Reddit mentions: The best art glues & pastes

Below are tools/materials I use all the time. I keep them super handy on my work station.

Stamps/Stamping Platform/Blocks: Clear cling stamps are going to be the most space efficient for you. I buy lots of clear stamps and metal dies on ebay to save money but the quality is not nearly as good as US-made brands. If you have wood mounted stamps you can unmount them for use with the stamp platform and for easier storage. There are tutorials online. I second and third other people's recommendations of the Tim Holtz stamp platform. I use it ALL the time. You can get placement perfect for stamps but I also love it because you can reink and stamp a couple times to get a more even and inked impression. Like /u/erwtje-be said, you can put a piece of craft foam on the platform and sometimes that helps get better impressions. I get the thinner craft foam at dollar tree and also use it to raise larger sections of the card up for some dimension. For the thicker craft foam go to Michael's or another craft store. I do use acrylic blocks from time to time too. I find the round/scalloped edge type are the ones I grab most often.

Inks: My two most used inks are VersaMark and VersaFine. I use VersaMark for most of my embossing but there are awesome other techniques you can use it with too. VersaFine gets the best edges and details IMO for all regular stamping. I highly recommend the full size. Don't bother with the itty bitty baby cubes. The great thing about both of these is they can be reinked.

Embossing Powder Tool: You use this to remove static from your paper before stamping embossing ink and applying powder so the powder only sticks to your sentiment and not to finger prints or other parts of the paper. You can make your own (tutorial) buy one like this or this. I have all three but use my home made one (6 years ago) the most often. I second /u/sm9406's powder list and point that it elevates the look and feel of your cards exponentially. You can do everything with black, white, clear, silver, and gold. Use the antistatic tool on the paper that catches your embossing powder to get as much of it back in the container as possible.

Scissors/Tape/Glue: I use my Tim Holtz non-stick serrated scissors everyday. They are for cutting adhesive tapes/double stick foam. They are great if you buy tape on rolls, not necessary if you use the plastic applicator double stick stuff. I find that much less versatile than buying rolls of double stick tape and foam tape. I personally buy mine from DAISO but you may not have that store where you are. They have all different widths and I find the quality cannot be beat for $1.50 a roll. Scor Tape is also excellent though it is much more expensive. My favorite glue is the ZIG two way glue pen. When it's blue and wet it is permanent or if you let it dry clear it can be used to temporarily bond things.

Tweezers: I never bothered to get tiny craft tweezers for a looong time and now I realize how much time and headache could been avoided if I'd only known how much I would use them. To remove double stick tape backing, to position small glued elements, to pick up and place tiny embellishments, etc. These are by far the best tweezers I've bought. I tried some knock off alternatives but they honestly don't even come close. If you're going to get tweezers, I highly suggest these by EK Tools.

Ruler/Layer Tool: I'm absolutely obsessed with this tool. If you like the clean look of layered/matted paper on your cards it is a must. It will look perfect every time. You use this with an Xacto or other craft knife. You will want a self healing mat or a tempered glass cutting surface. I prefer the glass mat over the self healing because you can glue on it and ink on it and then scrape or wash it off. That link is to the one I have, it is a bit large. I know they make smaller ones though. My favorite ruler is by Tim Holtz It has the metal edge so you can run your craft knife against it. I cut things by hand with the ruler and layer tools much more often than with the paper cutter.

ScorBuddy: Like /u/Mystery_Substance suggested, the ScorPal is awesome. They make a mini version called the ScorBuddy and I use that 99% of the time over my larger one. The big one is mostly useful if you're going to make your own envelopes which I don't really do.

I was originally going to be lazy and buy them pre dyed and already made from another seller. But when I got the sample color flowers I ordered. I realized I would rather have more control in the colors. What one person considers wine another says burgundy. So I looked up dying them on YouTube. And doing the stems.

I bought these stems

BCP Dark Green 50PCS 22 Guage 30CM / 11.75INCH Length Iron Wire , Artificial Flower Stems Making Accessory , Floral Arrangement Accessory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CXY7S5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zRbzD9nYZPWr5

And later bought a thinner more pliable kind from hobby lobby/Michaels.

And a hot glue gun

AdTech Lo-Temp Mini Hot Glue Gun COMBO PACK | Low Temp Compact Tool for Crafting, School Projects and DIY | Comes with 10 Multi-Temp Glue Sticks | Ite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLS2WPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_XyMg2Y1csNDJn

And this to make holes in the base of the flower so the stems attach more securely.

