Reddit mentions: The best automatic irrigation controllers

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The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
  Set-up Recommendations
  
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
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i think the other user is making a big deal about things that aren't actually red flags in and of themselves. but since i've been tagged, and you said you have humidity issues, i'll post my copypasta.

the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

If you haven't purchased anything yet, I would recommend looking into either a tub or a pvc enclosure. Glass tanks can work, but they take a lot of modifications in order to get them to optimal humidity and temperatures for ball pythons. The 42qt Iris Weathertight tub is highly recommended as a good first enclosure for a ball python before upgrading to an Animal Plastics or Boaphile PVC enclosure. This is a good tutorial on making a tub enclosure. I have the Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python. A glass tank doesn't hold heat, and a screen top can let humidity escape.

You're gonna need an under tank heater - this is not really a place to be going cheap - you're gonna want to invest in an ultratherm heat pad or flexwatt heat tape. I've got my BP on the Flexwatt that was an add on item when getting my Animal Plastics T8. The stick on pads you see at pet stores, such a Zilla and ZooMed, can short out rather quickly and you cannot really re-use them easily. My rainboa boa has the ultratherm under tank heater which I ordered from Reptile Basics.

You might also want to look into radiant heat panels if going the PVC route - this helps keep ambient air temperatures where they need to be (over 75F) or a ceramic heat emitter. Stay away from anything that gives off visible light, even red light, as bp's can see it and if left on at night it can mess up their sleep/wake cycle.

Any heating element also needs a thermostat. You place the probe on the mat, between it and the surface you are attaching it to, and plug the heating element into the thermostat and then set the appropriate temperatures. Failure to do so might result in a badly burned ball python. Even the good heating elements can get too hot. I'd look into InkBird / JumpStart as brands for cheap thermostats that a lot of people seem to like. They do make a loud clicking sound when they turn on. If you can, I'd highly suggest shelling out for a Spyder Robotics Herpstat. I've got the Herpstat 2 and it's really phenomenal.

You will also need thermometers and hygrometers. Stay away from the analogue stick on ones - they are inaccurate and become unstuck from the wall but still sticky enough to stick to your BP, and possible remove your BP's skin. I like this indoor / outdoor one from Acurite - I've got the "outdoor" probe affixed to the warm side via hot glue and the unit itself on the cool side, so I can get humidity / cool side / warm side temps all in one glance. You'll also want an IR temp gun to spot check occassionally.

Hides you want something enclosed on all sides, with a small ofset opening. I really like these ones from Reptile Basics (which can also sometimes be found on Amazon). They are perfect for snakes. BP's like to feel enclosed on all sides so a predator cannot ambush them from behind, this is why half logs are no good: they don't provide that security. You can absolutely incorporate them into your set up as cute decor, but they are insufficient as hides. You're gonna want at least one hide on the cool end and one on the warm. I have about 5 total hides in my BP's enclosure, spread out along the temperature gradient.

For substrate you can go simple with paper towels, or fancy with coconut husk or reptibark. I'd suggest staying away from aspen, as it molds really quickly. BP's need at least 60% humidity, and something like coconut husk holds that better without quickly molding. You're gonna wanna make sure that when you are measuring warm side temperatures, that you are measuring the surface of the enclosure, not the top of your substrate. Mine will burrow down and move all of the substrate out of the hide, so I make sure that the warmest part she can get to is never higher than 90F.

Humidity needs to be over 60%, I accomplish this in my PVC enclosure by just keeping a water dish in it, one that is large enough for her to fit in and soak if she wants to. I change it out about every three days (or more often if she decides to poop in it). I don't use anything like ReptiSafe, if I can drink the tap water, so can my animals.

I put leaves and fake vines (plastic, no metal wire) in her enclosure, too. They like to feel invisible and hidden, and these leaves and vines give her some of that while also providing a more natural aesthetic.

Did you watch the discussion video?

The wax in the measuring cup was barely liquid, it was quite manageable. I do agree that it would be nicer to have a melt pot and ladle the wax out from there. I've been eyeing this and this.

Yeah, wax does make a mess. I usually have a set of sheets set aside for wax play. I have been impressed with the beeswax as it's more solid when it dries and It was easy to clean up.

Soy wax is the absolute easiest as it washes out of most things.

Smart Thermostat: I use the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat (as my smart home is "mostly" Z-Wave). I considered Ecobee (I hate Nest), but went with this as I don't really need a "learning" thermostat...do this temperature when I am home, do that one when I am not home.

