(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best art paints

I bought a Synth too, but haven't used it yet - not pictured here, but the stem could definitely use work (hoping the Synth will help with that).

Honestly, I do a lot of DIY stuff and usually don't have trouble finding tutorials that I can halfway-decently follow (usually thanks to good posters). Unfortunately, that hasn't been the case for keycap molding/casting - it's pretty hard to find detailed/informative guides out there.

The best resource I've found isn't keycap related at all, it's this YouTube series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6q0fd3ileWLwTQ6pOUb8isS4BYLjkNhH

Let me know what you think!

As far as the resin goes, I read a post somewhere that said it's best to get it from a distributor because the majority of stuff on Amazon is bunk... That being said, I'm an Amazon fiend and just wanted enough material to get started.

I bought this set for the mold and resin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QCHVC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this for coloring the resin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZH0SFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure neither are the optimal choice, but they should be enough to get you started. From what I've gathered, information/secrets are held pretty close to the chest around here... So if you learn anything during your exploratory process, help a brother out! I'll try to do the same if you have any questions. :)

Good luck!

Do you have a specific budget? The following brands have always been good for me. These are all acrylic paints:




* Golden (duh...this is the creme de la creme of acrylics. I've only used their fluids but they're most well known for their heavy body.) This set is a solid option, but this is even better





* Galería (best student grade I've worked with) This kit includes paint, brushes, and canvas paper and so may be an ideal option for a beginner.





* DecoArt 1-Ounce Traditions Acrylic Palette Sampler -- great professional grade paint for the price and a solid color selection and two mediums -- one which slows the dry time and a glaze.





Finally, although they aren't my preference, many people ADORE Liquitex Basics and it is used by even professional artists. With that in mind the Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint-It! Kit provides a great color selection with a larger white tube (definitely needed, I go through white like crazy, most artists do), paint brushes, a palette knife, a palette, and a canvas board. This is definitely a solid option and really a bargain.





I paint almost exclusively with round and filbert brushes (I like Royal & Langnickel's Zen line), but a good, low cost variety pack with flats, filbert and round would be a good option.

I am in the middle of doing this, and plan to do a tutorial when I am through. I have a few tips.

• Because glass is so smooth, paint your first layer of paint using a "glass medium" paint like this. This step is a pain in the ass, I admit, but I think it makes a big difference. This is a paint especially for glass, and should not scratch off. My concern was that one of the boards would get nicked, and the paint could come off and look like a scratch. The glass medium should help avoid that and will help your chalkboard paint stick. The glass medium needs to "cure" to be effective. To cure your glass you either: (A) bake smaller glass panes in your oven based on the instructions on the bottle, I reccomend putting them on a cookie sheet or (B) Let them cure for 21 days (omg, so long, I know!) I have 3 huge glass frames sitting in our dining room with 13 more days to go.
  
  
• I am concerned about the glass breaking during transport, especially for the larger pieces. You can pack them as best as possible, but they still may break. I recommend covering the back of the glass, the side you won't see, with painters tape or masking tape. This way if the glass does break, you don't wind up with shattered glass everywhere.
  
  
• Use a foam brush or a foam roller for your chalkboard paint. I think this is the best chalkboard paint. I've used others in the past, and this is far superior in terms of the finish, coverage, and texture. The spray paint versions flake off easily and don't always come out smooth because it can drip sooo easily.
  
  
• Also regarding breaking, you can add some padding to the back of the glass by just putting a slice of cardboard the size of the glass behind it.
  
  
• Chalkboard pens are the best! Don't use regular chalk to write, but you can use it to give your fresh chalkboard paint a more realistic look by rubbing chalk all over your painted glass, then "erasing" it with a dry cloth or chalk eraser.
  

Rubbing alcohol - I have no idea! I think it does break down the colours but USE IT GENTLY because you can bleed right through paper if you're not careful. My mom showed me how to do this when I was young and just learning how to use Prismacolours.

Generally when needing to fill something with solid colours I'll use a circular motion for even coverage rather than line-shaped strokes, but yeah, that's basically the idea.

Currently the lighting on the picture is kind of undefined - you have shadows underneath things, but light plays in strange ways and reflected / refracted light also does weird stuff. This tutorial kinda explains things better than I can: http://theartcenter.blogspot.se/2010/03/sam-nielson-painting-process.html - Basically, you want to think about where your primary light source is, how the material you're colouring will interact with that light, and then the shape of what you're colouring. Rimlight is the white around the edges of say, Lugia's wings.

