Reddit mentions: The best air conditioner parts

I got charged about $4K the replacement of every exterior window. The contractor took care of all the permits. This was probably the most restrictive part of the job and made up the vast majority of my improved insulation costs. If you are dealing with HDB, my experience was that while it was somewhat expensive, things were relatively smooth. If I had to do this again, I would have done just the bedrooms. I roughly estimate that if I were to expect these windows to repay themselves with my reduced PUB bill, I estimate my repayment time is going to be around 10-15 years.--Not great, not terrible.


I do wish that HDB would allow homeowners to take a course on safety precautions and then have them pay a fee for liability insurance and then allow us to do it ourselves. It did not look very difficult. It would save people money and make this sort of renovation much more accessible to Singaporeans. I went on Amazon and calculated that the actual cost of all the windows I installed was about S$1500 if I were in the US, so a lot of money went into the labor and permitting process.


If you don't want to do this, there are still options. My original HDB installed window frame did not have very good weather sealing. This was a significant source of noise and heat gain. Fixing this was easy with a caulking gun. I found that some heavy curtains were quite helpful, I still use them even after the new windows were installed. There are high thickness anti-convection Insulating window films are around. I tried them on one window and it was actually very effective with the thick curtains at cutting down the noise. To my ears, only slightly worse than the double-glazing. I think it would have given me almost as good energy saving if I used it on every room with aircon.--I don't have hard numbers The downside was that this solution was ugly and needed to be replaced often. Application needs a bit of practice, but if you get it wrong, the film is easy to remove. The film itself is very cheap. IIRC I used something like this.--same brand. As you can see, if you are willing to put up with the disadvantages this might actually be the best choice financially.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-3-Window-284351/dp/B015PY2BY8


As before, there are a quite a few things you can do to get a decent amount of sound reduction. In any case, if you are going to pay for new windows, they will not help you much unless you have good weather sealing and well insulated doors. There are things you can do that will improve things even if you don't want to spend that sort of money. And if you do, there are things that you MUST do in order for you to enjoy the best benefit from what money you do decide to spend. Don't give in to that sinkie learned helplessness where everything also cannot do! It is 2019, we have so many options to make our lives better.

Congrats on your purchase.

I don't know of a place to get signal cables pre-made, but you can get the components at DigiKey. For my CW-3000, the laser end is a 4-pin female cylindrical connector with only 3 pins active. The chiller end is a 3-pin female. Yours may be different. You'll need some basic soldering equipment, but it's not hard to do. Digikey's livechat support folks are pretty knowledgeable. You'll need to trace the wires in your old connectors to make sure you get the pinout correct.

Water stays in the laser tube all the time - which is what you want. Ideally there is no air gurgling through your tube, as air has 25x less thermal conductivity compared to water. Small champagne bubbles are not a problem. If you need to drain the water, start with the laser end and keep a bucket handy. Pull the hose and drain the water out of the laser, then clip the loose end of the hose to the bucket with a clothespin or binder clip. Discard the water in the bucket when you're done. When you're ready to reassemble, fill back up from the chiller side and when the chiller starts up again, you'll see some air bubbles cycling through the tube but those should work themselves out. Let it run for a while and top up the water chiller a little bit at a time as needed. Only fill/replenish with fresh distilled water.

I don't know anything about off-label chillers.

As for exhaust, in my last shop I had the laser exhaust routed through a window. We removed the glass from this old single-pane sash (which was cracked anyway) and replaced with acrylic, and just drilled a hole in it for the dryer vent. A portable AC window adapter is handy, but they're expensive. Thrift store find? There are also many DIY options.

Hope this helps.

Having a little trouble picturing what you mean in the first paragraph. Could you link the video? Generally, you can use your main 4" inline exhaust to cool the hood, and exhaust air from the tent. The problem is that they you have to have it running whenever the lights are on. That's doable, but not ideal. Especially if you ever deal with lower humidity. Because the tent will constantly be pulling in fresh air. . .versus, what I was trying to explain:

One small duct fan, just for the light. Ducted so the air cooling the light never touches the air inside of the tent. This fan will run whenever the light is on (hook it to the timer, along with the cord for the light). The inline is the only fan that touches the air your plants live in. It only kicks on when the thermostat tells it to.

