evaluation to determine Out of Round.(OOR).

More like the bead on the inside, and belts on the inside. The amount of rubber is also a factor, winter tires are not so good on balancing. The bead is thicker in spots ( its a giant metal ring on both sides of the tires. If the steel belts have an issue, like bunching up, or a flaw, this can be a problem as well.

As far as those balance numbers go. All of those numbers are correctable with 5G weight sections on the inside of the rim if the weight distribution is biased to the inside (inner side) of the rim. Some times you need multiple weights in multiple locations to effectively balance a tire. It should rarely be a one and done operation. I've also seen objectively perfect tires from both Michelin, Goodyear and Kumho. Like, no weights required. Perfect Round.

Some rims have hammer on weights for the front, while others use sticky for both. I have shoehorned stickies for front if possible, but more often than not, since the hammer on weights are made of soft metal, I would cut sizes down larger weights to satisfy dependencies if it were a hammer on front. It's simple: Chisel, Hammer, Meet wheel weight and basic digital scale.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_balancing.htm Check that out, it gives you some basic information on the topic.

You can see that 0.30 is equal to 1.5oz and 1.5oz is equal to 42.5 grams. The RR, LR, and RF are all correctable with standard weights. I would respin the LF and compensate for the out of round condition, opposite to the origin of the condition.

https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Steel-Stick-Wheel-Weights/dp/B0031B7Y7W


You need to clean the application site with ether ( tire techs do this for stick ons.)


To me, it seems like your tire technician probably depends on the machines, and does the best he/she can do, with what is provided as far as weights go.

So go out there and give them a talking to. The bigger the tire, the harder to balance, but those numbers are not consistent with what I would send out.

If the tech has no idea about out of round (Inches) to oz and to grams. Tell him to use the machine to check the inside and outside. Which ever side has the most variation will require a compensating wheel weight and multiple re-balances.

Please ensure that the tech is using the proper hub for your vehicle. Trucks have huge hubs, while passenger vehicles and SUVs have smaller hubs.

Have the technician run the machine with the calibration device attached as well.


If your technician cannot balance these tires, take them somewhere else for a balance, if a place fails to adequately perform the balance, they typically will retry, and if that fails, refund the balance fee. If they are unable to correct the issue, return to your original provider, voice your complaints, talk the talk and start talking refund. I would bet my left arm that they will try to put you in another set of tires, usually for a discount. Be polite, but firm. The worst thing that can happen at a tire shop is for you to walk out.

I tell you that I cannot count the amount of times we discounted installation, lifetime balancing and rotation, valve stems and additional addons, just to move a set of tires.

Harbor freight bead breaker is only $14. Totally worth it. Also to balance the tires, I picked up this one from amazon and mounted it on two jack stands. Works great.

As for the tire changing process, I use the zip tie method for mounting the new tire. I don't particularly like it for removing the old tire. Also make sure the tires are warmed up before you start. They will be so much more stretchy and flexible.

inspired by /u/WormSlayer

 

Like some people, even wearing the rift with the triangle as far down as I can manage, there's a firm pressure on my cheek bones that eventually turn into pain. Having a counterweight helps balances out the rift and prevent it from doing this. Also, since the extra weight is dangling off the back of the headset, it does not really add any weight pressure to your head, it just kinda keeps the rift balanced correctly.

 

Bill of Materials:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064D4I5U
(you may want to grab the weights elsewhere as the price had gone up, it was $5 when I bought it)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HFK7M1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057563UO

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DH8IT

 

Making it is pretty simple. First I laid down the handkerchief flat on the table. Then I peeled the adhesive cover and stacked the four weight bars two by two on the sheet with the bottom side up so that when I fold in the handkerchief, it will stick on to the bottom of the weights. I kept the folds together with some double sided tape and finished up with a velcro tie to be able to latch on to the rift to (3 is probably overkill btw, it should be perfect with 2).

 

BTW, the weights come in a set of 4 for 60gx4= 240g total which is perfect. I was dumb and bought 4 as I thought it only comes with one stick. As a a result, I have enough materials to make another 2 counterweights. If anyone wants one, I can ship them out for the cost of shipping (~$7 for small flat rate box within US).

Yeah, I had printed it at 15% infill and had a layer problem, so did it again at 30% and it still could use more mass. What I've done in previous projects is to leave voids underneath the design to fit stick-on wheel weights like these. Doing it underneath the model means supports (or bridging) but who cares because it's on the bottom :D It also keep the CG low, and due to the relatively small size of these things you can leave pockets in several areas wherever they can fit.

Can I ask why you want to add weight to it?


Here's a great way though, use the Stick on lead weights used for balancing car wheels

Just try to make sure there's no metal on metal contact with tape to prevent shorts.

It sounds super weird, but for some specific head shapes these work very well affixed to the rear of the device, as close to the center as possible.

https://www.amazon.com/VTR-Adhesive-Backed-Wheel-Weights/dp/B00ZMD8SDG/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526536458&sr=1-4&keywords=tire+weights

I mean, it's still pressing on your face somewhat. I wear mine as loose and optimally as possible and have experimented with every configuration and even added weights to the back (don't add weights, it's dumb).

I wish it didn't touch my face at all. Maybe Gen 2

Weights I used can be found here on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/CK-Auto-Adhesive-EasyPeel-Motorcycles/dp/B06XDHXRT7

This mod adds 8 x 2 + 5 x 3 = 31 x 7g = 217g to aluminum Tofu case, significantly improving both how it feels and sounds. Applying the same mod to acrylic Tofu did not noticeably improve anything other than heft.

I highly recommend this hack but BEWARE that you will have difficulty undoing the mod because the adhesive on tire balancing weights are really tough. I haven't tried so I don't even know if it's possible to undo without destroying the case.

UPDATE: I have 2mm padding between case and PCB that prevents shorting. Note that there wasn't enough clearance with hot-swappable PCB to add another layer. If you somehow manage to do it, let us know.

They're stick-on weights for balancing wheels. Similar to these.

Use this and ruin their day/week. CK Auto 1/2oz, 0.5oz, Black, Adhesive Stick on Wheel Weights, GM, Ford, Chrysler, 63oz/Box, US Quality, (126pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WNNQWL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VcWrDbSA4V72Y

https://www.amazon.com/VTR-Adhesive-Backed-Wheel-Weights/dp/B00ZMD8SDG

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0553-Black-Weight/dp/B00CU8ZS48

You read that right. Adhesive weights. https://www.amazon.com/VTR-Adhesive-Backed-Wheel-Weights/dp/B00ZMD8SDG

Besides, no one will ever see it. Not even you after you put the keycaps on it.

That's why I said to slip a nickel under them. Also it doesn't take much weight to throw off balance. Look at how light wheel weights are. A quarter ounce will screw you all up at 80 mph and make your ride rough as hell


http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0553-Black-Weight/dp/B00CU8ZS48/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1415266765&sr=1-3