I will recommend these watercolour sets because I LOVE them: http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365768&sr=8-1&keywords=pelikan+watercolours Used them for years. They're student grade but I love how they work. Make sure you're using sturdy paper!

I am using these watercolours currently: http://www.amazon.com/color-Kuretake-picture-letter-Unleashed/dp/B001MPA6W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365862&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+watercolours They're flipping fantastic, if not a bit more expensive.

LMK if you have more questions / need more clarification. :D

Hi there! I think Acrylic paints are a great starting point for anyone as they allow experimentation with layers and dry really quickly, in around 10-15mins actually! Here's a small list of starting equipment I think would be best:

• Set of basic acrylic paints containing at least the primary colours. This should be fairly cheap to pick up.
  
  
• A starter pack of half decent paintbrushes. Make sure they're of good quality as fraying brushes are a nightmare for detailing. There are some good sets on Amazon for around £10-£15.
  
  
• A pack painting boards or canvas. Painting on paper with acrylic causes it to warp and curl when it dries so boards or canvas are the best. You can get a pack of 5 quite cheaply.
  
  Other from those basic things there are a few other supplies needed which you may already have such as; jars or cups for water and a ceramic plate or plastic pallet for mixing the paints.
  
  I've included a few links to brushes and things below. Have fun and good luck my friend!
  
  Brushes
  Paints
  Boards

So this guy was the subject of lots of experimentation.

• This is my first time applying a full topcoat. I used two coats of Krylon clear matte acrylic from a spray can. Turned out pretty smooth, despite me not having a proper setup during application. It smudged up a few of my Gundam Marker panel lines, but nothing serious.
  
  
• I messed around with more metallic candy coating. I reckon my Tamiya Silver Chrome undercoat should've been applied in multiple thinner coats, rather than the single coat I brushed on. My brush strokes are pretty visible. :/
  
  
• Instead of lame foil stickers, I painted all the "lights" with Aurora glow-in-the-dark paint. The paint itself has a grainy, toothpasty texture that made it a bit difficult to apply precisely. Some very careful light sanding in between coats, and a topcoat of clear nail polish, and I think it turned out alright. The brightness of the green glow is pretty impressive in-person.
  
  
• I added a couple extra panel lines on the shield using my newly-acquired Tamiya scribing knife. They're a bit rough, but with some practice, I'm sure I could turn out some wicked panel lines on future builds.
  
  
• The radome snapped off one if the sub-arm's connector tabs, so I had to glue it on there permanently. Luckily, I grabbed the Ez Arms kit, so I have a spare backpack, in case I want to reconfigure it with different weaponry.
  
  Overall, super fun, solid build. I learned a lot working on this one.

1. I usually have decent experiences. I don't know, I haven't done much for it in awhile. But I know THIS year will be awesome 'cause my daughter is going to be dressed up and ready to go.
   
2. please let G0ATLY be safe this year. I always copy and paste. XD
   
3. This marker is on my Stuff I WANT list.
   
4. Uh, despite everything wrong with me, I'm a good mother, and I love my daughter like no other. <3 So there is that.

Brushes

Paints

The brushes cost about £5.48 for 5 assorted brushes and the paints, £14.73 for ten tubes.

The paint is pretty decent student quality, its quite versatile and is pretty much a bargain. I personally use it to paint (it what we used at school) and handles fantastically well for the price.

The brushes are good for the price, theyre not going to last forever, but they do handle well and are easy to control and to be honest I still have a few of them that I use, Once again pretty decent student quality.

If you're acrylic painting there isnt much more that you need. I'd probably start on cartridge paper just to get to grips with it before moving on to canvas (although they behave and feel slightly different on the different surfaces)

Just realized I forgot to log in on this one. Oops!

Anyway. I think I've selected some stuff.

Golden Professional 6 Piece Set

Golden Artists Colors Classic Theory Color Mixing

And these brushes, just because the ones she has are all the same size and look pathetic


The last thing I was thinking of getting was a palette. Is there any general recommendation on wet vs dry? I personally can't see a disadvantage with the idea of a palette that keeps the paint wet for you...but that's probably just the engineer in me.