So, in answer to paragraph #2: You don't hook the controller to the duct fan. Duct fan is separate. And runs whenever the light is on. Thermostat only hooks to the exhaust.

For a tent your size, in an AC room, passive intake should be fine. Open a flap or two on the bottom of the tent, cut a piece of cut-to-fit furnace filter sized to let you close the flap, but leaves a bit open at the bottom. If this is confusing, it'll won't be once you get the tent. And you can get filter material for cheap anywhere. And you don't have to worry about light-proofing for many weeks.

There are lots of other ways to handle the intake. In veg, it's as simple as opening the vent. The filters help block light in flower. And keep smaller insects/spores/etc out. If your tent has circular inlets instead of the flaps/screens, no problem, run bit of ducting and tape the filter inside the duct.

Finally. . .venting outside the room. If you use "my" setup, you will have two ducts, one constantly cooling the hood, one intermittently exhausting the tent. A simple Y-connector (and maybe a 4" to 6" ducting adapter, if you go with the 4" fan) will let you merge the two for a single duct out the window.

It's all really hard to visualize just in text. I can show some pics of my setup, but it's a bit confusing right now because it's winter in New England. So I keep my light fans, and my veg exhaust, blowing into the room. Free heat. But if you think you still aren't "getting it", let me know. I'll try and get a visual for you.

edit: Have a grow shop nearby? I don't recommend buying everything from them (although I buy my fans and ballasts from local shops. . .because if those break, I can't wait several days for a replacement). But if you were to go in and ask about the best way to rig a 2x4 w/ CoolTube, they should tell you. And not force any kind of sale. The people in my shops are super helpful, and taught my 80% of what I know about growing. I stop by for fun at this point.

I work as a handyman and install a lot of ACs.

If the window you are putting AC into is facing the street you'll likely get a fine from the city if you don't install a bracket under the AC. It's something that the city has started to enforce recently.

Good news is that you can get one of these nifty no-drilling brackets that install almost instantly! I love these things:

BLACK + DECKER BAB-2438 Window Air Conditioner Support Bracket, 7.1 x 25.8 x 16.7 inches, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IHNUYUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_llEkDb7AB4XGS

Video of how easy it is to install this bracket:

https://youtu.be/iNB1KxKL-rs


If $90 new is too steep I have a used one from an old job I can sell you for $40. Send me a pm if you want it. Edit: sold

There are smart controls for window A/C units with IR remote control

MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller Smart Home Infrared Universal Remote Blaster,One for All Control AC TV DVD CD AUD SAT etc,Compatible with Alexa and Google Home,No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH1X7PX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SV2pDbJY76JJR


atomi Smart Air Conditioner Adaptor, WiFi Thermometer Monitoring, Provides Smart AC Control, Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, iOS and Android, Control temperature from anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ6BHMZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MX2pDbG6043GY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFKNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6S2pDbBSTBKR9

Sensibo Sky (International) - Air Conditioner Controller, Wi-Fi, Compatible with iOS and Android, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU2YSR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gV2pDb1JNWVF2


Ambi Climate 2 Smart Air Conditioner Controller - AI Powered, WiFi Enabled | Works with Alexa, Siri, Google Home, IFTTT, iOS, Android | Auto Temp Control for Window Units, Mini Split & Portable Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hX2pDbWDXSG28


But using the nest sensor to control it, that's not possible. You could use another nest in the room and have it actuate a relay that tells a arduino or raspberry pi to send an IR signal to the A/C.....you can do all kind if things

I really need this air conditioner cover I recently looked outside to see Koda taking his morning pee INTO my air conditioner! Plus we get a ton of leaves in there in the fall and I'd like to just be able to protect it so we don't have to shell out a bunch of money for a replacement. I'll be there for you .... when the rain starts to pour! Now I want to watch Friends lol. Thanks for the contest!

