Reddit mentions: The best art knives & blades

Yeah you're desk would probably work just fine. It shouldn't make a huge mess, it's not like you're using a power sander haha.

The CLU is just extremely hard to clean off copper, as in it bonds to it. You end up having to use some sort of abrasive to really get it off. With a lapped IHS, or lapped block, you'd probably end up having to "relap" it with some higher grit sandpapers (800+) to return to a clean copper finish.

You can certainly lap the H80 and GPU blocks, but I would take them off and check them with a nice straight edge first. I would also only use the Gelid on those coolers, the H80 and GPU blocks. It will be much easier to clean if future removal is required and Gelid is some highly rated stuff already.

I would seriously recommend using the knife/razor method to remove the IHS. Like the saying it's "so easy, a caveman could do it" lol. Buy an X-ACTO #2 knife handle and their #26 whittling blade. Or one of their kits that includes those since you'd get a lot more for your money if you had other uses. The #26 blade is the perfect length/width that you can easily judge how deep it's slicing through the glue, and long enough that you can hold it along the entire length of one side of the IHS after you cut through the corners.

Here's some crappy paint pics that should help explain the process:

Part 1 - http://i.imgur.com/MvYMYjL.png

Part 2 - http://i.imgur.com/J4Vc3C9.png

The reason I'm recommending the X-ACTO setup so highly is you have much greater control with the size of that blade attached to a real handle. Whereas if you used the typical loose razor blade like this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GWfZ_4BQK7s/hqdefault.jpg

or this:

http://s19.postimg.org/zco5sqnsj/image.jpg

is harder to control, harder on the fingers, and you risk using too much force and pushing through the glue too far. The X-ACTO handle eliminates this imo.

This image really helps illustrate how much glue can be on there, and where the die/transistors are in relation to everything. So use that as a clue when you start your cuts. Like I previously said, the size (width of the cutting edge to non-cutting edge) of the #26 X-ACTO blade helps with visualizing how deep your cuts are getting.

http://i.imgur.com/6or5ATh.jpg?1

Now if this sounds complicated or risky, please let me assure you it's not that difficult. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible with my explanation to help ease your concern. Using the method I described I had the IHS off in less than 5 min and I had never delidded anything before. The X-ACTO knife is so sharp. I mean it might feel like it takes more force than you'd think to cut through, but once it's off you'll be like "wow, that was easy."

This is the Liquid Electrical tape I used on the transistors after delid:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85120-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B003ERU04W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519375

This is a solid X-ACTO kit that has the blade and handle I'm recommending, but you could buy them separately for cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-X5028-Xacto-Do-It-Yourself-Set/dp/B000HGMA7I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519412

Sandpaper you can get anywhere. I'd recommend the 3M Wetordry stuff. They're usually sold in packs with different grit ranges and sheet quantity. Maybe you could get single 9x11" sheets of individual grits at an auto parts store or something though.

If he is a big warhammer collector and painter then it may not be a good idea to get him a random model as he may already have it or dislike that particular model. I'd suggest that you consider putting several smaller things in a box for him.

Here are some alternatives to an individual model that he may enjoy:

-Primers and paints (you can buy the GW brand paints, but I'd recommend Vallejo). A mix of metal paints (copper, brass, gold, silver, steel) would be a nice gift. And every painter always needs black so that would be a nice thing to add on.

-Paint brushes. A few very fine brushes would be helpful. Look for sizes 0, 5/0 and 10/0.

-If you know that he airbrushes you could buy him a bottle of 70 isp alcohol to add to any grouping of things you give him.

-Warhammer books are always a nice gift. If you can tell us if he collects Warhammer 40K (scifi) or Warhammer (medieval aesthetic) we can recommend books.

-Something like this would be a nice gift for him if he puts together a lot of models: http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415106833&sr=8-2&keywords=xacto

-A warhammer themed t shirt (you can find them on etsy and ebay).

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

Looks like a solid start to me! I would recommend not fully assembling your models before you paint them, some places can be hard to reach when fully assembled.

1. The army painter range of brushes is a solid starting point, I think they have a starter pack with a few essential brushes. Get a tub of brush cleaner and clean your brushes throughout your time painting, I like to clean them when I change colors. This will keep in good condition and extend their life!
   
   
2. I like the GW plastic glue, it melts the pieces together for a strong connection! Super glue is also good and if you need to change a model up you can freeze them and they will snap apart.
   