Modeling Sculpture Needle Point Clay Detail Tools Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F55LOW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_sj8KyzIAUbZXY

So I stuck the pin in the base. Widened the hole because sola (balsa wood) is a super crafty wood to work with. It's like a firm foam. It's perfect. I've used it for crafts when I was a kid. Then put a dollup of hot glue on the hole and stuck the stem in. Voila!

Then after that was done. I got around to dyeing them. I found the colors I wanted (just regular acrylic paint). Mixed about a quarter of the bottle into a little Tupperware bowl. Stirred it up. (I used warm water but eventually it cools and didn't make a difference). Then dipped the flowers in one by one. Dip. Swirl. Only for like 3-5 seconds depending on the flower. Some have thicker petals than others. I also got smart later on and grabbed and eye shadow brush

http://www.urbandecay.co.uk/en_GB/eyes/eye-brushes/pro-brushes/UD744.html

(Not that exact one but the same style)

Dipped that in the paint and got in between some of the petals where I couldn't seem to get paint. Then just left them upside down on a paper towel to dry.

In hind sight. I should've only dipped my pink ones once. But at the time. They looked too light. So I dipped them again. And they're pink. Which is what I wanted. But of course I want the prior pink. lol. It's pretty cool though because you can change the intensity of the colors.

They come originally in a very pretty cream color. And you can keep them that color or dye them. They're very cheap and easy to work with. I spent $120 on flowers and supplies. And that's 150 flowers. Considering what fresh or even fabric one would run me. I can buy more and get the pink color again if I want. But laziness might win out :)

https://instagram.com/p/BXzILVTAn2B/

https://instagram.com/p/BXzIV2ggVUj/

Not sure if that'll let you see all the flowers. Pre dyed and after. And the lighter pink is what I want. But the bubble gum pink might be here to stay. I doubt I'll even care 5 years from now. :)

Hey there, these are the things I've acquired in my little papercrafting kit that have made it a lot easier and more enjoyable:

• 110 lb Cardstock like this is exactly what I use, yes it'll go through your printer with ease, and it'll take a while to go through all of it, I just look at my stack of paper and think of all the stuff I can make with it!
  
  
• A simple crafting knife will make a world of difference, also pick up some replacement heads, I never used to replace mine, but these things will dull over time and there will be an incredible difference when you pop a new one in!
  
  
• A small low temp glue gun (pretty sure mine was half this price at wal-mart, in fact I'm sure you can get everything there) and a package of glue sticks, I got a bag of 100, never looked back haha.
  
  
• Something to cut on, I bought a thin plastic cutting board from the dollar store at one point that I now use, but whatever works for you, I'm sure some things will dull your blades more or less depending on how hard you press but it's more so that you don't cut up your desk.
  
  If you're ever stuck or unsure how to make something, check youtube, TONS of video tutorials there, also a good place to look for builds people have done as they will usually have links to download what they've been making.
  
  A quick google search can bring up a ton of results if you just search for papercraft, there a lot of blogs that highlight awesome builds and designs people are sharing, like these:
  
  Minecraft!
  
  Some by Canon?
  
  Cool blog
  
  There was a ton of blogs I was looking at a couple weeks ago that I can't find a trace of today...odd, I'll keep looking though...
  
  more sites:
  
  http://global.yamaha-motor.com/yamahastyle/entertainment/papercraft/
  
  http://www.cubeecraft.com/
  
  Transformers!
  
  another blog
  
  Here's a really good blog! and a list of papercraft builds from this subreddit!
  
  
  It will be a bit tough and sloppy for the first couple times you build something, but don't worry, you'll get better, definitely making sure your cuts are straight can help with precision and getting everything to look perfect so using a straight edge to cut instead of freehanding it can help if it's tough.
  
  Definitely try a couple small simple builds to start, don't be put off if you get to a point in one that you can't figure out or mess up, you can always reprint that part/page, or put it down and print a different build out then come back to it later! Also if you print out a page and it's formatted wrong or the colours messed up (or whatever, my printer sucks sometimes) don't forget you can flip that piece of paper and print on the other side instead haha.
  
  
  Something to note is that when cutting a design out, there will be lines that need to creased so that they can be folded to make the model, the way you go about this is you flip over your knife and crease the lines with the back dull side of it (make sure you're not pressing super hard so you don't actually cut through with it or tear it).
  
  
  Once you're a pro look into pepakura and you can start building things like these!
  
  Halo armour!
  
  Halo guns!
  
  Skyrim!
  
  
  Hope some of this helps
  
  edit: some formatting and added a ton of stuff

During the summer I started papercraft as a hobby as well, and what I've noticed is that there isn't really one website that explains getting into the craft very well.

Here are some links I came across.

Essential items (also has links to models)

Zip Dry can be more useful than Elmer's for some projects

A Bone Folder is useful to have but not essential, can make scoring without leaving marks easier

More info on what to use for paper and some video guides


When I started I made a bunch of Cubees as they were quick and easy to build. As for tips on moving into models, I say once you feel comfortable and you don't mind wasting some ink, just go for it, grab a few models and just build.

When building a model it's important to understand how it's supposed to look in three dimensions as you're building it, download Pepakura Viewer, most if not all models come with a .PDO file, this way you can plan and build your model without having to guess what pieces go where and how.

I will post some links to websites with models, but if you just google papercraft models you should find tons. I'd say don't start out too difficult if you want to not get frustrated, find models that are between 1-3 pages.

Ultimate Papercraft posts a new model every Saturday, but also has a good backlog that is categorized by difficulty

Pokemon Papercraft is a good place to start as well, the creators also usually leave tips for the models that might not be obvious

That's all I can remember off the top of my head, I know there's some good stuff I'm forgetting, I'll post it if comes back to me.

Good luck!

So I got the idea off YouTube from a guy called MTB Alan. Super awesome video of him showing you step by step. Check it out.

https://youtu.be/SUtwXFQMA6w

$10:
Sugru Mouldable Glue - Black (3-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5azoDb9ANG90W

$7:
Suptig Tripod Mount Adapter for Gopro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XVZKP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0czoDbBPVN334

That’s it. IMO looks way better than zip ties, holds much better than zip ties. The Sugru is tested for 4lbs (roughly 2kg) and it feels solid as a rock. Took about 5 minutes to knead, 2 minutes to mold, and then let it sit for 48 hours. The pack says 24 will be plenty but since I used all 3 packs I decided to let it sit a little longer.

Hope it helps somebody! 🤙🏼🤙🏼

I was in a big pinch the other day and I used some Gorilla Super Glue and it worked pretty well until I ran hot water over the bowl. It re-broke (the stem was broken cleanly off a bong's bowl) and I re-glued it. It lasted a little over a month and then it managed to re-break again after 10 different cleanings. Not bad for some random super glue that didn't even have glass listed.

To be honest, I think the best bet is just to Google something like 'glass glue'... just found this super glue which seems to have OK reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-233841-2-Gram-Super-Glass/dp/B000PSBBM8

I'll run you down the materials, as it was thrown together really quick. Best part is I used no paint, heh. the white pieces are just that floppy EVA craft foam you get from a craft store with fake white leather from Amazon spray glued on. The gold pieces are the same craft foam with a layer of poster board spray glued on to offer more rigidity and a super flat surface, and the gold is gold spandex from Amazon cut into 2 inch strips places 1.75 inches apart, so they overlap using the same spray glue. I used the same fake white leather and foam backer rod from home depot to make the trim. I secured the trim with staples and then hot glued everything else together. The chest and back plates of the top pieces had to be thicker and more rigid, so I used those EVA foam floor mats you get online or at home depot with some Velcro to make it removable for transport (everything folds well and flat packs). I used hot glue and Velcro to secure the bottom gold pieces as well as make them removable. I also hot glued and duct taped some magnets behind the front and back plates of the shoulder part as well as the back of the best pieces on both sides. This makes the shoulder part snap in securely and hold position. The materials cost is very cheap. Getting magnets, velcro, and hot glue is easy, so I'll post the other materials links here for ya. I highly recommend you get a rotary cutter, cutting pad, and one of those big square rulers from Walmart to save you a ton of time.

Gold Spandex

Foam Mats

Spray Glue

Fake White Leather

Craft Foam

1. Something Grey We are indeed all mad here.
   
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. I love the smell of tomato plants after rain.
   
   
3. Something food related that is unusual Carrots were originally purple until the Dutch bred orange ones
   
   
4. Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. For my husband because he is evil and can do Rubix Cubes without much/any thinking involved. This will teach him to be so smug.
   
   
5. A book You should read because it's mad, very clever and very well written, the entire series is so easy to consume.
   
   
6. An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping - ¬_¬ damn you americans and you awesome cheap amazon items.
   