I’m not normally a home automation guy, but I use Sensibo AC controllers (need to have the ability to use an IR remote control). It’s cut the cooling costs at my house by about $125/month so they already paid themselves off in 3 months.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTGD3D9

Big fans help a lot when it comes to moving the air around and keeping the AC cycles efficient.
I have these and love them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0X1SOY

I also have applied heat blocking window film on my east and west facing windows that cook in the sun all day.

Beyond that, I’m constantly making insulation and air sealing improvements around the house.

Last year I was paying about $300/mo during the summer, now I’m down to about $150-175.

yes sash are most common but you can definitely get a different type for push-out windows. not sure if links below will work but you either get a special one like this:

https://tinyurl.com/y3e2c37g


or you get a standing up one like the one shown in this photo and use a window seal:

https://tinyurl.com/y6f97far

This is an odd photo out of context. The left side shows the filter on one side with air direction arrow facing out. On the right it shows filter reverse and the fan turned around. OP says use tape, picture uses string.

The filter should be mounted on the intake side with the airflow arrow pointed toward the front. This keeps the fan blades clean. The suction will hold the filter pretty well without the string but it helps keep it in place when it's off. Don't use tape as it leaves residue and will wear out.

OR you could just buy a box fan filter holder ...

I made one for my Hexamid, it was quite easy. I would suggest trying to find a window insulation kit (which is polycryo material). They usually come in large sheets far in excess of what you need for a decent bathtub and include a double sided tape. I know you are not in the US but this is what I used, for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PY2BY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My procedure was to measure out my desired area (taking into consideration how high of a wall you want) and then I googled a way to triangle fold corners that create a waterproof fold. Use the tape to secure and I folded over the top edge to increase resistance to tearing. You can also put some tenacious tape or other strong tape on the corners so that you can punch a small hole for mitten hooks.

Measure twice, cut once. Mine turned out to be almost the same weight as the DCF bathtub available from ZPacks (just slightly over 3oz) and has had no issues or problems in use.

Window film or food wrap or shrink wrap like the Duck Brand found cheaply at Wally World also comes in different thickness(mils). When more concerned about punctures or tears and stress pts like when making polycro bathtub floors I receive better durability with Duck Max at 1.5 mils(150 gauge) which is more than twice the thickness of the .7 mils(70 gauge) Duck brand product you've linked. https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-120-Inch-284352/dp/B015PY2BTS

Painters plastic in .7 or 1.5 mils in the same comparative polycro wt doesn't have the same shrink potential. I've stored painter's plastic in my car trunk no big issue. With either .7, .75, 1.0 or 1.5 poly it can shrink up into a hard ball with heat. It 's why it's alternatively called shrink wrap and the Duck Brand box pictures shows someone with a heat gun attaching it taut to a window.

​

IMHO, the lightest wt polycro is a darling of the UL and SUL crowd which I am part so that factors into my decision to use it over painter's plastic. I tend to buy from GG, MLD, and other UL cottage venders that offer it so I buy at the same time as other gear although, as said, Duck Brand is found in cheaply IMO every Wally World I've looked.

​

As far as GG polycro it is also offered in two different thickness .75 mils(75 gauge) and 1.0 mil(100 gauge). Others such as MLD also offer polycro. Ron at MLD has stated his poly offering is food grade so don't know if that chemically makes a personal difference. At $8 -$9.95 for up to two polycro ground sheets I personally don't find that all expensive compared to large rolls of painters plastic when only using for backpacking.

​

Obviously when making performance claims on durability one has to compare oranges to oranges ie; compare the same thicknesses of poly and painter's plastic as Friggin monkey said.

​

What may be a personal consideration is the lighter the wt of either painter's plastic or polycro the more it tends to blow around. Also, it tends to tear uncontrollably in the lightest wts(thicknesses) if not immediately addressed with duct tape repairs. Neither is a ripstop material. Consequently, at some pt if not totally replacing, as in DCF ground cloths, the duct tape added wt can easily result in greater wt and bulk and additionally adhesive hassles unfolding and sticking to other gear....so....It's also quite slippery so don't use it to cowboy camp on an incline.

When you removed the old motor, did you also remove it from the mounting bracket?