   
3. I like the GW brand primers, though they are expensive! I've used army painter before and had mixed results, some good some terrible.
   
   
4. I do not have any experience with sealers.
   
   Necessary Hobby Items
   
   

• Brush Cleaner
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Cutters
  
• Pin Drill
  
• Desk Lamp W/ Magnifier
  
  
  

I'd love to hear what other folks are using. Ideally, I'd like a case that can fit a total of 16-20 fountain pens, but hopefully with a smaller footprint. The 96-slot Global Art Leather Pencil Case is almost perfect... but they changed their design since I bought mine and they now have only one loop per slot instead of two. (I utilize both loops for smaller things, like pencil leads, wax stamps, etc.)

My current case contains the following items, but as you can see I'm just about out of room!

---

Side A: Pencils

---

1. rOtring 800 in .05
   
2. Uni Kuru Toga Pipe Slide in .05 with red nano dia lead
   
3. Uni Kuru Toga Pipe Slide in .05 with blue nano dia lead
   
4. Uni Kuru Toga Pipe Slide in .05 with green nano dia lead
   
5. Erasers: refills for the General Pencil Co. Factis BM-2 mechanical erasers, plus some for the Kuru Toga
   
6. A pair of General Pencil Co. Factis BM-2 mechanical erasers (a nice, thin eraser capable of area or detail erasing)
   
7. Extra red, green, and blue Uni nano dia lead
   
8. Extra black Uni nano dia lead (in a spare Pentel container)
   
9. Alumicolor 6" engineer pocket scale, standard (used as a straight edge)
   
10. Heavy-duty X-Acto Gripster knife
    
    ---
    
    Side B: Fountain Pens
    
    ---
    
    
11. Noodler's Neponset Ebonite Flex in black, filled with Noodler's Apache Sunset
    
12. TWSBI Eco in black, filled with Jacques Herbin 1670 Emerald of Chivor
    
13. Jinhao X750 in Black Night Sky, filled with Jacques Herbin 1670 Stormy Grey
    
14. Jinhao X750 in Lava Red, filled with Diamine Sherwood Green
    
15. Jinhao X750 in Black Frost Black, filled with Rohrer & Klingner Alt-Goldgrun
    
16. Jinhao X750 in Black Night Sky, filled with Noodler's Blue Ghost
    
17. An inexpensive atomizer (used for fine control when creating ink splatters)
    
18. Pilot Plumix, filled with Noodler's Firefly
    
19. Noodler's Charlie (not sold; comes free with 4.5 oz Noodler's inks), filled with Pilot Iroshizuku Yama-Budo

I'm very DIY, so I quite literally made stamps by hand two ways...

1. The Silhouette Mint They have different sizes that you can pick from and this is smaller than what you're looking for, but I used it for my RSVPs and I felt like it was huge (what I was looking for, but still huge)
   
   
2. For a different stamp that I wanted to be in white ink (something that isn't an option for the mint) I decided to hand carve, and it ended up being a lot easier than I thought it would be. I used this and carved with this I added a sticky backing that can be reused for other stamps to this and I was overall really happy with how it all turned out.
   
   
   EDIT: Posting picture of what I stamped with my hand carved stamp for reference.

If you have any craft stores that sells oil paint, they might have coupons, or start ordering on amazon now!

• you're gonna need a canvases, I recommend 16x20, since they are cheap but fit the size needed for landscape, again, craft stores may sell them in packs of 5 for $20 or 25 AUD. Or https://www.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Quality-Stretched/dp/B01KOND892/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492312761&sr=8-2&keywords=16x20+canvas
  
  
  
• liquid white, a 236ml cam should be good, I doubt any craft store other than hobby lobby, (but that's an American store)has it. https://www.bobross.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=R6207
  
  
  
• 200ml Windsor newton paint is the best for your buck, it's uncommon for craft stores to have it, I would get sap green, titanium white, phthalo blue, van dyke brown, cadmium yellow. https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Winton-200-Milliliter-Titanium/dp/B0044JPSDW/ref=sr_1_1_sns?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313012&sr=8-1
  
  
  
  
• For the paint brushes, it would be extremely expensive buying 10 brushes, so maybe your local hardware store has horse hair brushes, they should be $8 USD each (10 AUD) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Purdy-1-in-XL-Dale-Angled-Sash-Brush-144080310/100386391
  
  
• And amazon has fanbrushes and knifes. https://www.amazon.com/Martin-F-Weber-Number6-Blender/dp/B0027AEDLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313813&sr=8-1&keywords=6+fan+brush
  
  
• Your crafts store may these for less. https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-J-23-Painting-Knife/dp/B0009RNUR4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492313993&sr=8-4&keywords=Painting+knife
  
  
  
• Paint thinner, you're local hardware store should have it in the painting section, buy at least 2 of the one gallon jugs (3.78 litres x2)
  Then while you're there too, you should get a few bucket to put it in.
  