Currently she uses cling wrap, so I feel like this is a good option.

Depending on how much an easel would cost she's currently using our coffee table. She's very careful, but, all the same, I feel like something better than a coffee table has to be nice?

Thanks for all the help thus far : )

Sure thing. Seems like the fading is unavoidable and getting it back to normal requires some DIY coloring. Here is what he said:

"Yes, unfortunately over time the color will fade a bit, as it is just a thin layer of airbrushed silicone on the surface.


You can "rejuvenate" the surface color yourself. The easiest way to touch up the paint is to buy this silicone glue


https://www.smooth-on.com/products/sil-poxy/


and then some silicone pigment like


https://www.amazon.com/Silc-Pig-Silicone-Pigment-9-Pack-Sampler/dp/B005ZH0SFU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1512237562&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=silc-pig&psc=1&smid=A19NVE4G6SOT2C


and then take a small dolop of the silicone glue and mix in a tiny amount of the silicone pigment. then take just tiniest amount of the mixture and rub it into the surface of the EZP. This won't really work very well for doing things like the veins, but it will allow you to rejuvenate the slight redness of the tip etc. with a lot of skill you can also get the veins back in, but it's super easy to use too much of the silicone glue which will leave really shiny patches, so I don't recommend trying to touch up the veins.


You'll notice the glue smells like vinegar, but don't worry, this smell disappears as soon as the glue is set and it is totally skin safe."

It may not be the colors you were aiming for, but I think it's still lovely! I recently got this set of colors on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDJKS6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

I haven't used all of the colors by any stretch yet, but they have worked in both UV and 2-part epoxy, and the fact that the listing said they could be used in either type was what was appealing to me (also the large range of colors). Otherwise previously for UV I was using a set and some individual colors from Miniature Sweet, but all of those were pretty opaque, so I liked that this new set could go translucent or opaque depending on what you wanted to make.

What kind of scope?

For a Newtonian, you can get those kinds of concrete forming tubes from places like Lowes and the Home Despot. They're just heavy cardboard, and last pretty well, but I'd definitely recommend painting it with something that will provide protection. Painting it flat black inside and/or flocking it is a good idea too. (I found a paint online, Black 2.0, which claims to be the flattest black paint available to the general public, except if your name happens to be Anish Kapoor). I bought some and it is pretty damn black. I ended up not using it to paint the inside of my scope, but I might use it on my 80mm refractor. Not cheap, but really, really black. Not Vanta Black level black, but as closes as you can buy.

Golden Open Acrylics are great - really strong pigment and slow-drying so you can continue blending colors and your palette won't dry out. They're recommended in some starter guides to alters. They're not super cheap, but the pigments are strong so a tube will last a long time.

One caution - some colors are better for color mixing than others. I got the "Landscape Colors" set and had a hard time mixing colors to match original art. Everything comes out muddy and grey. I'd suggest you get the Color Mixing Modern Theory set. It has the pigments they use as a foundation to get all the other colors.

I've been posting all my GITD Pops here and a lot of people have liked them. I use Art N'glow from Amazon and I've had a great experience with them all so far

The neutral paint leaves a clear/white coat and the fluorescent will be colored but will also glow of course. For reference: Te Ka, Scar with Flames, Custom Endgame Thor and I have a few more that you can check out on my page or whatever it's called for reddit lol

I hope that helps!

I was just looking at options last night for dupes, I own a pair of black Calvin Klein pumps
I’m thinking of customising. Angelus sells red paint
with a hardening agent specifically for repair of the soles of your heels (usually Louboutins). However. There are reviewers that say they have needed to use about 3 coats to create their dupes then put a high gloss coat finisher on that to protect the paint (which is highly recommended for prolonging the life of the paint). If you are interested still in that red sole without spending boatloads, it can be a helluva saver. Good luck!

If you're starting you could buy a set like this. I mixed the colours I needed from that kind of selection, and that works fine as long as you mix enough and paint all the pieces requiring that colour at once.

Using a wet pallet helps keep your paint from drying out or skinning over on you.

Definitely want to use a dull coat, I don't think any minis look good glossy.

Also, your best bet is to head over to /r/minipainting

Glue you can use zap a gap super glue for anything. Plastic, if it's the right type of plastic you can use plastic cement, but it has to be the right kind of plastic, PVC plastic for example doesn't bond with plastic cement, only with PVC glue.

You want acrylic paint, Vallejo, Reaper MSP are two good brands. Vallejo sells small paint sets that include military colors, in fact, here's a civil war paint set.

For paint brushes, you generally want a good quality paint brush, you can get a cheaper end sable brush from Rosemary Co. or you can get a brush that'll last you years from Raphael or Winsor and Newton Series 7. Personally, I like having a #1 and #2/0 paint brush for most work on figures. Winsor and Newton and Raphael brushes will run you about 15-20$ a piece, you pretty much only need two brushes, or you can get by with just a single 2/0 or 1 size, I did for a long time.

Grass you can get in little canisters, it's called static grass, gale force 9 and army painter both have a variety of static grass you can buy, it's fairly cheap and you get enough to last a long time. Army painter also sells grass tufts, think tall grass in little clumps to add more detail to the base.

If a near by place sells it, get a small set of [12 acrylics] (http://www.amazon.com/Reeves-Acrylic-Paints-Assorted-Color/dp/B00251IKQ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375862560&sr=8-1&keywords=12+acrylic), a small starter set of [paint brushes] (http://www.amazon.com/Princeton-Series-Brown-Handled-Brush/dp/B000H431OQ/ref=pd_sim_hg_54) and some small [canvas panels] (http://www.amazon.com/Canvas-panels-inch-pack-12/dp/B00251AWQ4/ref=pd_sim_hg_22) or a [deeper canvas] (http://www.amazon.com/Fredrix-5031-Stretched-Canvas-36-Inch/dp/B000Y3EST2/ref=pd_sim_ac_82) if you wish to hang them up . be sure to price check these near by, as a place near me sells canvases at a almost a third of that price

I personally found acrylics easier to get into. you can water them down to get a watercolor feel, or keep them thick for more of an oil's feel and are much more satisfying and easier to pick up then colored pencils. They also dry quickly. Then just get some cheap plastic plates to use for a pallet and set up anywhere you have space.

You have access to a $3500 3d printer, you can access some $7 bottle of miniature ink.

As for leeching, you ought to prime models for this very reason.

I agree, the years old white filament printed models don't compare to these, but the new, laser deposition ones made by what I think is the same mechanism as your models are superior insofar as what I can tell from the pictures.

Heroforge really has improved, but I guess it's too close to call with these photos given the various focus and washing issues.

I recently did the same thing! I know you said you were looking to invest a little more, but if you're looking for a relatively inexpensive set just to test the waters, I purchased this one on Amazon:
Pelikan Opaque Watercolor Paint Set, 24 Colors Plus Chinese White Tube (720862) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170ZSLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uFgtxbXGW3N97

I'd recommend! Have fun!

Here's the paint. Ouch, that's expensive right now! Honestly I'd recommend trying tape if you want a neater finish (though obviously you will need to find tape with very good reviews).

The Clarks look better than the Tieks (more classic looking and no toe cleavage). Clarks are built to be comfortable so you might be surprised. I think all three of your additional possible choices are also good choices. I am planning on wearing 4" heels. I know my feet will hurt eventually and I've accepted that once I've hit that point I'm just going to end up in these. Nobody says you cant have an extra pair of save my sole shoes for when your feet try to attack lol
but seriously if you love the tieks and its just the teal holding you back they make sole paint usually in red or black

Have you considered getting a plain piece of glass, tracing the borders onto the new glass and hand painting a new frame? Your mom would like it even more because you did it by hand, even if your painting is a little uneven. Use a sharpie or "china pencil" to trace the design, then something like this

https://www.amazon.com/FolkArt-Enamel-Ceramic-Assorted-Licorice/dp/B000BQ5H2E

to paint the "frame" onto the glass.

Alternatively, you could get some black poster board and cut out the squares where the pictures are, maybe using tracing paper to get the layout of the frame.

I used black, and a mixture of tangerine, white, yellow, and red for the orange. Look up sophiesophs ‘s youtube tutorial, helps a lot. Good luck with your custom!

Angelus Leather Paint 4 Oz Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196T916Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GLv1AbS7C4QKS

#1. Happy Cake Day!

#3. Book

#4. Eating Utensil

#5. Animal

#6. Purple

#7. A Game..all about the poker

#8. A Guilty Pleasure...I hate that I love her

#9. A Tool

#10. Something from my childhood...oh man is it

#11. An organizational item...a stretch but what/who's more organized than ants?!

#12. Hobby

#13. Nerdy/Geeky

#14. Something Natural

#15. Green

#16. Something I wear

#17. Funny

#19. Gardening

#20

Bonus

Thanks for this fun Contest!

maybe rethink your black. It's not Vanta black , but the fun disclosures and agreements made me believe it's something close. I'd take pictures but even my most non potato cameras can't capture it without a light box but here's an article

I personally use Raphael 8404 kolinsky sable brush, size 0 image, another. And I have been happy with it.

They have very pointy tip and quite big "body" (also known as paint reservoir) which keeps paint wet, so it does not dry onto bristles.

Key things with text painting for me have been to use very tip of the brush and have paint that flows easily. I use Vallejo black ink, but any other paint will work too when thinned enough. (thin your paints :) )

Thank you! Yea its all sealed. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1TQM2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is what I used. So far it has held up wonderfully!

I’m by no means an expert but the following is what I’ve done to re-touch Chanel Lambskin leather. I learned this method from a fellow Replady (thank you so much!)

My bag from a TS arrived to me with a scratch on it (color was missing). I didn’t want to go through the hassle of shipping it back to China, so I decided to fix the issue on my own. I bought Angelus leather paint from amazon here

To fix the scratch on the bag, I mixed one drop of Angelus paint and one drop of water. Then applied to the area using a small brush in a few layers. Apply, let dry a few minutes, and repeat until you’re happy with the result. :)

This was the type recommended to me. Haven't had the chance to use it yet, but their repainted glow Deku looked great with it.

[How about this?](https://www.etsy.com/listing/475736456/2-yards-glass-red-round-evil-eye-beads?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=2mm eyeball&ref=sr_gallery_1)

or

this?

I think it's going to be really difficult to find any eyeball beads that small, but you could always buy tiny (2mm or so? Would that be small enough?) white rounds, and then buy porcelain markers in red, black, and the desired iris color to draw your own. It would probably be significantly cheaper, if not faster, to DIY it than it would be to search the world (IMHO).

Fire Mountain is a good plans to get undrilled rounds, or you could go to Joann's or another craft store, I think.

You can get more solid colors by mixing with an opaque dye like the white in smooth-on's "so strong" dyes for a base color.

I'm sure you could figure something out with spray paint and careful masking.

I've really enjoyed using Golden Open acrylics lately. Golden has a great reputation for their acrylic and their open line is made to stay wet longer. One of the big issues some people have with acrylic is how quickly it dries making it difficult to mix on the panel/canvas. The open acrylics stay wet for hours.

This is pretty good:

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Amer-Civil-Paint-17ml/dp/B000PHCTO8

I just started so I'm no expert however this is what I just purchased to get into it. These were recommended from an article I read somewhere. I'm happy with the quality for just starting out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFGW2ON/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXE6R99/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hi. i'm not a fan of granite counter tops. for me it's either carrera marble or soapstone. neither of which i have. for your counter top, you could maybe fill and coat the top with this. it might heal it. it comes in different sizes, and is seriously easy to make, and thicker than any product i‘ve ever used. you would not be able to cut on this product.


https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Tech-Envirotex-Finish-Gallon/dp/B001E1TQM2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1467243163&sr=8-6&keywords=pour+on+high+gloss+finish

edit; just found this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S9R8E8Q?psc=1

Here is the dyes I recommend

So Strong Dyes

I'm not sure I get what you're going for, but if you don't want the cloth texture, you could coat it in epoxy or Epsilon Pro (also an epoxy but made for top coating). Then you can sand it smooth and use whatever kind of paint you want.

If you want the cloth texture, wrap it really tight so there's no slack, then spray paint should be ok. I've used Krylon and Rustoleum on pants before. It's not comfortable, but it works.

If you absolutely need paint on cloth, look for Ceramcoat acrylic paint and textile medium. I put that through an airbrush for my Borderlands clothes: https://i.imgur.com/k1T6wH0.jpg

Epsilon: https://www.smooth-on.com/products/epsilon-pro/

Ceramcoat: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Creative-Ceramcoat-Assorted-PROMOADA3/dp/B01MFGW2ON/ref=sr_1_1?crid=28JSBMUUFA61G&keywords=ceramcoat+acrylic+paint&qid=1549926023&s=gateway&sprefix=ceramcoat%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-1

Textile Medium: https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Creative-Ceramcoat-Acrylic-8-Ounce/dp/B07BZV689K/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=ceramcoat+acrylic+paint+textile&qid=1549926057&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Here's a set: Acrylic Paint Set - Artist Quality Paints for Painting Canvas, Wood, Clay, Fabric, Nail Art, Ceramic & Crafts - 12 x 12ml Heavy Body Colors - Rich Pigments - Professional Supplies by MyArtscape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X3O70B2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i6n6BbX0RAZ7D

My point is you'll only need a gram of black for this Venom project. That other bottle would last you fixes on 1,000 figures.

When working with acrylic paint, you can thin it with either water or acrylic medium. This will help the paint flow better and avoid the brush strokes. In addition, you can keep some of the cost down by using craft acrylics such as these.

I've used those on 3 different mural projects - each one featuring a different art style.

Black 2.0 is not "sick as hell" at all. It's just matte black paint. Don't make my mistake and buy into the manufactured social media hype. I had a use in mind for it (blackening the inside of a telescope tube) and it did worse than the factory coating when I did a test splotch. I also recommend looking at the 2.9 out of 5 star Amazon reviews with more pictures if one test isn't enough.

https://i.imgur.com/OW2yOIp.jpg

[Neighborhood of $28] (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-2-0-mattest-flattest-material/dp/B0758GKKGZ). Considering that's over 6oz, it's pretty reasonable compared to, say, GW paints.

Thanks! It’s this stuff: Glow in The Dark Paint - Premium Artist's Acrylic - 1 Ounce (Neutral Green) - 5+ Colors Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHWG82Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_epgzDbFKSVRSS

Thank you! It's out of this set and it's called Watermelon!

At the stage of cutting out plywood circles for my standings board.

What did you do about paint? Going to copy this video but there are so many colors that I wasn't sure if an acrylic paint kit like this work

I'm assuming something like this specifically made UV resin coloring would work, but I haven't tried it myself.

Has anyone tried mica powder to dye the resin?

Thanks!

Overall, it took three of these: http://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Tech-EnviroTex-Pour-On-Finish/dp/B001E1TQM2/ref=pd_sim_hg_3

I think what helped us the most was mixing it with a power drill, doing it in three thin layers, forcing out the bubbles with a heat gun, and letting each layer dry over the course of a week or so before adding the next.

Black 2.0 is on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ

I did one of these and I put modge podge on the outside of the glass when I was done. I would NOT do that on the inside of the glass.

Craft stores, or amazon sell porcelain pens that do exactly what you want them too!

I used this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1TQM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
its recommended for 16 sq ft but my table is 9 sq ft. and it covered 1/16" to 1/8" thick

Don't let your dreams be dreams. About $20 on Amazon.

It's apparently not as black.

https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/product-reviews/B0758GKKGZ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

It should be noted that Semple also released his own version called “Vantablack 2.0” not quite as black but still very very black.

https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ

You make me wonder... Has anyone put Black 2.0 on terrain yet?

doot

With this:

https://www.amazon.de/leuchtende-hellgr%C3%BCn-ungiftig-Wasserbasis-SpaceBeams/dp/B018GEJ3LI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486132022&sr=8-6&keywords=leuchtfarbe


It glows longer if a thick cover is applied.

Now add this for the full noctis fashion experience

If you're wanting to do it go with https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ

Here's something very similar.

BLACK 2.0 - The world’s mattest, flattest, black art material by Stuart Semple

I have a set of Pelikan paints that has spectacular Gold and Silver paints, I have no idea whether these are common colors, but after avoiding them for years and finally rediscovering how much they add to a painting, I totally recommend them!

http://www.amazon.com/Pelikan-Color-Opaque-Watercolor-Set/dp/B00170ZSLS

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-2-0-mattest-flattest-material/dp/B0758GKKGZ

$19 for a bottle on Amazon. It's dark, but it's no Vantablack.

Shit isn't rated that well though https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527617129&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK+2.0

Almost everybody is saying it's not drying all that black. The pictures show clearly visible edges. Doesn't look great.