   
7. Something related to cats My playing sounds like a wailing cat
   
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it :)
   
   
9. A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. If i have to explain this one to anyone here...
   
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. I'll be able to hide away int he deepest woods behind all my defences and grow food to survive no matter what the climate.
    
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. I daresay there's nothing I can link for this one as it's not a physical item.
    
    
12. One of those pesky Add-On items Screw you add on items!
    
    
13. The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item I can't imagine the freedom one could gainwith a 3d printer to hand. For myself i could print bits and bobs and crochet hooks and. jeeze what can't you do with a 3d printer? Plus i could pretend i'm in a time dilation in star trek.
    
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. Hehe
    
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball
    
    
16. [Something that smells wonderful.](http://www.amazon.co.uk/F1043-
    amp-Golden-Curry-Mild-Hot/dp/B003OMMUKE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=7ROEFRHQDCZ&coliid=I1XPSYGUO07V8E) Best ever
    
    
17. SFW Toy choochoo!
    
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school :)
    
    
19. Something related to your current obsession bwhahaha, it's not for real floristry!
    
    
20. Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it - It's IRN BRU FOR A SODA STREAM!!!! ZOMG!!!! Irn Bru is one of only 3 world wide to unseat Coke Cola as the number 1 drink
    
    ----
    
    Oregan
    
    fear cuts deeper than swords

It depends on how long you plan to age.

The gold standard, is solid premium cork and waxed sealed tops . The normal wax blend is 50% by weight each Crayola crayons of some color (has to be Crayola, cheap ones don't hold up the same) and 50% low temperature hot glue sticks. You DO NOT want all purpose, the glue is made differently and doesn't work as well, you want ones that are only good for low temp guns.

This can get kind of expensive if you're doing a lot of them, plus synthetics are easier to work with than natural cork.

That said...we aren't exactly talking about breaking the bank...if you can't afford about a buck a bottle for corks and wax then either you're making too much mead, or you should find someone to brew with.

I personally use a happy medium for most of my brews. I carboy age everything for 12-24 months rather than bottle age and then I bottle using the nomacorc synthetic corks that are good for 5 years. I like the fact that they are easy to work with.

Alumilite epoxy, mid range drying time is fine depending on how even a temperature you keep your area of work.

Amazon link for purchase

The reason I say use this is because then you can tint it much easier with readily available tints. Also on amazon. Make sure to drill sideways through the table so you have resin “dowels” that join into the wood. Just to help keep it together.

Plus alumilite sands easier and can be polished easier. But there might be better materials for that someone could point you to

Somebody recommended Aleenes Tacky craft glue to me one time and it is a great light-duty, all-purpose, non-toxic, easy cleanup household glue. I’ve been using the same bottle for maybe three years now and not only has the items I used it on held up (without exception), the open glue bottle with the supplied cap on the tip has not clogged up or solidified while stored in my attached garage that experiences very hot and pretty cold (but not freezing) temperatures. Tacky enough to instantly hold light items w/o clamping. Can’t recommend it enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Original-Tacky-Glue-16-Ounce/dp/B0084DC3KA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1517663410&sr=8-8&keywords=tacky+glue

I've considered doing an experiment with glitter glue pens like these but I'm predicting that I would have better results if the glitter wasn't that normal metalic reflective type. Is there such a thing as non-reflective glitter? Or even a guide to making my own glitter? I predict that it would be easy to create phenomenal photogrammetry models if you could master creating non-reflective glitter glue with multiple colors.

Another idea I haven't gotten around to trying is to use a projector to display an image like this containing pseudo-random colored pixel patterns on objects with no discernible textures. The trick would be to have enough light to take quality images, while still having a room dark enough to be able to see the projected light.

If you work with XPS a lot, a hot-wire table is a big convenience. It's certainly not a requirement though.

Really though, all you need is the 'obvious' stuff. A straight edge of some sort and a utility knife is sufficient for most cuts. The same knife will work for whatever other carving you'll be doing. Beyond that, the rocks and wire brushes others have mentioned are good for adding texture.

A couple small, cheap things I find handy:

• Pins - These are handy for holding things together while glue dries. I also use them as temporary feet to keep a piece off the ground while paint dries. Being able to paint all sides at once is a huge time saver.
  
• Sand paper - This is handy for smoothing off edges when you want a more rounded look. I use a sanding sponge. It's convenient, but not worth the trouble if you already have sand paper laying around. Also, sanding makes a huge mess. Do it outside and cover your mouth/nose.
  
• Acetone / Nail Polish Remover - This stuff melts foam quickly. You can brush on small amounts to create an acid effect or give stones a weathered, 'monument valley' look. I don't use it terribly often, but at 99 cent a bottle, it's nice to have.
  
• Clear school glue - Handy for small water/slime/etc effects. It's not as good as the 'real' fake water they sell at hobby shops, but it's dramatically cheaper, and much easier to use. It even comes in a couple colors. I wouldn't create a river with it, but it's handy for filling cauldrons and such.

The Yi cameras are really very good for the money. The Yi Lite gets great reviews and it's cheap, and you can use all the standard GoPro mounts, so you can use some Sugru to custom implant a GoPro mount on the face of your helmet. You can also use your general 3M tape to stick the mounts on nicely as well.

I googled this stuff pretty fast and found:

> hirschkleber

> "temporary glue" [barge]

(this took a little googling, but I see that the taurine-free Barge comes off pretty easily with acetone)

> "permanent glue" [renia]

Thanks, looking forward to the other answers later today.



>

Zip ties are generally one size fits all. How young of a boy are we talking about?

Also, making this is about as easy of a craft project as there is. You need probably 100 stones, some E-6000, and a wax tipped application tool. You put a small dot of glue on, then push the stone on, and repeat until finished. Don't worry too much if it looks a little funny close up, it'll look great on the dance floor under the lights.

Okeydoke! Here's the ones I bought. They have a bunch of different colour choices (vitally important when one is sewing/worbla-forming!)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ2X65P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went to Amazon and searched for "silicone" in my order history to find that link for ya. Boy howdy, I've bought a lot of silicone crafty items over the years! If you don't already have something like these, you might dig them as well. I use these as a gluing workspace, but I would imagine they might be nice to "worbla" on as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DZVRJBZ/ref=dp_cerb_3

I use a combination of techniques. 3D printed dungeon tiles, dry erase flip mat and tiles. If there is a nice pre-existing gridded map I want to use then I will print it at home.

I use a relatively cheap Ink Jet printer and I added a "continuous ink supply" system (CISS) purchased off eBay. It has paid for itself many times over.

I print the maps full size on many letter sized sheets. Trim the edges as necessary using a ruler and utility knife or something like This.

Next I will use small pieces of Post-It tape to hold the pieces together from the front side.

Finally, I flip the whole thing over and use packing tape along the seams on the back of the map. Then the Post-it tape can be easily removed without tearing up the map or messing with the images at all. You can follow-up by running a glue pen inside the overlap from the top of the map if you wish.

It sounds like a lot of work, but I can generally do a map that spans 8 pages in about 30 min from PC to finished paper map. It's much cheaper then printing at a print shop. After 2 or 3 maps the CISS and supplies pay for themselves. I try to reserve this for larger areas or maps that might be reusable.

Many map makers on Patreon also make modular systems, like forests, cities, etc. I print these out and glue them to 8" x 8" pieces of chipboard or cereal box. They can go together any way you want.

If you want to do that, unscrew the screw, clean the rust off, and coat it with a light coat of resin. I would recommend something like https://www.amazon.com/Miraclekoo-Ultraviolet-Sunlight-Activated-Jewelry/dp/B07KK37R42 and a UV light. This would allow very light coats, quickly cured with a cheap UV flashlight. But it is cheaper and better to get a stainless steel M4 0.7 4mm or 5mm pan head screw at a local hardware store.

Books. Seriously. Especially since you mentioned you want them to learn.


Jigsaw Puzzles are also a good choice. Just make sure the books/puzzles you get are age appropriate (ie. don't get a Harry Potter book or a 1000pc puzzle).

If you ARE getting a jigsaw puzzle find some thing interesting that they can frame and hang in their room(s) once finished. Amazon, Micheles,etc sells glue that is meant specifically for gluing down puzzles after they are done (example; note that this is an example). On the same note there are websites/services that allow you to upload your own pic and they will turn it in to a puzzle (example; again I have not used this site/service, I link to it as an example). The cost of a custom puzzle is ~$25+.

Loud whistle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FOJRF64/

Heavy duty velcro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O6T2ZS

Sugru throttle nub - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

I liked the recent post with the bicycle bell mod, really anything to enhance safety, especially in NYC, where jaywalkers cross roads diagonally with their heads buried in their phones and then proceed to do the "evade me" shimmy when they finally see you coming.

I use it sparingly, 120 dB is on the human pain threshold for hearing, so it's quite jarring. A quick toot toot tends to resolve most antsy situations, but a nice sustained hard whistle can even help you be heard from inside yellow cabs.

Pic of the broken part? Used is definitely the best option, but could the broken part be put back on? Little super glue? Depending if there is a lever you can put some Sugru on it as a nice grip that won't cut your finger.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

This stuff is ideal for applications like these.
SUGRU

If you're after a cheap and dirty fix:

1. Camera tether stuck to top of headlamp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sametop-Adhesive-Tethers-Compatible-Session/dp/B01BTRTFH6/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=camera+tether&qid=1571435406&sr=8-8
   
2. Sugru around the edge of the tether to reinforce the bond https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=sugru+black&qid=1571435550&sr=8-6
   
3. Strong zip tie through the tether and around the middle section of the handlebars, it's then supported above and by the original mount.
   
   Got the idea from this video (which explains it a bit better): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ2LPpbiZXc

I love these bottles to fill caps... https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Applicator-Projects-Quilling-Painting/dp/B0799BZKGZ/ref=pd_bap_m_rp_9/140-3853068-8695403?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0799BZKGZ&pd_rd_r=917b4095-cad4-4936-9598-f8f10a0def02&pd_rd_w=qLbNn&pd_rd_wg=05QQb&pf_rd_p=fad01225-121a-4a4a-bbb6-5a41829a616e&pf_rd_r=H1V2WAPMC9R66JJ5P6JZ&psc=1&refRID=H1V2WAPMC9R66JJ5P6JZ

Are you looking for those small bottles to squeeze oil out of?

If so, this is what I use and they work great.

GoPro Hero 5 is only $250. Grab some Sugru and attach to the chin of your helmet.

It's just to contain the bleed through of the glue. Once the front is dry, I'll glue the backside eventually and probably use wax paper to contain the bleed.

Here's the glue I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/SunsOut-PG8201-Sunsout-Puzzle-Preserver/dp/B0006O8IFY. It comes with a brush on the top. It was on the puzzle warehouse website. Since I might make a hobby out of this, when this glue runs out, I might buy the modpodge as that appears the most popular.

Huh, I never knew about that. Yep, you're right.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8

Not sure if this is the good kind or not. Just did a quick google search

Just use silicone self-fusing tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWRO9MY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or use liquid tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTW-400-Liquid-4-Ounce/dp/B002CC05EA/ref=pd_sim_328_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=413CdGG5uqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR82%2C160_&refRID=FY2E02TWCMGTEJPJYZ0K

or even Sugru (probably the best but most expensive option):
https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-SBLK3-Black/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465690927&sr=1-1&keywords=sugru

Loctite Glass Glue 2-Gram Tube (233841) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PSBBM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XmFDAbE43VH01

Would probably be able to find this at your local hardware store as well

What's the board game? My choice of adhesive would be a high quality "archival" acid free/neutral ph glue. Something like this adhesive. I have not used this glue, but it gets good reviews. I would use it sparingly as a reviewer suggests. I would not use rubber cement, as that has been known to attack plastics. And many common white glues would wrinkle the paper.

A blob of Sugru might do the job https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ

this stuff :)

If you still have the other section, I would get some Loctite Glass Glue and use that.

You can polish the blade with mothers mag polish or somthing simular, and you can patch the handle with sugru

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8
I would try this but I'm not speaking for experience. It claims to be heat and water resistant.

https://amzn.com/B01BFE0KNQ

When mounting to curvy helmets, just get some of this and do this.

What about Sugru?

Not really, about $10 for a 3 pack or $20 for an 8 pack

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B00EU7DBNM/

The frayed wire is one of the standard use cases for this stuff.

http://amzn.com/B000PSBBM8

maybe a tiny bit of black sharpie and then some glass glue and call it a day?

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Glass-Glue-2-Gram-233841/dp/B000PSBBM8/

or, if you are feeling crazy, try and get the crack to continue around the edge of the screen so it more closely matches the known issue and get it replaced.

Sugru that shit back together! Cheaper than getting a new bong.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-SBLK3-Black/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473193684&sr=8-3&keywords=sugru

Shit is fucking magic, I had a similar thing happen to an ash catcher.

http://i.imgur.com/fSZDR9S.jpg

Works great.