Amazon is pretty good for appliance parts. You need something like this.

Do you think something like this would help?
http://www.amazon.com/Small-Fan-Mini-Air-Conditioner-Original/dp/B002F8IFV6/ref=pd_bxgy_hg_text_y

It's great because my grow room is extremely small and I only have one plant. I'm just not sure if it'll make it way too humid or not. I basically have to choose between too hot or too humid, I guess. Which would you say is better?

> we just went by what the instructions stated.

Understood. Those adapters are generally meant to snap into a special adapter that fits into your window or door. In that case the entrance and exit are well spaced, on end, and there is free air flow.

Installing them much closer together, sideways, and behind the grill is the concern here.

On sleeved air conditioners like the Fedders units- you need a special baffle if you are installing a short unit in a long sleeve to prevent the problems we're talking about.

For example- this is a Friedrich baffle for installing their shorter units in a long sleeve.

If the weather is still cool- the unit will still work- just not as efficiently- but if it gets really hot out- then you run that risk with the compressor.

> I've learned quite a bit from all the comments so far, really appreciate the suggestions / feedback!

No problem! The rest of the project is awesome and I did not mean to detract from your accomplishment. I just don't want you to have to buy another AC because this one burned out.

Check out some of the discount sites as well, such as http://www.sierratradingpost.com/ https://www.steepandcheap.com/ https://www.backcountry.com/ https://www.campmor.com/

If you're backpacking with it, 6 pounds is gonna weigh you down a fair amount. You could probably find something for the price range you're looking for that weighs 4-5 lbs. If you look hard enough, you might even find something for 3ish lbs.

Consider the features. Are you planning to camp alone most of the time, but want the extra space for gear and an occasional extra person? If so, grab a 2-man tent and worry less about having two doors. Are you planning to almost always go with another person? Consider 2 or 3 man tents (2 man will leave you just enough room to put 2 sleeping pads side by side in most tents) and keep in mind the weight can be split between you. If you're backpacking alone most of the time, then you're better off saving weight on a lighter 2-man tent. Carrying an extra 2 lbs of tent to have extra space for a rare extra camper is going to suck on all those solo trips. Other features to consider: pockets, double-wall construction (helps limit condensation), and free-standing or not (free-standing you can pitch anywhere, including rock - non-free standing requires several spots for you to stake out the tent to keep it taught and upright).

Also, save yourself $50 and don't buy a footprint. Make one! If you're camping on nice soft forest floor, you can get away with something thin that's primary job is preventing moisture and minor pokey things. In that case, buy this https://www.amazon.com/Duck-284352-Heavy-Duty-Insulation-120-Inch/dp/B015PY2BTS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495502434&sr=8-2&keywords=duck+window+kit and cut it down to be about 1.5 inches smaller on each side relative to your tent bottom (you don't want it to catch and funnel rain underneath the tent). You could consider beefing up the sides with some tape and grommets for the stake points. Check out the /r/Ultralight community - they have several guides on making your own footprint. If weight is less of a concern and you're expecting to be on rough terrain like rock, then you could make a floorprint out of tyvek which can be purchased at a place like home depot.

Good tip, if you're looking for a cheaper alternative they do make filters you can attach to box fans like this. Gizmo Breeze Fan Filter Attachments for 20 inch Box Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y11WXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8cH6Cb3AX76GQ

Buy an extra long portable AC hose from Amazon if you need it, and hire a handyman to install the kit as best as possible. No need for a contractor, and I can't think of a store that would send help for this type of thing.

You could also just let the hose hang outside the window, and the AC will probably be able to overcome the infiltration from the window. That's all the kit is for, to seal up the window from letting extra heat in from the outside or the hose itself. Alternatively you could prevent infiltration by pointing a fan at the open window with the hose hanging out of it, to keep the air moving from inside to outside. You'll want to put the AC away in a couple months anyways. It's a tricky situation.

Edit: I also found this thing. A handyman could install that for you.

Yeah, the ones that sit on the floor and use a hose for exhaust are called "Portable Air Conditioners" apparently. They also often have remote controls.

My plan was basically to get a portable A/C and one of these insulating window seals since my window opens outwards. However, my only window is 15 feet up (I normally open it using a pole my landlord provided me).

So add together getting the unit + proper tubing and coupling + insulating the window + needing a ladder and I thought I'd see if someone in town was better at it.

Sounds like most people just DIY though and that's probably enough for 90%+ of apartments :)

I used one of these DC fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXDAWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To avoid the exact issues you're working with. Plug and play.

I got two large-ish angle irons and drilled them as low as I could on the inside of the wooden collar, then zip-tied the fan on there, pointing down. Does the job and was super easy.

I use this polycryo sheeting. It's 2x the thickness of the regular duty stuff, but weighs only a few grams more. I thought I'd get two ground sheets out of one 84x120 piece, but the resulting 5'x7' is just a bit small.

Super tough, I have 20+ nights on mine in all kinds of conditions, seems totally intact.

I have only used Tyvek as a groundsheet, but will be switching this year to save weight.

Dude made a polycro tarp out of window film.

The Heavy Duty Duck Brand seems to be have its share of fans.

More discussion from BPL

You can insulate the compressor no problem. They are cooled by the refrigerant and the motor heat removed via the condenser, so insulating the compressor itself won't cause any problems... though personally I would leave the electrical area exposed to allow heat from the relay to escape.

Air conditioners often insulate their compressors to reduce noise and condensation, and use covers like these: https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

Not sure on your use of material. You can poke it around anything you think is rattling I guess. Compressors in bar bridges tend to be pretty quiet, so it could be a pipe just gently tapping away on a metal edge somewhere. Usually no fan motors associated with bar fridges, so it's unlikely to be a fan.

You can control your window AC with this (app, web portal, Alexa) as long as the AC has an infrared remote capability:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nlx8ybTGWYFZ5


Then use this thermostat for the central HVAC unit.

Ecobee3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZIRV39M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Nlx8ybHQE7BMW


A window AC is cheaper, but you'll get better results adding a unit to your central system for sure.

I'd recommend the Pioneer unit instead of the Mr. Cool one. Also, I really like my controller for the mini split, so if you're willing to spend a little extra, then get this as well - https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Programmable-Conditioner-Controller-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

I got that exact unit a few weeks ago. It does that job very well. The one issue though is that even the highest fan speed isn't very forceful so you may have to make a fan chain to get the cool air in more awkward corners of your place.

Some additional notes is that for me the hoses weren't long enough at 8ish ft. Hose extension are not cheap. Additionally my specific window opening couldn't use the included mount so I snagged this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07CCMZ3FD/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526335183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=home%2Bwindow%2Bseal&dpPl=1&dpID=51vhGdgSocL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

• New units are tons quieter. That, and moving it would be the best way to solve it, but not the cheapest.
  
  
• A compressor blanket might help somewhat if yours doesn't already have one. Be sure to shut off the power before digging around in there. Check the size, but this is one product in that category. https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2
  
  
• Have an HVAC tech check pressures and temperatures, and adjust "freon" charge if needed. Under or overcharged units can be noisy.
  
  
• Don't restrict the airflow. The install manual for your condenser unit will call out the minimum required clearances. Three foot is a general rule from what I have observed.

When I was working at university in a non-technical environment with some serious servers (good-guy-boss :) ), we had the janitors to install holes in the windows to fit the air outtakes of a portable AC.

If cutting circles into glass is not an option (which I assume), why not at least try some window seals like this (no recommendation for this product, just my first hit)

I went with these fans and im very happy ...no wire nuts or electrical tape required, and there about the same price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXDAWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also if you are looking for a good light set up use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091HO0FY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is my build http://imgur.com/a/0gYxr

I'd recommend giving this a try - https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Programmable-Conditioner-Controller-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

Works flawlessly with my Mitsubishi split unit.

My HVAC company was selling it, so I landed with this - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453203229&sr=8-1&keywords=airpatrol+wifi

Not sure how it compares to the others price wise, but I really like its features (alarms, timer, weather, etc.)