  And you're pretty much set, if you have any questions let me know.

Howdy! I just got my printer today so this is fresh in my mind. I watched a lot of videos to understand what I needed and how to get everything set up. I would recommend checking out the 3DPrintFarm YouTube channel. There's a lot of great info in there. Here's a list of everything I picked up along with links to Amazon for the items I got off there. Hope it helps!

• Cutting Mat
  
  
• Microfiber Cloth for cleaning vat
  
  
• Activated Charcoal Mat to combine with printed bracket for better ventilation
  
  
• Link to bracket
  
  
• Paper Filter with Metal Mesh (Paint Strainer)
  
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
  
• Funnel
  
  
• Metal Scraper
  
  
• Xacto Knife
  
  
• Sprayway Glass Cleaner
  
  
• Glasses Wipes to wipe bottom of vat
  
  
• Pickle Strainer
  
  
• Rubber Squeegees
  
  
• Sandpaper
  
  
• Precision pliers
  
  
• UV lamp for curing
  
  
• Toothbrush to clean prints in alcohol

I would not recommend the citadel tools. They are quite expensive compared to other brands. I would recommend something like this. The mold line remover I think is unnecessary. You can just as easily remove mold lines using the back edge of a hobby knife blade. the file set might be nice to have, but again, there are cheaper options.

Unless you're really committed to spending your money at that one store or whatever, I recommend checking hobby lobby (or whatever your local equivalent is) for tools and equipment. Don't buy cheap, but don't buy expensive, either. haha.

• Basswood is a great material to start with, you can get boxes of practice blanks fairly cheaply online. Poplar works pretty well too and is available at most home improvement stores. Pine is a pretty horrible wood to start with because the grain is loose, inconsistent and prone to splitting. Harder woods like oak will also be difficult to start with.
  
  
• You can start cheap with an x-axto assortment like this, or get a carving knife set like this one.
  
  
• Things like Gouges Chisels and Rasps will be necessary if you want to move on to larger pieces, but good ones are a bigger investment.
  
  
• Spend some time in /r/woodcarving to get a feel for projects you might want to explore on your own.
  
  
• Hit up youtube for "Wood carving basics" or "Whittling basics" You might also look into "Chip Carving" if you want to do surface designs.
  

Yeah, that set is pretty much just for stripped screws. I get a lot of “DIY” repair guys that being me their phones when they can’t get them open anymore.

You can get away with the Essential Electronics Tool Kit, but I invested in the Mako Driver Kit since I also work on PCs, Androids, Consoles, you name it.

I will say, the Jimmy in the essential kit is total garbo and simply recommend grabbing some sort of exacto knife with a grip. Works for both opening phones and safely removing the wiring when switching out hardware on phones. Something like this.

This is the best answer, Olfa is pretty much the standard for good quality snap off blade knives, tajima is maybe slightly higher quality tools but blades are the same. If you are cutting heavy thick stuff i recommend the type with a thumbscrew for blade lock instead of the faster slide lock style as they sometimes can come unlocked when you are pressing down hard.

I use this one for light duty precise cutting: OLFA 5019 SVR-2 9mm Stainless Steel Auto-Lock Utility Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O87O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qqthyb2DSX0Q5

This is what i have for heavier stuff: New Olfa Limited NL LTD-07 Paper cutter knife from Japan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017M6QSI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_otthyb8RK59QF

Both are excellent and the blades are noticeably sharper and last longer than any other knife like this ive found.

So depending on the type of carving you want to do. Like this is a good knife for spoons like wood spoons or salad tongs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00343VCCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1420451007&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

some of these no matter what. I wish idid when I started. So many wasted bandages. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IY0IS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1420451150&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The exacto set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2UD/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420451349&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 is a good starting set. Eventually if you like carving you might upgrade to something like this. I have this kit. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020LOY7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?qid=1420451227&sr=8-28&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6


And that's it.