Sprinkler control: Rachio (Amazon Link) - best sprinkler controller I have ever had...depending on where you live, you might even get a rebate on your water due to the water savings this has.

Smart Door Lock: Kwikset (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave as I use Z-Wave. A cool thing about this lock is that you can re-key it yourself.

Temperature Sensor: SmartThings Motion Sensor (Amazon Link) - it reports temperature, and it's ZigBee

Leak Sensor: Samsung SmartThings Leak Sensor (Amazon Link) - it's ZigBee, but I have built out a smaller ZigBee network too.

Garage Door Opener: GoControl (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave.

​

Multi-Purpose Sensor: SmartThings (Amazon Link) - Open/Close, Temperature, Vibration: I have one of these on each my closet doors (when I open the door, the closet light turns on...when I close the door the light turns off). I also have one on my Gun Safe (so I get notified if my gun safe door is open...also get vibration notifications if it's being tampered with)

The temperature/motion sensor is a nice combination. For example, I have one of these outside on my lanai. When it detects motion, it turns the fans on...but only if the temperature is over 74 F). I have a few of these inside that turn on small table lamps at night when motion is detected (versus large/bright lights) because the night is dark, and full of terrors.

​

Don't know if you have a pool, but I use iAqualink as my pool controller. It has it's own app, and now integrates with Alexa (doesn't integrate with SmartThings yet). But it's nice being able to turn on the spa and spa heater while out for dinner, and having it be up to temperature by the time you get home.

​

Oh - and check out Sonos for whole house audio. I SOOOOOOOOO love my Sonos speakers.

Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.

A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.

I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.

Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.

Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer

As I'm sure you already know, Plant growth and health is limited by 3 factors on a sliding scale. Light, nutrients, and co2. If any of them are not present it inhibits the plant's ability to uptake the other two. I struggled for a very long time in my 20 gallon until I CONSISTENTLY provided all 3.

• At first it was the lighting. I couldn't get algae under control so I cut my light schedule then slowly tried to ramp it back up. It fucked up everything in my tank and black beard algae went ham on everything. The final solution I came to and the one that has been working excellently now is a schedule of - On from 7am-1pm, off til 5pm, On from 5pm to 9pm. The "siesta" in the middle allows for a build-up of CO2 (Walstad Method) and also severely inhibits bad algae growth (I need some algae as I have ottos, snails, and amano shrimp). First, I would suggest my lighting schedule and see how it works for you. If you aren't using timers they are absolutely essential to healthy plant growth. (Keep in mind we are using the exact same light, Planted+).
  
  
• Nutrients...I can't stress enough how important consistent, long-term fertilization is. I have some low-grow repens in my tank. When I first planted them they barely did anything. Once i dialed in my CO2 injection, and was consistently EI dosing for a few weeks they absolutely exploded. Something then happened in my family and I neglected the fertilization schedule for just about 1 week...and eeeeevery, single, part of it completely died off and melted away aside from the central stem. Instead of pulling them, I figured, "what the hell" and just started fertilizing again and within 3 weeks they were absolutely gorgeous and taking over my tank again. If you get a 1lb bag each of Potassium Nitrate, Monosodium Phosphate, and a Trace product called CSM+B, they will run about $30.00 total and last you for YEARS. Dosing is beyond easy as long as you have a scale ($8 on Amazon). Here is the calculator I use: http://www.aquariumcalculators.com/aquarium-plant-food/estimative-index/
  
  
• Seeing that you are in Alaska it seems like CO2 is going to be the most difficult aspect to integrate into your system. If you have access to a sporting goods store that refills CO2 canisters for Paintball then you can do what I am doing. All you would need (These are literally the items I bought from Amazon):
  
  
  • CO2 canister: link
    
    
  • Adapter to run canister to a silinoid regulator: link
    
    
  • Silinoid regulator so you can turn the co2 on and off with your light timer: link
    
    
  • We havent talked about filters but if you happen to be running a canister filter you can inject the CO2 inline with a reactor like this on your outflow: link
    
    
  • And in case you aren't running a canister a simple diffuser like this will do jut fine: link
    
    The startup cost is a bit, but once you are up and running it only costs ~$4.00 to refill a 24oz. Canister and one canister lasts me a month and half easy.
    
    If you don't have access to co2 refills then a DIY setup would be the only option and I have absolutely no experience with those unfortunately. One other option, while more expensive, are the fluval injection systems: link
    
    

1. Make sure you fertilize consistently. I highly recommend EI dosing.
   
   
2. Try my lighting schedule
   
   
3. Figure out a way to introduce co2 to your tank.

looks good. if your interested in exploring this type of cooking more but don't want to spring for an anova or other sousvide cooker. use the crockpot method. more precise. and can do longer cooks without losing heat.

basically you hook this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5097413/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12722699865548230849&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017523&hvtargid=pla-326308171578

inline with your crockpot. then put the temp probe in the water. bring water up to temp with high once its at temp though switch it to low or warm, otherwise the heater element gets too much momentum during heat cycles and overshoots the temperature. this is what I use currently. i've done 48hr chuck roasts in it and works awesome.

You can use either an overhead heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (they put off heat and no light) or an under tank source like an undertank heat pad. Any kind of source needs to be on a thermostat (such as this one) so it doesn't get too hot. IIRC, cali kings need a hotspot of around 85F.

It does sound like he's trying to shed. You may need to bring the humidity up a bit for him. Misting a couple of times a day with a hand mister might help him out (distilled or reverse osmosis water will prevent water spots on glass). Another option is to make a humid hide. Some kind of container that is completely sealed except for one entrance, with some damp sphagnum moss inside.
You can also provide him a deep water dish...big enough for him to lay in. My Florida kingsnake likes to lay in his water dish from time to time, but they like a bit more humidity in general compared to calis.

Fermentation temp will be higher than ambient, so 65-72 ambient could be pushing you out of optimal for some yeasts, though you could be fine.

I bought a chest freezer on sale and an inkbird temp controller and this works well for me and would fit in your budget. Even more so if you’re willing to find a Craigslist freezer. My (7 cu ft?) freezer can squeeze in two PET carboys if needed, though I currently just do 5 gal batches.

Can I ask why you would do this vs using a solar powered irrigation switch/timer off the shelf? It would be cheaper, use less power (100% solar powered), and also includes things like integration with rain sensors to automatically delay after a customizable amount of rainfall. Plus its natively waterproof which the pi is not. By the time you built in equivalent functionality and features, you'd most likely be more expensive.

DIG 100 timer (example, this is single zone, multizone equivalents exist):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q53N2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_73GiDbFCJN6WK

Rain bird rain sensor:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MICVDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5GiDbEEM8ZST

Not trying to tell you not to do it, but there are ready to go solutions available off the shelf which will use zero power and are purpose built and have gone through QA to do this. If this is a learning project/exercise, by all means.

Next time use something like THIS It saved my plants when I was away for 1 week.

Very cool you're using Amazon Smile mate.

There are a couple of alternatives, a couple of folk I know are using the one you linked.

I bought this one but it broke on fairly quick. So I used the manifold and set up my own auto feed system using a smartplug and a water pump. I used the manifold off the green thing though, this is my set up.

A lot of people use BluMats very successfully (both the originals and the knock-offs). Maybe those could be your way forward?

I was using a Blumfeld battery power timer and pump (amazon) to water. This pump is sitting on the edge of a 5g bucket outside the tent. The bucket has the same nutrient mixture as what is in the res for each plant. It was set to water every 7 hours for 25 second run time. This provided about 100-150ml of water to the plants each time it ran.

The Strawberry Nuggets took 7 days for roots to reach the res, Cookies took 8. I turned off the auto-water pump on day 9. Today is day 11 and they are happy girls.

You need this device and a heater. It can be used to cool also. It has 2 outlets for each. Set it and forget it. Other redditors told me about it and it's a blessing. Inkbird

Ouch... Well that's certainly an option but...

https://www.amazon.com/Hunter-Sprinkler-PGV101G-1-Inch-Control/dp/B00FYRJYVA/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=irrigation+valve&qid=1550941003&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Incredibly satisfying to replace the old sprinkler face plate with the one that connects to WiFi and let’s you control everything on your phone...

Rain-Bird ESP-ME Upgrade Panel WiFi Enabled Irrigation WiFi Zone Controller Timer Box and Link Lnk WiFi Mobile Wireless Smartphone Upgrade Module Sprinkler System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8W2W8B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KBpnDbWY8YHDA

Yep. 9 months of the year, anyway. I hook one of these to the exhaust on each tent. Set it to kick on at 76, off at 73.

In the Summer, they run all the time during lights on (holding at ~80 degrees). Fall and Spring they run about half the time. I'm in a cold climate, so in my winters I have to make some adjustments (62 degree ambient).

During the cold months, I leave the thermostat in place, but run a small duct fan before the exhaust, which runs 24/7. It's enough to keep humidity from building up too much, which it would normally. Especially during the dark cycle. . .also, I run COBs and Strip fixtures, which generate very little heat, so Jan/Feb my tents might not hit 76 degrees, at all. Then I dial down, and grow everything between 62 degrees (dark) and 72 degrees (light).

TBH, I've only done one winter cycle with the COB/Strip LEDs, but the plants grown in the cold were better, quality-wise, then the summer plants. Although a bit less yield. . .all that is anecdotal, of course.

Oh, also, if you aren't already, consider how to exhaust back into your room as the cold weather comes. It'll keep humidity up, and you won't be exhausting warm air, only to pay to warm that air again.

Low 30's would be freezing temperatures and overkill IMO. Low 40's is plenty cold for beer. I would recommend not wasting a shitload of money on a fridge and just get a reasonably priced one and then hook it up to a temerature controller like this. This will allow you to hold consistent temperatures +/- 2-4 degrees F.

Check out this controller.

[Rachio](Rachio 3 WiFi Smart Lawn Sprinkler Controller, Works with Alexa, 8-Zone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ864Y9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3QDIBb1EN0DSY)

Yes. This is the controller I have I got the 4 zone but they have an 8 and a 12. This is the rain sensor I have


It works great. Adjusts watering depending on the forecast (which I love) and the rain sensor acts as a hard stop when the weather people are wrong.


And when one of my valves failed Orbit sent me another no questions asked, their support people are excellent to deal with.

Inkbird thermostat, I figured it would be good enough to use temporarily. I have my other snake on a Herpstat 2 and I intend to use it for the BP too, once she's done with quarantine.

I use this temp gun to check the temps under the hide, at least once a day.

It is time you need to control, not how many gallons of water come out of the sprinkler heads. Your greenery will dictate how many gallons per week you need to keep everything looking good. Investing in a system that can adjust to your weather will pay off after a few seasons:

https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-8-Zone/dp/B07CZ864Y9

It looks like a sprinkler control adaptor from this angle, similar to

www.amazon.com/Irritrol-2623DPR-75-Electric-Valve-Adapter/dp/B0008D4ZBE

Does its bottom have plumbing fittings?

Solenoid valves something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-CP100-Automatic-Sprinkler/dp/B00002N8NN

I replaced an old controller so I already had all the valves, piping and sprinkler heads.

good effort, but don't get that one, get this one. it's cheaper, by the same company, and the probe is designed for aquariums:


https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Inkbird+Digital+Temperature+Controller+Thermostat&qid=1554760604&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3-catcorr

Cool, like this?

Yeah, I suppose that would work. All you would need then is just a single stage temp controller such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5149652

This setup has a solenoid that can be connected to a timer, here are the links.


Tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XKFQCM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KVG6PI8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Adapter for tank to reg: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Bubble counter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N2M2B6E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Liquor! Music! TV!

How is everyone tonight?

Edit: I didn't read the directions!

Wish

Haven't grown my koji yet because I'm on vacation, but here's what I purchased and it all works:

​

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ND7N8L/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Perforated pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E95D6H0/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VZ6Y4O/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FKG4CC/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Heating pad (I fold it in half): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Styrofoam container: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NO6F8E/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would offer to water them but I'm a total stranger and I just moved the only car I had in Cincinnati to Granby Colorado, I won't have a ride for a week or two. I'd just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Yardeen-Automatic-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Controller/dp/B01J9FXCS8

If you don't have too many you can use an automatic pump. https://www.amazon.com/Yardeen-Automatic-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Controller/dp/B01J9FXCS8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=automatic+plant+water+pump&qid=1555690261&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You need a thermostat. Place the probe between the map and the bottom of the tank. All below the tank. Inexpensive thermostats:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/

I am using one of these personally with a pair of Eheim heaters:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

This is a very common mistake, but it can have very deadly consequences if not changed.

Get a [thermostat](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5396573/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14493505548356397280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-326308171578 (I linked the one I have, it's not too expensive and it works great) as soon as possible, otherwise you risk burning your snake very badly, and the vet bills caused by that would be much more expensive than the thermostat, not to mention the emotional distress.