Do a search for ductless or portable AC. There’s a bunch of units you can get in the $300-500 range. Target or Amazon... You could move it around the apartment with you from room to room and no need to open any windows or doors.
Might work for you ;)

Edit: link added
Honeywell MO08CESWK Compact Portable Air Conditioner with Dehumidifier and Fan for Rooms Up To 350 Sq. Ft. With Remote Control (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W54RDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kDlqDb2721HHM

There’s also an adapter for side open windows!
HOOMEE 300 cm Universal Window Seal for Portable Air Conditioner and Tumble Dryer - Works with Every Mobile Air-Conditioning Unit, Easy to Install - Air Exchange Guards with Zip and Adhesive Fastener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C986TBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lFlqDbQTVM2GD

Yup, I use a similar product (AmbiClimate) and it's awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B07MTGD3D9

I carried this around with me last year and it was great.
http://www.amazon.com/Original-Handy-Cooler-Mini-Air-Conditioner/dp/B002F8IFV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396555808&sr=8-1&keywords=handheld+air+conditioner

As I understand the Nest won't work with mini splits. Rather it's compatible with more centralized heating systems.

For your Daikin ductless heat pump, I'd recommend something like this controller - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

In addition to the three mentioned by u/Heliumx, here are a few others:

• Tado
  
• Pebble
  
• Remotec ZXT-120 - needs a z-wave controller that's accessible via the internet.
  
• Ambi
  
• Altris
  
  Finally, you can also use a Broadlink RM Mini3, which at $12 is about as cheap as it gets - easy to program, work with HomeAssistant. If you have a temperature sensor paired to HomeAssistant, then you can have full blown automation as well as remote control.
  

yes, well at least you can get ones that work on casement windows. eg. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07C986TBQ

If you don't mind having the bedroom windows inaccessible try this and then put sound deadening curtains over:
Duck MAX Strength Heavy Duty Insulating Film Window Kit, 3-Window, 62-Inch x 126-Inch, Indoor, 284351

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-3-Window-284351/dp/B015PY2BY8/ref=pd_cp_60_2?pd_rd_w=7C19j&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=JR24S3XB5FCDW0YVFFC1&pd_rd_r=8611f927-6839-11e9-b7b1-9768eea003d5&pd_rd_wg=3Q1xY&pd_rd_i=B015PY2BY8&psc=1&refRID=JR24S3XB5FCDW0YVFFC1

So, we just got an AirCon unit and this thing has been amazing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CCMZ3FD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It's a seal that goes around the window. You can still open and close the window... but it should stop the huge birds coming in!

Yea I just bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IXWL72G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_89TpDbKAVZ4GJ

So that I can seal the window that I'm gonna vent out of. Thanks!

Get this: http://amzn.com/B002F8IFV6

Then a USB/Cig Lighter adapter and BAM! you're good. Keep a small cooler in your passenger seat with frozen sponges that you can swap out occassionally.

You really wouldn't want something like a smart switch due to the power draw when you initially turn on the air conditioner AND you wouldn't really be able to control it. You'd want something that can shoot commands to the AC (assuming it comes with a remote that's IR).

The following products all fulfill that niche!

• Remotec Z-Wave ZXT-120
  
  
• Tado
  
  
• The Pebble
  
  
• Ambi
  
  
• Altris
  
  
• Broadlink
  
  
• Flair Puck
  
  
• Nature Remo
  
  
• Rumy

It is the same as this too! You could pick it up at like Walmart or Ace.

And I'll thank you too.

https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

That stuff is not cheap. :-(....but still doable.

Here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJPd2x9CJ0Y

Or, if you want to go the Amazon route (ref link) here

Air source heat pumps lose efficiency as outdoor air temperature drops. The compressor has to work harder. Put an acoustic blanket like this one around the compressor(s). It'll reduce the dBA level by 40%. Much cheaper than an acoustic box.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008J5H6I2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?slotNum=2&language=en_US&ie=UTF8&linkCode=g12&linkId=a1294a23791123d47df71a7ad2727573&imprToken=pxv32azsr7mR3hiGlzI67w&tag=hitthegolbal-21

This is the fan I use and this is the timer it runs on also.

Not sure a Nest will work with a window AC. I think you'd need something like this:

http://amzn.com/B07MTGD3D9

You should be fine. If you're concerned about it, use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PY2BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yjxBDb7QFF7SK) to prevent drafts.

Like 3.5' x 2.5'. Or, at least, I think that large noisy vent in a central location is the return...

Aftermarket compressor sound blanket wraps are indeed a thing I don't know much about them either.

Nope.

For the heating, you are looking at what is known as a line voltage thermostat. It works by turning a 240v circuit on and off as needed.

It you want to control an A/C that has a wireless remote, you may want to look at a device such as Cuby, Flair, or AirControl:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cuby-Smart-Smart-Mini-Split-AC-WiFi-Programmable-Air-Conditioner-Controller-CUBY-2WE/303128427

https://flair.co/pages/mini-splits-and-window-units

https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Conditioner-Controller-mini-split-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

You would not install a thermostat, per se; you'd be installing a controller that would talk to the unit.

If it uses an I.R. controller, then this may work:

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00CJBBYS0

or maybe this?:

https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Programmable-Conditioner.../dp/B00P2KP0MQ

there is this for ac, very expensive though
https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

These!

Polycro Goundsheet


Sawyer Squeeze Mini


Cascade Mountain Aluminum Trekking Poles

Most people find the .75mil too thin and double it up. Instead of that just get the 1.5mil.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002F8IFV6?pc_redir=1404917440&robot_redir=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PY2BTS/

I bought two of these for my little brothers car. http://www.amazon.com/Small-Fan-Mini-Air-Conditioner-convenient/dp/B002F8IFV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345444625&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+for+your+car Then he lets them run plugged into usb car charger while at work or where ever he said it has helped a lot.

C’est pareil pour moi et je les ai laissés entrouverts attachés avec un serre câble en fait juste de quoi passer le tuyau pour que l’air souffle bien dehors et le soleil ne passe que peu . Après ça isole relativement bien donc l’air ne revient pas mais c’est sur que si tes volets sont totalement fermés ça n’ira pas.

C’est ce modèle : HOOMEE Isolant Climatisation... https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07C986TBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share attention pour les dimensions à bien prendre les 4 cotes de la fenêtre que tu isoles, si c’est une fenêtre « double » tu ne comptes qu’une des deux fenêtres.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-120-Inch-284352/dp/B015PY2BTS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=heavy+duty+patio+door+insulation&qid=1568728824&sr=8-4

Most people go for that heavy duty patio door one. Stake out your tent over top of the sheet, then cut the sheet to size, slightly smaller than your tent.

I went with this and cut some off the roll to size. Double layered it over the intake vent for more light blocking. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIZN0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p-1gzbAVNB0F0
Taped the two layers together like so: http://imgur.com/YxFW3x2 then taped that over the tent intake.

Slightly over your budget, but this looks promising:

http://www.amazon.com/Original-Handy-Cooler-Mini-Air-Conditioner/dp/B002F8IFV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396001998&sr=8-1&keywords=tent+air+conditioner

Who doesn't want an air conditioned tent?

I used this one and cut it down. Note that it's thicker than most others, but my 81*47/39 is 2.8 oz and sturdy. 1.5 mil is 1.5 thousandths of an inch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PY2BTS

Two cautions come up about this approach. First, make sure your smart plug can handle the load. The Wemo is supposed to be able to handle 1800w which is a typical US wall outlet but some outlets are wired with 20 amp circuits so you will want to double-check the specs for your AC. The other is that fast cycling your unit can damage it so you'll want to make sure that there is a decent delay between cycles. A few minutes at least. You could do this by setting at least a 3-4 degree difference between the on and off settings. But it's something to be aware of if you are manually controlling it.

You also need to make sure your unit auto-starts after cutting the power. Not sure about AC units but lots of space heaters and coffee pots need to be manually turned back on after the power is cut and restored.

I saw this on Amazon. It's a little expensive but makes all those problems go away (replacing them with different ones I'm sure).

https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Conditioner-Controller-mini-split-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