1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.
   
   2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.
   
   
   3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.
   
   4)Use the Gundam markers for lining
   
   
2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).
   
   6)Finally finish with a top coat
   
   Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).
   
   So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
   

Instead of using sheet protectors, get a roll of 3 millimeter mylar/duralar. I got the idea from 3mil_mylar, he does some good stuff. Over all, the stuff is cheaper than buying sheet protectors, and allow for much bigger stencils. I got mine from a seller on amazon here. It also works great with a heat based stencil cutter. As for adhering the stencil to the shirt, just use spray adhesive on the back of the stencil, wait for it to get dry and tacky, and then put the stencil on the shirt and cover your edges. Adhesive spray directly on the shirt will get icky and may not come off.

Well, 150 but this surgical craft knife is brilliant

Thanks! I have a bunch of large thick sheets of styrofoam and a good selection of small Xacto knives (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB).

I can't give any tips other than just make sure you plan ahead. In my case I went for a very damaged and abandoned look, so any cutting mistakes would only make it better.

Near the end my dad made an electric styrofoam cutter for me (Basically a wire in between a coping saw with a current going through it). This made cutting thin bits significantly easier and faster, but most of what you see here has been done with the knifes.

I also advice to go with ISO 90 type Styrofoam, as this is much more compressed and will likely look a lot better. I used ISO 60 Styrofoam here, as I could not find 90.

Just take your time, be patient, and it will all work out!

I have had a really good experience with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J21POXK/ref=twister_B06WGRL4B3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. It is easy to use for a long time and the cap does not slip off.

> Where would i go to find special xacto knife endings and blades?

Amazon. The chisel blade is the only xacto style blade I use on kits now, and are slightly too wide to fit in opening of the No1 xacto handle so I have them in a Fiskar handle. The Olfa blades I use cannot be used on xacto handles.

This is the type of blade I use. They can be used on the Tamiya knife, or this NT cutter knife. Olfa has the same

White vinegar and a single razor blade. Also non-ammonia glass cleaner works well. We use razor blades like these for scraping off water spots, poop, sticker residue, food, you name it. Definitely use with a glass cleaner though, as scraping a dry razor blade on dry glass is a sound worse than nails on a chalk board.

-Jen

If that's the case, it's gotta be the blade. I've been using these, and they work great.

Man i would have bought it just for the HI-Tec c Ink cartridge. It's was too expensive for me at the time.

You might want to consider this. I bought it for my brother but the blades are far better than X acto blade and the cap actually stays on plus the grip and quality of the holder is far above any of the x acto offerings.

I've been playing it for about 5 years now? I really do love the game and I know i'll be playing it for a long time to come. Even if I didn't, I would still love to take on the project, just for the sake of getting into woodworking.

I was looking at this kit on amazon, I thought I would be able to very carefully use a chisel on most of the board, but I'm just not sure. It does say it comes with routers, but I don't see if they specify the size.

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5175-Deluxe-Woodcarving-Set/dp/B00004Z2UD/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407618296&sr=1-1&keywords=woodworking+kit

Would you mind linking me to a router and template? I was googling around earlier and could not really figure out if i was looking at the right thing.

Is something like this what you're talking about?

My only gripe so far is that I usually trace my stencils with a fine tip pen but the ink would smear on this stuff. However, the ink holds if I use a sharpie. I've been told that you can buy duralar that has a matte finish and works better to draw on. I also just ordered a stencil cutting tool which is recommended for Duralar, so hopefully it works well because I have some heavy detail designs I want to cut out but I really don't want to deal with the hours of cutting involved.

Amazon has it.

https://www.amazon.com/Olfa-Limited-LTD-07-Paper-cutter/dp/B017M6QSI2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2UB?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title&th=1

I used a starter set of carving chisels [like these] (http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Set-of-5-Tools/dp/B001UYQPNG/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1411898341&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=starter+carving+chisel+blades) but not those exact ones, and then this [Xacto carving set] (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5175-Deluxe-Woodcarving-Set/dp/B00004Z2UD) when I got to the finer details.

Xacto carving kit

Xacto X5175 Deluxe Woodcarving Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z2UD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XDX2Cb61AZ2TC

That version comes with a "rear blade release" tool.

Unsure how to use it, but that's what my limited google search found.

http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK